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Hello, /diy/. I don't come here much, but I need some assistance

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Hello, /diy/. I don't come here much, but I need some assistance with ideas for insulation in a shed as I'd like to use it as a workshop and would spend a good amount of time inside.

The shed has a good roof and siding on the outside, but the inside is barren, just walls and studs. I already plan on sealing every crack and crevice I can find, but I'd like to insulate it a little in the cheapest possible non-toxic way. I won't own the property, so I'd rather not sink a bunch of money into the project and I don't have a lot of tools to put towards the project right now, so avoiding having to cut drywall or wood to cover the insulation would be nice. Doesn't need to be high-quality insulation, just a little something extra to help keep it a reasonable temperature when using a heater or small ac unit.

TL;DR: Need to insulate a shed on a low budget. Needs to be simple, non-toxic, cheap, and not require it to be covered. Doesn't need to be high quality or pretty.
>>
What are you willing to spend and how many square feet is the shed?
>>
>>1136327
I don't have a budget limit per se, but I'd prefer to stay under $100-200. The cheaper the better. As far as size, I haven't measured it, but I'd guesstimate around 50 sq ft.
>>
>>1136330
>50 sq ft.
So, 7ft by 8ft or something like that? 8-foot walls (standard house size) or shorter? Standard stud distance (16 in.) or longer? If standard sizes I would just get some normal fiberglass insulation, stuff it between the studs and call it good. No need for drywall or anything.
>>
>>1136309
bog standard insulation bats or foam board.
I did my old shed with that then covered the walls with cheap paneling from a liquidator store. (yard that sells excess or slightly damaged products for cheap)
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>>1136339
Standard 8 foot walls I believe, not 100% certain. Not sure about stud distance either. I plan on measuring everything in the next couple days.

>>1136346
Using fiberglass, do I need to cover it up or anything? It's not just going to be used as storage, I'd like to use it as a workshop as well and would spend a pretty decent amount of time inside. With covering it, I'm not necessarily worried about the cost, but more about being able to cut everything to size. Tool set is pretty limited right now.
>>
Cutting drywall to size doesn't need amazing tools. Straight cuts with an knife, an off brand corded oscillating tool or jigsaw for more complicated cuts won't cost much either.

Hard to beat fiberglass insulation + drywall.

Two layers of double sided metallized bubble wrap like in your picture kinda works if you put the bubble wrap at the centre of the stud to make two air spaces. In summer it will actually beat R-13 fiberglass, but in winter you'd probably have half the R-value on average.

http://www.rimainternational.org/index.php/technical/library/residential-commercial/
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>>1136362
I honestly didn't even think about that. I'll probably end up going with bats and drywall.

Thanks everyone.
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>>1136347

>Using fiberglass, do I need to cover it up or anything?

I wouldn't leave any of the fibres exposed, it's fucking nasty shit. Hell, I'd use a disposable coverall, gloves, a dustmask and goggles to put it in ... but I'm a pussy.

You could get foil faced fibre glass insulation and throw a couple rolls of good "duct" tape at the edges (good so it sticks to the wood, the cheaper stuff won't). No exposed fibres that way.
>>
>>1136347
You could cover it with heavy plastic and a staple gun.
Plastic avalable in rolls of different widths and thicknesses at any large hardware store
>>
>>1136330
Shit nigga 50sq ft? I'd just insulate it all with some thick ass R-board. It's a little expensive but it wouldn't be too bad in a tiny room like that, and that would be super great insulation.
>>
>>1136309
Great Stuff PRO, gaps and cracks. Buy the gun and the gun cleaner. Do a layer between studs then move onto the next gap. Only do one layer at a time. Mist a little water before you spray. If you get around the shed before 5-8 minutes is up, wait a bit to be sure its done expanding. Wait until the wood is 60 degrees or warmer.

The PRO gaps and cracks is like the noob "big gaps", which is basically just the regular shit with more coverage. You'll get several cubic feet out of each pro gaps can.

I don't fuck around with fiberglass insulation anymore unless I have to for basement moisture concerns. Blown cellulose or poly everywhere now. It's not much more expensive, and if you factor in the coveralls, respirator cartridges, and hassle, it's an even smaller gap.

If your budget is $100-200 you'll have plenty left over. Get the gun, gun cleaner, and 4 cans of pro gaps and cracks, and you're good to go.
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>>1136368
Bats have an extra fold of paper. Place it between the studs, unfold the paper out over the stud and staple. Holds it in place and keeps fibers covered.

I'm pretty sure the pros use duct tape and Saran Wrap instead, though.
Thread posts: 13
Thread images: 1


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