Hi all, my motor blower stopped working on me and I've troubleshooted

Post some pics. If you can find what gage the wire is, you could easily patch some in. Alternatively, you can just run to the junk yard and swap it out. The 1500 dollars is probably mostly labor costs because it's a pain in the ass to get to (presumably).

>>1095453
>Alternatively, you can just run to the junk yard and swap it out.

or just cut off the connector and splice it into yours

>>1095469
also look on rockauto.com to see what other vehicles use the same blower (probably dozens of other vehicles) go to 'pickapart' or similar (junkyard where you take what you want and pay a little)

The harness bullshit is standard procedure to avoid customer comebacks and make money, but you can splice in whatever you need. Perform the splice correctly. I prefer naked crimp connectors (not that shit with the bulky sleeves they sell at auto stores) and adhesive lined heat shrink. Industrial suppliers like Fastenal stock them but are relatively expensive. I order bulk packs off Ebay and heatshrink in 100 foot lengths for chump change.

>>1095453
This.

Jesus fuck.

2000 dodge durango.

45 matching plug ins

Next time my heater core goes out I'll cut the line and mount another in the fucking floor board...

>>1095449
find out where the current is not passing by using a voltmeter

>>1095692
What kind of fucking rubbish answer is this? Did you even comprehend OP's question you retard?

>Dealer
Chances are they're trying to hose you.

I would look at the switch first, that should be the most likely thing to fail first.
Had that hapen on my truck, just ran new wires to a toggle switch, motor ran ful blast but it got it working.

If it is the connector you could just move the pins a little off to the side so it makes better contact.
Depending on what the connector ends are, you might just be able to cut the plug off & put new fittings on the wire. If you could find a new plug end to splice in that would prob be best.

Rock auto . Com? Cheap and quality parts for almost any car.

Dealers are always scammers

Pop open your hood, look for the case on the firewall, it will look like a cyclindracal bump, cut open the end with a hot butter knife or something else to cut plastic, once you cut the end off you will see some bolts, unbolt it, put in the new one, jb weld or hot glue the plastic back on.

>>1095449

>Chevy Aveo LT 2006 owner reporting in

>>1095453 is correct. If you can figure out the wire then that $1,500 turns into less than 10 and a weekend and a case of beer. The ridiculous price is having to take out most of the fucking dash to get to the damn wire itself.

>take seats out
>take steering wheel down
>take instrument cluster out
>take steering wheel out
>center console
>don't fuck up the shifter
>mark and tag every connector and screw so you don't fuck up reassembly
>take rest of dash out

Underneath that 10+ hours of work it took me by myself, you finally FINALLY get access to the HVAC box. Oh you thought you were done?

>take apart box
>first you must drain heater core and ac system if equipped
>disconnect from firewall, pry open box that is built to never be reopened
>find blower motor
>use your own tools to see what's wrong
>replace every component in HVAC box because fuck having to do all this work again
>splice in new wiring harness if that's the case

AND THEN PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER FLAWLESSLY
Never trust a stealership, I took my jeep in one time since it was under warranty still because my blinkers didn't work, was quoted hundreds to replace the multi-function switch in the steering wheel (the physical lever you push to turn them on). It was the $13 relay by my feet when i drive and took less than 5 minutes. And that's how I got into wrenching my own vehicles. Fuck mechanics.

>>1097678
I'm not sure you have to take off the dash to get the blower motor out or drain the fluid, you just need to cut the housing off. The whole point of cutting the housing off is that it takes ~10 minutes where-as the dash will take like 2 days.

File: 1978_tucson-az-engine.jpg (42KB, 600x337px) Image search: [Google]

42KB, 600x337px

>>1097678
>>1097498
I would say that it's the blower motor rather than a switch or wire. This what I'm talking about.

Most chevy / gms/ pontiacs / olds mobile will have the blower motor housing protruding from the firewall on the left side, all he has to do is unbolt it and bolt on a new one, but most new models cover that shit up with plastic, so instead of taking the whole housing off you can just cut around the blower motor to access the bolts inside.

On a honda you can access the blower motor by taking out the glove box and reaching behind the dash.

I wouldn't even bother taking off the dash as I said.