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I have a issue that when i have looked online a see no answers

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Thread replies: 9
Thread images: 2

File: K-Tip drill.webm (3MB, 720x405px) Image search: [Google]
K-Tip drill.webm
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I have a issue that when i have looked online a see no answers too.

So. I have a very very minor moisture issue in one corner of my finished basement.

The water in the ground is wicking into (or up) my block wall and the very bottom block gets a moist spot or 2 and water slowly wicks in and has over the course of a few years caused damage.

We dident notice until we took down the wall to remodel and saw it.

The first thing i did was reroute my downspounts so everything goes to the front of the house (i live on a sloped property so it will drain away at that point).

After that i ground out a few minor cracks because at that point why not. and patched them back in.

now everything i have seen online is for more extreme situations like flooding and the like.

Honestly with reouting my gutters that dumped water a few feet from the wall (i know i should have done that when i bought the house) that that will be enough but i was wanting to do something a little extra without going the expensive route of diging my foundation wall out.

Would putting some tyvek on the wall to force potential moisture down to the floor, and then installing some open vents on the drywall when i put it back up and maybe a fan or 2 to get some airflow be enough to dry out the moisture?

Its such a low amount of moisture that gets in that i would think that would work. and combined with mold / mildew restiant paint on the wall, mold / mildew rated dry wall that i would not have to worry.

But i also know this could be early signs of a much more serious problem. My knowldge is very limmited on the foundations of houses and more in how to finish the insides and make it all purdy.
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>>1083046
>But i also know this could be early signs of a much more serious problem
Of course it is, ya dingus!

If moisture's seeping from the ground & into the wall, that means your foundation has a crack & there's shit drainage around your house. You'd have to dig a deep trench at the edge of the foundation, then seal the crack & ensure the trench can drain properly, before burying it up again.
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>>1083046
your webm is cringe, get some fucking lube on that shit man.
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>>1083053

I priced that out and to get it done decently is 10 grand or more.

Since we are not sure we are gonna be living in this house for more then another 2 or 3 years and that is not something that will add value im not going to do it.

Likely the same reasoning the people i bought the house from had which is why i am having this problem now. but thats life.

I am looking at a nice hunk of land and if it works out i will be building my own house and have all the proper drainage and waterproffing done. But doing it to this house would just be paying to fix someone else's problem at this point.
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>>1083063
Thats not an HSS drill, that drill has a carbide insert which can be used without coolant as long as you don't feed it like crazy, however its never a bad idea especially since those inserts can be a few hundred dollars each.
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>>1083193

Yup.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcVKmVehqcQ
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>>1083063
no lube needed, those chips are not the right color.

lube only decreases the friction of the chip sliding on the tooling, most of the heat generated is not from the friction, but the action of bending the waste material its being removed.

>>1083046
how old is your house? if its over 50 years old it might not have anything to weep away the water from the foundation, if its newer, its weeping system might be plugged (if it has one).

my advice, hire a professional who has insurance and guarantees their work.

sure you could dig along the perimeter of your foundation and install/replace/repair a weeping system and waterproof your foundation with tar and fiberglass mat. you could also just dig into the floor at that point inside your basement and install a sump pump and just make a bulk head to hide it but make it so you can still access the pump.

water is a powerful force, if not done properly it can cause your foundation to shift and it would cost a lot more to have it fixed. its cheaper to hire a pro now.

i'm not a pro by any means, but i know just blocking it's path would cause major damage over time. it has to be redirected. you've already directed some by rerouting your gutters. it might be enough to make the difference, you might have to redirect more water away from it.

if you go the tyvek route, install a sump pump.

i know mold can be a problem, but the amount of mold needed to become a health risk for the average person is a lot, 10's of square feet coverage. its like how lead is bad, so no more leaded wick candles. but you would have to have 400 leaded wick candles going in a 10x10x10 foot room before the lead levels in the air finally meet the unsafe levels the EPA says is health risk.

>>1083177
if your going to sell it, don't hide it when you do. a 10 grand repair doesn't mean 10 grand off the selling price. plus they can't come back on you for hiding a problem.

give that spot some ventilation, and get a decent dehumidifier.
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>>1083053
Basically this.
You need a trench and a French drain.
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File: ingersoll4.webm (1MB, 720x404px) Image search: [Google]
ingersoll4.webm
1MB, 720x404px
>>1083063
>>1083193
>>1083250
Coolant is less often used in steel milling as it will cause cracks in the carbide, although it is not uncommon as it provides good chip evacuation.
It is dependant on the insert substrate wether it cracks with coolant or not.
For milling stainless steel it is in most cases required because of work hardening.

As a machinist this discussion triggers me everytime.
Thread posts: 9
Thread images: 2


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