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My driver's side power window keeps blowing a 20a fuse (pic

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Thread replies: 29
Thread images: 10

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My driver's side power window keeps blowing a 20a fuse (pic related). For that window only, the switch doesn't work. There is no click or indication of anything happening with a fresh fuse. So it's obviously shorting, but here's the weird part.

My car alarm is still able to control that window. Remote can lower the window, and arming the alarm automatically rolls it back up.

I'm out of my element fishing through wires, can you guys give me some idea where to start? Obviously I didn't install the alarm, but it being there means approimenently twice as many wires.
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Next time don't buy a dodge.

Sadly this is a lesson we must all learn once.
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>>1099434
could be a bad ground for the door switch, find out where its grounded and check it
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>>1099437
Lexus, more than you can afford, pal.

>>1099439
I can't find an actual pin-out for the door switch harness. I can only find coarse electrical diagrams showing bundles.

It's a 2001 IS300.
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>>1099451
it all can't be connected to one stud can it? nothing like going through 5 miles of wire.

i'm bored and got some time on my hands. hopefully i can find something to help out. if anything i'll find out what you have to jumper to see if its the switch itself
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>>1099451
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/340526-need-help-power-window-problem.html

http://my.is/forums/f115/power-window-problem-391665/

think i found your issue, seems that if power is cut to the switches for whatever reason they have to be reset to work. your manual should tell you how to fix it. or its the master control module.
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>>1099456
>to see if its the switch itself
I can help there; I've replaced the driver's door switch module three times and the same thing happens with each one. The other three window switches work correctly from that driver's switch panel and from each door's switch panel, only the driver's window switch doesn't work.

>>1099458
The issue in those threads seems to be restricted to second-generation IS300s, thankfully. Mine is a 2001, first generation. I've disconnected the battery many times over the years and never run into that issue.
But just to be thorough I tried it it anyway, fiddling with the other three switch panels didn't help the driver's switch panel.

By the way, the alarm is able to raise and lower the driver's window with the driver's window fuse (image fuse 3) blown or removed.

I found what claims to be a complete wiring diagram but I don't see power windows anywhere on here, even though things like the defroster and seat controls are. Am I blind?
http://www.2jzgarage.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/2001_IS300_Wiring_Diagram.pdf
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>>1099451
>Lexus
>more than you can afford

Bless
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>>1099465

i thought the second link i posted had the same problem on a 2002, my bad

your not blind, i see nothing about about power windows, power mirrors yes, but that doesn't help.

so the window works without a fuse in it? that just means the alarm system bypasses the switch entirely.

when i had a motor replaced on my toyota at the dealership, it took them 3 hours. no one had put one in before so no one knew they had to cycle the window up and down 3 times. when they hit the switch it just moved a little bit and stopped.
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>>1099465

fucking found it

>http://www.2jzgarage.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/2001_IS300_Wiring_Diagram.pdf

page 13 in multiplex communication systems

middle of diagram it has window motors
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>>1099469
>so the window works without a fuse in it? that just means the alarm system bypasses the switch entirely.
Which must mean the fuse is between the alarm and the window switch. Which seems impossible, since every harness terminates in a fuse panel. So the alarm is installed... before the fuse panel? I'm more lost than ever. I thought a fuse panel was like a distribution hub with power coming in and being distributed through harnesses after passing through a fuse.

Well, I found another wire guide, but it's useless because it says every window wire is the same color.
http://www.alarmsellout.com/support/diagrams/vehicle/LEXUS%20IS300%202001-2005.pdf
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>>1099473
it should be the distribution hub for everything, but if your alarm can power the window without the fuse in it, that just means it bypasses the power window fuse and power is sent from the alarm to the motor itself.

2 separate lines for one job.

pins 2 and 1 or the red and green wires on the motor, if you put 12v to it you can diagnose if the motor is bad anyways
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>>1099472
I got excited to at least have some wire colors to check. Okay, so on page 14 is the driver's power window master switch.

I think I know where to look; wires 20 (green) and 8 (red) from the switch to the window motor in the door must be tapped by the alarm. So those wires go from the switch to the alarm, and then back from the alarm to the motor.

I'll check the wires from the switch to the alarm. But how is it that the window can physically work without the fuse, and only the switch is blowing the fuse?
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>>1099482
my best guess which i'm kind of pulling out my ass is something is shorted, what i'm not sure. window motors are like servos, its all controlled by the module but it has to know when to stop going up or down or arms will bend or the motor will burn out.

according to the fuse panel something else is on that 20 amp fuse besides the power windows, i don't know what "D FR" is off the top of my head.

i'm still going over the schematic to figure out why the alarm can still put the windows up, there is a section on the alarm. (i hate page schematics for troubleshooting, its even worse on pdf and not physical, but they are great to assemble off of).

is the alarm after market or factory installed?
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>>1099451
>Lexus more than you can afford
>not just a rebranded toyota you've been duped into paying more for
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>>1099482
pin 9 on the control module goes to ground, i don't know how long it is before it connects to the chassis, hopefully not behind the dash. that's where i would check for corrosion. but i think your safe from that just because its the only ground for the power control module, if that was bad nothing would work.

have you tried spraying contact cleaner inside the window switch as best you can and working it for a bit?

as for the alarm still allowing the windows to work, the only other fused link going to the power module are a couple 10 amp fuses, ECU and Gauge

i never got the "lets put electrical switches in a place that will get hit by water if the windows are open" mentality.
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OP here.

Son of a bitch.
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>>1099514
that will do it, sorry i was kind of right stating it could have been a bad ground.

no rubber grommet anywhere? that shouldn't have chaffed.
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>>1099516
It's outside the door bundle's sleeve so no grommet. There should probably have been a grommet on the hole from the factory.

In any case, I wrapped the wires up with electrical tape and sleeved them. Hopefully this'll stop it happening again.
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Replaced the fuse again aaaand it works!

Thanks very much everybody, I appreciate it. Turns out I'm just dumb and didn't check the absolute most obvious thing on the planet.
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>>1099520
lol thank you for starting a thread and being prepared
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Replace the door switch
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>>1099451
You own a 15 year old car thats worth about $2500
Not sure thats a thing to brag about
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>>1099466
>>1099499
>>1099541
its a movie reference you dumb millennials jfc
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>>1099451
>more than you can afford
>2001 is300

I honestly doubt you're smart enough to troubleshoot electronics saying shit like that. Try replacing different parts until it works, or see if you can manage to learn how to work a multimeter with an IQ under 90.
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>>1099434
You may have a bad power window relay.

This is a cheap test and a cheap problem to have. Try jumping the pins with a wire, to test if it's a bad relay:

Open fuse box(most cases)

Pull out the little box looking thing (electronic relay) for the power windows and identify the four or six slots it plugs into.

Then connect the 2 slots that are perpendicular, looking like this: — |
Not the 2 that look like this: | |

Use a wire small enough to fit but big enough not to melt. If the window rolls down or up its the relay.

You can use an ohm meter to test the wiring harness from those pins and determine if it's a switch or a motor or the relay or the wires, or a bad ground.
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>>1099754
>>1099580
How about you faggots learn to read a thread. OP has already found the cause and deployed a solution.
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>>1099771
Fuck I'm tired. Sorry all. damn it, I'm the fag this time. I didn't refresh...open the tab and got called into work. Nightshift 8(
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>>1099434
>Buy a german car, unlike gooks or old european immigrants they actually know how to combine mechanics with electronics.
Thread posts: 29
Thread images: 10


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