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1. What are the first three planes a n00b should get? 2. New

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1. What are the first three planes a n00b should get?
2. New or used?
3. If used, how do you find a good one? What are some things to watch out for on a plane?
4. If new, are the pricier planes worth the money (Lie Nielson, Clifton, Veritas, etc)?
5. If used, what do you do to bring the plane back to working order (besides sharpening the blade)?

Thanks,
t. n00b
>>
Stanley #1
>>
>>1135542
1.for what purpose?

If you have the time and tools to invest in fixing one by used if you don't buy new.

Old.planes just buy old Stanley's or preferably old Stanley Bedrocks

Pricey is worth it for longevity and for the occasional fine tuning to deal with seriously hard or curly timbers.

First three planes should be a 4 or 4.5 smoother, a block plane, a 5 5.5 jack.

That will get you through most stuff if you're breaking down and truing lumber by hand you should look at a 7 instead of the 5.
>>
>>1135542
Power planer. And a number 7..

Power planer takes some tuning and a big metal file to get to a point where its worth dick.

If you NEEDED a third. Either a rabate plane, or a chisel plane.

It really depends on what your doing. But the power planer is my best friend...

I get timbers from tree services. Cut them up with a way too small of a chainsaw, free hand into slabs. If I need them smaller, skill saw, if i need them straighter. Table saw. And I finish them off finally with the power planer, set too where its just barely taking off fibers.
>>
On the topic of getting a new or used plane in to working shape (this applies to both);

Sharpen blade of course. Watch Paul Sellers video on plane sharpening. A two sided course/fine combination whetstone is sufficient. You don't strictly need three stones plus a leather strop. No jigs or guides necessary. Do round off the corners of the blade a bit as sharp corners tend to snag in inconvenient ways.

For old planes there may be rust or years of gunk or whatever on the bottom. For cheaper new planes the bottom may not be precisely flat. In either case, get two grits of wet/dry sandpaper and a scrap sheet of glass. Wet the paper, place on glass sheet, lap the bottom surface as needed to get it smooth and true.

That's pretty much it.
>>
>>1135720
This. And a lot depends on your purpose OP. Sellers is very slow to recommend a #7, I like one for long truing cuts. That being said, a #4 will do nearly anything you need a plane to do.

>>1135548
I wonder if you know how funny this actually is. I kekked.
>>
>>1135720
well the 2 sided stone works well, but the real reason you need 3 stones is to rub them against each other to keep them flat.

Also, you don't need to flatten the whole bottom, draw on it with a sharpie. Move up a grit when you have a 3 clean spots, one at the front, one at the back, one in the middle. you can put it in a vice and smack it with a hammer if it's really curved, bend it back, then flatten, otherwise it may end up too thin and bend at the drop of a hat.
>>
>>1135542
Seriously. Find a WWII era Stanley 4-1/2 for your first smoother. Get a Hock iron for it. You will then know how a good, heavy smoother is supposed to work. Next get a jointer. Stanley 6 or 7. 5 is too small, 8 is too big unless you are built like a linebacker. Then a good adjustable mouth block plane. Finally, a iron rabbet like a Stanley 78. They are making those again so you can get a brand new one although old ones are pretty cheap. Just make sure it has all the fences and stops.
>>
No. 4 is too short for jointing.
No. 6+ too long for general purposes
No. 5 can do it all.

No. 60 1/2 low-angle bevel down block plane is the best for end grain work/chamfering/quick one-handed trimming

Also, a used wooden rabbet plane for cleaning tenons and other hard to reach areas.
>>
>>1135880
>real reason you need 3 stones is to rub them against each other to keep them flat.

Eh? Just use sandpaper for that.
>>
>>1135542
Through an inconvenient series of events, I've ended up with 3 different 4s. Don't recommend un less you have multiple projects going on througout the house
>>
>>1135921
any suggestions where to look? They're awfully expensive on ebay
>>
>>1136476
Estate sales, garage sales, flea markets, local auctions. Stanley planes are collectible. The only time you will get one cheap is when someone doesn't know what they are selling. But, since they made millions of them, they are still easy to find cheaply. I have a dozen or so planes and I've never spent more than $15 on any of them. Some I've gotten for as little as 50 cents (a Stanley block plane). Often times they are so cheap I buy them just in case I might need a part off one. So day I will get organized and flip them on eBay or something.
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>>1136483
Plus garage sale finds are easily repairable. As long as the base is not chipped or cracked especially the mouth. Totes and knobs are almost always cracked, replacements easy to find. Irons are usually ground to shit, you ain't keeping it anyway. Don't worry about rust, you ain't collecting, you're building a user.
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File: IMG_0193.jpg (1MB, 2592x1936px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1136577
Here's pictures of what I suggested to you:
Stanley 60 low angle adjustable mouth block
Stanley 4-1/2 heavy smoother with Hock iron
Stanley 7 jack with Hock iron
Record 778 or Stanley 78. I added an ebony aux fence.
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File: IMG_0194.jpg (1MB, 2592x1936px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1136592
Better pic
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File: IMG_0197.jpg (1MB, 2592x1936px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1136595
These would be a great start into manual woodworking. Of course you can never have enough planes...
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>>1136577
That and rust flies off with many rust removal options.

++++ on yard sales because no one uses hand tools much anymore except craftsmen so you can pig out cheap. I even have an old hand crank grinder for rough work in a power outage/SHTF.

Not really a prepper but good hand tools are a joy to use and surprisingly efficient. They teach you the tactile experience of a job.
>>
>>1135542
a realy small one for breakin edges/fine work, you could even use a block plane and a no4 is all you need imo

and bigger ones if you need to straighten out boards.
>>
>>1136598
One more thing. Stanley planes are sometimes found with hang holes drilled in the heel. Collectors shun these but it doesn't hurt the function at all. Some good buys there.
>>
>>1135921
>Find

Yeah, just find one OP. They're all hiding in attics.
>>
>>1136716
"Find" implies looking not waiting for he to drop into your lap like a gift from uncle Bernie.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-Bailey-No-4-1-2-Smoothing-or-Bench-Plane-WWII-Heavy-Casting-/262864231006?hash=item3d33edda5e:g:wEAAAOSw4A5YrHQn
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File: DSC05627.jpg (3MB, 2816x2112px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1135542
Bench plane #3 or #4; a block plane and a flat spoke shave.Spend extra on getting a GOOD one with a thick blade like a Veritas, a Lie Nielsen
>>
>>1136592
Seconded on adding Hock or Lee Valley blades.

They turn a ho hum Record or Stanley plane into a serious one
Thread posts: 24
Thread images: 5


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