is this a place for model kits, cos I don't know where the fuck else to go.
why am I always the fastest person to post?
okay I will just wait here and grow old.
/tg/ is the best board to go to for tips on modeling on 4chan. There's the WIP (work in progress) threads, which is modeling general and each of the specific games has general threads where people post their models and advice. I forget what the WW2 games are called.
So you'll get much more help there and learn about more advanced techniques.
The stuff in the Gunpla threads on here and /m/ is mostly beginner stuff and they really don't do a lot of custom builds or dioramas.
I'm looking to invest in a ISU-152 model tank. Does anyone know any good review sites for historical accuracy on any said given models? I would imagine anything from big name brands to be decent. But I'm not 100% sure.
I like models but im not making any.
I bought a gold plated wotw kit to put lights in, after I saw this guy who made one float with one of those magnet base things. pic related.
I also plan on getting a 1:32 I think.. b-17 but that's to do when im an old man.
ive done models before but gave them all away. inc paints and everything ;-;
ive been downloading model mags lately. inc weathering mag which is good.
Just out of curiosity, is there modded B-17 model out there that's based off the Amazing Stories episode?
Ya knoe, the one where the cartoonist is trapped in the belly gun of the bomber with the landing gear shot off. So he draws a pair of cartoon wheels in his sketchbook and they magically appear.
here it is in decent res.
near the end you get some of the numbers for the plane. and the nose art.
the plane was called friendly persuasion but wasn't an official b-17.
I think theres enough information to model it if u want.
sorry I don't speak Russian.
nah there isn't a single recorded instance of that happening.
mmm Ill have to look up see if theres any good articles on it. flatter waters are created by putting silicone on a glass plate, then the white water is oil paint.
theres also clear resins you can get to do the same thing. but choppy oceans god knows.
well I had a look around.
the guy who makes cool dioramas.
Per Olav Lund
the white water is done by using fibers then coating it with resin. pic related.
link is how to.
What about non-plastic models?
Not for sale though. Some guy got his hands on the blueprints of a real one.
I guess ill just keep posting shit, encourages me to look for new stuff..
Yes I did. 1/72 scale. I entered a model competition I've this past weekend. A ton of great models. I can dump if you're interested.
Would anyone recommend a airbrush kit such as: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Precision-Dual-Action-AIRBRUSH-AIR-COMPRESSOR-KIT-SET-Craft-Cake-Hobby-Paint-/390955585150?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b06c4ce7e as opposed to the regular full tanks?
I'm trying to save on a few bucks and I don't really want to dish out a ton of cash for one of those tank ones.
This Panzer is 1/16 scale and allegedily 100% scratch built. Even had continental logos carved into the tires
Thanks buddy. I'll look into it.
Oh, well, where were you when buddy first asked? Seems you only appear when it's time to disagree with my Dragon suggestion.
Not butthurt, just amused. I've never heard of Bronco, but I do more picture-lookin' and review-readin' than actual modelling (don't we all?)
I have a bit of modeling ADD, so I'm currrently working on multiple kits right now. Here's some that I'm working on right now:
1/35 Dragon M4A1 76mm: Need to finish up the tracks, then paint.
Two 1/35 Dragon King Tigers w/Zimmerit: 60% done before paint.
1/35 Tamiya JS-2: Painted, but needs weathering and decal.
1/35 Tamiya M1A2 SEP w/TUSK: 98% done.
1/35 Dragon T-34/76 Mod. 1942 98% done.
1/35 Dragon T-34/85 Mod. 1944: 98% done.
1/35 Hobby Boss T26 Super Pershing: 98% done.
1/35 Tamiya M26 Pershing: 98% done.
1/35 Tamiya M4A3 Sherman: 90% done.
1/35 Exact T-80: Ready for paint.
1/35 Dragon T-80UD: Primed, ready for paint.
1/35 Zvezda T-90: just started the turret.
1/35 Dragon Nashorn: tracks needed before paint.
1/35 Dragon Stug III Ausf. G: painted, needs camo next.
1/35 Tamiya Tiger I: Needs decals
1/35 Dragon Late Tiger I: 98% done
1/35 Dragon Late Tiger I: painted, camo next
1/35 Dragon Panther G: paint ready.
1/35 Dragon Panther A: 98% done
1/35 Dragon Jagdpanther: tracks needed, paint ready.
1/35 Tamiya Leopard 2A6: Ehhhh....lost interest in this.
1/35 Tamiya Challenger II: 98% done
1/35 Revell T-72B: tracks needed, paint ready.
1/35 Tamiya M51 Sherman: Paint ready
1/35 Dragon SU-100: 98% ready
1/35 Trumpeter T-64B: paint ready
1/35 Trumpeter ISU-152: weathering next.
1/35 Tamiya JS-3: started it, but lost interest in it.
1/35 Italeri Late Tiger I w/zimmerit: this one suck compared to Dragon or Tamiya.
That's all I could think of right now when it comes to armor. I have a bunch of aircraft and ship models that I have yet to list.
I always liked tanks, and they're great subjects for dioramas. They're fun to weather, add mud, add figures to make your model be more life-like.
It's easier to "tell a tale" with a tank than with other modeling subjects.
But I also like aircraft and naval subjects. I just wish I have enough space for all the 1/350 kits I bought.
>1/350 kits I bought.
I know that feel
I'm currently sitting on a Tamiya 1/35 pbr kit I've got assembled but not painted. I just need to find the motivation to eventually get it done. I've also got a Tamiya humvee I need to assemble and paint
I'd say Planes are easily in the lead there followed by trains then ships and tanks tied for third.
Pretty much everyone starts with Airfix kits. Pick something you think is cool and go for it. Planes are always a good starting point because they generally have less fiddly parts with Helicopters and ships often being the fiddliest.
If a kit inspires you to make sound effects it's the one for you at any level point in the making.
>I'm trying to save on a few bucks and I don't really want to dish out a ton of cash for one of those tank ones.
Avoid those really cheap tankless compressors like the one shown in that particular ebay listing. When they're THAT cheap, you can bet they're diaphragm compressors so they'll be far less reliable and very, very noisy.
If you're set on going tankless, spend a bit more and get a tankless piston compressor; pic related. They're far less noisy and more reliable than diaphragm compressors.
While we're on the topic, I'd suggest not getting a dual action airbrush as your first airbrush. Single action is simpler to manage and will work just fine.
which primer is best primer. not that I expect you to know.
but this one says fine. I wonder if I can spray it into my airbrush will be okay.
I don't think you will get someone to say this cheap thing is good. but if it blows air it will probably work.
question is why don't you want to spend money.
you want urgently
you wont use often
other reason not to save more and buy decent?
Depends on which Tamiya and which Dragon. Pre-1999 dragon kits were terrible, accuracy and fit wise. Newer kits are awesome, easily beating Tamiya kits in regards to accuracy and detail, but often times, their kits are unnecessarily complicated. For example, in a Tamiya kit, one part may be completed with 2 parts, but on a Dragon, that same part would have 20 parts, and they look the same once you glued them together.
Tamiya is Tamiya. They're called shake and bake kits for a reason. You can build fantastic models out of Tamiya kits with very little effort.
That's a terrible idea. I've done it a few times in the past when I ran out of paints and had to resort to aerosol cans, and they clog up your airbrush fast, thinned or not.
Why not just buy those in the bottle?
>For example, in a Tamiya kit, one part may be completed with 2 parts, but on a Dragon, that same part would have 20 parts, and they look the same once you glued them together.
I see your point here, but to me this is one of my favorite things about Dragon kits. The L70a I just bought has 730 parts. Its all part of the fun
I'm thinking of getting back into models but I haven't done it over a decade and I was fairly young at the time. Previously done the standard airfix planes, warhammer, 1/72 & 1/48 models.
I've been looking at Tamiya and found a few models, mainly 1/35 tanks, that I like. The problem starts with Tamiyas huge range of paints, brushes, weathering kits and various tools.
I'm not particularly which brushes / paints I'd need and Ideally I'd like to have everything to hand before constructing / painting. Tamiya also seem to be completely void of actual paint sets leaving the tedious task of getting everything individually.
Youre thinking too much about it. Just buy a 1/35 kit that interests you. Start with that. As for paint, thats just what it takes to get started. Once you buy all those paints, you wont have to for a while. If you want to go cheap about it, Go buy a candy bar at Michaels. When they give you the receipt, itll have a 40% off coupon on it (sometimes 50%) and use that to buy a basic Testors paint kit. I think theres 8 bottle paints, a blade, some glue tips, and sandpaper. Its a start
why join one, just read what you need and post here.
being a brit I enjoy http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/
and the group build threads on
are usually awesome. especially the b-17 one.
depends what you want to model?
Why the FUCK is this so expensive?
I accidently some b-17s. but don't worry I`m not going to crash them.
I got 2 cos I don't know what planes im going to make. I want one chrome and one olive.
maybe sally b and XB-38
how are mustangs niche? id consider mustangs and p-47 lightnings some of the most popular planes modelled.
same with german stukas & messerschmitts. theyre still more expensive.
I can't decide.
Churchill Mk IV AVRE or Churchill Mk VI?
what is the red ring on the compressor pressure thing for? the manual isn't clear about this. I know the top bit sets the pressure.
That ring is the lock nut for the pressure control knob on the regulator. You use the lock nut to lock the pressure control knob at a specific pressure setting. Locking the pressure control knob prevents vibration from the compressor from turning the pressure control knob.
Also, depending on the design of the regulator and control knob, vibration from the compressor can cause thread chattering, which damages the threads. Locking the pressure control knob can help preserve these threads.
>I thought the nob was already locked cos I have to pull it up to turn it to adjust the pressure.
To save on money, manufacturers will use one kind of regulator design that can be used in different configurations. It's not unusual to find regulators that have lock nuts, even though it's equipped with a push-lock pressure control knob.
My compressor has a push-lock knob and it has a regulator that has no lock nut, but the regulator still has threads to accommodate a lock nut.
oh okay, well it doesn't seem to make a difference to anything so ill just leave it tightened.
I did see someone say theyre very easy to replace yourself if they go faulty, so that's a plus.
Now all I have to do is wait for the rest of my paints, brushes and glue to arrive on monday.
And after that there's so many vehicles to buy.
I think I'll start trying to do the "Evolution of British Tanks" and have every vehicle from the Cruiser 1 to Challenger 2.
Also have a nice set of Churchills.
I have been downloading weathering magazine theyre on kick ass torrents.
very good reads once you get over the fact they are one big product advertisement.
would buy if I had money, good toilet reading.
Ill have to check it out as well. I have zero experience with weathering but want to try it out. I mainly build 1/24 cars and make them look brand new and pretty. It seems odd building something to make it look dirty and crappy.
Well you don't have to go to such extremes, the techniques can be used sparingly just to add a little realism. a bit of mud on the wheels.
Personally I find wrecks very appealing to model. when I can find something cheap id like to create something like this, on a plaque.
The textures and stuff make it an interesting challenge.
The AFV Club Churchills are great.
They are newer and more detailed than the older Tamiya Churchills and they offer a lot more variants, but they are also harder to built.
I highly recommend AK Interactive/Ammo weathering products. (Most of the products are the same because Ammo was started by the guy who created the products for AK Interactive after AK fired him.) They both offer books/magazines which go into detail how to do all kinds of weathering. You can also find tutorials of how to use their products on Youtube.
No, but there are some aftermarket resin interior sets.
Only AFV Club's T-34s have a clear variant with a full interior, though the non-clear variants still come with the full interior.
Lots of good armor reviews here: http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/revafv.htm
Much appreciated. Do you know if Scale hobby ships abroad and whether I'll get fucked by taxes?
In return have a rather nice blog I stumbled accross.
panzerserra [dot] blogspot co uk
Sorry about the [dot] but 4chans being a cunt.
I don't know of any online hobby shops in the UK nor how much ScaleHobbyist would charge for international shipping. You might try looking on EbayUK since most of the M4A4 kits are older and OOP.
You could ask around on Britmodeller.
Good day gents! Greetings from the Lego General! I was just lurking. Very cool hobby! I could really get into this! But I have a question for you all. What is the best scale? I was thinking 1/16 but I want a large collection of rather small, detailed kits. Thanks in advance!
Well I asked because I have heard planes are easier to put together than tanks for a beginner.
And one of those starter kits was what I planned to go for, Airfix seems to have a nice selection.
yea that's what id start with. something common where thers gonna be loads of tutorials and build threads to follow along with.
spitfire or messhershmitt come to mind. but it depends on what you like.
Alright guys, I'm starting a new project and I need a lot of advice.
I'm getting some frogs and maybe some big bugs( actual living ones) and I wanted to make some crazy centerpiece for their terrarium.
I was thinking I'd make some sort of crashed aircraft and make it look like it's in some sort of alien world where everything is huge.
Some opinions first:
Science fiction or historical or a pseudo-historical piece? Right now I'm thinking Vietnam -era equipment but I'm undecided.
If historical, what kind of aircraft? Helicopter or plane? What model? I was considering a C-47.
Living or long-gone? I'm not sure if I'd want to make it look like the figures are actually up and fighting or if I'd just have some skeletons and guns lying around the place.
Now some modelling questions:
Is there a good place to get 1/35 or 1/48 skeletons or corpses?
If I'm working with a plane I'd imagine the wings would be ripped off. Does anyone know of any good tutorials for modelling such a thing?
Finally, I know there are lots of tutorials for realistic weathering but does anyone have any tips for making something look completely destroyed if I plan on making things very old?
fish tank wreck might do the job.
you can get allsorts.
do love a c-47
I know this reply is coming really late but I hope to give this thread some life. I'd really like an individual thread for scale modelling.
For construction you're going to want some sandpaper, a sharp blade, putty, super glue that sets easily, and plastic cement.
For cement I use Tamiya's extra thin cement. I originally went for only super glue and went totally overboard with it because I applied it from the tube. Now my model has spots where glue spilled out. The Tamiya cement comes with a little brush and it makes things a lot easier. It's also good for filling small gaps. For putty I use Testor's Contour putty but I don't think the brand will matter to you too much. You're going to be using this for filling larger gaps. For a blade I just use a regular razor blade but some people insist on having x-acto knives for better handling. It's up to you.
Paints and brushes are a much different topic. I'm under the assumption that you don't want to spend a bunch on your first model back into the hobby so what I tell you will have cost in mind. I use an airbrush so my technique is going to be a bit different. I use a very cheap set of Humbrol brushes that, I can tell, aren't going to last very long. You'll probably want a nice sized brush for doing large things that don't require much precision and then a fine detail brush. On top of this I think you should get a fairly large brush, with a brush-bit of about three quarters of an inch wide for large-scale basecoating.
The two most common types of paint used in scale modelling are acrylics(water-based) and oils(petroleum based). I think acrylics are cheaper and you won't need(though some would recommend) a specific thinner. I use all sorts of brands of acrylics: Tamiya, P3, Citadel, Vallejo. Just go with what's available to you for the colors that you need, probably Tamiya brand. For doing just a scale tank get the following: a can of black spray primer, a color that matches your desired basecoat, a color that is slightly lighter than your basecoat, black, and any other colors which are obvious to you. Finally, get a black wash.
Try to avoid doing a camouflage color scheme because it's going to be harder but at the same time, don't do something you don't want to.
I have thought about it but I haven't looked into it yet. I know that a frog's skin is much more sensitive than a human's but I'll be sure to not use anything that would be harmful to them even if it costs the appearance a bit. I don't really expect any sharp edges though. Regardless, I think it's a good way to start a discussion.
I think I want to do something more than that.
its adequate. some additions would be to get some masking tape to help with those straight edges and the canopy.
a razor or ting scissors would help in cutting out.
side cutters are useful for cutting parts off the sprue.
filler can be used in the gaps if they don't join well, but don't worry about that for now.
its easier to paint some things before theyre put together too much, like cockpit details.
another tip is to put clear canopys on with pva glue so it doesn't melt the plastic.
id have left the propellers off whilst painting the body, don't need small bits getting broken.
some simple grey primer wouldn't go amiss.
would save painting that patchy first coat.
Thanks for the advice.
To get started will a mat, cutters and file be fine? I plan to just buy a starter set at first then buy a can of spray primer, proper paints and brushes after seeing how that goes.
yea obviously u don't need any more than stated in the vid. but defiantly get some masking tape, cos u can use it for other things in life. cheap shit will do.
no doubt some fag will come along and complicate shit recommending air compressors and shit like that... they always do these threads... ignore them.
Does anyone have an idea if these two sets would be compatible with one another?
In the second link you can see a tank that is a regular setup and not a AVRE.
Same manufacturers. Same scale.
It probably won't. The Voyager upgrade kit is for this one http://www.hlj.com/product/AFV35167/Mil (35167).
It might work if you only want the front track guards and some turret upgrades, and the engine deck.
Not really sure.
You have an extension that automatically quotes the selection when you click a post number, and you accidentally selected it on the way to clicking it.
andrea models makes these pin ups but theyre only 54mm high and they want 45pounds each.
what idea did I present? I was complaining that theyre a lot of money for such a small model. theres loads of them, I want them all, but not at that price. and size.
>I was complaining that theyre a lot of money for such a small model.
I know. I was noting that Andrea Models' idea for pin-up sets was, despite heavy pricing issues, a good one nonetheless. It had nothing to do with you.
ive been reading up on mig weathering products, I didn't realise they had a forum. the quality of work there is amazing. worth checking out.
This thing is 1/35, but tiny. I probably won't bother to paint the interior since you'll hardly be able to see it and there isn't much detail.
if I was to get some of these so I could quick change between paints, would the paint dry up cos theres the hole in the tube.
idk if anyone is interested in this but i made a small easy to store home paint booth.painting in side sucks and painting outside is even worse.
lol idk,it came out of a cnc lathe
five years and hundreds of spray cans with no problems.
I came to this thread off the frontpage because the thumbnail looked like a baby penguin reading a newspaper and then I suffered massive disappointment, thanks for the shit thread OP
What are some of the more abstract things you could model instead of transport?
u like thread post shit or will die.
lots of good resin kits from Thailand, sad don't have money.
>Why would you ever make a relaxing, enjoyable hobby turn into a competition?
Exactly. I've been to a few shows (I posted the IPMS pics above) and those guys are some of the most elitist prick faggots I've ever come across in a hobby. If you're not part of the "click" you don't place. The group that hosted that event all placed in each category. And they allowed sweeps so one guy won 1st, 2nd, and 3rd in his class. Ghey
I was reading about competitions last night.
they always know the winner.
its picking 2 and 3 that's the problem, in order to fish out a winner from the ones they like they have to go back to how well the models conform to the rules.
shit that people lose over are mainly
visible joins. unstraight things like decals, antennas, landing gear. the quality of the base.
that's as much as I can remember.
Voyager sets are fairly cheap, but insane.
Anyone know where i can get pick related for reasonable price and shipping? Been slowly picking the german armored train stuff but some of its proving to be rare/expensive