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WIP - Work in Progress General

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WIP - /wipg/ Painting and Modeling Thread
>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo

http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Archive 1.1.0.7.6.3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSCOaowF2UI

>LAST TIME ON /WIPG/:
>>55040861
>>
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So I tried first time ever to do proper edge highlighting. How did I do?
>>
>>55071825
Could be thinner but it's not bad.
>>
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First mini after a long way away from the hobby, how am I doing? Sorry about cell phone pic
>>
>>55071935
I like it. You've got some neatening up to do and you could brush some smog onto the pipes, highlight saws.
>>
>>55071988
Where in particular should I neaten up? I have a hard time telling when it's orky and when it's bad technique, y'know?
>>
>>55071935
You have your rust in reverse, you should be making the base of it brown stippled with brighter brown and orange then strategically drybrushed with silver on the outer extremes
>>
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Currently 3d printing a Dreadclaw.
Pain in the ass to clean and looks a bit wonky, but free from my college's print lab sure beats 75£ from FW.
>>
>>55072008
The glow on the eye and the blending towards the bottom of the teeth.
>>
>>55072052
its tiny
>>
>>55071935
Maybe a bit overboard with the rust effect?
Looks a bit ridiculous
>>
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what do you guys think so far?

probably gonna re-do the eyes in green.

Also do you guys have any advice on what to do with the runes on the bolter? I´d like to have them in a glowing effect but have no idea how to get there
>>
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>>55072070
No it's plenty big, the claws are just disproportionately large.
>>
>>55072099
Don't make your highlights so thick and obvious, having a good base instead of water color highlighting makes it look more solid and realistic
>>
>>55072021
I was trying to follow Duncan's video on Ryza Rust. I dunno if they got it backwards or I misinterpreted, but they go leadbelcher base>typhus corrosion layer>ryza rust dry.
>>55072081
I was trying for something like the raider stuff from fallout, shit's basically orange. Maybe a bad idea?
>>
>>55072251
dude when something is completely corroded it's fuzzed out with rust. Bolt a bunch of rusted metal together, slap it on a mek and kill things with it it'll bash other metal things, burnishing the edges. Duncan doesn't know shit and his videos are bad. Follow professionals.
>>
>>55072123
>>55072052

In the time it takes you to print and clean that, you could have easily earned enough money to buy one from FW by doing basically anything on campus. Fuck, even handing out flyers.
>>
>>55072052
When will 3d printing be good?
>>
>>55072272
If I go back in and hit the edges with metallic will it fix it, or should I just try again on the next one?
>>
>>55072275
By that logic doing anything is a waste because for the money and time invested in miniature games you could have bought drugs.
>>
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>>55072275
Putting a print going over night and coming back the next day doesn't take a lot of time.

Also it's still the summer holidays so I can have a shit load of prints going at the same time cause no one else is using them. Just put a predator going as well.
>>
>>55072300
It already is if you have an SLA printer.
Also one of the biggest quality bottlenecks is the quality of the 3d models themselves.
>>
>>55072329
I'd post a relevant Spurdo, but I'm on mobile.

Well, sure. If you leave them that way. I assumed you were going to sand the flat panels or use a weak solvent bath to fuzz the layers together. If you don't mind them looking like that and not being able to paint them without the jaggies killing your brushes, it's far easier to just print models.
>>
>>55072314
Strip it with a heavy duty degreaser like Super Clean
>>
>>55072329
I thought you shouldnt leave a printing printer print unsupervised like that
>>
>>55072518
3d printing is fine, its laser cutters you cant leave unsupervised
>>
>>55071825

Pic is a bit blurry
>>
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>>55072518
No sensible person should be expected to sit next to a 3d printer for 17 hours while it does it's thing.

>>55072420
Well the cleaning is a huge pain but in the end it's not that more time consuming than properly cleaning resin.
>>
>>55072532
Indeed, if you leave a 3d printer unsupervised and it fucks up it'll leave a big glob of plastic for you to clean up.
If a laser cutter screws up it'll bring down the building in a blazing inferno.
>>
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Grot tank?
>>
>>55072632
Make sure it has the appropriate amount of haphazard armour plating and sure.
>>
>>55071825
A little thick, but you definitely got the right idea- I'd just invest in a smaller bruh and make sure to wipe any excess off the brush.
>>
>>55072632
One Bogey.... how does that even work?
>>
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did red lenses on my corvus, I like how they turned out but I'm not sure if next time I want to make the black area smaller. Still need to do a layer of ardcoat but I first want the other lenses done.
>>
>>55072618

that blob of plastic won't burn down the building but can fuck up the printer though if it gets wedged into a bad spot.
>>
>>55072915
That's true, still not on quite the same scale though and the thing you'd be printing to pull that off would have to be very awkwardly placed on the edges of the build plate.
>>
>>55071935
I like it! Now you just need to personalize it a bit with some remains of chipped paint on the rust-dominant areas, and some ork symbols or patterns on the shoulder plates! The skull face is great.

Also the duct-tape/ leather strap bands on the pipes in the back look like they need highlighting and shading.

Perhaps consider adding some caked/ dried blood to the buzz saws?
>>
>>55072658
>>55071861
Thanks. Im planning to try fix it up a bit where I got sloppy.

>>55072556
Phone camera sucks cock.
>>
>>55072099
It looks like something made out of candy
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>>55072420
>>55072329
>>
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A little progress on the Tech Baron. Went with P3 Underbelly blue for the body armour, it complements the orange and yellow quite nicely I think. Not sure what those things hanging from his hip are, looks like either cartridges or cut off fingers.
>>
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>>55073207

ffs, phone
>>
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>>55072632
God damn that's cute. Where's it from?
>>
>>55073335
World War Toons
>>
>>55072314
Dont listen to >>55072510
The rust looks decent enough and I love the effect the rest of the model has. Certainly don't strip it!
>>
Should I put any basing accessories before or after I put on the texture pain?
>>
>>55073228
I believe they're supposed to be cartridges. Yours look like they've been worn down a little with handling.
>>
>>55073228
Radical/10
>>
Any suggestions on shading/weathering the flat panels of a monolith? Really kinda lost on how to properly do this. Also would getting the snow texture paint and seldomly applying it to the hull look too tacky?
>>
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So /tg/ I'm planning my next project to be alpha legion because I like their lore. But I need conversion ideas that would fit with the Alpha Legion.

Has any anon done something cool with Alpha Legion before?

My ideas right now are to potentially do CSM bodies with regular SM heads, or vice versa, or to even field a mix of SM models and CSM models as troops, all united under the paint scheme, though I'm not sure if that would be too confusing.

Pic related, its the basecoat scheme I wanna use, frankly the 'classic' deep blue with green highlights doesn't look great to me.
>>
>>55073861

Check out Migsula's old Alpha Legion stuff at his old blog
h t t p://legionofplastic.blogspot.com/

Also his IG
h t t ps://www.instagram.com/migsula/
>>
>>55072099
>Also do you guys have any advice on what to do with the runes on the bolter? I´d like to have them in a glowing effect but have no idea how to get there

anyobody?
>>
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First attempt at painting yellow. Still have to add more detail and correct some stuff, but I feel rather pleased. Any advice on how to improve or what to add?
>>
>>55074511

I think you could go deeper with the shadows for certain areas like the grooves of his armour or between the fingers. Also, try to pick out the very edges of the armour with something like Screaming Skull.
>>
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Started working on my Minotaur Primaris assault squad. Obviously not legal, but no shits given. Still very WiP.

These bits from Anvil Industry work quite nicely - minimal flash, no warping, small mould lines.
>>
>>55074511
>first time paiting yellow
>he does it on the expensive primaris captain

Just buy some cheap snapfit marines so you don't ruin expensive models.
>>
>>55075086
I really hate how those heads look.
>>
>>55075086
I think the heads look a little bit small. Weapons are nice
>>
What are the small blades that come with the CSM kit supposed to be for?
>>
>>55075209
making spikier doods.
>>
>>55075152
It's acrylic paint, it can be removed surprisingly easy. He's not ruining anything.
>>
>>55072275
75 ukp is 25% of my monthly salary.
>>
So, I'm back in the hobby after a hiatus of 12 years or so. I wouldn't say that my painting skills have increased over this time. What's the best way of becoming a better painter? Painting lots of miniatures with room for imperfections or spending a long time painting just a single one?
>>
>>55075745
What are you doing to earn such little money? apprenticeship or something?
>>
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Finished Damian, almost done with the Red Hood too, just have to paint his hands, guns, the gun holsters and do some weathering on him.
>>
>>55075890
oh shit I forgot to resize the image this time, sorry about that
>>
>>55075884
different parts of the world is also an option.
>>
>>55075890

Looks really nice
>>
>>55075921

Finland is not a 3rd world country
>>
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How's my first ever space Marine coming along?
>>
>>55075979
Abaddon is missing his topknot mate.
Looking good
>>
>>55072825
these look great, needed to get some liquid greenstuff on those joins though.
>>
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>>55075890
>all those shiny oiled up abs
>those tight rubber suits
>>
>>55075964
indeed it isn't, but you didn't specify a country now did you. Then you're probably just young, time to save up I suppose.
>>
Has anyone ever done an orange space marine paint scheme?

Any tips and tricks about shading, washing, etc.?
>>
>>55076258
Orange SM schemes are extremely rare for some reason, but I really want to see one
>>
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Working on some Khorne berserkers conversions. Thoughts?
>>
>>55076501
>'conversions' that are just the aos zerkers but with chainswords
every time. I mean, they look good, but its not even a conversion at this point considering everyone and their mother does it.
>>
>>55076327
The reason being orange is literally the devil. I find it harder to do a good orange than a good yellow
>>
>>55076529
>it's not a conversion because it's popular
If you're using parts that didn't come from the kit you're working on it's a conversion, even if it's a simple headswap
>>
I had some porblems glueing on the arms of a space marine, could the superglue i used to glue them on paperclip to make painting easier, interfere with the plastic glue?
>>
>>55075890
These are fucking beautiful
out of curiosity, what are you running in your crew?
>>
>>55076679

Yes, plastic glue works by melting the plastic and essentially welding the pieces together. If there's superglue on the surface the glue won't get in contact with the plastic.
>>
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First round of washes are done. Will fill in poorly-inked areas once this round dries.
>>
>>55073899
>Check out Migsula's old Alpha Legion stuff at his old blog
Holy fucking Hell.


>>55073861
I have some Alpha Legion "advisors" I toss in with my SM occasionally. I use cut-down Berzerker plastics with all the Chaos icons and arrows cut off, plus a mix of cut-down plastic 4e Chaos bits in my regular marines. Only field the Advisors (as Sternguard...) when I'm up against Ultramarines. I have a team of Fallen I use as well , for similar purposes..

sadly I painted them like ten years ago and am currently deeply ashamed, so no pics from me until their date with Pine-sol.
>>
>>55076529
>but its not even a conversion at this point considering everyone and their mother does it.
considering how old the actual berzerkers pack is, I'd say its alright.
>>
>>55077267
Damn, son, that's sweet. I'd still make the Judge's left-breast medal blue to make it "pop" instead of looking like a penannular brooch, but fine work nonetheless.

>>55076679
Yeah, the superglue roughens and coats the surface. Plastic glue melts the pieces together. It needs smooth-ish, clean surfaces to work. If you drill the arm with a pin vice to mount it on the clip (or heat the paperclip up in a lighter and then jam it into the shoulder joint at an angle) You not only have it pre-pinned, but it won't interfere with the plastic glue as much.
>>
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What should I use to cover the Styrofoam of this ruined building project? Plaster?
>>
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I would like to prime some models this weekend, but... dammit, Harvey!
>>
>>55077384
PVA glue will seal it if you want to spray it
just use 3-4 coats
>>
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>>55077384
Sorry fixed the picture.
>>
>>55077413
Apparently 4chan hates my pictures.
>>
>>55077393
Thanks.
>>
>>55076708
Leader:
- Arkham City Batman

Sidekick:
- Red Hood

Free Agents:
- Damian Wayne

Henchmen:
- Agent O'Connel
- Agent Ron
- Gotham Policeman
- Gotham Policewoman

As for the equipment, I'll decide what to buy once I finish painting them.
>>
>>55077427
>>55077413
Hold your phone at a 90 degrees to the left and take the picture. If it's upside down the you held it at 90 degrees to the right and don't hold the phone vertical.
We should add this to the sticky
>>
has anyone tried painting yellow Plaguebearers or demons of nurgle, and made them look good?
>>
>>55077460
Will do next time.
>>
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Almost done with my 7 Plague Marines, only got a few details left and the base, then they are done
>>
>>55077496
there's so much more you could do to them, they look half finished at the moment
>>
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>>55077384
>>55077413
Soak it with a couple coats of thinned white glue (2:1 water/PVA). After that you can do a couple different things; I use "CrackShot"-brand spackling paste, but most spackles or plasters will work well. Brush on a thin coat, and while it's drying you can use a busted-ass bottom-end hardware store brush to stipple the plaster for texture. The white glue will melt a little and bond the structure together, and protect the spackle as well. After that you can hit it with a spraycoat or brush it with a latex emulsion and paint as normal.

Pic related.

If you >really< want that smooth concrete feel, after the first brushcoat of spackle, use a dampened finger or spatula to lay down a second, smoother coat; if you put down more than one, you'll usually need more PVA to seal it properly.
>>
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>>55077361
Don't have any blue paints, but I went with Caliban green and I'm liking it a lot more.

Thanks anon
>>
>>55077838
>Dead or alive, you're coming with me
>>
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finished painting a Deathwing Termie as a test for a color scheme. Came out nice but I may go back and add more highlights later.
>>
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>>55077919
>>
>>55077934
Needs an extreme lighter bone highlight along the edges
>>
I want to make a cool arachnid Archmagos by plugging the Forge World Archmagos (pic related) into the abdomen of a spider of some kind and adding a bunch of cybernetics. Stuck with GW parts because of where I play, so I'm trying to decide whether to use the Lord of the Rings Spider Queen or their Shelob (metal, and would just need me to cut into the abdomen and the head to add the Magos/his weapons), or possibly the Goblin Big Boss spidey (who's resin, and I'd have to remove the goblin symbols and bitz too).
Which do you think would look best with some cybernetics attached? Working with metal is a bit of a pain, but manageable for a nice HQ model.
>>
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>>55078180
For quick reference, one of these three bugs. Magos's abeyant is on a 60mm base and his infantry base fits in the middle of that, so he should fit fairly well into any of the three.
Was going to allow the Archmagos to switch between a 60mm and 105/70mm base with magnets or something, though, since that way he can be used in Heresy AND 40k.
>>
>>55078228
Forest Goblin War Boss is probably your best bet.
>>
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I'm slowly finishing building up this fella. It's waaay bigger than I expected (for his price). I fixed some kork and bark on base, tormorrow I'll add texture paste and hopefully prime him.

It will be 1st time using airbrush, hopefully won't fukk it up.
>>
>>55072272

Regardless of what you think of his tutorial quality Duncan is a professional. He's one of the 'Eavy Metal painters and has been for years.
>>
>>55078281
Yea, I can see that one being less of a pain to work with too, once I remove the uppity goblin and his decorations. Maybe I'll plug him into the top of the abdomen and have some cables coming out of it lower down and running up to join his leg-bundle, just to wire him in a bit more obviously.
>>
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>>55075890
I'm saving this one, great work as always batanon.
>>
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Did some more work on my purple Rievers. Bases are pretty much done to.
>>
>>55078919
Anon, Riever question
Would a regular shoulder pad fit? Theirs looks special
>>
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>>55077838
God damn, GW's terrible white paint combined with oldschool models makes for some crusty white surfaces. I did my best, but the paint is seriously like chunky mud.
>>
>>55079021
The left shoulder pad is separate and yes, a normal marine shoulder will work. The right shoulder is moulded on.
>>
>>55079140
Much appreciated

Love the purple, btw
>>
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Started repainting my old AoBR boss.
I miss being able to pick up blackreach bits for cheap, we need another Ork starter 2bh, Nurgle a fat shit.
>>
>>55079123
Did you use praxeti white?
>>
>>55079324
white scar
>>
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>>55071751
wez agunna kill'em
>>
>>55076238
I mean there's also the possibility that we're not the same person. I could afford a Dreadclaw just fine off the job I do between my studies but I choose to print one because there are other things that it'd be wiser to spend that money on.
>>
>>55079495
>pinning model
>Push too hard
>Pin slips right into thumb
Well fuck, how're the rest of you anon's doing?
>>
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I hope that new "rolling pin" looking (or whatever it is) weapon for shrimpcopters are good, because this conversion that I've slowly worked on for a while would be great for it.
>>
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>>55079805
Talking about the one to the left here btw, haven't seen any better pictures yet
>>
>>55072052
Pretty cool anon
>>
>>55079717
I've got really bad gallstones at the moment and I'm not in the mood to do anything.
>>
>>55079123

Thin the shit out of it anon (with medium, not water) and wait until its completely hardened before applying another coat. Its a laborious exercise but it works.

I've been painting a lot of metal minis of late (mostly Necromunda stuff too) and I learned early on that GW's white was an absolute bitch.

I ended up giving my white about 24hrs between coats. That was the only way to stop it looking like complete shit.
>>
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Can anyone tell me what model this is?
I'm fairly certain it's a Dark Eldar model but I can't find it on the GW anywhere.
>>
>>55079717
Right after I posted this >>55077601
I went "huh, there's still some white spots. The only way that could happen is if.."
>I didn't seal the back half of the model
GODFUCKING DAMNIT.
So I'm waiting for the glue coats to dry on the back, and went in to re-ink the whole damned thing.
>>
I've got two galvanic magmavents, dark imperium, and the triumverate of girlyman to put together.

I really need to paint my MRM van saar doods. Necromunda c'mon!!
>>
>>55080366
I think that might actually be a Skorne model from Hordes.
Not sure though.
>>
>>55080366

DE mask and I think a warmahordes model.
>>
>>55075209
I slap em on their guns like makeshift bayonets.
>>
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Started working on some Snotlings for my Ogre BB Team.

I need opinions and ideas. Not sure if I should try and remove all weapons and maybe try to add some Brass Knuckles or something. Or only leave non-point weapons like clubs and maces etc since people wouldn't care as it is just Snotlings and what hard could they do.

I have plenty of the old pewter Snotlings so lots of gits to choose from. Though I sadly can't find the model of the one flipping the bird.
>>
>>55080522
>>55080528
Thanks guys. Skorne seems to be on the right track Aesthetically, but I couldn't find the specific model anywhere.
>>
>>55080981
Yeah, my though were Nihlators, but none of them match up with them.
On second look, it might be a blighted Nyss from the Legion of Everblight
>>
>>55080366
Looks like a pain in the ass to touch
>>
>>55081004
Yeah they also look quite close. But the leg armour doesn't quite match up.

As an aside, some of the Everblight stuff is cool. I've never really gave Warma/hordes much time, but those dragony models are making me reconsider giving it a 2nd look.
>>
>>55081004
fairly certain it's a Blighted Ogrun warspear body, the armour design is identical and the scale is right
>>
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>>55081138
It's the furthest one on the right
>>
>>55081127
>>55081138
Yep, that's it
>>
>>55073228
how do you paint like that?
>>
Is your social life as dead as your game? Are you bored out of your mind? Do you, too, want to complain about GW or anything else*? Why not join this Discord centered around mini gaming. https://discord.gg/GBcypkT
>>
>>55081356
Because that would mean interacting with other humans, something i'm strongly against.
>>
>>55081179
>>55081169
Awww shit. Cheers guys, I skipped over them because I figured they were Ogryn/ogre sized models.
>>
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Tried to paint a pale Blood Angel type skin tone and ended up making pale Indian looking fucker.
>>
>>55081409

...they are.
>>
>>55081536
Oh... Well then. From the picture I thought it must be a regular human sized model. Those are big fish hooks then.
>>
>>55081520
Looks med. to me, I think you're good.
>>
>>55078919
Hey man how did you manage that metallic look? I've been trying for yonks and still can't do it.
>>
>>55081582

Ye. 40mm base and all... what did you want to use it as?
>>
>>55080366
This is bait.
>>
>>55081745
I get it that's a funny.
>>
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>>55081745
>>
>>55073861
Anyone know of a glaze that's purple? I want to do the same effect, but for my soul drinkers. Should I mix it myself?
>>
>>55073861
Anyone know how to do this but for a dark crimson red? Like word bearers color.
>>
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Got a lot of work done on my Scouts Kill Team today. Took me all day but they look pretty good to me. Decided to make them Raptors. Got the base colors down and applied washes, just need to clean them up and apply highlights.
>>
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>>55081684
Not that anon but he might've just done a silver base with Druchii Voilet? Thinned down it almost worked as a glaze for this test-cron I did months ago. I didn't end up sticking with purple necrons but thought his reivers looked similar
>>
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So how do you motivate yourself to pick up your plastic and get to work, /wip/?
>>
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Layering is painful
>>
>>55081884

I'd suggest a couple layers of Carroburg Crimson and then a shade of Nuln Oil in the recesses of the model.
>>
>>55081701
I'm not quite sure yet. I didn't have plans to use him in an army as such. I just wanted to get one and convert it into something.I was thinking some kind of man-hunter type character. Maybe with a net or bolas and a catch pole.
>>
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Almost finished my Crisis Team, just gotta do this guy's jetpack and then paint up a whole bunch of magnetised flamers.

The highlights need a bit of cleanup but I might put that on the backlog, I want to get a painted army ready to go sometime this decade, can't be too perfectionist.
>>
I like the black power fist but the black legs aren't doing it for me.
>>
>>55071935
Hard to tell the rust from the brass
>>
Is it possible to use some combination of pva glue and varnish to make water effects? I'm too lazy/impatient to get the proper resin stuff.
>>
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Working on a test CSM to sort out the color scheme before moving onto the actual dudes. Just have base coats and wash right now.
Thoughts on the color scheme?
>>
>>55082366
Experiment...?
>>
>>55082372
Isnt this like cookie cutter csm colors? Am I missing something?
>>
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Anyone know how to do cigarettes in 40k modeling? I'm doing a waterworld-themed ork army
>>
>>55082366
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dug-ffEhqZU
>>
I know it sounds weird, but I was thinking steel wire or something
>>
i got sick of using standin tokens to represent mystic shell for age of sigmar, so I used the embossing machine at work and made a few out of leather.
>>
>>55082438

Cut a bit of wire to length.
>>
>>55082418
It's for a homebrew warband, I just wanted to make them red because they worship Khorne and I thought the grey pauldrons would help break it up a bit. Do you think it's too bland or unimaginative? Should I try adding grey to other parts?
>>
>>55072052
Where'd you get the models for it? It looks surprisingly detailed.

I wish there was AdMech stuff and that people wouldn't just post 10-minute renditions of space marines.
>>
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Wasn't exactly sure of where else to ask this, but thought I'd go ahead here seeing as we're all painters/modellers here.

I'm gonna be moving from Aus to Europe pretty much indefinitely at this stage in the next month and a half and obviously I wanna keep painting and gaming.

Has anyone had experience flying with paints internationally? Had any troubles? Been searched or stopped? Had things explode? I'd rather not have to buy a collection of 100+ paints all again if I can help it!

As thanks, here's a pic of my happiest Squig.
>>
>>55082852
I'd tape the bottles/pots shut and bag them in zip-locks to be safe.
>>
>>55082852
I'm in Guam and I can't get any sort of spray can shipped to me out here whatsoever. Also limited options to buy sprays here. I got an airbrush to combat the humidity as well.
If I need airbrush cleaner etc you can probably get on ebay as most sellers don't seem to give a shit if its legal to ship or not.
I wouldn't try to bring glues and anything like bulk greenstuff onto the plane. If you have an address maybe you can ship stuff to yourself? That's what I plan on doing if I ever get out of here.
>>
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I made myself a Brotherhood Champion posed in homage to the old model. How'd I do?
Proper gubbins and purity seals are coming soon.
>>
>>55082852
>>55082915
Yeah there's not a big change they're going to let you take the paints on a domestic flight. Liquid restrictions are pretty tight.

I would look into shipping the paints to your new address.
>>
>>55082940
>>55082852
Not this guy, but I thought the limit was 3oz per bottle and unlimited bottles (for... whatever idiot reason)?
>>
>>55080366
Looks like an Ogrun, one from Everblight maybe
>>
>>55082948
If I was this anon I would check with the airline. This can't be the first time someone has needed to fly with paint, and they may be able to give advice.
>>
>>55082917
the right one is totally,PENIS GUIDE ME!
>>
>>55083086

BROTHER-CAPTAIN IS THRUSTING IN THE DIRECTION OF THE ENEMY, OH YEAH
>>
Is it safe to leave plastic mini's in the Simple green for more than 24 hours if you are trying to strip the paint off of them? Will it damage the miniatures if I leave them in longer? I've never tried to do this before. They've been in for 24 hours, which is what the guide I saw said to do, but when i pulled one out and started scrubbing it with the tooth brush none of the paint was coming off.
>>
>>55081310

I've had plenty of time to practice. I can reccoment watching Ben Komets' Painting Buddha videos. They really helped me understand some of the things I was doing and formalize my painting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2G9CEdURNQ
>>
>>55083289
I've left stuff in Simple Green for weeks, it's not a problem.
>>
>>55083294
Not him, but can you share any insight on how to apply the loaded brush technique to minis, or are you just doing layers? I can do it fine on a large surface, but I struggle to apply the same principles to a miniature surface.
>>
>>55083289

Yeah, it's safe.
>>
>>55083299
>>55083321

Sweet, thanks guys. Does leaving it longer help loosen the paint any?
>>
>>55082438
Cut a staple and drill a small hole between the lips.
>>
>>55083312

I’ve experimented with that technique a few times but I can’t get the hang of it. But like he says, it’s more of a time saver which is more important if you’re working on commission.
>>
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Lots to do on armour and metal...
>>
>>55083335
It definitely can but after a point if the paint stays on you might need to try something else
>>
>>55083666
it looks very pleasing o the eyes. The dirty armor especially looks great!
>>
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>>55083666
Nice!
>>
>>55083667

What else is there that can be done?
>>
>>55083804
well I usually don't resort to anything stronger, but if paint is tough it can take several cycles of scrubbing with a brush then letting the mini soak for a while longer
>>
>>55083856

Gotcha. Thanks.
>>
>>55083666

Looks great mate.
>>
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Had my first lesson and mini at the local game shop. Any helpful thoughts or criticisms, this is my first time painting something like this.
>>
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>>55082366
>Is it possible to use some combination of pva glue and varnish to make water effects? I'm too lazy/impatient to get the proper resin stuff.
If you're okay with a bit of shrinkage, there's this stuff called "Gallery Glass". Extremely cheap, used for making fake stained-glass windows. It's a transparent, stainable acrylic gel that you can layer up; I usually do a layer of brown and then some green before blue mixed with clear for the top layer(s). Works well, cheap as Hell, non-toxic and looks pretty damned good. Also comes in red and green, if you want to ditch GW's special effects acryl gels (which are literally made in the same factory).
>>
>>55083946
Just to keep practicing. Also some beginner tutorials are a good place to start as well.
>>
>>55083946
You're going to regret using drybrushing as a crutch and applying it everywhere, especially on power armor. It only really works on full metal schemes or if you're going to glaze it afterwards. For anything else, it's best saved for chainmail, fur, sand bases, etc.
>>
>>55081934

watch a movie, listen to an audiobook, watch some youtube, do some other inactive thing where you can paint. idk
>>
>>55083975
>>55084066
Thanks for the heads up guys! I'll look into getting more painting lessons with the community then!
>>
>>55082917
Your pose looks way better than the original
>>
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>>55083946

If you know what you want to paint you can always copy a youtube tutorial ie

youtube.com/watch?v=flisNaXzW1g
>>
how would a metallic purple colourscheme look on dark eldar? what colour should i highlight with, silver?
>>
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So I was cleaning my airbrush, with normal tap water, and one of my model fell in the water. When I picked it up, some of the paint rubbed off... Confused, I attacked it a bit with a toothbrush and was able to scrub all the way to the plastic. Is this normal? I realized that that figure was one coated in Vallejo air metallic that was painted over in an ill fated experiment. Tried one of the normal painted ones and it resisted the toothbrush. So Tamiya primer and VMC basically melted because of a middle layer of VMAM. Is this normal?
>>
>>55084621
was it a resin model, and if so when you initially painted it, did you scrub off all the mould-release chemical? that was my main source of paint flaking off
>>
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Some work on my only Primaris, actually happy with how his skull wings came out.
>>
>>55084621

What kind of primer did you use?
>>
>>55084621

It's not the VMA's problem, you said you got down to the plastic. The primer job was botched. Tamiya primers are pretty good so maybe it wasn't applied right or left to cure long enough or something.
>>
Is wear and tear on a model's paintjob from regular play an actual concern? Varnishing seems like a pain.
>>
>>55085010
On metal and resin yes, but you have to treat plastic models pretty roughly to wear any of the paint off
>>
>>55085010
One thing to keep in mind is that some paints are quite sensitive to the oils and such in your skin. Purples especially will tend to turn a little pink if handled often.
>>
>>55082366
Gloss varnish over pva works for shallow, dirty puddles, especially with right paints.
>>
>>55085059
That's interesting. Doubt it'd be an issue with my colour scheme, but still, good to know.
>>
>>55085010
i dont varnish my models and i play once a week, eventually you notice that the edge of goblin ears, or weapons or helmets might scratch through to primer, but i'm fairly sure thats because i just pick my models up in handfuls instead of actually looking after them.
>>
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So much flesh highlighting... It's really enjoyable in one way buy suicide inducing at the same time
>>
>>55084892
Covenant corvettes, I thought they were plastic. I did give them a soap a water scrub at any rate.

>>55084996
Hm, I did do the in three batches, and that was before I started obsessively checking the humidity before going outside, so that was probably it. Oh well, I was going to strip the whole fleet anyway.
>>
>>55085010

Just buy a non-finicky can brand like Army Painter Anti-Shine or Testor's Dullcote and give all your models two quick spritzes from above. Should cover all the miniature pinching spots and handle all your protection needs without having to risk fogging or trying to achieve meticulous full coats.
>>
>>55081036
Probably still less painful than other dark eldar models.
>>
>>55085147
It looks amazing, anon. I really want to see what you do with the eye.
>>
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>>55073861
>>
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I'm trying to replicate a base inspired by the summer in Stalingrad: mud, destroyed walls and roads, random rubble and rubbish.
Any inspos?
>>
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Highlighting is shit but this is only the second squad I've ever painted so I'm willing to call it good enough and move on so I can get a table ready army going. Still need to paint weapons (they're magnetised).
>>
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>>55085780
There are entire books written about dioramas like that, you should be able to find plenty. Companies like AK Interactive, MIG and Vallejo should have plenty.
The AK Diorama book should probably be perfect for what you want.
>>
>>55083946
looks good. the metalics could use more layers, but other than that., it looks nice. nice artstyle.
>>
>>55078919

Can you fit the reiver arms to a regular primaris? Really like the look of those snub nosed bolters.
>>
>>55085875
interesting colour combo, how do they look from a distance?
>>
Does anyone know if the space wolves long fang sprues are different much to the regular devastator ones? How wolfy are they? Would it be a lot of work to switch stuff so they're useable as another chapter?
>>
>>55082852
Send them, along with all your electronics, ahead via ship to a PO box. I sometimes have to travel for work and since the shit I deal with is mostly sensitive or proprietary, I usually have someone ship one of my laptops ahead of time so it's there when i arrive.
Should be no trouble if you just have to do it once with all your paints, bomb making equipment and 12 TB of horse porn.
>>
>>55086068
From a distance all the little messed up highlights and stuff are barely noticeable, which is why I'm not too fussy about fixing them up.

I'm really pleased with the colour scheme, I think it's come out pretty nicely.
>>
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Finished The big boy last night,

Any glaring issues apart from the mould line on the shoulder? pls don't bully I was being lazy
>>
>>55086121
Yea the scheme is a little jarring at first but grows on you.

Are you going pure battlesuits?
>>
>>55086195
The gold is nice, everything else needs a bit of work. the parchment looks really splotchy and you should go over it again, the straps on the monsters arms look a bit flat ad a wash would help a lot, his helmet plume is a bit too similar in colour to the monster at the moment and I'd make it a bit brighter.
>>
Let's talk bloodletters. Are they supposed to have gaps fucking everywhere, or am i retarded? Mainly talking about the heads and the torso/legs divide.
>>
>>55086269
sheeetttt that's in depth, thanks anon will get to work.
>>
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>>55086206
Nah, I'm probably going to go mostly infantry, at least until Crisis Suits get rebalanced in the codex. At the moment they're just not super viable, as much as I like them.

Here's some Fire Warriors I painted a little while ago, first unit I ever did so they're very rough. Will probably strip and redo sometime in the distant future if they bother me.
>>
>>55085918
Do we have a mega for those?
>>
>>55086457
Not sure, I had hoped there would be a mega link in the Scale Model General over in /toy/ but their OP is rather empty compared to what's available here.
>>
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>>55078288
bases for arachnarok and grots on spiders ready to be sprayed
>>
>>55082438

I'd love to see that at some point anon, Waterworld is a GOAT movie
>>
Guys, is any online store selling the flower bits? My gf wants to paint her dryads as cherry trees and we are not proficient enough at greenstuff sculpting to make them by ourselves
>>
>>55078288
>>55086665
Did you make these bases out of peanut butter and chocolate?
Alright lets be serious for a second - this model is so huge, I have never seen it IRL. With two of these monsters (I bet you want to run a 1000pts army so you will buy a second allies box) you will be a discriminative player for sure
>>
>>55087113
Check sites that sell model rail road or plamo stuff. Pic related (although it might be a bit too small).
>>
>>55087165
>you will be a discriminative player for sure
wut?
>>
>>55087113
>>55087186
On second thought, 1/35 cherry blossoms would likely work better with 28mm then HO or N scale. Kamizukuri makes some.

>>55087322
I think he means people won't want to play you.
>>
>>55072825
You actually panted the lower one too well.
It has a very sharp and nicely defined red and lenses usually benefit from a bit more diffuse colours
>>
>>55087322
>go to lgs
>oh look, it's the guy with two huge-ass spiders
There was a player in my LGS that was a friend with everyone because he was the only player using such a huge model as Archaon. He wasn't a waacfag or something like this - he just loved this sculpt so he was using it even as a terrain when playing with his second ironjawz army. Everyone was saying hello to him and smile even if they don't know him but every fuckin player in my town knew that there is a "big boy" playing AoS in the X LGS
>>
>>55087322
Also I'm a retarded phoneposter so my phone decided to use a fuckin unrelated word. I just wanted to say you will be a well-known player in your area
>>
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One of my 'ardboyz.
>>
for painting silver washed with purple. should i spray the models white, grey or black?
>>
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Anyone got an idea how to turn the old aobr nobs (pic related) into weirdboys?
>>
>>55084907
Is that a metallic black?
>>
>>55087499
The red could use more defined highlights
Especially around the metal scratches
>>
>>55087165
I wish man, but it's only vallejo paste.

When it comes to list, yup that's my idea to get two of them, boss on spider and small horde of spider gits, assisted by either artillery or just mob of regular grots to use at meatshield and objective grabbers.
I don't think anyone in LGS will cry over my list. First of all, I'm always playing chill lists (if I ever play anything because, I'm mostly a painter), and second thing is that i work in my LGS so I can set up my league/tourney oponents to be people who are ok with playing agaist stuff I have.
>>
>>55087609
like full plate washed with purple? grab can of leadbelcher and save yourself more time.

>>55087646
box of spirits, to make them look haunted, use plastic rods to make choppas into staves, GS could give them extra capes/hoods. Any orky bitz are also welcome to make them as wierd as possible.
>>
>>55087646

Depends how much work you want to do really.

Give them staffs and paint them in bright colours if you didn't want to do too much.

If you wanted to do a bit more then mix and match common wizard/psychic/shaman/priest stuff.

Robes, pointed hats, shaman masks or head dresses, swollen heads...

...green lightning/fire...
>>
>>55087609

For metals, always black. Grab a can of Rustoleum or Krylon primer.

I don't trust GW's "undercoat" sprays like this anon >>55087731 recommended.
>>
>>55083666
how did you paint that armor, it looks amazing!
>>
>>55074511
>>55075152
More importantly...
>spends a year worth of pay on one model
>doesn't even bother to remove all the mould lines
>>
>>55077283
How do people make shit like this? All the little bitz that add to such detail, so many parts I just don't recognise to give it such a unique look...
>>
>>55081520
Did you start with rakarth flesh?
>>
>>55088089
1 part green stuff
2 parts modeling clay
2 parts detailed prep
1 part meticulous paint
over 9000 hours fiddling

that's just a guess. that shits beyond me personally.
>>
>>55075174
>>55075177
The heads are almost identical in terms of size to the standard primaris helmet, aside a bit of width. I like 'em, but I can see how they'd rub some people the wrong way. Once it's all painted, it should look a lot better.

Side note, liquid greenstuff is a god-send.
>>
Anyone have experience with the Hobbyzone paint station?

I'm trying to organize my area and their kits look exactly like what I'm looking for.
>>
>>55089127
I just bought a paint rack 2bh, the paint station doesnt look like it holds all that much
>>
>>55074458
Paint them in with white then glaze over it with very thin paint. Citadel glazes are ofcourse brilliant for this.
>>
>>55087689
It's leadbelcher washed with nuln oil then nuln oil gloss
>>
>>55082852
I take paint with me always. Put them in a plastic ice cream tub, seal all your paints extra tight. Tape the box shut. One usually explodes. It is fine, and perfectly legal.
>>
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Finished up my kill team of Scouts for now. Will probably go back and highlight them some more and fix up some places that didn't come out too great.
>>
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>>55089526
>>
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>>55089545
>>
File: Dutch.jpg (69KB, 860x645px) Image search: [Google]
Dutch.jpg
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>>55089553
Gotta fix "Dutch"s face, kinda messed it up a bit.
>>
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>>55089567
>>
File: BeefHammer.jpg (69KB, 860x645px) Image search: [Google]
BeefHammer.jpg
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>>55089579
>>
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Dave.jpg
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>>55089611
>>
>>55071751
Hi anons. I am new to painting and modelling and wondering if you have any advice, or can tell me what equipment I should get? I of course have paints and brushes and a knife, but I have also heard a daylight lamp can be useful, and maybe other things?
>>
>>55089694
A file, a pin vise, and some very small drill bits. Also some poster putty helps with sub assemblies.
>>
File: Red Hood 1.jpg (193KB, 1078x800px) Image search: [Google]
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Red Hood finally finished, but I might make his mask a bit brighter.

The pic's kind of pixelated for some reason, I might've fucked something up while cropping it.
>>
File: Red Hood 2.jpg (204KB, 1078x800px) Image search: [Google]
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>>55089757
and a side shot
>>
>>55089771
>>55089757
Fine work as always Batanon
>>
>>55082965
Yep, its a blighted ogrun warspear.
>>
>>55089783
thanks

>>55089757
>>55089771
any idea what might be causing the strange pixelation around the models' edges? I'm using postimages.org for resizing.
Anyone know any good sites for cropping images?
>>
Anyone know any good introductory/beginner painting/modelling tutorials? Preferably video but written is good too.
>>
>>55089830
Check out WarhammerTV and BuyPainted Youtube channels. You might want to also check out Lester Bursley's Awesomepaintjob channel if you're interested in airbrushing.
>>
>>55089821
use resizeimage.net, it allows you to manually resize and compress images
>>
File: IMG_20170827_145136928-1843x1382.jpg (508KB, 1843x1382px) Image search: [Google]
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I'm trying to do Rambo strips on my kommandos skin.
Does it look okay? Or should I remove it (control on left, 2 test on right)
>>
>>55090113
I like it but give another color to the strips as well
>>
>>55090113
It looks kinda weird
I would maybe do the commando strips a different color then that dark green, it kinda blends into their skin too much
>>
>>55090202
>>55090203
How does that green plus black sound?
>>
>>55090278
>>55090202
>>55090203
I feel like 2 coloured strips is gonna be too crowded
>>
>>55077388
ditto
rain is finally slowing down where i live, but at least they cancelled the first 2 days of class at the university
>>
>>55077388
>>55090365
Don't let your minis drown Texas-bros
>>
>>55077496
Go back over and layer some paint on the open areas after you wash but before you drybrush.

Also, stop reading Aftonbladet. It is a The Sun tier newspaper with only marginally better fact checking than the shitshows that are Expressen and Fria Tider.
>>
>>55090278

Just do black strips
>>
File: Elder One 3.png (1MB, 1185x929px) Image search: [Google]
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>>55088089
>How do people make shit like this? All the little bitz that add to such detail, so many parts I just don't recognise to give it such a unique look...

The Marine they used as a base was a re-sculpt using a GK Terminator as the base. They cast off a bunch of "truescale" guys using those parts and then went to town on them. The Alpha Legionnaire is basically just that sculpt with Dryad branches as "antlers", some Marine pouches, and Tau grenades. The hands, head, and pack are all stock.

The Skitarii is literally just a Ruststalker head glued onto a Chaos Cultist body with a recast Servitor foot. Only thing that distinguishes it is the basing and paint job.

This is another model from the same guys that uses the same arm and body parts, but with more sculpting and an Enginseer backpack.
>>
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I can paint xenos armies all day long and they look great, but for some reason I struggle painting marines. Thought I could handle a simple word bearers paint scheme. How am I fucking this up?
>>
>>55089821
Make sure you're resizing to a multiple of 1/4 (75%, 50%, etc), it cuts WAY down on artifacts because of the way the images get compressed.
>>
File: ants.jpg (4KB, 191x118px) Image search: [Google]
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>>55090939
>How am I fucking this up?
badly?

I mean it's a little flat but what exactly do you dislike? Also
>>
>>55081520
I envy anyone who can paint half way decent eyes
>>
So i've been soaking some models in simple green to strip them, and I'm having some difficulty. The top layers are coming off sort of, but the primer refuses to budge. What do?
>>
>>55091073
Maybe the flatness is something I don't like, I am not sure, i just feel like its poor for some reason.
>>
>>55090929
compare that Techmarine to these two Alpha-bros. These are basically just straight-up Primaris with head-swaps and a little extra decorative kit, but they work with the monstrosities upstream because of the paint job.
>>
>>55091112
You are painting a shitty old sculpt
>>
>>55091092
redonk long for what it is but this might be your problem

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfRvXImRAi4
>>
>>55089757
That robin has quite the 8 pack
>>
>>55091155
I picked up a squad of 3 chaos snap fit for 5 bucks to practice on, the plain model may be why I hate it/it looks so bland, since there isn't a lot of detail to paint in the first place.

I appreciate you pointing that out.
>>
What colors would I use for (dirty) blonde hair?

I was thinking averland with a Earthshade wash, not sure what to highlight with. Yriel?

This is for a callidus, so there's a fair bit of it to paint.
>>
>>55072632
Yeah, would work nicely!

>>55073228
i thought it was a naruto mini.. lol GHEEEEEEEY

>>55075890
excellent work mate!

>>55075979
First mini.. i bet your wife tells you she is a virgin as well every time you fuck her

>>55077267
Bawler minis man. Be sure to pimp that eagle with some shiny highlights

>>55077496
They are very dark man.. be sure to have some nice contrasting bases

>>55079230
Great looking mini! I think some blood effects on the klaw would be nice.

>>55085780
10/10 would defend Germany with. Also there should be city fight basing tutorials around. You can also check historical tutorials like Bolt Action and Flames of war. I have seen rubble bases / scenery bits before. Shouldnt be hard to make yourself.

>>55090939
Dark colors are bad for depth. Brighten the eyes and paint 1 shoulder pad with white legion markings. Get creative.. its fine to have 50-75% of your marines be standard as you currently did but you need some interesting bits for the eye to focus on. give him a dick
>>
>>55091112
>>55090939
You aren't fucking up, just noobing with marines.
The model has large, flat spaces and the color scheme is monotonous. Right now it kind of lacks anything to make it pop or give it a focal point, and the shoulder-pads are empty. Nothing says "Word Bearer". Hell, he could be a pre-Heresy Thousand Son right now. Flames over the eyes, Legion symbol, scribbled-on runes or something would all help. He's okay as a "grunt" line Marine but he's lacking the heraldric oomph they beg for.
>>
Would a red wash over black look decent?
>>
Already can see I'm going to dislike how this Apothecary turns out. Where can I get good off-whites?
>>
>>55091275
On space marines specifically
>>
>>55091302
I found my old 2nd ed. LR and sripped it as best I could

It's pretty beat and in need of new lascannons. Anyone know a good alternative? Plastic LR sponsons wont work and my Javelin Land Speeder sponsons are a single lascannon
>>
>>55091275
It wouldn't really do anything.
It's black. It's already the darkest you can go
>>
>>55091431
Wouldn't it at least give it a red tint, and make the recesses redder?
>>
>>55091162

But I only used GW products, no jank cheap shit. I did use the gw rattle can I admit, but surely that can't be that big of a problem can it?
>>
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>>55091244
Thanks for the input, gives me something more to work with for round two.
>>
>>55091449
If it was a glaze, sure.
As a shade it will probably be barely noticable
>>
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So, finally got around to finishing of the modeling on my Angry Marine standard bearer.

Any suggestions for final touches before I prime it?

Also, any hints for painting yellow armour are appreciated.
>>
>>55091738
can we get a different angle pic?
I honestly can't tell what the fuck is going on there
>>
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>>55091790
Sure. Sorry if this one is a bit blurred.
>>
File: 01.jpg (3MB, 2078x2517px) Image search: [Google]
01.jpg
3MB, 2078x2517px
so I just finished this mini and I'm quite pleased with how it turned out ...still want to improve though looking for some feedback and criticism
>>
File: 2.jpg (2MB, 1801x2132px) Image search: [Google]
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>>55091995
>>
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3.jpg
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>>55092023
>>
>>55091995
>>55092023
>>55092055
A little THICC, but above tabletop quality
>>
>>55091995
>>55092023
>>55092055
Your edge highlights look really good in some places a little wobbly in others though. Biggest criticism is thick paint, especially the shoulder in the third picture. The crotch scroll could use a little tidying as well as some words, free hand or a transfer on it.
>>
>>55091995
I like the paintwork, but what's with all the blank parchments?
>>
File: 1503867758217.jpg (4MB, 2078x2517px) Image search: [Google]
1503867758217.jpg
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>>55091995

The paint is a bit rough on some surfaces, most noticeably on the shoulder pad rim. Thin your paint a bit more and maybe use a larger brush. The highlights and shadows have a noticeable break, you could try using a intermediate colour to blend in a transition.
>>
>>55091883
ok, THAT is pretty funny, I love the idea.

as for the armour, check out Duncans tutorial on painting imperial fists, it should work well with the angry marines scheme.
>>
>>55091738
>>55091883
That is dumb as shit
I love it
>>
>>55092147
Will do, thanks. Never did like painting bright armour.
>>
Sorry to ask but here goes

Just starting painting again after about a 8 year gap. All my paints are dried up, only a handful of brushes remain and I wasn't the best painter to begin with.

My question is on the paints. Where to go for reasonably priced paints?
I used to have Citadel but I know these are pricer.

Additionally,I already have a colour scheme set for my models. How does a light grey with royal purple highlights sound?

Final one I promise. Black or white base spray to start when the main colour is light grey?

I know these must be annoying noob questions but thanks in advance if anyone answers.
>>
File: barbarian.jpg (177KB, 1728x972px) Image search: [Google]
barbarian.jpg
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Feedback on my painted silver tower barbarian?
I made the skin too dark, one day I have to lighten the lad up.
>>
>>55092317
Axe head looks a bit messy, but otherwise I love it.
>>
>>55092338
True on the axe head. I was trying to give it light effects like I did on the sword.
>>
>>55092236
For the paints look into vallejo paints, they're cheaper, same quality and the dropper bottle saves you some paint.

I can't quite imagine your paint scheme in my head, so i can't give advice there.

If the main colour is grey, a white spray would be better.

And stop worrying about being annoying.
>>
>>55091153

Any idea what the one with the servitor head was built out of?
>>
File: 20170827_174441.jpg (2MB, 1152x3456px) Image search: [Google]
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Some progress on my kommandos. Thoughts?
What colour for edge highlights on mournfang brown?
>>
>>55092375
Many thanks
>>
>>55092627
They're very...
Boring. That brown is playing it very safe.
>>
File: 99810103013_OrkKommandosNEW03.jpg (52KB, 600x620px) Image search: [Google]
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>>55092902
I cant imagine vibrant bright kommandos though. Even the official models are a mixture of dark non-offfensive tones.
I guess stealth is boring?
>>
File: boss and prospector.jpg (300KB, 785x400px) Image search: [Google]
boss and prospector.jpg
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I got this gorkamorka prospector bloke real cheap in a grab bag, what should I run him as?
>>55092627
Depends how harsh you like your highlights, you probably cant go far wrong with skrag or deathclaw brown.
Generally I lightly "highlight" larger open areas and then use a colour with harsher contrast on actual raised edges
>>
>>55092931
Why don't try a camo?
>>
>>55092931
The issue is more that their masks and backpacks are just a blob of brown
Look at the official models you just posted. The guy one the right has three colors on his mask (brown, black and silver) and the guy in front has three colors on his (black, bronze, and silver).
Your masks have... brown, brown, and more brown
>>
>>55092931
Not that anon, but there's enough variety in the sculpt to compensate, also, there's dark tones but there's still variety in the colors, yours just look brown and green, and there's not much else there.
>>
>>55092993
>>55093042
So what am I supposed to do then? I cant redo the sculpting as the greenstuff and everything will fall apart
>>55092985
What type of camo would you suggest?
>>
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>>55093074
Maybe paint some of the masks in your clan's colors, give em a skull mask, anything to break up the boring brown. You could also paint some of the masks a different brown color.
Variety is the spice of Ork-ish life.
>>
>>55093209
>ork mall-ninjas
Mite b kool
>>
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>>55092623
As far as I can tell, it's a 5e Techmarine lower body, Harlequin arms, and a stubber from something AdMech-related. The cloak and ruff are probably sculpted.
>>
File: img_0447.jpg (441KB, 1400x1053px) Image search: [Google]
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>>55093341
This backshot shows those super-distinctive Harlie "tabs" on the wrists
>>
>>55093209
That might be a bit difficult but seems like a cool idea, how about I do red hoods instead of brown? Get that old school World of Warcraft feel going
>>
File: orksymbol.jpg (26KB, 577x800px) Image search: [Google]
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>>55093209
>>55093333
Hell, even just the bottom half of the Ork symbol would be good. Just break it up
>>
>>55093341
>>55093378
Base body looks to be this guy.
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-SE/Astra-Militarum-Tech-Priest-Enginseer
>>
File: IMG_20170827_183348270-1152x864.jpg (208KB, 1152x864px) Image search: [Google]
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>>55093410
>>55093209
>>55093042
>>55092993
Just a basecoat but how's this?
>>
>>55093513
Helps break it up a bit, maybe you could also make the splinter camo on the arms red as well. That could help.
>>
>>55093513
Much better
Now it's not just a blob of brown and green
>>
>>55093587
>>55093587
>>55093587

this thread is nearing the end so I made a new one
>>
>>55093434
Oh, cool, I hadn't seen the new plastic TPES. Yeah, that's definitely the base model.
...Now I think I need to buy one. Damnit.
>>
>>55092317
the sword striations are too regular, comes off as a check pattern and in no way what an actual used weapon would suffer.

the skin isn't too dark but it is too wood-like. before I even read your post I was like "that chest looks like varnished wood". I think bringing more pink/peach/red hue into it would help (sorry can't speek paint)

All the details are nice, the metal shoulder coppering, all the skulls, the grip wrap, his face- all look great.
>>
>>55091153
Still can't get over how much better they look with classic helmets instead of shitty Mk 10 ones
>>
>>55092623
head is actually from the skitarii box
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