I've built a few cryptocurrency mining rigs and I keep tripping

>>1050347
>why would electricians not use small gauge (40+ amp rating) wire on all house wiring by default?
It's more expensive and most people don't need it

>>1050347
>why would electricians not use small gauge (40+ amp rating) wire on all house wiring by default?

Go to or call a local supplier of wire.
Check the price of #8 wire
Check the price of #14 wire

>>1050347
>how hard is it to change out the wiring by myself?
If you didn't know the answer to 1. then 2. is beyond your capabilities.

>>1050347
Honestly, you don't know enough about electrical work to tackle this job yourself.
Pulling 15 amps on a 15 amp circuit will usually trip the breaker after a few minutes. Home circuits are designed for 80% of rated capacity constant loads.

1.) Cost is the deciding factor. Higher ampacity wire costs more upfront.

2.)If you gotta ask...

>>1050347
you cannot be making money on this.
or, more likely, youre costing whoevers actually paying the bill serious cash.
write down exactly what you are trying to run, and how much it consumes - thats called A Plan, #1.
you still losing money tho, you just want lose more, quicker.

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>>1050351
>Go to or call a local supplier of wire.
>Check the price of #8 wire
>Check the price of #14 wire

>>1050358
Typically a breaker curve starts at 1.6x the rated current. You should be able to pull 24A from a 15A breaker, just don't expect it to last very long.

its not JUSt about cost you mongloids, its about CODE. residential code does NOT require 20 amp circuits for lighting and receptacles unless they are for appliances like your kitchen receptacles SHOULD all be 20 amp circuits because your microwave and toaster oven will need more current than your fucking TV set will.

1. Larger diameter wire costs more and is harder to pull and takes up for fill space.

2. If the wiring is all exposed, which is isn't, pretty easy.

>>1050383
Code doesn't prevent you from installing larger gauge wire. The issue is that standard receptacles are only rated for 20amp. So they do not easily accept 8 gauge wire.

>>1050383

Obviously you don't know what the code is or what is for or how it actually comes into play.

Thanks for your interesting opinion though!

>>1050383
Damn you're retarded.

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>>1050446
>>1050455
>>1050459

>>1050347

After helping to shit all over this thread I'll help boil it down.

1) it costs more, its not required, almost no one will ever use it, it also seriously restricts common availability of lots of legally sized odds and ends.

Also the customer never wants to pay for it.

2) There are alot of options for you now, none of them are cheap, easy, legal, and safe. You basically only get to pick 2 things from that list.

You definately want to talk to a professional.

Something you might want to consider is having a 220v outlet put in next to your breaker box for cheap. It will run your power supplies at almost half amperage on their power supply cables but still cost the same overall.

>>1050383
>its not JUSt about cost you mongloids, its about CODE.
Actually, it *is* about cost. Because of cost, installers would use the cheapest wiring available and call it a day. So we set code to set the bare minimum for safety.

>>1050383
It's about what the client wants.
Most people will not want to pay more for amperage they don't intend to use.
All contractors will gladly go above and beyond code if the client pays them to do so.

>>1050380
the trip curve for most breakers exponentially approaches 1x as time increases.

also I didn't pull the 80% load out of a hat:
http://ecmweb.com/content/sizing-continuously-loaded-conductors-made-simple

>The result was to remove the 125% allowance for continuous loading for the conductor and leave it in place for the overcurrent device. There was a solid technical basis for that distinction, which remained unchanged in the 1993 NEC. In general, overcurrent protective devices will malfunction if subjected to more than 80% of their rating for continuous periods of time (note that 125% is simply the reciprocal of 80%). The UL Electrical Construction Materials Directory (the "Green Book") contains the following rule under the product category "Circuit Breakers, Molded Case, and Circuit Breaker enclosures":

>Unless otherwise marked, circuit breakers should not be loaded to exceed 80 percent of their current rating, where in normal operation the load will continue for 3 hours or more.

>>1050347
> why?
Money

>how hard is it?
Not hard.

Just run an extension cord from another room/circuit and plug half of your shit into that

>inb4 op's rpi cluster burns the house down

>>1050347
OP where are you located? The latest Canadian code allows 20A on 14AWG. Not sure about the NEC but the CEC is usually pretty closely aligned with it so I would not be surprised if 20A on 14AWG was allowed in the states as well. You would need to change your breaker to a 20A and your receptacle too.

Have you opened a receptacle to confirm the size of the wiring?

>>1050367
This is what I was thinking.
If he's popping 15 amp breakers he spending more money on electricity than that .00007 btc he mined on it.

There are calculators to find out if you're making money. I checked and even with free power, it takes up to a year to break even on hardware costs with mid tier gear. ($1000-2000 miners)

Add in power costs and you never break even due to the increasing complexity of bitcoin algorithms.

(And some other bullshit, but I just read enough to get the general idea).

Strongly suggest selling your gear to a hipster while you can.

>>1050825
>The latest Canadian code allows 20A on 14AWG.
No it doesn't, get out

>>1050347
To blow a 15A breaker, you're using at least 1650 watts

That's nearly 40KWH/day

With the cheapest possible electricity that is at least $5/day

Are you making more than $5/day in crypto?

No?

Then don't fucking do it

>>1050347

> how hard is it

DO NOT WORK ON MAINS if you have to ask

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>awg
please stop using this bullshit unit

>inb4 yuropoor

Something you can do that I am surprised no one has suggested is adding a new circuit. Buy some 12/3 Romex and a double pole 20A breaker that works for your panel. Make sure you don't accidentally get a piggyback breaker by mistake. Go to where your station is and cut an add-a-box in. Take your brand new plug and look between the brass (hot) screws-you will see a little tab. Use needle nose pliers and break that tab on that side only. After you run the wire following all codes attach the black wire to one brass screw, the red wire to the other screw, and the white (neutral) to the silver screw. Bare ground to the green screw. Alternatively you can cut in a 2 gang and have one plug being fed off the black and one being fed off the red without breaking any tabs. That would give you 40 Amps of power in addition to the 15 A circuit you are already using. What you are doing does not sound profitable though.

>>1051950
that will definitely not give you 40 amps of power.
each phase will draw 20 amps and the total amperage applied will be 20.

>>1050347

1: Price difference aside, #8 will not even fit in a lot of 15 amp devices. And guys like you, that are cheap as fuck and want to rewire their own home without any electrical knowledge, don't want to pay for that shit up front.

2: extremely. And dangerous since you obviously don't know the first thing about not setting your house on fire with faulty electrical work. Plus, you have to take your walls apart, so that means re-insulating them and replacing drywall and painting it all at the end. It's a nightmare.

I have a solution for you, but I don't like you so I'm not going to tell you what it is because I am an electrician and people like you piss me off.

>>1050347
>how hard is it to change out the wiring by myself?

That really depends on how it is routed.

There is nothing preventing you from running different wire yourself.

Ignore the faggots telling you "LOL IF U HAV TO ASK, U CAN'T DO IT!". Nobody ever learned anything without asking questions.

Just make sure to turn off the breaker, or use insulated tools and prevent touching the hot wire (Assuming you have split-phase/are in America).

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>>1051447
no u get out.

>>1053542
Except that doesn't account for derating for wires run in the same channel unless OP plans to run the wire separate. It also assumes that the wire is rated for 75C which is often not true for older wiring. Lastly it assumes that it will be constantly below 30C in OP's walls.

Continuous duty applications are also to be rated at 125% of their listed wattage.

However I do not work in Canada, so who knows what you crazy people have for code.

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>>1053591
>doesn't account for derating
Well, actually that's the table for up to 3 conductors in a cable or raceway. Only if you have more than 3 current carrying conductors do you need to apply additional derating factors.

>75C which is often not true for older wiring
Yes, OP should check what the temperature rating on his insulation is but the vast majority of insulation is either 75C or 90C.

>Lastly it assumes that it will be constantly below 30C in OP's walls.
That's a safe assumption.

We apparently do continuous duty a bit different too: here you don't have to increase things by 25%. Instead you start at 100% and derate things if the breaker is not rated for 100% duty.

>>1050347
Fatter wire is more expensive. It is very difficult to swap out the wiring, as it requires openong the walls, both to remove old wiring,and to emplace the new.

A less expensive option would be to simply add an additional circuit, or even an additional breaker box, with an aceptable load rating for which you could run wire in conduit to load, in a garage, or external shed, without reconstructing your home

>>1053305
>
I have a solution for you, but I don't like you so I'm not going to tell you what it is because I am an electrician and people like you piss me off.

lol. I do like you, though. Thanks for your input.

>>1053305
I'm assuming stop running the cluster because the exchange rate for the currency vs wattage per hour doesn't match up?

>>1053542
You missed rule 14-104(2)(a):

"...the rating of overcurrent protection shall not exceed 15 A for No. 14 AWG copper conductors"

Go back to whatever the fuck you do, cuz it ain't building houses, bud.

Why do you US guys use such a flawed size chart? what size is even #4? nobody would know...

Use the actual size size of the cable?... Metric system is so much more understandable and streamlined.

>>1050370
Try state electric if your in the US, a lot cheaper than the brick and mortar stores.

>>1056620
>Why do you US guys use such a flawed size chart?
You don't have to use it.
Why is it even of concern to you?
>stop liking what I don't like

>>1056620
> my way is better than your way
> my country is better than your country
> my dad can whip your dad

This is why children shouldn't be allowed to post here.

>>1056643
I am questioning why you guys use such a vague chart..

Aaaand the greentext edgelords has returned...

>>1056647
Oooh. Such a good comeback.. Did you copy paste that? Try and give an explanation to why you guys use your "superior" system for cabels...

What is 1AWG? is it half an american foot? who the fuck knows.
Next time try and do a comeback with something a bit more relevant to the subject
Kid.

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>>1056651
The only claim for superiority was yours.
>muh superior metric system

In the USA we seem to be able to handle both.
>being stuck with one system

>>1056654
If you seem to be able to handle both systems why would you need that old and outdated imperial shit anyways?

Try and give an explanation as to why you use it rather then try and act as manchild

>>1056658
we like it - we understand it - we never think about you when we measure anything
mostly, we never think about you
>>1056643
>>stop liking what I don't like

>>1056659
Kid confirmed