I need to do some welding in 0.8mm (1/32) steel sheets. All I

>>1144969
why not revet

>>1144970

I don't really think riveting a car's body is a good idea.

>>1144969
what kind of weld are you trying to do nigger? if it's a butt joint you can forget it at 50A, i would say fillet or plug weld but you if you can't get some aluminum behind there that's not going to work out either.

if the seem don't have to be sealed or it can be sealed later with something else then do a 1/2" overlap and have a person either side with brass electrodes and spot weld it with AC. no other way besides foot pedal TIG afaik.

>>1144986
>if it's a butt joint you can forget it at 50A

Well shit. Point here is seal a body crack in the B pillar, with no access behind it. I did some test runs on similar steel sheets, and the timeframe for a good pool is way too narrow: on seemingly similar arcs, even moving relatively quickly, I was either not getting good penetration or straight blowing through, and with the metal being so thin I was having lots of trouble trying to fill it back without blowing the crater even more.

>>1145001
ye it's a real cunt to weld thin material, another way would be brazing with silicon bronze but that has fuck all structural strength since you don't melt the host metal. can you take a pic of the area of the B pillar you're trying to fix? if it's a floor corner it kinda needs to be done properly with TIG to stand up in a crash, if it's the roof you would be better off cutting out the T from a wreck and replacing it and welding tubing or flat bar into it with an ass load of plug welds, brazing the roof panel for a nice finish just remember to radius the corners to prevent it from tearing under load.

File: tmp_9582-Photo-0838-948639053.jpg (15KB, 480x360px) Image search: [Google]

15KB, 480x360px

>>1145005

Not at home right now, but I have a pic of the same issue on another car, cracks right at the beltline, it's a common fault on these models. The latest ones out of the production line had a reinforcement plate inside the pillar, but this is an earlier one. My plan is to weld the crack, grind, and add a 2mm thick plate on top, hoping that helps the area cope with the body flex. Since it's behind the door, it's not noticeable with it closed.

>>1145010

*forgot to say drill both ends of the crack beforehand, to prevent it from spreading further.

>>1145001
even with a mig you'll have to stitch weld to keep the puddle size and panel distortion under control.

>>1144969
>an oldish stick unit that I can't for the life of me drop below ~50A.

fix the crank/magnetic shunt going into the transformer

>>1144969
Tig, DCEP polarity for thin metals , grind it out before welding over it and grinding it down.

>>1144969
If the crack isn't too big you could try soldering.

If the original base metal failed in that spot, then any repair will likely fail too, sooner or later. Unless some kind of reinforcement is added, which from the pic seems unlikely, I don't think it will really matter what process you use.

dude use TIG

>>1144969
It's gonna be a major pain in the ass even with the tiniest rods or mig.
If you can get or rent a TIG welder that would be a breeze, that's the thickness we welded when I had this internship at this stainless steel shop for my welding degree and I didn't have issues when the fitting was tight.

>>1144969
Acquire 3.2mm 6013 electrode.
Set welder to 100 or so amps.
Spot tack parent metal a way back from the fracture, take you time, dotting metal here and there until fracture is surrounded.
Use your new heatsink to slowly close in on the crack, take care to not blow a huge hole right away.
>Make a cup of tea
Repeat process until fracture/hole has been sealed.
Grind/polish to taste.

>>1146653
This.

Place a few spotwelds a cm or two away from the crack.
Then continue putting more spotwelds overlapping each other until you circle and close in around the crack.
When you need to weld the crack itself, overlap on the welds on the edge of the crack to avoid burning through.


There are heat sink puttys you can use to absorb heat.
With a putty, you can use an oxy acetalyne torch to braze the crack.
But it will still come back.

Also, I told you already last time.
You need to cut out the area on the pillar that surrounds the crack, then weld a reinforcement bar behind it.
Then reweld the front piece back on.