Alright, /diy/nosaurs, I've got a problem, and I don't

>>1106040
Heat her then cheat her!
Heat and a cheater bar would probably work if you have the room.

But this is one of those times where you need to step back.
Did they seal it for a reason?
Maybe the retard stripped it out and then sealed it.

There may actually be risk opening it up.
How important is changing the fluids?

>>1106046
>How important is changing the fluids?
It's starting to make a noise, I was checking to see why

File: 1482003005770.jpg (45KB, 657x527px) Image search: [Google]

45KB, 657x527px

>>1106040
drill it out
tap it
put a new bolt in

this can be done for <20 dollars if you're not a typical /o/ fucktard

why did you come to /diy/?

>>1106071
Because I didn't wanna get a bunch of responses from typical /o/ fucktards

That looks more like pipe dope (also bad idea)
agree with >>1106046 But just a bit of heat around the bolt then touch the bolt with an ice cube.
Also PB Blaster the shit out of it.

What is the xfr case on, got a part/model??

>>1106091
How much heat are we talking, here?

I'm too lazy to get the part number right now, but it's a '99 dodge durango 4x4.

File: xfrcase.jpg (55KB, 800x600px) Image search: [Google]

55KB, 800x600px

>>1106093
>99 dodge durango 4x4
look like this?

Just a bit of heat. I use a propane torch and run it around a few times. You don't want to melt/burn anything, just warm it up. But try PB Blaster first. that stuff has saved my ass more than once. not a fan of WD-40...

>>1106099
Also, if it's cold as balls outside, skip this. You can shatter the case. Sometimes it's worth it to pay a mechanic to fix the problem. Though they charge a shit-ton for cases even though they are the easiest thing to drain/fill. Providing of course someone doesn't overtighten the nuts.

>>1106099
>>1106103
I tried your ideas, but none of them really worked...

>>1106112
if you can jack up the side of the truck so you think theres no fluid touching the plug
try the propane torch directly on the plug for a minute or two
then stick a piece of ice on the plug to shock it

Hear it or hit it. If its a must to change the fluids then just try anything. If the allen bolt gets broken, just drill it and put a new one in place. Or find another plug where you can fill the case. You can always fill it trough the drain plug.

>>1106129
Heat*

>>1106040
Get a bigger impact. Also trying heating it a bit

>>1106040
>steel plug
>aluminum case
The last guy who opened it probably didnt use enough thread sealant when he put the plug back in. Try to take the plug out after driving the vehicle long enough to get the transfer case and fluid up to operating temperature. Dissimilar metals in contact create galvanic corrosion, this is stronk like welding. I suggest you soak it with blaster or kroil a couple times a day for 2-3 days, then heat the bung around the plug to at least 400 degrees F. Try to use a hex key socket with a long handled ratchet. When you round out the head of the bolt you can try to drill it out with a left hand drill bit.

some science for you
Aluminum expands more than steel when heated, so the hotter you get it the easier it will be to remove the plug.
Aluminum dissipates heat quicker than steel does(doubly so in this case because of surface area, and fluid fill), so work quickly once its hot.
Aluminum melts at around 1200 F. dont hold the torch on one spot too long.

t: machinist that has removed a bunch of these stuck plugs, and also the broken taps from diy attempts at fixing them, in all sorts of aluminum transfer cases and transmission housings.

I would guess it had a leak and some dumb fuck decided to seal it. You're likely gonna need a lot of heat to get that shit loose. What's the temperature there? If it's really cold I'd suggest waiting for a warm day or you could risk cracking the case. Also try adding a petroleum based penetrating oil as it could eat away at whatever was used to seal it. Biggest concern with heat is fucking internal seals and the gasket so you'll have to be careful

>>1106129
I'm tempted to just fill through the drain plug at this point

>>1106137
Alright, thanks for the info.

>>1106040
Best to beat the fuck out it with a hammer

>>1106901
solid piece of advice right there. When all else fails, just fuck it all up

Might be worth a try;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqZYgReuywM

>>1106040
put the longest pipe you can fit on the end of a racket/breaker bar and go to town. if it fucks the hex, just drill it out and get a new plug.

just be careful to stop before you get close to the threads and just collapse the remaining material in on itself.

>>1107697
Knowing my luck, I would leave that too long and end up having the Alum spill into the transfer case.

>>1106040
is the transfer case aluminum and the bolt steel?
if so, make a container that can hold water around the bolt, and add alum to the water. heat the water to quicken up the process and after a bit of time passes, the bolt will have eroded away without any damage to the aluminum body

>>1107778
But what if >>1107752 happens?

>>1107779
alum just eats away at steel

>>1107780
But wouldn't there be steel parts in the transfer case?

>>1107781
lots of important steel stuff in it, its the thing that connects the tranny to the driveshafts. those chains and whatnot aren't gonna be made of some ninny tinny aluminum. you have to have at least some responsibility if you aren't willing to pay for someone else to fix it

>>1107781
just be careful though, whatever starts bubbling, is being eroded, so stop the chemical reaction by cleaning it off thoroughly

>>1106040
beat her till she cums

>>1106137
Do this. Ignore the rest. I have similar experience to the poster.

A useful trick that can't hurt anyting is to use a flat punch or bar and a large hammer to shock the plug a few times. Vibration can help disengage corroded threads.

When reinstalling I use pipe dope, anti-seize or teftape (just a little so it doesn't dangle into the case). All the above proven over close to forty years of wrenching. Dry threads are bad.

I expect the mention of teftape to trigger autists, but it does work nicely as anti-seize. I stopped most use of teftape on pipe because 3M and other anaerobic flange sealants and Loctite Red work much better under vibration. I wouldn't use them on drain plugs which are meant to be removed.

>>1106040
if heat and the impact didn't work you might try this method

soak the shit out of it with penetrating oil
tap several times with a hammer
try to loosen and tighten using a breaker bar

and repeat
soak, tap, loosen, tighten, soak, tap, loosen, tighten.

might take several hours of this and it works when heating can damage bits

you're going to end up pulling that case
quit being such a lazy bish and just do it

Weld a nut on it and cheat it open