Is this electric motor would be proper to use for electric motorcycle

>>1134835
Kinda? Pic related putts it a little under 3,000 watts brushed. It wont be very efficient, but if you are going for a bidget build and dont need much range i'd use 4 deep cycle (i think blue top) optimas or if u want a speed boost at the cost of longevity and distance go yellow top.

Problem is lead is inefficient and heavy. And 12v as apposed to 6v is worse but using 8 trojen t-105 would make that bike weigh a ton. I'd guess if you are going no more than 20 miles on the reg then 4 yellow tops would under power it at 24v x 2 banks and u should get descent speed. Sorry. It depends a lot on every other aspect of your build.

For reference my fat ass built a bargain steel frame mountain bike with 4 12ah sla's and my 289 pound body. I could average 25 mph for severa miles with no pedling. It was 48v 1,000 watt. You have 3,000 watt at that voltage but also more weight.

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>>1134860

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>>1134860
Thank you for a reply, I would be more focused on torque and top speed rather than range. What do you think about this one? Not sure how much it weighs but surely its heavier than other one

>>1134835

You'll need a forklifter in tow to carry the batteries.

>>1134835

It'll work, though it'll definitely be on the weak side. My electric bike is 1200W at peak and has a bit of pep to show for it (would have a lot more if it wasn't a hub motor), but it also weighs under 300lbs with me on it.

>>1134863

>14kW

NOW we're talkin'.

>torque and top speed rather than range

Torque you get in spades, just because it's electric. What kind of motor is this, actually? I don't think it's parallel-wound, since there's no rating for the field coils, and I doubt it's AC, since there's no phasing information on it. Gotta be either series-wound or permanent magnet. If it's series, you may have to limit it quite a bit at low speed. It may actually start breaking things otherwise. And don't try and spin it up without a load; due to technical reasons, series-wound motors don't have a hard limit for top no-load speed and it would be easy to ruin it that way.

Anyway, I wouldn't recommend lead acid batteries. Not unless you can get them for free or close to it. There are just too many drawbacks (including higher long-term costs) to justify the initial savings over lithium.

Top speed will be determined entirely on your aerodynamic profile and actual power output. So, obviously, making the thing as aerodynamic as possible and using the beefiest motor/batteries you can will improve performance there. That being said, "gotta go fast" is where things start getting technical (can the wheels, frame, brakes, etc. handle it?) and dangerous (the "squared" term in e=mv^2 is a bitch). Try not to die. Or, at least, try not to take anyone else with you.


As an aside, not sure what's up with those nameplate ratings. The actual wattage you get from multiplying volts and amps doesn't even come close to the power rating. I'd expect it to either match or the rated power to be a little less than what V*A would indicate.

>>1134898

You seem to be advanced in electronic stuff, could you give me your email that I could consult with you about my project. That would be nice because im new to electronic stuff but it's very intresting for me.

>>1134863
Probably about twice as much eh? Damn son. I'd kill for some of these. I'd go with optima yellow rops and the top motor unless you are trying to enter a tractor pull.

That's over 10,000 watts. You'd need a serious amount of batteries and a bigass controller. The low voltage may not be much of a problem but i'm not sure. If u can get a controller for it then it would make one hell of a golf cart motor. Those gears are shallow so i'd keep the wheelieing to a minimum

>>1134879
Kek. Sadly correct unless you are rich and have a million a123 cells

Forklift motors are a fun entry into a diy electric cars - but the wrong way to go about building an electric motorcycle.

I'd suggest building a high power mid-drive electric bike first - and then figure out why you want a motorcycle (range or legality).

And you shouldn't be doing this without lithium batteries. The sweet spot for power/price is either the $20 5ah/4s Hobbyking hardcases or buying a Nissan Leaf/Chevy Volt pack (~$1600usd for 20kw) either whole or individual modules.

An well built ebike can still do outpace traffic on surface roads, out accelerate most cars, and still do all the mundane bike stuff in parks and stuff.

For battery sizing, work backwards from your longest desired trip and figure:
ebike: 75w/mi
scooter/emoto - 150w/mi
car: 400w/mi
if driving really smoothly.

t. built lots of high power ebikes/carts/cars

>>1134927
>could you give me your email

Hell no I'm not giving that out, and on 4chan of all places. Best I can do is Discord.

>>1135853
>An well built ebike can still do outpace traffic on surface roads

...and well-budgeted. These things aren't the cheap solution to all transportation problems that they're sometimes touted to be. I've ridden my (current) ebike for the commute to work for about a year now. I got an excellent deal on some quality bare cells (which I had to build the pack out of myself), and the battery, which is fairly small, still ran me over $200 by itself. All-up, there's at least $600 represented by the bike, motor, batteries, controller, and upgraded brakes. This is actually pretty cheap for a decent bike with lithium batteries. It's not hard to break $1,000 on an ebike.

That being said...my commute, by car, runs me ~$1.20-1.50 depending on gas prices. The same commute on the bike, as measured from the wall (meaning it includes all charging inefficiencies) is slightly over $0.06. And I pay above the US national average for my power.