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>buy cheapest, shitty brushes >use once and throw away

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>buy cheapest, shitty brushes
>use once and throw away because you're too lazy to clean them.

I seriously hope you guys don't do this.

Water-based:
1. Run under hot tap until water runs through the bristles clear.
2. Fill a bowl or can with hot water, add a few drops of dish soap
3. Swish the brush around in soapy water
4. Rinse with hot water
5. Run a five tooth comb through the bristles starting as close to the ferrule as possible
6. Repeat steps 3-5
7. Soak up as much water as possible with a rag
8. Place brush back into original brush cover

Oil based:
1. Gather two glass jars (Jar 1 and Jar 2)
2. Add thinner to one of the glass jars about 1 cm deep
3. Place brush in jar with paint thinner; wait about half an hour
(Solvent will drive most of the paint/varnish into the jar via capillary action
4. Sqush brush against sides of the jar
5. Run a comb through the brush
6. Dump contains of that jar into Jar 2
7. Repeat steps 2-6 twice
8. Place brush back into original brush cover

What's your ritual?
>>
There is definitely a place for cheap throwaway brushes.

I only have one large brush that I properly clean, pretty much the same method you said. Then I have a shitload of throwaways.

I also paint miniatures as a hobby, brush care is much more important there.
Brush soap and conditioner is a must to keep the bristles soft and to make the brush keep its shape.
Non synthetic bristles are a must too, synthetic brushes just shit out all the paint onto the mini as soon as you touch it.

So this is a general painting and brush thread then?
Neat.
>>
>>1093256
>wait about half an hour
so 6 months is bad?
>>
My uses of cheap throw away brushes:
>Epoxy Resin
>polyurethane
>seasoning grills/smokers (season them at 450°F which burns the bristles)
> glues
> painting for longer periods than the drying time
>>
>>1093294
>>seasoning grills/smokers (season them at 450°F which burns the bristles)
one of those copper scouring pads dipped in oil with tongs works nice
>>
>>1093311
I've always found this method to be way better, especially if you use natural bristles, adds a little bit of carbon behind for an ultra thin ablative shielding
>>
>>1093256
>What's your ritual?

Throw the fucking things away if it's oil-based, because cleaning them like that takes too damn long.

If it's water-based, no problem.
>>
>>1093256
How cheap are you? Just throw them, it's actually better for the environment by not washing all those chemicals into the water, they don't just dissappear you know. Just charge your client a couple of bucks more
>>
>>1093492
Good quality brushes cost $15+ each.
Why the hell would you let them get ruined even though it only takes a couple minutes to clean them? They should last at least a hundred jobs before you need to toss them.

>it's actually better for the environment
It's dont
>>
Ohh lel. This is totally a cute idea for a meme. I mean, it's obvious that most people just throw them away now, because they're cheap. In fact, there isn't really such thing as a 'quality' brush. They all are pretty similar.

BUT, here's where it gets interesting. We can shame people for not wasting their time to wash out their brushes. We can make it seem like they're buying the wrong brushes. Like there is a certain type they were supposed to buy. It will be hilarious.

Perhaps we could even trick people into buying some shitty or overpriced brand.

This is totally going to be fun. And it's an extremely original idea. I can't think of a single other board that has done it.
>>
Re-using latex brushes is fine. Oil-based is a huge waste of time, especially considering the cost of paint thinner (15-20$ a tin) and the time involved cleaning them. This is one of those times throw-away HF 1$ (seriously) brushes save you so much in time and money
>>
>>1093528
Yes, oil paints are much more of a pain in the ass but you only have to use a bit of solvent if you use the two jar method.

Under no circumstances should anyone dip a loaded brush into a large jar of fresh paint thinner - this is a colossal waste of material.
>>
A good brush makes a difference.

Have fun cutting with your shitty dollar store brushes.

You can wrap brushes in a plastic grocery bag real tight, and it'll stay good for a while.

You can revive a brush left in latex. Oil you're fucked.

Just get a fucking spinner.
>>
give me a cleanup method for glue-based, when doing laminates......

there's a time and a place for disposables.
>>
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>>1093506
>>
Most of my work is utility and infrequent. Just has to look good enough. Why break out a $15 brush to slap some Rustoleum premix on a fence?
>>
This is an important topic.

BUMP
>>
>>1093256
Water based or die. Oil master race bit fuck 30 jars and mineral spirits on my shit.

I do keep cheap shot brushes around tho to be lazy.
>>
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>>1093579
>glue-based paint

Hello we are talking about paint brushes here. You should use a silicone spatula for glue.

NE ways, $3 paint brush=$3 paint job

I only use Purdy XL brushes, they are great for latex paint and breddy decent with everything else.
>>
>>1093528
Can't you just use xylene, toluol or any other non polar organic solvent? I see no reason to waste paint thinner on it.
>>
ITT: People who don't already own an air compressor.
>>
Epoxy applicator here.
I buy 1000 brushes at a time for just under$1.50 a piece. They're about par with what hardware stores sell for 6 or 7 bucks. Some days I go through a dozen or more.
The real bitch is roller sleeves. I got the price of a 460 mm nap down to $10 but still some days burn through a dozen ($120). You could theoretically clean this shit with a million dollars of zylene if it gave you enough time. There's always a reason for consumables to be just that, op just doesn't think outside his/her small world.
>>
>>1096085
Alcohol works quite well for removing epoxy imo, I just leave whatever has been drenched with epoxy in a (closed) tupperware with a cup of 96% alcohol for a couple of days and the epoxy turns into a gummy and non-sticky crap that you can revove with your fingers.
>>
>>1093546
how would I go about reviving a latex hardened brush?
>>
>>1093256
>What's your ritual?
I buy the cheapest shit and throw it away after use.
>>
How do youz guyz preserve your oilbase paints and clear coats from oxidation/skinning over?

Does the trick where you pour some propane in the pail work? The idea being that propane is heavier than air and will fall to the bottom liquid, forming a barrier against oxidation. There are commercial products for this purpose that use argon gas but I'm thinking that propane may be just as good.
>>
>>1095650
my dude
>>
>>1093256
Lightly tap brush against toe of boot to remove water...do not put back into sleeve until dry...you not a painter negro
>>
Purde is the only brush you should ever use...Cheap brush you cannot cut in worth a fuck and they dont hold paint...
>>
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>>1096472
>>
>>1093256
cold water is better
>>
>>1096385
Not a good idea, OP used to go to the AA.

>>1096472
I do that too, but i rarely have to use a brush, so fuck that. I oil my wood mostly with a rag anyway.
>>
>>1093256
>Fill a bowl or can with hot water, add a few drops of dish soap

Dish soap= Surfactants compounds that lower the surface tension between two liquids or between a liquid and a solid.

This will cause issues with latex paint adhesion, dont do it. Ivory bar soap 98% pure no surfactants.
Keep a bar of Ivory soap in a small plastic tub and rub your wet brush around on it while cleaning your brush, saves a lot of time and does a great job.
>>
>>1097763
Soap is a sufactant
>>
>>1096472
This because I can afford brushes and spending time and money on solvent cleaning is a false economy.
Thread posts: 35
Thread images: 5


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