I am sort of at wits end with one of my dogs. He is a hound

>>2220319
Shoulda got a cat.

>>2220322
I have cats, and I have another dog, and she is awesomely behaved and an absolute joy to train.

Also if anyone has any suggeations, I will listen to them.

>>2220319
Choke chains are on not only less effective but also more dangerous as it simply chokes the dog out and can damage the trachea. With any training tool it is extremely important to actually read how it's supposed to work. Many people think they know how to use a prong collar, choke chain, shock collar etc. Always read up, find videos or talk to trainers before using training tools.

I literally typed 'how to get dogs attention' in Google
https://youtu.be/TJSGda3b3wA
Note how in the beginning there are two links to a few other videos. I'm guessing those are things your dog should know before you try doing that.

>>2220382
I actually used the chain under the supervision of a supposed professional. It choked him because of the frequency he needed correction, and he is just ao stubborn he will choke himself to snifr somewhere. He'll do it on a normal collar too.

I'll have to watch those videos, but I have tried training his name for eye contact. Again, cant reward him fast enough.

He is also not a puppy. He is a 2 year old rescue dog.

One last bump. Hoping someone has experience getting a scent hound to be more obedient outside.

OP, I remember you recommending bassets to someone on here. I told ya bassets suck.

>>2220422
I actually still stand by bassets. I think most of his issues are his crappy life up to this point. He escaped his first hoke twice where his foster found him both times. He was probably not even 8 months when she took him in. Judging thst a puppy escaped twice, he was probably an outdoor dog that wasnt socialized. Yet further, the foster said she literally never walked him. The walk I took him on the night I got him was probably the only walk he has ever been on. I get a feeling he was super badly socialized, and lacked the critical early training scent hounds get.

Im not blaming others for not being the best dog trainer, but I am working against the current.

>>2220429
so he's not very food motivated? I've heard bassets are. that's a shame.

poor pupper, good for you on taking him home. I don't have any experience training dogs outside of rewarding behavior with treats and praise, but don't give up! it sounds like he's pretty young so he can definitely be rehabilitated.

>>2220431
He's food motivated, but he just does what he pleases. He's very independent.

I could stop here and be happy with him and love him, but I also refuse to give up and want to make him the best dog I can. I dont want to give up, but I am unsure of what can be done.

Hi op... still around, I hope.

This is an attention building issue. Your dog sees you as a wall blocking his access to the environment as opposed to a key to his access to the environment. I assume since you've tried positive reinforcement you've done clicker training... the click precedes a reward. Doesn't have to be food or a toy. It can be access to the environment if that's the highest value thing in the scenario you are working in. If your dog pulls you toward a scent, you stop. Any pulling = stop. Wait until your dog stops pulling, even if thhe dog looks like he's gonna kill himself. it'll stop eventually even if a 15 minute walk takes an hour. If the dog is a heavy puller then you click for no tension on the lead then reward the dog by walking again. If your dog isn't a puller then you can just stop walking randomly especially if you know he's following a good scent. The dog WILL eventually start offering behaviours to get you to start walking again and if you've practiced the "watch me" command then he will eventually offer eye contact. Once you get to a point where he'll offer behaviours for you once you stop walking you can click and keep walking if you see him give you eye contact or paying attention to you in any way. I got my very aloof teenage dog to start looking at me during walks by doing this. I'd reccomend starting in a low distraction environment first. Think empty parking lot with patches of grass dispersed randomly everywhere. This is where I start my pup on any outdoor distraction proofing. I tried to start her in my yard not realizing that that was asking for too much and she completely blew me off and any commands I asked her to preform. And make sure anything you teach starts at home and the dog is preforming amazingly before you progress to the outdoors. Solid foundation is key.

A better thing with this is to combine it with attention building exercises. Look up kikopup "building attention" on youtube or "engagement" with micheal ellis

>>2221075
I am. This is excellent advice, thank you so much. And both the youtube videos you recommended are great. Thank you for typing this out for me. We'll start working on this all today on our afternoon walk.

>>2220319
>I've tried everything but prong collars and e-stim collars.

So try a prong collar.

Get a Herm Sprenger, size it properly, do some initial training indoors to teach the dog how to release pressure, and then take it outside and slowly increase your duration and distraction walking around.

This dude has a good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEnoPXgWG0U

>>2220386
The guide says puppies, it can work with adult dogs too.

If you can't reward in time, it sounds like you need to do clicker training.

>>2220319
>This never works because he is so aloof I cannot reward him in time short shoving a treat down his throat.

It's the MARKER that needs to be timed right, not the reward itself.

Whether you use a clicker or your voice, as a marker, as long as you have properly conditioned your reward to your marker, it doesn't matter when the reward is given, because the dog will anticipate a reward as soon as it hears the marker. That's the beauty of the marker system, as you can mark a behavior from across the room, or yard, and the dog will come running for the reward.

The bottom line is that the environment will always have competing motivators, and unless you're willing to motivate the dog with an aversive, you're going to have to increase the value of the food reward, or find a different reward the dog will actually work for in the environment. A simple way to increase the value of your food reward is to fast the dog for a day, and then use his food as training rewards the day after the fast while he's hungry. Then always wait to feed him until it's training time.