Hey /diy/, I bought my first drill press and could use some

>>1019376
You arent being very clear at all.

The drill bit holder is a chuck
The chuck opens with the key
You spin it, the jaws open and close.
You put the bits in the jaws and close it tight

Chucks are taper mount so you just press fit them
To mount your chuck to the drill press, you open the chuck all the way so the jaws are retracted

Stick the chuck onto the tapered shaft sticking out of the drill press.

Then just hit upward on the chuck with a mallet.
It wont fall off

>>1019380
Thanks m8

Push the Chuck up into the barrel with a firm solid blow.

Use a rubber or wooden mallet to strike the chuck up into the spindle.

It's called a Morse fit chuck which is tapered and works under friction.

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Are you going to use if to finish an 80% lower?

>>1019415
yeah

Use a router or make friends with someone who owns a mill.

I tried using a drill press like the one you linked to (mine was from Harbor Freight) and it was not rigid enough to drill a single straight, 1/8" diameter hole. Don't waste your time.

>>1019434
Just did my first pin hole, no issues thus far

>>1019439
Go slow, lubricate, use pilot holes.

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>>1019380
>Chucks are taper mount so you just press fit them
What? All I've seen had 1/2in left narrow thread.
How would you force press fit to actually hold? At 50Nm?
How would you replace the chuck?

>>1019439
Are you using a jig? I had one, and I was able to finish an 80% with a harbor freight drill press with no problem.

>>1019442
I'm using plenty of lube, what are pilot holes?
>>1019454
Yeah I've got a Daytona Tactical jig and 80lower drill bits

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>>1019445
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper#Morse

You hit it with a hammer to hold it on
You hit 2 wedges with 2 hammers to remove it

>>1019445
jacobs taper for any drill chuck doing actual important drilling

threaded chucks 1/2 -24 3/8-28 ect are generally GENERALLY for hand drills, they dont have left hand threads, but the bolt that holds them inside (sometimes) are left thread

you dont need to force press them on, jacobs doesnt recommend it. they use a locking taper

removing a chuck from an arbot and removing an arbor from a drill are different

>>1019518
This is gonna sound like a stupid question but where is the speed adjustment on my press?

>>1019561
The top/lid opens in some way, there's two or three pulleys in there with belt(s) on them. You move the belt up and down on both pulleys to change the speed.

>>1019575
Oh, and there is some tension release mechanism, so it's easier to change.

It's by the motor mount, you flip a lever or something and the motor slides, then you change the pulley, then slide it back out.

Also read your manual?

>>1019577
Lol it was in nonsense chinglish and was nothing but safety instructions

>>1019577
Now that will increase torque too right? I'm having some issues drilling alluminum

>>1019597

Not same guy but drilling aluminium shouldn't need a lot of torque providing you have a sharp clean drill. Medium speed. You don't want full speed as your as your drill will over heat and lose its cutting edge.

Lube or coolant is important especially drilling stainless. If I don't have cutting oil near by and I need something just a squirt of WD40 helps although not perfect for the job as it isn't very viscous.

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>>1019445
As the other anon said, threaded chucks are mostly for hand drills. Smaller drill presses like OP's typically use a Morse taper that fits snugly and holds by friction. Somewhat nicer drill presses have an access and drift to easily remove the chuck/arbor assembly if needed. Light industrial presses and up use a locking taper mount that is held in place by friction but transmits torque with a mechanical interlock.

>>1019561
>>1019577
I've used a Hico drill press similar to the one in OP's link. It doesn't have a belt tension lever, so you have to release the screws holding it in place and slide it by hand. Try to get it tight again before tightening the screws, or the belt will slip.

>>1019597
Yes. Ignoring the friction losses, torque is inversely proportional to RPM in this setup. However, that's a low-quality, light-duty drill press. I suggest babying it on metals, using low RPM, drilling in multiple steps, light but steady pressure, lots of lube, etc. Aluminum is typically easy to drill (barring unusual alloys), but you may have to work for it anyway with that drill press.

>>1019442
>Go slow, lubricate, use pilot holes.
The slowest speed is 760 rpms.
This is another issue--but a lot of cheaper drills run way too high RPMs. You would generally be better off with a drill that ran much slower, 50 to 300 RPMs, IMO.

I can't find any info on what kind of spindle it has??? Even the manufacturer page doesn't say.
http://www.hico-tools.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=72&product_id=75

>>1019485
>I'm using plenty of lube, what are pilot holes?
A pilot hole is where you first drill a small hole, say 1/16".

You need to use step drilling here. The reason is because the drill press is small and probably rather flexy. It won't drill big holes straight.

To step drill you start with a small hole and then (with the part clamped in place so it doesn't move) you drill it out larger and larger.
Like if you needed a 1/4" hole, you would drill a 1/16" hole, and then drill upwards by 1/32".
So after the 1/8" hole, you then drill a 3/32" hole, then a 1/8" hole, then a 5/32" hole, then a 3/16" hole, then a 7/32" hole, and then finally a 1/4" hole,,,, assuming you don't use a reamer for the last step.

If you try to drill one big hole at at once, the drill press flexes and drills the hole crooked.
If you drill a tiny hole and then re-drill it outwards bit-by-bit, the drill press flexes much less and drills the hole much straighter.

Note #1: for the LAST / largest hole you should use a chucking reamer, if you want it perfect. You can buy individual ones from machinist places online, you don't need a whole set.

Note #2: you should use lube while drilling and reaming, and ESPECIALLY with aluminum. It is much easier to get a smooth finish on aluminum if you cut it wet. Just use any kind of oil you have, you don't need 'real' cutting fluid. You can even use cooking oil if that's all you have; corn oil works. Anything is better than nothing.

OP, go to the AR-15 forums. Every possible way to do what you want to do with every possible tool is covered in every possible detail, and you can always post questions for each part of each machining step.

How the FUCK do you go to /diy/ instead of the shit ton of GUNSMITHING resources?

You don't want to ruin you lower by making shit up or not understanding every detail of the job, and presumably you want to LEARN proper GUNSMITHING.

Part of /diy/ is using the BEST information resources for every job.

Behold: https://www.ar15.com/

https://www.tacticalmachining.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11

Why the fuck don't these 80% faggots get mills?

Why would you go for the explicitly bubba option instead of what is actually sensible manufacturing?

Americans are such fucking garbage.

>>1021069
He is using a jig, AR-15 forum is gonna tell him to fuck right off if he would ask them how to set up and use a drill press

>>1021635
Mills are expensive

>>1021635
Mills aren't expensive but most people don't know how to hunt them down and wire them or move them without a rigger. (You can easily make dollies. Google "moving a Bridgeport",)

You can get a sound old mill for between a few hundred and two thousand dollars, then use a phase converter or VFD to power it. I did then helped gunsmith bro get and set up his. I don't bother with guns since too many hobbies already

>>1019434

Same experience with a cheap one.

>>1021635
>>1022647
If you're going to spend that kind of cash on a mill, then you might as well buy a complete lower with registration tax.

The point of using a drill press is to do it cheaply, especially if you want to avoid ASSAULT taxes.

Drilling out the lower is actually pretty forgiving. There's only a few certain areas where actual precision is necessary. Of course, knowledge and experience will tell you where those areas are.

>>1022647
>You can get a sound old mill for between a few hundred and two thousand dollars
Where do you find these deals?

>>1022768
Mills are life-changing tools good for many things. If all someone wants is a gun they should buy a fucking gun, but a project like a lower is a good spur to buying a mill.

>Where do you find these deals?

Relentless searching of Craigslist and equipment auctions coupled with relentless research on machinist forums so I know as much or more about the gear than the seller.

Self and gearhead bro team up and visit many auctions on weekends and sometimes on weekdays if worth it. We figured out people will overpay for little shit and ignore industrial gear because they are often at a loss how to move it without a rigger. We are not intimidated. He just furnished his shipping container with forty feet of beautiful electronics workbenches from the closed Bose plant in SC for ~ 1200 bucks.

I collect heavy angle and channel and casters to build dollies which make handling machine tools pretty easy. I weld so that option is handy. A basic AC stick welding machine will do some serious work if you practice. (AC used to be the main stick process when you could only get DC from a generator style welding machine.)

If your dolly is wide enough you can winch a lathe or mill onto a car trailer without tipping. You can make simple outriggers to roll on pipe when wheels have too much ground pressure as on wooden floors.

Pic is a round ram Bridgeport (scored for a grand with a Kurt vise and a shitload of good tooling) after I unloaded it into one of my containers. The heavy angle base clears a pallet jack but moves easily on pipes or rod rollers too. It's simply two heavy hunks of angle drilled to bolt to the mill base. The green channel outriggers bolt to the angle and bolt to the casters so I can remove them if I need to skid a machine. The channels sit ABOVE the angle and are secured with Grade 8 allthread and nuts. That permits me to lift or lower the machine from floor level.

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>>1023778
Fuck

>>1023781
Just noticed that pic is before I used quality allthread . DO NOT use the galvanized long bolts in the pic. Their threads bind under load even with lube.

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Gunsmithbros Bradford lathe we scored for 375 dollars at auction because no one else wanted to move it. Runs fine off his phase converter along with his thousand dollar (with collets and tooling) Hardinge mill.

Bolted orange channel to base but didn't use casters because rotten wood on his borrowed trailer and soft wood floors between trailer and final location. Bottle jack, pipe and wood at right are examples of what to use. Bottle jack lifted lathe, timber spanned the lathe ways for safe jacking.

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Pivoting lathe into final position.

>>1023793
Is it just me, or does that look incredibly dangerous?

>>1023827
I once say a guy drop a mill off a fork lift.That will drop like 4 inches at most. As long as you keep your digits out from under it the worst it will do is fuck up the floor or mess with the alighment of the lathe (which is cast, so, unlikely).

If you want to have a really fun day be there one someone drops a shipping container full of TAT boxes. That thing split open like a watermelon and the slid out like an gray tsunami.

>>1023855
What mostly concerns me is that they're pushing and pulling it by hand, with no way to quickly stop it's momentum. That is a LOT of kinetic energy. Even just a wrist that got pinched between the lathe and a wall could be jellied.

>>1023859
Not at all because we kept it under control, and if you look the distances involved from base to floor are quite short.

I should add that we moved it very slowly and used a hand winch (Wyeth-Scott). It's quite easy to chock rolling pipe with a piece of angle and to turn the pipe under the load by using another pipe. This is quite common when moving machinery and spreads the load far better than machinery skates on a wood floor.

The outrigger pipes are securely welded to the orange channel. That's why the lathe cannot tip. Note their width and position under headstock and tailstock ends of the lathe. Further apart would be more work to pivot so we went for a short "wheelbase".

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>>1023883
Headstock view showing pipe width. Lathe wasn't tippy at all. We took no risks because there's no reason to. Forklift jack "notch" fit the base casting nicely.

BTW when moving a heavy object off a trailer don't forget to block under the end of the trailer so it stays level with the other surface,

>>1022768
Noguns confirmed...

>>1023898
If you don't want to end up on the eventual confiscation database, have some weapons with no paper trail and some to turn in to the Gestapo when the time comes.

Democrats were committed to confiscation so that can never change and in any case why give them the option.

>>1023972
Save that for /k/, motivation is not machining or a machine-getting strategy.