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Maybe this is a stupid question, but how do you solder a quite

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Maybe this is a stupid question, but how do you solder a quite thick(16mm2/5 AWG) to a PCB connection such as in the picture?

I can't manage to get a good result. The solder on the cable seems to melt correctly, but the solder on the PCB doesn't melt and connect with the cable.
Should I've just have waited longer? I was afraid that the rubber around the cable would melt though, since it became really hot and I couldn't see any progress on the PCB. Or is my soldering iron to weak to melt it quickly enough or something? It's an $30 48 W soldering station which goes up to 450 C.
>>
>>1104150
Too thick for a 50 W iron, you need bigger iron with more mass. For a wire that big you need at least 150 W maybe even more.

The bigger the piece the bigger the thermal mass, the bigger the iron you need to heat the work area quick enough and hot enough up to temperature for the solder to work before the heat sinks away. And that is a very big thermal mass, way too big for any usual irons for electronics.

Why the fuck would you use such a big wire tho?
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>>1104150
Usually a wider tip helps a lot here, but i guess you might want to hold the tip you already have sideways on there to use as much surface area of it as you can, you want to press down the cable with your tip and hold it there and use a lot of solder, i think 380°C should be enough.
the isolation usually melts away a bit but that's nothing to worry about imho.
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>>1104150

Generally speaking...you don't. Wires that big usually have crimp connectors attached, to avoid the problems you've just discovered.

In the off chance you _do_ have to solder wires that large, you're going to need a fairly substantial iron. An 80W unit or larger should be sufficient The smaller irons just don't have enough thermal mass to heat the end quickly enough.
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>>1104160
I tried to held it sideways, maybe I could've hold it longer though. Or it's as the other anon said.

>>1104159
>>1104162
You think I can maybe "split it in two", so that I do half at first then the other half? Or do you think the iron would still not be powerful enough?

I'm gonna use it for a car amplifier to drive a subwoofer with. The amp recommended 6-4AWG depending on cable length, but the store only had 5 and bigger so I got that.
In the manual it says that the current consumption is 24A though, so I guess I could have gotten smaller ones.
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>>1104165
Hold the fuck up, the black and yellow wires to the right, they are the ones that feed the thick wire yes? Why do you need a big wire to connect them? You can use the same thickness because it won't make a difference.

But at 24 amp, are you sure you should be soldering shit? Are you sure you are wiring this thing up correctly? The whole thing seems very suspicious.
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>>1104165
No, hold longer is never ever in any situation the solution in soldering, in ANY soldering job, if you need more than 2 seconds to heat it up and get the job done, you ain't using a big enough iron.

Longer is not hotter. It means the heat will sink away and heat up the other parts you don't want to heat up before you get the job done. You don't want that. You want fast and a big enough thermal mass to dump the heat quickly to the solder area to melt the solder before the heat sinks away. You don't slowly dump heat into it and let the heat build up, you never do that.
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>>1104170
That pic is not mine, I just used it as an example(maybe I should've been clearer on that.)

But in the pic the small wires are to get the PSU to start, since they are meant to be used in servers where they have those connections to signal it to turn on/adjust voltage, like in a regular PC.
Pic related its the wiring diagram for the one I'm using.

>>1104171
Okay, thanks.
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>>1104172
There should be a user manual or something that tells you exactly what to do for that model
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>>1104180
The only thing I have a problem with is the soldering, everything else works good.
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>>1104181
I would probably fan out the loose strands to make sort of flat and parallel, trim them to lay flat and straight so it sits flat on the copper pad and cover a wide area, and then tin the wire, and then tin the pad, and then soldering them together by running the solder along the width of the contact

That way you can sort of manage with a smaller iron
>>
i think it's possible to do this without any new equipment.
- split each cable into 2 pigtails
- tin the 2 pigtails, and 2 spots on the copper tab
- hold the iron in between one pig tail and its corresponding tab until enough solder melts on the outside of each solder blob that you can remove the iron and join them.
- repeat
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>>1104187
>>1104188
I guess I will try something like this. Thanks guys.
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>>1104150
You have to be able to heat both the wire and the contact enough to get a solid connection.
Thread posts: 14
Thread images: 2


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