Hey guys. I'm trying to cut threads on a gun barrel, but

>>1021353
Barrel for what?

https://www.amazon.com/Barrel-Vise-Rifle-Pistol-Barrels/dp/B00GRDF7OI

>>1021353
Try putting a shaft collar(s) on it and then vise the hookey outa that

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>>1021358
That might work. It is the barrel to an IMI timberwolf (pic related). Im using it to make a homemade rifle.

>>1021363
2 questions:
If i get something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Climax-Metal-H1C-075-Shaft-Collar-One-Piece-Black-Oxide-Finish-Steel-3-4-x-/111899959410?hash=item1a0dc1e072:g:7GUAAOSwWTRWuR9L

1- Will it mess up the finish on the barrel?
2- can i grind it flat on two sides so that I can clamp it in the vise better?

Shade tree gunsmith here. For starters, you would normally cut threads on a barrel using a lathe, never by hand. But I get it, this is /diy/.

You'll want soft aluminum vise jaws; I find V cut is better than radiused.

Additionally, make sure you're using cutting lube with that die.

I hope that the vise pic you posted isnt the one you're actually are using. I don't believe it can generate and hold the clamping force required to cut threads.

>>1021377
It isnt the one I am using. What should I look for in a proper vise for this project.

>>1021371
>barrel to an IMI timberwolf
Any GIS I run just shows a round barrel, nothing square at the breach end...

You have a Home Depot near by?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-Non-Marring-Vise-Jaw-Accessory-for-Use-on-Vises-with-Jaws-from-3-in-to-6-in-Wide-BV-NVJ/204986223

Worth a shot for $5

>>1021387
The entire barrel is round. That is why it is being so difficult. Those jaws look like they might just slip more.

>>1021385
I bought this vise jaw set. Again, I highly recommend using the aluminum jaws for this project.

Get a vise with 6" jaws, at a minimum. I don't think anyone ever said "gee, I wish my vise was smaller." I started with a 4" vise, and had a barrel twist while I was removing a flash hider from a barrel (it was torqued on waaaay more than necessary).

If you're trying to cut threads manually, ready yourself for the likelihood that the barrel WILL twist, and it WILL mar the finish. But that's not a big deal, and the folks at Birchwood Casey sell a very nice cold rebluing kit.

>>1021353
You can also use lead to line the jaws. I doubt it'll mess up the finish any more than aluminum will.

>>1021393
If you use radiused vise jaws, the barrel will have a maximum of two points of contact. V shaped jaws will provide four points of contact no matter what.

>>1021394
Forgot link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BF1VEK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

>>1021373
Might go to McMaster, they have a shitload n they're pretty cheap. http://www.mcmaster.com/#shaft-collars/=138r7au

1 - I wont say it cant, but with the clamping action it would be probably minimal.
2- Hmm. I'm gonna go ahead and say yes, but you'll want to not take off too much that you interfere with the threads. Also you WILL fuck up the black oxide coating on the shaft collar, if you care about it.

>>1021394
Thanks for being so helpful. My vise jaws are 6" so i think I will get some jaws like the ones you linked. Was it an AR that you were trying to remove the flash hider from?

>>1021401
Wow, those are cheap. I just ordered a couple.

>>1021406
The flash hider was on a Ruger Gunsite Scout rifle, 5/8-24 threads. Some forums recommended buying a huge torx bit that happened to fit the splines inside the stock flash hider, and using an impact wrench to remove it. In retrospect, I should have listened to them; it took my full body weight on a 4ft breaker bar to get it off.

>>1021423
Holy shit. Did it come from the factory that tight?

>>1021427
Yes, It was the factory flash hider. It was so tight that I contacted Ruger about it before resorting to the breaker bar; their only recommendation was to send it back to the factory.

So, it wound up taking the 4ft bar on a 10 in Crescent wrench with 300lbs of me hanging off of it to get it off. The barrel finish got worn off in four spots. I hit it with a cold blue touch up marker and said "screw it, good enough."

>>1021436
>300 pounds
Lose some weight.

>>1021436
Well at least it wont come off in the field

>>1021482
Do you have any DIY methods to recommend weight loss? No? Then take your shitposting to >>/b/

>>1021353
>I tried drilling some wood just smaller than the barrel, and cutting it down the middle to hold the barrel. That slipped too.

I would have lined it with some rubber

>>1021353
Quick solution is to wrap the barrel with self amalgamating rubber tape. This grips like buggery and is cheap. You can just carefully cut it off after.

>>1021639
>self amalgamating rubber tape

I came in to say this
Get some Rescue Tape or some other type of that silicone tape, Shit works wonders

>>1021353
>on a gun barrel
Holy shit go find somebody with a lathe.

>>1021601
It's easy,stop eating so much.
I'm down 29 pounds that way.

>>1021607
>lined it with some rubber
a piece of inner-tube
contact cemented to wood

>>1021639
>>1021647
I read a little on this stuff. It says it adheres to itself, but not the workpiece. wouldn't that let it slip?

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>>1021482
>>1021729
"I don't have anything to contribute to this thread, but here is someone being really helpful. I had better call them fat" - You

>>1021773
It has no adhesive, but it's very tacky and sticks to your surface well.
When they say it doesn't adhere, it means that there is no adhesive so if you cut it off it won't be like ripping duct tape off something. no residue because no adhesive. But it's crazy, when it touches itself it does adhere strongly, like when you put twould pieces of duct tape together. it's really hard to pull apart.

>>1021781
Cool. I will have to give that a try.

Putting scraps of lead between the barrel and the vice might also work if you have some laying around. Shit is soft enough to form to the barrel but strong enough to still provide some grip. And post results!

Haven't any of you ever heard of a pipe vise?
How do any of you people think they tread steel pipe?
It's essentially a wide angled V shape, with a motorcycle type chain that goes over the top and the chain is drawn tight with a crank.
Ask a plumber or Boiler guy if you know one.
If not go to any of those tool rental places. Taylor rental is the franchise around here.
But I can't imagine why anyone would want to thread their gun barrel.

>>1022970
If you can't even grasp the basic concept of a threaded gun barrel, then don't comment on a field you know nothing about. Clearly the OP intends to mount a muzzle device.

The tool you suggested is going to fuck up a gun barrel. If it doesn't stress the metal to the point of creating a weak spot, it will certainly damage the finish.

Also keep in mind he's not cutting pipe threads, so different techniques are called for all around here. Gun barrels are also relatively hard and thin metal tubes compared to other types of tubes with threads. This is a machining issue, not a plumbing issue.

>>1023878
Not that anon, but I'm pretty sure someone makes brass pipe jaws for this very issue.

OP, are you sure the diameter of the barrel is correct for the threads you want to cut? If it's oversize even a little bit you won't make it very far. If the size isn't correct then it will need to be turned. And since that will have to happen in a lathe you just go ahead and single point the threads then.

>>1023878
>stress the metal to the point of creating a weak spot
lol from a vice on a hardened gun barrel and threading a gun gun barrel for a break is the same thing as pipe so i would watch who you say knows nothing about anything

>>1023945
Yeah. I made sure to look up the correct die size for the barrel. I used some better cutting oil and that seemed to help. It is still moving in the jaws, but I can cut a little before it moves. Now it is a matter of cutting a little bit, and then re-tightening the vise. It is slow going, but it is working.

>>1023961
It is NOTHING like a pipe. Pipe threads are rolled; gun barrel threads are cut. Two totally different methods.

>>1024674
No. Pipe threads are cut. My pipe dies all have four cutters per head.
Pipe taps are the more common three or five flutes per tap.

Take it to a machine shop with a lathe. This will save you a ton of aggravation. Many places that work on engine blocks will work on gun components too.

It is way too difficult to work on perfectly round components without the use of lathe. When I did amatuer gunsmithing and built AKM platform stuff I would use an old garbage trunnion and press the barrel into it and then clamp my vice on the trunnion so I could cut threads. But obviously this is much much harder to do on barrels that are not press fit into the receiver. If I ended up doing anything on Mosin-Nagant or Mauser barrels I always took them down to the machine shop.

>>1024704
Look dummy, you may THINK those dies are cutting. They are not. They roll the material into shape, rather than removing material.

>>1025244
He's not the dummy and you are WRONG in the case of manual dies which have insert cutters and mostfuckingcertainly cut instead of roll! You are clearly not a plumber or a machinist.

Pic of thread cutting (not rolling) insert:

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/manual-threader-pipe-and-bolt-dies

NPT pipe threads (most common in US) are cut, tapered threads. They are not rolled. Their design makes rolling inappropriate because of the taper. Rolling upsets metal. Go fucking find us a "rolled" pipe thread.

Gun barrel threads could be cut or rolled in production but most are cut in the same machining center (or for very old weapons, typical manual lathe, manual chucker lathe, or similar) which forms other barrel areas in the breach area.

CNC:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZH8w4Czy9o

Manual lathe:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XFRkTuocEgI

See "Machinery's Handbook" for more than you may want to know about threads and threading.

>>1027089
Why don't they make a version of the Machinery Handbook that has more information per page and fewer pages total, so it't not a narrow but thick brick that is impossibly to carry comfortably in a backpack with the rest of your papers and binders and shit?

>>1027089
There are some rolled taper pipe threads in MASS production but the rollers will be rare outside manufacturing:

http://www.cjwinter.com/thread-rolling/attachments/match-taper

Don't confuse roller heads with the standard Rigid powered thread cutting rig:

http://www.toolup.com/Ridgid-29948-535A-Threading-Machine?CAWELAID=120204890000444839&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=31461036851&CATCI=pla-186241743371&catargetid=120204890000446230&cadevice=c&gclid=CJH1gvWeis4CFYxahgodAskGLA

>>1027092
Download a .pdf from your favorite free source. :-)

The original format is designed to fit conveniently in a machinists tool box where most of them go instead of a student backpack. The Handbook predates the internet and the first was printed around 1914.

You won't need the latest version since standards change very, very slowly.

>>1027095
Here ya go. Seeder is fast. I'll seed for a bit too:

https://tpb.patatje.eu/torrent/4745001/Machinery_s_Handbook__27th_Edition_-_(Malestrom)