As we all know, red loctite makes it so that bolts are impossible

I have one application!

2 small exhaust bolts on a high performance 2-stroke, the heat causes the blue loctite I use on the other fasteners to fail and the vibrations cause the exhaust to rattle loose. I cannot think of the temp range either loctite are rated for but the red shit is the solution for me. I have also managed to loosen the bolts with minimal fuss as well.

>>1087373
>impossible to remove without the application of heat
wait.. do car manufacturers put that shit on some bolts?

>>1087408
>I cannot think of the temp range either loctite are rated
The general-purpose blue(243) and red(268) are rated from -65F° to 360F°. There's also a high temperature blue(246) and red(272) for -65F° to 450F°, or Ultra High Temperature blue(2422) and red(2620) for -65F° to 650F°.

In related news, did you know they'll just send you whatever catalogs you ask for? Henkels is neat.

File: SOG-Mini-Fielder-FF33-CP-600x500.jpg (184KB, 600x500px) Image search: [Google]

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>>1087373
I've got a question about loctite.
I've got a SOG Fielder knife, and it has a belt/pocket clip held on by two small screws (#4?)
One of the screws was damaged, and now the threads seem to be stripped.
I was thinking about using loctite like glue to hold the screw in place despite being stripped.
Thoughts?

>>1087430
The professionalanon will tell you loctite is not substitute for stripped threads, and you should replace the screw and apply new loctite.

The ghettoanon will tell you just superglue the fucker and pray it will stay up, also it has two screws, so one off isn't a big problem.

TLDR depends on how ghetto you are

>>1087373
>That being said, are there any real situations where red must be used over the blue?
I had a job assembling communication monitors some years back.

We'd use blue on what we MIGHT need to remove for servicing the unit, red on permanent nuts. There were RF isolation reasons as well though.

>tfw slowing giving a blue'd screw more and more torque knowing you'd can easily sheer off the head if you don't take your time

>>1087445
>you should replace the screw
I'm not sure, but I think it's the hole that's stripped.

>it has two screws, so one off isn't a big problem.
With only one screw, it just rotates around that one screw, so the clip is useless.

>depends on how ghetto you are
Normally, I'm ghetto as fuck, but this knife has a lot of sentimental value.
It's one of 7, that 7 people have, all engraved with our names.

>>1087373
I would exclusively use red loctite on an engines cooling fan where it threads to the water pump

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>>1087373
purple is for stuff that you dont want to lose
blue is for stuff that gets taken apart regularly
red is for stuff that should not have to be taken apart again for a long time
green is for stuff you never want to come apart again

well, green is 2 things actually

green 1 is a retaining compound for dowels, it smells and feels like cyanoacrylate

green also, is the wicking one for, oh fuck i forgot to put loctite on before i put it together

blue tastes the best too

>>1087460

What the hell would be the purpose of that? Those things tighten on their own, by design, they usually end up tightening pretty damn snug on their own.

As for loctite, the only time I've ever used red is for stuff i never intend to take off again, or stuff where the thread is so goddamn damaged. It actually does work pretty good for sealing up a stripped spark plug hole. Never did it on any of my vehicles, because I'm smart enough to put plugs in or out without stripping, but I've done it for other idiots who have stripped their plug holes. Beats a new head, but you're probably never getting another spark plug in there.

>>1087418
Some stupid mother fucker at Chrysler used it on my trucks calipers. There are no words to properly express the rage felt during that brake job

>>1087457
If it's stripped internally, your only hope is drilling it out a size up and re-tapping. You could try running a tap down it as is, but you won't get any real thread to grip, so it's very likely to strip back out again.

>>1087497
>>1087714
Here's the real question, how do you get green loctite off the parts once you do separate them, without damaging them?

>>1087781
>Here's the real question, how do you get green loctite off the parts once you do separate them, without damaging them?

http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797919477761

>>1087819
Google is failing me, where can one acquire this product?

>>1087888
Never mind it's just fucking nitromethane

>>1087889
There's some toluene, too.
>Google nitromethane prices
>needs now permit from cops, because muh terrorist hysteria

>>1087418
Most manufacturers use a more eco friendly form of loctite called iron oxide.

Diy should also be aware of ceramic thread locker. Works just as did as red loctite, however the bond won't break until something like 1000 degrees.

It's mostly used for high heat applications, but regular water will break the bond.

I've used red on casters for two purposes. One is to keep threaded stem casters from unscrewing during use. The other was to keep the axel nut on the axel rod during use.

>>1087776
Id be pissed too. When I was doign my brakes, there is this metal plate that goes over a part of the line, it wouldnt unbolt, wound up breaking both bolts off in their hole an dcouldnt get a screw extractor to dit into them.. plate isnt going back on.

>>1087994
hehe

Loctite stripped thread repair kit works for small and medium fasteners. I'd use it on a knife but I'd try red first since I always have red gel and liquid handy.

Quantity matters. I use Red constantly on hardware I expect to remove, have done so for decades, and have no problems. Don't forget Loctite is a barrier to moisture and corrosion.

>>1087994
Kek'd