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A while ago I made this thread about leds. >>1121259

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Thread replies: 16
Thread images: 1

A while ago I made this thread about leds.
>>1121259

I've decided to do some testing. And I have decided to trial a smaller scale version first.
I've found better, but more expensive leds to play with.
MO: CXB3590-0000-000N0BDB50E
A cree led, 35mm round, 3600ma max, 39v forward voltage, producing 14340LM minimum.
I've come to my senses on power delivery and will be trialing individual drivers for each LED, and 48v supply voltage.
Cooling will still be a water based system I'm pretty sure, but now include a place to mount the drivers, probably on the back side.

I'm thinking of going towards a 8 led version first, for slightly over 100,000LM of output for 1200w-ish.


I still need to figure out how to get the 48v supply from the vehicle, how to control the brightness and watts, optics, and reducing cost.

I'll try to update as stuff arrives in the mail.
>>
>>1124067
Why are you still going with 40v LEDs? Cant you find 12v ones with roughly the same output you desire?
>>
>>1124158
I can't find anything 100w+ thats 12v.
>>
Parts came and I ordered the wrong fucking thing. Ordered a constant current voltage thing from Amazon that said 8.5-48v in 0-50v out, figuring 48 in, 32 out. It's a step up only.

I wonder how it would like 600v DC...
>>
So apparently its difficult for the Chinese to make a step down constant current board capable of 48v input. So... The little CC I have can step up 12v to the 32v 100w leds, at 8.5 amps out of 10max, but not the 130w 36v ones.

So scratch the 48v supply. 24v will be the input.
Time to buy another power supply I guess.
>>
I'll have a two 100w led test rig going tomorrow I believe.

So my final plan is to have someone mill out an enclosure from aluminum, and for the water chamber, I will solder micro heatsinks inside, and then solder a lid over the chamber.

Is there a better way to do this?
>>
It's all gone wrong guys.

Tonight I hooked the cc up to a computer power supply on 12v. and set the voltage to 32v. then hooked up my fluke in amps and cranked the amperage up.
but it stopped at 1.5A...
I figured it may have been the led got up to temp already as I didnt have a heat spreader on it. I ziptied it to an old zalman cooler with a bit of thermal paste and left the fan unplugged.
and still, 1.5A.
It isnt getting voltage droop, getting bang on 12v in, 32 out at load.
I'm not in capacity limit of the CC, only 4 amps in out of 10.
only 48W??
Cranked it right up to 36V, max reccomended.
I could muster up 2.2A there, for 79W, but its still not the 8000LM I was expecting, even with a 60 degree lens.
The heatsink got hot as shit too for the 1 minute I ran it, did not expect that much heat to be honest.

Is the CC shit?
>>
>>1124067

>I've come to my senses on power delivery and will be trialing individual drivers

Then why are you talking about a 48V supply? The drivers I linked in the previous thread seem fine for this LED.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-DC-boost-converter-Constant-Current-Mobile-Power-supply-10A-250W-LED-Driver/32642489577.html

One per Cree COB.
>>
>>1124158
Whats wrong with higher voltage? Higher voltage means you don't have to use such thick wiring, and lower voltage drop.
>>
>>1125235

>The heatsink got hot as shit too for the 1 minute I ran it, did not expect that much heat to be honest.

Even LEDs turn most power to heat.
>>
>>1125235

>I could muster up 2.2A there, for 79W, but its still not the 8000LM I was expecting, even with a 60 degree lens.

What lens are you using?
>>
>>1124762
>implying anon needs to weild gods yellow sun more than 5 or 10 minutes at a time.


....are you the water cooled flashlight guy?


Cause wewlad i am building a water cooled light bar in my bumper and i need to plan some shit out for my fabricator.
>>
>>1124948
Yes!!! It is you.


Pics pics pics flood this bitch anon!

Gots to plan my trump protestor plow.

I got a 30 foot i-beam
20 foot 6 inch pipe
And a metric fuckton of other scrap.

My pipeline bro has a fucking welding truck and build excessively large bumpers for fun.

We hung a 1 ton dually bumper made from an old bridge on a bronco2 the other day.

Had to put 1ton springs on the little shit.

Honestly dangerous.

I feel like hes gonna jump on the brakes and fucking flip it.


Kek.


My car is 4500 pounds and will be about 6k empty after we build the bumpers and grill hitch on the back.
Fuck i'm excited
>>
>>1125254
That's the driver I'm currently using, that won't go past 80w...
Got another coming in tonight, hopefully I'll be able to figure out what's wrong with my testing.

>>1125258
Cheap glass generic lens

>>1125438
I'm not, but I am building a watercooled light bar.
But I'm mostly going to use mine for working/general lighting/ photography.
I don't think it will make a good weapon though, the potential is there, but at least with 100ws, they are not intense enough even at 60°

What are you doing for an enclosure/water block?
>>
Also found another potential combo for future work if I decide to invest more money in research.
The CREE unit I posted in the OP, they also make a 72v variant. I have found this driver here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J5EDL7U/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1LT9LUD664XNE

If I can safely parallel 4 LEDs, this is a very good driver. Obviously this one would require the 48v supply.
>>
Alright, I don't fucking get it.

I'm throwing 36 fucking volts at the led.
I'm getting 2.6A?!
I tested two different leds, tow different CCs. Same results

Then I threw two leds in parallel at one CC. Got it to like 4A before burning myself because no heatsink. (ghetto hold it to the pins method)

I know the CC is capable.
I know the LED at least looks brilliant at low CC. All 100 leds perfect and uniform.
I know the source and wires are fine.

Just the fucking LED won't take more current.

WTF

I'm going to grab a lux meter Sunday and see how far out of spec the led is, but I doubt it's just so damn efficient that it only needs 80w to do the 8000LM spec.
Thread posts: 16
Thread images: 1


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