hello DIY, im looking for some advice i want to buy a drill

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reduced-shank drills will fit in a 13mm chuck, so there's no great benefit in buying the 16mm model UNLESS it's more powerful, slower-turning or has a morse taper spindle instead of a jacobs taper.

anything that can go less than 150rpm and has MT2 or MT3 spindle will be a damn fine metalworking drill.

>>1044972
>anything that can go less than 150rpm and has MT2 or MT3 spindle will be a damn fine metalworking drill.
Well, not anything. A lot of the cheaper drill presses out there can flex quite a bit. Make sure it's not a bottom of the barrel piece of shit before you buy it.

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>>1044967
The drill press to get depends on what you'll be doing.

What is the spindle-column distance? This determines how far from an edge you can drill.

What is the minimum RPM and motor power? This determines what size holes you can make in various materials. As the other anon mentioned, the chuck capacity itself doesn't matter much at that size.

What is the spindle travel? This determines how deep a hole you can drill.

What is the table height range? This determines how thick an object you can drill.

Alternately, post the most challenging thing you expect to be drilling, and we can tell you the specs to look for. For example, I wanted to make big holes in 300 stainless (one of the most difficult common materials to drill), so I got a 140RPM Morse-taper drill with a 9A motor. It is a damn fine metalworking drill, and it's overkill for most things. Depending on what you want to do, maybe both drill presses would work, or maybe neither are capable enough.

>>1044996
probably the thickest and heavy ill go for my projects would be 5mm plate

i check the specs on the drills and it has a 250w 1/3 hp motor, 50mm spindle travel and 3 speeds, 200rpm min, 2500 max rpm

>>1045005
>5mm plate
The thickness of what you're drilling doesn't matter much for the strain on the drill press. What matters is the hole diameter and alloy. 200RPM would be suitable for maybe an inch hole in mild steel on an industrial-grade drill press, but the small spindle travel and low motor power suggests very light/cheap construction. That might manage 1/4" in mild steel without much trouble, but I'd be reluctant to rely on it for more. For comparison, the drill here >>1044996
is rated for 3/4" in mild steel.

oh well, i guess ill have to make do then, theres nothing else thats good on the low end since all the companies around here sell almost the same shit. From there, you jump into big bucks territory for bigger drill presses that i dont have the money and space to get one

>>1045023
You might try Craigslist or garage/estate sales. Old industrial drills sometimes become available at reasonable prices. If you can find one, it would last a lifetime with better performance than most any consumer drill you'd get for any price. But finding one is the trick.

>>1045023
I picked up a used 15 inch, 1/2 HP drill press awhile back for $60. It is a floor model too. Not some tiny benchtop model. While its slowest speed is 460 RPM it was a woodworking model. They did sell a slow speed adaptor that could get its slowest speed down to 100 RPM. Making your own slow speed adaptor is also not a huge deal if you are already doing metalwork. It's basically a step pulley, a bit of shaft, a bushing, and some beefy ball bearings. The old drill presses were also mostly made of iron and steel, so flexing was not a problem.

What is your budget? If you are in the States post the local Craig's List and I will look over what's available used and give you some likely candidates. If you are somewhere else post the local equivalent of CL and I will have a go.

sorry guys, forgot to clarify that im a 3rd world fag, so craiglists, Ebay and garage sales are out of the equation, we dont get those around here,

>>1045032
the closest thing to craiglist would be mercadolibre.com.ar but they offer the same shit i see in local stores

>>1045005
with those specs it might actually be stalled by a 13mm bit in mild steel.

if you drill 6mm, 10mm, then 13mm in steps it'll work.

don't sweat it too hard. even one of those janky old pistol drill clamp stand presses is light years better than freehanding it.

>>1045036
I checked out that site and did find a few drill presses that might work for you. So, what's your budget? Also, please link the closest location to where you are at.

Do yourself a favor and get a floor model OP, I have a porter cable that I love.

Not OP, but somewhat related:

I bought a set of forstner bits. The largest sizes, 1.5-2", recommend a speed of 250 rpm.

The slowest speed my drill press can achieve is 600 rpm. What do? Can I just run them at 600 and take really gentle and intermittent cuts with the press?

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>>1044967

Don't buy based on chuck size. You can change them anyway. I wouldn't buy one new either. You can get bargains second hand.

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>>1045163
I got the one in the photo as part of a deal with a band saw. Worked out to around the £100 mark what I paid for it and it hadn't even been assembled from new.

>>1045158

You'll struggle to find any drill press that runs slower than RPM. The only thing you might get to run that slow with considerable torque is a mill or 'engineers' pillar drill, which isn't the same. I run mine at around 790 rpm without issue.

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>>1045158
rig up more and/or bigger reduction pulleys.

you could salvage the hugeass pulley and long belt from a front-loading clothes washer

>>1045158
You build a slow speed adaptor like I said in >>1045032. >>1045167 Has a picture of what one can look like, though it's a bit ridiculous looking. You might also be able to buy one if the maker of your drill press isn't some shit Chinese importer.

>>1045101
Around 3k pesos its my budget, most of the sellers of that site are in Buenos Aires...im 900km south of there

>>1044967
>mm

>>1045259
Well, I can't find that location on the website as I don't speak Spanish. I guess just search for 'taladro de banco' in the area you are looking for.

>>1045158
The main problem with running bits too fast is overheating, which can over-temper the cutting edges, which leads to excessive wear. It's not as big an issue in wood as in metal, and exceeding the recommendations by a small factor shouldn't be a problem. However, something to keep in mind is that forstner bits are fairly heavy, and can retain a lot of heat. This means that the bit will act as a heat sink on the first hole and reduce overheating issues, but the heat will build up if you drill multiple holes. If it feels too hot to handle, I'd let it cool down or spray it with water before drilling the next hole.

>>1045342
yes, i know, i have searched already and like a said before, beyond those 13 and 16mm, theres big buck territory dat i cant afford

>>1045424
i may have to do that since i cant afford anything more big than that, the price gap between what i can get and good quality, are too big for me

>>1045542
If you can't afford the right tool, getting the wrong tool isn't really going to do you much good. Save up for a few more months and buy the right tool.