Hello /diy/, I want to reroute the eject button on my optic

File: stereo front panel eject button.jpg (3MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2592x1944px

Stereo’s front panel PCB-front eject button

File: stereo front panel (back) eject button.jpg (3MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2592x1944px

Stereo’s front panel PCB-back eject button

File: stereo pcb 5 pin out.jpg (3MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2592x1944px

I noticed in the old cd drive that the out pins that connects to the electric motor are load + and load-
this pic close up on the 5 pin out.

(lef to to right)
Load + Load- Open Gnd Close

File: Cd drive.jpg (3MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2592x1944px

this pic on the removed old cd-drive showing the load+ and load- pins routing straight to the motor

load + goes to the negative pole (black wire)
load – goes to the positive (red wire)
(yes, they are inverted, double, triple checked)

File: bd-rom.jpg (3MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2592x1944px

Now, my first idea was to strip that 5 pin connector and have the load + and load- soldered directly to the back of the BD-rom eject button/motor PCB – but I’m assuming that those pins are drawing power from the stereo itself and that would probably cause some weird cross power draw since I’m going to have the bd-rom connected as usual to my motherboard/psu (sata and molex cutting through a hole on the back of the stereo).

File: eject pcb front.jpg (3MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2592x1944px

Considering that, should I use the open/close pins? I believe that in doing so I would be using the stereo’s button as a common switch, simply closing the circuit and using the psu’s power draw*.

I’d like to know is if this is an incorrect assumption or not.

Also, can I ignore cathode and anode if this approach proves to be correct*. On this cannibalized old dvd drive, I saw that the right side is shorted (sw1), the bottom left receives two visible traces while the upper left (also marked as sw1) probably connect through the middle pcb layer to the shorted side.

File: eject pcb back.jpg (3MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2592x1944px

>>1091228
back for reference

File: bd rom eject pcb.jpg (3MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2592x1944px

This is the bd-rom’s eject pcb in close up.
(I’m worried because it appears to exist some crossinteractions through the ribbon out and to tray in, tray out; most likely some kind of state sensor).

tl;dr
from these 5 pins
close
gnd
open
load -
load +

>which ones should I solder at the optical drive’s backside of the eject PCB/button in order to have it functioning as a common switch
>is it possible do so without causing any cross power draw, since the drive will be connected as it is normally (psu/mobo).

combo completed.

Thank you for your attention.

File: DSC00550.jpg (3MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2592x1944px

>>1091232
For further clarity, my intention is to have the optical drive placed inside the stereo case -- just sitting there, it's intended to work as my computer bd-rom -- and I want find a way to have the stereo's eject button working for it.

Mostly because the stereo front panel gets in the way of its eject button but also to appease my autism.

File: button diagram ver1.jpg (1MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 2592x1944px

how does this switch work?
AC and BD are the same physical legs, so this pic is how I would guess.

File: button diagram ver 2.jpg (1MB, 2592x1944px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 2592x1944px

but Iv'e been trying different combinations and it behaves as if in this diagram.

I plugged the optical drive on the psu while testing some things with the stereo unplugged from the wall. If I connect a stripped wire tip coming from the 5 pin connector >>1091223, any one, to A, B or D and touch and lift any other one to C, the motor spins, opening or closing the tray depending on the current state. The only remarkable thing is that if I touch it again midway to closing or opening the tray it reverses the direction it was going to reopen or close again fully.

C is the trace that routes to eject, I don't know about the others.

what I can say now is that regardless of which combination of 2 wire tips used, they always close the circuit somewhere in the stereo independently of the switch button -- that I would have assumed to be normally open.

I'm starting to think that I should relocate the eject button to a different location, exactly like in that video in the OP, and stay away from the setreo front panel.

But even then, can I blindly solder connectors to a spare switch at the points A and C?

>>1091514
>it behaves as if in this diagram.
kinda... A-D does nothing (neither A-B).