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Goal: Power a PC with a hot swappable battery, i.e., disconn

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Thread replies: 18
Thread images: 4

File: scheme.png (10KB, 472x282px) Image search: [Google]
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Goal: Power a PC with a hot swappable battery, i.e., disconnect a battery and connect a replacement without any system downtime.

Scheme: Pic related.

PSU: HDPLEX 250W, Input 16V-24V DC
Charge regulator: Something like https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection/dp/B00JKDZVRU, but rated for 12A.


I want to state that I don't know WTF I'm doing. I don't know what the /diy/ board culture is, but I assume it's like the rest of 4chan and filled to the brim with assholes (or not, since you fucks probably have a slow moving board). Please feel free to roast my anus and tell me how stupid I am.
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>>1037383
You don't need a "cr", just put some diode on it.

>I want to state that I don't know WTF I'm doing. I don't know what the /diy/ board culture is, but I assume it's like the rest of 4chan and filled to the brim with assholes (or not, since you fucks probably have a slow moving board). Please feel free to roast my anus and tell me how stupid I am.

You must be misunderstanding, we are not gay here and we will not engage with sadistic butt penetration with you, you should go to other boards for this, otherwise keep it to yourself and never talk about it again.
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>>1037390
>You don't need a "cr", just put some diode on it.
But won't B1 overcharge without it?

Also if the batteries are connected in series (?) through the charge controller, will the voltage the PSU receives be additive? (In my example, 44V.)
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>>1037396
That is not what I meant, I mean, you don't need B1 at all, just get two B2s, and then make a mechanical switch that will do a quick switch over, then you can just plug in one, use it till near dry, and the plug in the second one, switch over, take away the first one, done
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>>1037401
Hmm, so during the switch, when there's a split second of no contact with the leads from either battery, the PC won't die?
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>>1037406
Actually, better yet, keep an individual switch on each battery, then plug in a new one (off), switch it on and then switch the old one off quickly, so there is a split second of two battery operating at the same time (more like the old one getting charged for one second), and zero power loss to pc. But you have to trust yourself to do this procedure correctly everytime, but I guess it doesn't have to be super accurate timing, several seconds or even a minute of both batteries on won't hurt. In parallel of course.
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File: backup.png (963KB, 1770x748px) Image search: [Google]
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>2 deep cycle marine batteries
>1 large battery backup
>1 small battery backup

>marine battery running the large UPS
>the charged small UPS recognizes this and allows power through
>desktop computer is on
>when marine battery is disconnected, the large UPS stops providing power
>small UPS recognizes this, and uses its own battery power
>gives you enough time to swap the marine battery and turn the large UPS back up

Easy
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>>1037420
Thanks, but the I neglected to mention that I'm looking for portability similar to that of a laptop
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File: charge controller.png (23KB, 414x308px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1037383
I'm thinking about this for the charge controller
http://pdf.wholesalesolar.com/controller%20pdf%20folder/morningstar-sunsaver-manual.pdf

>24V battery at solar connection
>24V battery at battery connection
>Load connected to PSU

But will I be able to keep the backup battery fully charged with this setup?
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>>1037441
>But will I be able to keep the backup battery fully charged with this setup?
This is complicated by
>NOTE: If the battery voltage is below 11.5 volts (or
23.0 volts), the load has been automatically
disconnected due to a very low battery charge
condition, and the battery must be recharged.
>>
>>1037444
Ok, just answered my own question: The 24V battery won't drop below the 23V mark until discharged to 30% of capacity
>>
File: katkaisija.jpg (14KB, 240x320px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1037383
On boats there is often the funbattery and the starter battery. On several occasions I havwe seen a rotary switch that overlaps when it is turned. So basically it has four modes, battery off, both, battery 1 and battery 2. When switching between batteries there need to be a battery always connected to the alternator because alternator.
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>>1037488
This is known as a "make-before-break" switch.

Loads of audio switches work like this.
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>>1037383
OP here, pretty sure electricity doesn't work like I thought it did when I wrote the OP
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>>1037488
This sounds like the ideal (cheap and easy) solution for OP.

But WTF kind of PC does OP have that he can keep switching batteries but has no access to AC power? I'm not seeing this being practical unless it's some raspberry or something.
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>>1037444
I use these at work. If you connect your load to the battery terminals, rather than the load terminals, you can bypass the low voltage shutdown.
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>>1037612
Nice! I could actually use this in relay form.
Easy to implement too from stock parts using a bit of logic, complete with a buzzer for switchover and indicator lights for extra effort.

I would just buy a suitable relay, but heavy duty parts are expensive.
>>
>>1037390
Hey hey don't speak for all of us. Many will engage in sadistic butt penetration.

Not me tho.
Thread posts: 18
Thread images: 4


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