NICKEL FREE RIVETS

What's wrong with a brass eyelet rivet?

>>1064122
>buy 1/4 in aluminum rod
>buy two washers with 1/4 in inner dia.
>peen small section of rod w/ two washers in between desired material.
Congratulations, you have now riveted something together.

>>1064122
>stainless steel, aluminum,
I bought aluminum rivets to replace the transom in my aluminum boat.
Aluminum rivets in various sizes are readily available.

>>1064157
>peen small section of rod
Might not be smooth enough for opie's need to be 'smooth'.

>>1064162
Better, if you can put the pre-finished end on the inside and peen the outside. Still might rough up the iside surface against an anvil.

Consider aluminum 'Chicago screws'. Put the smooth side inside and the screw head on the outside.

>>1064122
>for someone

Yeah, right. Your mistress probably told you to go out and get one for yourself.

>>1064122
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-100-Metal-3mm-x-5-5mm-Long-Rivets-For-Embellishing-Leather-fits-2mm-Hole-/191333106777?var=&hash=item2c8c578459:m:mkQnC8b9WdhfwHGOo0z5gEQ

>>1064213
Confirmed for never making/using rivets. OP could use a file and sandpaper to make any rivet material he used as smooth as he needs, though in my experience they are plenty smooth just from the peening.

Your observation as to his mistress telling him what to do is dead nuts on though.

>>1064213
>peen the outside
I didn't peen mine. I made a rivet setter out of an air chisel.
I made a depression in a heavy piece of bar stock for the anvil and cut off one of the chisel tool bits and made a depression in the flat cut for the hammer.
Both depressions were started with drill points and smoothed to a nice finish with a diamond dremel grinding bit of the proper size.
I chose the domed look for mine to match the factory style but could have made the anvil and hammer with any profile I wanted.

>insert rivet through holes in parts
>hold anvil against head of rivet
>hold hammer against end of rivet
>pull trigger
BBRRRRAAAAATTTTTTTTTTTT
>finished with that rivet
>move to next hole - repeat

>>1064122
google "stainless steel double cap rivets" or "brass plated double cap rivets" or "aluminum double cap rivets"

like 30 sites selling them for $0.08 each

OP here. Thank you for the suggestions like >>1064157 but I'm pretty sure I need double cap/rapid rivets--I'm not very skilled and only have very basic tools available, so I'm not confident I could do it with other types and file it smooth enough without scuffing and wrecking the material that the rivets are holding together.

>>1064155
I'm not looking for brass because it's the wrong color. Otherwise I'd have no problem with using it.

>>1064213
>Chicago screws
I looked into those and although it seems like it'd work, I don't want the screw-head pattern on the inside (uncomfortable) or on the outside (I'd like the rivets to appear smooth on the outside of the collar as well)

>Yeah, right. Your mistress probably told you to go out and get one for yourself.
All right, yeah, yeah. You got me. Master though, not Mistress. We're designing a collar together so I'm trying to find materials that work for what we're looking to build.

>>1064456
Already did this before making the thread. Maybe I'm blind or something, but I couldn't find any aluminum double cap rivets. Link me?

>>1064456
Oh also, I can't use steel. Correct me if I'm wrong but steel contains nickel, right? I'm not sure just how sensitive I'll be to it with prolonged wear, so I'd rather just use something else to be safe

>>1064632
Why don't you just electro plate it? You only need a 9 volt battery and a small silver wire.

>>1064634
Electro plate?

OP here. I am considering just getting some steel nickel plated rivets and some steel black oxide coated rivets, then using the black ones for the back half (that would contact the skin) and the nickel plated ones for the front half. This way the silver color is visible on the collar, but no nickel contacts the skin.

I've not dealt with black oxide coatings before though. Are they durable? Or are they just going to chip over time?

>>1064122
>>1064650
idk about sourcing nickle-free rivets (SURELY you can get aluminum ones or even just plastic ones painted to be shiny) but you can easily get around the need for them to be comfy or hypo-allergenic by adding a second layer of fabric underneath the leather.

It's common for fetish items to actually use long fur for this. It's both comfy and stylish.

In fact, if you do this, you could probably coat the rivets in something clear and they'd be completely protected from touch, making it safe to wear for whoever's got this allergy.

inb4 furry, the fur goes on the inside part.

File: 104898.363441.jpg (47KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]

47KB, 1000x667px

>>1064631
Might i suggest using brass and reddish brown leather instead?

OP here. Still haven't been able to find aluminum double cap rivets, but if black oxide coating is sufficiently durable and won't chip, I think I will use those ones for the rivet backings (and use the shiny nickel ones for the front half of the rivets, where they are visible from the outside, but don't come in contact with the skin.)

As for a lining, not too much a fan of the fuzzy/furry linings for prolonged wear because they wear down quickly, get dirty, and are very hot in the summer.

We're also not using leather, we're using beta biothane, which is a PVC coated webbing, a leather alternative. The appeal to this is that it's very durable, waterproof, and easily cleaned (and will not absorb oils/dirt or crack over time.) I could potentially add a lining to this, but depending on the construction that could be three layers of material, which will be unnecessarily bulky I think. The biothane material is soft so if I can find rivets that are soft/smooth enough and nickel-free, I won't need a lining.

>>1064746
I do think that looks beautiful, and it's one of my favorite looks for a collar, but it's not what we're looking for. The collar we're building will specifically be blue and black, with silver colored hardware.

I just did a quick google search for silver rivets and found advertised nickle free rivets in hammer as well as Chicago style screws with no flat screwdriver heads... Not seeing issue here.

>>1064122

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/301826793677?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D145795696709_324272%2526itemid%253D301826793677%2526targetid%253D261118994563%2526rpc%253D0.10%2526rpc_upld_id%253D82598%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F301826793677%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9012405%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D672333784%2526adgroupid%253D29658622530%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-261118994563%2526gclid%253DCj0KEQjwg8i_BRCT9dHt5ZSGi90BEiQAItdjpDPc9hWyTaxvMGMQjuWzfzxzigkxlqr-U9JZgN-vpLMaArba8P8HAQ%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1104514681633&ul_noapp=true


If you want them silver paint them.

McMaster has something that might work:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivets/=8bazl64fbmituvwwhn

they are 18-8 which is similar to 304. Not the most hypoallergenic material (316 would be better) out there, but it has a good chance of being fine.

>>1064954
that fucking link...

put a drop of lacquer on them

https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/steel-double-cap-rivets

>>1064933
I haven't seen Chicago screw rivets with no screw pattern on them. If you can link me to them, I'd appreciate it, though I don't see how they would work without a screw head on one side to screw them in?

>>1064954
The back side of these are not a smooth surface, though I have seen plenty of brass rivets that are. However, I am not looking to paint them. Paint chips and/or rubs off. I need something that will maintain its quality over time and be able to stand up to rugged use, water, etc.

>>1064959
I'm not sure if the backings would be smooth enough?

As for the material, I've been ok with stainless steel on my skin in the past, but I haven't tested it for prolonged wear on more sensitive areas like the neck. I've gotten some really bad reactions from nickel rivets on my neck.

>>1065013
I'd rather not have to be vigilant about reapplying lacquer or varnish...any kind of permanent finish you could suggest?

>>1065017
I'm considering using these (buying both nickel plate and black plate rivets, and just using the black plate halves for the inside of the collar where it comes in contact with skin, and the nickel plate halves for the front of the collar.) I sent an email to tandy asking what the black coating is made of, and also asking what's in the antique "nickel free" plating. If they can confirm it's actually nickel free material, this would work

>>1065048
Whatever you do, post the build.

>>1065065
Sure thing! It might be after this thread 404s though. We still need to finalize the design and gather the funding to buy the materials to build it

>>1065078
Cant imagine it would cost that much more than $30 or so.

>>1065048
>I'm not sure if the backings would be smooth enough?

You hammer it smooth and then file/polish the back.


>As for the material, I've been ok with stainless steel on my skin in the past, but I haven't tested it for prolonged wear on more sensitive areas like the neck. I've gotten some really bad reactions from nickel rivets on my neck.
It should be fine. 303 would be bad though.

>>1065078
This is /diy/, you have more than a day before it 404s on this slow ass board.

>>1065081
I'm estimating the cost at about $70, actually--each roll of biothane is about $25, and we'd need two of them, plus hardware and shipping costs. That said, it's certainly not that expensive but we don't have $70 to spare at the moment

If the thread 404s before then, I can always make another thread I guess

>>1065112
>file/polish the back
I'm not confident in being able to file it without scuffing the material it's holding together. Thanks for the advice about the stainless steel types though

File: IMG_2601.jpg (544KB, 1632x1224px)

544KB, 1632x1224px

>>1065625
>biothane
leather will work just fine for something like this and leather is pretty cheap.
I used latigo leather for my goggles which i put together 5 years ago to use daily during harsh summers and near blizzard climates the the leather is as soft as the day i got it.
Latigo leather is also water resistant and durable.
Also you cant beat the smell and feel of leather.

>>1065644
I do like leather. Dat smell and feel. And it's certainly really fun to work with.

However, I've had leather collars before and even with proper care, the linings eventually wear out and I've found it happens sooner than I'd like. Also, I have sensitive skin (eczema) so the porous nature of leather (being able to build up and trap oils, dirt, etc.) has caused problems for me in the past, even with regular cleaning/conditioning of the leather. So that's why we're looking into making it with biothane.

As for cost, from my calculations making it from leather actually ends up being more expensive. If we were making it with leather we'd want to finish and dye it ourselves. Buying veg-tanned straps in the right size on its own is comparable in cost to buying the rolls of biothane, but including buying the tools I don't have in order to work on it, plus the dye, finishes, etc., it ends up being more expensive. It's more cost-efficient to buy larger pieces of hide and cutting what I need from it rather than straps, (though obviously this is a larger cost overall); if I were to make the collar from leather I'd prefer to buy a larger section of hide that since I do other leathercrafting stuff as well, so I'd end up using the excess material for something.

That said, cost isn't really my issue to begin with. There's no rush, so I don't mind having to save up extra cash in order for us to make the collar we want.

Neat goggles, by the way!

>>1065664
Id suggest at least making it with two layers like in the OP image and having the outer layer be leather because biothane just doesnt look as good as real leather.

>>1065674
The design does have two layers in it. Thank you for the suggestion; definitely something to consider at least

Just electroplate brass ones yourself.

>>1065664
>collar WE want
riiiiight~

>>1065625
Do it before you rivet it, just take some fine sand paper to the back rivets.

>>1067726
Doesn't the back spread out after you hammer it down?