Nerf N-Strike Elite XD Modulus Recon MKII
Nerf N-Strike Elite XD Modulus IonFire
Nerf N-Strike Elite Alpha Trooper CS-6 Mission Kit
Modulus has been a shitshow besides making Nerf accessories easily obtainable.
Don't forget guns being packed with accessories from other guns
Not him, but it literally says on the box ots a kohl's exclusive.
If you ever see a blaster packaged that way with parts from other blasters, its pretty safe to assume it kohls and outrageously overpriced.
Wish I could find some neon green opaque belts for my Vulcan.
Sometimes I wonder if I should just fucking sell the thing and get shekels. I never have a chance to use it and I can't pick up darts with my back.
>airsoft and paintball
Cheaper and being more house friendly are two big advantages for nerf though.
unrelated, how are the chinese nerf darts that are on ebay for like $4 for 100?
as someone that's done both before, and has a large collection of real guns, you're a huge fucking mangina if you think they're dangerous.
>oh no, I'm kind of sore after a full day of getting shot at and running around :(
there are like 8 year olds playing paintball.
Because you can dick around with them and be a general nuisance.
> little cousin/niece/nephew acts up?
Blast that little shit
> cat won't stay off that counter?
A few seconds burst with your over volted Vulcan will show that little fuck you're serious
> girlfriend walking around naked for whatever reason?
50 points for a cooch shot down the hallway with your sniper rifle of choice
And as someone who's also done both, you're completely talking out of your ass if you DON'T think they're dangerous.
I have played paintball games where I came home bleeding from how high some people tune up their markers. I have holes in my shirts from paintballs hitting me full force at close range. If you go to any Paintball arena and try to remove your face mask, just watch how fast the refs shut the match down and kick you off the field. Because a shot to the face from any decent marker will seriously ruin your day.
I will give you that airsoft isn't all that dangerous, as long as you wear goggles because again, getting shot in the eyes with those things *is* very dangerous.
But with Nerf, even if you do get shot in the eye, the worst that'll happen is you call the guy who shot you a dick and you shoot him right back.
There's also cost factor and fun-factors involved. Nerf guns are cheaper to collect and play with overall and just more fun to fiddle with then paintball markers or airsoft guns. The sheer variety and creativity behind some of the cool Nerf blasters dwarfs the simplistic, efficiency-first style paintball markers and the try-hard, real-world mimicking Airsoft stuff.
Again, I've done all three and I have owned many paintball guns. Nerf is still more fun.
So, who here mods or makes their own guns? This here is Charlotte, named after the PVC pipe company that made most of her outer shell. Completely legal in my local HVZ league and it's hella fun to use in shootouts between the forensics and debate club and the Uni newspaper.
I've only just started modding. So far I've completed OMW upgrades for my EAT and strongarm. I've also thrown one of their springs into a fire strike and added an ACE hardware spring to a nitefinder. Pretty basic stuff but I'm getting good ranges out of all of them.
Next on my list is a stryfe, demolisher and rapidstrike. Not sure how much power I need for the lipos, or what kind of motor for the pusher on the RS, but I'm really hoping I can get them all done before the next semester starts up.
I've been using quad 4.2v Trustfires on my stampedes for years without issue. They're bretty good for responsiveness. Still, I find that flywheel blasters and automatic plunger blasters just can't stack up to traditional in a straight firefight. They'll always have a small delay and are never as accurate as a good long barrel plunger. That's why I only keep my Stampede SMGs around as a secondary. Pic related. Radio shack has tons of cheap battery holders you can solder into the place of the obnoxiously large nerf ones.
Honestly, if you plan on rewiring/changing the battery supply for your blaster, lipo is the only way to go. Trust fires are extremely unsafe and 90% of the time they arnt the specs that they are labeled. Lipos are just more customizable when it comes to voltage, size, etc.
And if you do it right, there is no delay on a modded flywheel. Most people who still have delays either didn't use proper wiring methods, or didn't replace something to handle their new battery.
Yessir they do. They don't rattle either, because of a handy trick I came up with. I got some thin packing foam and melted it into the magwell. The blaster engages the magazine's notches itself, but the foam prevents the magazine from wobbling or making noises. Also makes loading it feel clean as fuck.
There's still a noticeable delay as the trigger only pushes darts into the flywheels. Not to mention, flywheels are noisy as fuck. No automatic or flywheel has ever eliminated those factors. And besides, the act of depressing the blaster's trigger until just before it breaks in anticipation of a limb popping out or head peaking a corner is really, really satisfying. The moment the trigger breaks, the dart will be going as fast as it's ever going go. No milliseconds of wait time for the flywheel friction to grab the rubber head, no half a second delay as the plunger system creates a closed breech; just a simple, mechanical release of pressurized air and foam into someone's face.
Also, if you like these, you should check out it's final evolution. The blaster is called a Rev-shot, and it was developed by simplifying the initial build of Boltsniper Armament. Now this is a man who likes his foam. Comparing Charlotte to the things he builds is like comparing a WW2 Garand to a modern M39 EMR.
Imagine any of your modified springers. When primed, you can pull back the trigger a bit until you start to feel pressure. Continuing to pull fires the blaster. This is that responsiveness you're talking about right?
Now imagine a stryfe and how it's pull is. You know that as you pull it back, it slowly pushes the dart forward until it meets the flywheels and then fires. In both the cases I just mentioned, there's a space franctions of millimeters where on one side of the line you arnt shooting, and on the other you are. Only difference is with the flywheel you have to know that space by muscle memory, or get clever with mods (secondary trigger spring that only engages when you get close to that distance)
Secondly about the delay, again if you mod it right, you can pull both triggers simultaneously and fire. No pre rev time, starting with the motors at 0 rpm.
I'll give you that they get noisy though. But in most game types I play it hardly matters (HvZ, TDM, FFA in an open field because Texas). I'm right there with you that if I have to play with tons of cover and it's a free for all where stealth is key, I'm packing a springer.
>Amazon scalper prices
Longstrikes are like $500 a pop. Fucking crazy. Really wish I had grabbed one when they were on shelves. Or Hasbro would re-release it.
I've got a question for you guys: are the darts between different lines different sizes? My wife's convinced that the zombie strike darts are bigger than the elite darts, and I just saw the Modulus clip pack at a local shop. Could we use those darts with zombie strike guns? I wouldn't imagine they'd be any different in any practical way.
All bullet tip darts are 7.2cm. The old suction cups, whistlers, and taggers are longer and have a bulky head. Most off brands have a similar bulky head. Some Buzzbee darts are longer, some X-Shot/Zuru darts are shorter.
The most ideal dart I've come across for magazines are the X-Shot/Zuru Bug Attack darts. They don't have the rubber tip most Nerf Darts have these days, they have a foam tip. This means two things, they lack that compression hole which reduces the impact but also greatly reduces accuracy, but the foam tips drag less when inside the magazine allowing for faster feeding. 30 for $5 also beats out Nerf's prices.
So a friend is letting my dig around in his Ultra Tek Snipe to modify. Anyone here done one before? What did you do and how did it go?
Does anyone here actually play with Nerf guns in competitions and meetups and shit?
Can you tell me what that's like? I want to live vicariously through you because I can't find a single Nerf meetup/war in my local area and I don't have the money or time to drive out of state to Melbourne just to Nerf.
I think I might play Humans vs. Zombies next year. What are some weapons I should look into? Is there anything worthwhile that could be carried concealed in a kydex holster? How do I into performance mods?
>blasters to look into
This largely depends on your expected play style and budget. My personal go-tos are either a stryfe or an elite alpha trooper.
Stryfe is flywheel powered, so you'll be a bit noisy and you have a small rev up time that *could* get you killed in a pinch. However it is completely semi auto, which is a huge boon for HvZ. The elite alpha trooper is almost twice the size as the stryfe, but very close to the same weight. It is a pump action, spring powered blaster with slam fire (hold trigger + continue pumping = 1 dart each pump).
Both take the nerf clips which you'll want to grab more of the 18 dart 'sticks' since they only come with tiny 6 dart clips. The stryfe sits at $20-25 and the elite alpha trooper is $~30. I'll give other good choices if these won't work.
> How to Mod
For what you're doing, there are 2 major kinds of mods, both depend on the power source of the blaster.
For a springer like the alpha trooper, the main thing is to get a better spring. Note that this will make it harder to prime, so there is such thing as too much. If you do t want to invest the time searching g for the right size and power of spring, you can do what I did and just order a kit from various after market nerf parts makers. I slapped an Orange Mod Works kit in mine and it's great. But like I said earlier harder to prime and makes slam fire difficult.
For a flywheel blaster though, there's quite a bit to do. You'll need to work with wiring, possible replace the motors, a new battery power source and appropriate charger. So there's some good news and bad news. Good news is a new (lipo) battery costs about $8-16, bad news is a charger is around $50. Also if you plan to use a higher voltage battery (14volts vs ~7), new motors are a must which is another $5-9 apiece. But all this will give you a blaster that howls when revving and shoots around 120 feet per second.
In both cases you'll have locks to remove, but that's mostly a case by case thing.
I'd have to see a picture before I could say for certain. If the one(s?) you buy don't fit, there's a few good guides to making your own out of cardboard on the youtubes. I'd also recommend finding a tactical vest if you plan to carry lots of clips/blasters.
Its really not as bad as it sounds. I've taken several hits at that speed to the face and yeah it doesnt feel great when its happening, but you get over it.
Also since when do you carry your blaster at eye level, or even point it that high when you arnt paying attention? The only time you accidentally shoot is if you get surprised, an even then you blasters is probably pointed waist height or lower.
I've never even heard of that thing before, the performance may not be that impressive by today's standards but the function of that thing is pretty fantastic. It would be pretty cool if they could revisit that mechanism with Elite level technology and maybe an internal mag or something. It would probably be one one of the best sidearms on the market if they pull it off right.
In terms of performance of range, it might not be the best pistol, but in performance in rate of fire, it outclasses everything without going into electric territory. And that's brilliant for a pistol.
I decided to buy a nerf gun today while I was christmas shopping. Basically all they had was the MEGA series, and frankly most of them look fugly as hell.
This is the only one not covered in uneven and overlapping textured camo. Feels good to hold and shoots harder than I expected. Havent owned a Nerf gun for like a decade.
Anybody else had problems with their Strongarm randomly failing to fire?
Even with the exact same dart it will sometimes drop within six feet and other times it won't even leave the chamber. Then the rest of the time it fires fine.
Sounds like your darts are slipping out of the barrel before you fire. I take it you're pointing the gun down while you run? Try holding the barrel upward instead so gravity works for you to hold the darts in instead of making them partially slide out, which disperses the firing pressure and causes duds like that.
Airsoft is for autists who can't have real guns and weird milsim guys, paintball is a full-on sport with a pretty pricey buy-in for a decent marker, and you tend to get in trouble for shooting people with real guns. Much as I love my fancy pants collection of live arms, Nerf guns never stop being fun, and they've only gotten cooler as I've gotten older. Plus, it's a great way to teach kids trigger and muzzle discipline while still letting them have fun playing war games in the yard.
That company makes some of the coolest foam blasters, bar none. They just brought back a Mare's Leg style mag fed lever action that uses a metal mechanism sturdy enough to be flipcocked Arnie-style.
I have my doubts. If they used casings like some of the Ultra Teks do, that'd be one thing, but the reason double-stack mags work on real guns is because the rigid rounds hold each other up for chambering, and that wouldn't play nice with foam.
Why do you people who irrationally hate airsoft always ignore the huge number of people who own both guns and airsoft. And if airsot is for autists paintball is no better, both amount to running around and having fun by shooting fake guns at other people.
Hell, there are people who do nerf, airsoft, paintball AND shoot real guns.
General consensus seems to go with the bow and the giant rifle being crap, the smaller hand guns (magus and the six shot blaster) being great and I can personally attest to the the Rotofury and Big Shock being pretty badass,
>Quotes "the six shot blaster"
>Later calls it by name
Ur doing it rong
I just got a Rotofury for Xmas, and I really like it. It's basically a combat shotgun that you can slamfire. It feels good. I'm jelly about the Cycloneshock, though.
Seriously considering picking up a Rebelle Codebreaker because I've been looking for a full-length crossbow, and I have to admit the Rebelle clamshell aesthetic is appealing. Anyone here have any word about how good the Rebelle line is?
I bought Modulus.
I didn't want to but Tesco had Nerf sale and Modulus was 61% off.
There was only one left and they were out of Retaliators so I grabbed it.
Now I feel like I've betrayed my old Stryfe.
Hi. I'd like to paint some nerf guns but I'm curious as to how you paint parts that slide wihout scratching the paint off.
For example, how would I make paint stick to the little flap that lets you unjam darts when sliding it back into the gun to open it would make the paint scrape off? Sand down the gun for a better stick? Certain type of primer?
I don't irrationally hate them, but my experience with anyone who has airsoft as their sole 'gun-related' hobby is usually a bratty teenager with an outright willful ignorance of real guns. You should have heard the cries of 'dude that's totally illegal' the first time I showed my younger brother's friends my WASR after they had just gotten done talking about how cool it would be to have a real AK.
Was there anything really wrong with the shells, function-wise? I personally thought it was the coolest possible application of a blaster, being that it was a brass-ejecting flip-cocking levergun, but I never got one for myself sadly.
>tries to call someone out on a mistake
>mistake was never made in the first place
never change internet, never change.
I won't say the Cycloneshock is a bad blaster because it's no where near close to being one. But I will argue that the Rotofury does posses a slight advantage by having a larger ammo capacity and being pump action. Both blasters require two hands to operate, and in situations like that, I find pump actions to be far more comfortable to use. Also, it just *feels* badass in your hands.
I'm sure other modders can give you better instructions on this, but I believe lightly sanding any area with moving parts before painting will help with paint sticking/scratching/rubbing. Adding a topcoat will certainly help as well, but since you're adding layers (no matter how minimal) of paint to the plastic, the reduced clearance will certainly add more friction and resistance, which will eventually ruin any paint job.
So yes, careful sanding of areas you plan to paint should help reduce the amount of paint that scratches off around moving parts.
Thanks for the advice. What about getting rd of the nerf logos? Take a hobby knife to them to slice most of it off then sand to a flat surface?
And maybe this is dumb but wouldnt sanding the outside down leave scratches that are visible through the paint?
Educate, after a few deep breaths. Once I explained to them the rules surrounding military-pattern rifles, they were super stoked at getting the chance to handle the real deal. I can tolerate uneducated ignorance, but willful continued ignorance when the opportunity to learn has been presented does merit dick punching.
>string powered blasters
>mfw I can shoot ruined darts that would otherwise fail to shoot out of a spring powered blaster
I'm stockpiling older darts with shrunken/stepped-on foam for my own Codebreaker to use.
If you're modifying your blaster, it's either because you want to get more serious needing with friends, you enjoy tinkering, or you just want it to shoot harder. The first two are hobbies and like any hobby it requires disposable income. Note that being "serious" with nerf is still leaps and bounds less expensive then say serious paintball or airsoft play. If you just want to shoot harder, get a $25 Walmart airsoft gun.
To actually answer your question though, putting in the ~$70 will net you a blaster that shoots around 120 feet per second (and yes that is still safe to shoot at people). Also it's worth noting that that investment covers replacement motors, and a good quality LiPo battery and charger (the expensive bit) which will make your later flywheel mods less expensive, since you only need the one charger for multiple batteries.
Longshots are generally regarded as one of the top tiers (have been for years and years)
Elite alpha trooper has gained some notoriety. But I can't speak from personal experience on that one.
Firestrike (the nightfinder replacement) is as reliable as it's predicessor which could be made into a wide variety of very powerful pistols.
Like >>5366252 said, longshot is pretty go to, but the blaster and a good drop in kit will total close to $80 (retail $40, only familiar with OMW stuff so i assume ~40 shipped is decent).
I actually have an alpha trooper fully modded and total that was nearly $60 ($30 retail, ~20 for a kit then shipping). Thing is super fun and works well.
Lastly the firestrike is ultra cheap. $10 for it and another 10 for OMW spring (you could likely do better at a hardware store, but i couldn't be bothered). Mine has gotten some shots to go 80ft flat. Definately my go to secondary.
And sorry to discourage with the modulus. Unfortunately its just how it is with the electronic blasters to be so much on top of cost to mod.
They're expensive if you buy kits. Materials are less so, but Ghetto-rigging is pretty much the only way to go (Power Drill Battery into the stock motors on my Demolisher is actually going well)
Latest project, building an AK modulus for a post-apocalyptic LARP. Running either this or a slingfire with my hammershot. Its apparently a limited ammo kinda game so a flywheel blaster might not be best. Gonna look cool once its finished though. Video:
>drop in kit
>$40-80 to mod a blaster
Jesus Christ nerf got pathetic. Where'd all the craftsmanship go?
1. Use a 1/2 inch drill bit to remove the air restrictor. If I recall correctly you can access it by opening up the plunger tube.
2. While your in the plunger tube. Throw some spare strings in there. A stray nightfinder spring should be enough.. But if not. Go to home depot and find some ever built springs.
3. Use epoxy putty to straighten anything that looks like it won't hold up to the springs you put in.
4. Take a hacksaw to the front to get rid of the 3-4 inches of range dampening pseudo barrel in there.. If you've got time and creativity. Find a way to pretty up the gaping hole this makes.
5. But the front gun (if you've got the full model). Use the spring from here to add a little extra power to a firestrike/nightfinder. Dispose of the rest.
Nerf isn't what it was back in your day. DIY mods simply wont get you the same performance some of the drop in kits will, and if they do, a DIY mod will likely put more stress on the blaster.
Its not like the kits are just plastic and a few springs either. Most of the good ones include barrels/breeches/catches made of polycarbonate or metal, reinforcement plates, and of course springs for the plunger and catch. And all that works with no tools besides a couple screw drivers and some glue to instal. Its the best option for people who have very limited time/experience or dont have access to most tools. Practically stupid proof.
And people are still churning out garage mods. Brass breeches never left the scene and brass barrels is still extremely common. MTB is probably the best group who turn out high powered garage mods with guides that are easy to follow. Which i feel might be part of the issue with people not just hammering it out on their own is the community surrounding DIY mods is very close knit and unwelcoming (nerf haven).
I admit that nerfhaven is pretty... Harsh. But much like here, I found success with the general rule of lurking till you're not a scrub.
Still. The idea of spending more than a blasters price on nodding one... At that point you might as well go all in for a homebuilt plusbow or something
And it may be my "old man" status but nerf missing has always been about the tinker and creative for me. Seeing what one can come up with with just a hand full of parts and a hacksaw.
I can see what you're saying in all but the middle point. A fully done up stryfe and a plus bow are completely different in every way. One is more for fast, CQC oriented games at super stock velocities and the other is for the foam equivilant of woods ball where accuracy (not by volume) reigns and velocities are upwards of 140.
Seeing. N-strike. Long shot for practical, magstrike for fun
EagleEye motherfucker (got it at a yardsalw)
Hammershot. Such a sweet beast with a surprising amount of power behind its weiiiiird mechanism and tiny plunger
Whatever the rebell Hammershot is called. Don't have one. But equivelancy has to count for something.
Tough.. Still probs Long shot.. OH. Or singled buzzbeebigblast
Define modern. Late nstrike had some real duds.
Recon and it's clones. Deploy and longstrike pretty notoriously.
Elite wise.. I think the breakaction shotgun looks like utter shit.
Nerf guns today are
A. Better because of technology improvements
B. Worse because won't somebody think of the children!
C. The same as they have always been
I need a new way to efficiently pester people and want to know what I'm getting into
Right now I'm using a bow and arrow thing with suction cup arrows
Can be shot straight for about 30 feet, can be increased by about 10 more feet by angling
Not sure how that stacks up
A hands down.
I'd honestly say we are in a new golden age of nerfing. Out of the box Nerf blasters will hit 40-50ft flat, nearly double that with mods. The Rivals line has been a huge success despite various potential pitfalls. Even competitors like BoomCo or BuzzBee have some good stuff out there. The community is very much alive and active, and aftermarket parts and accessories are readily available.
It's a damn good time to be flinging foam.
Tough call, but I'd say alpha trooper simply because my other "primaries" haven't been finished being modded. The pump action (read: slow RoF) gives a lot of control and is a good 'disadvantage' to have since it forces you to be careful with your shots until you know you can hit your target.
Don't own any, and likely never will unless something huge happens. But I'd say Magnus because internal clips need to be a more common thing.
Again, don't have any. Toss up between longshot or hammershot. The LS would be really nice to have, but overall cost to mod it is more than what I'm willing to commit with 3 other projects on my plate. And I'm really skeptical about the hammershot's priming method. Seems really awkward. Maybe someone at HvZ next semester will let me handle theirs to just get a feel for it.
No clue. Probably cop out again with the hammershot variants.
Though mine isn't done, I'd have to say stryfe due to what I've seen of other's that have been fully modded. It's tough to beat a blaster with that much mod potential at that price point and size.
Not owned:Thunder blast. Thing is barely worth $12 and even then I'd be hesitant to get one since I already have a demolisher.
Owned: it's a bit older but I'd say the Reflex IX-1. Small, but still bulky enough to not fit comfortably into a pocket, only 1 shot, and it's reverse plunger.
And mine doesn't appear to work properly. I pumped it from full to empty and it shot like 2 metres. So I read about it and tried it with 20 pumps. Still only shot like 4 metres.
Is low range a common issue for Titans?
bought myself a rapidstrike because i liked how it looked.
not looking to do much work on it, what are the least effort mods that can be done to it?
how much effort would it be to rewire and slap on some AAs?
>tfw modding nerf is hard
Not that guy, but I remember when modding my nerf gun meant wrapping a rubber band around the plunger for my Nite Finder.
Then again, you're talking about an electronic nerf gun, so I doubt it'll be that easy.
Which is why I enjoy my nerf guns stock.
So what's the real issue with the centurion? It looks cool as hell, so I've been looking at getting one, but I keep hearing that it's shit. How so? Is it an internal mechanism thing? Or the weird MEGA darts?
Not him, but to be fair "simple" =/= non-performance. The vast majority of mods for nerf guns are very simple, more so when you consider aftermarket drop in kits.
In any case, yes it would be easy to add a AA battery tray to it. And while it will give the same voltage, you'll have to replace the batteries far more often which easily makes it more expensive then the Cs it takes normally.
Now that's a fucking awesome answer.
Thank you, now I know its not worth the mucking about with the gun. All I have it for is looking cool and occasionally shooting the cat or my brother
I love the design of the Zeus, but it's not being sold in Australia because it's potentially dangerous or something? I don't remember and haven't seen too much information.
If I ordered one overseas, is there a realistic chance customs will realize it shouldn't be here and seize it?
It is super easy to modify the RS to take AA batteries. If you want to do stock voltage, get some AA to C battery spacers (Google) and rechargable AA Ni-Mh batteries or something. You can even use the stock tray.
Good trigger discipline is good for anything with a trigger. Do it often enough and you won't even put your finger on the trigger of a cleaning bottle without immediate intent to use it.
Found a Zeus at goodwill today for $25, came with everything. Haven't dug out some batteries for it yet, but it looks like it'll work fine. Seems like the magazine can take more than 12 balls, but it'll probably run into feeding issues.
I wound up getting a hammershot after a few rounds of playing nerf with my cousins, and a triad after that. The hammershot is pretty nice but it feels like, if I ever find an all out nerf war, it'll be underwhelming.
What are your guys opinions on good primaries? I've heard the EAT is rare/expensive, and to me that extra giant dart on the demolisher looks like a bunch of useless bulk.
Also if I take the triad apart to remove the air restrictor is it going to be a bitch to put back together? That dart selector seems like it's going to be trouble.
They recently started making new batches of the EAT. New paintjob, but internals are the same. Goes for around 25-30 bucks. Also, comes with the crappiest mags of all the alpha troopers, but they're easy to switch out.
Are there any good chinese Nerf clones? I'm little bit lacking in budget because the Hasbro distributors here are kiking everyone
The air restrictors is actually makes the "selector" work. If you gut it, you'll end up with a triple shot blaster that only barely hits 10 ft. Also just even getting into the AR system is a pain in the dick.
If you really want to mod it, just order a blasterparts spring (since I'm pretty sure they are the only ones to make one for it) and slap it in. Mine shoots 60ft flat with it in and I love it. Assuming you're in the US, containmentcrew is probably the best place to buy from to avoid shipping from Germany. They have a lot of neato things there, so keep it in mind if you want to dive into the deep(er) end of the hobby.
Not straight-up Chinese clone, but Buzzbee's Ultra-Tek Brute is pretty much a Stockade mixed with a Rapidstrike and actually accepts Nerf darts and magclipthingamajiggersfuckhasbro, and gets fairly good distance..
Buzzbee makes fairly good knock offs. Some things they improve, like their lever action has a metal lever compared to nerf's plastic lever. But lately their blasters look like ass for some reason.
Their older ones look better, but they have the shell system which is a pain in the ass.
Question for the modders here
I saw image related in a youtube video and i wanna do something similar using the same blaster (rebelle rapid red)
Im obviously sanding and painting over the entirety of the thing. Will a clear coat be enough to keep the paint on the grip from rubbing off or should i find some way to wrap it?
do you have draw up of the mag well? i would like to make something similar.
If you use an expensive 2-part clearcoat like this
You would get a reasonable amount of wear and tear out of it.
>MFW buzzbee released the best stock blaster this year
No plans for a re-released Rayven, but here's a third Rayven.
Which gun would be the best to mod into jhins combination gun? It would need a revolver with a buttstock/grenade launcer base and the ability to connect to a longer barrel. First time modding so I need a little direction