Scale Model General

>>6352153
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/103508-revell-04346-mikoyan-gurevich-mig-21f-13-fishbed-c

Only Revell 1/72 Mig 21 tooling I can find over there. 2004 ain't particularly ancient.

>>6352244
2004 was 13 years ago.

That is old, old man.

>>6352247
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/227586-revell-mig-21-pf-pfm
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/545079-revell-267-mig-21-pf

Those are old.

>>6352259
13 years is also old
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/103729-trumpeter-01611-new-fighter

Any tips for 1/72 armor? Only done 1/35 before

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>>6352285
the skills from 1/35 translate easily into 1/72. Just remember scaling down of weathering and get aftermarket barrels for most things with a muzzle brake.

everyone on youtube seems to use microset for decals, what are some alternatives you guys recommend?

>>6352398
>>6350450

Any tips for 1/35 armor? Only done 1/72 before

>>6352406
What kind of question is that?

What exactly do you want to know?

>>6352398
Vallejo has a decal fixer too, i have no complaints about it, but never tried anything else. It does the job i guess.

I might try a different brand once my bottle is empty, but that might take a few more years.

>>6352410
I usually only build 1/72 armor, a friend gifted me an Itareli 1/35 PZIV F1/F2, is there anything I should be prepared for or helpful tips?
It came to my mind when I saw >>6352296

>>6352420
Its not really a difference.
The kit is bigger, might has more details (i.e. more small parts) but that depends on the kit.

If you know how to build a 1/72 tank properly you can build a 1/35 too.

>>6352424
Alright then.
It does seems to be 4 times more time consuming.
>mfw mobile tracks and running gear.

>>6352406
>>6352285
Lol

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>>6352504
Nope, T-64 not planned for trumpeter 1/72 (yet)

I've seen the sprue pics for the modelcollect T-64BM, but haven't actually ordered one myself.

Only thing i remember is that turret is missing the coax port, you could always it yourself though, otherwise it seemed good

>>6352536
I am really looking forward for that IS-7

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>>6352536
Oh boy, T-62s! Finally.

>>6352540
shouldn't be a long wait, sprue pics are floating around

>>6352545
iktfb i've been waiting forever

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>>6352296
>be Zvezda
>decide to make the best 72nd scale Russian tanks
>make the tracks a horrible nightmare to put together

The drive wheel on the IS still haunts me.

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last page

>>6352555
their T-90 is by far the most detailed, but the hull's dimension issues inherited from the 1/35 kit were a major letdown

wish they'd make more non snap-fit kits

>>6352546
Can't wait, what's the best place to get trumpeter kits with international shipping? I used to get mines cheap from ebay but they seem to have gone up in price.

>>6352564
>That 107mm KV-2
T-Thanks

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>>6352540
It is already out, I am extremely disappointed with the kit.
The tracks and outer wheels are moulded
together WITH THE INNER WHEELS AS SEPARATE PIECES.

>>6352599
Well, that doesn't make much sense, but does it work? I am actually a lazy fag so I am ok with the wheels and the tracks being molded together as long as the molding is nice.
Most importantly, does it have 8 machineguns or not.

>>6352611
The mould is nice and crisp, but the elector marks are on the front side.
You have the whole entire arsenal with the top mounted monstrosity.
The main gun is moulded together with the muzzle brake, which you will need a 1.3 mm drill to turn it into the "cheese grate" type. Mantlet is one piece with the turret.
The tow hooks can hardly be called hooks since they are a slab of plastic, just like the lifting hooks on the turret, there is no tow cable, headlight covers and the tools are moulded into the side.
The 1/72 is-7 is a glorified snap-fit kit.

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Current project!!

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check this out they have some cool prototype in 1/72 but expensive.

http://tracks-n-troops.eu/shop/index.php?zenid=sne8fjm9sjfnuejett8bbppdg0&main_page=advanced_search_result&keyword=prototype&search_in_description=1&categories_id=&inc_subcat=1&manufacturers_id=&pfrom=&pto=&dfrom=&dto=&x=0&y=0


>>6352655
why says tractor when is truck?

>>6352697
Truck, yes. Tractor is also correct! Tractor/trailer. Don't know why it's called that though!

>>6352642
>main gun is moulded together with the muzzle brake
>Mantlet is one piece with the turret.
Uh sounds like a lot of work to make it work.

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Oh shit boys. What have I gotten myself into? My first model making attempt in 25 years is what.

I had this old Land Speeder lying around for one of the many times I contemplated getting into 40k. I'm going to use it as a test run/skills refresher before jumping into model fighter jets. The part that really baffles me is the painting.

>>6352768
God Speed anon! I would recommended a hobby knife and maybe some smoother abrasive element to make your life easier.

Painting is the fun part, specially on those kits, don't worry about it.

>>6352811
Yeah, and some tweezers too. I have big hands.

So after reading up on decals some sites say waterslides shrink as they dry. If I want a decal lined up on the edge of a turret or such, does this mean I need to extend the decal over the edge so it shrinks down to be flush?

Bandai just announced a 1/72 falcon!

>>6352768
montreal?

I have some old Revell planes, what kind of glue should I get? I was going to try the Revell brand, Tamiya, and Mr Hobby. Also where am I supposed to find all 15+ colors of paint in Yurop?

>>6352929
Never heard of it, makes sense tho.

>>6353487
Basically any brand of model glue would work, I do recommend the Revell Contacta because is really good. Colors? I assume Humbrol is all over Yurop

>>6353540
>Humbrol
Good to hear that's a good brand, they have all the colors I can't get from Revell. Revell made me nervous because the manuals mention using rubber bands to hold the model together while the glue dries, which implies the glue will take longer than a few seconds.

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>>6353540
Also, will 2 14ml cans of each paint be enough for a 1/48 Thunderbird?

>>6353549
>>6353546
I recommend Revell glue and Humbrol paints, that's what I use at least. And with any glue it is recommendable to hold the pieces after gluing, either rubber bands, or one of those plastic tweezers, it glues fast but takes some time to harden.

>>6353549
With airbrush one would be enough, possible two. Remember you thin the paints.

>>6352929
IT doesn't shrink all that much.

>>6353570
>you thin the paints
I did not know this. How much should I thin them? If I don't have an airbrush will a regular brush be fine?

>>6353579
I sincerely recommend reading the guide on the OP.
Yes you can use a btush, depending of the type of paint (acrylic, enamel, etc) you use a different thinner.
In order to paint with a brush you have to really thin your paints and do many layers. The first one will look like shit and you will think you are doing something wrong, wait for it to dry and do a second one, then a third one, at least 5.
I think this guy guides would help you a lot:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbV_ORs6160

>>6353584
>I actually forgot to read the OP in a general thread
Shit, sorry for wasting your time. Thanks for answering anyway, I'll go read the guide now.

>>6353587
Don't you worry, I sincerely recommend that channel's videos if you are planing on brush painting, I just noticed he also uses humbrol enamel.
Also, if it is your first kit I would recommended trying a 1/72 kit first.

>>6353591
I would rather do smaller scale, but I found 4 old models and the only one that isn't 1/48 is an off-brand 1/72 Black Hawk. Should I start with that?

>>6353596
I would say pick the one that looks easier to you. Definitively not the black hawk tho.

>>6353601
The Thunderbird says it's difficulty level 2 so I was going to start there.

>>6353604
Sound good then, you may conciser a different paint scheme but that's up to you.

>>6353607
What's wrong with the standard paint scheme?

>>6353620
The white-red-blue sound quite complex to mask properly

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1/72 IS-7
A mediocre job for a mediocre kit.
Knocked my brush water over the decals, only the star decals survived.

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>>6353793

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>>6353796

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>>6353798

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>>6353799

>>6353487
>>6353487
>>6353540
>>6353546
>>6353570

you noobs need to be using either mr hobby or Tamiya extra thin paints.
you just brush it over gaps and it seeps in between joining them.
no more trying to avoid getting glue everywhere.

humbrol and revell are not the best in terms of colour accuracy but will suffice for your first model.

>>6353801
>>6353799
Why is it so glossy?

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Done one side of the tracks. Not as hard as I expected.

>>6353218
Do I live in Montreal? No, Nashville.

>>6353549
Different anon wondering about paint consumption. I bought some pipets, about how many ml would one layer of paint be for a model that size?

>>6353955
Hard to say. One? two?

I want to join the Nazi Tank model club. What are the best ones to get?

>>6354115
Which tank and scale?

>>6354168
1/48, I have a couple WW2 models already. I don't know much about tanks, I tend to learn about my models as opposed to getting models of things I know.

>>6354175
>1/48

Sounds like Tamiya.

>>6354185
The ones I have? They're Revell.

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1950s Chevy pickup with a Cummins from a 70s Freightliner stuffed in it. Will be a rat rod, but it's not going to look as bad as it is now. I am keeping the big rims though

>tfw got my package from japan today

can't wait to go home

>>6354195
that's fucking terrible. you should be ashamed.

>>6354328
It's from an old kit that I got in a lot. It's a kit bash and a rat rod sort of. I like it, but I appreciate your concern!

>>6353900
Ligting
I was in a rush when I took the photos, it is directly placed under a led light.
Hopefully I will take better photos tomorrow.

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Did filters on the hull and turret. Pinwashed the hull and did some "extreme highlights" on some elements but the mix came like the base color and barely seen, put some white and came too light. Meh now I have to touch everything up ot leave it like this
>>6352214
That little thing is awesome every time I see it

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>>6353904
Done building this thing. This was a enjoyable build. A pretty small tank but plenty of detail. Still have to do a bit of toutch up work here and there before priming. 1/72 IBG Stridsvagn M/40L if anyone's interested

>>6352768
>25 years
How old are you?

>>6352564
Yeah that lower hull on Zvezda T-90 bothers me.The Terminator has the same problem I believe. If I build one I'll try kit bashing it with Revell T-90

>>6354523
41

>>6352768
>The part that really baffles me is the painting
>>6354561
well its not like there aren't enough tutorials around everywhere, including the thread op.
if you can shit in a nappy you can figure it out.

Question, what happens if you weather over decals without a varnish coat?

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>>6354573

Tfw your kit finally arrives in the mail and the seller packed the wrong one :(

>>6354576
my paints and kit are in the post, I'm asking because I can't find any tutorials of weathering without a coat.

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>>6354380
And done with the highlights. Next shadows and lights with oils and enamels.
>>6354582
What would happen is that you damage the decal and the paint job

>>6354586
Thats lookin really good my dude. Did you do that t60 (i think) a few months back?

>>6354573
I actually apply a gloss coat, decals, weathering and matt cote in that order.

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huh?!
it's just a box...

>>6353793
It's a good looking tank tho, really like the metallic edges.

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>>6354649
bubble wrap?
NEAT

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>>6354651
>tfw you finally get your stuff after one month of postage shenanigans

fuck the backlog, this baby goes first in line

>>6354652
A classic, good job.

>>6354652
>>6354651
>>6354649
>Three unboxing pictures for a basic 20 dollar kit

Is that really necessary?

>>6354627
A t-60? I don't know any tank with that designation.
I did the t-90ms, Lowe and btr80 and a Ferdinand and a kv1 ehkranami (or whatever that's called) here, all 1/35.
>>6354648
Don't you fear while working that you can break a decal or the paint?
>>6354652
I expected something more exotic after all your debacle desu

>>6354655
>>6354659
sorry, I live in a shithole where the only things you can get are very basic airfix and revell stuff.
long story short, I'm excited and I wanted to share it with you guys
>>6354653
thanks m8

>>6354659
Yea T90 that was it. I dont know my tanks very well

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What the shit? I opened up my Land Speeder to take a look at the kit and found that neither the parts nor the instructions contain any sort of numbering guide. IIRC all the kits I made as a teen had the parts labeled so you could make certain you had the right part in the right place. Do model makers no longer label their parts?

Also, I picked up a hobby knife, a tweezers set and some fine grit sandpaper. No thin cement though, so my model building may have to wait until I can order some from Amazon.

>>6354727
Get sanding sticks and more grits, also some replacement blades for your third or so build. Regular kits have instructions and are numbered as only a madman could build a +200 pieces kit just by looking at the sprues.
That said gw kits sometimes don't have numbered sprues as the pieces are rather "unique" and identificable. It should had some instructions tho

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>order kit from TopJapan
>ETA is three weeks

Is this normal for importing? I know it takes time but having to wait until July is a stretch.

>>6354820
I order shit from china from time to time and those wait times are normal.

>>6354727
normal models come numbered, but youre building some weird war game thing if I recall.

also extra thin isn't essential for your first model. but you def want some for future builds.
just put your glue on some foil and then apply it with a tooth pick for small parts.

lets see
cut off sprue with cutters u got those,
shave nubs with blade and sand paper check
assemble with glue check
mask for painting, u got masking tape?
paint, a brush ideally a flat one, a small round one for fine bits.

if u want to do more, add decals, you want clear coat, gloss
then add decals with decal softener and setter.

then finally flat coat the whole thing because small things are not glossy. except car models.

>>6354659
The paint would be protected by the acrylic gloss varnish so it's pretty safe, and never had a problem with the decals, I mean after they have dried you would have to scratch them or something to damaged them.
I must point out all my weathering is enamel based.

>>6354844
Thanks!

>>6354820
Yea man japan is a long way away

>>6354380
>>6354586
How is that kit? Did you get aftermarket tracks?

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>>6354401
Priming soon, my dudes

>>6354401
>Stridsvagn M/40L
That is an uncommon sight. What kind of paint scheme are you applying?

>>6352214
>My kit is on the OP
Oh boy-

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>>6355113
At first I thought of the Swedish one but then I decided on a Dominican Civil war one. This kit is pretty good and cheap. I'll buy a different kit to do a Swedish one and a Hungarian one.

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>>6354649
>>6354651
>>6354652
>>6354665
It's really sad because the best 1/72 F-14 was made specifically for the japanese market and it's quite hard to find.

>>6354727
>>6354844

Old GW stuff was never numbered nor had proper instructions.
They improved on that regard though.

(Not that it would be necessary since their kits are fairly easy in the first place with a part count of maybe 50 at max.)

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>>6355085
The kit (tamiya tiran-5) is what one would expect of newish tamiya kits. It builds itself and it's rather enjoyable.
Now for the bad things:
>no visors
>bad molding in cans and stuff like that
>vinyl tracks (well that's a general thing with tamiya)
>not even a sad grill PE, you get a mesh to cut like always
>no plumbing
>single marking options
>I'm not an rivet counting autist or I care much about this one but I'm sure some expert will see missing/wrong stuff
>pretty expensive for a reworked kit from their old ass t-54/5
The biggest flaw for me was the grill (bought a PE set for 8€) and the tracks.
If it had sideskirts I wouldn't mind, but the side view of a t-55 is tracks and turret so I had to buy some friuls (pic related after the burnishing fluid and some paint touch ups).
I would recommend the kit if you find it for 50€ (but good luck with that) or if you want to do this tank, but with takom or meng (can't remember) releasing a tiran-4 soon I don't know what to say.

>>6355478
Miniart is releasing a bunch of T-54 variants

>>6355505
Just checked it miniart is doing one as part of their t-54 releases with full interior and takom is making other using their previous releases too. Both tiran-4 so I guess tamiya is still the only tiran-5 out of the box.
The takom one has the sla blue scheme in the box so it means it has schemes for some interesting stuff, miniart one shows idf colors but surely have some sla one too.
I kinda wanted to do that blue pattern but the idf colors are quite unique too so whatever

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What are some obvious market niches to be filled?
My vote goes to a 72nd scale T-62.
Literally the only variation this far is the ancient esci one.
I don't have hopes for trump to release theirs since modelcollect still only have 3d renders and it has been years since they announced it.
72nd scale cold war tanks in general need love.

>>6355888
See >>6352536

>>6355888
Leopard 2A4 (ancient revell kits don't count)
Chieftain
BMP-2
PT-76

and trumpeter delivers, they've already released half that catalogue.

modelcollect promising shit and never delivering is like tradition for them

>>6355938
Pt-76
I am building one, can't remember the brand

>>6355939
its either ACE or PST, both 2003 limited run moulds

meh quality i hear

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>>6355478
Gonna start the chipping before what I want to do with oils and enamels, not sure if doing the highlight/shadows after the chipping and rust is a good idea.
Also in insight the extreme highlights better do them just after sealing the model before the filters or right after them, so washes tone them down a bit. The more you know.jpg
Gotta touch up the cans too as I half assed it too much.
>>6355888
It has to be 1/72?
If not I gotta say that amusing hobby, takom, tiger model, trumpeter and miniart are pleasing my dick greatly with all the prototypes and cool shit they are making. So my niche would be african shenanigan wars vehicles and troops. Some rhodesian scouts with that weird afv they had would be baller, or something form the multiple civil wars.
I know it's not particularly remarkable in the armored warfare aspect but 60s-70s-early 80s mercenary and rebel shit would hit the spot right now.
Takom is releasing the aml-60/90 and that thing and similar will be great.
Chinese armor would be nice too but there are some releases already from panda and early years trumpeter so maybe a revision of those.

>>6355944
PST.
It's ok actually, way better than ace anyways. Was thinking on doing a water diorama with the tank swimming, but I have no idea how to make clear water without spending 60USD on specialised resins

>>6355888
Sheridan
Shilka
Tunguska
Osorio
Argie's TAM
BMPT
M2 Moderna

>>6355989
BMPT is done by Zvezda already. Ibelieve there is no 1/72 CV90 and Leopard 2A4 is really lacking. Dragon one is discontinued and it was a pretty good kit

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>>6355961
I changed my mind and it was the right thing to do (I think), better do the color related things first and chipping later. Working on the front right now to test. I will have to be more precise with shadowing as this highlight (buff) serves as a soft pre-dusting, but the other thing can ""ruin it"" easily

>>6355938
>and trumpeter delivers, they've already released half that catalogue.

Let's see if they get the 1/700 Belfast out this time around.

>>6356003
>Ibelieve there is no 1/72 CV90

Yeah, that's one big fucking hole in the market. Bloody thing even did pretty well export-wise, so there's a few different variants to wring out of a base tooling.

>>6356003
I didn't knew about the BMPT.
No Leo2A4? U sure?

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Found this kit at LHS. Looks interesting

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>>6356158
GET. IT.
Bandai UCHG 1/35 kits are pretty rare these dayl very nice science fiction kits. I happen to have M61A5 kit in 1/35 and its worth it.
Its one of those science fiction kits that are trying to be realistic when it comes to thireir market.

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>>6356473
Im drunk. What I mean is that they are kits of types of vehicles that get jobbed in their gundam universes, but they are pretty well made and in good scale so you shouldn´t just give up on them.

I can see we're gonna have an armor thread this time around, and I have no problem with this. Also an update on the Hitachi DRV, Some matte varnish I have absolutely fucked it and made everything lumpy and textured, and my paint thinner wont eat through it, I think I fucked it boys, is there any hope?

>>6356492
Posting images is free ya know.
You can always use gloss varnish to "flatten" the surface. Worst case you get an indestructible shinny thick coating, but you will probably end with a satin finish. You could also sand it with very high grit papers so you don't damage details and the paint.

Whats a good flesh base tone for 1/6 figures?

>>6356134
There's that shitty Matchbox one that Revell reboxed. There was one by Dragon but it's long out of production. I really want one. It was a good kit and had markings for the Finnish army. I hope someone releases a 1/72 Leopard 2A4 in the coming years. It's strange how there is none new tooled ones on the market. There were plenty of 2A5 and upper released but no 2A4. I wonder why

Just a few last details to hand paint in, then I can varnish, have it cure until tomorrow, and get on with washing and some weathering.

What that my hands, you've decided it's Parkinson's awareness day today? Well ftguijujuccokik thhsjewnen-,.

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>>6356016
And done with the highlights and fading. I made a bit of shadowing but I can't even see it much irl but is there. I would say that this step could be done as I did after washes and filters as a dusting or before those as a more elaborate color modulation. I will try that for the king tiger and see how it goes next month. Also I overdid it from what I had in mind as I wanted this color to be the paint fading and another as a base dust, but it just looked right so I kept going and later I'll give dust a bit of contrast using several pigments
>>6356591
Any color you want?
A bit more info lad, what brands do you like or have access to? Airbrushed or brushed? Pale, pink, olive, Asian, black fig?

>>6357186
Airbrush or brush, doesnt matter. I currently use tamiya for 1/35 but I dont think itll scale up correctly. Fig is white/russian. Bought some vallejos too but they don't look quite pink enough

>>6356591
I can only recommend AK interactives "flesh and skin" paint set.

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>>6357219
It matters as I wouldn't do brush work with tamiya anymore and you can't airbrush oils m8. If you already have a Vallejo set then try to mix it with a bit of white/cream and pale pink. Flesh colors that I've used are Vallejo, citadel and nocturna models (custom colors made by Vallejo so Vallejo again). If pic related tone is what you're going for (dismiss the obvious putrefaction, etc) I can link a good tutorial and the Vallejo colors I've used.
Painting flesh with oils is something I want to try this summer too.
And get glaze medium whatever you use (as long as they are Vallejo style acrylics as with tamiya won't work)

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>>6357305
And the same colors but going for a pale pinkish look. (The pic wasn't dry but you get the general idea)

>>6357320
>>6357305
Yea I dont handbrush tamiya. Dont have any experience with oils outside of washes and streaking. Not really sure how to just paint with them.

Anyway, I picked up some flow enhancer and glazing medium and hopefully thatll help

>>6357436
Then follow the tutorial that I followed to do the blightkings and lord of plague, it will give you a base to follow even if you don't do warhammer stuff

https://youtu.be/Qg_v-A_A6kU

Has anyone used the mr color lacquer clear coats over vallejo paint or the vallejo gloss varnish?

I find the mr color clear flat looks quite a bit flatter than I can get the vallejo flat to look, so I prefer it.
I wonder if there are any issues with the combination and how long I should wait until I apply the mr color over the vallejo products.

Sadly neither are as flat as the original color (vallejo model air nato black).

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>>6355102
Main painting is done

>>6357681
You shouldn't have any problem

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>>6357436
>>6357305
>tamiya is not good for hand brushing

explain.jpeg

as someone who just restocked on acrylics, this concerns me

>>6357750
Dries a bit too fast, uncooperative consistency. Takes some work with thinning and retarder to whip them into shape.

>>6357754
I assume then that diluting them on water is a no-go...
good to know, I'm used to working with mig jimenez and those are really straightforward

>>6357759
>I assume then that diluting them on water is a no-go...

People keep saying so, but it's actually what I tend to do, since the water doesn't evaporate as fast as Tamiya's alcohol based thinner. Mixes together nicely enough at least, though the right consistency is tricky to hit. Maybe it'd work better with their thinner and more retarder, but I haven't gotten around to doing a recent test on that.

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Some harsh language and re-srating later, decaled and varnished, ready for the oils.

The gloss coat really doesn't do it any favours.

>>6357750
It just isnt. Its great for airbrushing though

>>6356158
I never realised how huge the hover-truck is, that looks bigger than a maus.

>>6357812
Looks really good tho The Photoetched rails really help it.

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>town has local stock car racing shop complete with track in and outside the building
>owner has two entire shelves packed to the brim with ancient kits
>most are in good condition save for a missing decal sheet or all parts being completely removed from the sprues
>Grab an old Otaki Focke Wulf for $15
>Desk guy says they're buy one get two free
>Wait for real
>Yes
>this place is actually giving shit away to get it off their hands
>they even have 3 dozen nascar kits still in the plastic
>mfw I leave with a Monogram B17, the Otaki and a Hasegawa Tony fighter in 1/48 for under $20

Finna clean this guy out come payday

6357963
>Monogram
hell nah

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What colors should I use to do a Luftwaffe paint job when I only have access to Testor/Model Master spray cans?

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>>6357968
This is the one I'm referring to. Green parts and all

>>6357963
WHERE

>>6356473
>>6356478
Makes me wonder if someone is gonna take up the challenge to make that one-off T61( Unicorn version) with the beam rifle turret on it.

Got my model primed and tried painting it, but now I'm all sorts of confused. I thinned my paints about to 1:1, held it a few inches away, kept the flow light, brush moving etc.

And when I was done, I had a nice coat of paint on the model. However, when I went to go feel it it was very rough? Basically felt like the primer that I put on.

I think I fucked up, but I am trying to figure out where. I used mr. surfacer 1200, should that feel smooth to the touch when I put it on? Should the paint actually be rough and then use a gloss topcoat make it glossy?

I tried to go back over some areas with even more paint thinned down even more, and made it feel somewhat "glossy" to the touch, but the underlying rough texture never really went away...

I'm using leveling thinner and Mr. color paint, but I don't know if the issue was my thinner or something else.

Any ideas?

Anyone here uses Badger Stynylrez for their models? If you do use it, do you manage to use lacquer paints on top?

>>6357969
Model master at least makes the RLM colors (you're looking at RLM 75 and RLM 74), but I don't think they come in an aerosol can. You could probably get by substituting gunship gray for RLM 75 (grauviolett), but it doesn't have the voilet tint. RLM 74 (graugrün) is a bit harder, since I can't think of any testors color that's close. Your best bet would probably be dark green or olive green over a very black base.

Luftwaffe color schemes don't really lend themselves well to can-painting, unfortunately.

>>6358199
I've had decent results with Mr. Color lacquers on top of Stynylrez, but only when you give at least 48 hours to set before spraying the lacquer. Otherwise you can get some nasty cracking.

>>6357963
>I got trash for free
Good job

Anyone have experience in making an anti-slip surface? I want to do it in 1/72 on a german modern armor kit so the coat should be pretty uniform.

>>6358302
I've been very frustrated trying to achieve an opaque white using Stynylrez White. I can't get it within 3-4 coats, more like within 10.

If I don't thin down my stynylrez it builds up much faster into phlegm in the airbrush, so a lot of flushes and cleanups between passes tend to happen. tl;dr I use distilled water only and there is no difference even with Vallejo Flow Improver

As for lacquers? I'm really tempted to just even out and buff out the dust and dings with super high grit first, and then? Break out the Mr. Finisher Base White and go with whatever opacity I've achieved with the white stynylrez, what do you think?

>>6358336
Oh and, Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner is really, really good at cleaning out gummed up Stynylrez. It's like the cough syrup to the phlegm. The distilled water thing is about thinning out the primer, btw.

Though people rave about Medea Airbrush Cleaner, I haven't tried it, so has anyone else tried here?

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How are the Initial D Plamo cars? I've been thinking of building one but I was wondering if anyone here had first hand experience on building them.

>>6357963
Trains, Lanes and Hobbies? North of Bethlehem PA? I used to live close by there years ago. The place was a fucking mess always, just kits stacked up aimlessly all over the place, covered in dust, no real organization, but they did carry a nice stock of decent kits, not a lot of newer stuff though.

That said, there's something about those grimy, messy hobby stores with kits stacked up disorganized that I just love browsing through, hunting for a nice kit to build. That feel doesn't really exist anymore because I order everything over the Internet these days. I still use my own local hobby shop for paint and tool supplies and whatnot though.

>>6358190
>Not making it into a version with a single 120mm cannon like a true realism-fag

>>6352398
Tamiya's Mark Fit is really good. I would highly recommend it

>>6357957
Yeah, railings seem to be a huge thing for ships. Certainly helped this one a lot, putting plenty of detail up front to be noticed instead of the decidedly plain superstructure behind it.

>>6358581
Even more importantly I think it conveys the sense of scale. At least it made me realize how huge ships aren't even that comparatively small destroyer

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>>6358195
>Should the paint actually be rough and then use a gloss topcoat make it glossy?

Depends on if it's a matte or gloss paint.

Also, if you put a gloss paint on top of a matte coat, then the matte texture can "shine through", here shown highly exaggerated with red paint over a blue primer. From what I've understood you're never going to get a "car showroom gloss" paint coat on top of a rough primer, every coat (primer, paint, varnish) has to be gloss and smooth for that.

>>6358195
If you used Matte paint is gonna be matte.
Some good layers of gloss varnish will make matte paint glossy.

>>6358589
That too, yes. I have little extra planned for that part as well, but we'll take that when we get there.

>>6358395
Just discovered this place last week and its very well organized. Probably the best hobbyy shop Ive ever been to

>>6358598
>>6358608
I was using Mr color black mixed with a few drops of grey (the grey was labeled semigloss I think?)

As far as a smooth primer goes, does this mean sanding down the primer or using something other than Mr surfacer?

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>>6358371
i've built the aioshima ae84 kit with the full engine modeled, suspension, steering and various custom parts. was a good kit, went to together well and is quite solid when fully assembled

>>6358839

Mr surfacer 1200 shouldn't be super rough to begin with. The 1500 is smoother, though.

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>>6358861
a pic of it

>>6358866
Maybe I'll order some of that.

Anyway, should I start over, what's the best way to strip Mr color? Alcohol and a toothbrush?

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Done.

USS Charette, DD-581. Sold to Greece in the fifties, renamed Velos, and can now be found as a museum ship in Faliro just outside of Athens, though with a number of changes from her appearance here.

I wonder how thick the cables in the rigging are in reality, because the "super fine" rig thread I got, yeah, it's super fucking fine. 10 microns, 7mm in scale.

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For scale, there's three seamen standing below the forward torpedo launcher here. Look for the white caps. So as was said above, even something as diminutive as a destroyer (as these things go) still isn't a small thing. Over a hundred meters long and sixteen times the mass of a Maus.

>>6358899
>>6358904
It looks good, but i don't know if it's the lighting but the navy blue just looks a little too dark, but good job nonetheless. You should make a sea base for it.

>>6358904
it looks really boring desu.

>>6358899
Looks way too dark m8

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>>6358861
>AE84

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>>6358962
Deck colour was a DIY mix, so yeah, that might have ended up a bit off. Didn't have any real life example of the recommended paint to aim for. Side colour is actually lighter than the recommendation I found ( http://www.ipmsswamp.com/files/VallejoWWIINavalColorEquivalents.pdf ) using the lower grey here while the upper was supposedly spot on.

>>6358336
>>6358338

White paints are shit in general. I typically go over Stynylrez or Mr. Surfacer grey with tamiya flat white once or twice if I want to whitebase something, but the effect does still leave something to be desired.

Medea airbrush cleaner is pretty good (gets rid of acrylics and even the weird tamiya acrylic pretty quickly) but it won't take out lacquers or enamels, so you'll still have to keep some solvents on hand for those. the main advantage is that it's super cheap to get a 32 oz. bottle of it, which lasts forever.

>>6359167
Looks like I'll have to stick to Tamiya AB cleaner to flush out Stynylrez and in the future, Mission Models primer.

I wonder how opaque the latter is?

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Done with chipping and rust. I didnt plant to do that much but it just didn't look right to me so I did more. I like em like that, if they don't look like they went to hell and back it ain't mine.
>>6358899
Why so dark all?

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>>6359233
>Why so dark all?

Because as far as I can tell the '45 revision measure 21 was bloody dark, and possibly because I couldn't be arsed to drag the desk lamp somewhere I could fit the background. Let's see if this looks better, clutter and all.

>>6359246
That's better anon, on the previous pic it just looked like dark grey everywhere

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I'm building the Takom V1 Maus, it's a mostly good kit. The workable track was great to assemble, there are some great textures. But the dummy turret on this seems very lacking. It's entirely hollow and the interior covered in ejector pin marks, no texture. It's like they just forgot to think of the inside, leaving it flimsy and toy like. I gather it was a concrete 50 ton weight, so it should be fairly solid.

I've fitted it out with plastic card at a guess of what it could have looked like, having failed to find any photos of the inside.

>>6359233
I really like your rust work, anon how do you do it?

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>>6359296
The kit comes open top or it's closed? Also speak of unusual kit choices, the v1 with that weight test turret is one that I always though "someone would build this kit?" and here we have some brave anon doing it.
If I might influence you that turret looks like a baller improvised mobile bunker or command post...
>>6359305
Here you have a pic with all I've used and another view of it.
Basically I went from old to new (dark to light) rust starting with a brush in some areas where I wanted more then I added some lighter (new) rust to the mix towards the edges of the chip to represent the fresh rust. When I wanted the sponge look I used the same color system but dabbing the sponge.
If you have more questions or want closer/other pics just ask

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>>6359329
It's completely open, there's no way to hide anything of the inside. So it has to look solid.

It's a funny choice for a kit, but I've built a regular Maus kit before and I like the idea of having this one surrounded by officers and men in suits with briefcases.

>>6359167
I managed to get in some spraying time today.

If I just *slightly* thin down the Stynylrez primer, and don't wuss out on the PSI and thickness, I can get pretty close to opaque white in 3-4 coast as expected.

The only tricky bit is scooping out the mixture into the paint cup, because that thickness translates to a teeny amount that comes down only in droplets.

I was wondering why the other thread was so quiet..

>>6359488
What other thread?

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>>6352214
This is one of my finished pieces of work

>>6359511
The old thread. No one linked this new one and I just kept the tab open and checked it once in a while.

>>6359546
>No one linked this new one
you lying little bastard.

>>6352217

>>6359574
Oh. I missed that. It got bured in some posts.

>>6358891
>Start over
Just try gloss varnish. I apply humbrol acrylic gloss over my kits, which are painted with matt paint over shitty hardware store primer, in order to prepare them for weathering and decals, and at that stage they end up looking like gloss cars.

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>>6358904

Got bored while waiting for a kit in the mail so made a small base for the ft17. Its not perfect but it was a good way to waste an hour and it gave me some good ideas. Pictures dont do justice to the color of the wood

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>>6359643

Kill me, I just spent all my money on supplies due to that stupid going out of business sale for hobbywave.

I don't even need half of this probably.

>>6359296
Got to remember that no one knows what it looks like inside since the original turret and plans were lost

>>6359296
I've got a good book on the Maus, I can post some pictures next week (currently on vacation)

Afaik the test turret had an instrument panel for all the electric system readouts, also one or two sensible cameras, that needed to be protected when not in use. I've got pictures of the instruments and what they do, too.

My paints package arrived in the post, now I have;
Tamiya light grey primer and flat black.
Humbrol 1117, 63, 65, metal core and precison poly cement.
some older paints I have left over vallejo black shade and magic blue.
citadel mournfang brown, mephiston red, agrax earth shade.
It's sad how half my citadel pot paints dried up because I haven't used them in so long.

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>>6359296

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>>6360289
Looks like there's a partial roof

Wish I could find a bigger pic of this one

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>>6360308
This is the turret ring from the Kubinka Maus -unless there are Maus parts laying around somewhere else I haven't heard about

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>>6360319
Taken from the mouth where the gun fits through

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>>6360308
>>6360320

Slightly better

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>>6360329

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>>6360330

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>>6360345

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I asked about a Typhoon kit a few weeks back.
Look what Takom just made :)

>>6359814
Whatd you get?

>>6360308
>>6360329
>>6360330
>>6360359
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoxF29RI2Bs
What were they thinking?

>>6360443
autism is a hell of a drug

>>6360443
They were testing the tanks terrain performance.

You don't know what it takes to stop it until you're stuck.

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>>6357696
The thing I love about armor kits is how very few decals they usually have

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>>6360330
>>6360359
>>6360345
Some great pictures I've not seen before, nice resources.

It clearly looks like there's a flat roof that hinges back on itself. Rather more complex than the kit suggests. However, the shapes and shadows I'm seeing also suggests that the walls inside are straight as I've attempted to model in plastic card.

>>6360207
That sounds ideal, if you can find such photos, descriptions or just the title of the book I would be very grateful. I have the Schiffer book (pic attached) somewhere and I don't recall anything this useful.

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>>6360257
slav truck was in the post but I wasn't home to collect it, gonna have to stop by the post office tomorrow.
Can't wait to start painting.

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I would like to buy a plamo of the Mutsu battleship, but I don't know who makes the best version of the ship, Aoshima or Fujimi? Anyone got one of those and can comment on the quality of the kits?

>>6360716
Ayy. I got the same one started

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>>6360731
Since we're friends now, how do you do this dirty/dusty effect on the tires?

>>6360614
The book is in German, it's called "Panzerkampfwagen Maus, der überschwere Panzer Porsche Typ 205" by Motorbuch Verlag. I don't know if there's a translation.

>>6360722
What scale?

>>6360738
Not him, but you can try airbrushing a light coat of a dusty / dirty color over a rubber black, and then do further weathering with pigments for the crevices.

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>>6360750
>What scale?
As far as I know Aoshima and Fujimi only made the 1/700 scale
>Aoshima
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10003957
>Fujimi
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10106871
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10135082

>>6360755
Fujimi looks nice, honestly I'd go with them, not that I think Aoshima is bad, but I've never built any of their kits before and I've never had issues with Fujimi.

>>6360761
>I've never had issues with Fujimi.
Have you worked on the Mutsu or a similar ship (the Nagato) or any other battleship from the same line? How is the fitting of the parts? Are the models usually accurate?

>>6360748
>Panzerkampfwagen Maus, der überschwere Panzer Porsche Typ 205

I think this is an English print, superb!
http://www.schifferbooks.com/kampfpanzer-maus-the-porsche-type-205-super-heavy-tank-6031.html

>>6360750
what if I don't have an airbrush

>>6360773
It seems like it- the book is written by the same person.
It's a good read, though quite expensive.

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>>6360781

>>6360781
Oils, enamels, glazed acrylics...

>>6360738
mix pigments with water, brush it heavily over the tires and the pigment will settle in the deeper parts of it.

>>6360855
if I don't have pigment, is there a diy solution?

>>6360864
gather earth/dust from outside and grind it.

>>6360864
chalk

>>6360864
Makeup

>>6360802
It looks like a labour of love from the author, and I love the Maus, the silly monstrosity that it is. So I'll likely get a copy.

>>6360770
Haven't built either of those, my experience is more from their dds in 1/700 which are not too bad. Their recent kits from what I've seen are pretty nice as well (Warship Next line), but still inferior in detail to Hasegawa in my opinion. Still, if you're building in 1/700 it's almost essential to use a photo etch set to at least make up for the low amount of detail in such a small scale.

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Remora guy here. Just got my birthday present to myself delivered. First large scale figure

>>6361004
>Still, if you're building in 1/700 it's almost essential to use a photo etch set to at least make up for the low amount of detail in such a small scale.
Looks like there is no photo-etched parts for the Aoshima kit.
I wonder if the Fujimi p-e parts will fit on that (it is cheaper).

>>6360716
>>6360738
Different anon, built the Grad version.
Either I am retarded or instructions were shit. Also couldn't make it for all wheels to level.

>>6360408
literally everything, pretty much one of each color they had in stock, 6 or 7 bottles of thinner, top coats, and tools (sandpaper putty etc)

>>6361498
Nice!

This is probably a silly question but I figured it's worth asking: if I strip the paint of an area I screwed up painting on, can I reprime and repaint over the painted area (that overlaps where I stripped paint from) and make it somewhat uniform?

>>6358869
ohh, that looks like it builds well. I'll have to think on ti.

>>6361510
It's very hard.

Trust me when I say it's probably easier to strip the entire piece and re prime and paint than to attempt a spot repair

>>6361526
That's unfortunate... as its all glued together I had a hard enough time just stripping the one section.

maybe I can strip it in something that looks sorta convincing weathering or maintenance or something.

>>6361007
This should be pretty cool.When are you starting it?

>>6360716
plastic is very brittle on ICM truck kits, good luck getting the axles out of the sprue without breaking them in a million pieces

>>6361686
This looks like a job for memehands nippers.

>>6361510
you don't need to strip. people don't always strip cars to repaint. just give it a wet sand, then see what it needs from there,

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>>6360614
There's a both a 1/72 unassembled injection molded kit and a prebuilt diecast model of the 205/1 put out by Dragon. There are a few pics out there of them that shows a wall off section in the front and hints at a forward enclosure.
I don't know how accurate they are but here's a review of the kit:
http://www.missing-lynx.com/reviews/small/maus_fdesisto.html

Picture is of the kit

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>>6362106
Here's the diecast

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>>6361583
Just started. The sculpting and level of detail casting is incredible

>>6361531
try to use panel lines and masking to your advantage if that's the case, but it will most likely bulge over the background after you're finished

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>>6356498
Finally got back around to working on it - check this bullshit out. Oh and the decals for the windows (!?) Are way too fucking big and leave seams everywhere. This shit is a mess

>>6362110
Do you have much experience in figure painting?

>>6362304
Only in 1/35. Ive been doing loads of research on glazing and blending so I'm feeling very confident on the face

>>6362106
I have one of the Dragon 1/72 kits, it's decent for the price, but even in your picture I see errors, such as the additional shields on the hull either side of the main one. These are only one the V2 Maus. I don't think the interior is correct - the roof of the 'turret' appears to have fold back panels, it's not solid towards the front as the small dragon kit and Accurate Armour 1/35 have modelled. I'm getting the Maus book recommended by anon above that will hopefully solve this any make it more straightforward. I'm invested now in getting it right so hope the book will help.

I might just get a normal Maus after this and go mad, octopus camo, IR gear and whatever.

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>>6360716
one trip to the post office later

>>6362390
>>6360716
Both of these posts are exactly the fucking same.

This isnt your blog

>>6362395
sorry I got carried away.

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I'm not into model making, but last time i went to Chinese Freight i saw some airbrush tools, has anyone here tried them?

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=Sort+Price%2Ct&q=airbrush

>>6362461
Yea, I used one for a while. Olits not bad but siphon fed really isnt good. Ended up buying a badger patriot after about 6 months when the airbrush broke.

Compressor lasted a little bit longer but it eventully quit working as well

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Do you guys know the difference between these two Sdkfz 251/9 "Stummel"?
I want to build one, but i can't figure out if they are two entirely different vehicles, or an early version and a late one (maybe the higher one was early and they improved/lowered the silhouette later?) or maybe even vehicles from two different factories.

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how do I unclog the needle in this thing.

>>6362565
The left one is a SdKfz 251/9 with a 7,5cm K 51 L/25 Ausf. D as build in June 1942.
The right on is also the Ausf. D typ but it was the last production variant and had the side armor extended into back to protect the crew.
The gun was the same

>>6362577
heat it with lighter

>>6362577
Push a length of brass rod down the tube

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Making some dually flares for a 55 Apache truck I'm working on.

Anyone got an CCCP decals? Scale is not important. The only good ones im finding are for like 16 buvks and I don't wanna pay that much for one decal

>>6362577
Push a sewing needle through it.

>>6362736
paint it yourself, it is not hard.
Make stencils

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>>6362390
Day 1 slav truck progress.
Put on a podcast worked until it's night, my hands are full of glue and I cut myself a couple times.
I missed this.

What does alclad steel look like? Cant find a clear pic online. Bought a bottle off amazon and no matter how much I shake it it just looks black or really dark grey

>>6362909
I bought some stainless and it looked black too... not used it.
switched to ak extreme metal series.

What are you guys' setup for spray painting, I have some spray primer and I never used it.

>>6352716
>>6352697

Tractor means pulling vehicle. A Tractor-Trailer is a vehicle in two halves, with the front half pulling the load on the back. This is the Tractor of a Tractor-Trailer, hence the name. The Trailer would be a large container with wheels.

>>6362778
Negative. This has to look better than hand painted and its too small to hand mask. This is more difficult than I thought.

>>6360781
pretty sure right protocol is to buy and airbrush in that situation

>>6362649
>>6362768
>>6362662

Can confirm tweezers and lighter works best

>>6362577
>poly cement
>clogging

It must be a high-resin content plastic cement, or it's actually CA glue.

Does plastic seem to "weld" with it?

So my LHS has Mr. Retarder and Mr Color Thinner, but no leveling thinner. Can I mix these together to get the same thing? if so, what sort of ratio should I use?

>>6363128
If you've never used the product, why speculate?

It is polystyrene cement, same as revell contacta and tamiya plastic cement

>>6363128
fuck off, retard

>>6362904
It's all well and good to go fast, just don't cut corners and don't do a rush job. Easiest way to burn out.

Other than that, welcome back.

>>6362909
I'll spray some spare parts tonight and show you. Alclad notoriously looks darker in the bottle than on a piece.

>>6362992
If using can primer and you don't have a specific setup, take it outside in a wind sheltered area and set the piece on some cardboard or mount them on sticks.

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>>6362725
Getting closer

Which do you guys prefer using, a choice between the Winsor & Newton Galeria varnish or Alclad Aqua Gloss?

What's the cons of the Galeria varnish?

>>6363813
ones for varnishing canvases and ones for scale models.

it will be thick no doubt, too thick to airbrush, and may clog model details.
use the correct tool for the job

Is Testors Dullcote really that harsh on paint, and very coarse on top of that?

>>6363842
Yes. Laquers dont work well on non laquers and any flat surface is rough. Thats what makes it flat

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>>6360581
Wash done

>>6363977
The little thing is coming along nice

>>6363977
what did you use?
looks really nice

>>6363128
It happens with the plastic cement too. Try the Ravell for example.

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>>6360359
>pulled itself out with it's own power
i don't know why this made me happy, like it's a zoo animal being rescued

still waiting for a 1:48 Stratofortress

>>6364214
seen this?
http://www.sangereng.co.uk/boeing_52.htm

youre not going to get a plastic kit at that scale.

Has anyone looked at this sale? http://hlj.com/anniversary-june-07
I r new so I really can't tell if there's anything (begginer friendly) worth buying

>>6364227
Not that guy, but wow... that website design takes me back to 56k modem era.

Goddamn I forgot how hard it is to brush paint an even fucking layer

After spraying Stynylrez close to Badger's recommended consistency, I'm actually convinced they only tested it with their basic cheap #200/350 siphon sprayguns.

Using it on 0.5 Patriot forced me to deep clean the airbrush in the middle of my session. It was horrid trying to pinpoint the source of the clogging and pry out the rubberized chunk.

I think I'll stop chasing opaque whites with white Stynylrez, and instead probably do it with Mission or Tamiya's White Primer... or just use Grey Stynylrez and follow it up with Mr Finishing Base White?

Theoretically, this should work decently with Kotobukiya kits which mix ABS and PS parts in jumbled and weird, load-bearing ways. Stynylrez would be a great, eggshell-tough barrier before lacquer.

(read: Xenoblade X skell kit)

What do you guys think?

>>6364242
Putting together a wet pallette. Hopefully thatll help

First time painting a large figure. What can I improve? Ignore the gloss, its from the glazing. I'll tone it down later.

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>>6364512
God fucking dammit

>>6364116
AMMO stuff

>>6364675
steps pls, looks fucking A

>>6360722
Both are very good for 1/700 scale ships. The Aoshima mold is pretty new (2012-ish), and the Fujimi mold is I think mid-2000s, but again both are done well. Fujimi puts more emphasis on porthole cover molding, while Aoshima has better hull straking.

I like the 5-inch DP guns and AA guns in the Fujimi kits because they're more detailed, but I think Aoshima's are truer to scale. I'd pick Fujimi if you want the nicest looking model and Aoshima if you just want a fun, quick build.

>>6364864
>>6364864
>>6364864

Good to see we have a decent user base now.
This one filled up quickly

>>6364346
Never used stylinrez so I don't know. I used mr surfacer 1200 and it was mixed results but with a positive outlook which just requires more testing from me, I always use Vallejo grey primer and never had troubles but a lot of people don't like it. What I mean is use whatever primer you like/know how to use and then airbrush it white color.
Why do you need a white primer anyway if you're going to paint on top? Also tamiya/mr surfacer will make a better job at getting a grip anyway
>>6364514
I like it so far, but until is dry I can't say as things won't look exactly the same. Big figures are more work but leave room to better detailing and are comfy and easier to work. Maybe, depending on what you're after with the dude, you might want to add some pinkish tones to cheeks and nose or make a more contrasting work between highlights and shades to make him look tired

>>6364893
>Why do you need a white primer anyway if you're going to paint on top?

Car/bike kits depend most on having white primer.

Protip: Paints are never truly opaque, their color is modulated by underlying layers. That's why it's hard to paint with white... unless you have white primer beneath.

>>6364893
I use white primer so I can preshade it with black afterwards.

>>6362613
Thank you. Thats exactly the info i needed.

>>6364242
Not too bad with acrylics if you go really thin with multiple layers but it's tedious. I've found oils to be troublesome though. A little goopy and loses a lot of opacity when you thin it but the bigger issue is it will start to blend up again if you apply a new coat over the top. Might be able to work it out with a different approach and smooth with a really soft brush.

>watch quick kits livestream
>everything is nice
>camera backs off
>FUCKING GIRLS IN MY MODELLING STREAM

wtf. i can't watch this normie shit any longer

>>6368203
Why the fuck do you care

>>6368203
>Oh no! Girls in my scale model video! My eyes burn!!
Bet you got triggered their kits look better than yours.

>>6368203
I don't understand what the problem is?