Currently broke down on the side of the highway.... coolant forced

Herro?

>>1023537
pic inside needed

>>1023537
in order of things to check:

radiator cap (very common and cheap to fix)
evap tank cap
thermostat seizure
head gasket hole (ur fug'd)

>>1023545
Though it looks too old to have them, if opie has electric fans its worth checking their fuses and relays. I had a focus that would randomly boil over, came down to pitted contacts on its control relay intermittently failing to make contact.

>>1023551
I had a fiat that decided to blow its relief valve in traffic. Fan relay had gone, radiator was hot enough to melt the fan. Took the head out with it. Ended up scrapped.

Coolant expands when it's hot. Something is making it very hot. Cap is obviously part of the problem if it's old and corroded. You need to find sauce.

>>1023537
this >>1023558 !
seen the same happen on a corsa (opel/vauhxall)
temperature sensor/trigger on the rad broke down, radiator fan never turned on, no one knew it wasnt working. radiator ended blowing up, $100 for a new radiator+coolant because of a $5 part

>>1023537
>What would happen if it was never flushed out? Buildup or something? Anyone know?

its supposed to be almost a closed system. as long as its the manufacturer's recommended coolant, not really anything.

maybe someone added too much water or used tap water affecting the boiling point -> it shoots out

or there's oil in it from a head gasket leak or a crack in some passageways that lets them mix

>>1023537
If what youre seeing is foamy the head gaskets done.engine basically fucked.theres no reson to ever flush a cooling system unless oil is present...aka foam...shit motor... Or if youve beeen using inappropriate coolant like,oh idk,pissing in the radiator,adding straight wter to the radiator.idk why its not running out tube from expansion valve.motor most likely trashed though.

possible problems:

thermostat didnt open

temp sensor not working and doesnt turn on the fan,

head gasket issue (foamy, oil in coolant)

water pump went bad. coolant is not flowing properly

The most important thing you can get out of op's post is his confusion on how often you flush a cooling system.how about never?shit garages will sell this concept but its little more then a scam to sell you coolant unless a known,and i mean known like you fucking put it in,additive was introduced to the system or theres indication of oil,via the aforementioned foam,in the coolant reservoirs.All op may have is a bum thermostat,fairly cheap,or a trashed water pump but seriously dont pay people to flush a cooling system that works.

>>1023558
>>1023572
Do eurofags not pay any attention to the coolan temp gauge on their cars?

>>1023623
>implying new cars have gauges
My 2014 Sorento has a speedometer, and a gas gauge.

>>1023656
>implying you can't use OBDII
>buying a new car

It's like you're trying to be a pleb.

>>1023580
>as long as its the manufacturer's recommended coolant, not really anything.

Mechanic here. Coolant does deteriorate but it takes a long time. Some check it using a hydrometer.

Engine is probably toast from a blown head gasket or cracked head.

>>1023656
>Implying the gauge isnt on the reservoir

>>1023765
Chemist here.
Actually, the coolant doesn't NEED to be changed until it starts to corrode the internal parts via galvanic action (the mixed metals basically turn the engine into a battery).
You measure the voltage it generates and if it's above [some say] 0.30v then the corrosion inhibitors have broken down and the coolant needs replacing.
Doing a drain/fill at least every 2 years should be enough to deal with it.

>>1023771
what?
U high m8?
The Coolant temp sensor is in the block.
Even if it's malfunctioning, paying attention to the sensor readings should tell you something.
Starts cold, gets warm then hot, you have a temp problem.

Starts cold/warm/hot and stays that way with no change, your sensor is going bad on you.

>>1023842
Try every decade, egghead.

I've seen that happen from stuck tstats. Wait till it's cool, start it with the cap off. If smoke comes out ur boned. Wait until it gets hot. Look for constant bubbles/exhaust smoke in coolant. See smoke, it's blown. See steam. Put cap on, see if fans come on when gets to operating temp. No? Jump relay terminal. 87 to 30. Fan comes on, replace relay. No? Replace fan. Fan came on it's own? Touch upper hose, it's hot. Touch lower hose. Not hot, much cooler? Radiator clogged or tstat stuck closed. Tstat cheaper, easier. Try replacing that first. Doesnt work, replace radiator.

>>1023847
In most cases galvanic action starts to occur after ~2.5 years.

I mean you could run 10 years, but you would see internal pitting on aluminum, and rust on steel.
I bet you think differential fluid lasts longer than 10 years too.

It's a good idea to change coolant every 2 years.
Every 3-4 if you're as stingy as /pol/ envisions jews.

Unless you drive a truck or a prius, it shouldn't cost more than $40 every 2 years for said maintenance.

>>1023916
>It's a good idea to change coolant every 2 years.
Maybe 30 year old cars. Nowadays it's not recommended for 10 years. Some 15. Also rear differential oil doesnt need to be changed. Some actually say right on the thing not to do it, unless you submerged it in water.

>>1023973
Long life coolant has been around since the mid 90s
10 year 100,000 miles.

The question is, are you dumb enough to actually neglect your cooling system under the guise that there is some sort of miracle fluid in your radiator?

Same thing with the rear dif, sure there are a few they supply with a supposed lifetime oil in it that never needs changed.

The problem is the cars are built will planned obsolescence in mind.

Let us remind everyone that DexCool was touted as being a 10 year 150,00 mile coolant. When people neglected their systems and they started dying left and right

We all use coolants that are very similar to dexcool formula today.

>>1023973
>Some actually say right on the thing not to do it, unless you submerged it in water.

Old mechanic wives tale. No lubricant improves with age and moisture intrusion is common over time due to temperature changes.

It's wise to have a look now and then so you can anticipate failure on keeper vehicles. Most people don't keep vehicles very long and they can ignore such things.

>>1023982
Fuck trusting makers. They want to sell vehicles, not keep fleets rolling and lose money.

>>1023982
>>1023987
It does say it on there. Also, nowadays, 10 years 150k miles the car is probably ready for the junkyard anyway.

>>1024004
>It does say it on there

Im sure it does

>10 years 150k miles the car is probably ready for the junkyard anyway.

Im sure it is, especially when you neglect proper regular maintenance like they want you to.
Like not changing your fucking coolant

>>1023847
>>1023973
Are you that faggot who, 4-6 months ago, came into that thread shitting on mechanics and tried to convince everyone that mechanics who lie and overcharge aren't scumbags?
Who said they were a mechanic at a stealership, then at your own shop, then not even in the auto business at all?

>>1024016
No, not me. Overcharging is a shitty thing to do. Most people neglect regular maintenance on their cars. It doesn't matter really. The guys that want coolant flushes usually have bald tires, or grinding brakes. I mean, change oil and shit, something breaks fix it. You can be as meticulous as possible and shit will still fail. The place i works at tries to push fluid services all the time. It definitely won't hurt to do, but if someone is at like 100k and wants coolant or atf flushed, it's probably too late to make a difference. Brake fluid is like 2 years. Flush it out religiously, then when the caliper seizes anyway explain to the customer what happened. At 100k, it's gonna ride like shit, need struts, fluids, tune up, tbelt, tires, maybe brakes. It's rusted to fuck. The seats are gonna have a 100k ass groove in the seat. Stains everywhere. Smells. That's the average 100k car i see. Gonna cost thousands to fix, when you can get a new car and be done. Every once in a while you get the guy that gives a shit and takes care of their car and maybe it pays off. But that's not most people. And I've found the more meticulous i am with anything, the more it fucks me. Take care of your car, some asshole smacks it in a parking lot. I gave up long ago and drive a 96 toyota. I got that after my 87 civic tbelt idler seized and the belt broke. I get maintenance, but if someone asks "do i HAVE to do that?" I say no. You don't have to do anything, but it wont hurt.

>>1023623
>>1023558
didn't have a temp gauge. (or a rev counter)
overtemp light did not come on

>>1024004
>10 year old car is ready for the junkyard
Ayyy lmao, my first car was a 27 year old Toyota Starlet. Look after your shit.

>>1023537
Diesel mechanic here...either a blown head gasket or overheat situation. Maybe both. Does the car run?

File: 1392082341168.jpg (463KB, 1920x1080px) Image search: [Google]

463KB, 1920x1080px

>>1024004
>10 years
>150k
>ready for the junkyard

>>1024185
see >>1023709
and >>1023844

>>1024004
Kek. Got three new cars <2yo. All hemi . Still drive old wagon, 360k in preference. Fuck ya mum pal

>>1024004
With regular maintenance my car is at 25th miles and at worst could use a new paint job.

>>1024614
250k*

>>1024614
I have never understood people who act like 100k or 150k is an accomplishment.

I livedon't in a small town where you had to drive a lot.
Every car I had would hit 250k miles perfectly fine.

The only way to get rid of a car was slamming it into a deer.
had a Dodge Caravan go 320k before it was wrecked.

>>1024621
My golf 2 from 82 already passed all nines on the counter. I don't even dare guess how many miles it passed. Such is life in slavland

>>1024621
This senpdesuis.

Bought my first truck at 30k. Ran fine for 200k, drove it at least 80 miles a day every day.
Finally went to college, the shit only got driven once or twice a week for a few miles, and she went downhill within a year.
I limped old blue home 600 miles to park out in the pasture and die a dignified death until it transitioned into a landmark and home to feral animals.

>>1024218
>>1024266
>>1024467
>>1024614
>>1024621
>>1024862
>>1024886
Ya'll are forgetting most people are not /diy/ers or even have half a clue about maintenance, despite youtube, the internet, the book that comes with the car. Most of the cars i see are in pitiful condition with like 75k miles on them.

>>1023597
A head gasket can blow without mixing oil and coolant. Just saying

>>1023604
>sister in law has eclipse spyder
>never flushed coolant
>cooling system stopped working
>employs me to fix it
>coolant is rust water
>water pump not pumping
>pump impellers are non existent from pumping sand water

So yeah, flush your coolant. Shit gets abrasive and corrosive over time.

>>1023604
>how about never?

Coolant goes corrosive and abrasive over time. This wears down your everything until something breaks.

Source: I am an industrial maintenance technician.

>>1026053 - you mean she never changed her coolant, period.
>>1026060
Not that anon, but,
Changing your coolant is important.
Flushing not so much.
If you properly drain the engine, the amount of old coolant left behind is insignificant since it will dilute into the new coolant.
However if you just drain the rad and not the block, then yeah, you're gonna have a bad time.

>>1026076
>If you properly drain the engine, the amount of old coolant left behind is insignificant since it will dilute into the new coolant.

How do you do this without a flush
I do the water through the radiator while running until thermostat opens up "flush".

You pretty much have to flush it to get old coolant out dont you?

>>1026060
This.

Coolant has additives to hold minerals and rust in suspension and buffer pH. Pretty soon, the old stuff can't absorb any more so minerals clog radiator and coolant turns acidic.

>>1026076
>Flushing not so much.

You can skip flushing if you drain and replace a good part of your coolant somewhat more often.

Guys how can you know if your coolant needs changing?

The last owner kept literally no records

>>1026086
No, at most (this is including shitty engine designs) your cooling system should only have about 1/4-1/2 quarts (~250-500ml) of coolant left if you drain both the radiator AND the block.
This small amount is effectively water with diethylene glycol in it, not acid.

when you add the two liters or more of coolant you are replenishing the anti-corrosion additives in the cooling loop.

If you're really freaking out about it, drain and fill once more and you should have at most 31-125ml in the system after that.

You do it by
1.) draining the rad

2.) draining the block from the block drain bolt, or removing the lower rad hose and draining the heater core, if your vehicle doesn't have a drain bolt.


>>1026182
see >>1023842
>You measure the voltage it generates and if it's above [some say] 0.30v then the corrosion inhibitors have broken down and the coolant needs replacing.

Measure between the vehicle ground, and the fluid under the rad cap. Don't touch the sides of the rad with the multi-meter probe in the coolant, or you will get a 0v reading.
If it's no-longer the original color (a clear green, red/pink, orange/yellow, or blue, sometimes purple) or it's brown-black, then yeah, it's probably bad.

Or you could not be a jew and just change all of the important fluids (oil, coolant, tranny/ATF, and diffs) yourself now, so you know when they need doing.