We are Remodeling one of our rooms We just repaired a bunch

As long as floor can move it doesn't matter. If moulding is 1/2" or smaller, well, better run floor under drywall

>>1107683
is there a good way to space it that way?
I bought small tombstone spacers and I don't think id be able to get them back out from under the dry wall after the floor is in.

You can drill small holes along edge of your first row and drive small nails or screws, at least 2 in each piece, so floor doesn't move while putting together. Dont forget to remove nails/screws when done. Moulding will cover holes.

...I've done it this way many times. Better than spacers because won't allow floor to "bounce" or slide if you have to do any tapping to lock pieces together

what about taping credit cards / gift cards to the drywall? this will give you a very small gap that will be uniform the whole way and you can still pull them out

No cards. Won't work. Do as I say...nails/screws.....or fail.

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base shoe is a thing.

honestly flush with the drywall would be fine. In the video they installed a 1/4 away the base board which seems janky

i always thought keeping the spacing was in case the walls expand and exert pressure on your interior run causing it to rise up or pop and crack.

i think once you get it down as the entire thing its not likely to shift. unless you plan on playing basketball in the room.

>>1107713
I am going too use taller narrower molding because of the amount of damage and lack of drywall in large areas also I like it better lol

Anyways, I guess I will try my best to just align it flush with something thin

Baseboard wasn't mentioned in original post, and since gap under drywall is visible it's safe to assume there is none (baseboard). Only mentioned going back with a thin moulding, strange to me, but I don't judge. Base shoe is a thing, but won't cover drywall gap, so will need baseboard...and shoe...if thats the direction ur heading...which is the norm, but again, not judgin'. But that's extra materials/costs. Since there is nothing at the moment, run floor 1/4" from bottom plate of wall and then you can use your "thin" moulding, or the more conventional baseboad. You won't "have to" use a shoe moulding this way. ..cheaper. And the spacing is not to prevent the walls from closing in and messing up floor, it's to compensate for the movement of the new floor itself. It "floats"...expands and contracts with changes in temperature. ...temp nail it down, and get it done. I linked to this forum from a "waste time online" website.....mission accomplished, peace-out!

>>1107746
Sorry, I should have mentioned, we are using a baseboard, that's the thinner stuff I was mentioning
This is really one of my first home improvement jobs of this type...

I might end up using something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/House-of-Fara-8819-1-2-in-x-3-1-2-in-x-96-in-MDF-Primed-Base-Moulding-8819/205426937?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-205426937-_-N

So I guess the gap would be fine then

>>1107664
That looks like my nephews bedroom in their old apartment.

Their landlord tore up all the carpet and did that too, added extra thickness to the baseboards, poorly painted them, called it a day and raised the rent.

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>>1107818
well... This is my house lol
We used to keep the dogs in this room, they damaged the room quite a bit so we removed the ruined trim, soiled carpeting, painted everything to kill the smell of... dog
I am turning it into my new office
Before paint:

>>1107934

Did you seal everything before you started painting? A good coat of Kiltz will work wonders for the smells. It would be terrible to fix everything back up only to have the dog smell come lingering back.

>>1108121
yeah 2 coats of killz on the walls and what was left on the floor

I have decided 5/8" thick trim
and 1/8" spacers