WIP - /wipg/ Painting and Modeling Thread

>>54647618
So I have only been Painting Heroic Scale 28mm so far, I am about to get some Larger Models in the Mai soon, about 4 times bigger as a Marine

are there any differences when it comes to painting them, like different ways to Highlight/Shade ?

Should I Airbrush them instead?

>>54647711
It dependes, it has large flat surfaces? then use airbrush, if not the case, stick with regular brush

Does anybody know where to get Dental Stone in Canada that ships? I want to make molds for generic things like bases but plaster of paris, and hydrocal aren't cutting it. I could use resin or metal, but I want my models to last more then a few uses. I've looked everywhere but haven't found shit.

>>54647711
Have you painted tanks? You're gonna see a lot more of the detail, but the process isn't that different. And with everything an airbrush is a tool you should use if available to complement your other tools and painting styles.

Anyone here had Issues with Army-Painter Spray-Primer?

Mine seems to dry out really grainy is it just a bad batch or is this common?

>>54648256
That's what most people on here want. It's what real primer does, it eats away at your nice smooth model and makes it look like sandpaper.

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Not legal yet but it looks cool so fuck it.

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What's a good source for skull helmets for converting eversor assassins?

Does Duncan's recommendation for transfers, 'ardcoat, transfer, and then Lahmian medium or more 'ardcoat work well?

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>>54648407
Also, does this look good as a power axe to give him?

>>54648427
I don't know any,and I know quite a few miniature companies, I'd suggest getting a good looking skeleton and green stuffing it.

>>54648439
Two obviously dwarven. Otherwise it fits well size wise. The dwarf face and beard make it a little weird though.

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What's the secret do doing a good recess wash? I'm finding that if I use enough to actually shade the recesses, it stains too much of the surrounding colour.

>>54648256
that happens to me if i'm standing too far away from the minis when I prime, you've got to be closer than if you're using say a GW spray

>>54648556
Yeah the too dwarven was my worry. Not sure where else to find/make a double headed axe though, other than the sanguinary guard one. How reliable are most bitz sellers?

>>54648588
You can always use two coats, or repaint the overwashed areas. Though the best advice I can give is use the right brush. The brush you use for normal painting is probably piss poor for that work. I use one that specifically can hold a lot of paint, and is easy to control flow with.

>>54648069
>>54648009

I did paint a few tanks (mostly with Sprays)

I dont actually own a Airbrush yet, was just checking if its a Must-have for larger Models, pretty much every painting Video except GWs uses Airbrushing for atleast some parts.

Are there some affordable & decent Airbrushes you can reccomend by any chance?

Does anyone know if standard primer (like krylon) works well on paper? I've got a whole bunch of paper hammer tanks I want painted fast.

>>54648633
There's a few double headed axes in the Space Wolves kits. The Thunderwolf Cavalry one isn't too wolfy.

>>54648427
would these work?
https://puppetswar.eu/product.php?id_product=529

>>54649124
Oh neat, that looks pretty perfect! Thanks dude.

Now to find a good bitz seller.

Building some scouts for SWA, I'm going to make them Crimson Fists. I'm not sure what color to paint the aquilas on their chests, from what I've seen people generally paint them gunmetal or grey. Should I go with leadbelcher or just flat grey?

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Working on my first Infinity trooper. Unfortunately the primer I used went on grainy but I'm trying to make the most of it.

>>54649468
Apologies for sideways pic, posting from my phone.

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>>54647618
Very WIP

>>54649468
strip and try to re prime.
color scheme works nicely.

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I've progressed this much. Is this acceptable?

>>54649583
nice start!
what range/manufacturer?

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>>54649614

>>54649620
They're Perry miniatures Mahdist, converted to be orcs for LOTR.

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Building a Witch Hunters army for 40k right now and I'm really struggling to come up with ideas for acolytes. Can anyone suggest some good looks legs and torsos from which to build from? Also would Warhammer ghouls make a good base for arco-flagellants? They're the right pose but might need a lot of green stuff.

I'll be starting on a Ministorum Priest soon. I plan on mounting a sound system on his back so he can broadcast his sermons across the battlefield. Will post pics hopefully.

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>>54649703
Genestealer Neophyte body and just pieces from all over. Fantasy Empire bits looks great, or you can go like I did and make each person coming from different background with the same uniform. Nothing says 40k like Fantasy.

>>54649614
>>54649631
Yeah, these are great. I dig it.

>>54649614
>>54649631
love these

>>54649631
Cheetor/10. In all seriousness, they look great.

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>>54649703
To add to what this >>54649778 Anon said, I heavily recommend picking up a box of empire flagellants. Even you don't plan on using their bodies the kit comes with a bunch of good bits that are great for adding flavor. Pic related, my priest.

>>54649703

How about using the renegade apostate preachers of nurgle and the rogue psyker
greenstuff the shit out of them

Has anyone used the burning of Prospero marines to make Chaos Marines? If so I'd like to see them. Thinking of using them to make some post heresy chosen for a warband.

>>54648437
Please? Anyone?

>>54649614
if it were me I'd probably use a bit of red wash in the deeper recesses of the skin, to separate it a bit from the carapace

but it looks good dawg

>>54648437
Try it for yourself. That's the joy of painting. If it looks like shit you can just paint over

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Celebrant chad marine

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>>54650818
Tried some new techniques and ideas with this guy, overall happy with how he came out besides my very poor attempt at blacklining

>Chad marine starring in you came to the wrong neighborhood git

>>54650818
looks a little thick on the forearm and his left shoulder pad, and I can see some of the white primer showing through on/around his fingers. That's a totally mental scheme though, are you doing a whole army?

>>54650841
In the long run yes but I like doing these guys one at a time.

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Alright boys, need some input. So yesterday was the first day in literally months that I could prime. So I rushed some half assembled models together to join the rest I had ready to prime and this here chaplain was one of those rushed models. It wasn't till late that night when I noticed this little side leg armor thing wasn't attached. Should I attach it? Or should I try and do some form of paint scarring to look like he took a hit and lost it and part of the leg?

>>54650818
Looks pretty damn good. The transition between the yellow and orange could be better though.

>>54650872
i agree it's hard due to primaris knee areas, the raised ridge made it look more like I miss painted orange at the top than a gradient. When I painted the whole kneecap orange it made his legs oddly stumpy and not in a good way

>got really drunk and high and made crazy hawaiian monk backstory celebrants
>blood angel successors was the first step since celebrants are people who run rites and rituals I got the idea that they combat the red thirst via a super regimented, ceremonial lifestyle
>doesn't fly over too well with the blood angels and the discoverer takes his followers and fucks off
>got the idea to make them hawaiian because of the colors (red and yellow are important people colors in hawaii and mai tais)
>so they discover some paradise world and settle down for their homeland over time they adopt more and more customs of the locals
>strict ritual way of life because the Kapu/taboo laws
>as "celebrants" they lead tribal life as spiritual leaders and lawmen so between war they lead prayers and marry people and perform funerals as example
>mana is extremely important to them particularly the ritualized consumption of enemies to steal their mana. They understand that high mana people resist the thirst better but don't understand why (blood)

then i passed out

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>>54647618
My custodes i got 4 more ready but its 36 to go :,D im mad man

>>54651099
looks nice, clean highlights

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getting my display board ready for Armies on Parade, here's the layout of what it would look like before being rubbled.
Gaze upon the majesty of my concept

>>54651099
Dope

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Newfag here. This is my first warhammer figure, what do you think? I still have some highlighting to do for the metal and paint the base. Any advise would be helpful

>>54648439
Are you that guy making the Squiddly Diddly Marines?

>>54647618
Should I buy it? Might make him my Intercessor sergeant

https://klukvaminiatures.nethouse.ru/products/28003979

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>>54651220
100% yes

>>54651149

Why is your army stationed in a pleasant backyard veranda?

>>54650834
I switched from that silver Loctite to the black one. I don't know if it's a whole lot stronger, but it looked cooler so I spent the extra $1.

Also nice chapter choice. Forgot their name but i can't imagine doing any of those two color transition chapters without an airbrush.

>cunningly luring orks into close combat to prove the superiority of mankind

>>54651149
oh yeah, does anyone have a good source of broken glass besides waiting for some dope to smash a window at work again?

>>54651276
superior retirement benefits

>>54651188
For a first fig, not bad, not bad at all.
The red could probably use a bit more highlighting, but other then that, looks not bad at all.
>paints that look properly thinned
Duncan-senpai smiles at you

>>54651400
Thanks anon, I didn't forget my two thin coats either ;^)

>>54649614
Needs a recess wash of a third color beside yellow and green, like blue or red.

>>54651099
I always feel terrible critiquing a model that's better than I can do, but the tassels are a little flat.

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Primaris Ancient WIP

also wounded thumb

>>54651542
>drybrushing marines

duncan has failed you my child.

also not a fan of the black helmet desu, gold looks good though

>>54651576
Oh is drybrushing them bad?

and the helmet is leadbelcher with a Nuln wash

>>54651591
not really, its more about taste, but duncan used to make videos about proper line highlighting and now he just says drybrush the entire marine

as long as you are consistent and not heavy handed its fine.

>>54651608
Ah, i cant line highlight for shit honestly, hands aren't steady enough tend to try and keep dry brushing light though

>>54651591

Most people think the look of drybrushing on flat surfaces looks ugly because you can see the drybrush marks due to the flatness of the surface.

You can hide it by using a blue glaze.

>>54651653
Hmm, guilliman blue glaze? only thing then is it would be real shiny

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For Crimson Fists can I get away with using Macragge Blue or should I get something darker?

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does /tg/ have a favorite model / models due to their performance and insane luck? I created a backstory for one of my models because for some unknown reason he always kicks ass and has a long history of victory


from right to left
>starts as a devestator marine I got from the dark vengeance set
>play a couple matches, he manages to survive all of them
>on like my 5th match he one shots 5 chaos chosen, and makes them fail a moral test forcing the other 3 to run off the board.
>play a lot more matches and he continues to survive each one, even if his squad gets wiped out he is the lone survivor
>he one shots a wounded demon price in overwatch, saveing his entire devestator squad from ruin
>decide to promote him to a tactical marine to the left of the devestator
>this fucking tactical marine survive every conflict and always achieves his objective
>some matches later he is the lone survivor of his tactical squad, he charges a chaos lord and 1v1 him in close combat and kills him with only a close combat weapon.
>decide to upgrade him to a plasma gun
>every match all my plasma dudes overheat except for him
>this goes on for like 1.5 years of him just kicking ass and takeing names, not dieing once
>give him the name Octavious, a true son of the lion
>just last week on astaramis his squad, once again, gets btfo except for him by a squad of bikes on the first round
>doesnt fail his morale check
>say fuck it, his time has finally come, atleast he will go out in a blaze
>he throws a krak grenade killing one of the bikers
>he then charges and kills another of the wounded bikers
>gets locked in combat for the next 4 turns, killing 2 more bikers with a fucking knife
>made over 15 3+ armor saves with him with only 2 re rolls.
>only 2 bikes left when he falls back, and by then my models have made it there to kill the rest of the bikes.
>upgrade him to sergeant and am now waiting for even greater deeds.

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>>54651708
i would say its not dark enough, pic related is a hellblaster I painted, and its macragge blue, and a little darker in the pic then irl.

also thoughts on my hell blaster? sorry for shitty pic

1/2

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Is gloss shade better for recess shading, or does it dry too shiny?

>>54651853
alright, I'll look into getting something darker then.

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>>54651853
2/2

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Does anyone own any Kolinsky sabel brushes? If so how do you like then compared to synthetic?

>>54651867
its gonna be shiny, thats what gloss does

typical shade is matte.

>>54651870
Isn't Kantor Blue the Crimson Fists blue?

>>54651800
Way back in early 5e I had a relatively vanilla ork nob modeled with his klaw arm raised, almost like he wast catching something.

In his first match, he had battlecannons fired at his mob, which kept scattering back into the tanks or other IG squads. This motherfucker was catching battle cannon shells and throwing them back at the enemy.

He later got shot by plasma cannons from Sentinels and threw those back too.

It was a fun match all around.

>>54651895
I don't know, I'm just going to buy a vallejo paint for it since it's cheaper.

>>54651893
unless you are a pro painter not worth.

would make a nice gift i suppose.

>>54649177
puppetswar heads run on the small side, just a heads up for anyone thinking about ordering from them.

>>54651920
I was thinking getting one in 000 for fine detail, and using synthetic for everything else. I've read they keep a point better than synthetic, but not talked to anyone who's used one

>>54651893
I like them because they are softer, and that softness also means they aren't as prone to bending and fraying like synthetics. They also retain moisture better.

>>54651920
Shit painter detected. They are always worth it unless you are so bad and such a beginner that you destroy even kolinskies, which are already more durable than regular brushes. They only cost 2 to 3 times as much as a generic non-dollar store brush, and last many years longer, and is the tool you will use 90% of the time unless you airbrush, so why the fuck wouldn't you use one.

>>54651853
>>54651872
Good but boring I'd say. Very clean but nothing about it really stands out, maybe put some stronger highlights on the sharpest edges. Also I like the plasma glow, subtle but noticeable. I never liked models where the plasma glow is really strong and covers half the gun.

>>54651937

You don't need a triple 0 kolinsky that's fucking pointless. Get a size 0, 1, or 2. They will all have the same tip as the 000 with the benefit of actually having bristles.

>>54651950
m8 ive been using the same 3 brushes for like 3 years now, unless you are a hamfisted idiot even the cheapest brushes are easy to maintain and clean, your average painter is not going to notice a difference in quality of their paintjob.

>>54651684
Going over with lahmian medium should take the shine away, I think

How do people who live in an apartment prime their models?
Hop outside in the parking lot? Spray inside but wear a filter mask with the window open?

>>54652036
i airbrush now, but when i was living in my dorm i would just go outside with rattle cans.

>>54652036
TGM was talking about this in a video. Said he uses an airbrush because it doesn't smell.

>>54652025
Ill give it a shot tomorrow, will post results also, thanks

>>54652098
that wont do it, that medium is just raw paint with no pigment


if you want to eliminate the gloss you need matte medium, or a matte spray, simply putting on lahmian wont solve anything

>>54651975
Your personal anecdotes don't mean shit, asshole. Ask anyone that used the white handled Army Painter brushes. They shed bristles from simply rinsing them out in your water cup until they become useless whereas kolinskys don't shed period.

>>54651591
Highlighting makes them sharper and harder looking, while dry brushing makes them look softer and smoother. Generally you highlight inorganic, and drybrush organic, but that's not a concrete rule. And as has been pointed out, glazes will help with that dusty dry brush look and still keep your colours layered.

>>54652036
Cover board in sticky tack, stick models to it, walk outside and spray prime. I've never had trouble.

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Magnetized the roof-mounted big shoota to my grot short bus (counts -as trukk). There is also a rokkit launcha and skorcha option as well if I want to use it as a warbuggy.

>don't buy good brushes they won't help you because you're a shit painter just use shit brushes

Part of being bad at painting is often the small details because you struggle with a brush that doesn't have a good tip, or it might have a good tip but you had to go below size 0 to achieve it, resulting in paint drying too fast on the thin brush.

Telling people to avoid good brushes is like telling people not to thin their paints, not to use wet palettes, to let paint get in the ferrule, and all other sorts of bad advice.

It's amazing how often I see assholes giving completely terrible advice on these threads.

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>>54652162
>Ask anyone that used the white handled Army Painter brushes. They shed bristles from simply rinsing them out in your water cup until they become useless whereas kolinskys don't shed period.

you mean like this brush you fucker? i barely even fucking maintain this one and its fine, use it all the time for base coating and large details. and this is a cheap brush.

again, you have to be a retard to go through brushes, and only good enough painters will notice synthetic vs natural.

>>54651800
My favorite sergeant model now has the chance to become a lieutenant now, after his previous promotion to veteran sergeant.
Here's to you sergeant kickass, who will never get used again as I no longer need to field infantry

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>>54652241
Five grots on the vehicle in total. One hugging the flag,
one in the doorway, one driving and two seated in the bus. Both the boarding ramp and Waagh sign open and close. Still going to go for a bit more weathering and a few more grots on board later, but its tabletop ready for now

Have any of you guys had success using the Victoria Miniatures plasma guns with your IG? If so, what did you guys do to adapt them to the minis?

>>54652276
>paint all up in the ferrule
jesus christ, take better care of your brush

>>54652276
>regiment

No, the smaller ones dipshit.

>>54652276
>i've never heard of a brush that sheds for no reason, they don't exist
>i lecture better painters because i personally can't improve even with a kolinsky
>i talk about maintaining my brushes but my brushes look like THAT
>i'm too stupid to even use the shift key

Never post again.

>>54649614
>>54649631
Is this the Tyranid army that was dedicated to the laughing cheetah poster?

They look great. Good scheme and execution. I third that red recess suggestion though.

>>54648588
Inks, they are much stronger than a wash.

>>54652399
did you not say in this post >>54652162
>Ask anyone that used the white handled Army Painter brushes. They shed bristles from simply rinsing them out in your water cup until they become useless

and hey next time try to space out your posts, so they are not a minute apart.
>>54652399
>>54652410


>>54652264
my whole point is that you dont need to spend a lot of money to get good results, especially if you do not have the skill set to untilize better equipment

you should not buy some 1 dollar for 10 craft store bullshit, but you should also not be spending a lot of money on brushes especially if you cannot paint good enough in the first place to utilize the difference in quality. if however you start to notice that the thing that is limiting you is the brush, then you should upgrade

that being said my friend is a competition painter and he creates works of art IMO, and he uses the cheap army painter brushes and citadel brushes.

the way I like to think about it is you would not tell someone who just got into cycling to spend 2k on some carbon fiber bullshit, you would probably start on something cheaper no?

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Base coat is down for the first model I've painted in 5 years. Still don't feel great about it, but it's less horrifying than I remember.

>>54652474
>the way I like to think about it is you would not tell someone who just got into cycling to spend 2k on some carbon fiber bullshit, you would probably start on something cheaper no?
Not particularly reasonable comparison when you can buy the best brushes out there for less than 10 pounds.

>>54652516
i think that money you would save would be better spent on other supplies such as paints

but hey thats just what I think, if you want to use a really good brush then go ahead. not like there is anything wrong with it.

>>54648588
A couple things you can do. Thin the wash with flow-aid and an acrylic retarder, and use clean water with another brush to immediately clean up any flat areas. The retarder keeps acrylics from drying so fast. You can also apply a thin clear coat to the mini. This keeps the large flat areas slick so the wash flows over them better. Just coat with matte after you are done like usual.

>>54652474
>my whole point is
You're whole point is you're talking out your ass and have no clue what your point is. You absolutely can see a quality increase with minimal skill by using better quality tools, this is true of nearly every fucking thing. The assholes who use dollar store tools get dollar store results.

>>54651708
Use kantor blue. It's literally crimson fist, the paint.

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I know this is dumb and tangential, but I've been having a problem where when I get focused on painting and am trying to concentrate on what I'm working on, I start seeing flicks of movement out ofbthe corner of my eye and it breaks my concentration. Anyone else get this? How do you deal with it for extended periods of time? I'm production lining a squad of Neophyte Hybrids, notmally I can get one color on all of them before I have to step away but right now it's getting me badly, which sucks because I'm happy with how they're coming along and that's rare.

>>54652303
>>54652241
10/10
like this is absoluetely some of my favourite shit ive seen in a long time

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Still got some cover-ups to do and lacking paint for the purity seals and the eyes but other than that, how's this looking?
Weapon looks kinda meh imo but idk if it's thinned too much or too little

Also, how's the choice of colour for the weapon? Took what I had on hand but might be a bit too bright

>>54652241
>>54652303
Really liking this

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I'll highlight the other shoulder today and grab a better photo when the sun's out but could use some feedback on the weapon before I test on the other models

>>54652914

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Do you fully assemble and then paint or partially assemble and paint?

Also, anyone have advice on how to paint Primaris Lieutenant helmets? those strips are bananas.

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first time i've ever sculpted and tried to customize this maulifaux mini into a dude with a scythe.used privateer peess putty

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>>54653161
anyway to avoid the limp dick syndrome for small straight things?

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Got some plague toads in and gave em a quick go-over. C&C appreciated (I did tidy up the area around the middle one's eye, post picture taking)

>>54652474
The thing in my mind is that a brand new not on sale Winsor and Newton size 0 Kolinsky Series 7 brush is about $28USD. The university series223 brush is $8USD. Both brushes will last a long time with proper care, but the water retention in the series 7 soinds like it would be very useful while using thinned paints. My local art shop is also doing a 40% off sale right now so the series 7 is barely more than the 223. Seems to me like a decent investment in equipment.

I could see it not being worth the money if you were buying a size 6 brush at $88 rather than $12, but these small brushes are realitivly cheap.

>>54653150
Aside from being steady as fuck I'd say apply grey first, then the red stripe in the middle. Use something like White Scar to highlight the areas where the white overlaps raises edges like the edge of the top-of-the-head vent. If you just use white it leaves you no color to highlight with

>>54653150
partially assemble, always. I like to keep heads separate, as well as power packs, and bolters if they're right against the model.

>>54653150
Partially assemble, then paint, so I can easier reach all the small details and such. No idea how people manage to paint a fully assembled miniature in a way that doesn't look like shit.

>>54651893
Kolinsky sable vs synthetic is no comparison at all. Not only will the sable give you better results, it will feel much nicer to paint with. The belly of the brush will hold a lot more paint, so you'll need to reload less and the paint will flow on more smoothly. They're also not THAT expensive; $20 is a lot for a little tiny brush, but you're already paying for more than that for your little plastic men. You're going to spend hours and hours painting them - it makes sense to spring for a nice brush. Spring for some specialized brush soap and clean them religiously, and sable brushes will outlast synthetics by months or years.

Fine brushes are an investment in painting pleasure.

>>54653343
Thanks for the reply. I have brush restorer/cleaner made by Winsor and Newton, and I already do take care of them, making sure to never leaving paint on the brush. I already have some W&N synthetic brushes so I feel confident buying the brand, and my local shop is selling the Series 7 brush I want for $17 right now so after reading the responses I got here, and research I did online I plan to buy one tomorrow.

>>54650818
Tell me you rolled that Chapter in the 40k general some days ago. If you did, I'm proud of you bruv, you made it. It looks great, keep it up, it's such an unusual chapter scheme.

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Posted this in the DE thread already, but figured I may as well get input from here. The skin needs work, and the armor needs slightly brighter highlights, but overall I'm happy with this color scheme. My only issue is how I'll apply it to raiders and other vehicles. I was thinking about just painting the raiders black, with a glowing purple coming from between the panels.
>>54652241
>>54652303
Looks great dude.
I'm still slightly disappointed that it didn't blow up when my guys were fighting it last week.

>>54652795
Sounds like you're either haunted or you have schizophrenia. An exorcism will help regardless.

>>54653161
>>54653178

The shaft is as thick as his arm. You need to go thinner.

The object looks more like a giant turd than a scythe. Try actually looking up the traditional shape of a scythe's shaft, and replicate that.

You can use subtractive sculpting after curing, aka whittling it into shape and filing as needed. Subtractive sculpting will help especially with hard surfaces like weapon blades if you aren't sculpting using plasticard/sheet styrine.

P3 Brown/Aluminum Putty is a brownstuff, generally better for sculpting hard things, and isn't beginner friendly, best to compliment greenstuff sculpting.

Greenstuff is better for most sculpting. Kneadatite and Milliput are the "real" brands of greenstuff, with most others just being repackaged versions of it. (As tempting as the roll form is, go for the bar versions, since rolls have the blue and yellow touching and that causes the chemical reaction)

You want to use basic clay sculpting tools with a small cup/bowl of water, as damp tools make sculpting way easier, including smoothing out surfaces(like press-folds and fingerprints)

To add structure to things like shafts and tails, you can put greenstuff around a copper wire. This also enables you to prefab a shape, such as a scythe's shaft or curling tail.

About to make my first order on green stuff world, if anyone who has an account is interested post your email and I'll use it as my referral and you'll get 20 loyalty points

>>54653161
Use a paper clip or something as the shaft. Build the blade on top of that

>>54653657
What are you buying?

>>54649614
Jalapeno Cheeto Nids, fucking great! Will also backup a wash to separate the fleshybits from the carapace more.

>>54651800
I always like seeing cool plasma effects, that glow looks imposing.

>>54652241
This is really fantastic. Silly/awesome stuff like this almost makes me want to play Orks, but I'm just not really into them enough (probably because my brother and I got the 2e starter when it came out and I was pretty much forced to be orks).

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>>54653626
>The shaft is as thick as his arm

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>>54653667

>>54653178
for a flat price like that I'd try sculpting off model then allowing it to cure on some wax paper. it won't hold up against its own weight like that.

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Its Redemptionists time again...

Fuck. Just spotted bare metal.

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Shading gold with purple y/n?

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>>54653796
Y

>>54653796

Good for a base for bronze or a really bright gold if you get your highlights right.

>>54653796
Depends on the look you want famalam.

>>54653707
I had a feeling Bluestuff would be there.

Bluestuff is just Oyumaru repackaged and price-gouged. You can get the stuff on Ebay for $4.50 a 6pack, $3 shipping, and in many more colors.(Protip: using two different colors for each half of your mold makes things WAY easier, as well as buying more transparent colors)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oyumaru-Reusable-Molding-Stick-Instant-Moulding-stick-Various-Colors-6-pcs-/251271738205?var=&epid=1240331268&hash=item3a80f6735d:m:mheuSMQ2pI8WgGaQbhQGZzQ

Procreate is honest-to-gods not a great sculpting medium. I'll copypaste an important distinction for you:
>It is less sticky than green stuff, that means that less lubrication is required for the tools but also a little less adherence to the model, and it has very little shape memory, which is the tendency to return to its original shape if pulled, squashed or twisted.
Just get their Greenstuff in bar form; it's official rebranded Kneadatite, even referenced on the official Kneadatite-producer website. It's MSRP so you aren't getting scalped for it, at least.

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First Marine in about ten years or so, trying things like actual highlights and stuff, how'd I do?

(I've already covered the blue bit on the bolter port)

>have inspiration
>put one army away
>focus on other army
>get about 1500pts built and magnetized
>prime about a start collecting's worth
>start building shit for other army instead of painting

Kill me

>>54653831
Ah cool, thanks for the heads up man

>>54653700
l-lewd senpa
i>>54653626
thanks senpai, its really nice for you guys to help a newfag

Can you buy grewnstuff online? this is thw only stuff i found in Malta sadly

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How would one go about doing a paint chipping effect for models where the primary color is a metallic?

From my understanding you lightly sponge on a dark brownish grey first then follow up with something like leadbelcher applied more lightly, but the leadbelcher wouldn't show that well likely

>>54653878
Not bad for a ten year break, but did you use any washes? The square groove thing in his arm feels like it should be darker.

>>54653963

Sponge black and highlight with rust brown.

>>54653957
http://www.polymericsystems.com/epoxies-adhesives/epoxy-putty-tapes/where-to-get-kneadatite-blue-yellow.htm

Official vendors for Kneadatite greenstuff.
It bares repeating that you should get the bar form of it, and not the ribbon/strip/tape version, as the latter has the two parts connected at the middle, which wastes some sculpting material.

>>54651893
Do they kill the weasel or just shave it?

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>>54654050
yes

>>54653979
I gave it a Waywatcher green wash after using warpstone over an army painter angel green primer.

I'm thinking of doing a targeted wash in the recesses after the primer but also being more careful with the warpstone glow to leave some shading showing

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Next WIP cover is this

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>>54654158
>Option 1 or option 2?
>Yes

>>54654225
I'm so glad my OC took off.

You've happened upon one that's lost quality over time. Here's the original file without dithering.

>>54653957
>>54653999
I feel like Green Stuff World, based in Spain, might be your best option, at least for quick shipping?

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>>54654298

So, my drill bit is just barely bigger than the magnet I'm using, likely because one is imperial and one is metric. Am I ok using hot glue in the socket? I normally use a bit of Greenstuff to plug over drilled gaps, but I have a lot of these to do and don't want to use up a bunch of GS.

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>>54654376
It's on.

>>54654408
Depends on where the hole is drilled, like an arm on a space marine torso etc.

Half a millimeter isn't a problem and will normally be filled in by the superglue you put in the hole. Typically it won't be visible because it will get entirely covered by the thing that's being held on by the magnet.

You can use hot glue, but I don't think it's necessary.

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>>54654500

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I made this dude. Need to find my paint though, went missing following a series of moves.

>>54654050
Shave it. That's the hilarious part. Siberians chasing weasels to shave.

>>54652914
Smooth as fuck/10 my dude

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I need to clean the combi still, but how does it look on the termie? I really don't feel like cutting all my combi-bolter hands.

>>54654579
Reallty? Thanks anon!
That's my fourth model, got six more Tacs to waste practicing before I can start painting my actual army
Got any tips what/how I could improve before that?

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Started my first terrain table, got most of the fortress wall built, just figuring out where I want to put stuff now.

>>54654803
Not sure why it's upside down and can't figure out how to fix it (phoneposting), sorry lads

>>54654821
Looks fine to me m8

>>54652795
Those are just giant spiders circling you, waiting to pounce. As long as you don't fall asleep, everything will be fine.

I want to get into 40k, but how stupid do I sound if I want to remove some details from the models? I have a color scheme I want to do but there's the details on the chest armor will probably get in the way

>>54654952

Most people do this, especially if they are trying to use a model that has symbols on it that don't belong in their army.

Just take a knife and carefully shave it off, then finish it off with some good sandpaper.

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Is there a way to get paint out of the heel of the brush?
I've spent ages looking online and found nothing.

>>54654975
yea I was just wondering if I could file them away, also if I end up with gaps I can just fill them in with green stuff right?

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>>54654978

>>54654978
Give the shaft a good rub

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Anyone got any ideas for doing the orange of the bird?

The blues are covered on WHTV but he leaves out the orange...

>>54654500

The other real problem is the hollow chest cavity in the arm socket. I tried it out, and it worked pretty well. I just need to be quick about it and careful about strands.

Any tips how to quickly rebase my models? I want to put few of my minis on smaller bases. I was young and stupid so I used a lot of superglue to it might be hard to pull the minis off with a hobby-knife. Any way to remove them without destroying the bases? I want to use them as objective markers

>>54655836
Fug, no super glue - I used plastic glue. Also minis are plastic too

>>54655862
Might just cut them off slightly above your glue and hide it while rebasing, you could make it look like they're sinking a bit into the earth, or have the feet covered in snow for example.

>>54655836
were they on 25mm and you want them bigger?
try getting base addons that make them larger, they're like two halves that clip around the base

>>54655951
No, as I said I want to put them on smaller ones - they are on 40mm and I want 32mm. I already have the new bases but I have no idea how to remove minis from old ones without destroying them. The problem is that models are glued by their big flat feet so it's hard to fit the hobby knife blade under them

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>>54649703
here are the chaos cultists for my word bearers. Ive used a mix of old imperial flagellants, state troops, imperial guard, chaos cultists and a generous mix of bits. swap the chaos stars for imperial iconography and you are good to go.

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Hey, newbie here, just thought I might post a little project I've been working on, as a series of steps. I'd appreciate critique, advice and opinions, if you'd be willing, both on the crafting and the photography.

I'm doing my best to sculpt some castable RPG/dungeon terrain masters out of polyclay, having some success so far. Haven't tried casting them yet, I want to make enough objects that I can cast a bunch of them in one mould as secondary masters, ready to use those to make a larger mould with multiple of each type for mass-casting. Casting would be done in resin.

Tools and materials:
BeesPutty Firm polyclay
Dental sculpting set
An old surgical scalpel
A needle probe thing I got in the same set of junk as the scalpel
Very fine grit sandpaper for cleaning up
Computer paper for templates
Fineliner pen
Toaster oven
Corks, both large and placemat-style (for baking on)

This little square crate was my first try. I made a flat piece of clay (slightly uneven; I need a pasta machine), pressed it onto a pre-drawn template and cut it into six equal(ish) sides, which I then scored into "planks" with the needle tool and then, using the same tool, scribed with my first attempt at wood patterning.

These sides were then baked on top of the cork you see here, in a toaster oven (the calibration of which many blobs of clay donated their lives to).

Once hard they were mounted on four sides of a cube of clay, the edges smoothed, and the whole was baked again.

After that, I added the framework in stages, baking in between (if I'd done it all at once I'd be risking smooshing the stuff I'd be working on with my fingers as I held it). The last step was adding cross-braces. I elected not to add any nail holes as I thought they'd detract from the look.

The end result is slightly round-edged (though the camera seems to exaggerate that) and slightly wonky, but I think that fits the feel of a half-rotten crate that's been sitting in a dungeon for who knows how long...

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This second crate is different. I was feeling a bit more confident and I wanted something larger that could be opened and have things put inside it.

The beginning of the method I came up with is similar - another template, another hand-flattened piece of clay scalpel-cut to fit it - but I narrowed two of the edges so that the whole thing would be more or less square from the top when they were butted up against each other.

I failed to get a picture of it, but after I'd baked the sides, I added a little square of clay to the top side of the bottom of the crate to make it easier to position the sides... or that was the idea, anyway. I think I could have just held everything in place with thin layers of clay, in the end. Also, for the non-bottom parts, I added an additional layer of clay into which I sculpted another set of wooden "planks", this time in slightly less depth, as they were going to be on the inside of the crate and the underside of the lid.

After the bottom and sides were "glued" together with clay and had been baked a second time, I began to add the framework, bottom and top first (the top being painstakingly built up so that the "lid" side could comfortably sit inside the retaining "planks"), then the side frame, then the cross-braces. The final detail pass after all baking was done was to take my scalpel and carefully carve divisions between the top ends of the planks on the inside of the crate, as I'd forgotten to add that detail when sculpting the sides.

I'm not sure how easily the little hollow inside the crate will cast, but I wasn't yet confident enough to make the crate body a two-part piece.

if anyone's wondering, mould material will be Barnes PinkySil and the first run of castings will be with Barnes EasyCast, and yes, I have some experience with both, including cutting air channels. I'm thinking of getting a dental vibrator to try and ensure any bubbles are shifted out during casting - does anyone have any experience in that department?

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Next up...

>>54656046
Looks pretty rad anon

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>>54653700
L.lewd

>>54648427
Necron warriors?

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Custodes Grav-Rhino, based on the Repulsor kit.
I plan on using the Coronus rules for it, thus the mini-turret.
Not sure what to do about the stormbolter/frag-launcher turret over each door. Can't leave it off without it looking like ass.
Tribune for size.

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Noob here.
Posted this guy a few threads back, but I've since based him. Next time I will recess shade instead of shade-wash, and I won't thin the shade oils with medium. How does it look though? Literally the first model I've finished painting.

>>54656762
Can the rhino circle hatches fit there?

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Painting some heads

>>54657006
>niggers

>>54657086
WE WUZ CHAPTER MASTERS N SHIT?

>>54653963
>Don't talk to me or my sons ever again !

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>>54657054
>implying blacks will go to space

A black astronaut, Cyril... that's like killing a unicorn!

>>54649614
Looks great anon, but I'd add something to make the Carapce and flesh look a little more different to each other

>>54656981
It looks pretty good for your first needs some highlights though or it just looks lazy

>>54657287
Yeah, I was limited on time and was only using what was available for public use at the store (a few paints, and a Citadel "Starter brush"). I would've liked to but I didn't get a chance to try it out

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How's it looking for a first unit WiP?

WiP tac squad again, (slowly) making progress. These nine marines finished (plus little chapter serf), last marine underway. Thoughts and tips for bases? As my first unit, I've never done bases before. Ideally I want a nice green foresty base a la old goblin green bases, but with a neater look than just green flock.

>>54657516
What are you using to stick the model while painting? I'm tired with drilling tho

>>54657527
Painting them completely unassembled because I suck at painting in little crevices. Standard blu-tack, stick parts onto corks or paint pots while I'm working on them.

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>>54657516
>Ideally I want a nice green foresty base a la old goblin green bases, but with a neater look than just green flock.

I flocked most of my army, but the original formula back before the Dark Age of Technology wasn't actually flock. To simulate grass, you'd glue fine basing sand to the slottabase, paint it Goblin Green, and then highlight it (the Chapter Approved method back then *was* dry-brushing!) moving from green to yellow at the very tips. In this picture, that's the way the base on the Eversor is done.

>>54657643
>WRRRRRRYYYYY HERESYYYYYY
>they're all heretics Johnny!
>Why am I taking a most holy chapter chalice into battle?

>>54656762
It's a shame we'll likely never see 40k rules for the Coronus. Or anything else Custodes, for that matter.

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>>54657643

>He never dried out teabags to use as grass for his bases.

Why even live anon?

>>54657643
>>54657872
I didn't actually mean flock, I meant the green sand base. Technically this isn't the first unit I've painted, just the first I've painted in about 15 years. I first collected played and "painted" a model way back when the main game kit was marines vs dark eldar. They were horrifyingly THICC, and all on green sand bases, although iirc, the sand I got from GW came in a green colour, so you could get away with not painting it. Never tried dried teabags though.

>>54648437
just use mico set and micro sol.

>>54649669
>Muslim ooga boogas converted to be Orcs
kek

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>>54652276

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Hey /wip/ think this looks okay for a Chaos warband?

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So, in buying purple, I by accident ended up buying an ink instead. What do you use inks for?
Looking up tutorials seem to only show it as an alternative to washes. If I wanted to use a wash, I'd buy a wash. So what other uses do inks have then?

>>54658358
Ink is literally just wash with a different name

>>54658358
As a glaze, I guess with some medium?
Or you can use them to give colour to metallics. Want a purple metallic? Just slowly add drops of ink until you achieve the result you aimed for. But take note, they do thin the paint down quite well.

>>54658376
not unless we are talking real inks like back in the olden times.

The VGC stuff was made in direct competition to the last GW range of colors, so in this instance this probably holds true.

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Gaps filled and ready to prime

>>54658358
I use inks for fucking everything. Better than most washes. For some light colors like yellow inks make great basecoats

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>>54647618
Got big man Nork almost done, just a few touches and details then work on the base, any advice/ criticism?
>please don't be sideways

>>54658434
Uh, you sure on that big lump of greenstuff between skull and powerpack?

>>54658425
>>54658376
>>54658446

So >>54658395 seems to say that inks can be used as a glaze, or to give color to metallic paints. Can't I just use normal paints to color metallics?

What effect would a brighter color ink (or wash, if they're interchangeable) have on a mini, as opposed to the dark browns and blacks I usually see available?

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>>54658478
Bad angle sorry,

>>54658455
Sideways and grainy picture or just T H I C C

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Any advice on painting basecoats on large areas without an airbrush?
I'm getting a marauder bomber and don't want it to just be brush stroke city, I know I can use a spray bottle for the first base coat but after that I'll be brushing, or is an airbrush just mandatory for this size model?
>nb4 use multiple thin coats

Just got a free defiler. Are there any easy conversions so I can add this thing to my death guard?

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>>54657858 #
Yeah, it's a pity. I mean, I'm not really a fan of the vehicles, but Aquilon, Sagittarum and the various dreads would be amazing.

>>54658522

>nb4 use multiple thin coats

Too bad, it IS multiple thin coats. Just use a large brush.

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Didn't expect to, but I actually like how the big guy looks - even if it's mostly just basecoats right now.

Dreadlet for size comparison.

So I've only painted one mini so far (no pics, sorry) and I have to ask, when using Citadel paints, is priming actually important or do they just shill that to make more money?

I'd imagine it might be more important on metal and resin, but on plastic I'd really rather work directly on the dark gray than on black or white, and my one guy isn't flaking or anything (I'm not an army player, I'll be making display pieces, not ones that need to withstand constant handling.)

>>54657181
I can think of one black astronaut on the top of my head though. His official pic has him posing with dogs I believe.

>>54658830
Giving him ANY colour scheme but the overdone Ultramarines and some bits like purity seals, icons and the like might be helpful too. That way he actually doesn't look too shoddy. Dreadlet is still way cuter and superior.

>>54658843
You're probably thinking of Albert II. A true pioneer.

>>54658842
Priming is important. Not everything is a meme or shill. Remove mould lines, fill gaps with greenstuff (especially for a display piece), prime your minis and thin your paints. And don't be cheap on brushes.

>>54658830
I genuinely don't get the new Dread hate, I saw a guy who made one using the Onager Dunecrawler legs and shit looked really cool. I'm thinking of making one that looks like that once I get the scratch to start my Numarine army.

>>54658060

Fuck. I remember that coloured sand. It looked like absolute ass.

Yeah, I went down the painted sand route on my first few miniatures too. Complete with standard issue Goblin Green painted base rims.

Tea leaves used to look okay if you painted them right, but you've got far more options available to you know for basing. Vallejo do some really good texture paints/gels. The crushed grass one looks especially good on miniature bases.

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>>54658522
This is multiple thin brush coats on black primer with a base paint, literally all you gotta do

>>54658876
kek

>>54658522
Besides obvious thin coats. Also make sure each layer is completely dry. Too often people put on a layer too early.
You can combat brush strokes by painting each layer perpendicular to the last. Example paint down for first layer, then paint left to right, then up, then right to left, etc

>>54651188
Get some more color on the details (the tubing etc, eyes), clean up the red too, especially the rims of the cloak/hood

>>54658888

Joy. Anyone know of a gray primer that's compatible with Citadel paints? (I'm planning on running with them due to sheer ready availability-- there's two stores that sell them within walking distance.)

>>54659029
I know it's technically not a primer apparently, but I "prime" with Mechanicus Standard Grey spray, as seen >>54657516

>>54657006
Thumbnail looks like the "SHEEEEIIIT" guy.

...now I'm kind of tempted to proxy an ork warband with that and the "African Jaeger" as the mech.

>>54659104
You don't necessarily need a specific primer. I think /wip/ recommends Krylon and...whatever the other one was, don't remember. You can use Mechanicus Standard Grey too, like >>54659104
said, although it's not a real primer, just a regular base colour in a can. Apparently it works, but when in doubt prime first anyway.

>>54656071
Thank you! I'm up for tips or critiques if anyone's got them. I'm new to this, as stated.

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First 40k model in over 10 years. Unmitigated disaster. In no particular order:

1. Painting white (Vallejo) over white (Gesso) is hard to see, because they are both white. Some areas were over-painted, others were missed completely.
2. The depth/height of the panel-things makes them a pain.
3. The studs on the arrows makes them a pain.
4. Painting a dark metal over white is scary. Any mistake is going to take 2+ layers to cover.
5. Because of #1, I missed spots and left bare gesso. The rough texture combined with the wash makes it look like the paint is chipping.
6. The wash makes it painfully obvious were I missed bits of the arrows because of #4 and #5.

TL;DR: I'm switching to Extinction Angels scheme for the sake of easier painting.

>>54654803
Australia?

>>54656065
>>54656059
>>54656046
Tiny furniture is best furniture. Good job.

>>54658522
Look at some of the tutorials from the Gunpla/Plamo general on /toy/ and /m/. Most of the stuff they paint is large flat surfaces so avoiding brush strokes is paramount.

>>54659029
>Anyone know of a gray primer that's compatible with Citadel paints?
Any good acrylic primer will be compatible.

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I couldn't come up with a good colour to paint my Knight's leg hoses, given the armour is already black and the red cables meant green hoses would look like a Christmas Knight, so I eventually decided to have a vague go at a frost effect and dotted some Athonian Camoshade around to chemical it up a little. Does it look OK? I lack most types of skill, and I don't want people to mistake it for just a really bad attempt at painting white.

>>54659281
need to thin your paints especially with white

>>54659303
Not that guy, but I've noticed white is a bitch to thin properly, especially if it isn't fresh. Got any advice on that?
I have citadel paints only.

>>54659334
The trick I've found is to thin with water but also add in a bit of Medium to the mix to keep the white consistent. I only use Vallejo so I don't know the Citadel names but I usually go 1:1mix with water then add just a "drop" (usually I just dip the brush in and that's enough) of the Medium Thinner (I think it's Lahmian Medium in Citadel?).

Even then you'll still need to go for 2-3 thin coats. For minis who have white as most of the colour it's better to just use and airbrush or thinner than fuck about trying to get a consistent finish from the brush

>>54659295
Im going to be real with you anon, I looked at the picture before reading and the first thing I thought was 'dude needs to finish his base coat on those hoses' so take that how you will. I might say try something else.

>>54659334
If possible, prime white in the first place. Way easier than painting white over black. a tiny bit of acrylic medium might help to thin it a little bit in the pot, so it doesn't come out lumpy. Never tried that though, be warned. And shake your paint well. Really well.

>>54659295

It certainly doesn't look like a bad white job, but in some places it looks more like corrosion than frost-- maybe a little too *much* white? I'm not quite sure.

>>54658889
I personally like the new dread except for a couple things, like the missile pod on the top doesn't sit well with me, and I wish the legs were chunkier like the leviathan dread.

>>54659256
>>54659281

OK, will look up gray acrylic spray primers.

>>54657516
>day 67: the noble astartes still do not suspect me to be a humble guardsmen

>>54653796
try magenta or a beasty brown/orangey brown color

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>>54647618
My mom was going through some of my dad's stuff and found this airbrush.

Is it any good?

>>54659281
>Tiny furniture is best furniture. Good job.
Thanks! I'll try and have #3 ready in time for the next thread or the one after that. It's fiddly...

>>54659553
>>54657516
>Day 67: The small guardsman seems to be under the impression that he is one of our battle brothers. We have not the heart to discourage him.

>>54659634
Looks complete to me, give it a clean and look out for rust. Incidentally Suction feed airbrushes require a higher PSI than gravity feed, about 4-5 PSI more

>>54659553
>>54659689
This is actually a cute idea. The marines start to get protective of their new Guardsman Battle Brother, and the first time he kills a heretic of his own might they cheer for him.

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>tfw you finish a big batch of hand priming

Adderal is a blessed drug

Now my black legion are not the gray plastic legion

>>54659744
>hand priming
>a big batch
why tho

>>54659389
Yeah, that was what I was worried about. I'll do some other details for now then come back and look at them again and see if they work decently, don't want to look like I did the rest then just completely half-assed that bit.

>>54659411

Corrosion would also be kinda fine, it's Malinax and they aren't known for glorious looks, but I do see where you're coming from, especially from a few other angles. I'll cut it down a bit with more of the darker greys and washes in a bit, need to change my stuff out and clear my desk off a lot now.

>>54659689

Guardsman with grenade launcher against MEQ: 0.2 wounds frag, 0.17 wounds krak.
Marine with bolter against MEQ: 0.11 wounds normal 0.22 wounds Rapid Fire.

Given 8e's casualty management means the MEQs can tank for him, he's probably more useful than the Bolter Boys given higher utility against pretty much any target and more consistent range. I wonder if the Marines will start to feel a little outdone?

Hey wip, I need advices, what the best solution to stripe plastic mini ? I have 3 old rhinos with at least 2 or 3 layers of primer and want them to be as clean as possible.

>>54655968
try a razor saw, less likely to slice yr fingers of

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>Managed to collect an order just before closing time so I have all day tomorrow to paint
>It's raining

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Painted up some gladiators I got off ebay. Anyone know what company made them?

>>54659863
are they 1/72?

>>54659743
>Our little Brother slew his first traitor marine today!
>Granted, Brother Bors hit him with a salvo of bolter shells first.
>And Brother-Captain Pelleas had severed his limbs with his power sword... And curb stomped him when he twitched.
>But Brother Caracas swore he could still hear one of the traitor's hearts beating before our little brother shot him!

>>54655968
Could try freezing them. Cold makes the glue brittle, might be able to just pop them off if you give them a few hours.

>>54659879
>Wed
There the same scale as warhammer.

>>54659888
Well, fuck me. I already destroyed bases and cut them of. I will just make 32mm objective markers

>>54659780
I dont have any spray paint and even if i did i dont really have anywhere safe to do it

Like if i really had to i would figure something out but its not big enough a deal

I like how they turn out when i hand prime em right anyway

>>54654696
honestly the hand looks pretty bad.

like some sort of crab with a big claw and a small claw.

Crab marines.

>>54658493
Inks have greater translucency, and are generally better at tinting evenly when thinned compared to standard acrylics. Using normal paints to color metallics will make them proportionately less metallic.

The people here saying inks and washes are interchangeable are oversimplifying somewhat. Part of the problem is nomenclature- Vallejo inks have acrylic qualities and will dry on their own, but true artist inks require a fixative to stop them from becoming wet and running when painted over. Vallejo acrylic inks also differ from GW-style washes in that they are thicker/have a stronger tint out of the bottle. Additionally, GW washes have additives to break up their surface tension and let the wash flow into cracks more easily. Vallejo inks do not have this property out of the bottle, so it takes some additional care/skill or an additive to stop the wash from forming bathtub rings. More brightly colored washes work better on brighter colors- washing yellow over black obviously isn't going to do anything, washing yellow over white gives you a yellowy white.
>>54658358
I would say the advantages acrylic inks have is versatility- especially if you mix your own washes. The fact they can be used to wash, but washes can't be used to glaze quite as well lets you get a little more work out of one bottle. Comparing Vallejo to GW, you buy the ink and mediums separately where GW sells you the same color twice as a wash and a glaze. Convenience vs. versatility and control I guess. If you were asking more about specific uses for inks, VJ inks are great for glazing and glow effects. Paint an eye socket white and give it three light washes of ink and you got a very credible glowing gradient.

>>54658830
I'm so jelly of chapters with neat upgrade kit to slap on stuff. Also, I think you should try some checking and quartering on this dude cause I think it'd look sweet.

>>54654748
you should post a pic of the first guy you painted 3 days ago and the one you just done.

>>54655268
seems to be done with a orange glaze

>>54658830
you should hang a finely detailed banner between its legs. to match the scroll of your other dred.

>>54652914
Oh man, I remember your first one. Fast improvement. Keep it up.

>>54659883
>Yesterday our company encountered a traitor Legion's forward camp
>Our little Battle Brother was spotted by one of the Heretics in the middle of the battle and refereed to him as a 'manlet'
>Brother Bors took exception to this, and educated the fool using five bolter rounds to the face
>Our little Brother, managed to shoot one of the heretics in the knee long enough for Brother Carcas to rip out the traitor's spine
>We are very proud of our little Battle Brother

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Wip Typhus conversion and Primaris Apothecary.

I'm too poor to buy the GW apothecary, and I can't wait til September to buy Typhus.

>>54660082
>>54659883
>>54659743
Kek, enjoyed these a lot. I guess my practice mini is being written into my chapter's fluff. Does he have a name, or is it irrelevant, he's just their little battle brother?

>>54656046
>>54656059
>>54656065

Very good work.

>>54659863

Don't know about the company, but check out Arena Rex for really good gladiators miniatures.

>>54660124
Shouldn't the flies fly out from him, rather than in towards him?

>>54659877
that's a big helmet

>>54660219
Flies have homes too, anon

>>54660225
For you.

>>54660173
I like to imagine he has a very unimpressive name, like Lloyd, or Kevin, or Dale or something like that.

So /wip/, I'm a dummy and need a bit of help. I bought my first set and a friend of mine did as well; we're both going to paint for the first time this Friday and I told him I got everything set up but forgot about lack of primer until now. I have some big can of spray primer I used to practice with before and I think it was a brand that was recommended here - I'm on mobile and not at home so I don't have a picture but I think it was Rust-Oleum or something (could be wrong). Will this work fine or am I going to have to go down to my LGS and buy some of theirs? Also, how long does it take to dry enough to be painted? I'd like to try and get as much done as possible but don't want to ruin brushes/figures.

>>54660219
They live inside of him. Plus they looked weirder going out.

>>54660413
Rustoleum is fine, 24 hours and the primer will be fully set but I've painted over primer only an hour dry before with no problems

>>54660124
Why not use the Scion medical applicator gun? I used those for my Legion apothecaries, because fuck paying up the ass for apothecary kits.

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>>54660178
Thank you! Have a progress shot... currently sculpting on the metal bracing that'll cover up those ugly joins. The lid was a bugger and a half, I'll give a full report in the writeup.

>>54660003
Thanks a bunch anon

>>54653963
black around the chip followed by a bright metal inside the black. You can then have a streak of rust coming down from the chip if you want.
For your runes try a marker pen instead of painting them on.

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Just shaded the purple and gold on those warp-talons,it looks a bit brassy now what are some nice colours to highlight the gold?

>>54660979
>All the mistakes you dont notice until you take a enlarged picture

fucking kill me

>>54660979
>>54661054
It's always like that when you take a picture of 28mm stuff I find

>>54660979
If you're worried about the colour, do a layer of the original gold, except in the recesses. And shade more gently next time. Highlight with a paler gold (Liberator Gold?) or even a silver.

>>54660979
I remember your first model anon

good job learning how to thin paint

proud of U

>>54661106
what do you mean by shading more gently? Smaller brush or less Paint?

>>54661162
thanks, what first model are you on about tho?

>>54658434
How do you do the chains?

>>54661399
with chains

>>54661436
I meant more gluing them to stay in place or to keep the from moving when they're free hanging

>>54653227
I think the eyes and teeth are too healthy looking. Maybe make the skin slimy too, they look a little like rocks or sponges at the moment.

>>54661471
Your posts don't make sense

>How'd you do the chains and glue them in place?

By using chain and gluing them in place

>>54661245
That purple with gold trim chosen from the dark vengeance box

I think you posted it on here and 40kg a couple of times

Excuse me if i mistook you for the wrong person tho
Y'all just have the same color scheme

>>54661471
Super glue the links in the desired position

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What shade should i use for Crab Spawn? I wan't him to keep that clean crab look, but he needs depth.

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>>54661549
>but he needs depth.

>>54653963
all the writing looks like a dyslexic kid with a sharpie did it

Does anyone have that image with all the space marine chapters on it? I want to make my own chapter and I'd like some ideas of what colour combos I like.

>>54661744
http://orig02.deviantart.net/67be/f/2014/011/e/8/all_loyalists_space_marine_chapters_by_djnnayt-d71ihc6.jpg

Here you go anon

>>54661245
Less paint. I assume you used a wash? Either water it down (like 1:1) or target the wash only in the recesses, don't throw it over the entire area.

>>54661796
Thank you kind sir

>>54661549
>38,00YearsIntoTheFututreMrCrabsFeelsIt.jpg

>>54661549
oh yeah Mr Krabs

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>>54661526
You mean this bad boy?
I really should redo the base and finish the painting..

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I just finished these guys yesterday.

I'm contemplating on whether i should move away from GW paints and try using Vallejo, Reaper or Army painter paints.

>>54662360
I can vouch for the Vallejo stuff, they go on perfectly with no problems and have just about every shade you'd ever need (and mix incredibly well anyway).
Army Painter are okay but they are a little "chalky", I think they have an overly matte pigmentation which fucks up the colour. Never tried Reaper.

Anyway nice work on the goblins, they were my first (and only!) LotR figures so they have a special place in my heart

>>54662360
vallejo's good, reaper's a mixed bag but usually okay, I am not a fan of army painter

No point ditching GW though, the paints are solid even if the containers are shit.