So I'm finally getting around to doing laminate floors in

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The threshold had carpet under it and now I have to maybe cut the bottom section off to slide enough plank underneath to be nice looking?

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Hopefully using the bottom of this lip as a guide to cut off the front plate even across with that pencil line on the door trim?

>>1088232
>oscillating tools worth a shit for doing doors
yes, get a good blade for the cheap tool, be aware these tools aren't great at clearing sawdust from the cut.

Also you can drill with a masonry bit in a regular drill for your anchors

>>1088236
>>1088237
sounds like a good plan to me, use ear pro when cutting that threshold.

>>1088232
I bought a cheap one of those and it has been a godsend, I only bought it to do the one job but it has payed for itself ten times over since, also as someone else pointed out you should get a good blade for it and it will reward you for it.

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>>1088232
the DeWalt battery multitool is a life saver. 120 usd but totally worth it amazons got good deals but wait til monday.

Minor nitpick, OP, but undercutting doors refers to actually removing material from the bottom of the door, not the casing or trim. For a good hard second I thought you were literally trying to cut the door with an oscillating tool.

But yes, remove enough of the threshold to slide the tile under and you'll be fine. Keep in mind that while aluminum is flexible, you will need as straight a cut as possible so it doesn't look like hell. Devise a set of shims to literally perform a series of plunge cuts across the length of the threshold. Place the tool on the shins and adjust so that the blade hits your line, press in to cut while keeping the tool on the shims, repeat.

It'll be tedious but far less tedious than removing each threshold, cutting, and reinstalling.

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Can't attest to how this guy works for your purposes but I am super happy with mine so far. I thought multitools were gimmicky poopoo before I used one. Just bought this jigsaw head today and it works great

>>1088706

Holy fuck! I just bought the jobmax at Home Depot because it was the last tool in Ridgid line I didn't have. How much is the jigsaw head? This fucking solves my "Ridgid doesn't have a cordless jigsaw" problem.

>>1088711
>Ridgid doesn't have a cordless jigsaw

actually they do but its not sold in stores.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-18-Volt-X4-Cordless-Jig-Saw-Console-R8831B/203930501

just finished laminate floors in my moms house and heres a few tips from our experience
-oscillating tool is great. i got the nicer HF one that you pictured and it worked wonders. just go slow, backing it out often to clear sawdust. sort of nibble away at it.
- make some piles of left and right cut off pieces. you can use them at the end of runs to cut down on waste. (youll have a lot since you stagger the rows every 3 or 4 rows.)
-take some of those cutoffs and rip them into smaller blocks which have just the one edge of the locking lip on one side and a flush cut on the other, maybe 2 inches wide. use this in conjuction with the pull bar to tap the boards tight together. this saves the edge of the floring as the pull tool is too rough.
-make sure you have a regular hammer to use on the pull tool but a rubber mallet to tap down on any stubborn boards.
-make sure the joints are super tight. if you're having trouble getting a whole plank to seat correctly, youve probably developed a very slight curve in a previous row. fix it asap because it only gets worse with each row.
-for most transitions or thresholds, we found the best trim to use was the T shaped trim, not the one for 2 different levels. its ok if theres a slight angle once in place. sometimes rather than having the trim overlap the threshold, its better to have the trim butt up to it, and use a small strip of flooring to support the other side. just cut away the underlayment and use construction adhesive to glue it to the subfloor. seal with clear silicone.
-oh and start putting felt pads on all your furniture. its hella sad to scratch it right after you put it in.

tbc

start on the side with the most doors and obstructions. its easy to slip the first board under. but if you have to get a plank under door trim on a subsequent row, its hard because you have to tilt it to lock it in. we placed it to either side then tapped it over using one of the blocks i mentioned and the hammer. they will lock side to side that way, but not along the long side.

as for your door threshold, id see if its not too much trouble to take it out, install the floor, then reinstall it after. itll be easier to modify it if its not in place.

another good looking option would be to cut the threshold straight accross on the top side, maybe an inch or so back from the level of the wall. then run the flooring into the doorway half an inch, support the threshold with a narrow piece of flooring underneath and use the T trim to make a nice transition. definitely easier if you remove it and doable on a table saw.

as for the anchors the easiest thing will be a ramset tool... theyre like $25 but a rotary hammer works... hammer drill is weak sauce

good luck!

What's the blade compatibility like? Every brand of blades I see has different mounting holes. I'm eyeing the Milwaukee M18 oscillating tool, assuming shit fits it.

I have a Dremel brand one that I really like.

>>1088232
>>1088236

why do you need a hammer drill, is the floor in your living room a concrete slab?

if so was it you that glued the carpet to the concrete?

>>1088711
49.99, though be careful to get the all grey one like i have here. the older one was grey and orange and took 2 hands to start... something to do with a safety lock

>>1089227

Well roll me in shit and dip me in bread crumbs. Thanks anon.

>>1089558

I got the new one. And I also got two of the 5 Ah batteries today along with the dual charger. 4 Ah are great, don't get me wrong, but it's rare that I'm at a job site for more than a few hours a week and charging one by one them through the inverter or taking them out at home is a pain in the ass.