Gunpla/Plamo General

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Stiletto/Stylet complete. First off, not sure on which name is proper, and second, I would recommend never to pose a FAG much after painting. After adequate curing time, priming, careful moving, there was a lot of scratching going on during the photoshoot since the kit is so tight even after sanding connecting pieces. Still, it was fun to paint a girl figure, and definitely learned I should take it easy on where and how much shading I do on skin.

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>>6331936

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>>6331939
And I just had to take a couple of lewd shots.

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>>6331942
Last one

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Wanna get this old evangelion kit but worried about the rubber in his arms. Will it harden and crack over time?

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>>6331965
This rubber

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So what's this message in Mr. Super Clear about? I get the instructions, but what's it for? Like do I do this if it gets clogged or something?

>>6331969
What does rubber USUALLY do after time?

>>6331969
Yeah it'll eventually crack over time, depending on humidity along with wear and tear but most of the time it won't happen for a while.

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>>6331936
>not sure on which name is proper
Sty-ko

Uber-newfag myself.
I've scoped out a huge selection at Pacific Mall (canadafag), but have no idea what and which models.

Should I skip the store, and order online?
Should I not?

>>6332347
Compare to HLJ and AmiAmi (factor in shipping).

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>>6332353
Thanks mate.
Also, I used to be a WW2-modelfag, and I really want to transfer.
Are the mechanics of assembly the same?
Model + Model cement + Paint?

>>6332355
Not quite, did you read the guide?

>>6332356
fuck, I'm blind mate.
Sorry for that.

>>6332355
You're probably better equipped than most people around here to be honest, Bandai has made people allergic to cement and paint

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>>6331952
I hope my stylet will be as cool as yours one day. Still wondering if I should strip and redo my THICC paint which was done by hand.

Any bets on when the MegaSize Unicorn will go up?

>>6332542
Thanks, dude, but nah, you have way more room to surpass mine and then some. I had to handbrush certain spots too, and while your paint is thick, your technique is clean/hands are steady/know how to use masking tape well so definitely strip it and redo it with better knowledge.

>>6332347
The prices at pacific mall are shit compared to online (or at least they were ~2 years ago when I last went)

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How do you prevent or minimize raised decal edges? Pic related. It's my MG unicorn. I had to under expose a bit to make it visible

>>6332630
decal softer to melt the decal

flat topcoat to hide the edges

How do (You) prefer to panel line? Panel lining the removed piece before putting it in or panel lining the whole kit once it's assembled? Just panel lined my first kit after building it and while it came out okay some spots are kinda ehhhhh

>>6332674
Definitely piece by piece. If you panel line after building it can be very tough to get into recessed spaces or you might accidentally mark other pieces.

>>6332674
After I do straight build, or depending on how parts fit together, ie it's a hassle to disassemble, I'll stop during build process and panel line or paint, I tend to stop at the head to paint the racoon eyes and such so I don't have to do it later

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I just bought one of these. Can anyone tell me why the logo under the arm is a picture of Australia? I'm Australian and i bought this on impulse yesterday, but i only just noticed the logo.

It's not super clear in this image, but it's a white and black round logo with Australia in black and a white 4 pointed start over it. I can get a better picture if necessary.

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>>6332646
>decal softer to melt the decal
no
>flat topcoat to hide the edges
maybe, but not because it's flat topcoat

Right now your model is figure A, the decal makes a raised surface cause it has thickness.

Flatcoating will look like figure B. It will look like its smoothed out on the surface, and the flat surface sheen will mostly hide the raisedness, but it will appear like little bumps over the surface

The reason you are supposed to gloss before and after you apply decals is to hide it within a self leveling layer of paint, which means retarder for acrylic or use enamel paints. Lacquer thinners will dissolve decals, so best to avoid spraying layers upon layers of clear lacquer based topcoats over thick decals.

>>6332728
In 0083, Federation-captured Zaku IIs are piloted by the main character and his friend while they're at a testing base in Australia. The friend even manages to use his to destroy a Dom Tropen, which is the first on-screen kill by a Federation character in 0083.

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>HGUC Barzam is out

>>6332736
Wow that's pretty cool. I guess the Australian desert would make a decent testing base. I'm kind of proud now.

>>6332773
A space colony was dropped on Australia prior to that so it's practically entirely a desert with a giant hole in the middle.

>>6332780
Ah, so not much changed. My home town is near the centre of that crater though. So i guess RIP me. Time to watch this series.

>>6332733
Unicorn anon here, thanks. Too bad I put a layer of Mr color pearl before I applied clear coat. I also put decals directly into the white paint, not knowing this will make it worse

>>6332347
>>6332601
Stay the fuck away from the p mall store. Their prices are fucking insane. They're like 2-3 times msrp. Sometimes even before tax.

Shop online through banzai hobby, hlj, amiami or Amazon. You have to wait for your kit unless you do pricey shipping. Then you can get it in a few days.

If you want to shop local try Heroes World at highway 7 and warden. They have an OK selection but not the greatest as they try to keep a thin stock.
Prices are OK like 25% markup on the msrp. Their hg kits are decent.

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So, Bandai UK announced they're bringing some gunpla to MCM to sell officially for the first time.
Everyone gets excited, then this list gets released today.
Its like bandai dont WANT to sell over here and this is a "fuck off" list

>>6332542
It's not everyday you see thick paint look clean and relatively smooth.

>>6332890
That ex standard line really did just crash and burn didn't it? There hasn't been any new announcements for a while and stores can't seem to get rid of them.

>>6332910
No surprises there. Either the line got overproduced, or more and more people are wisening up to the fact that the SD concept belongs to the fucking garbage bin of history.

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Finished my first airbrushed kit, considering the circumstances I think it turned out decent.

I'm not sure if I should do something different about the painting or just not take photos in the harshest of sunlight, though.

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>>6332945

>>6332931
SDs are cool as a concept, it's just most of them are shit.

I'd buy all my favourite suits in SD if they had kits as good as SD Nu.

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>>6332733
is that your personal fantasy or do you actually have proof of it being possible somehow?

why wouldn't the 2nd clear coat go on top of the decal like the flat coat does in FigiureB? (hint: it would)


on the other hand decal softer is designed to melt the clear film on which the decal is printed and that does make the decal thinner so that the flat coat hides the edges well enough

>>6332931
More like the ex standard are just trash compared to the other modern sd kits. The bb legend line is still going strong and even the bb senshi line which for IBO just repackaged the ES kits made sure to toss in extra stuff to make up for the subpar base kit.

The ex standard line was the flop, not all of SD.

>>6332931
>Hey, let's make a really cheap line that covers a wide range of series! The engineering and molds will have to be pretty basic, but we can just market it as a good way to practice modeling techniques.
>Hey, let's cut down the number of series.
>Hey, let's cut down the number of releases.
>Hey, let's not actually make these super cheap anymore.
>Should we at least increase the quality? NXEdge is selling okay, there's definitely a market for nice looking SD kits.
>Nah, let's just throw in some dumb gimmicks.

SD kits can look amazing, but Bandai just doesn't seem to care. You basically have to go resin to see anything nice, and that introduces its own problems of inconsistent sizes.

>>6332970
>Nah, let's just throw in some dumb gimmicks.

Part of the problem with ex standard was they lacked even the most basic gimmicks that their pre-existing sd kits included. Unicorn didn't transform, wing zero couldn't split its rifles, etc. Add on that the line as a whole seemed allergic to clear parts and there was no reason to pick up an ex standard over the bb senshi.

>>6332890
oh my god
I'm embarrassed for getting hyped.
When I saw the picture on the Facebook last week and the caption said "includes" I thought they literally meant "includes", not "composed entirely of".
What a kick in the teeth.

>>6332945
>>6332948
Looks pretty good to me, anon.
Are you thinking about adding some more detail to the gun too?

>>6332981

Not really, I could probably have used a light coloured panel wash to make it look better though.

>>6332990
You could always hand detail it ;)

>>6332996

Yeah I guess hand painting a rivet or two would be an improvement.

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>>6332873
>I put a layer of Mr color pearl before I applied clear coat
Well judging by the thickness of the pearl coat, it seems like you did a decent job at keeping it thin. Bandai decals are quite thick so doing the above method takes a lot more extra work.

>>6332959
>is that your personal fantasy or do you actually have proof of it being possible somehow?
Yeah, sure. Go ask modellers. They've known this for years.
>why wouldn't the 2nd clear coat go on top of the decal like the flat coat does in FigiureB?
Gloss coat in a wet layer acts like a liquid, not a solid. If you put something in a basin and added liquid gesso medium it would self level over the object and not cause a bump where the object stood because its a fluid. Same if you were to put a thin piece of plastic under a coat of gloss varnish. Of course, if you applied in thin, 'dry' coats, you might have a problem, but having enough layered dry coats to cause a decal to stand out as if it were applied onto a smooth surface is just asking for frosting.
>(hint: it would)
If you dont know what you're talking about, dont offer advice.
>decal softer is designed to melt the clear film on which the decal is printed and that does make the decal thinner so that the flat coat hides the edges well enough
You only came up with that because you're a dumb shit who cant wrap his head around the fact that "melting" means to soften. Melting a decal to the point of thinning it would cause visible distortion because (surprise) the coloured part of a decal is printed on TOP of the original film, which is then pre-cut on the sheet. Causing the underlying layer to become thinner without affecting the print of the decal using a solvent (hint: that is the word you're looking for) is impossible. Softener is designed to allow a decal to deform enough so that it can be wrapped around complex edges WITHOUT affecting the original print. It cannot make decals thinner.

Proof: A decades worth of modelling experience.

>>6333059
Unicorn anon here again

So decal softener should only be used on complex edges? I usually put softener regardless of the surface curvature. Also, are decal setters always necessary?

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>>6333079
>So decal softener should only be used on complex edges?
Only is a strong word, I dont usually see it help heaps with adhesion, but putting it on wont hurt so long as you dont disturb it whilst the solvent evaporates.
>I usually put softener regardless of the surface curvature
It's good to be thorough, but it doesnt help all the time.
>Also, are decal setters always necessary?
I usually let the varnish I put over the top seal in the decal, so it is only as strong as the varnish itself, which is quite strong

>>6333079
Decal softener is extremely useful for edges, but that's because it makes the decal hug the surface of the plastic better. This makes it useful for all sorts of applications (rounded edges, panel lines, etc) so there's never really a reason you shouldn't use it.

As for setter, of course it isn't "necessary". The only thing that's necessary for waterslides is water, that's why they're called that. You use setter if you want to speed up your timetable.

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>>6332931
>the SD concept belongs to the fucking garbage bin of history

>>6332820
0083 was definitely a great show, the romance plot was a bit hamfisted and overly cliche but the action was great and it gave us friggin Dendrobium and Gerbera. Actually all the GP series was awesome really.

>>6332931
Its not that,
The ex standard was advertised as the next generation or step for sd gundams.
But the engineering on the ex standards were almost nonexistant , no part were almost all white loads of stickers and just low amount of playability.
Bb senshi is still a solid sd gundam line ,they just need to make more.

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>>6333059
>tries to argue a point
>posts picture refuting it
here's your visible edge bucko

>If you put something in a basin
there are no basins there son, at the thicknesses of fluid we are talking about surface tension FAR exceeds the effects of gravity and the fluid covers everything equally and when the thinner evaporates, surprise surprise, there is a coat of gloss on top of your decals and all of your other small surface details too.

or are you going to argue now that wet coat of gloss somehow "recedes" off rivets and such because >muh basin?

free advice: stop digging a hole for yourself, you are losing this argument

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>>6333305
>here's your visible edge bucko
Do your eyes work cunt? None of the numbers have an edge, you just cant discern the difference in sheen between a white border and a dark background. Notice how you only picked out the 1? Cause its the only one in the reflective area of the surface and it looks like an edge because the white doesn't get any whiter.

> thicknesses of fluid
Not my problem your gloss coats are thick as shit

>surface tension FAR exceeds the effects of gravity and the fluid covers everything equally
Ever heard of self levelling properties of certain paints? Wonder why that is. For super shine and smooth surfaces, a popular method has you applying several layers of gloss varnish and then removing the top layers with polishing compound because gloss coat is affected by gravity.

>there is a coat of gloss on top of your decals and all of your other small surface details too.
Yep, which covers the decal which proceeds to self level over it or did you not understand what I said above?

>or are you going to argue now that wet coat of gloss somehow "recedes" off rivets and such because >muh basin?
rivets are orders of magnitudes thicker than decals, are you fucking retarded? Just to indulge your mental handicap, sometimes, if the rivet is pointing straight upwards, gloss coat does recede off rivets and other surface details which jut abruptly from the surface, but it doesnt matter because no one puts decals on the high points of rivets.

>stop digging a hole for yourself
>compares rivets to decals
>strawman
nice try but you dont even have an argument, you just dont understand how fucking paint works.
What was your argument? Melt decals with softening solution. Nice one.

Here is another photo without the sheen so your tiny brain and malfunctioning eyes can see the 1 clearly without the apparently "difficult" to comprehend light shaft.

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What do you guys think about bringing in Gunpla to work?

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>>6333357
>Working with Jamil

10/10 would work there

>>6332945
Looks very nice. I like the color scheme and the paint looks good. Looking forward to seeing more.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-1-100-GNY-001-Gundam-Astraea-with-original-box-Building-blocks-action-figure-robot-anime/32653284055.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000014.3.HVHFrn&traffic_analysisId=recommend_3035_null_null_null&scm=1007.13338.79672.000000000000000&pvid=280309df-5682-463a-a880-f4cee9713aef&tpp=1

is this even a model kit or an action figure?

>>6333391
>from that page
The description of the product

1.We adhere to the good faith management to win credibility,We will carefully check the quality of the products
2.Our model is semi-finished product which needs to be assembled, not finished products
3.The product is really cool and meaningful and useful
The GNY-001 Gundam Astraea (aka Gundam Astraea, Astraea, Gundam Astraea Type B) is a 2nd generation prototype Gundam in the side story of Mobile Suit Gundam 00P. It is piloted by Ruido Resonance and Chall Acustica. The Astraea was later upgraded by Fereshte into the GNY-001F Gundam Astraea Type F and later the GNY-001F2 Gundam Astraea Type F2.

where can i get the cheapest real/fake 1/100 gundam kit to work on? i want to get into this hobby but want to start on a "who gives a shit, cheap kit"

>>6333409
I believe full armor rx 79 from thunderbolt is $50 to $60

>>6333409
This nigga is retarded, first off
>>6333425
A good kit would be a Zaku 2.0, any of the old master grades, or an Origin Gundam.

>>6332570
No? I'm the only one that cares? Okay

>>6333357
Depends on the environment. Some places you're A-OK, other places you need to worry about SJWs stressing over 1/144 scale plastic weapons or your stuff getting stolen. You also need to not sperg over the obvious questions that are going to get asked most places but if you're bringing Gunpla to work that's probably not something you're concerned with.

PG Tallgeese when
HGAC Tallgeese when

>>6333541
>PG
Never ever will they ever
>HG
SOON

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>>6333357
I bought my boss a GM when I went to Japan. He's all into that model shit. His name's also Jim so I thought it would be funny.
I took in my HG RX78 to show him and he was fascinated by how well articulated it was.
Then I showed him my RG Exia and it blew his mind, especially when I showed him the a picture of the articulated runner.
He's almost as autistic as I am.

Currently I've got a petit beargguy standing on my desk with an SD Zephyranthes, but I'm planning to have a few more permanent additions once a few more of my bases arrive.

>>6333357
We were actually talking about gunpla at work the other day. Some people already had an idea of how it worked and even the ones that didn't got excited about the quality and price of the kits.
I'm going to take my RG amatsu mina for them to take a look once it arrives, but I'm displaying it at home. I should definitely think about leaving an HG or SD there though.

>>6333357

depends on how autistic your workplace is

>>6333357
Not any weirder than the guy with the 1/18 scale TIE Fighter sitting in his cube. I do mostly MGs and I haven't brought them in yet but I had my HG Ground GM sitting in my cube. I took it home after a bit though to practice weathering on.

>>6333675
Sounds like you have a great boss

RG Exia or Raiser?

>>6333872
raiser, has way more stuff and better shoulders

>>6333905

I cut and denubbed that entire fucking kit yesterday before I realized I didn't actually order the decals for it

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>>6333342
>popular method has you applying several layers of gloss varnish and then removing the top layers with polishing compound because gloss coat is affected by gravity
>removing the top layers
>anything to do with self-levelling or gravity
trying to get out of the unwinnable argument by switching the method? tsk tsk tsk

that's not the method you were trying to promote in >>6332733 and anyone who ever painted knows that paint does not behave like that so your only hope here is to trick beginners

>what is surface tension and why do thin films of fluids cling to surfaces
when you go to high school in a few years, ask your physics teacher to explain it to you, kiddo

apparently I left some modeling clay next to my gundam beam sabers and it melted them kek wtf

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>>6332945
>>6332948
No those are nice. I like where you placed the colors on it and you did a great job getting the center of the mono-eye, what was your trick there, or was that carefully handbrushed?
I can't wait for the HLJ contest judging to finish so I can show off mine!
And natural light is always best light, but if you're worried about it being too harsh then set up a shade or wait for a lightly cloudy day.

>>6334002
Why don't you just show us your results anon instead of arguing with that guy

Also, flat topcoat is only applicable if you want the model to look flat. What if I wanted it to be glossy?

Like what I said in >>6333079, your advice seems to not work at all.

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>>6334002
>flat coating over a polished surface
gosh you really are retarded. Perhaps you didnt see, which I understand cause your eyes dont work, but I said that this method was for SUPER SHINE. How about you take a second to read responses a single time before you go telling everyone how little you actually know

>trying to get out of the unwinnable argument by switching the method? tsk tsk tsk
sick strawman again. Could you repeat for me what your advice was? I can read it above but I seriously cant believe it cause it's too retarded.

>that's not the method you were trying to promote in
yes cause it's a different method dumb shit

>anyone who ever painted knows that paint does not behave like that so your only hope here is to trick beginners
that's funny, I can only assume from the actual lack of evidence supporting your claim (since that was your beef in the first place, if you dont recall) that you're a master painter who needs to show me what's up. No one believes you and your argument consists of switching between telling me paint doesnt self level, self levelling doesnt matter when surface tension is involved and strawmanning my point when I talk of different methods to prove that gravity affects varnishes.

>what is surface tension and why do thin films of fluids cling to surfaces
Notice how I stated that sometimes thin coats of paint dont adhere to highpoints of models, and instead of disproving me, you just replaced my argument with your inept interpretation of it? Fuck off back with some proof troll.

Okay

Let me put the debate down.

>>6334002
The blog at HiQparts explains things better for you.

https://www.hiqparts.net/2016/08/23/%E3%83%87%E3%82%AB%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AB%E3%81%AE%E6%AE%B5%E5%B7%AE%E6%B6%88%E3%81%97-%E7%9E%B3%E3%83%87%E3%82%AB%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AB%E7%B7%A8/

Better?

Feed it through a machine translation if you have a problem.

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Is this the right thread to inquire about Frame Arms?

Just, in general, how's the quality on FAs generally? Would it be something okay for a total novice? I kinda want to try a kit, and I dig the design of the Zephyr. HLJ says it needs cement to complete, which is a little over my head, so...

I plan to get a couple to HG gunpla first to get my feet wet on models, but I'm curious whether Frame Arms are even worth considering.

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>>6334184
From my experience, Frame Arms are okay. First thing of note is that they're much bigger than your typical HG: think HGUC Nu or Unicorn Destroy Mode.

I got pictured, which is about midway through the line. It's technically a tuned up re-release (Kotobukiya loves doing these) of like the fourth Frame Arms kit so I can't say for sure if it's indicative of the most releases, but considering they're all supposed to use the same frame I'd have to imagine so. The base frame is very articulated, but also sort of a hassle: it's pre-assembled, which is to say that some minimum wage worker had to put together as many as they could as fast as possible. So there are nubs everywhere, and they interfere with the frame's stability and range of articulation. So the very first thing you're going to have to do is take the frame apart and clean it up.

As for the actual kit, it was... okay? Worst I can say is that the plastic quality didn't feel as nice as Bandai's. Koto kits typically have a hard-on for parts separation (to overkill extents, jesus christ the HMM line), but Frame Arms is like, high end HG tier. Assembly should be simple, and I don't think you need to paint anything.

As for the Zephyr, a) nothing in the manual indicates you need plastic cement and b) even if you did (for seams I guess???), cementing isn't fucking rocket science. It was god damn mandatory for the longest time, Bandai is the one who pushed the "you should just be able to snap fit it together!" thing. Don't talk about "over your head" until you at least get into the grounds of reshaping pieces.

>>6334184
There's no need to be intimidated by cement/glue. Even 5 year olds have learned how to glue things together.

>>6334242
>>6334260
Thanks for the reply. I'll keep this stuff in mind.

And yeah, you're probably right about the cement. Like I said, I'm completely new to this. I see "cement required" and I just see one more thing for me to potentially fuck up. If it's simpler than I'm imagining/not required in the first place then all the better.

>>6334260
I can totally see why people get intimidated by it though. One issue some have is the fear of glue accidently getting into a joint and ruining it forever. This sort of fear should go away after they assembled a few kits and begun to understand how the models are actually put together thus giving confidence that they know where to put the glue/cement without screwing up joints.

Another fear i seen even in people who been snapfitting for a long time is towards cement's property of melting down plastic to weld peices together. That can be really scary, one screw up and they completely ruin their kit because simply wiping it off will not help in their minds. To that I always say 'just cut up some runners and play around with cementing them together, figure out for yourself how to apply the cement in sparing amounts and how to be clean about it. As long as you know what you are doing the risk of damage to your kits is no more greater then you accidently slipping and gouging a chunk out when denubbing with an exacto.'

Then there is me who has actually ruined kits on a couple occassions with cement and blades due to muscle twitch I get in my hands now and then.

>>6334264
>If it's simpler than I'm imagining/not required in the first place then all the better.
The pieces are already there, that fact is inherent. Besides, you're practicing on HGs first, any fuckup you make is only going to cost around $15. Get your idiot mistakes out of the way on those and you're golden, most other modelling mistakes can be repaired with dedication and the proper tools.

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>>6333675
yeah, here's the current lineup.

>>6334299
>Having pantsless robots about
That's indecent!

>>6334301
I might give him some armour on one leg because he does look very naked.
I just like showing off the internal skeleton of it, honestly.

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>>6334184
With zephyr you wont really need and glue since most of the parts fit pretty well. A few have a pretty tigbt fit that might break if you try and diassemble for painting though so keep that in mind. This happened to me when i was taking the chest armor off to paint.

>>6334315
I forgot to mention, since zephyr is an older frame arms kit, sanding files leave nastier scratches on the plastic that can even be seen through paint. Get some fine sanding sticks to smoothen it out if your going to paint it up.

>>6334299
What's your job, anon?

>>6334332
Graphic Design.

The thing on the wall is the design for a pile bunker we were making for a fighting robot, so it's completely unrelated.

>>6334299
Your inner frame is showing. How embarrassing!

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This was inevitable.

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>>6334506
Some assembly required.

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>>6334507
The cuts are straight, square and effortless (even 2mm plaplate).

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>>6334515
Blade is the small Olfa boxcutter blade ("black" are recommended due to being extra sharp). North American version is called AB (ABB?)

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>>6334523
Size comparison.

I wish they used longer blades though.

>>6334524
funny, weren't we discussing this a few threads ago?
I bought the cheapass wave cutter instead

>>6334320
So newer Frame Arms have better plastic quality? The Zephyr just got an updated rerelease, which is what I was thinking of. I assume it'd have less of these issues.

Thanks for your replies, as well.

>>6334557
I dont think plastic quality has ever been an issue, not even chink kits. Just dont be a retard and prime your parts

the only new thing the rereleases come with is the architect renewal frame

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I pre-ordered this. What tank plamo should I buy with it?
I was thinking of the Platz version of the IS-2 or the 1/72 T-34/85 from Dragon Models.

>>6332630
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chCLz7xnnZQ

>>6334566
Can't go wrong with a Kv-2.

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The barzam seems fun if you have any mkII kits to go with it.

>>6334556
Yeah, I ordered it that same day I think.

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>>6334582
But the characters don't use that model.

>>6334133
>blog at HiQparts
Cool blog.
Got any more like that?

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>>6334566
It's 1/20 so if you want the tank to be in scale you are kinda screwed since 1/35 would be too small and 1/16 would be too big.

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>>6334600
>tank to be in scale
Not necessarily. I just wanted one of their tank to go with the figure.

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>>6334593
What part of "Can't go wrong with a KV-2" do you not understand?

>>6334621
Have they ever used it? Cause I don't remember.
Also it is one of the ugliest commie tanks.

>>6334623
>Also it is one of the ugliest commie tanks.

I'm going to find where you live anon.

>>6334557
It might have just been mine that scratched easily, but koto in general has plastic that is a little more brittle than bandais. The only real noticeable difference between new and old frame arms is the improvements to the frames themselves (newer joints etc.). They all tend to have bad nubs on the frame though since its preassembled. If you can, get one of the separate architect renewal frames so you can assemble the frame yourself.

>>6334184
I have a FA for each of my FAGs and they're pretty okay. Seems like Koto's plastic is a little harder and less forgiving than Bandai's, although I'm not sure if that's true, that's just how it feels to me. You don't really NEED cement, but every now and then it'll help with little pieces that don't like to stay on. But then, I have that same problem with most kits.
Basically if there's one that piques your interest, go for it. They're not bad by any means, just not exactly the same as Bandai's kits.

>>6334679
Dumb question but do you really need ABS cement for the ABS parts on FAG kits? Finding this ABS cement is hard without getting those big cans from hardware stores.

>>6334556
I've been eyeing the Wave cutter since the previous year, just balancing the budget for it compared to snagging extra greeblestuffs/kitbashables.

>>6334626
>>6334679
doubt its just you guys, that seems to be a very common sentiment and is one I feel as well.

If all you need is for parts to stay on, forget plastic cement, just use superglue.

>>6334689
I just use the same old Tamiya Extra Thin.

>>6334689
The usual Tamiya and Testors work just fine for every piece I've needed to glue or weld.

>>6334524
Neat. Is it just a matter of the alignment being precise to be able to cut so nicely?

And how do you clean the handle of your nippers? Mine has gone a...little dirty after 2 years of use.

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I always thought the Barzam was a shit ugly design and wanted nothing to do with it.

SO WHY IS MY DICK SO HARD RIGHT NOW

>>6335166
>Is it just a matter of the alignment being precise to be able to cut so nicely?
Pretty much.

>how do you clean the handle of your nippers
I do all my modelling in gloves these days so the handles don't get dirty in the first place.

>>6335191
You stopped having pleb shit taste

Has anyone built the 1/20 Plamax Macross girl kits before? Someone was interested in me painting one for them, but I can't find if the decals it comes with are stickers or waterslides. And anyone have any other opinions on them?

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How did I do? I admit that I got lazy at cleaning nubs. Any advice would be great

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>>6335452
The decals are waterslides but I suspect they will not be your biggest problem with the kit.

I posted my build here with a mini review some threads ago, search the archives.

https://imgur.com/a/0lX46

>>6335540
Oh shit, I was hoping you'd answer. I remember seeing you post that ages ago. I found the thread and saw your review, but I'd like some extra advice if you can spare it. For the mouth especially, did you do some elaborate masking while hand painting? And for the liquid masking you did on her corset and probably other areas, how did you apply it? Like thinning it first or something? I always have trouble with brushing it on as the latexy material just goes everywhere so I try to avoid liquid masking as much as possible. And do you think shading would be possible for anything but the skin? The amount of area to work with looks already incredibly small enough that airbrushing would only help the biggest of areas.

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>>6335549
>did you do some elaborate masking while hand painting?
No, it's all free hand. Mouth is like 4 different paint apps (enamel over lacquer so it's easy to wipe off and start again, and boy did I have to start again).
BTW gold accents are handpainted Alclad and that had to be done right the first time.

>liquid masking you did on her corset and probably other areas, how did you apply it
With a sharp toothpick, very carefully, and it still wasn't perfect so I had to fix the mistakes with a hand brush afterwards.

>do you think shading would be possible for anything but the skin?
I shaded her dark red bow and the hair. I didn't shade the skin at all.

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>>6335538
Woops sorry about that, posted from my phone

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>>6335538
Underexposed to show that pearl glow

>>6335565
Ah, that's smart. I didn't think about abusing different paint layering of enamels, lacquer, and probably acrylic in my case. Didn't think of using a toothpick either for liquid masking, even if it might not come out perfectly. Thanks a lot for the advice, man.

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>>6335571
There quite a bit of spota where I guess you either forgot to paint or had it chipped off. Also you missed a nub on his crotch it seems.

Heres a unicorn that I chromed a while back

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open your barzams!

>>6335630
Yeah I got impatient anon and skimped on cleaning the nubs. I learned the hard way how the nubs really pop out once painted

You're right anon, those are chips. Mr. Pearl Color is really an unforgiving paint.

I learned a lot this build. I really need to be more patient when it comes to painting. Also, that's a nice looking unicorn anon. can you share more pics? Also interested on the paints that you used

>>6335732
All good anon, did you add a gloss topcoat or anything at the end or would it ruin the pearl finish?
And I just used tamiya gloss black > alclad chrome 2 >mr color clear black to darken it and I went over the psychoframe with a clear pink to kinda bring it out a bit more.

>>6335191
>>6335671

Is this the best HG kit in terms of color separation ?

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MG Gouf Custom or Efreet?
The Gouf Custom looks like an older kit, so I wasn't sure about the quality.
The Efreet just looks cool to me.
If the Gouf is fine, I'll probably get it.

>>6335540
will you get the Sheryl kit?

>>6335917
Gouf gets my vote just because its hard to top the OG Gouf Custom, but the Efreet is a damn good kit, all of the re100 kits are great. They do lack the finer details most MGs have, they are kind of in between HGs and MGs in complexity.

>>6335917
MG Gouf Custom is super old, and the engineering shows. The poor thing can't balance for its life thanks to that massive shield.

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>>6335917
Look at this fucking shield and tell me if you think the kit's going to be able to pose.

Also it's a slight edit to the original Gouf 1.0, which just isn't that hot. If you really want a nice Gouf Custom there's a great resin kit for the 2.0.

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>>6335965
>>6335964
Would any amount of tightening the joint help with the shield? That's the biggest complaint I've heard about it.

>>6335961
I'm starting to lean towards the Efreet. I know next to nothing about it from a more standpoint, but it just looks cool. A lot of the Melee focused builds do, imo.

Does anyone has experiences with tamiya sprays, especially the red ones? I am trying to go for a two tone red with noticeable difference in the brightness of the red. What would be the best 2 red tamiya spray paints? How does bright red (TS-49) and pure metallic red (TS-95) go together? According to their cap colors, they have a noticeable difference in tone which is what I am going for, but is it really still the case when I spray them out?

>>6336005
I would go with TS85 and TS49.

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>>6335988
Tightening joints works to an extent, but when you've got a huge imbalance like this you're better off just getting some sort of clear plastic support. It'll just sag over time otherwise.

It's not very hard either, these things tend to have standardized peg sizes. Just grab a Tamashii base of your liking and drill the right size hole.

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>>6336005
>>6336026
Going by the spray cap, the color is quite unreliable desu.
Got this spoon test image from Layman's Gunpla Guide.

I'm planning on buying a spray booth soon, but I have nowhere to set it up except my room.
How bad of an idea is it to spray toxic paints in the same room I eat, sleep, and pretty much spend 98% of my time in?

would painting and then leaving the room to air out with both windows open for like two or three hours be good enough for making the room less hazardous to be in?

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>>6336122
If you have windows at all you're better off than you think. The whole point of spray booths is to let you funnel the residue out of the way.

There's still risks, but if you're aware of them I can't see it being a problem. Wear a mask, air the room out, etc.

>>6336122
Hundreds of asian modelers do the exact same thing and they're all still alive. Shit, they probably live in even smaller rooms than you.

It's not ideal, but 90% of this hobby is settling with what you've got.

>>6336048
Cool. I've never messed with those before. If I get the Gouf, I may try it out. Thanks.

>>6336150
>>6336153

Alright, looks like I'll be setting up a spray booth in my room. Thanks, anons.

So guys, I've been debating on the new group build, and come to the conclusion that a poll is the best option. The build will be Frame Arms, some way or another.

http://www.strawpoll.me/13008659/r

>>6336174
Do the burning paper test before actually spraying paint using the spray booth.
Turn on spray booth, light paper on fire in front of it, and pay attention to where the smoke/smell is going. Is all the smoke going into the vent?
Does your room smell like burning paper after you're done venting it out/turn off the spray booth?

>>6336399
Also forgot, this will be a prize build.

>>6336399
I know this is still in the voting phase, but are customs allowed? And how far can they go? Because I have an idea that might extensively alter a FA:G that I'll probably do for the build.

>>6336452
generally speaking, as long as its a Frame Arms or Frame Arms Girl as a base its fine

we don't do any of that percentage fuckarounds like the /m/ builds have

>>6336452
Yeah, the whole point is to make something you want, and Frame Arms, in general, are excellent for that. I'd be disappointed if people didn't do any extra work on them.

>>6332773
Feddie scum

>open box
>Decal sheet is bent, not creased but curled for sure.

How can I fix this? Heavy book? This is my first time trying to do a decal build.

Usually I use waterslides, but on the RGs there's those metallic stickers which look nice. But I'm not confident they'll stay on.

Will a top coat help? Should I attempt to super glue the stickers on?

>>6336456
>>6336459
Thanks. Yeah, mainly asking because of what I saw in m builds where they had those percentage minimums. Very nice. This'll definitely give me the kick in the butt to do the custom I wanted.

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>>6336488
I'd try that. Place them in the middle of a heavy textbook or something.

Working on a color scheme for a Graze custom using Kai, schwalbe, and Barbados parts. I'm going to recycle some leftover decals and try masking areas to put stripes/patterns on some areas. What do y'all think?

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Anyone think the Reincar looks better without the world of warcraft shoulders?

>>6336537
Slightly. Maybe add some of the lower profile shoulders from another kit.

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>>6336399
Is Megami Device allowed?

>>6336552
we're probably going to have to be pretty strict on FA and FA:G only, sorry

Since it doesn't look like SD has any FA:G decals, is there anyone else that makes third party ones? I'm especially interested in red eye decals.

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>>6336550
Took off the blue shell. This isn't too bad either.

>>6336459
what if i wanted to do a straight build

>>6336552
Nope, I'll give that line more time to get stuff out and then probably do a build for it.

>>6336570
Taobao is probably the best bet.

>>6336578
That's fine, but remember if you're entering for the prize then there's a good chance you'll not get far in the judging. There's no requirement to enter for prizes though.

>>6335876
yep, sticker sheet is tiny

Does anyone know if the old HGUC Zeta's backpack is compatible with the new HGUC Zeta?

>>6336557
>tfw can't find architect anywhere online

I want to build ;.;

>>6336583
Damn, doesn't look like Taobao has any. Found one set, but they were for one that had blue/indigo eyes. If anyone has any extra, I'd be willing to work out a trade for spare Stylet eyes or paying for a reasonable price.

>>6336431
Woah, I didn't know about this. Thanks for the potentially life saving advice, anon.

>>6336599
I got mine on ebay.

I'm about to paint my first HG.

How far should I disassemble it for priming?

>>6336636
I usually just disassemble the moving parts to make sure nothing that's going to be visible is covered up.

>>6335565
What liquid mask is that, and how easily were you able to draw it on the parts?

Whoever designed the Gusion Rebake Full City's subarm joints should be made to eat shit. Holy shit I can feel them bending as I flex the arms. What the fuck were they thinking? It's even worse than the hip joints

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>>6336709
I like the design so much but every time I think I should buy it, I see a post like this telling me it's absolute dogshit.

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>>6336689
>how easily
Let's just say it takes some practice.

>>6336732
Yeah, I'm going to be practicing with Micro-Sol's liquid mask sometime whenever.
And maybe later with Humbrol's liquid mask, though their is actually liquid latex (ow the fumes are more bothersome than lacquers)

>>6336724
The regular Gusion Rebake is a more handsome suit anyway. And the 1/100 is pretty solid even though it's a ripoff.

>>6336724
>stickers galore
>balancing issues
>awful joints
Honestly, I'm surprised they put this piece of shit out. Probably the worst IBO kit I've made so far. Vual comes second.

>>6335855
Yeah I did gloss it. It didn't do much tho. I think an acrylic topcoat will be much better as it would not react with the pearl layer

Which paint brands do you guys like for hand painting?

I'm trying to pick a paint to get.

>>6336966
Vallejo model color

http://www.ms-nation.com/main/index.php?route=product/category&path=71_67_96&sort=p.price&order=ASC


Am i retarded or are these dirt cheap?
Brit Bong here, the conversion rate is so good RM108 is like £20
Am i seeing this right?

Hi gunpals, I'm a casual fan of the kits. Unfamiliar with the media. I've built: MG musha mk.2, and MG 3.0 RX-78-2. Both were fun, my first ever kits.
I only buy kits that look visually appealing to me. The two I have don't really mesh style-wise as opponents. Do you guys have any suggestions for kits that would compliment either one?
I'll probably get the char zaku, and I'm not interested in the red samurai gundam--any other suggestions? I really love the Musha MK2, but other big gaudy kits don't really appeal to me, such as the various kits with giant wings and massive accessories.

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>>6337097
If you liked the 3.0's styling, consider dipping into RG. There's really nothing else in the MG line that matches the 3.0's color separation, so unless you're fine with painting it'll have to be on its own.

As for the Musha mkII, if the regular Musha Gundam doesn't float your boat then maybe the Sengoku Astray?

If all you want is subdued designs, then there's plenty of things you could check out. Victory Gundam, GMs, Tallgeese, AGE-1 Normal, and the Geara Doga spring to mind.

>>6337103
Thanks for the reply bud, I'm thinking one the sniper kits would be good too. The head designs are distinct and cool...is there one those that's universally praised?

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>>6337106
When in doubt, go with the most recent kit. Look up MG GM Sniper II.

>>6337093
>Am i retarded

Yes. Look at the boxarts, they're clearly bootlegs.

>>6337115
Im aware theyre bootlegs, the site is actually really honest about it...

Im just wondering if im actually calculating the exchange rate correctly and if anyone has any experience with the bootlegs

>>6337122
I'm going to pretend you didn't just ask if you got a fucking exchange rate right.

Gao Gao is a bad brand. Any brand that charges that cheap isn't actually worth it unless you can afford nothing else, this should be obvious.

>>6337126
Well you sure are aggressive...
Thanks for that half arse reply, enjoy cuddling your body pillow tonight.

>>6336570
yep, there sure are. I got the last baselard set, but I wish I got the blue impulse stylet decals instead

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>>6337137
forgot the image like the retard I am

>>6337135
Why thank you, I'll enjoy my body pillow that I was able to afford because I'm not a complete moron who can't make decisions without asking on a message board.

Next time you find yourself asking if a brand is worth it, just fucking google it. There are reviews all over the net.

Is Bandai going to release Dantalion in 3 sets, all with the same model?

>>6337157
yes my uncle works at bandai and he told me so

How do I go about painting ABS plastic frames?
I'm using Tamiya TS-cans which I understand i Lacquer and can be harmful to the ABS plastic, whether I prime, paint or just top coat. But I see a lot of people here with painted frames so what gives? Living on the edge?

Ive seen some really cool "stomach" Midsection modifications, metal parts, thinner waists.
Anyone have a tutorial for this or know where to buy the parts?

>>6336623
Crazy markups though, architect should not cost me more than 45 bucks shipped

>>6336570
Sorry for the retard question, what is SD?

>>6337345
SamuelDecal, chinese middleman kind of deal, plus he prints custom decals. He only has a facebook page now though so either message him through there or shoot an email.

>>6337137
Where'd you get them from?

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So I left the vote up, and both lines won. So:

Frame Arms Group Build

This time the idea is to build any Frame Arms, or Frame Arms Girl kit, and paint and customize it.

The rules are overall pretty simple, the base must be recognizable as FA or FA Girl, other than that there's no limit on what you can do.

Due Date: September 1st

Note: This is a prize build, there will be a prize provided by me (several MSG weapons, to be finalized this week), there will also be a mystery prize provided by another anon. That means that to enter, I need WIP pictures submitted before the due date. Simply email me some pictures of you working on it, I don't care at what point, as long as it's possible to tell where your final product came from.

Email: [email protected]

I'm also available via IRC and Steam.

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>>6336570
HiQ Parts makes 1/12 eye decals. This sheet, 4-B, is backordered at HLJ and Amiami, but Hobby Search still has it in stock.

>>6337680
Whoa, thanks, dude! I don't know why I didn't try to just look up generic eye decals rather than just FA:G ones, but those will work great. Gonna see which matches my needs now.

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This is weird. The Barzam's crotch cannon is supposed to look like the one in the left, but in the kit it looks like the one on the right

>>6337713
the original line art has always been super ambiguous about which one is the correct one. apparently it's not a crotch cannon but a fueling port

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Ha ha he long

>>6336878
What's wrong with Vual?

I just got HG Origin Zaku II Char sent to me as a birthday gift. What am I in for? Context: I've built the RG Zaku II and loved it.

>>6337820

if you have built any gunpla made in the last few years and have received any gunpla made in the last few years, you know exactly what you're in for already

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>>6332728
>Can anyone tell me why the logo under the arm is a picture of Australia? I'm Australian and i bought this on impulse yesterday, but i only just noticed the logo.
Spacenoids in Gundam 0079 hates Australia, specially Sydney.

>>6337352
A circle named R66-AEL, they make eye decals for a few other things such as shinkis and megami devices

their twitter is @r66_ael

>>6337834
Shit, I just ordered those HIQ parts ones, but I'd still like to keep note of this for any future projects. Found their twitter but it doesn't look like they know English. If you dm them, do they reply in English? Or do they only sell things exclusively off some site?

>>6337851
I got mine from them in person at an event. They have a webstore, but they only seem to have the megami device decals, and I don't believe they will offer intl shipping.

Find someone to help you ask in nip and post results.

test

>>6337680
>>6337834
>>6337851
>>6337865

Is there another way to print eye decals, whites and all... without using Testors brand stuff?

>>6337954
Not unless you have a printer that can actually print white

>>6337963
White decal paper is possible, but it's $1 per sheet and they sell it only in bulk.

I was thinking someone could set something up, but getting people to vote on the eye art style and color is another thing entirely. Especially if the artist's style doesn't jive with people.

>>6337828

Fake news, everybody knows that spacenoids hate huehuehue and the only reason why the colony hit Sydney was due Earth Federation interference.

Operation British was supposed to be a killing blow, instead provided the Federation a convenient reason to rape the planet even more.

Learn your history, you new millennial.

>>6337954
Sam decal takes custom orders for $30 IIRC. At least he used to, not sure what his deal is with that site that he's been working on for literally ever.

>>6338015
He abandoned his site last I checked. Everything is through his facebook now.

>hate barbatos with a passion
>it keeps getting uglier with each redesign
>realize that its growing on me by the end of ibo
Fucking hell I guess I'm gonna buy it. Is there any significant differences between the 1/100 and the 1/144 besides price?

>>6337805
his arm joints are loose, to the point where he can't hold his fuckhuge hammer, his headpiece doesn't fit properly and wobbles, and parts of his armour are prone to popping off.

>>6338142
1/100 is more detailed.

File: BarbatosComp.jpg (242KB, 599x694px) Image search: [Google]

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>>6338142
Wait, which Barbatos? If you mean the original one (3rd Form), I would almost definitely go with the 1/144. The detail level doesn't increase very much at all unless you wanna display the naked inner frame, and color separation isn't much better either (I can't believe the 1/100 didn't even spring for yellow parts for the shoulderpads). I mean, look at this photo. There aren't even any extra panel lines or anything as far as I can tell. Plus, the proportions are horrible on the 1/100--look at it on the left here. The waist is so high up and the legs are so long. It's hyper-Katoki-ized. The 1/100 also doesn't come with the arm shield, you need to buy the 1/100 Graze to get it. Doesn't come with the big mace either.

Last nail in the coffin? My 1/100 can't hold an action pose worth a damn. Its hip joints are really loose and its ankles are a bit weak, so it falls over all the time. Whereas my cute, svelte 1/144 looks fantastic and poses just fine.

>>6337713
Its a funny in joke withe orginal lineart. For years many have thought it ws really just a perspective drawing error, and that it was a normal crotch thruster. At the same time there were many who thought it was an odd shaped crotch accessory witha doodad in the corner. Its like those "is this a busty mermaid or 2 dolphins jumping" image that depends on the person viewing it.

Bandai recognized both in other product releases, but for the hguc they decided to go with funny doodad on the corner of the crotch.

>>6338162
>>6338189
Thanks for the info,. Forgot to mention that I was talking about lupis rex but I can imagine that the 1/100 has some better detail.

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>>6338213
I like the Lupus Rex ;;

>>6338216
...that's the Lupus.

>>6338213
The 1/100 rex can't handle the mace from the reviews I saw. (Mecha gaikotsu, people think he's alright right?)

But the color separation is much nicer.

>>6338216
I like the sword-mace. It was pretty fun to swing around.
Hate the side skirts. It's too long and unwieldy.

>>6338220
>Mecha gaikotsu, people think he's alright right?
Hamhands that doesn't know how to handle the kits with care, but aside from that he's alright I guess.

File: IMG_20170422_154307-3480x2610.jpg (1MB, 3480x2610px) Image search: [Google]

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>>6338218
Right - you're completely correct, I got confused with the multiple versions.

I have the 1/144 Lupus Rex and I'm getting the 1/100 this weekend.
144 is a nice little build but there are next to no yellow parts, and they're virtually all replaced with stickers.
The big mace thing is quite heavy but the joints hold it quite well.

>>6337828
I live in sydney... i guess I'll never pilot a mobile suit.

Anyone know of a place to get a PG 1/60 RX-78-2 at the lowest possible shipped price, I'm in Canada. Would consider buying one from you guys as long as it's complete and unbuilt. Thanks

>>6337824
I've only built 1 HG kit and the RG Zaku II and the RG Zaku II kind of makes the HG kit look rather outdated, so I was wondering how the Origin Char Zaku II would look next to the RG Zaku II

>>6338242

the HG origin zaku is a newer kit than the RG, but because it is an HG it is necessarily less detailed. it will look like a less-detailed zaku next to your RG.

if you want to know what kits look like next to each other, just open dalong in two tabs

File: ashtray.jpg (358KB, 1632x918px) Image search: [Google]

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i thought the ornate gold hilt and pommel of the astray's sword were gaudy and excessive so I trimmed them down to be a bit more modest. I think it looks a lot better.

>>6338250
I've always wondered - is Astray pronounced "astray" or like "ashtray" but without the h?

>>6338251
It's pronounced "fugly".

>>6338251
Its astray as in the word astray

>>6331969
>>6331965
there are oils you can use when it gets stiff to keep it from cracking

>>6338256
ayyy fuck you twice up the astray

>>6338251
It's pronounced "a-stray" as in being led astray

Picked up the RCX-76-01 Guncannon Prototype suit while I was at Little Tokyo yesterday. It was a fun build

>>6338341
I hope you had a good time there anon

>>6338189
They're not longer they're mounted lower on the hips

>>6336537
>>6336576
I'm really tempted to get that guy

New to gunpla here. Just bought my first kit (HGUC RX-93). I don't even really follow gundam but it looked cool so whatever.

Other than going through the guide, what are the most common fuck ups beginners usually make and how can I avoid them?

>>6338367
Don't eat the pieces, no matter how tasty they look.

>>6338367
>>6338370
This.

The runners are fine, though. But only in the newest gunpla like the IBO kits. They're pushing to go eco-friendly by making the runners edible, instead of having all that wasted plastic just sit in a landfill.

The red runners are my favorite, they're cherry flavored.

>>6338378
I wondered what smelt like banana when I opened up my Barbatos.

>>6338367
Wait, you picked up Nu for your first build?
Spicy.

Uh, when I started building I would cut close to the part so I had less to cut, and that left white spots because my nippers weren't the best.
Don't do that.

Also, if you have a piece that fits in th emiddle and is loose on the sides (for example, the headpiece), make sure to apply pressure in the middle and don't push on the sides.

Keep hold of the piece on the runner as you cut the last sprue, so it doesn't shoot off across the room and blind your dog.

Also, what >>6338370 and >>6338378 said.
Keep away from grey though, I don't know what they were going for but it tastes like old gum stuck to the underside of a table.

>>6336570
https://hlj.com/product/HBJ61473

>>6335732
>Mr. Pearl Color is really an unforgiving paint

Are you saying I'm better off mixing pearl powder into acrylic clear for more forgiving results

>>6338017
>Facebook

Oh hell no. Get him to set up a non FB alternative, thank you.

Mega Unicorn yet?

>>6338506
>Get him to set up
>Look I know you are fine using the existing facebook group, but I am not
>I can't be bothered to do anything for myself, so you need to do this for me

File: IMG_0007.jpg (140KB, 586x800px) Image search: [Google]

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working on my agg

>>6338994
can i offer you a nice agg in these trying times?

>>6338994
Cute!

File: Megazord.jpg (111KB, 538x1551px) Image search: [Google]

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Damn I'm late

>>6338506
>CHANGE EVERYTHING
>FOR ME

Fuck off retard

>>6339004
Where the fuck do I buy this

>>6339052
Got mine on ebay.

It's a Bandai Super Mini Pla Daizyujin

>>6338505
Not really. What I meant was you really have to take note of your thinning ratios, number of coats, and drying time. Lay a thicker coat than your previous and you might end up with hairline cracks.

It's really easy to overdo especially when you are coating white parts (it's harder to see).

I would really not recommend using a lacquer topcoat over it. You will end up disturbing the pearl coat and it will take more work and time to get the finish you want

>>6339062
How much should I expect to pay for it? Am I getting ripped off at $340?

>>6339062
>>6339064
Never mind, I was looking at the wrong model. Now I have to find one of these that's actually for sale.

>>6339068
~$90 ebay. But it looks like they're getting a re-print.

Up for pre-order on toywiz rn

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/amiami/item/goods-00126508/

>>6338998
kek

>>6339000
ty anon

the paint needs some touch ups and i removed the nub. i got it of a local auction site, it was already assembled but sadly not very good. i sanded the worst area's but it's not going to be perfect. it's not going to be a display model anyway, i'm going to use it for a stop motion giant robot battle movie. currently working on making the drillbits rotateble

also, there seem to be not al lot of them out there to use for reference so i'm taking some creative freedom with the paint colors, the manual shows it with orange/black/white and gray, but i'm using different shades of metal (the metal is not washed yet) for better looks

Cast someone post pics of the xenoblade x skell plamo? How is it? I was thinking of building one

>>6339072
An American release actually. They are on BBTS as well. I preordered the Dragonzord there. I got mine for ~$90 on eBay just before the preorders went up. Although I still haven't gotten mine and I may have been scammed. The dude "forgot" to mark it shipped until I messaged him. We'll see, he has a week left before I file it not showing up and pre-ordering on BBTS. Both Megazord and Dragonzord will be out in August from BBTS.

>>6338343
They are also longer. Not by a lot, but they are. If you can't see it, measure across the image with a straight line. The top of the leg, knee, and ankle guard are all higher on the 1/100.

File: 1485789003340.jpg (2MB, 3606x2172px) Image search: [Google]

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>>6337556
Adding lineart raw.

This needs to be optimized into B&W lineart, but I think it might be faster if it were traced than if it were filtered.

Good luck.

I can't recall, did we have an infographic for the magnetic FAG neck replacement mod? If there was one would someone post it? I'll need it one of these days.

File: Kits.jpg (2MB, 2850x2360px) Image search: [Google]

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If you live in Tokyo you can come down and pick some of it up. If you live in a different country you'll have to pay for shipping and handling.

A few parts might be missing, check the notes, but in Japan you can order replacement parts relatively cheap.

File: Kits parts.jpg (3MB, 2815x2147px) Image search: [Google]

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>>6339328

>>6339330
you might have better luck in the BST. there's somebody who specifically buys stuff that's been made already.

>>6339328
>>6339330
I sent you an email.

>>6338251
The Astrays were developed using data stolen from the Earth Alliance by Orb. It's a play on the idea that they are gundams that have been led astray.

File: 1478172568569.jpg (51KB, 480x446px) Image search: [Google]

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>no MG Nobel Gundam

File: IMG_4749.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

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First up, batwing is just about done. Decals are added, and to figure out how to hang it. It's not perfect but it'll do as it's going to be hanging.
Second, the frame, red, and yellow are painted, and last night finished up the first set of white parts for the 02. Coming out ok all things considered.

File: 20170523_232928.jpg (1MB, 2560x1440px) Image search: [Google]

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And now for something completely different.

>>6339646
I'd buy it.

>>6339612
>fucking ignored

>>6339655
>1 hr old post with no replies
>abloo bloo bloo muh (You)'s

god forbid you post on /po/ with their year long threads

>>6339655
Okay? Thread is slow during the day, and yeah a lot of the batwing stuff was ignored in the last thread, but it falls in that odd camp between here and the scale model thread, which, well I still don't feel qualified to post in without getting shot to ribbons. The 02 is relevant for sure though.

File: image.jpg (1MB, 2592x1936px) Image search: [Google]

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I ordered some Tamiya cement on ebay and the seller included a bag of what looks like dirt or gravel with it. Any idea what this could be for?

Also, should I worry that it came from China? Could the cement be a KO?

>>6338147
Haha! Seems like got a shitty one, two of mine have no issues so far.

>>6339689
try grinding it up and smoking it?

>>6339690

really? yours can hold the hammer just fine? because regardless of QC for the joints, the slot in his hand is just a different shape and not tight enough to hold the hammer in place.

>>6339701
I think we could throw in a few bitcoins to see that.

>>6338994
I've got an agguy in the mail. Can't wait.

One topcoating guide is telling me to hold the piece 6 inches away and turn it for 2-5 seconds, but the YouTube guide said 12 inches and a single light pass. What do I do?

>>6339906
YouTube is more right. If you're turning the piece while holding the can still, you're going to get an uneven coat.

>>6339909
>more right
depends on the piece, the spray method and paint consistency

>>6339906
Practice. Test it out on similar pieces, if you dont have any, you'll have to bite the bullet and just go with something conservative and learn from there.

I painted some clear pieces in transparent red, and I like the current look. I guess if I were to gloss or flat coat them it might ruin the look?

How does a satin varnish interact with clear pieces? It's acrylic paint so I would like to be able to protect it somehow.

>>6339309
where's this pic from?

>>6340023
fumikane doujin with ebikawa and yanase

no one ever scans that shit

Where can i get a first/third party MG 1/100 kit for roughy $20 need a starter kit that i wont feel guilty for fucking up

>>6333342
>>6334097
>90% of your arguments are insults
Heck, I have no idea who is right, but you sound like a cornered asshole.

>>6340231
If you want something cheap, why not just go with HG?

>>6340258
Want to work with 1/100 kits and kits with inner frames

File: 20170523_170804.jpg (2MB, 1599x2101px) Image search: [Google]

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>>6340261
Try the Barbatos 1/100. It's about $24.
The Graze commander is also $22.

Trying to get a cloak going for my GM Sniper II

>>6340261
The IBO 1/100 kits are exactly what you want

>>6340266
Do you happen to know if the 1/100 over flag has a inner frame? the kit is roughly £13 and i love the model

>>6340280
Try to find it on Dalong and see what they say about it

>>6340280
http://dalong.net/review/00/0106/0106_i.htm
It does not sadly, to check just go to the review on dalong.net and click on the information part at the top

File: 1474669565847.jpg (852KB, 3606x2172px) Image search: [Google]

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Here is a crude lineart version. Gourai/Stylet/Jinrai/Burger lineart where?

New thread: >>6340316

>>6339906
6 inch seems a little too close.

Practice on a runner to see how its going to be, It usually takes about 2 or 3 passes with a can to get a nice looking coat. Wait about 10 - 15 minutes in between coats. And don't spray if its too cold or too humid.

>>6339689
was it ladypata by any chance?

>>6340280
the only 1/100 i am aware of that are not MGs with an inner frame are IBO because that was the gimmick of the entire line, inner frames with interchangable parts.

>>6340476

Yes, it was.