I'm planning on raising mealworms for entomophagy purpo

I raised them as treats for my pet chickens for a while. You'd better plan on more space than that for your fetish if you want an actual meals worth.

I used plastic tubs with holes punched in the lid for venting. Works well.

>>1124679
How much space would you recommend? I'd be fine with producing anything from 200 to 500 grams of worms per week.

>>1124681
FUUUCK. Way more than I raised. I suggest trying one test container, figuring out what produces most worms, then add containers until you reach desired output.

I ate a couple of mine. No taste, would be easy to eat in bulk.

>>1125199
Ya, I wound up deciding to start off with one similar to the one in the video. I figure if that doesn't produce as much as I want it will be easy enough to just get another one and set it up alongside the first.

>>1125200
Just get a Christmas tree bin. They're incredibly large and are about the same price as the drawers.

>>1125202
Aren't the drawers better for separating worms from pupae and beetles? I read that they'll eat each other if you don't. Or is the risk of that exaggerated?

Hello, reptile keeper here. Few things;

You won't need screens for containment. I keep my colony in regular tupperware containers. Neither worm form nor beetle form can climb smooth plastic. An inch of vertical plastic on all sides is plenty to keep them in. I don't bother with any kind of lid or screen.

You may want to look in to other species if you're trying to eat these for sustenance. Like morio worms (superworms). Those are much larger. Breeding process is the same, only you must separate the worms individually once they reach last instar in order to coax them in to changing to pupa. Superworms will stay in worm form when in the presence of other worms.

Beetles and pupa can live in the same bin. When you see pupa just pop them in the beetle bin. They will not be eaten by the beetles if the beetles are well fed (which is easy).

>>1125232
Ok, I'll look into getting superworms. How do you usually separate the worms to get them to convert to pupae? Do you just put each one in an individual tiny container once they're big enough? How long do they take to change once you do that?

Also, for the beetle bin, put in some egg crates. The beetles enjoy climbing on them and hiding inside. This seems to help their reproduction rate slightly. Happy beetle in a horny beetle.

Take beetles out of their substrate once per month and keep the old substrate in a separate container. Beetles will eat their eggs so you need to do this to allow the eggs to hatch to worms and tiny baby worms to grow. Three bins: beetle and pupae bin, egg/baby worm bin, medium/adult worm bin.

>>1125237
Dark plastic film containers work best to separate supers. It takes about a week-ish form them to change to pupa. There are a lot of online tutorials for that. Just google.

>>1125238
Will try the egg carton thing, sounds cool. I was planning on replacing the bottom of the beetle bin with screen so eggs and babies can fall through to the worm bin, though I guess it wouldn't hurt to also set aside the substrate to make sure I get the ones that don't fall.

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>>1125239
Sometimes people use screw sorting trays like pic related,. Drill air holes.

>>1125242
Aw shit those things do look really nice and tasty compared to the little ones.

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>>1124674
>Posting about eating insects on a pygmy insect eating forum

>Getting some of the most helpful responses I've seen.