/WIP/ - Work in Progress General

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>>>54897880

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Hew WIP, quick question. So for the priest that will go with my Arco Flaggelents I want to do something like pic related. I know having two chain swords provides no mechanical advantage, but I kinda like the rip n tear feel of it. Fluff wise he'd be a penitant priest whose leading the flaggelents seeking redemption. You think that's a decent idea and look for the priest, or does it seem a little too similar to the Arco Flaggelents?

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Base layers and washes for my Murderfiend. I'm making good progress and i really like the white scheme for my World Eaters.

>>54916323
>>54916460
I think it's fine and fits well. I mean, he has probably spent a lot of time with those flaggelents, so of course he picked up some of their habids, etc.

>>54916550

I'm no expert, but damn that looks nice. Really wish I could paint like that.

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>>54902190
I was making my progress chart for last thread, so I'll post here.
Sorry for large file.

General question - is there a way to handle undercoated models such that the paint doesn't rub off? I keep finding that the paint comes off the hard edges really easily. Maybe it's the paint?

>>54916595
use poster putty (or any kind od sticky thing that comes off easly) and stick base with primed model to piece of kork or old paint pot

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Various stages of rubric marines. How am I doing?
Needs a lot of cleanup, but anyone got pointers for me? Other than the shit white. I made the mistake long ago and now it's more for uniformity

>>54916595
Is it a metal model? If so, that's just how it goes. Only way to prevent it is to use an industrial metal etching primer or varnish constantly between layers.

Is it resin? Wash your figures before priming.

Is it plastic? Learn to prime.

>>54916758
just keep going and handle fact that you own panda marines.

What did you do to them? White primer, wash all over and black trims?

>>54916833
I made my peace with Beetlegeuse long ago.
They're primed white, based ulthian, washed, then drybrushed ulthuan -> white scar lightly. After the trim is done I'll be going back and darkening odd white spots (like around the left shin of the right guy) and brightening whites. Hoping for it to keep a 10k year feel but not look as haphazard. Middle guy has a small test with gorillaman blue, but I'll be fixing that. didn't like it.

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I will preface this post with apologising for it being LONG AS FUCK. Hey /wip/ I'm going to be ordering my first set of paints from GW soon for painting my dudes as Lamenters and wanted to know if I was overlooking any paints from my cart.
>Mechanicus Grey Spray
>Averland Sunset
>Abbadon Black
>Leadbelcher
>Bugmans Glow
>Mephiston Red
>Ceramite White
>Yriel Yellow
>White Scar
>Runefang Steel
>Liberator Gold
>Evil Sunz Scarlet
>Cadian Fleshtone
>Nuln, Agrax, and Riekland shades

>>54916758
They look malicious.

>>54916942
>Mechanicus Grey Spray
nah m8, don't go that way, make yourself a favour and take Averland spray.
Consider getting orange or yellow wash.
I'd also remove Ceramite White and White Scar, and go with Celestra and Ulthuan Grey. White paint tends to get gloopy after some time and it's pain in ass to use. Those grey colours plays as white perfectly fine, and got no problems with pimentation.

>>54916942
>>Runefang Steel

Stormhost Silver is better.

>>54916942
>>54916991
I asked about the Averland spray in a wip thread a while ago and was recommended the Grey Spray when an anon said the Averland spray can come out hobby, there's a wash called Lamenter sYellow I just don't know anything about it, and I've heard praises of Ulthuan

>>54917046
Globby not hobby, fuck

>>54916942
>>54917037
I'll make the change, thanks anon

>>54917046
Lamenter's Yellow is a glaze. It's not a wash, and works like a filter instead of shader. As you apply it on surface, it gets yellow tint. So for example applied on desaturated yellow (like averland sunset) it makes it more saturated, thus more jucy and birght. It can be used on white to make very birght yellow, or on too bright highlights to tone them down.

>>54917068
Thank you for the knowledge anon

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>>54910929

Payment in beer is always acceptable.

Also, would anyone recommend this game? I tried watching a vid with Whil Weaton on youtube but it's too hard, he's a flog.

>>54916942

Noooooooooo, easiest way to get a smooth yellow is to paint from zandri dust up to screaming skull and then applying layers of lamenters yellow glaze until you are happy with the result

>>54917167
It's a neat game, but finite amount of play throughs. It's more like a ttrpg one-shot than a regular board game. Don't remember the exacts, but like 3-5 missions to fulfill your quest with a regular and advanced mode.

>>54917331
The Zandri dust spray is out of stock online rn anon but I'll remember this and try it when I can

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>>54917379

Shame, heres a shitty pic for reference btw

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A snap-fit Plague Marine from a warband called The Purge.

Just bases and shades so far but I'd be keen for any feedback. Really, really stuck on what to do for the base and rim.

>>54917545
I like the inverse Dr Doom kinda look you've got going on, but IMO the torso/helmet feel a little bland. Might be a good idea to throw in a spot colour like purple or something for the lenses, and maybe a different coloured trim on some bits of the backpack and the shoulderpads?

t. someone who read an article on colour theory in White Dwarf earlier in the month and doesn't actually know what he's talking about

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>>54917564
This is the scheme from the CSM Codex and I'm just trying to apply it to the Plague Marines.

There is spots of Warplock Bronze on there, perhaps I could apply more.

>>54917600
Yeah, I think the bronze will help. Definitely layer up the trim to a lighter green. Adding red lenses will help.

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weeabork update:

tried to imitate http://wappellious.blogspot.cz/p/blood-bowl-teams.html with these boyz, also made some bases


could have made a lot more progress but I've been lazy

>>54917763
That's some impressive green stuff

Pro Tip: Don't put acetone in an ultra-sonic cleaner with a plastic lid.

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After painting three of them to completion, I just batch painted them, so there are a lot of mistakes I still need to find and touch up. And the boss to paint too.

>>54918121
Oh also they're not based yet.

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Working on some Morlocks today

>>54918221
Highlights look a little thick, particularly the claws and you might need more bright green in the transition to complete the effect (unless the camera butchers it). Otherwise they look good, I like the choice of making the power claws green. Unusual choice on Imperial power weapons.

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To that guy that asked about the BeesPutty (>>54911964):

It's pretty good, as a bakeable clay it has some different properties to epoxy putty.

Pros:
>Infinite work time, pretty much, so you can mess with things as much as you like.
>Can be rebaked, so you can "freeze" your work by baking it in order to avoid smearing surfaces while you work on other parts of the model. Doesn't seem to lose much detail overall on successive rebakes.
>Easy to work. Softens up for application and basic forming, then solidifies somewhat after you've put it aside for a few minutes.
>Will take additional layers, with a little finessing.
>Sandable.
>Carvable.
>Capable of high detail - I mostly use the Firm grade; supposedly it holds detail better than the basic grade, and the Summer Firm/Xtra Firm holds even sharper detail again.
>Completely skin-safe - one of the reasons the creator invented it because he was allergic to epoxy putties.

Neutral:
>In my experience, clay additions to already-baked models don't attach as firmly as adding "wet" clay onto "wet" clay. On the one hand this can limit the durability of things that stick out (but maybe use armatures), on the other, it makes it easy to "ctrl-z" a new baked addition and take the model back to an earlier stage with some careful poking and levering.
>Sticky when soft. On the one hand, this is great for applying it to armatures (it doesn't need a greenstuff underlayer). On the other, it can grab tools a little, so maybe use a lubricant. Would probably bake onto metal miniature parts just fine, but I haven't tried it.

Cons:
>I would really advise against using plasticard or other plastics with it if you're not done baking/rebaking. I haven't tried it, but I strongly suspect they'd melt.
>Brittle. Don't count on making anything small that has to flex much. Large objects have some flex to them, but I wouldn't advise pushing them too far.
>Can be hard to find and you may need to ship it in from as far away as its native Germany.

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No, but seriously. How do I paint the topknot?
I thought some greenish but I'm not sure.

>>54916575
Your productivity is impressive, and your painting is really good too!

>>54918425
I'd go for black:

Black undercoat
Eshin grey highlights
Fine mechanicus standard grey highlights

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Pretty satisfied with the result, though I'll still keep an eye out to find bits for the chain necklace I wanted to give her (with an inquisition logo or something).

>>54916758
I'm kinda on the fence about the black trim. Maybe a dark silver/boltgun color with several black washes, instead? or a black that is highlighted up with steely blues instead of greys? I get that at the moment its just an ink wash, just things to try. otherwise I like the white pretty well

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Why do I keep putting my models on bases before painting them?
Why am I stupid?
Why are stealth suits such total ass to paint?

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>>54918580

>>54917545
You're good for your bases and shades, it's looking good so far.

It's an uncommon color scheme; For the base you need contrast, so if you plan on doing a lot of lighter grey highlights, go for a dark brown, like Stirland Battlemire with a light Zandri Dust drybrush. If you want to keep that dark color tone, maybe go for a bit of a lighter base, Armageddon Dust with a light Ushabti Bone drybrush. You can probably get away with having some little dry grass tufts, not too much tho.

As for the rim, I'm of the opinion that rims should always be black, but that's up to you. Deathworld Forest or Death Guard green could be cute on a DG force.

>>54918595
I almost always put my models on bases before painting. Painted basing materials generally look more "convincing" or at least more consistent then unpainted naturals

>>54918574
Sounds fun, I'll try it and post results when I get the paints

>>54918628
> a lot of lighter grey highlights
meant to say
> a lot of lighter GREEN highlights

>>54918632
Oh, definitely. But god I hate trying to reach the underside of stealth suits and the inside of their legs when they're on bases.

Also I managed to crack perfect paint consistency for smooth coats. For about five seconds.
[quiet reeeeing]

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>>54918628
Thanks for the advice. This is him pretty much finished now aside from the base and a few lasting touch ups.

I was thinking Armageddon Dust, wash Agrax, drybrush Underhive Ash. Probably do standard Steel Legion Drab as the base rim, or Baneblade Brown.

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Finally got around to putting heads on my CSM conversions. Also I replaced the Aspiring Champion's maul with an axe because the arm holding the maul was longer than his left arm.

>>54919356
Why no shoulder pads?

>>54919418
I don't have the shoulder pads I need yet, I still have to order them off of eBay

>>54919135
>I was thinking Armageddon Dust, wash Agrax, drybrush Underhive Ash. Probably do standard Steel Legion Drab as the base rim, or Baneblade Brown.

Sounds great, don't forget to post the results here when you're done !

Show me your Imperial Fists wip.

>spraying new model
>spraying thingie snaps off
>thick cloths of paint fly everywhere
>my model is covered in thick cloths of paint

Can this shit be salvaged?

>Wake up
>Check my moulds
>perfect recast of the storm shield I need

Damn that is a good feeling WIP, easily makes up for the fact I have to redo my pauldrons mould.

>>54919655
Dettol protects

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Working on some custom electropriests by admeching up Kairic Acolytes with Kataphron and Skitarii parts. Heads are slightly larger but I can fix that with filing and a little bit of greenstuff, but the servo-arms I was planning to use as weapons are kinda hueg in comparison so they'll take some bodging.

Shall I keep the flame decals on the armour and robes? I'm making sure I even up the outside trim so it looks less Tzeenchy plus getting rid of some of the little seals and pouches, but I might keep the flame decals since they are Forge Guard after all.

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>>54919685
Dettol is gay

>>54919792
Dettol will be there for you.

>>54919685
Dettol is also enough for extremely thick cloths?

>>54918647
That's why you don't build everything in one go and immediately base it. Duncan can make it work, but he also has the magic of editing at his disposal.
It's also the reason I loathe snapfit models.

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So a few threads ago, an anon mentioned how the Minotaur's don't have much going for theme aesthetics, aside from their chapter master. So I googled around, and found some nifty conversion bits courtesy of Anvil Industries and Scibor.
Was thinking of using pic related on some terminators, but which mark of terminator armor would be best, you think? Also if anyone has better suggestions for spears, I'm all ears, as "Sci-Fi spears" didn't net me much on google.

>>54916758
I like the scheme. I've got a bunch of Exalted Sorcerers I've been looking for differing schemes for an I think I'll use this for one of them.

>>54919841
The shields look nice, but IIRC only Hammernators can take shields, and I don't think rules for Breachers exist in 40k.
Custodes spears might fit for terminators, but are probably too big for regular marines. And you'd need to proxy them as hammers.

>>54919911
I figure I'd proxy them as TH/SS terminators, assuming my opponent isn't too autistic.
And as I recall, yeah, the Custodes spears are fucknormous.
I was looking through older WH Fantasy models for some spear to use, as Moloc's spear looks a bit Elf-like in the blade and inlay, but I'm still not finding much I like.

>>54919841

Chapterhouse had some great greek helmets, but i'm pretty sure they are dead at the moment.

>>54919903
Much apprecuated. It's straightforward: Ulthuan gray with nuln oil wash built back up to ulthuan then white scar
The trim is chaos black with eshin grey and a bit of mechanicus standard gray in places.
Then the brass bits are vallejo brass with agrax earthshade highlighted gold.
The staff handle is valejo aged bone with agrax.
The blue is Cantor blue washed with gulliman blue. Since it's my first use of it, I haven't actually decided on a highlight for the blue. if you have suggestions, that'd be great.

>>54919948
Well, I'll still take a look, thanks. Scibor has both SF Spartan and SF Roman helmets, both of which look pretty good, but having never worked with a terminator kit before (or at least, not since the 90's), I'm not sure how easy it is to replace them.

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Got my first 8th edition game scheduled with a buddy soon, so I figured I should rustle up some extra points for my inquisition.

Early days. I already know that raised detail imperial fist pad will be the death of me.

>>54919835
Yeah.

>>54919945
Well, after a quick ebay search, the glade guard spears might fit. Although, I've only seen the metal ones, no idea about the plastic ones.

>>54920282
Hrm. I was looking at those as well.
A thought - would basing the Minotaur's terminators on Grey Knight termies be feasible? Looking at the sprue, it seems flexible enough, and I could cut down a lot of the ornamentation on both the suits and the halberds - it would make converting a hell of a lot easier than trying to mix and match arms from different games, and I think with the Minotaur's scheme, it should work out, especially if I mix in some spartan helmets. Maybe. I dunno, but I'm leaning that way.

>>54918099
RIP Anon's equipment.

Some plastics are okay, though - I don't remember which off the top of my head, but stuff like yogurt containers and "slippery" plastics (polypropylene?) are resistant/immune to acetone.

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Last Death Guard of the box done.

now weeks of wait til Mortarion..

>>54920143
Everyone is wearing a helmet. I approve.

>>54920364
I have never had anything to do with Grey Knights, but I suppose as long as it's the same Terminator pattern and not an ancient kit, they should fit.

>>54920404
safety first, after all

>>54919964
Maybe Altdorf Guard Blue would be good for it? I'll start on it tonight and report back, as I think I have Kantor Blue as well.

>>54919903
>>54920584
I'm an idiot. I was using Caledor sky, not Kantor blue.
I have calgar blue, which I might 50/50 with caledor for the highlight.

>>54920143
you're supposed to only put a bit of wash onto the silver shoulders

>>54920692
it's not a wash, boss

>>54920747
wash, shade, they're the same thing.

>>54920871
>but what about glaze?

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>>54920871
inks function quite differently

and I'm fond of the blued chrome look

>>54919356
>LEATHER SHOES
>SPACE MARINES

>HEY GUISE I MADE A CONVERSION

So, bronze armor with black and red complimentary colors. What color should the eyes of the helmet be? I'm hesitant to use more red when it features so prominently.

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>>54921134
>mfw I like the leather boots, but everyone spergs out about them

>>54921191

I'm pretty sure its just one autist not multiple anons, and he's probably just but blasted that your chaos marines will look better than his chaos marinelets. I think it's great.

>>54921249
Thanks. To be honest I don't give a shit about anyone being autistic about the boots because, like I said, I really like them and why should I care about some random opinion on the internet. I just find it weird that it's being made such a big deal of when they're Chaos marines.

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WiP wave serpent. Anyone have any tips? I feel like the highlights were a good idea but poorly executed.

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>>54921344
The highlights are fine, but I think it needed some preshading (probably impossible to do without an airbrush; at least I've never heard of anyone doing it).

>>54921413
Modulation is extremely difficult to do without an airbrush, you *can* do it with a rattlecan but the inability to change the paint flow makes it very hard work to get a nice gradient.
Panel lighting is impossible without an airbrush afaik.
>>54921344
The paint looks pretty thick around those pointy bits on each side, you didn't paint straight from the bottle did you?

Anyone know what knight houses fought with the Fists during the Heresy? I want to incorporate the color scheme onto Perterarbo's base

>>54920395

really nice anon

>>54921510
I sprayed the colour primer on too thick. Army painter primer seems to come out thicker than citadel and I'm not used to it yet.

>>54917763
fun

>>54920395
beautiful

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Basecoats for the based god.

First match for the scorpion will be saturday, should be fun!

>>54920395
Love that 30k paint scheme. Fill in that gap in the bell though.

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>>54921191
>Space Marines can wear leather gloves but leather boots are out of the question
Dont worry anon, some people are just autistic

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posting it here too cause you guys are all pretty cool

http://www.strawpoll.me/13726914/r

(if you don't care about lore, you can just vote your favorite color scheme)

>>54921888
>'Exocists'

>>54921888
Lamenters, so they have more than a handful of dudes barely worth calling a chapter
>t. Minotaurfag

Salamanders are pretty nice though.

>>54921905
well fuck
I was kinda rushing when I made it so I shoulda proof read better
thank you for pointing that out though anon, can always learn a lesson or two in patience and being careful.

>>54921935
No problem. Results looking pretty expected so far I think
Are you gathering ideas for a new army?

>>54916575
Wow this is inspiring. I've been around since you started and have seen most of these, but didn't know they were all you.

I also feel bad now as I srarted around the same time as you, and by the progress shown in this chart I should be better than I am.

Good job. Keep painting and posting

>>54922005
I wish I was

I don't have the funds or free time to start up any more projects atm
But I'm always looking for fun what-if ideas for armies

Like gosh darn it, someday i want to have an astral claws army with all the special characters

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>>54921870
>leather boots/gauntlets/pteruges/poleyns/besagews

Autism aside, the Mk I Thunder Armour only had a powered *torso*. The legs were armoured, but not powered, so heavy leather boots (perhaps with some ceramite or armaplas plating riveted to them) probably would've been the order of the day.

>>54921888
>Badab War

That's cool and all - I can dig the modern visuals - but the original version also showed the weirdo camouflage schemes some of the chapters used; and, of course, they were all beekees.

The Lamenters barely rated a mention in the 7th Edition Blood Angels book. I think there was more info in there about the Carmine Blades!

>>54917545
>The purge
Fuck yeah anon. Insane omnicidal nurgle worshippers are the best nurgle worshippers

>>54921191
>>54921870
>Custodes wear leather gloves and leather boots
You're fine anon

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WIP Mortarch, tips are welcome! I still have to do most of Neferata, but the abyssal thing is mostly done. Painting it was an absolute blast, I've only ever done Reaper Bones stuff before so glueing my fingers all over the model was a new experience.

I don't even play Warhammer, I just thought this model was neat. Painting this plastic is so much better than the hydrophobic Bones crap.

>>54921888
Who's the artist of those marines?

>>54921888
Raptors are my favorite loyalist chapter

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Probably one of the most awkward models I've ever worked on. Still fun though.

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>>54922645
Imperial armor volume 9 and 10

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Painted a test model. Shall I go full old school colors for my army?

>>54917545
>The Purge.
>keen for any feedback

I feel bad for telling you this, especially after your struggle to make the metal work, but the color scheme is supposed to be black/green and not metal/green.
The illustration in the current codex is a bit ambiguous, but the old dexes had painted models.

Aside from that it is very nicely painted though.

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>>54923168
>written by Alan Bligh

>>54923168
After doing some research, I believe the artist in question is Paul Rudge. Not 100% sure though.

>>54921191
>>54921249
I pointed out the boots also before but end of day thier your dudes

>>54923337
f

>>54923337
F

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i'm doing some other work on the cult besides the limo. i made this purestrain to raplce my original white genestealer and i made another hybrid

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First two of my combat servitor electro-priests done. 18 more to go and nowhere near enough claws for them, but I'll improvise something.

Trimmed a lot of the more curly armour off, as well as some of the assorted daggers and pouches and stuff, but there's still some there since I would probably cause more damage than I'd fix trying to make all the armour trim perfectly even. This is also my first go at using greenstuff to tidy things up, and I think it worked fairly well since I can paint the roughened flesh as scar tissue from the augmentation surgery. Also had to greenstuff the top of the fist back on after I lopped the sword off one of them, but that's hardly eye-catching detail either way.

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>>54924308
Front view.

>>54919356
This is kinda making me want to do some chaos thunder warriors that fell into a warp hole before they got squatted

>>54924330

The fuck huge claw looks kinda awkward to me personally.

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Nearly done these tankbustas

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Group shot

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Still chipping away at the bones. I'm always amazed at just how terrible the face details are. Plz critique.

>>54925245
Nice and clean. I'm a big fan of this clean high contrast look for minis that are actually used on the table. Also orks are so blocky gat daaaaaamn.

>>54925369
dick suckin lips

>>54925395
He did what he had to to earn respect.

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>>54925369
>I'm always amazed at just how terrible the face details are.

Not quite sure what yer tryin' to say here, anon.

>>54925369
>"Sucky sucky young adventurer, or fighty fighty?"

>>54925245
The one in the middle...is he going to throw that rocket?

>>54922644

Really nice, especially the ghosts.

>>54925463
Mother of God why is his head so fucking large??? He's so lumpy...

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>>54925098
It's not really than the ones on the GW servitors, proportionally, but yeah, they're a bit lopsided. I don't mind it personally, but some of them will be manually toting hammers about and wielding Chordclaws and stuff rather than the Kataphron arms to vary it up a bit since it'd get a little boring with just 20 of those guys.

Maybe I'll do a couple where it was just the end of the Arc Claw grafted to the wrist or the mechanism to the forearm, see how that looks.

How do citadel metallics like lead Belcher compare to the model air metallics from Vallejo? I have VMC and reaper metallics and I'm not really feeling them... The model air silver I have tho goes on super opaque and buttery.

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Almost finished with my starter set chads.

Be gentle anons.

>>54925706
I prefer working with Vallejo's metallics but I own more citadel just for their color

So I would recommend Vallejo for metallics though i'm not too familiar with their air kind

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>>54925465
Of course! What kinda pussy uses a rocket launcher to launch rockets?

>>54925944
You should try really hard to make sure your initial base coat is clean/ "in the lines" as well as fully opaque. You don't have to worry too much about the paint near the boarders not being perfect because usually a wash can cover it. And you can always go back and clean up with your colors i.e. the edge highlighting in a few places is pretty messy, cleaning it with the base color would make it look much better.

>>54925944
Crimson Fists are patrician tier anon. Good choice.

Did you not prime your miniature though? One of the plasma guns looks like grey plastic in the front. You really should prime, it really helps with getting smooth coats of paint down. Some of the highlights are a bit sloppy, though you probably won't see them on the table anyway, but seeing them up close, you might want to work on them. And a recess wash will do wonders to you marines.

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>>54926036
Goofy orks best orks.

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I finished a thing... so after using it a while I will be selling it to a mate. Now I'm waiting on the FW great unclean one to arrive so I can paint another big fucker.

>>54925369
Stop painting lips for a while, and never start painting the upper lip again. Upper lip painted usually looks like botox gone wrong or a child's first attempt at makeup.

Also, mix a little of the redder shade into your skin tone for the bottom lip, and not the other way around.

>>54926158
Knight... check
Church... check

It looks nice, my only real critique is the decals look too clean when you compare it to the worn look of the rest of the model.

>>54926158
Is that you Magos Coatl? Did you ever find a better power fist for your HQ?

Knight looks good as always.

>>54926187
Wouldn't not painting lips be detrimental to getting better at painting lips?

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>>54926245
yeah its me haha! Sold all my 30k stuff so Coatl has gone too a new home now. Nurgle and bigly marines are my bag now. I have a sick paypal nest egg awaiting the Deathguard release in September.

>>54926158
Ma-magos Coatl? A-are...are you still alive? The ancient legends said you had fallen when the Horus Heresy stayed in 7th. Glad to see your models again

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>>54926292
Sup buddy! Coatl has fallen..only the rot remains, all hail the rot!....well work in progress rot

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Finished that standard bearer.

So I'm looking to prime and paint the head, chest, and legs at the same time, while painting the arms/weapons later.

What's the best way to go about this?

>>54926273
More general painting will improve control of paint consistency and how much is on the brush and will prevent more models that are all

>sucky sucky

It's a little like not painting eyes, although that's another can of worms. Sometimes it's better to paint some models with wash pooled in the eyes while you're improving generally to prevent half your units being bog-eyed.

>>54926336

Shit man, how do I learn to paint as you do?

>>54926506

Just looks like heavy drybrush.

>>54926336
Looks really nice, man, and I see a LOT of Nurgle around here. Yours is probably the best ones I've yet got a look at, people tend to go overboard with all the different colours and details and it kinda loo like a mess. Looking forward to seeing them finished.

Personally Archmagos Triedes is making himself some cannon fodder, so I'm working on >>54924308
for the next while. They're kinda time-consuming since I have to do a lot of fucking about with almost every part to get them to fit, but I think they'll make decent Fulgurites and double as Chainblade Adsecularis.

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>>54926506
its easy bro you learn how to cheat same way I did haha! That green is just yellow airbrush transition smashed over the top with a green wash, very little talent needed at all, washes are a crazy shortcut.

>>54926582
Dude from one Magos to another those thralls are bitching as hell, much love.

>>54926336
Such a shame you sold your 30k stuff anon, they were great. Your nurgle stuff is looking great though. Keep posting them as you progress!

>>54923177
I quite like it, Anon. I feel like the spear could use some color though, maybe some green or gold?

>>54926399
attach the bits that you're leaving off to a cocktail stick/spare bit of sprue and spray them at the same time.

>>54926937
what do I use to attach them?

>>54926976
Bluetac. Unless you're doing resin, in which case it doesn't really stick to it.

Is this the worst tool GW has ever made

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0PK8NOlvPg

>>54927066
is it really that bad?

>>54927066
Nope, their spray gun was the worst. It literally exploded to some people

>>54927066
>a saw
>worst tool

Clearly you're a beginner who has never done major limb removal or large resin vehicle gate removal.

>>54927008
What brand are you using. 3M white poster tack and original Bostik BluTack in light blue that turns very pale blue white both stick to resin just fine. Are you not washing your resin?

>>54927189
>that abomination
>a saw
It looks like a bag of dicks and probably costs 3 times what a regular hobby or jewellers/coping saw does

>>54927189
Having removable blades on a saw, of all things, as well as the blades being bendy as fuck and not giving a clean finish on the cut. I actually despair to know this thing exists.

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>>54925520
>Mother of God why is his head so fucking large???

Several of the second round of metal Mk VI beekees were based on the same body sculpt, but with different heads and/or limbs. Captain Lowbroe (aka "Power Sword", part #070119/26) is the same body as Brother Lestrade (aka "Bolter 9", part #070106/5). Brother Dixon (aka "Bolter 6", part #070121/49) is the same body as Brother Lustgarten (aka "Bolter 12", part #070106/7). Captain Huron Grimm (aka "Chainsword 2", part #070119/36) is the same body as Brother Thaw (aka "Chainsword 1", part #070119/22).

It's not a stretch to imagine that some of the heads were sculpted separately and then mated to the bodies later, thus resulting in a mismatch of scale.

>>54927259
>Having removable blades on a saw, of all things

All the commonly used hobby saws have removable blades unless you use jeweler's saws. The Xacto saw is removable.

>>54927199
I'm using UHU Patafix. It's basically the same, only in german. I tried it on multiple resin models, all of them soaked in soap water for a few hours and scrubbed with a soft toothbrush afterwards. They all fell off.
Plastic on the other hand sticks perfectly fine to it.

>>54927066
no worse than any of their other tools which any other generic craft/hobby company makes a nice version of for a fourth of the price

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>try to take a picture
>looks like shit
Time for that lightbox and a fancier camera I guess.

Anyway, what do you think of my Space Marines, anons? I'm still waiting for their other shoulderpad, and I'll add the chainswords they have later on. Should I add some purity seals, to give them a bit more flavour (and to cover up mistakes), or leave them as they are?

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>5 bucks for 14 half filled Adeptus Mechanicus sprues
oh lawdy

>>54916758
i fucking love the one on the far left

>>54907461
>>54907503
Where do you guys fine brother craig? I've been looking for a couple weeks and can't find one.

/wip/ I need help, If the basecoat is Dark reaper, what should I use for highlights? it seems most point to Thunderhawk blue but is there any better? and what would I use for the next hightlight colour?

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The bones quest continues. Reaper metallics are kind of crap to work with...

>>54928397
Lookin good, Anon. Really like the face. Bit of spill over on top of the axe head though.

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This is my first time basing models, what do you do for the rim? I was thinking maybe just some mournfang brown

I'm planning to add some snow as well later on

Thanks

>>54928690
The base itself looks alright, I'm actually a fan of clean black around the bottom rim for contrast. You should really thin your paints for your model next time tho...

>>54928916
honestly I was thinning my paints, people keep saying it's too thick so I guess I am not thinning enough

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Is pic related just a sephia wash on white base, and beil tan?

>>54929140
U should thin it to the point where it takes 2-3 coats to get a solid color. It's hard at first, but give 1 part water 1 part paint a go. It actually makes painting 'cleaner' easier.

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>>54928288
>Where do you guys find brother craig? I've been looking for a couple weeks and can't find one.

eBay now requires that every auction sport at least one picture. This makes it easy to go down long lists and see if any of the thumbnails look interesting enough to check out. Occasionally, I do find one on eBay, and if I do, I post it here ... regardless of how stupidly inflated the price might be. That being said, I don't see any there right now either, and haven't seen one for months. I search using this string:

(oop,"rouge trader","rogue trader",metal,vintage) ("space marines","space marine","blood angels","blood angel","space mariens","blood angles") -chaos -epic -atax -kenner -ccg -maelstrom -cryomek -grendel -void -vasa -dirtside

... in the Toys & Hobbies category, and restrict the location to the United States for one search, and the UK for the other.

If you're a member of any phpBB forums or Facebook groups that might traffic in old models, they're always worth a shot, too. There was a guy in Australia on the Oldhammer forum that had a whole squad of metal beekees that included the Brother Craig model, but he's doubtless sold them by now.

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Boutta start painting my first cavalry model. Any newbie mistakes to avoid with horses?

>>54929260
okay thanks, I guess I was just rushing too much. in the future I'll slow it down and do more thinner coats

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>>54929377
>Boutta start painting my first cavalry model. Any newbie mistakes to avoid with horses?

Blood Angels don't ride horses, anon, but I have this...

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Rate my dude. Don't know what colour to paint the next 10 plaguebearers though. Already have campshade and violet ones

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>>54929377
>>54929448

... and this.

>>54929448
>>54929497
Thanks, anon! Useful stuff!

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First attempt at freehanding my chapter icon on an actual mini rather than a bit of paper, getting it symmetrical isn't fun and i'm still thinking about just making decals instead.

>>54929621
See if u can make a stamp since it's just black

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>>54929317
Thanks fampai. I'll try some Facebook groups and keep an eye on eBay. Probably see if I can make a link that auto filters EBay.

>>54929621
That tower looks kinda bored

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Just gotta base both these guys (gonna replace the shitty flock on the guys in the back with the pretty good gw flock) and my overly converted tankbustas will be done.
Unless I decide to a do a third squad, or a 6th because I can with the new detachments rules

I've got back after 5 years to paint again and I forgot how much I hate/how terrible I was at painting white. My local store had no palid wych flesh so I've been trying a thin layer of administratum grey followed by ceramite white.

Thinking of just doing Black Templars with Red where it should be white but idk.

>>54929939
I prime in white whenever a model is going to have a lot of it. Never get it as good looking as just raw spraypaint.

>>54929978
Is it easier to paint black over white?

>>54930015
A lot easier.

>>54930024
welp, good thing I've got a big jug of Simple Green coming in the mail

>>54925706
Vallejo air metallics make my dick hard, use them

>>54930405
I hear Scale75 have the best metallics in the business. How does VMA compare to them?

>>54930482
Scale75 metallics are worse. The only better acrylic metallics than VMA is Vallejo Metal Color and Vallejo Liquid Gold which is alcohol based.

Well wip I'm trying out rubber pour mould making for the first time. Wish me luck.

>>54930596
Good luck anon. Post results.

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Thats one Regimental Advisor down

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>>54930596
>Well wip I'm trying out rubber pour mould making for the first time. Wish me luck.

Bless your weapons and go!

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>>54930703

I converted mine to carry the bosspole for my devastator squad's sergeant.

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>>54929317
>>54929757
For the time being I'll have to make due with this guy.

>>54930700
>>54930824

So far, it's a fucking mess. Fucking hope I'm doing this right.

>>54918296

Patrick Keiths Bombshell Miniatures webshop sells it in the USA

>>54920395

Nice, How'd you do the chipped paint effect so well?

>>54928397

Rust up that metal with some orange and red/brown anon

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>>54916323
Just finished and prior to varnish. No bully plz.

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So how do you guys deal with burnout? I've always done 40K from a hobbying perspective more than a gaming one, and by this point I just feel like I've painted everything I wanted to. Half the legions, probably over 150 space marines over a year and a half, bunch of Imperium and Chaos of different factions, and now everything kind of feels like a chore that I know I'll take weeks to do.

The big thing is that I think it's just the endless numbers of infantry chaff, but in order to do the big shit I have to have stuff to support it. What do?

>>54931147
>all those humans
Time to become a race traitor!

Go paint some alien maiden elves

>>54931147

I've dealt with it by taking my time. I don't get to paint very often due to work or due to laziness when I do have time so I still have a lot to due. I've lost interest once or twice but I just ended up playing video games for a month or three, getting bored of that, then coming back to the hobby refreshed.

>>54931082

Very nice eye lenses, the green highlights on the black gun are an odd choice but look cool. The highlights on the bodysuit look more like blobs, though.

So I'm going to be painting a bunch of Salamnders and I figure I may as well spray paint their basecoats. Any suggestions for a suitable green spray paint?

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>>54930937
You could also make your own like another anon did.

>>54931082
>posts better-than-vast-majority paintjob
>No bully plz

Were you worried you'd be bullied out of jealousy or something?

>>54931147
Build your own ork vehicles.

It's fun.

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Anons post your back logs. Trying to summon strength to get motivated and finish painting. Got a swarm box and flyrant to go with a toxicrene on the way.

>>54931479
My backlog is all in bits/boxes since I don't play unpainted, so I just assemble and paint one box at a time.

>>54931479
And a broodlord on the way as well. Feels like its going to take a long time to get through this chaff

>>54931489
I usually have that rule as well but i went and got the swarm box and saw some great deals on ebay and now here i am with the biggest backlog of shit ive ever had

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>>54930954

Well I tried. Hope at least some of them fucking work.

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>>54930937
>>54931420
I did. The last pic, and pic related are my version.

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So what did I do wrong, and how can I fix it? I know it's shit, i'm kinda new at painting I'm just trying to get better and I really want my Ministorum army to look good. After all the effort i'm putting into modeling them it seems a shame for them to have shit paint jobs.

>>54932114
You've got to do multiple thinned out coats instead of a single one. It's agonizing and takes a lot of patience, but it's what it takes to look good.

I'd also watch some of Duncan's videos.

>>54931420
>clip
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

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I'm doing it lads.

>>54932202

Good luck and godspeed anon.

>>54932114
Dont just go paint pot to model anon. Thin your paints to a milky consistency and do 2 thin coats. Take your time and be patient. Wait for coats to dry before going over them. If you have shaky hands when you hold the model try touching your wrists together to minimise some shaking. Follow the good old fasioned tried and true steps in order. Undercoat, base colours, wash layer and then highlight. But most importantly anon, be patient and take your time. No one is a greatnpainter right from the word go. In 99.99% it takes te and practice. You can do it anon we all believe in you

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>>54928916
yeah black rims turned out really well thanks

>>54932295

Thanks anon.

>>54932354
Black rims at best rims

>>54922644
I love the colors.

>>54926036
WITNESSED!

How would I go about making a rusted, dirty looking blue colour?
I'm doing a blue colourscheme for my Death Guard, and I want them to look like they've been pulled from the ocean, but I don't really know how to go about making blue look dirty.
Thanks for any help.

>>54932195
>scanner thing

REEEEEEEEEEEE

>>54932893
If you want to do something that looks like it's been taken out of the ocean, have you considered using rust and moss instead of blue? Take a look at old, rustic gear that's been sitting at the bottom of an ocean or lake for years and you'll see that it's never actually the color blue. If you want to make it blue, I'd suggest something like Kantor blue with some green shades, maybe a few, and some typhus corrosion at the edges and across the largest sections. Brass and rhinox at the metal edge. It could be something baller if done right

>>54933002
Cheers, I'll give it a look. The whole ceramite being metal but not looking like metal throws me off a bit, and I kinda wanted to do blue just to bring up the image of water.
I just wanted to kinda look more into the industrial design a lot of the models have and make them look like salvaged, bloated corpses rather than diseased and plagued if you get what I mean?

>>54933029
If you want to mix all of that together, have you thought about buying something like broken pipes and equipment off of, say, something like Secret Weapon that probably has it, and some model still water? You can totally do what you're aiming for, but what you can't do on the models you can totally do on the bases to give that impression that you seem to be going for. Make the bloated and waterlogged corpses pale and withered from years of abuse in the sunless sea, kept alive through the machinations of Nurgle.

I think what you have is a really good idea, just might be a little bit of work to get right. It'll cost you some more to get the water and other bits (20-30 max, probably) but would look amazing.

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Finished my first Plague Marine for my Purge Warband.

C&C Welcome!

>>54933065
Yeah, I've never used it before, but I was thinking of using that water effect to a degree, hadn't thought of piping though. And the pale grey skin on my Plague Marines and Poxwalkers is a definite.
You've given me a few ideas to work off of, cheers!

>>54929621
WE WUZ ROOKS N SHIET

he looks cool, but maybe do the hoofs in bone instead of the armour colour

>>54933184
DOOM/10
>>54933295
Stop that this instant.

>>54927066
They used to do a really nice razor saw that cut on the pull. Very sharp and very clean smooth cuts with little burr.

>>54933184
Did you do the base and miniature separately?
it's a small thing, but you can still see the tab around his feet.

Just something to watch for in future

>>54933360
Yeah cause they're the push fit guys and I wanted to see what the basing scheme looked like.

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>>54917494

Hey you went for a similar paint scheme to my mates! Is this a standard tau scheme?

>>54932966
what are those heads on the three in front?

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What bits are used in this? Specifically the helm

>>54927066

My team at work bought me all the citadel tools for Christmas.

They're not half bad really.

>>54933960
>That Krieger

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c20-fm_WNew&ab_channel=BenjaminBreeg91

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Finally found the lost mini and finished him. Thoughts?

>>54933960
Definitely the Termie Sorcerer and the regular Sorc, but for the tendrils on the helm I am not sure. Maybe Kabuki? Everything else is just those two kits though, except for the Krieg dude.

>>54934023
Looks really nice. My only criticism is that the NMM on his arm and shoulder isn't terribly convincing. It reads more like stone than metal.

>>54933960
the staff and helm come from the termiantor lord/sorc kit. Backpack is the old thousand sons aspiring sorcerer one, now out of production. The serpents are from a dark elves kit from AoS. Legs are DA, tabard is from the CSM sprue.

>>54934058
Oh good, because they were meant to be sharpened granite.

>>54934023

>Do you like this head?
It's ok
>Thanks

>>54934026
>>54934063

Thanks guys!

>>54934075
I was about to say the same as the other anon, but now that I realize that's sharpened rock it's 10x better. Awesome job anon

>>54933936

It's from one of the old Elf kits from fantasy. Shadow warriors I think.

>>54932195
>I made the picture and the original Johnny P

Just read it as clipazine. I'm in/k/ompetent

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>Working on Snakebite Ork army
>Using Orruk models and some chopped up shoota/slugga bitz to make them 40k boyz.
>Using Boarboyz as bikers with shootas and whatnot.
>Eventually wonder what I'm going to use for a Gorkanaut/Morkanaut
>Happen to go to Forgeworld for a moment to look at something for a friend.
>See pic related up for preorder
>tfw
Fuck yes.

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Just browsing the fleabay. Found these "6 Eldar Guardians" for sale.

Yes.

Indeed.

It's a shame that ebay can't have a community tagging system... I'd go about removing the "Rogue Trader" tag from all the 6th ed stuff that has it.

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>>54934294
fuck huge file resized

>>54934306
so far i've only done base colours and nuln oil, but should i keep doing red fists or silver? 8/25 at this stage atm

>>54934335
Go red fists, so your terminators dont have to wash their hands when they get the blood of their enemies on them.

>>54934306
Keep the silver, if you want to gun to pop out. Having both the storm bolter and power fist that red is drawing your eyes in two different directions rather than a single focal point. Red SB, red iconography, maybe do a purple on the purity seals for some more variation in color.

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I will probably redo the eyes. Wanted to see how it would look to put a glaze on metallic though.

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done with my house Makabius Death Guard Knight. turned out a bit more bluish than planned but oh well.

I have few questions, first does anyone have White Scars that have shadows and crevices redish, like Reikland Fleshshade? Secound is can I paint my minies to make them playable and then after a week or months of mot touching them add contrasts with lets say two brush technique? I want to have an ready painted army first not have to spend 100+ hours for a 1000 pt army

>>54931806
any updates castbro?

>>54931806
>MILKED.COM

Why are people obsessed with making edges stick out, no military would do that. Alos it is a 3D miniature you can clearly see its edges unless you are wearing glasses or something, heck even then.

>>54934617
>I have few questions, first does anyone have White Scars that have shadows and crevices redish, like Reikland Fleshshade?
I haven' seen one but yeah, you could do it that way. But WS have white markings on their armor, so I think the red in red tones are gonna look a bit boring. If you want something warm I'd suggest going for a sepia shade instead, or for an additional bit of warm/cold contrast a blue.

>Secound is can I paint my minies to make them playable and then after a week or months of mot touching them add contrasts with lets say two brush technique?
Not sure what you mean by two brush technique. Wetblending? You could definitely do that too. Just keep in mind you'll want to varnish after you finished the paintjob, so in the meantime you'll play with unvarnished minis. Or you'll have to varnish twice.

>I want to have an ready painted army first not have to spend 100+ hours for a 1000 pt army
1000pts is pretty small for marines, unless the points costs have changed drastically.
So I doubt you'll spend a hundred hours. Practice will also make you faster.

These days I'm probably at somewhere around 40minutes for a quick paintjob of the quality that took me over an hour a few years ago.

One thing to keep in mind with the whole painting the army to table ready and then adding the details later is that you should have the whole thing worked out beforehand. So paint a tester from start to finish the way you want to see if it works for you. You don't want to paint your entire army halfway through before you realize there would have been a different way to paint them that would work better or something like that.

>>54934673
What the hell are you even talking about?

>>54934673
I can't tell if you're complaining about edge highlighting or model silhuettes.

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Slowly making progress. Once got first drybrush on the wood will wash with various colours and drybrush again.

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New project I've been working on. I'm making an IG army themed off the comic The Crossed. I chose light colors to show right off the bat that these aren't traitor guard and that something else is up. What do you guys think???

>>54934807
that's... acutally pretty dope imho.
Not used to such bright colours

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>>54934807

>>54934807

Interesting concept, I like the idea (and I'm aware of crossed) I like your scheme.

but I warn you now... 9/10 people... nay 19/20 people... 49/50 people... will say

>Cool heretic guard, bro!

>>54934807
Alas, poor Yorick! I knew him, Horatio.

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First Warlock. I bought a Farseer and put the Warlock head from the Skyrunner kit on him.

The head is not secure yet; I might magnetise it because the paint job is better than on my current Farseer.

>>54934745

Nice, what's the company?

I know you're not finished but it could do with some thin washes on some areas, greens over the stones for exampl

>>54934807
I dig it, paintjob looks cool. I presume you'll go full warcrimes with flamers and chemical Hellhounds and such? I suspect the bastards wouldn't really enjoy regular artillery and firing lines quite as much.

Hey /WIP/ looking for some advice on how to transition two different skin colours on the same miniature.

I want to paint some Skinks, with blue skins, but it transitions to green near the lower legs and arms. Any idea how to do this in a easy fashion (might be painting 80 skinks).

I was personally thinking, white undercoat, and then use coloured washed for the initial tones and trying to blend them while still wet.

>>54934979

>I was personally thinking, white undercoat, and then use coloured washed for the initial tones and trying to blend them while still wet.

This or use an airbrush.

But your idea is solid.

>>54934023
Looks fine, why did you replace the sword with the head though?

>>54928397

Are the reaper series brush on primer and sealer worth getting?

My bones dudes have paint chipping off and feel sticky all the time...

>>54934673
>autism

>>54935007
>sticky
Then don't 'hot glue' them you fuckin' perv.

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>>54933184
>that helmet

He's a bad guy.

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>>54934807
nice heretics, bro.

>>54934673
>I'm too lazy to highlight, everyone else stop so my shit won't so look bad by comparison

>>54934523
I like it alot anon, great knight. Are your death guard blue also?

>>54916550
That's a really crude conversion. The icon of khorne looks really slobby and tagged on, the skulls are too similar and the head - good lord, i'm just going to assume, that that is chinacast. The surface looks jagged in all the wrong ways and why on god's green earth would you add a bird's head to a daemon machine of khorne?! No, let me just guess: Because it was easy.

>>54916758
Really great stuff here, that colour scheme does wonders for the very crowded design of the rubics. Excellent paintjob, btw.

>>54919135
I like this one, simple, yet effective. So it's very nurgle in that way. The guy itself works very nice, i like the small changes that you did to the original model.

>>54919356
It can't help but chuckle at the idea of your guys having a void fight and their heads just popping off due to sudden exposure to the vacuum. Silly stuff.

>>54929466
Good job, also very much enjoy the alternative scheme, there are too many plain green nurglefolk out there.

>>54934807
That's a nice colour scheme, very bright and almost uplifting for a guard army. The battle damage and the wounds are very subtle, and i like that as well. But you missed out on a few mouldlines and your barrels aren't drilled either. Don't be lazy like other people, Anon, go the extra mile and finish up some quality work!

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I'm happy with everything except the luminescent part of the lascannon.

Since it has those big spire, unlike plasmas, I didn't know what to do precisely.
Any suggestion for next time?

>>54935502
Red is harder to make look glowing in my experience. I'd suggets making the top part of the coils brighter and make a very faint orange highlight on the metal edges close to the coils to sell the glowing light effect.

>>54935214
Thanks!
My Death Guard is more in the official colour scheme. House Makabius is blueish/grey + crème.
http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/House_Makabius
unfortunately the blue turned out wrong.

>>54934986
l dunno, always wanted to have a warhammer mini that's not holding a weapon. Plus his sword is ugly.

>>54935007

For bones I actually use the Vallejo surface primer. You have to really dig in with your nail to get the paint off.

I have both the reaper primer and sealer... I rarely use them.

What I like about the Vallejo stuff is u can thin it with water and just slam it on kind of rough to get a good coverage and then as it dries it shrinks into all the details.

>>54934134
thanks man

I'm running out of green stuff again...where can I get some that's not sold in ridiculous 2-oz-for-$16 packages?

>>54928211
How? Local schmuck offloading his stuff?

>>54936308

some people don't care for Bitz boxes.

Once they clip what they need off the spru they sell or *throw* away

>>54936512
Damn, I need to keep an eye out for that. Would be nice to pick up some cheap parts.

>>54936201
Greenstuffworld has 1m for 10€ i think? So, about 3 feet for 15 dollars or so.

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Finished the "Throne of Judgemend" for my Word Bearers. Its a Twinlas/Rak-Helbrute.

>>54937051
Nice idea

>Doomrider is a Word Bearer now

New Thread

>>54937302