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What item would you use to fasten A and B (both 1/4" thick

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What item would you use to fasten A and B (both 1/4" thick aluminium) to one another? I'm thinking of something like a 90° angle bracket BUT with holes countersunk the other way (see pic in next post)

Can't seem to find anything that matches this description, and I've been looking all day. Does such a product exist? If not, what product should I be using instead?


TL;DR version: I have 4 aluminum hollow square tubes, welded into a hollow rectangle. I have plates cut out of the side face (B in pic) so I can access the motors and electronics on the inside (should happen very rarely). The fastener just has to hold the plate in place for long periods of time without rattling.
>>
Pic related is the closest I've gotten... but I can't help that think because the holes are countersunk the wrong way, I'm looking at the wrong product. We want the right tool for the right job, yes?
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>>1093172
That just goes on the inside of a right angle. You want one to go on the outside then.
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>>1093170
Why not just make B wider and bolt it on to the sides?
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>>1093172
>>1093201
>>1093209
Or just get brackets with no countersinks, and countersink them yourself, a bit is like $10 and you can do it with a hand drill.
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>>1093172
weld pieces of aluminum inside"a" where you want screws to go
drill and tap
counter sinks on "b"s face
screws through "b" into "a"
>>
>>1093201
Does such a product exist? If so, where?


>>1093209
For aesthetic reasons I would rather not. However, I'll possibly weld two aluminum 1/2" square bars at the top/bottom of the inside of the tube (corresponding to the top and bottom of B) so I could just tap/bolt it in place like >>1093340 said.


>>1093210
Yeah I thought about that. But even though this is /diy/, sometimes you don't want to DIY, you dig?
I wonder why such a product (i.e. outside countersunk right-angle bracket) doesn't exist? I wouldn't have thought what I was doing was that extraordinary at all. Oh well


>>1093340
I reached a similar (although less articulate and concise) conclusion just before checking this thread again. Thanks man, probably what I'll end up going with.
>>
File: how much.png (315KB, 1247x761px) Image search: [Google]
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Rather than clutter up this board with another thread, I'll just ask my (possibly stupid) question here:


So I need 12 pieces of aluminum plate cut (all 1/4" thick and in 3 different sizes (pic related). It's cheapest and most accurate if I buy one large piece of aluminum plate at the local metal store and take it to a CNC machine shop for cutting into smaller pieces (he metal store can only cut to within 1/16" and that isn't good enough for what I need).

My question is this: how much extra length/width do I have to add to allow for the width of the metal saw at the CNC machine shop?

E.g. if pic related is ~610 mm long (left-to-right), and ~612 mm ±2 when the 1/16" tolerance is added, how much should I add for the width of the saw at the machine shop? If the blade is 2mm wide and he has to make 5 cuts, does that mean I should tack on 10 mm?


TL;DR does a metal saw actually remove an amount equal to the width of the saw blade, or does it just sort of "tear" it to either side?
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>>1093443
Nigga I didn't even pass 9th grade math, I don't fukkin know.
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>>1093443
Ask the machine shop what the kerf of their saw is.
>>
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>>1093443
>cut AL plates
>saw
waterjet bro

>does a metal saw actually remove an amount equal to the width of the saw blade, or does it just sort of "tear" it to either side?
to answer your question, a saws kerf is wider than the blade, because of tearout as well as runout of the blade. How wide depends on the blade and the application.

ring up the machine shop, tell them what size plates you need and from what material, theyll give you a price quote over the phone.

protip:theyll charge more if you supply the metal
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>>1093640
>protip:theyll charge more if you supply the metal

WHAT? why
Thread posts: 12
Thread images: 6


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