I've got a 3D printer and used to model in Rhino 3D (made

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https://www.behance.net/gallery/27812109/Print-To-Build-3D-printed-joint-collection

cute print mane :^)

there are no techniques really. all the industry standard printers have to use supports that you have to break and clean later on.

But some printers have two nozzles with two different materials; The fibre plastic material for the actual thing, and a seperate material for the supports which when you soak it in a liquid solution for 10 minutes diffuse in the water completely and give you a clean print with no support artifacts at all.

make a tiny hole in you model but still maintain good thickness

cute stuff op

If you're aiming for perfect, "raw" prints that you won't finish later by sandpapering, painting or w/e, always remember of those three letters: Y/H/T

Imagine printing those letters standing up. Each relates to a particular problem:
Y is overhang angle. If you count from the vertical, anything higher than 45 degrees is likely to warp a bit or "fall" for not having enough support from the last layer, amongst other things. Some printers can get up to 60 degrees angle, with good cooling and plastic, but 45 is safer.

H is bridging, is how far the filament can go between two towers before falling of and stay "hanging". This one is only critical above a certain gap, but you'd do good to avoid anything bigger than 1cm if you're perfectionist.

T is similar to H, but just a horizontal part perpendicular to a tower. It's best avoided.

Although all printers can do supports like >>527102 mentioned, the filament is likely to lay hanging over them and get a bad finish. Since the support towers always skip the last layer before the actual surface to avoid fusing to the object, they are better used in models with 0.1mm~0.2mm layers or below. the bigger the layer height, bigger will be the gap between the support and the object.

But that's more printing design than 3d modeling technics actually. Usually anything watertight is good since the slicers have correction methods to fuse the objects. Besides that, always pay attention to your actual geometry WITHOUT SHADINGS/SMOOTHING GROUPS, since that's what will be printed. You're better served with high poly models if you want high fidelity.

>Source: small business based on 3d printing and +2500h of printing under my belt

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My benchy came out a bit shit.

>>527101
What is this hideous waste of space?

>>527433
why does this happen ?

>>527440

Two reasons:

-The filament is either being extruded too hot or you're printing with no filament retratcion. That's the reason for the plastic strings, the nozzle is oozing during travels for either reasons.
-You need more cooling to avoid the melted look on the front and chimney. Set your fan speed higher if you're using PLA.

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>>527100

I've printed my first model today using Zortrax with 100 microns. It's finished in 22 hours and its 10x8x7 cm. Overall the quality is pretty good even though I'd go for a smaller micron size if I could.

Also I didn't have to use any supports poles while printing since the model was printed in 2 pieces and glued together later on. So if you're willing to trade-off a cutting line, you can print your model with very good surface quality without having to deal with any supporting artifacts.

>>527569

Trust me, going with a lower layer is usually not worth it. You'll never completly get rid of the layer lines, and on average, each time you half the layer height, you double the printing time.

100 micron is great, specially for a part with this size

>>527569
thats pretty awesome. 100 micron must be a pretty good resolution for small objects than

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You should focus on truss designs in all your models.

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I just started with my first 3d printer - I'm pretty impressed at how well it does so far. First model - 150 microns, no supports. I can go down to 50 microns but don't really see why I'd want to.

>>528294
dawwwww :3

>>528294
Prusa i3, by chance? That reminds me of the plastic I used and the models that came included with mine.

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>>528294

Looks good but with a tiny bit of underextrusion or bubbles in the filament. I can't really see in the pic but it looks a bit rough.

I have one just like it but in blue, I'll post pics tomorrow from the office

Also my machine can do 30 micron but I rarelly ever go lower than 100. I have done some stuff at 50 but most people who want something so small and so detailed will paint it anyways

Pic related, both 4cm high at 100 micron, one with 0.4mm and the other with 0.25mm nozzle

>>528298
Flashforge dreamer -using the PLA it came with.

>>528308
It feels smooth and solid to the touch, I think I just need to set the outer shell a bit thicker as you can see some of the infilled structure through the surface.

>>528310
Hmm, interesting. Can't say I'm familiar with that.

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>>528310
I usually go with 3 outer layers with the standard nozzle, a bit more for smaller but more for resistance than for looks

I made this skull with a 0.8 nozzle and just two shells and you can see the infill, but it's more likely that its due to the material not being 100% opaque

>>528308
I've been thinking of getting into wargaming by 3d printing things exactly like what you've got there.

Is that the highest quality sculpts you can get right now without shelling out thousands of dollars? I wouldn't mind paying under a hundred to get a bunch of good quality prints done at a print shop.

>>528375

check out shapeways, they have a high res resin

http://www.shapeways.com/materials/high-definition-acrylate?li=nav

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>>528378
Bretty good. Wish the price per model was a little cheaper but I'll keep this in mind.

>>528375

Those should be kind of cheap. Some stuff like resin look better, needing almost no finishing, but if you're going to paint them there's no reason for that.

Most printers are able to print at the quality of the one on the right, the one on the left that look sharper need a smaller nozzle to print but it's kind of a common mod

>>528375
>>528421

Oh and I forgot to mention, check Dutchmogul on Thingiverse, this guy has a lot of designs ready to print and if I'm right he also designed a game for his miniatures. Those dwarfs I printed are from his gallery

Can you print reliably with TPU filament yet? I want to make an otter box case design using it

>>529273
What IS TPU filament? I've seen it a bunch recently but not much info on its properties for some reason.

>>529300
Watch this anon
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugPpqggay-w

>>530582
wow I always wondered if there was a way to print soft bodies like that. Do you know if there is an even softer silicon-like material ?

>>530583

Look for ninja flex. It's the softer material I've seem so far. If you print anything without infill, it's really soft.

>>530623
looks nice but too sticky :\

>>530626
Sticky how? It's very "dry", it's not like silicon rubber for instante. The texture is kind of the same of any other PLA print, just way softer

>>527100
>Using Rhino
Maximum meme

>>530665
https://youtu.be/7_CNnaOf5B8?t=147
Watch from 2:29. It's really messy, not like the easily solidified PLA strands

polyplane.com/output

https://polyplane.myshopify.com/products/output

>>531624
>>531625
wtf is this