Are there any good non cordless drills? I would of course like

>inb4 all hell breaks loose

Sparky here. I have to drill a lot of holes running wires, placing cans, hanging boxes, etc. I drill through all kinds of materials. Wood, concrete, metal, stucco, plaster & lath.

I've burnt up everything from Milwaukee, Makita, Hitachi, Dewalt, Bosch, and all the store brands Ryobi, Kobalt, ToolShop. I've settled on Porter Cable's hammer drill for general drilling. I can get about a year out of one before they catch fire and they go on sale for under 60 bucks regularly.

I still keep my Milwaukee triple gear reduction right angle drill in the truck for the intense work and an SDS for driving ground rods.

I'd recommend the PC for you. It's a good little hammer drill.

>>1123130
I forget, where is Stanley positioning Porter-Cable between DeWalt and Black & Decker these days?

>>1123135
I've not use a Stanley branded anything in a long time so can't speak for them.

DeWalt > PC > B&D.

The difference between the levels is narrowing every year. The DeWalts did get a bit cheaper but the PC and B&D's have really come up in quality these past few years.

In general I'd still put Bosch (less skil) > all SB&D brands.

The DeWalt corded drill with the keyless metal chuck is the best one of its sort you can buy.

>>1123159
I saw a video of one of those on fire.

>>1123130

something like this?
https://www.amazon.ca/PORTER-CABLE-Pc70Thd-2-Speed-Hammer-2-Inch/dp/B006YHM4ZC

price is right. Having a keyed chuck seems like it might be a pain but i'll survive.

>>1123106
>good
Sounds like you have two rather different jobs to do. A thrift store / garage sale corded drill should work for hobby electronics (to confirm, the right metal bit for sheet metal is a unibit, and the sheet should be center punched first). The mechanical requirements for this are low enough that most anything should work. As for drilling holes in a masonry wall, that's a job for a hammer drill. You shouldn't need a proper SDS drill, but typical corded hammer drills are larger, more powerful, and more expensive than what you'd need for electronics. And the increased mechanical complexity and vibration means that lower-end drills are likely to fail quickly. Not having looked through the details of what's available, I'd suggest a mid-tier name-brand hammer drill, though a deal on a higher-end brand would be something to look for.

>>1123175

also just saw this - https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DWD115K-8-Inch-Mid-Handle-Keyless/dp/B0014GKA86

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>>1123141
>I've not use a Stanley branded anything in a long time so can't speak for them.
Stanley owns all three of those brands, which is why I asked. For some reason, I had thought they weren't making power tools anymore. It seems they are. No one around here carries them, though.

>>1123175
This should work. Be sure to get masonry bits and anchors.

>>1123178
This is not a hammer drill.

>>1123179
Add Craftsman onto that list

>>1123182
> This is not a hammer drill.

Right, but for a general drill is it decent?

>>1123175

Not used this one, but I'd still consider this with a SDS->keyless chuck adapter.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hitachi-DH22PG-Inch-Rotary-Hammer/dp/B0010TEQ64

I expect a corded drill to at least get me a small diameter hole in concrete, yet doing it with a normal hammer drill is an exercise in frustration.

>>1123184
Sure. It's just not suitable for drilling masonry.

>>1123130 here.
>>1123175
That's the beast. I dunno what current exchange rates are but you should be able to get one for 40 to 60 USD. The key'd chuck is needed. Keyless chucks can't hold half inch bits hammering into concrete with 7 amps of power.

>>1123159
DeWalt corded drills are cheap shit. They're not HF, but they're made to be cheap to produce. They overheat way too quickly, the hammer versions are too weak for continuous cement drilling, and the frames are even cheaper plastic than the cordless.

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inexpensive but they hold a charge well and I've really liked them so far

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-11812-Lithium-Ion-Reversible-Batteries/dp/B0027DXDW0

>>1123179
>Stanley owns all three of those brands

People need to stop posting these like they prove anything.
Just because a large monopoly parent company owns other brands doesnt mean they are all that related.

>>1123222
What is the point of buying up all of those brands? Product differentiation. It allows you to have a brand in every section of the market and gives your customers instant identification of where you stand on the price/performance.

And that, fucknut, is why I asked where it was on the scale. Out here, all we have is DeWalt and B&D. Just about the only Porter Cable tools I see are routers. I can't think of a single store that even carries Stanley power tools at all.

>>1123106
i have 2 Dewalt 1.5ah 20v batteries that have been going for about 6 years without a single issue. as long as you don't let them sit around dead they can and will last a very long time

>>1123106
i have a ridgid corded drill i got for $60. it has metal everything and never had a problem with it so far as far as lack of power or build quality.

holding can be kind of awkward because it's really front heavy and shaped more like a pistol than a cordless drill

>>1123106
bought a 20 volt Lithium Ion Black and Decker drill on sale at Walmart for 30 buck down from 60, came with 2 batteries and works pretty damn good, the batteries hold a charge for a long ass time too

>>1123106
Buy once, cry once. I get aftermarket dewalt batteries on Amazon. Also, dewalt is literally Black and decker's high end line

>>1123276
Actually no. DeWalt is SD&B's mid-range line. Their 'high end' line would be something called Mac Tools.

>>1123106
If you are looking corded for such light use as you describe, just get a $25 garage sale special. I have a 1980s B&D I keep around the house for when I left my cordless in the studio. it works

>>1123298
Nor accurate. Mac are no more high end than dewalt but they both focus on different markets. Mac are aimed at automotive and DeWalt are aimed at carpenters, DIYers, dry Wallers etc.

Get a used one that's older then you, OP. It'l outlive you.

>>1123407
Yeah, listen to this guy.
Get a used one with Nickel batteries.

You shouldn't even get an older corded one.
Sure they last a long time, and have big torquey motors but they are all very low speed.
I have two early Black and Deckers.
One is 900/1600 RPM and the other is 600 RPM.
It takes ages to drill something.

>>1123443
I got an old Makita 12v NiCD set of tools a few years back for free. I rebuilt the batteries with LiIon and hey, it's basically a modern drill.

See if you can find some used cordless tools for cheap. Often times the batteries die and the used can't fix it themselves and don't want to pay for replacements. They'd rather go out and buy another combo kit for $150 then spend $25 rebuilding the batteries.

>>1123449
>I rebuilt the batteries with LiIon
did you put a lithium charging circuit in the nicad charger?

>>1123106
> mostly doing hobby electronics (…) drilling holes in the wall

Ugh....
Buy two drills.
One hammer drill, one drill press.
I've not seen yet a hammer drill that would last long with perfectly centered and clearance-less axis.

Also...
> drilling holes in the wall
> cordless
What? A hammer drill should be heavy to work well, and those cordless fuckers are so light that most of their "power" recoils back to you.

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>>1123106
pic related is exactly what you want
you just don't know it yet
it's nice here
join us

>>1123462
Not every wall is stone or brick.
Most walls are ply or sheetrock

>>1123466
He should save up a bit more and get the kits with the 3ah batteries. Those 1.5s don't last long.

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I hope OP doesn't mind if I hijack this thread for a bit. Waste to start a new one.

I'm about to buy my first drill/screwdriver, and I don't really want something too cheap but around the 150-300usd range.
I want it to be brushless, compact.

I've looked through about 250 different ones the past hour, got 4 contenders.

Bosch GSR 10,8 V-EC HX (2x2,0Ah)
Milwaukee M12 CID-202C (2x2,0Ah)

Bosch GSR 10,8 V-EC (2x2,0Ah)
Milwaukee M12 CDD-202C

I would prefer the chuckless(?) versions due to compact and I wouldn't need to drill too much.
And the main reason for these is because I've seen chuck adapters. So that's my main question, are these adapters good? With hex mount.
The few I've seen have been max 6mm, all metal construction. I'd like at least 10mm for the times I need to drill in steel.

I'm leaning towards the milwaukees. Preferably the chuckless with a chuck adapter.

Am I stupid?

>>1123490
Just noticed that the Milwaukee M12 CID-202C also had a hammer function?

Is this something that is on all the time?

I'd just rent a machine if I need to drill holes in the walls, but if this can handle it, it'd be real neat, but not if its on all the time.

>>1123470

>Most walls are ply or sheetrock

That depends where you live. A sheetrock wall is a rarity in the Caribbean

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>>1123452
No. All I got were the tools. No batteries or charger. I picked up some dead batteries from a thrift store for a couple of bucks and gutted them. I then used a standard off the self 12v LiIon charger and made a little clip that and fit on the contacts of the battery. Picture related is the type I'm using. I think they are 5-6 AH now, though. I used some high end batteries as replacements. The original used Sub-C NiCD batteries. I forget the number but I used some LiIon that are a little smaller than the original Sub-Cs and put some plastic spacers in the case so they wouldn't rattler around.

>>1123490
The Milwaukee and Bosch respectively 12v lines are disgusting to use. They're not ergonomic at all so if you're planning on using compact tools for a long period id recommend you look elsewhere.

It's mostly due to the fact the batteries slide into the handle so had to accommodate at least 3 18650 cells. This isn't user friendly.

>>1123490
I settled on the milwaukee one.
The battery holds a long charge and is surprisingly powerful for such a small difference. the main difference between the bosch and milwaukee is the former drives screws up to twice as fast, but the latter has a better battery life which I favor more. both are light and well built. I recommend against getting the quick chuck. While they're great for speed of changing bits, they're mostly suited for impact drivers. For a drill you'll want a chuck so you can use regular round cheap drill bits. I have the quick chuck and it blows having to use hex quick connect drill bits.

>>1123539
It won't be used for long periods of time, so I guess I can take the hit for that.

Thanks for the warning though!

>>1123548
I finally managed to find an all metal quick chuck adapter that goes to 10mm, so yes, I think the non-chuck version is the best option now.

But I'm still unsure about the Milwaukee M12 CID-202C. The hammer function.
It's just so damn strong compared to the others. It's around 130nm compared to 20-30nm for the others.

Would I be able to drill in concrete walls with that one?
Granted it won't be that often, it's a real nice thing to have. I don't mind the noise level.

>>1123617
Spent more time learning what all the different things mean..!

Impact driver is what the milwaukee I'm looking at is.
That seems very useful compared to the others.

So I think I will get the Milwaukee M12 CID-202C with a hex adapted chuck.

>>1123539

That's not exactly a common complaint heard about 12V drills.

>>1123617

> It's just so damn strong compared to the others. It's around 130nm compared to 20-30nm for the others.

You're almost certainly comparing a number from an impact driver to a drill. The better 12V drills get near 35 Nm nowadays BTW. The Bosch is a little lower, but it's also the most compact.

>>1123651

Using an impact driver for general drilling or driving screws is not a great idea. It can work some of the time, but if you need subtlety it won't.

For instance drilling a hole in a bathroom tile or driving screws into drywall with an impact driver would be a bad idea.

>>1123617

>Would I be able to drill in concrete walls with that one?

Not with the impact driver, yes with the hammer drill ... frustratingly slowly. Look here how a 50 Euro Lidl SDS drill compared with a Bosch pro-line hammer drill.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBuf57B8IEw

Hammer drills are for masonry, using them on concrete is not worth the frustration.

>>1123681
>For instance drilling a hole in a bathroom tile or driving screws into drywall with an impact driver would be a bad idea.
lol wut? are you retarded? an impact driver with a carbide masonry bit is literally 100x better than trying to drill a hole in a bathroom tile with a regular drill. And with drillbits coming with hexhead ends now, there is literally no reason to use a regular drill, unless you are trying not to piss off the neighbors. Even drywall screws go in just fine, and guess what - the drywall 2 for $5 bit tips last about 5x as long because an impact drill usually hammers it in just enough it doesn't sit there and just round off, or crush the drywall and suck the screw wayy in because you don't want to round the head off.

>>1123617
> M12 CID-202C. The hammer function.
that's an impact driver. there's a difference between an impact driver and hammer drill. hammer drills delivers a reciprocating force to the tip of the drill bit in a perpendicular motion for breaking power. impact drivers deliver the pulsating torque bursts in a rotating manner to maximize "twisting" power. hammer drills are best for making holes in concrete whereas impact drivers arebest for installing a screw in concrete like a tapcon.

>>1123497
the hammer drill setting is something you select to use on the drill itself. I have a set of the 12v milfuckies and I got it for cheap brand new before christmas. OP, it doesn't matter what tool you buy nowadays, there's no business in selling one tool to one person for their entire life anymore. You're going to be buying another battery or drill in the future, just accept it.

>>1123687
you should tell that to my entire company, all we use hammer drills for is drilling into concrete and cinderblock walls

>>1123732

Well, I guess it's a good way to make sure you need a lot of hours.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKDIggpbXqU

PS. unless you mean you also call the SDS/spline/etc drive drills, hammer drills.

>>1123106
Get them at a pawn shop. Got a Dewalt cordless impact, drill, dremel, 3 batteries and charger, bag, gloves, and grinder with discs and wire wheels for $140.