Hi /diy/ I wanted to use this as the top of my computer desk,

Are you really gonna put considerable weight in the middle of the desk? Don't you put your PC tower off to the side?

>>1031201
>Would it be exceedingly difficult to make a desk that looks like this?

no
buy a bunch of small pieces or rip them down, stagger the joints, glue it, and clamp it....then stain it

>>1031210
>stagger the joints, glue it, and clamp it
How do I do this? I've literally never done woodworking before

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>>1031201
Build a frame to support it.

See on my photo, there is a frame under the desk top? Do that.
It's easy.

>>1031201
The cheapest method would be to to get sticky back plastic with butcher block pattern on it.

>>1031201
Ikea sold (at least several years ago) metal frames for the desks. See the leaflet:
http://www.ikea.com/ms/en_US/pdf/buying_guides_fy15/GALANT_desk_bg.pdf
I bet you can still buy some on e-bay.

>>1031206
>Are you really gonna put considerable weight in the middle of the desk? Don't you put your PC tower off to the side?

be glad you didnt work in the old days of CRT monitors. I used to use a 22" Mitsubishi Diamond Pro monitor - biggest monitor commercially available back then, and cost about a grand. Thing weighed about 20 kilos, too. 10 years on, my desk still have a bit of a curve to it from sitting with all those years with weight on it.

>>1031214
then never mind

unless you're willing to pay for tools and stuff you probably do not have

if you wanted to use that top, you could still make a simple base for it, depending on what you wanted to use for legs

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>>1031201

>>1031201
Get a good 4mm board, and put Kallax board/shelf. Either put one 2×2 shelf piece on each side, or for more storage, use 2×4 pieces on one side.

>>1031201
>>1031238
the cornery ones have a frame, the long straight ones just have 5 legs, extra one center rear. (or front i guess if you like sitting with your crotch against a pole.)

>>1031201
>If against a wall, make triangular or flat supports along the back side
>Or make small supports for all sides. or as many as you want. Idgaf
>Or take a router and make a channel for a metal bar to go across the middle of the bottom and screw that shit in. Or don't even bother making the channel.
>Or weld up a frame, maybe x shaped and screw that shit to the bottom or weld it to the legs.
>Or don't do any of it. I don't have a ton of woodworking experience and don't know if it'll sag at all.

Would it be too hard to just buy a 5th leg and but it in the middle of the table? I think not. I did exactly that with my linnmon desk

>>1031201
What are the measurements of the piece you are going to buy? since that one just says 74"x1 1/2" what is the width or the thickness. I hoping its 1 1/2" thick. but you still need a width if the 1 1?2 is the width then you are being fucked.

Just put an apron on it.

>>1031201
Please tell me that shit isn't from ikea, everything from ikea is terrible.

I have a work desk from there and i kid you not the melamine lamination is like 2 thousandths thick.

>>1031508
I got a straight long (160cm) one, it does not even have a place for the middle leg (000.568.84 in ikea leaflet).
I have also a 120cm frame (200.568.83) connected to a frame extension that is is 25.5cm long (and seems not to be available anymore).

I can tell that the 160cm frame does it's job as expected. The other is for 60cm wide top, and with a 80cm one, the sides aren't as firm as I'd like, at least with ikea top (though I got used to it and I no longer care).

>>1031570
True, the lamination for table tops sucks. After 5 years, when I stick a duct tape to the desk, it comes off with the finish :/
But OP wants a glued wooden top, I doubt ikea can do it wrong.

>>1031564
Ikea is stupid with dimensions. That is a kitchen top, and they have a single width for kitchen tops, that's why they don't spell it out.

The most idiotic thing they've done with dimensions so far is selling a 83cm wide basin as 80cm. When I asked wtf?, they told me that it's compatible with 80cm cabinet. That was after I had my drywalls done.

>>1031201
Hey OP, I've actually used an IKEA countertop as my desk for almost 10 years. I have it simply laid on top of two trestles that are placed maybe 40 cm from the edges, and it easily holds my weight when I stand on it, about 60 kg. I haven't seen any sagging whatsoever.

It says numerär on the bottom but it doesn't seem like IKEA sells this one anymore. It looks exactly like on your picture but I believe mine is massive oak.

The legs I also got from Ikea, they're a strange box-like construction so there's really 8 legs where those furthest to the middle are maybe 40cm from the edges. I'd say the desk spans about 120 cm over the middle without any support.

If IKEA's current countertops are as solid as mine then I really wouldn't worry about sagging. Assuming you won't stand on it like I did you can probably span the edge to edge distance safely if you're going to have legs mounted at the edges.

>>1031201
>>1031798
I now see that your countertop has a particleboard core, I don't know how that holds up.

Are you going for the 74 inch one? That's the same length approximately as mine I think. I bet that it will still hold up just fine, with just 4 legs.

Don't mean to hijack but this thread is somewhat on topic.

I've made tabletops before in shop class, but I had access to a planer. Now that I'm out of school, will I need to buy a planer to cut the top so it's smooth or will a hand plane and sanding do just as good of a job?

>>1031206
yes people use furniture to stand on to change light bulbs and shit. you havnt built it right if you cant jump on it.

>>1031201
just go to a cabinetmaker, carpenter or wherever and ask them for a jointed slab of X sized pine then you can just give it a coat of epoxy and itll look great.

now, about this, most people see a desk and think the surface is a supporting structure. not even close. the surface bears no structural loads. as this guy mentioned, >>1031215
it's all about frame. you need a solid frame. your plan right now is to just put some screws into that particle board and assume they wont simply tear out. they will.

so this is how a desk is made, and i wish there was a sticky for how often i need to answer this question. you begin first of all by building a solid rectangle with corner braces. and an X running in whichever way across you want, diagonally or at right angles. ok now turn it on its side and sit on it. does it sag? yes? you didnt make it right. ok so now you've managed to build a rectangle that doesnt sway or bow whichever way you press on it, you choose your legs. install the legs. now brace the legs. the only way to avoid using braces is to use extremely rigid materials which either means very large chunks of lumber or steel or solid panels. ok so now you have your basic frame build, the surface just sits on top. you made sure its all level right?

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>>1031247
>tfw I still use a 21" CRT

Good thing my desk isn't a cheap piece of shit from IKEA

>>1031915
depends on your plans and skills

>>1032101
>CRT
fuckin flickering drove me nuts
nice snes though

Google "pipe deak" OP. If you take some time planning it out and get the guy at home depot to thread it for you you will have no cutting to do in your own.

>>1032379
"pipe desk"

Fucking hell SwiftKey

>>1032116
>the high pitch whine

>>1031201

OP you won't be able to attach legs to this. This thing is only 1.5" thick, as soon as you drill into that shitty MDF it's going to be weakened. Even if you could just attach legs to it on the 4 corners, it wouldn't be sturdy enough to use as a desk. It's going to be wobbly as fuck until it finally falls over. Sorry to negative, but I tried using one of these Karlby slabs to make a headboard and was disappointed. You need a frame underneath this thing dude. Either that or you need to use real wood. You can get butcher block wood or used wood that is comparable and make a better looking desk for cheaper than this ikea junk.

>>1032116
>>1032413
I've never noticed any high pitched whines or flickering. I do have it running at 90Hz though...