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My garage door extension spring broke. Is this something I could

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My garage door extension spring broke. Is this something I could realistically do myself? How difficult is it? It doesn't look that sophisticated looking at the other side, just a spring clipped onto one end of the ceiling to a frame bracket and on the other end to a pulley and cable.

I called True Value, Ace, Lowes, Grainger, and Home Depot asking for a spring like pic related (210lb 25x42") and no one has it. Is there a "garage door supply" or do I have to order it online?

Pic Related
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File: IMG_20160717_185416.jpg (570KB, 1912x1084px) Image search: [Google]
IMG_20160717_185416.jpg
570KB, 1912x1084px
That's the other side. It really doesn't look too bad to do.
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>>1025116
Man, it's possible to do yourself. Its not too difficult... However... If you fuck up, you can get really fucked up. I've seen pipe wrenches thrown across a garage, through a wall, and right into a water heater.

That being said. If you pay attention. Watch some videos. You should be able to do it.

If you have the money to pay someone, it's worth the money.
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>>1025122
Also, im not sure how different styles and models are. One style might be simple while another can be a pain. I night even go to a garage door company and ask for a few tips. Bring them some drinks or lunch and they'll probably point you in the right direction.
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>>1025122
I think the main danger seems to be in one of the knots for the steel cables "slipping/coming loose" as you close the garage door and letting the tensioned spring fly around

The parts are about $80 for new springs/cables/pulleys and the average contractor is charging $200-300, my main fear is really that the contractor ends up finding "other" shit wrong and what's originally a $240 work order turns into a $400-500 job.

>>1025125
I'm using the other side as a reference, the spring there seems "floppy" and doesn't hold tension once the door is fully opened.

If it was a torsion spring (twist type that's above the center of the door) I'd be a little more scared.
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>>1025127
If it's not under tension when you're working on it, I say go for it. That's really what's dangerous. If you are worried about a knot in a cable coming loose, you should really get some of those crimp on block things. I doubt those will slip off
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>>1025116
Why not weld a ring where the spring has broken? That way you would have two springs joined together by the welded ring, functioning in the same way as the spring would if it was brand new, probably loosing some mm of elongation and adding a bit more tension, but that would probably be insignificant.
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>>1025158
Sounds good in theory, but I'd be worried the door could jam up having different loads of force on either side.

Also the heat from welding it could create a weak point just outside the welded spots increasing the chance of another break.

I would only do this if they don't make replacement springs.


But hey, im no scientist.
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>>1025158
It would just move the weak point down at another spring run that would likely snap again. When extended they're fully tensioned and go from 25 inches to 42 inches to help give 210lbs of pulling force. And these springs already have had likely 10+ years of service.

New springs are like $30/each anyways, the bigger issue is having to wait 2-3 days for them to arrive.
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>>1025116
I've done this, but I can't remember for the life of me how I cobbled it together. The springs just help the motor, and the sucky part of the job is working over the door because you have to do it while it's up. The difference in length will matter when you close it, but not like binding up, it just won't close right until you get the lengths worked out right.

Tl;dr I did this and learned it's okay for a few days until you can get new springs.
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>>1025206
Oh, and does the cable go through the spring, in effect capturing it in case of it breaking? It should if you're patching it, just in case. I think I ended up finding a spring at a local mom and pop hardware store.
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>>1025116
you need to get it from a special garage door place

if its just a pull type spring you could probably replace it, some of them twist instead if it twists i wouldn't do it yourself because its fucking dangerous you have to tension it up and shit
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>>1025116
I work with garage doors and we weld the springs for a temorary fix until we get a replacement. The spring will lose its hardening when you weld it, it could hold together for months or snap the next day. So its best to get a replacement spring.
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I've had both of mine break at the home I'm renting. Both times the landlord fixed it himself along with most other things because he's basically a professional handyman (he runs a carpet business in addition to his rental business). I feel like it's easy enough to do yourself.
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>>1025217
Yeah, I can't find any retailers and I live in the NYC Metro Area.

Its a pull type spring.

>>1025206
Alright, that's good to hear.

Do I have to weigh the door before ordering anything? Or can I just trust the markings (white #210 with a clip on both ends) on the spring if it operated fine before it broke? I already found a similar spring here, has a clip on both ends like mine.

http://www.mcoverheaddoorparts.com/Extension-Springs-for-7-High-Door-210-p/extsp7-210.htm?CartID=1

http://www.mcoverheaddoorparts.com/product-p/cpkit.htm?CartID=2

They also sell a cable and pulley kit, apparently it'll work with a 7 foot door like I have now.
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>>1025201
>And these springs already have had likely 10+ years of service.
This is why you should replace both springs when one breaks.
The other one is probably ten years old too.
Tension springs are easy to replace and require almost no tools.
Torsion springs are more difficult, require more disassembly to get the spring of and back on, and are somewhat dangerous to set.
Pipe wrenches are NEVER the proper tool for a garage door spring.
Tension springs require two 1/2" steel bars as the handles to turn the spring.
I've done many and since I've been careful I've never had a problem adjusting them.
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All these lightweights. If the spring was tensioned when it broke (probably) and didn't whip about all crazy and cause damage, then you shouldn't need to worry about killing yourself. It's a tension spring, so nothing bad will happen if it's released unless your fingers are between the coils. Wear safety goggles for the wire and you'll be fine. Replacing both springs is optional, but you'll have to do them both anyway, and its a good idea if they take a while to ship.

Alternatively, if you have a backyard forge and a welder, you could weld back together the broken link and bring both springs up to a high temperature. If you do this to temper and/or harden them to spring standards, effectively reforging the metal, you wouldn't need to buy anything but the coal/electricity and the shit tons of boric acid.

Not that I have any experience doing any of this, mind you.
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>>1025479
Yeah... The fact that you present it like, "La tee da, just weld it in a forge, re-harden and temper it" tells some of us that you haven't done it. Not trying to sound like a douche, but that would test even a skilled blacksmith. Most would probably tell you to buy a new one.
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Call overhead door and have them come take a look. If it's fixable just tell them to clamp it. It'll probably work for a little while longer before more problems start happening again.

Or get both springs replaced. Replace one if your tight on money but you should really buy both.
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have replaced the torsion style ones... not fun, but possible..

as far as finding this one what model is the garage door opener? have you tried calling the manufacturer? they'll usually be able to tell you where to buy parts from...

other than that I have no experience with this type of spring, but I can't imagine it's impossible, just go slow and get a friend to help..

if you live alone seriously get some help... falling off a ladder in a garage and cracking your head open on the concrete with the door closed so no one can see you and no one to know your missing is bad...
Thread posts: 20
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