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Hi DIYers, I'm currently building an extruder, and it's

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Hi DIYers, I'm currently building an extruder, and it's output has to be constant, as any speed fluctuations would cause defects to the output.
What I need help with is an idea of motor/gearbox to use for this, I've thought of the motors used in cars for the windows and seats, but those are weak as I tested them and with my hands I was able to slow them down.
Food mixer and food processor motors are also too weak, and a car's starter motor isn't built to work for long periods of time, and would require a transformer that would be a pain in the ass to get/ would be too expensive.
The best idea I've come up with so far is to use the motor of a washing machine, but for that I'd need a good gearbox, as what I need is between 50 to 200 RPM and these motors supply a lot more (1000-1500RPM).
Any ideas of a better electric motor that I can get relatively cheaply or a gearbox to use with the washing machine motor?
Thank you!
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>>1046066
>used in cars for the windows and seats
did you try the windshield wiper motors? those have high torque and high gear reduction
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>>1046069
Yes, but they also have slower RPM, but their gearbox might be something to look into, thanks
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>>1046066
I bought a treadmill for $75.

I don't know what you have access to, but treadmills are ez pezy.

Also, if you find a treadmill with an incline motor that would be high torque I think.
>>
surplussales.com/Motors/Motors-1.html
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>>1046066
extruders I've seen (admittedly, pretty small ones--but both were commercial plastic extruders) both used a hydraulic ram to push material through a die

if you didn't want to bother with hydraulics then you could use a linear actuator, but it's not going to last as long as a hydraulic setup would

what exactly does this motor need to turn now?

also what exactly are you trying to extrude here?
>>
>>1046066
Search your local Craig's List for used power tool motors. Not like out of a hand drill, like out of like a drill press or a lathe. Motors from 1/4th HP up to 1 HP show up in my area all the time. Motors with about 1750 RPM are very common and they use standard shaft diameters, so getting pulleys for them are super easy. A two pulley system, which would cost about $20 new, will get you down to about 100-200 RPM.
>>
>>1046066
Just what type of extruder are you building? Is this for a filament type 3d printer? If yes a stepper motor will do.
>>
CVT that gears itself to output a set rpm regardless of engine input rpm.
>>
>>1046066
Well the washing machine motor has higher rpm but you can gear it down wich means higher torque and less fluctuating speeds
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>>1046112
I might take a look at that although they will probably be hard to find in my area
>>1046113
That would be awesome if I lived in the US and I could get that in 2 days or so :/
>>1046120
Extruders with hidraulic rams (or linear actuators) were the first to be invented and still widely used today, but they lack the continuity of a screw extruder. The motor needs to turn a screw with about 90mm length and 25mm diameter, I'm trying to reuse plastic for 3D printing.
>>1046131
Wouldn't be that similar to a washing machine's motor? Either way I took a look and the few avaliable power tools relatively nearby are pretty expensive. The pulley idea is great though, I will look into that!
>>1046143
Yes, it is, but I'm using a larger screw than usual, and trying to make a high output one, so the stepper won't work too well.
>>1046239
That's a very interesting concept that I didn't know about yet, but if I want to change the speed for testing or adjusting the speed for the type of plastic being extruded I'd need to do it manually right? Or is there a way for a microcontroller to do it for me?
>>1046242
Yes, that was one of the options, I just wasn't sure how to gear it down, but the pulley idea might work better than what I had in mind (bike chain)

Thank you all!
>>
>>1046276
Micro controller reading engine rpm is all you need. Software in an output speed and turn everything on.

You'll have limits based on your max ratio.

PS, if you make the automatic cvt in your shop and it's of decent quality I'd imagine there's a market for it.
>>
>>1046792
What I need is a motor that can stay at the same speed with almost no oscillation when the load is applied, the motor control is supposed to be done with a micro controller.
>>
If you are making an extruder, I would recommend using a servo motor.
>>
>>1047048
That would be great, but where can I find one powerfull enough to turn a screw wit almost 1m and 25mm diameter and cheap, you know any appliance that uses them so that i can easily find one in the scrap yard? Preferably one that I can connect to the grid so that I don't have to find a good (AKA expensive) power supply to power it.
I've been trough machine scrap yards and haven't had luck, the best thing I found was a c.e.set, and if I can't find anything better I will have to reduce 10 000 RPM to ~200RPM, because if i controll the motor to rotate at ~200rpm it will have no torque.
>>
>>1047049
with*
>>
>>1047049
well if you need something to turn a 25mm dia rod/screw you need industrial sized motors. Thats going to be difficult to find in a junkyard since most motor are reused/recycled before they end in the junkyard. Maybe some servos from a CNC would do the trick. As for tying into the grid, you will probably need 2 or 3 phase power or a phase converter. From what I understand you need a reasonable amount torque at low RPM and thats kind of hard to do with single phase 220V.
>>
>>1047055
Maybe if I had a proper gearbox or as >>1046131 said a pulley system the single phase 220V motor would do the trick
>>
File: Mersen-TR20R-image.jpg (33KB, 600x471px) Image search: [Google]
Mersen-TR20R-image.jpg
33KB, 600x471px
>>1046066
Excuse me hijacking this thread but I believe this might be more suited to my question that other threads and I don't want to make one.

QUESTION:
I've a compressor that has a motor that consumes 18Amps I blew a few fuses that I used because I forgot to check it first and they were 15amps.
Will a 20amp fuse be good or do you think I should use a higher one?

I ask because a guy I know told me to get a 40amps fuse instead, but it seems to me like that would cause the motor and wiring to burn up if something shorts. I know the starting current is high at starting but wouldn't it being a timed delay fuse be exactly for that purpose, to allow a motor to star without blowing the fuse?
Any comments would be appreciated.
>>
>>1047985
If you have a 15 amp fuse that generally means your wires rated for 15 amps. You may cause damage to your wiring, your electrical outlets or even cause a fire if you replace the fuse with one with a higher rating. Don't do it.

Have a new outlet run from your main box that is rated for at least 20 amps.
>>
>>1048000
I was thinking that too because it also tripped the breaker when the fuse went out but I couldn't find it.
I'm gonna go find the circuit breaker first, find what amperage it's rated for and go from there.

Oh and one more thing that I forgot to mention in my previous post. The motor is 3phase, that doesn't mean I should divide the rated amperage between the 3 phases right? It consumes it from the 3 equally right?

I apologize if it seems obvious, and I should really know this already, but I don't remember.
>>
>>1048013
>The motor is 3phase
Each phase requires 18A for 1/3 of each time period.
If in the USA, you should use three 20A fuses.
>>
>>1048140
Thank you, bro/a.
>>
>>1047046

You almost certainly want huge reduction in gearing, so if you put an encoder on the electric motor before it hits the gearbox you should have plenty of precision to work with to keep the output RPM steady.
>>
>>1047049

>That would be great, but where can I find one powerfull enough to turn a screw wit almost 1m and 25mm diameter and cheap, you know any appliance that uses them so that i can easily find one in the scrap yard? Preferably one that I can connect to the grid so that I don't have to find a good (AKA expensive) power supply to power it.

A synchronous induction motor will be able to maintain a constant speed without a controller. But you can't vary the speed. It's synchronous with the mains frequency, easy to "control".

CVT is not a realistic option, so you need a DC motor if you want speed control and maintaining a speed with changing load will have to be done with closed loop control.

BTW is the screw 1m long or 90mm?
>>
Actually a proper mocha
>>
>>1048140
And if you are not, then it's 6A per phase.
>>
>>1046276

>I'm trying to reuse plastic for 3D printing.

ive worked on extruders for ever 10 years, ran virtually every form of plastic, extruded, injected and vacuum formed. i helped install a few on my weekends with my stepdad who was a electrical engineer.

i say all this because you need to know one fact: plastic recycling is a fucking meme. any form of plastic, whether its PE PA PTFE PVC ABS..... reclaim cannot be used in any product which is expected to look good or perform in a certain way. reclaim is filler for garbage bags and crap like erosion control sheets, nothing more, will never have strength or poses any traits it once did.

i know i just wasted a minuted typing this because you think your smarter than the 1000's of chemical engineers who've tried to reuse plastic over the years in an attempt to save their company and clients companies millions of dollars a year, so i will end this on this note:

fuck blow plugs, enjoy your giant pipe bomb
>>
>>1049655

I too have worked on almost every kind of plastic extruder in a text book over a bit under 10 years.

I was going to go off on some tangent about how your going to want to put your encoder on the load side of the mechanical drive because of all the slop your going to have.

Then I realized this guy said it all, you are in way over your head, and burst plugs are only the first and most obvious thing your going to need to not die/burn down the house.
Thread posts: 29
Thread images: 2


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