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I have a stupid idea that requires a constant current and voltage

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Thread replies: 45
Thread images: 5

I have a stupid idea that requires a constant current and voltage supply capable of 32V at whatever amps 2500W is.

Whenever I try Googleing this, I just get a bunch of bullshit and contradicting information on how to build a constant current. So how do I do it /diy/?

I have no luck on finding one that will go big enough for this, so it seems building is my only option. Has to go from 12v ish (car electrical system) to 32v and limit the current. It also needs PWM control on top of that.

It's for driving LEDs.
>>
>>1121259
Bro, you arent going to be able to draw 2500w of leds off of a car
shits 208 amps when a standard alternator is rated for 90
>>
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>>1121271
plus what are you going to be doing? Driving the fucking sun down the road?
pic related, the other people on the road.
>>
>>1121259

>constant current and voltage supply
>and

NO.
>>
P = E * I

2500 = 32 * I
2500/32 = I
78.125 Amps = I
>>
>>1121271

A good battery can crank at the necessary currents, but obviously it won't last long.
>>
>>1121271
That would be 6656 Watts.
>>
>>1121271
That's where the PWM comes in, I can scale it down for continuous use, or have full power momentarily.

>>1121273
That's the idea, but off road. Mostly with no people within the beam.
>>
>>1121278

12V battery ...
>>
>>1121278
At 32 Volts, that is. Obviously not at 12V.
>>
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>>1121259
>2.5KW
Not even the fug is that strong.
>>
>>1121280
Yeah, I corrected myself there. Even at 14.2V output from the alternator, 90A output means he has 1278 watts to work with not counting losses. He's gonna need a bigger alternator.
>>
>>1121282
That's kind of the problem. I could split it up in banks of 500w, but it would complicate the design and result in a more bulky or dangerous power delivery, as well as raise the cost.
>>
>>1121259

Unless you want to DIY a high current converter yourself (I don't see anything cheap around) just combine 25+ of these (your battery won't be delivering 12V while you turn this monstrosity on, so you need a few more than you'd think). Thermal epoxy some small heatsinks on the MOSFETs and use cooling fans.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-DC-boost-converter-Constant-Current-Mobile-Power-supply-10A-250W-LED-Driver/32642489577.html

Don't turn it on for much longer than 10 seconds ... your car battery will not appreciate it.

If they interview you after you burned/blinded yourself thank anon.
>>
>>1121283
Oh yes! Glad to see this thing again! how has it been working?
>>
>>1121297
I can safely just put those in parallel?
I'd still need to work out the PWM control, so I can run it longer then a few moments.

The battery is like 600CCA, it should be fine with it and not droop too far.
>>
>>1121305
>600CCA
That is not sustained for more than a few seconds.
Look for a larger alternator.
>>
>>1121307
I'm going to supplement that with capacitors and extra batteries as needed. I have a ton of 12v 5ah SLAs if the need comes.

But normally, I'd only need 100% power for no more then a minute or two. It would only be used in this way for emergency, photography, or fucking around purposes.
My alternator is rated 170A peak, I figure driving around/reving will give me 90-100a to play with, which is enough for 40-50% duty cycle. (which is still retardedly bright)
>>
>>1121310
>I'd only need 100% power for no more then a minute or two
Are you chasing vampires or some shit?
No matter if you add more batteries or capacitors your alternator is going to take a huge hit and will burn out trying to raise that voltage back to 14
>>
>>1121320
I could get a bigger alternator I suppose, but wouldn't it just simply put out as much amps as it can? It doesn't burn out when I throw a bunch of load on it at idle.

Also, can I use amps to control the intensity of an LED? I'm finding some boards on amazon that will push 2000w ish at 32v, and have control of the amp output. I can just double two up, and find a way to get to 32v
>>
So after a bit of reading and shit.

It seems like I can just use a big constant current or a couple small ones, and limit the amps to limit the brightness and load. And somehow make 32 volts To feed into the Cc. And apparently it doesn't even have to be stable voltage, as long as it doesn't exceed 33v max. It will affect brightness, but won't hurt the LEDs.

The problem I've realized, and can't quite find information on what happens when I put LEDs in parallel. Or constant currents in parallel.
Do I just say 75amps across the whole array? (3a per led) it sounds like it will go out of balance this way...

If there should be a failure, I can rely on the fuse links between the main buss bar and the LEDs to save the array, at the expense of 24 fuses or so.

I am worried about doubling up the constant currents though. Will that lead to a small fire?
>>
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>>1121344
Nigga all you need is to add a resistor in between the leds and they will happily run fine.
You may have to add one more LED diode to run off 14v
>>
>>1121283
>>1121303

I as well would like any kind of update on the fug
>>
>>1121348
Right, but I'm using 100w leds, which run off 32v. Wouldn't that make for a quite large resistor that wastes a lot of power into heat?
>>
>>1121351
>100w leds
This is why the retail light bars use loads of 3w leds.
You are already going to have a shitload of heat, time to start hunting for pc heatsinks to mount your LED chips on.
>>
>>1121351

Go watch Bigclive in 100W LEDs, they're garbage.
>>
>>1121363
I have heat covered.
>>
>>1121371
With what? Im thinking you are underestimating how much heat these fuckers output
>>
HELLO MY NAME IS IKABARR TIKABARR ISLAM ABRAHAM THE SECOND FROM THE SHIT-ASSES.
>>
>>1121259
>I have a stupid idea

Yes. You do.
>>
>>1121373
Water cooling built into the aluminum enclosure.
>>
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>>1121379
this just keeps getting stupider
>>
>>1121381
And your idea of gluing a bunch of random fucking heat spreaders from old computers isn't retarded?
>>
>>1121259
Are you making slow motion videos or something?
>>
>>1121392
no, I wouldnt be retarded enough to buy 250 100watt LEDs from chinkland
especially when they will require more power than the electrical system is able to handle
hope you like running 0000 gauge wire dumbshit
>>
>>1121418
What the hell are you actually trying to build?
>>
>>1121418
I stated 25 leds. 75 amps at 32v.
Ill probably use the proper rated wire gage which has like 4ga or something. And for the internal, a solid piece of aluminum squarestock coated in ceramic or something.

>>1121423
a portable sun.
Packaged sort of resembling a led light bar for camouflage.
>>
>>1121283
>>1121303
>>1121350

Holy shit, I'd forgotten about the fug.

I must know what became of it.
>>
>>1121283
What's the fug?
>>
Well, if it isn't Troy Hurtubise.
We meet again.
>>
12v ledshttp://m.ebay.com/itm/Super-Bright-10W-20W-30W-50W-100W-LED-Lamp-Chip-Flood-Light-Bulb-Bead-DC9-12V-/291555320909?nav=SEARCH&varId=590608178770
>>
>>1121639
Some anon's power supply. Pretty big, runs on 3-phase power.
>>
>>1121770
Only the 10w led in that multi-product listing is 12v, according to the description.
>>
>>1121639
https://warosu.org/diy/thread/S686690#p698285
/diy/ used to have less but better traffic just a few years ago.
>>
>>1121807
It seems like you are right and I am completely and utterly wrong. No 100w 12v leds there.
Thread posts: 45
Thread images: 5


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