Hey diy, asked O but didn't get a ton of info. My '10

It's got 185k miles on it, but it still drives like a champ. Only noticed the misfire at idle, but I regularly drive over 200 miles a day, and can't take the risk of a total breakdown. I'd prefer not to get a newer escape because I think the body style is cheap, and less functional. Not to mention anything with decent milage is pretty expensive still. First major problem with this car, and I love it to death.

>>1079315
Go to the automotive board lovely

If it was mine I would just drive it till she blows, then toss in a $200 junk yard motor. Might run another 50,000 miles with low compression.
Do these have head gasket issues?

Time to sell it before it's noticeable.

It's doable to fix but it would cost maybe 5-8k just for the parts unless you grab one from the junkyard in which case it might be 500-1k.

>>1079315
Its going to just be like any other engine swap.

Make sure its an identical engine.
Take you time and understand what you are removing and mark it, write it down, or take pictures.

Just disconnect everything that is physically holding it in, un bolt the mounts, cherry picker it out, reconnect everything and if you did everything right youll be golden.

>>1079329
Its not a miata

>>1079359
It's already noticeable at idle, unfortunately. Found a junkyard one with 60k for $512. I can probably Jew them down to 450.
>>1079389
Thanks for the useful information, that will help.

Anyone know of maintenance I should do to the new engine before I swap it? Literally all this one took to hit 185k was regular oil and transmission fluid changes.

>>1079398
>Literally all this one took to hit 185k was regular oil and transmission fluid changes.

Im not sure I would be bragging about an engine only hitting 185k miles.

>>1079398
if its anything like the ford ranger 2.5l, throw a new rear main seal in it while its out

>>1079413
It's probably some kind of duratech focus Mazda sort of thing.
Spark plugs, check the belts, maybe a timing belt if it uses one. Water pump if you feel like it.

>>1079411
Owned it since new, and there have been lots of issues with these giving out totally around 100k-150k locally, and parts needing replacement before that. I haven't had to replace anything. So, I'm happy it lasted this long, and I haven't been putting money into an alternator here, a water pump there, etc.

>>1079413
>>1079416
Thanks, I'll look into that

>>1079315
I want to know how you concluded its a piston ring? Did you open the engine an look?. Or did some retard who swears they know cars tell you its the ring? (and fyi there is at least 3 piston rings)

If its just the piston or a fucked ring. Pretty damn easy to change/fix. All you need would be the gasket set and ring.

Now you say it miss fires?

Then thats telling me how ever you came up with the piston ring thing is utter bs.

Its probaby an exhaust valve thats not seating or warped or chipped. Either way.. EASIEST THING TO FIX. new valve, gasket set for when u take the top off, some valve lapping compound. Bam. Ezpz.

>>1079749
Piston ring was shops best guess after the compression test. Good cylinders got 170-172 psi bad one got 111. Adding tbsp of oil in bumped it up to about 155 psi.

How would I check the exhaust valve? Assume I'm retarded, but can turn a wrench.

Also, no idea what valve lapping compound is. I'll Google it, but if it's got another name let me know.

>>1079315
I held together a failing 305 with some of that "Restore" stuff. It did work, but then again I wasn't going to put any more effort into fixing a rustbucket. Get yourself a short-block and swap it out yourself. Not difficult but helps if you have some skill or enough beer to bribe a friend that does.

>hey guys CK didnt help me I broke a pan how do I replace my stove

File: 41wiVm4eaVL._SY300_.jpg (11KB, 300x300px) Image search: [Google]

11KB, 300x300px

>>1079951
before doing anything you can't undo, spend $16 on 2 bottles of Seafoam.

pull the plug on the bad cylinder and pour a couple tablespoons into the cylinder. let it sit for an hour. while you're waiting, take the remainder and put some in the oil filler and the rest in the gas tank. after waiting, crank the engine a few times (with the spark plug out) to clear out the cylinder, and then reassemble.

next, have the other bottle drip into an intake vacuum line (to clean the backside of the intake valves). keep that engine at 1000 rpm for 20-30 minutes while it all drips in.

then go back and check the compression. this will rule out anything gumming up the valves or rings.

File: smug vega.png (264KB, 748x379px) Image search: [Google]

264KB, 748x379px

>>1079391

>>1080203
>mfw he never even asked /o/

>>1079315
Last engine swap I did on a Ford was a Mk1 Escort about a billion years ago... but anyway.
If you want to keep the original engine then you're going to need to pop it out with an engine crane and open it up. So make sure you've got the room to store the bits and time to do that + have a torque wrench, micrometer and the manufacturers service manual which will help you with all the torque settings on various components.

Once its open, you should have a better idea of what its got going on in there.
Generally if you're going to replace pistons, do them all and make sure the sleeves inside the block aren't scored from excessive movement or a smashed up ring rubbing up one side.
The other things you're going to need are gaskets for the head, oil pan and possibly the rear-main seal.
I'd also check your bearings in the bottom end, they may be ok but its up to you if you think replacing them now is worth the trouble and expense.

With replacement engines- can be hit/miss with those, make sure you get one that also has had compression testing done

>>1079951
Idk how easy ur engine is in its home or how tightly its squeezed in there. But ive always remove the headers. Used a cheap tiny led flash light get the engine in a dark place (doing it at night is good) remove the spark plug and look down into the spark plug hole with ur eye or one of those butt camera doodads. And flash the light into the exhaust port of the expected cylinder. Manually turn ur engine by hand when your exhaust valve it closed ur piston should be at top dead center. (piston highest towards the sparkplug hole) both intake and exhaust valves are closed here. If you see ANY light coming from the exhaust valve.

Then its either bent, warped, or chipped, or have lots of carbon build up under the valve seat.

Valve lapping compound is normally blue grease looking stuff with gritty stuff inside it.

Sorry if this reads like a retard wrote it. Im on mobile and my keyboard sucks on my phone. Tried to make it short and sweet. But if you got more questions or need something explained just ask.

>>1079359
>It's doable to fix but it would cost maybe 5-8k just for the parts

i find this hard to believe.

Perform Leak-Down test, Not compression test

>>1080387
Sweet jesus I lol'd on "butt camera doodads"

Fuck that is the best way to describe those cameras.

>>1080376
My thread is still up on /O/ it's a picture of a piston.

I will try the sea foam trick when I get back home Friday. Seems easy enough I won't cause serious damage if I try it.

I'm not totally sure I have any vacuum lines for the sea foam to drip into. All I've got is air intake, Ac lines, coolant lines, and electrical. Maybe I'm retarded. I know slightly more than the average rock when it comes to this stuff, but I'm confident that I can do it with sufficient instruction or at least a general idea of what I'm looking for.

>>1080418

There may be a vacuum line diagram under your hood. If not, remember that your power brakes run on vacuum, so you can drip it in that line.

>>1080418
Sorry bud all I see are miatas, stanced cars and turbos.

>>1079330
bingo.

go pull an engine at a junkyard and throw it in. but a 6 year old engine blowing a piston ring? how do you know its that. maybe a fucked up lifter or valve. did a shop diagnose it?