Jfashion history spreadsheet - let's document every single

I'm lazy, I'm waiting for the FRUiTS digitizing compilation project. It's coming.

>>9098867
>Feel free to suggest more ideas!
>Feel free to contribute with ideas!
sorry, my bad

What was that one fashion where women wore those jumpsuit things and carried whistles?

There is a video about the evolution and history of jfashion with english subs somewhere on youtube.

>>9098909
Found it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TET6Jpj6vE

>>9098885
Takenoko-zoku

>>9098885
Wait what?? Pics pls

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>>9099238
>>9098913
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takenoko-zoku

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>>9099245
>>9098913
Ah thank you so much! I think we should definitely include it in the guide because despite being long dead, it's an important part of j-fash history

>>9098885
>>9099245
>>9099269
This is so great. I didnt even know this existed.

>>9099245
What were the whistles for?

>>9099286
Announcement of their performance start to gather everyone together on command.

>>9099286
For whistling in time to the music they danced to.

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>>9098867
I think that maybe we should split the "history" part in begining, climax, and descent (if it's a defunct one)

Here's a link on how Nagomu fashion became Lolita http://nagomu.livejournal.com/

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>>9099245
This is great

>>9098910
We should definitely add it to the spreadsheet!

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If someone could try and write some stuff about tecent fashions, that would be cool too.

>>9099383
I'm really curious about the origins and rise of larme, I know a lot of it centers around the magazine but like were the precursors to that? What inspired it?

>>9099393
Iirc the person who made the magazine was an ex-director of some other fashion magazine, who decided to make a book of things she liked. It ended up becoming Larme.
The larme general has a good doc on it.

>>9099393
Larme is pretty much Himekaji and Romagyaru but without the blonde gyaru hairdo and overdramatic makeup.

>>9099411
Wasn't she inspired by akamoji-kei too?

>>9099432
But Akamoji Kei isn't really a style but whatever is popular in mainstream fashion whereas Aomoji Kei is whatever is popular in alternative fashion...

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>>9099393
>>9099396
>>9099411
Haruna Nakagori used to work on Egg magazine and made Larme to showcase a sweet girly aesthetic which would mirror the latest current trends around. Started around 2012 when "cult party kei" was at its hieght, and Risa and Amo modeled and worked as shop girl for Katie (one of the key driving brands behind what most westerners consider the trademark Larme look) and some of those then street trends could be seen (wispy dolly hair, dreamy tulle skirts, red blush and lips, furry pompoms, platform shoes like Tokyo Boppers). The trademark looks associated with Larme in the west at the moment now are very much boudoir, Madamoiselle Fifi style lingerie with pencil skirts and Lolita (the Nabokov inspired movie), but it encompasses many more themes than just this.

>>9099411
You are extremely misguided.

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I hope that the closing of physical shops in favor of online only doesn't become a trend. It will be a sad day when it's all online.. Will it still be Harajuku fashion? Just J-fashion?

>>9100507
I haven't heard anyone call it Harajuku fashion since Gwen Stefani

>>9099460
Not really considering the "Larme" brands are ones that were considered Himekaji (like Swankiss and Katie) before that mag was started.

>>9100507
In case of Milklim it's not surprising considering that nobody of the original team is left, it's been dying for a while already.

>>9100538
Milklim is dying? Could I get some deets please anon?

>>9099445
>capturing the mood
>more like dress like a child pretending to be a sexy adult
This is the real age play fashion. Some of it even looks like nymphet shit from the lolita movie.
People who go from wearing lolita to this boggle my mind.

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Someone please explain to me where cpk comes from

>>9101525
afaik Grimoire had a sister store called Cult Party where the store/shopgirls had a distinct style that the west called CPK. I'm not sure if it ever really had a name in Japan.

Please also include Yankee fashion, what with the pompadours and rad jackets.

>>9098870
What is the project exactly? Tried googling but didn't find anything. I own 3 fruits books and I was thinking about scanning them/parts of them for cgl sometime.

>>9101605
I think scanning them for this thread would be awesome!

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maybe add sukeban? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sukeban

>>9101533
Grimoire and the Virgin Mary are completely unrelated. The Virginia Mary began as the store "cult party" hence the cult party kei name. Most people think cult party kei is a subset of dolly kei, but actually they grew independently of each other at the same time. I'll try to find some old write ups sometime, I used to know a lot more.

>>9101649
What is dolly kei exactly? I have seen pictures of it but never got it fully

>>9101040
Shop closing, designs going downhill, it's pretty obvious it's dying.

>>9101740
It's fashion based on traditional european clothing like how it is seen in Grimm's fairytales and antique dolls.

>>9100507
h. Naoto is closing too but Tokyo Fashion wrote about the whole issue before, Harajuku is a tourist area these days (to be exact, it's a people zoo where tourists want to see "freaks") and thus the rents did skyrocket.

>>9101605
I think they mean https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-rise-of-harajuku-kawaii-photo-book#/

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>>9101046
> calling 40s (children's) summer fashion "age play".

>>9099286
Dance Dance! Revolution!

>>9101905
Source on h. Naoto closing?

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>>9101934
>pointing out that it's children's fashion
>implying it's therefore a huge stretch to call it age play

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The book Japanese Schoolgirl Inferno is a fun book, it's got a lot of stereotypes but it might help.
Haven't reallys searched for a download yet though since I own the book.

>>9101630
I love this one and am forever sad I will never be a member of a sukeban girl gang
>tfw I'm probably too much of a pussy anyway

>>9102170
Different anon, but I found out through Tokyo fashion's instagram. Here's an article

http://tokyofashion.com/h-naoto-closing-all-stores-in-japan/

>>9098910
No Ganguro?

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>>9101610
Okay sure. Do you guys have any requests for specific styles, brands or people? Pic related are the books I own. Theyre rather thick so I wont be scanning every single page, or at least not today.

>>9102321
OH man! That middle book was what introduced me to lolita! I missed flicking through it during lunch time at HS with my friends and being freaked out by the dudes in lolita!

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>>9102370
You mean these guys on the right? Lol
But yikes, I never realized my scanner sucked quite this much, anyone know how to get rid of those vertical lines? I tried messing with the scan settings but it didn't work.. If there's no way to improve the quality idk if I should even bother scanning these at all... What do you guys think?

>>9101046
>waaah stop liking what i dont like
Probably bait, but since there are misinformed people like you out there I'll bite. Sounds like you have serious issues - I have never gotten any age-play vibe from Larme, so most of that is in your head, it's interesting to see how small minded prudes like yourselves like to throw buzzwords like age-play simply because you clearly do not understand a fashion, see instances of 40s/50s girly fashion that happens to get it's influence from the film wardrobe of a certain book, which I bet you've never even read. Having looked into this age-play shit I see it involves wearing diapers, pacifiers, daddy and mommy shit etc If you get that from Larme then, like I said you have serious mental issues or you just flat out lack anything resembling observational skills regarding fashion.

>>9102398
Yes! Haha, thanks for uploading it anon. I liked that there were also some foreigners in it too. I'm thinking of buying this book for feels...

>>9102321
Let's search specific styles and brands first. Then models. We should put models on the spreadsheet as well.

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>>9102197
>>implying it's therefore a huge stretch to call it age play

Are you seriously implying that, just because the movie is controversial, the time period accurate clothes are age play?

I wasn't even talking about Larme, but one google search makes clear it doesn't look like 40s children's clothes.

I'm sorry you're an uncultered swine and therefore don't know how to throw proper bait.

>>9102398
Don't worry, scanners usually do that to paper. Keep them coming!!!

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>>9102429
>>9102433
I figured out how to get better quality scans! Here's some lolita to start with.

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Would this be old school decora? I'm not actually that familiar with j-fashion other than lolita.

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Just going to scan a variety of different styles until I get requests.

>>9102311
Ganguro isn't Harajuku fashion, nothing related to Gyaru is, that's Shibuya fashion.

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Is there a name for this "dressed head to toe in takuya angel" kinda style? I'm seeing a lot of it in all three books and I kinda love it.

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I noticed the names on the left page are reversed here, I used to be a fan of Sisen so I recognize him lol.

>>9102455
"Angelers" iirc or maybe "Angelrs"

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More lolitas but I thought this spread was kinda funny.

>>9102471
Oh man, that bodyline lace monster...

>>9102438
>>9102444
>>9102447
Thanks, anon! I don't have any specific request but I love these scans, I'll have to buy some of these books soon

>>9102450
We want to put all kinds of jfashion in this spreadsheet though (except for historical stuff)

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>>9102960
>historical
You mean like traditional or nothing too old as to be defunct? Because I feel moga of the 1920's might be relevant since it is influenced by westernization.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modern_girl

>>9102973
I agree that Moga would be relevant

>>9103032
>>9102973
Might be the most relevant. Is there any J-fashion older? This could be the precursor to everything.

>>9102960
We were talking about the video which is about the evolution of harajuku fashion.

>>9103111
Obviously there is older ones but all the various kinds of specific traditional clothing styles for each historical period would be enough for writting a book.

>>9103221
But until the late 1800's Japan was under Sakoku, they wouldn't have had outside influence at all.

>>9103362
The wikipedia page for Kogal
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kogal
has a pretty good chronology of 'rebellious' fashion in the History section.

>Kogals were far from the first generation of Japanese girls who oya o nakaseru (made their parents weep) and inspired salacious media exposés. The daraku jogakusei (degenerate schoolgirls) of the early 1900s violated taboos against dating, while the moga, or modern girl, of the 1920s, adopted Western fashions. The hard-partying "Mambo girl" arose in the late 1950s.

>Japanese fashion began to divide by age in the 1970s with the appearance of gyaru magazines aimed at teens.
> While mainstream fashion in the 1980s and early 1990s emphasized girlish and cute (kawaii), gyaru publications promoted a sexy aesthetic.

There's more, but I don't want to spam more than I already have.

>>9102455
>>9102470
Wasn't it called wamono?

>>9103375
>>9102973
Let's put Moga in it. It looks like a mother fashion to all of jfashion today. Not sure what mambo girls or daraku jogakusei looked like though.

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I know there's a thread about it, but does anybody else feel like we're entenring the dark ages of jfashion? Do you think it will die out, or have a slow period, then a renaissance?
Do you think the western is killing jfashion?

>>9104182
I do fear that j-fashion itself will begin to die out and instead everyone will wear whatever globalized alt fashion that gets popular via social media. Alt culture takes time to refine and things move too fast these days for styles to properly develop before people move on. CPK and shironuri are already passe, will larme still be here this time next year?

>>9102321
i happen to have the postcards from this fruits collection. will scan a few of the best ones for you guys

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>>9104305
photo dump begins now. i scanned about half the deck of postcards, mostly just picked my favorites. enjoy. feel free to chop em up and reupload, whatever.

>>9104182
I'd guess the latter. Alternative fashion tends to die down for a few seasons, and then come back. There will always be people interested in the aesthetic, and those who are willing to wear it.

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>>9104319

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>>9104322

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>>9104323

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>>9104324

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>>9104328

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>>9104331

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>>9104332

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>>9104334

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>>9104335
end of dump

>>9104182
>>9104204
>>9104321
The only thing that happens currently is that Harajuku turned into a tourist area as mentioned in the other tread and thus everyone is searching for a replacement. Jfashion itself is far away from dying, thanks to the internet it is even increasing but it's the same reason for why you will see less young as a lot only go outside for few minutes in order to make selfies (speaking from my Twitter experience while following brand customers).

>>9104182
Yes and no. On a global level, J fashion is probably the biggest it's ever been. However because of this, it's losing some of its authenticity. Alot of people only get involved for the sake of efame and attention whoring, and those with legitimate interests feel very off put.

For example a lot have mentioned the severe lack of anyone wearing alt fashion in Harajuku anymore. This isn't necessarily because people stopped dressing up, but more likely they didn't want to get harassed by tourists and media. Hence why brand's online businesses are booming, but in person not so much.

This is a good article: http://universal-doll.com/2014/08/japanese-fashion-styles-broken/

>>9104331
I wonder if this couple is still together. They were snapped a few times in both Fruits books.

Okay, but who's making the spreadsheet for real?
OP said they wanted someone else to take the lead.

>>9106010
You.

>>9106011
Why not you though?

Honestly, looking through old fruits/kera/GLB and comparing them to the same magazines today, I don't understand how anyone can say J-fashion is dying now. It's been long dead. Even if the sub-styles remain, the general vibe of fun and experimentation which jumps out of the pages of an old Fruits has been gone for a decade.

Anyway, I have about 28 old Fruits and 30+ old Kera/GLB from the early 2000s on back at home in Boston. I can't access them for quite a while, but if this project ever picks up I'd be happy to scan them!

We as even a small community can keep it alive Y'know. I don't really do social media but i will for this. Give me a sign

>>9111493
Do it anon
>>9111424
Same for you anon, do it

>>9111424
that would be cool

How come lolita has held on for so long? It seems no less crazy than any of the other jfashions. It's really impractical and people sometimes think it's kinky. As much as I love lolita, why has it had such longevity?

>>9115973
My guess would be people can relate it to other stuff, like the clothes they loved as a kid or historical fashions. Most other J-fashion styles seem to be very self-contained compared to Lolita.

>>9115973
Otome and Decora aren't any less old than lolita and still around.

>>9115973
Lolita covers a lot of different tastes. Alone the three main styles sweet, gothic and classic cover a lot. It's really broad and brand are good with going with trends.

>>9115973
I feel like the rigid structure also helps a lot - as in the relatively restrictive rules like a very similar silhouette, modesty, limited color palette. Whereas a lot of other jfashions go off of a feeling or an essence of a general aesthetic like a forest girl.

I just watched Kawaii International, where the creator of FRUiTS magazine touches on this. He said he created FRUiTS during a similar period, and he thinks because there are so many styles everything is becoming similar. However, he's excited to see the future because he thinks something big is on the horizon.

>>9101649
>Virginia Mary
kekkin

>>9102470
I can be ur angle or devil

bumpan because i'm an info sponge and this could be really useful

>>9098867
Soooooooo. Who wanna create the doc? That seems to be a good start to get this project running for good

>>9115973
It's the most popular j-fashion with cosplayers and weebs because of how it looks

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>>9102419
>>9101934

It did sound like bait but I genuinely get an age-play vibe from it, and that's coming from someone who loves larme. Just look at the 'I wanna be your Lolita' choker, the cropped shirts with Lolita written on it, all the accessories that say Lolita. They are not referring to gothic lolita there. Maybe it's not age-play in the sense that they aren't trying to be baby's, but Lolita was a minor and it's a movie about a pedophile. It's just so obvious that larme kei is influenced by nymphet fashion and the Lolita movie, if you don't see it you're lying to yourself.

>>9104182
As a Lolita, i feel like our fashion is getting watered down and distorted by either not evolving, or forcing trends that soon die out. The Lolita brands dictate the style, when really we should be doing that ourselves instead of having designers hand us what they think should be trendy. I feel like it's losing its soul, and I think that's why a lot of indie accessory makers in particular have been doing so well. They listen to their customer base. Even indie brands like Haenuli listen to what customers have to say.
I'm not saying that we should ignore the big Japanese lolita branda, that'd be silly. I love Baby and AP (and many others), but I don't think we should be 100% tied to how they want to shape the fashion.

>>9098867
Bump

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>>9126283
The only thing I see getting big right now (like, really big) is that Akihabara and Harajuku are fusing and thus there are lots of anime spins in fashion. Also the influence of japanese Taobao resellers made a kawaii spin on chinese fashion, the June Kera was full of it.

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>>9133390

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>>9133391
Tv is flooded too.

>>9128890
So many people are getting into oldschool, I felt like you did last year but have seen a lot of attempts at oldschool this year, it's refreshing

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>>9134557
The surge of oldschool and clunky, fun coords really speaks volumes about the state of the fashion at the minute. Yeah, print themes have changed, but since what, 2010, maybe 2009, sweet lolita has been all prints. That's why classic surged for a while, and that's why oldschool has come back into vogue. A lot of people dislike "clunky" or otherwise unconventional coords, but the fashion needs them. We need them. It's good for us to take risks that we want to take in a fashion we wear. It's supposed to be fun. The rigidity of the fashion that came with brand being more widely available wordwide is unhealthy and damaging for the essence of the fashion. It sounds crazy, but there was more soul when people were making their own stuff, upcycling shirts into cutsews, whatever, instead of just buying ready made.

Something I love about a lot of old snaps is that they weren't always head-to-toe in lolita-specific brands, and they weren't always tied to a stiff aesthetic. In the G&L book we see so much handmade, so much brand mixing, in particular a lot of Vivienne Westwood, and it really hearkens back to the days of Lolita having a punk feel to it. Not necessarily in terms of the look, but the attitude.

http://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/vod/kawaii-i/20160730.html
Some report about the new underground harajuku fashions.

>>9136084
>http://www3.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/vod/kawaii-i/20160730.html
The narrator voice is grating but it's already looking interesting. Thanks for the link! Going to grab a snack and watch this.

>>9136084
Still watching, but it's interesting to see that cutesy pastel cat ears are just an accessory like any other (in the context of these specific fashions ofc). I guess the western association with greasy convention weaboos is what killed it outside of Japan?

>>9136116
>greasy convention weaboos is what killed it outside of Japan
Probably, more so the male ones with "hug me" shirts.

This will probably sound weird, but something I'd be really interested in is how much the various fashions cost, and whether or not it matches up to the regular income of the target audience.

>>9099445
I think it would be interesting to compare the evolution of larme with the "soft sister" trend. Soft sister was primarily Chinese iirc?

If no one else wants to I'll create the Google doc and link it here. I'll have it set to public with moderated edits (because I don't want some shitposter to ruin the entire doc and have to start over). Do we want organize by year, style, era, or what?

>>9136319
The origin of Soft Sister (Huan Mei) is Weibo and its name is pretty much derived from a name that could be called the chinese equivalent of the name Lolita.

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>>9136084
Thanks for the vid, they went to some really cool stores, just a same they peppered it with weebs...

Posting pic to stay vaguely on topic

Does anyone know what's sparking the resurgence of Ganguro? Black Diamond and other groups have been popping up over the last year and I've been wondering why is it now coming back?

>>9136505
Because it easier to have a stable income as ganguro these days.

>>9136308
Same here

Anyone doing the spreadsheet yet?

>>9136332
I think it should be better to start by year.

>>9136522
What should I start with? Moga's first origins in the 20s?
Right now it's going to be:
>Pre-1950
>1950s and 60s
>70s
>80s
>90s
>2000-2005 (so much happened I feel like it'll be easier to break the 2000s down a little more)
>2005-2009
>2010-Now

>>9136519
I am, I'll link it once I have more stuff filled in.

>>9136084
Anyone know a way I can download this video?

>>9136659
I like it a lot anon! maybe split 50's and 60's in their own category. Pre 1950 sounds fine.
And, maybe make a 2010-2015 and 2015- onwards? Idk to be honest

Here's the link to what I've got so far. If you have more info please comment with it and I'll add it to the sheet. So far I've only got two entries done but I only have been working for about twenty minutes.

>docs (dot) google (dot) (com) / spreadsheets / d / 1PAyIHywSqTMk1tMNWxyyLedIIh6caQ4OpDcO4tzXwQA/

>>9136953
Love it anon! Very good so far.
I wish this thread got more attention.

>>9102447
left is so perfect.
>>9102471
again, furthest left is perfection.
>>9104335
both are great.

>>9099245
KUNG POW KEI

>>9133390
>>9133391
>>9133393
Where can i find more of this?

>>9141438
You maybe want to follow https://twitter.com/teamsouseiji as everyone into that gets the bun covers from them.

>>9100998
What are the names of these styles?

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Some Pink House and Natural Kei. Not too sure when they started but I believe its around the mid to late 70s?

>>9136505
It's coming back? That's weird I thought it was dead forever

>>9141943
>>9141945
Holy fuck this is so pretty. I have always loved natural kei with its lovely aprons but this is nearly perfect omg. Thanks for sharing anon!

>>9148217
Like 1/4 of the https://www.youtube.com/user/KAWAIIpateen/ videos have been featuring Ganguros.

>>9141942
I can fill out the details on this when I have time. I'll have to trawl through wayback machine since I didn't save the links last time.

absolutely amazing thread

>>9153116
we are just trying to make this thread not die aren't we
Seriously I thought more people would jump into this

hi anons, I did this for a con panel last year (that I didn't end up doing), maybe you guys would like to use/edit it? If somebody wants to leave their email I can add them to the editors list or at least send them the login info! I hope this helps. ;w;

Keep in mind it is researched but not perfect >: hopefully somebody can help fix this up.

http://www [dot] tiki-toki.com/timeline/entry/495702/Japanese-Street-Fashion/

>>9150547
Apparently KP gave Black Diamond their own sister channel. I hope they keep posting content.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XphucOx1XF0

>>9104335
These are pretty cute