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WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Thread replies: 356
Thread images: 91

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"should have more good title images saved" edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Archive 1.1.0.7.6.3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSCOaowF2UI


Previous Thread: 51387383
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Slow progress on the crew for the next raider. This way I can put off working on the sail racks, hate painting splinter rifles more than anything else in the range. It's the fucking barrel channels.
>>
fucked up on the previous thread link.

>>51387383
>>
Hey guys.

Can anybody throw some cool paint schemes at me?

Failing that what do you guys do when you just can't think of what colours you want to paint something?
>>
>>51416793
For what army, what theme?
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>>51416812
Opinions? Green stuff the inside too along the connections?
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I'm making a counts as Harker with a Cadian, flamer arms and the HWT Heavy Bolter and this thing is way too big. I want to cut it down by like 1/4 but this is my first conversion and I have no idea how to make such drastic cuts with an xacto knife.
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>>51416836
definitely looks better than without. overall the fact that the blocks are so large and aren't curved makes it look sorta school-project
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>>51416916
You're gonna want a razor saw
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>>51416805
Imperial Knight. Imperial aligned. Oversized and on the verge of tearing itself apart over succession from a High King who has been on his last legs for far too long. Acting regent pretty much does his job now but everything is falling down around his ears.

That's all I can give you for theme. Sorry.
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'Cronz n the hood

Managed to get up to this point in just over 2 weeks doing little bits here and there. Which is good for me since I've been collecting for 15 years and never had a fully painted army.
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Making some progress on the Termie Captain. Though I find myself lost on what to paint that fabric bit hanging between his legs. Don't know if I want to go with black or a more leathery colour. Also critiques would be nice.
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show me your Blood Bowl conversions, /tg/
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>>51416489
>tfw Painting Guide Mega is dead
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>>51416916
See if you can't get your hands on a space marine scout's heavy bolter. It's considerably smaller, and fits somewhat snugly on a cadian torso.
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Finished the orange bits on my ratmans.
Now to do the rest.
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>>51416935
Yea, first time using geeen stuff and my hirst moulds...kinda just experimenting.
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>>51417081
I might do that since I was gonna get a box of scouts for the regular bolters
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>>51417029
hoard useful pdfs the instant you come across them
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>>51417214
the blocks themselves look awesome. Need to get my hands on a few of those moulds. I think they make one (or a few) specifically for towers and cylindrical structures
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I'll post some guides ive saved in the hopes that someone makes a new archive
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>>51417412
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>>51417406
I wish I got more of the blocks moulds so I can make batches quickly. Aye they do, I got a few of the other ones, like cobble and roof shingles
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>>51417465
>>
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>>51417614
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>>51417852
Not a pdf but good otherwise
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apologies for potato camera, but what do you think of my Archon kitbash?

>archon legs
>dark elf sorceress torso
>splinter pistol from kabalite kit
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How "universal" is primer? A friend dug up a can of the stuff in his garage but he thinks it might be intended for wood. Is it better than no primer or do I need to head to home depot or something and get a can?

pic unrelated, a neat thing I found looking for necron color schemes
>>
>>51418542

Enamel and lacquer primers tend to be too thick. Acrylic and sandable primers are the best and if they are too thick you should test on something to be aware of that and spray more lightly knowing that it's thick.
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Making use of some of my moulds...make use of cobblestone or just leave it blank?
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>>51418686
Aaaaand forget pic like an idiot
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>>51418708
Maybe cobblestone on the interior
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>>51418762
I was thinking of laying balsa wood on the interior for flooring
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>>51418796
Just would make more sense for the nicer floor to be in the interior rather then outside
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Anyone know how to do Acolytes in power armor - I know I can't use space marines because its normal humans - but there seems to be no models I can use?
I was thinking about just caving and getting dark angel vets because of the robes
I also can't find good heads for normal acolytes
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>>51418823
True, cobblestone interior and just scattered debris around the outside seem better?
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I want to field 100+ FW renegade models in my army but I don't want to pay $200 for the torsos alone so I plan on buying Chinese. If you saw that many would you refuse to play me?
Also, would this conversion be legal to use?
>>
>>51419056
I wouldn't refuse. The conversion kits cost as much as the fucking infantry kits here. I'd go China too.
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>>51418856
it's a crime the DA vets kit is as old and shitty looking as it is - I really want to do some Guardians of the Covenant
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>>51419056
what are those models with the hoods?
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>>51419056
maybe if you didn't paint them. But if you did how the hell would I even know?
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Anything wrong with priming in my garage if it is too cold out? I have a good filter mask, but how much does temperature factor in?
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>>51419230
Everything would be painted, absolutely. The hobby aspect is what drives me, not actually playing the game. I would just but vanilla guardsmen and paint them red if it weren't the case. The only thing is I have those 100+ renegades, 3 earthshaker cannons, 3 Lemans, 6 rapier laser batteries and maximum extra crew for the artillery so a young adult in their mid 20's would be looking pretty shady with that expensive of a legitimate army, especially someone they hadn't seen before if I take my army to multiple LGS. If someone came up to me with a possibly full Chinese force dedicated to drawing out a game I'm not sure how I'd feel.
>>51419228
They were apparently made from a "mix of Cultists, Flagellants and some old Mordian heavy weapons crew"
>>51419104
They are astronomical in price and not really reflective of their point cost
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>>51419389
Cold leaves the finish shiny and heat leaves the finish fuzzy/grainy
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>>51417001
How does that even happen?
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Started on a termie captain, so far this scheme seems quick enough that I might actually have a fully painted army for the first time in years.

Though I'm not sure what to do with the hammer. Any suggestions?
>>
>>51419389
Humidity is your main issue. Temperature shouldn't be an issue.
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>>51419409
Well, they are Necrons. I am using chaos black.
>>
>won a johnny on ebay for 20 dollaroonies
im sorry to whoever bid for it but heck yes
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>>51419434
Shiny is bad. Shiny means the paint will have a difficult time adhering.
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>>51419430
So dry garage is good? Also how bad are the fumes? If I spray, then open the door after I am done, no fumes should remain correct? I just don't want a high concentration. My dogs kenle is in there.
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>>51419458
If it's good enough for your pet it's good enough to prime, regarding the weather.
If you prime, do so with the garage door ajar and then close it after some time to allow the models to dry correctly.
>>
>>51419453
>>51419430
>>51419434
>>51419587
>>51419409
Thanks for all the answers anons. You made a newbs life easier.
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>>51417081
It's what I did, excuse the crudeness and paint job it was my second conversion five years ago. All these nerds are due for a stripping.
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KROOOOOT

Painting some test spines for my killteam

yes I am that guy
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>>51419945
The first one looks the coolest.
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>>51420082
Bubbles
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>>51420194
>>51419945
these would look great with some patina on them kroot shooters

looks good though
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Decent idea or do you think adding horns to mark IV helms is stupid?
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A buddy of mine commissioned me to paint his Bloodbowl team. Just finished with the first model. I'm just waiting for the greenstuff I added to the base to dry, then I'll put the fake grass on.

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, but I feel like I still could have made it more "Nurgley."
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>>51420416
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>>51420413
In general no but those horns are absurdly large. They look ridiculous.
>>
>>51420413
Should be a lot smaller, tbqh. If you want a chaos-y look, use Raptor/Warp Talon heads.
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>>51420413
Go for it. I think it works.
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Started a test model for my next project
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>>51420496
They are tzangor horns. They around the size of alot of other chaos minis with horns. Wanted to make the heads look abit more chaosy for my chosen
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>>51420515
Really don't care for the look of those heads however.
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>>51420538
Do what >>51420515 said and grab a box or two of Raptors/raptor bits.
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>>51420434
add some yellow paint to nurgles rot Technical and get in there around some of the boils or those unloved areas under the right arm or seeping from the holes in his armor to give him some mucus/pus love. Doing a light wash over those solid red intrails might be a good idea too.
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>>51420538
they look fine, if you put some extra bits there so they look more...natural. Obviously cant just have a bead of greenstuff sticking them to the helmet.

you could also just use the horns from the raptor kit and discard the helmets.
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>>51420535
I love it anon! I plan on getting some Chaos Dorfs soon too, tell me how you did that so far!
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>>51420591
Yeah was going to blend them in abit more. I could also cut these horns closer to the top to make them smaller.
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>>51419056

I wouldn't play you but it would have nothing to do with recasts
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Done for the night. Decided to go with the black skirt (or whatever its called.)
>>
>>51420665
What's the reason? The style of play that my army has?
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>>51420761
it works anon, once you clean it up. what colour will the cape be?
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>>51419430
It rarely falls below 80% humidity where I live. Will that be a big problem and if so how do I deal with it?
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>>51420850
Still have not decided. Was thinking have the inside be black (for easy sake) and the outside white. The box art has the inside of his cape tan and the outside black. Would probably look best on this model as well. I am really open to suggestions though seeing as this cape should really stand out seeing as I am gonna be starring at the back of him for all these games.
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>>51419945
Make the green one have purple spines and then name them Donatello, Michaelangelo, Leonardo, and Rafael.

And put pizza boxes on their bases.
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>>51420942
needs a tau field reporter in a yellow jumpsuit following them round as well.
Classic Hrud master optional
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>>51420928
Ideally you want 45% humidity.
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>>51419436
>won a johnny on ebay for 20 dollaroonies
>im sorry to whoever bid for it but heck yes

Was it this one?
>>
>>51421093
exactly that one yes
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>>51420761
>black skirt (or whatever its called.)

Pteruges.

Also, the big round thing on the shoulder is a "pauldron", the round thing that guards the knee on just about every mark of armour except the Mk VII is a "poleyn", and those ornamental shields Space Marines sometimes wear (Grey Knights are notorious for this) to cover the vulnerbale joint between the arm and the torso are called "besagews."
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>>51421093
I fairly new to /wip/ can someone explain the Johnny meme to me?
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>>51421175
>on just about every mark of armour except the Mk VII is a "poleyn"

Heh... Mk VI, I mean. Beekees have long greaves sans poleyns. Just about everybody else has them, even if they're not round like the Mk VII.
>>
>>51421180
It's an old rogue trader space marine mini who looks like he's listening to his bolter magazine. That's the extent of the joke.
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>>51421180
hes cute
>>
>>51421175
Thanks, would have never figured that out on my own.
>>
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>>51421180
>I fairly new to /wip/ can someone explain the Johnny meme to me?

Emperor's Teeth, anon, were you waiting for me to come in here?

Some clever anon grabbed this picture of the old "Brother Craig" model and made this meme image (pic related). It looks like he's receiving righteous wisdom from his bolt gun magazine, the same way Johnny on the cartoon show Ed, Edd, and Eddy talks to his wooden friend Plank.

In some of the really old Citadel adverts, da Studio Ladz gave the early Space Marines of the Aly Morrison era names. They famously picked the cast of the old Adam West Batman TV serial, so there is a Brother (Adam) West, Brother (Burt) Ward, Brother (Burgess) Meredith, and Brother (Yvonne) Craig, among others. When Citadel printed its blue catalogue in 1990, they renamed all the models according to purpose and armament - "Bolter 10", "Plasma Gun 2", "Bolt Pistol and Chainsword, etc. - so the whimsical names were forgotten.

Apparently, Brother Craig was forgotten, too. He's not in the blue catalogue, or any other Citadel catalogue that followed, so his part number is a complete mystery. He's hard - but not impossible - to find.
>>
>>51421332
>>51421260
>>51421248
Thank you for enlightening me.
>>
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>>51420413
Did 2 heads, anything special I should do to blend the horns in or am I in the right track?
realised I should use less green stuff at a time cause took abit more fiddling then I thought it would take.
>>
>>51420998
A robed hrud master! How could I forget!
>>
>>51421175
>tfw pauldron is basic as fuck since it's so widely use
>tfw proud of myself for googling pteruges for trying to describe leather tassel groin tabard bits in the past
>tfw I realize I've been using "kneepads" this entire time instead of poleyn

Fuck.
>>
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Not that good at painting, but I do have one finished miniature at long last.

Sicarian Infiltrator Princeps, leader of my Skitarii Kill Team, escaper of cycles of guild and gainener of Brouzoufs.

I used a clear acrylic base for the base because fuck making more work for myself. The rest of the team will have appropriately sized bases in the same acrylic as well.
>>
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>>51420194
bubs?
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>>51421720
Looks like a deer on the right tbqh famalam.
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>>51422189
>finished
>3/4 of the model is just flat black
You've only just begun.
>>
>>51422189
>finished

Anon...
>>
>>51422189
Nigga, you are going to color in the metallics, and you are going to color in the armor plates, and you are going to base him.
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>>51422270
Deer horns are pretty cool imo
>>
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>>51422189
Good lord, I know what I'm doing for my scheme once I get my Skitarii. Fantastic idea.
>>
>>51422519
>Your legs are broken

HAHA SKITARII LEGS!
>>
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>>51422295
>>51422301

Been coloring them in, the lighting is just shit and makes it all look flat black. The cloaks and cloth are a dark grey and only the armor is straight jet black. The metallics are deep bronze up to gold, gunmetal up to shining silver, and there's some yellow and black twisty cabling in places.

Still, I do suck at painting. What would you suggest to make it better overall and improve it?

>>51422339

Decided to go with a transparent acrylic base instead of a decorative one. Then their bases are appropriate to every base, rather than wondering why they brought grass, flower, and mud with them for a ship-ship boarding action mission.
>>
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>>51422571
>>
>>51422645
Maybe add another set of abit brighter highlights in certain special places like the corners and what not. Also can't tell if you highted the "face"
>>
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Currently working on Hive Fleet Leviathan Hive Tyrant with kitbashed TL Devourers with Brainleech Worms. This has probably been one of my favorite models to date. C&C? Aside from the shit background, that is.
>>
>>51422969

Probably should. I could highlight the gold with white around the corners, and maybe the black areas with light grey. I didn't highlight the face, so that's probably a problem.
>>
>>51423017
Face is one of the important areas to highlight as faces are generally first place you look at and is a focus point.
Loving the scheme though.
>>
>>51423243

It's by no means going to be impressive work, but as long as the scheme works and it's at least tabletop worthy then it's fine. I'd commission someone to do it justice but for even the few models in a Kill Team, it'd put me out of budget.
>>
>>51423458
Your painting isn't bad anon. Looks like you been thinning paints and the yellows itself looks pretty good. Keep it up man.
>>
Guys, I want to try and convert nobs into flashgitz; I want to make them hold 2 handed guns in an non-awkward way, and I want to save kombi-shootas for other nobs.

For this I need to put their default choppa-slugga hands(they'll make nice holding hands if I cut off slugga/choppa) at an angle. For this I'm assuming I'll need epoxy putty.

I've never tried working with one, could you share any advice beforehand. I'll probably cover shoulders with some kind of armour plates if I'll fuck up badly.
>>
>>51423614
Don't have the models handy, but would it looks completely out of scale if you use shoota arms from boys instead of converting the arms yourself?
You can still make them look bigger by putting shoulderplates and armor on the forearms or something, but if the scale discrepancy isn't that big that could be an easy way to save yourself some work and a few extra bits for the other nobs leading the regular boys.

Anyway, what exactly one would tell you depends on the kind of putty you use.
Milliput and Green Stuff are both two part air drying epoxy putties, one however can be thinned with water and behaves a lot like clay, while the other cures under water behaves a lot like chewing gum.

What are you working with?
>>
Test model for a tutorial on the Mancubus.

Hated painting this model, it's covered in large plates but none of them really mean anything. It leaves you in a shitty position where dry brushing flat surfaces is the best option.
>>
>>51423657
>Don't have the models handy, but would it looks completely out of scale if you use shoota arms from boys instead of converting the arms yourself?

I tried going the easier way by using shootaboy hands, they look short and it shows. It can't be fixed with shoulderpads I'm afraid, maybe you could use putty to add length, but at this point why not use nob default hands)

I'm using some russian 2 component epoxy putty called "modelight". I've seen people on forum comparing it to MagicSculpt if it helps. It can be washed off with soapy water and it takes 1,5 hour to set and 24 hours to become completely firm. I've read advices that you can cover your fingertips in water to smoother surface it after you are done with water.
>>
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Hey folks! Anyone have a guide or any tips how to do the highlights or drybrushing on the GW black dragon? I have sprayed it black as a base but have no clue how to proceed.

>TLDR I am not a clever man
>>
So I've always used a base color to help my layers, like using grey or Leadbelcher for my Runefang Steel, or Balthasar Gold or brown for my lighter golds.

Now I want to replace all my silver and golds with better ones, either from Vallejo or the new white lid GW ones. But then I realized, do I really need the base coat? Instead of buying two pots of gold and two pots of silver, can't I just buy the layer I'll use the most? I always cover the base color completely and never leave any showing.

Instead of doing Leadbelcher -> Runefang Steel or Leadbelcher Air -> Stormhost Silver, can't I just do two coats of Stormhost Silver for the same effect?
>>
>>51419414
What, not painting armies? Easy... get bored of the current one and start another.
>>
>>51417379
>>51417029
Could you share that PDF then?
>>
>>51424126
Dunkey said it best. Two thin coats (or more! as long as they are super thin!) are good enough to get a solid coat of paint. Yes using base colors helps, but thats why citadel HAS base colors, so that you can start with a decent foundation. If you need to stormhost over black primer, yeah four coats of stormhost will get you there, but so will a single layer of leadbelcher and then stormhost.

Throw all this out the window in case you are layering highlights cuz then you want all the paints forever.
>>
>>51417001
>>51424127

Put that foot down and finish the bases and then I'm proud of you Anon. Grab another project from that 15 years of gathering and follow your dreams
>>
>>51424073
What paints you using?
>>
>>51418856
Combine a box of scions with a box of Scouts, should do the trick
>>
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how far can you stretch one package of oyumaru?
>>
>>51424322
Define stretch.
>>
>"hur hur hur you guys are stupid wet palettes are only useful if you need to blend for hours"
>end up using a wet palette because it makes thinning and getting more paint easier
>"hur hur hur you guys are stupid why would you pay $12 for a high end kolinsky when a $6 midrange sable is plenty good enough compared to $1 low end brushes"
>end up using a $12 kolinsky sable after the $6 brush sheds half its hairs in a few months
>"hur hur hur you guys are stupid why would you use Vallejo paints just because they come in droppers, that means you can't use GW's official colors"
>end up eventually switching mostly to Vallejo and other dropper brands
>"hur hur hur you guys who still use Citadel colors and then transfer them to dropper bottles are stupid, why don't you just use a dropper brand"
>am now shopping for empty droppers and trying to decide whether to use pipettes or a funnel to transfer Citadel paint to droppers

Damnit past me, why are you such a retard? Just do things right the first time around.
>>
>>51424322
Vile xeno has corrupted holy machine's body! Quickly, bring it down with me, devoted servants of Omnissiah! bing the abomination by toppling it on it's back
>>
>>51424444
Quads for truth.
Let this anon be an example.

Also you forgot skub... I mean the masters brush cleaner paint brush soap.
>>
>>51417374
You know you can buy bitz online, right? You don't have to waste 90% of what you buy
>>
>>51424258
Citadel paints
>>
>>51424444
You dont need a funnel, you can pour them pretty easily, get some pipettes to get the rest out of the bottom of the bottle, though. Oh, and also get some agitators.
I use those dropper bottles:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-New-25-50-100PCS-Empty-Plastic-Squeezable-Dropper-Bottles-15ml-Hot-Eye-Liquid-Dropper-Bottle/32761738544.html
>>
>>51424557

I watched a video of some guy doing it with a funnel made from a piece of paper and he still spilled shit, although maybe it was because of the funnel that he spilled. What do you do, just carefully pour it straight into the dropper mouth and be patient and careful?
>>
>>51424378
Sorry, I meant how big of a surface area/pice of kit you could make a mold of with it.
>>
>>51424586
Yep, exactly like this. Works well even for washes and shit. Never spilled more than a few drops.
>>
>>51419396
>mid 20's
>expensive army
>shady

What?
>>
>>51424617
>"haha what kind of idiot spills their paint pots"
>half a pot of nuln oil spilled later
>>
>>51424619

If you are over 30 you wouldn't understand. I'm not him but I know what he's talking about. He's referring to young adults who got through college and maybe even post grad and are still getting turned down for jobs and living in places where rent is $1,000, $1,500, even $2,000 a month.
>>
>>51424698
>$2,000 a month.
200Sq flats?
>>
>>51424709

See, you know what I'm talking about. And it's a "downtown micro studio loft".
>>
>>51424668
I spilled a bottle of Necrotite Green across my old keyboard. Even after cleaning it up it still had that necromantic green glow to it.
>>
>>51424719
Oh wait, forgot how retardedly small sq feet are,
we get 100 sq metre homes for that rent here.

All for the low cost of a 20minute commute (and a 40% tax rate)
>>
Does Leadbelcher Air cover as good as regular Leadbelcher?
>>
Any tips for a greenstuff saddle on a reaper bones mini?
>>
>>51424444
You're still retarded because you think it's note worthy that you ignored all advice coming your way and continued to act like an idiot. Now you're an attention seeking idiot.

>>51424615
Depends on how thick you need the mold, it's a 3 dimensional thing so hard to give an exact size.

>>51424698
Don't you love the age old "I just got my student loan, so I went and bought a whole bunch of hobby shit to celebrate" thinking their job woes are the first in the line. It was the people in their late 30s now who got fucked first. Mass immigration opened 50 years ago. While it is worse today, it was still very bad 10 years ago when the problem first started to get noticed. This is why the men aged 35 and below are considered a lost generation by many.
>>
>>51419396
>so a young adult in their mid 20's would be looking pretty shady with that expensive of a legitimate army

m8
I'm 24 in my final year of uni, to my name I own a Warlord Titan, 3 Warhound titans, the cerastus battle line of knights (acheron, lancer, castigator, magera, styrix) the exalted court of house terryn (5 of whatever those knights are) and a random crusader on top of that, as well as a huge ravenwing, dark angel, deathwatch, tau and taghmata list. All the GW stuff is legit, the forgeworld is about a 50/50 split of legit and chinese.

To get to my point - I've never had a problem with anyone thinking im shady, the only thing that ever comes up is people tend not to believe me if I tell them what I own until I bring some along to paint/play with. I also let people use my models if they need some superheavies, or if the store wants to play a big ol apocolypse royal rumble with a titan legion. I wouldn't worry about what your oponent thinks, as long as you've put care and effort into your figures no one can tell or care.
>>
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Hi /wipg/, tabletop newfag here. I want to start playing 40k with a Space Marine army (color scheme in pic related), but I noticed people on WHTV use loads of different paints. My question is: is that really necessary to get a correct result? I mean, you need 18 paints to make an Ultramarine according to the fucker in OP's image, and suddenly that seems like a lot more money to invest than I expected.
How many paints would you use to obtain something correct (not Golden Demon worthy but not horrible either) with pic related? Any tips to save some money on paints?

Also, how to prime without a bomb? Is Abaddon Black/White Scar enough?

frenchfag, if that changes anything for things I could buy inb4 PAINT YOUR BANNERS WHITE
>>
>>51425031
btw I studied a bit the paints available, and was initially planning on buying Abaddon Black (primer + joints), Kantor Blue (first layer), Maccrage Blue (definitive color), White Scar (pauldrons), Leadbelcher (boltgun), maybe Nuln Oil as I heard some things about it here. Is Nuln oil enough or are different kind of shades necessary to get a good result?

I'll certainly invest in more paints as I go but I don't want to buy too much for now
>>
>>51424698
You're right. I'm 32. But I worked all through University and by doing that had a job lined up the moment I got out. Never understood all those 'professional students' thinking it's a good idea to do 3 or 4 classes a day and fuck around the rest of the time.

But anyway, back to /wip/. Didn't want to derail the thread, the post just kinda bothered me because it was so matter-of-fact about it.
>>
>>51425031
if you're just starting out, just grab the basic colors you need along with white and black (you can use these to lighten and darken your base colors). A shade is a must, and nuln oil is good enough to work for anything in the meanwhile

but unless you want your paints to easily rub off from playing with the models, a real primer is a must, since it gives the model a good surface for paint to cling to vs bare plastic
>>
>>51425031
The best money saving tip is don't buy GW hobby products period. You can get all the same stuff elsewhere for better value. You can get spray primer from hardware/auto stores, brushes and mediums from art stores and paints from a bunch of different brands.
>>
>>51425066
Just so you know, you can't prime with Abaddon Black. You should buy either Chaos Black spray or Imperial Primer, if you're set on using Citadel paints.
>>
>>51424527
I'm using the scout bodies as count in storm troopers.
>>
>>51425083
>>51425194
>>51425234
thanks for the advice. I'll try and get Vallejo paints as I heard a lot of good things about it on /tg/.
I won't be able to use spraycan in a while though, but I can apply primer with a brush too right?
>>
>>51425358
Imperial Primer if you're using GW, otherwise one of the Vallejo surface primers are very suitable for priming with a brush.
>>
>>51425358
i think vallejo has a brush on primer; never looked into it myself tho
>>
What brush range lasts the longest? I need to get new brushes and I bought my current ones last summer.
>>
>>51425382
It's an airbrush primer but works brushed on just as well.
>>
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>>51425382
>>
>>51425437
I've been painting with my W&N Series 7 brushes for a few years now. Also, before you rush and buy new ones, get brush soap/ conditioner like Masters. That is, if you're not averse to some snake oil.
>>
>>51425458
Thanks for the advice.
>>
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>>51422972
Looks sweeet tyranidanon, I'm keen to start painting my hive fleet as well, I don't know if they have a name but I wanna do my tyranids in broodlord colour scheme from Genestealer cult
>>
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>>51425512

Oh and if there is a store that has Revell near you, get a bottle of pic related. Works fucking wonders if you want to restore mistreated brushes. Easily cleans out gunked up ferrules.
>>
>>51424322
I got two packs of 6 pieces. Those 2 packs combined could not easily fit around a 120mm base. I hope that info helps.
>>
>>51425746
it doesn't have a hive name, it's the OG colour scheme from Space Hulk genestealers.

>>51425749
Is there ANYthing Revell does that's not best in it's field?
>>
>>51417001
Alright first all congrats on getting shit done on a project.
Second, go back and throw some highlights on them. Shit it's all metal, just dry brush some on there. If it only took you two weeks then you will get it done in no time, and really improve the look
>>
>>51426040
They have already been drybrushed with runefang steel. Plus I'm not going for an eavy metal tier army, just a fully painted table top standard.
>>
>>51426003
>Is there ANYthing Revell does that's not best in it's field?

Ya, kits...
>>
>>51425447
This shit...

I have the Ghost Grey primer, its a great primer, but holy shit it doesn't flow well through airbrushes
>>
>>51419396
>>51424619
I don't get it either. I'm in my mid 20s and have like 1k dollaroos (converted from my currency that is) to save or spend per month after all bills and rent. And my job only required like a year of education.
>>
>>51426122
Bad kits or just limited selection?
>>
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First of my Knights done
I used Agrax over Elysian Green, which i found is impossible to get a consistant coat when you water it down
But at least it looks filthy enough to go with Nurgle
>>
>>51426162
Go over that base again though!
>>
>>51426169
Yeah i will, i've found that the bigger bases, anything over 32mm, need at least 2 thick coats of Ironearth
But at least the colour is top notch
>>
>>51426162
Maybe pick up the leather and wood a bit.
>>
>>51426136

I started with revell kits back when I was a kid but also built a few not long ago to see how they would do for scratch building shit.

Most kits have less detail than other brands, same model, sometimes the sprues came damaged, and parts wouldn't fit together and leave huge gaps.
Yeah, there may be good kits, but in general I suppose other brands do a better job.
Also their brushes suck and the paints are nothing extraordinary.
>>
>>51426233
Will do once i get this m8s done
I want to get my army 90% TT ready and then while i wait for games, i can touch them up
>>
>>51425031
Any kind of primer, (GW, rustoleum, tamiya, it doesn't matter as long asis is a PRIMER however I would recommend white or grey for your colours), Caledor Sky for the base, Leadbelcher, Nuln oil, Balthasar gold, White Scar.

That is the bare minimum. It's only like$30 cad
>>
>>51426162
When going for a cracked effect, give some thought to what colour should be showing through the cracks, and apply that first. Because "bare plastic" is not the answer.

Highlighting is decidedly sparse. Also for black, paint a really dark grey instead, so you can still use pure black to shade.

But it'll do for tabletop.
>>
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>>51425031
Hi newfag,
Returning oldfag here. I was entered in golden demon under 16's in 1992

You need the following

-Primer

-Black
-White
-Red (Blood)
-Yellow (Sunburst)
-Blue
-Silver (Mithril)
-Gold
-And a good wash/tint is nice but not as essential as people make out.


Those paints listed above are enough to paint ANY single MODEL to DISPLAY/competition STANDARD provided you're willing to mix colours yourself.
The advantage of own all those colours you see in tutorials is consistency when painting an army. Trying to mix the same blue you mixed the night before for highlighting is a hassle especially when your reference (last nights highlighting) has dried and you're working with wet paint. Also mixing metallics can be unpredictable.
So there's your list of essentials. As a guy returning to the hobby, I am going to buy the army painters mega set (it's around 100 Euro and gives a great starting set if you're willing to dish out).
>>
>>51426181
Yeah, it looks pretty good if you ignore the base surface showing through. do something like >>51426347
or cover the base with something else first though, and it'll look much better. Might pick up one of those technicals for some extra detail here and there, how does it look on surfaces other than plain bases? I usually sculpt up stone slaps and such with super sculpey and glue on to my bases, and add some sand around it. Could be interesting to have some of that on the "stone" surface. how solid is it if you apply it before priming, and paint over it? Would it flake off?
>>
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>>51426484
This is how I do most of my bases (yeah I know my lightning is shitty and I only have a webcam, people always point that out in here!)
Do you think it'd be possible to add a "cracked" surface to stone slabs like that with the technical paints for a quick more interesting surface without having to sculpt too much detail on infantry bases? Also, do those mud ones look good if you paint over them? I always finish bases before priming/painting.
>>
>>51426431
>mithril

My nigga, god I miss the old citadel paints
>>
>>51426431
Add a good umber and ochre to that list as well. Those are very good colours to have on hand.
>>
>>51426484
It can be VERY flaky on the bigger bases, which might even need some touch ups every now and again

Might need to get some varnish desu
>>
>>51426670
Hm. I'd like to know how it ends up when putting it on first, priming after, and painting over it before buying any (got no FLGS here anymore, so have to order stuff online, and can't be arsed unless I really need something). I'll have to do some research on the internet.
>>
Any good sculptors around? I'd like to try out milliput again as I keep seeing people reccomend it, but from what I remembered from trying it out a few years back it was a pain in the ass to work with. When it got wet it instantly started watering down, making it hard to sculpt anything, and I ended up with shit all over my tools and any working area if I missed something while cleaning up. And the wet mess it made also stuck to my fingers and all over the place, under nails, etc etc. It wasn't very nice to work with at all, but I must have done something wrong as I see other sculptors discussing it quite often. Is it supposed to be sculpted dry?
I usually use water for super sculpey and vaseline for epoxies (GS, "brown stuff", etc). I'd like a good "inbetween"-putty, to add upp bulk to stuff that can't be baked in the oven. My usual process is basesculpt with super sculpey (using small amounts of gs on the armature first as the SS doesn't stick to it by itself), then a detail layer with GS. As soon as I need to stick something to a plastic base or add a plastic piece the SS obviously doesn't work anymore due to needing the oven.
>>
>>51426694
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uH5C6_TxPr8
>>
R8 my new archon kitbash

also, how the fuck do you do eyes? I have some fine tipped brushes but I can't get the point THAT tiny.
>>
>>51426900
IIrc, many do black eyes and then dot the corners white.
>>
>>51424497
>toppling it on it's back

The tortoise lays on its back, its belly baking in the hot sun, and beating its legs trying to turn itself over, but it can't - not without your help... but you're not helping.
>>
>>51427078
That's evolution.
>>
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>>51427105
>That's evolution.

You're not helping. Why is that, Leon?
>>
>>51427150
Because if the turtle is unable to flip itself over it's a replicant, just like the bumblebees that are too heavy to fly.
>>
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Started painting my khador army last night.
Only did the bases so far and it's my first time painting minis. I thinned the paint.

How are they looking so far mates?
>>
>>51427206
Polish
>>
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>>51427206
Fml
>>
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>>51427274
>>
>>51421175
Pls direct to a good source to learn more about armor parts if you have. Would love to read up on medieval armor in particular
>>
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>>51427292
Last one
>>
>>51427295
http://www.medievalwarfare.info/armour.htm
>>
>>51427274
God Warmachine minis are such shit
>>
>>51427206
You need to use primer first, retard. You can't just apply paint to metal or plastic.
>>
>>51427384
It's white primer ya dingus.
>>
>>51426124
What? I've used grey, black and red so far, no problem at all, with a little water/thinner mix added.
>>
>>51427274
>>51427292
>>51427301
M O L D L I N E S

O

L

D

L

I

N

E

S
>>
Asking again after consulting/hhg/

Coud I get away with using FW Sons of Horus models as a Luna Wolves army? I like their color scheme much more, but the models all have SoH iconography sculpted onto them. Besides that, though, I like the aesthetics of their armor and unique units.

Thoughts?
>>
>>51422219
No, that's Randy.

Learn to Trailer Park.
>>
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>>51427150
Because I'm also on my back.
>>
>>51424301
scounts and scions don't use power armor
>>
I have 9 Skitarii Vanguards to paint and their backpacks are boring me to death right now.

What do you guys watch/listen to while painting to get through boring parts of minis and generally staying entertained? Or do you paint in silence?
>>
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>Set up airbrush, want to prime Old Archaon on foot, the big bastard
>Grab my white bottle
>Weird it's very inside even though I shake it like crazy
>Spray it
>White is super thin, like almost transparent
>Not too bothered, I knew it was a bit shit, I planned on basecoating white afterwards anyway
>Grab the bottle to add some more in my airbrush
>Realise I have been spraying matte varnish on a bare metal model for 5 minutes

Well shit. At least I know for a fact that it's not shiny now. On that note, I'm going to buy myself some acetone.
>>
>>51425031
Careful frenchfag, Vallejo paints are called Prince August in France, so if you find that in a hobby store, that's what you're looking for.
>>
>>51428565
you just basically just primed the model with a matte varnish (the reason it's matte is because it leaves a slightly rough, non-reflective surface).
In theory it should act like a normal primer, it's designed to be durable stuff, so it should stay in place.
>>
>>51428652
Think I could paint on it? And airbrush white?
>>
>>51428749
It won't be as tough as a self-etching primer coat would be, but airbrush primer isn't self-etching to begin with, they just use a tougher than average resin.
In essence, your matte varnish should be a similar resin (ie. designed to be tough), and the surface won't be slick either, as it's a matte varnish.
So yes, I suspect that it would work just fine.

I know that Alclad actually makes a transparent primer, designed for clear lexan car bodies, this really shouldn't be too different.
And you can always strip it later if it doesn't hold up.
>>
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Slowly painting my first army. This mother fucker was a total headache. Any tips on how to improve for a noobie? The idea of highlights terrifies me but I plan on practicing on some smaller models forst
>>
>>51425746
Thanks! That'll look really cool. the_duncan actually just released a video on how to paint that color scheme this week.
>>
>>51421720
>Not filing down the horns at the proper angle so you can just use plastic glue to make a seamless transition.

Kinda goofed famalam.
>>
>>51429176
>first army
>improve
>for a noobie
Um...?
Like seriously this is pretty well done. I'd suggest filling in some blank areas on the base with rocks/detritus, and maybe working more wash into the recesses of the metal, and trying different shades of silver on neighboring parts.
>>
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Hey, what are the things called where you slip on sandpaper and use them for small/fine details? "Sanding sticks" was my first guess but I'm getting actual sticks coated in sandpaper - what I'm thinking of is more of pic related; the sandpaper doesn't exactly have to follow the contours and has some give to it since it's not backed by anything.
>>
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>>51429357
This is sort of what the shape would be; the black is the handle while red is the sandpaper. The middle is unsupported for curves etc. while the ends have points for getting into crevices.
>>
>>51428355

If you are worried about proportions, don't forget that the Sisters wear power armour to. Not all of it looks the same.
>>
>>51426124
>>51427452
No thinner, higher pressure (20-30 psi). Nothin' but net.
>>
>>51421720
Maybe a bit greenstuff heavy, but looks cool for word bearers
>>
>>51429402
I don't know what they're called, but I've seen Micromark carry them. See what they call them.
>>
>>51427206
I'm surprised you were able to find one of the older battle boxes.

As you've been made aware, there are mold lines present on your Juggernaut and Destroyer. These are the lines that look very out of place , such as the ones going vertically down the leg plating, or around the barrel of the Destroyer's Bombard. It would be a good idea to remove those with a file, or with a Xacto/hobby knife before priming, in the future. You can remove them now, and prime back over if you're feeling adventurous. Since you're just starting out, use it as a reminder to yourself though.
>>
How do I glue resin? I bought a spawn from kromlech but plastic glue doesnt work.
>>
>>51429253
Could filed greenstuff but other anons were telling me to do that. It doesn't look too terrible right? I been out of this hobby for awhile.
>>51429680
Yeah was trying to use least as I could but still needed some to hold them in place.
>>
>>51429402
>>51429891
http://www.micromark.com/micro-sanding-wand-set,7760.html
http://www.micromark.com/19-piece-flex-i-file-set,7129.html
The two closest things to what you're describing that I can find.
>>
>>51429711
>>51429980
Cool. Not quite what I was looking for (I'm not actually sure if it /exists/) but now I know about Micromark - they have a ton of stuff that looks useful in various ways. Thanks, Anon.
>>
>>51430022
If they don't exist, why not try to make them exist? Looks like y'got a CAD file for them or something, why not getting them 3d printed as prototypes and try adding in the notches in >>51429402 ?
>>
>>51430089
I wanted to try to save myself the trouble and print some existing ones, but now that it seems that what I want isn't actually a thing, I'm going to go make some right now. Will check back later tonight with prototypes.
>>
>Z Chinaman doesn't sell renegade torsos anymore
WHY I NEEDED MORE THAN 100
Am I seriously going to have to cast them myself?
>>
>>51430174
Feeling the pain amigo. Building some renegades myself and making do with chaos cultists and crummy conversions.

How would you go about casting your own resign parts, out of entirely legitimate and above-board curiosity?
>>
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>>51430174
Let me save you the trouble and show you what you need to get started.

http://a.co/cLQch1Y
>>
>>51430207
resin*

I guess you could resign too, if you were talking about facilitating the trade in counterfeit miniature bits. That would be terrible.
>>
>>51429962
Superglue
>>
>>51430174
Really? That sucks. I was planning on processing a bunch of my old cadians. Hopefully it is just a temporary thing.
>>
>>51430207
I just couldn't stomach using the Dark Vengeance cultists.. They're even going to be plague zombies so I'm kind of going above and beyond for 3 point models it seems.
>>51430218
I've actually done a good bit of recasting myself but the effort doesn't really produce numbers.
>>51430430
Honestly I feel like they either sold out or discontinued them because of high, high demand. This is only Zanchui Taobao that discontinued them, if you're able to find the Miranda Irene or CoolCastorNot catalogs on r/Yoyhammer Reddit that are recent I'd check those out. For some reason I can't open them.
>>
>>51429176
Starting with skitarii as your first army was brave because they have loads of fiddly bits. Props. Otherwise maybe do a grimier finish on the armour and shade the folds of the robes, unless looking stark bright is what you're going for.
>>
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>>51430660
I actually really like the designs of the cultists, I just wish they were made in a way that was pose-able and customisable rather than snap fitting together. It would be good to change out parts to make them a little more uniform, or give them all autoguns instead of alternating pistols and CCWs, because I really like their grungy post-apocalyptic vibe.
>>
>>51430849
The best idea would be to hack them apart and mix them with bits from flagellants and frostgrave cultists. But for Heretics & Renegades where you are going to field dozens, the vanilla ones with the limited pose count wouldn't cut it sadly.
>>
>>51430872
I mean, some CSM armies have upwards of 50. Heretics and Renegades have a slightly more professional vibe though so I know what you mean. I'm gonna do what I can with the ones I have for my cheap squads and do something else with my veterans and disciples.
>>
>>51426003

Their paints aren't the greatest.
>>
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>>51430849
>>51430872
I'm still trying to find "zombie" arms/legs.. I fear I'll never find what I'm looking for. Just grasping arms and staggered legs...
>>
>>51430977

Check the fantasy lines. They might have something.
>>
>>51430977
Damn i hated that DLC.

Also, long shot, but do recasters make Knarlocs at all? I dont want to go following the breadcrumbs to get ahold if one, just to say fuck it nvm
>>
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>>51430207
>>51430430
photo(DOT)163 (DOTCOM) (SLASH) coolcastornot (DOT)vip/#m =2&aid =278105 030&pid= 919966 7508

Thank christ, at $9 for 10 torsos it's not too bad. Still incredibly expensive when I need 70-105 but it's not FW prices.
>>
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>>51430977
What about mantic stuff? Their sci-fi zombies should be up for sale.
>>
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>>51431103
Zanchui chinaman has them. Go to r/Yoyhammer to find out how to order.
>>
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Well I think I'm gonna leave the cloak like this, that would be enough for the main body, barring final touch ups once it's all assembled. Now I'll start the head. I was thinking about painting it Palpatine style, due to corruption and all that.
>>
>>51431236
i love the subtly of the freehand work on the cloak. i hope to get that good one day!
>>
>>51420416
Noice m8, what model
>>
>>51431236
brettu gud my dude
>>
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>>51431236
Something like this.
>>
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>>51430849
Luckily I had a friend who does commisions just fucking GIVE me a around 2 torso's. Not enough arms but fuck it. My renegades are a mix of those fw torsos, cultist, vanilla guard, catachans, and conversion, just go wild man. Its the most counts as army out there for mass infantry troops
>>
>>51431236
>Not making a bitching helmeted Primarch

Even more so with Lorgar who has the face of an old man when he's supposed to be quite handsome and the one that physically ressembles the Emperor the most.
>>
>>51431447
Before he fell to chaos, that is.
>>
>>51431447
>implying you can spread the True Word through a helmet
>>
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Babies first freehand. How'd I do?
>>
>>51431480
>Not using your vox amplifier
For shame.
I'm just a huge fan of helmets, I hate faces. Even in vidya, or movies I prefer full helmets.
>>
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>>
>>51431571
Pretty sure the model has a big vox amplifier in front of his mouth but I could be mistaken.
I personally like Mr.Freeze, the primarch
>>
>>51431566
Nice to know that the Eldar Archon let his kid draw on his sails.
>>
>>51429409
should I use sisters as acolytes?
>>
>>51431198
Oh yippee, you are the all-time best, anon.

No converted Steeds of Slaanesh with Kroot Hound heads for this Gue'la!
>>
>>51431607
I was serious when I said babies first freehand.
>>
>>51431716
So you are literally a babby?
>>
>>51431582
>>51431566
Skulls are one of the most difficult things to freehand, you should have chosen a simpler one.
>>
>>51425774
>>51424922
Yeah it does. Thank you!
>>
>>51431183
I looked at the reviews for these kits and they kinda look bad.. God damn. Maybe I should just hold out on buying the arms/torsos until a new cadian kit is released and scrap the pure zombie look.
>>
>>51431566
it's godawful but you have to start somewhere
>>
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Has anyone used silicone molds like this with greenstuff or milliput?
>>
>>51432035
Yes, there's also a press mould epoxy that you heat in warm water and then make the mould. It's much easier as it's not multipart
>>
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Would any anons be able to tell me all the paints involved in this scheme that it doesn't mention, the gun mainly, and also I would be applying a nuln oil wash after the sotek green layer right? and then relayering with sotek green.
>>
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Did bunch more of these heads, gonna leave couple with no horns. Uses tzangor sword ends for the one on very left.
>>
>>51432132
looks liike ushanti bone for the gun
>>
>>51431566
>>51431582
I like it but I question whether it quite fits the dark eldar aesthetic. Please sort out those smudgy lines to make it starker and more imposing.
>>
>>51431236
I'm sure you've had tons of compliments, but seeing this miniature evolve has been incredible. Great work.
>>
>>51432345
The greenstuff looks like greenstuff, if you get my meaning. Try blending it into the helmet and horns rather than doing a fur look.
>>
General question.... is there a proper way to go about painting camo fatigues?

How do I shade and highlight when I have contrasting colors (white/black/light grey/dark grey urban camo, for example) all right next to each other blobbed around?
>>
>>51430977
Ask with dubs, thou shalt be answered with dubs.
>>51431088

This guy gets it. Look for ghouls or literally just zombies in whatever the fuck they're calling the Vampire Counts line nowadays. You can still get box sets from GW for fairly reasonable prices considering the amount of models you can get and there might well be a second hand/bitz market for them.
>>
>>51431447
Which helmet would you use?
>>
>>51432558
Sounds like you can just use a thinned Nuln wash on that, desu. Then just go back and highlight where needed with the appropriate colors. It's work, but that's cammies for ya.
>>
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I decided to paint all the characters in War of the Ring. Here's what I've got done (or close to done) so far. Far from my best work, lots of base color then washes in certain parts, as I felt to go all out on them would likely just bring out the flaws in the sculpts. I am rather proud of the White Tree on Boromir's shield (first real attempt at free hand) and Gollum's skin tone.
>>
>>51431151
When shopping for bits I count myself lucky when I'm paying less than a pound per part. Not sure what the exchange rate currently is (thanks brexit) but I'm pretty sure slightly under a dollar per part is amazing value. Sure, it's gonna hit you, but I'd mainly be worried about the shipping from chongland if I were you. Be sure to order in bulk if you do.
>>
>tfw finding the entire space hulk board game in a tupperware container in the basement filled with paint stripper
>stuff's been in there since summer
I am a terrible steward of my miniatures.
>>
>>51432556
So just sand it down instead of making it looked warped? I could do that.
>>
>>51432558
Might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTiwtwn9HM8

It's not digital, but pretty good desu.
>>
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Greetings from mr. Fish
>>
>>51432618
You're absolutely right. At minimum I'd pay $63 for 70 torsos and heads. That's pretty remarkable.
Surprisingly alot of recasters offer free shipping. I'd gladly pay for express but I don't think it's an option. Not to mention, if I were to spend the $300-$350 at one supplier I would get a BUNCH of freebies.
>>51432587
So, so close.
Really the only option I have for Fantasy are the ghouls and zombies as you'd mentioned but sadly they're ill fitting and are just old. Hate to say it but I think I'll have to give them the cadian treatment which is.. Disappointing.
>>
>>51432763
Looks really nice
>>
>>51432720
How bad is it, senpai?
>>
>>51432794
They're still not fucking stripped. Some of the primer is still clinging and I can't scrub it off. The plastic looks fine, though.
>>
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>>51432763
Well that's certainly a thing.
So is this!
>>
>>51432856
Back in it goes for half a year, then.
Uness it's white primer that shit stays forever.
>>
>>51432856
removing primer of plastic isnt really possible depending on the one you used and the method of stripping.

funnily enough the materials that survive the most destructive stripping agents (i.e. Metal) take the least effort to remove everything including primer with the "safest" of stripping agents.

Meanwhile we got resin which is and always will be a bitch. at. anything. ever.
>>
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Current progress on my raider, gotta do a bunch of clean up then im gonna do the crew.
Hows it cool so far? Specifically the edge highlighting, metals, and sail.
>>
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>>51432886
Meh, it seems to be fine. Mostly it's just discoloration as well as this odd film I can't seem to wash off ever. I figure once I reprime it it will be fine.

Never trading for a half painted miniature game in a math trade again. This was not worth the scrubbing.
>>
>>51432607
The one in the bottom right is a favorite of mine. Add a crest, from BoP for example sincz those are not attached to a helmet, and you could get a good look. Extra work on the eye-lenses to make them glinting gold, like two blazing golden braziers, as if Lorgar's power shined through them. He's the Golden One after all.
>>
>>51433045
It appears there's been an effect on the plastic.. I guess the Space Hulk plastic is a bit softer?
>>
>>51433082
I think that's the film. I can see it in the image, but not in person. Can't feel it when I rub my finger across it either.

Weird, though.
>>
>>51433051
Primarchs are huge. It would be weird for them to wear standard sized marine helmets.
>>
>>51432991
>Hows it cool so far
Hows it look so far i mean
>>
>>51433082
Dark Vengeance minis and my old Stealthsuits do the same. A thin, reddish layer tint that i can scrape off with my nail, but no amount of brushing takes off
>>
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>>51433152
Oh yeah silly me!

I even have this pic saved as an example of DG dread head used for Perturabo.
>>
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>>51430089
>>51429402
Well, I made one and it works. Now to refine the design... this one's a bit hard to put sandpaper into.
>>
>>51433457
That makes my dick iron.
>>
Starting this bad boy tomorrow, any tips? This will be the first hq unit ive done

You can delete your other two posts and you're welcome.
>>
>>51433832

I can't finish models for shit, so I guess you should get it ready for the table first, and after a few games touch up the rest.
>>
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>>51433341
>>51433142
What are you stripping with?
If you live in the states I 100% suggest this product. It used to be called Purple Power but I believe walmart bought the rights and rebranded it Super Clean. It will completely destroy your hands if you brush without gloves so it likely isn't safe for resin but I haven't come across any better for plastic or metal.
>>
>>51433897
That's the stuff I used. It's awful. It barely does anything. This was my second time trying it, and honestly I will never touch it again.
>>
>>51431151
Good luck getting ahold of CCoN atm, he's swamped with orders and won't reply most likely.

>>51431690

https://mega.nz/#F!hEUhGZAD!Mqx_Xc2wNqdnLwVMMvijxg
>>
>>51433897
That's really weird, I've tried everything else for both really old and newer models but there'd always be residuals. I'd have to use SuperClean if I tried other agents.
>>
>>51433974
meant for >>51433911

>>51433959
Is he? I've read pillpitt is drowning as well. Miranda?
>>
>>51433959
Acrobat can't read any of these, what do you use?
>>
>>51433959
Anon, you have just made this heretic's day.

Knarlocs are a big part of what got me into 40k to begin with, once i got into it and realized it was all Robits in Spess Classism, it was too late. Maybe now i will finally get some!
>>
>>51434007
I mean, you can try, but don't expect too much, as he's also running a new year promo (with shitloads of orders from his end of year sale still open....)

No info on MI though, as I didn't order there yet (fantasy range too small for me)
>>
>>51434050
Erm which don't work? I can check
>>
>>51433974
I haven't used any other chemical for my stripping attempts. Both times I've tried to strip paint I used Super Clean. Both times it ended up extremely poorly. If I accidentally leave some minis in stripper for 6 months and then pull it out and it takes me 3 hours of scrubbing at the sink to get ~95% of the primer off 10 minis then fuck it, it ain't working. The other time of using it was just as bad.
>>
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Boards are down and covered. Once dry I will sand it, fill gaps and the craters with watered down wood glue, and begin gritting it
>>
What are good dropper bottles that I can put my GW paints into? I didn't care at first until I started using some reaper paint I found at my local card shop.
>>
>>51434066
You're welcome brother. Yes, that's what I'm using recasters for mostly as well, stuff that's oop, I won't pay prices those fuckers on eBay and on different forums want... Fucking scalpers
>>
>>51434114
I'm using those

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32761738544.html
>>
>>51434091
>it ain't working
This is where you're wrong. It WAS working until the stripped paint diluted it. THEN it became warp matter that left a filmy residue on your minis.
>>51434082
All of them, some of which being Miranda weren't even recognized in format.
>>51434067
It's not pressing. Take as long as you need, I can't grab and paint a few legitimates in the meantime but if someone isn't going to reply to me for a month I'd rather not "waste" my time.
>>
>>51434158
>I can't
I can
>>51434125
I also appreciate that BFG is being casted.
>>
>>51434158
>>This is where you're wrong. It WAS working until the stripped paint diluted it. THEN it became warp matter that left a filmy residue on your minis.
No, the film is definitely remaining primer. The marines were primed red, and have the film on them, while the tyranids were primed black and came out perfectly clean. If the film was the chemical then it would be equal on both minis regardless of their primer, but that's not the case here.
>>
>>51434149
>removing the 'm.' breaks the page
Great.
>>
>>51434158
Miranda's file is an excel file, no wonder acrobat reader doenst work
>>
>>51434255
I'm being honest, this has happened to me before. I left skorne in tupperwear for almost a year and it was scummy, not because of the fact it was sitting there it was the fact that there was too much paint for the amount of stripping agent. Before the primer could be completely removed it became diluted. It makes sense for the scum to apply a sheen on the primer as it's what the paint can stick to.
>>
>>51434272
https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32761738544.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32761738544&productSubject=Brand-New-25-50-100PCS-Empty-Plastic-Squeezable-Dropper-Bottles-15ml-Hot-Eye-Liquid-Dropper-Bottle&spm=2114.13010608.0.0.RMsf4f
>>
>>51434303
Even the Acrobat files can't be read. I'll reinstall my reader but I'm not sure what the case would be if the problem persists.
>>
>>51434330
Fuck, just search for dropper bottle on ali
>>
>>51434334
Strange, all of them are working for me. Can email em to you if u want.
>>
>>51434158
Yeah I'd steer clear of CCON. His sales are great but I'm still waiting an order from November.
>>
>>51434370
It was my program but the offer stands for anyone else who'd like it I imagine
>>
>>51434350
>>51434330
That link actually works a lot better, thanks
>>
>>51434421
>November
Christ. Was the initial reply and order expedient?
>>
>>51432558
Best way to do it would be to use a wash after painting the pattern to do the shading.
Brown for woodland, sepia for desert and black for urban camo.
>>
>>51434535
I ordered at the beginning of November, after a reminder email he replied on the 22nday and I paid. No Chinese poison at my door yet. My last order from him took 29 days to get here so he must be swamped
>>
>>51434758
How much did you order? I'm wondering if there's priority
>>
>>51431103
>Damn i hated that DLC.
why would you have the best DLC?
>>
>>51434930
NV: OWB, LR, DM, HH
FO3: PL, OA, TP, MZ, BS

The definitive rankings
>>
>>51434817
About as much as last time. About $80 worth. Roughly the same number of models as well
>>
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>>51435036
>point lookout
>good
>>
>>51435059
>implying the absolute hardest enemies next to glowing ones weren't in PL
Legitimately the ONLY DLC that provided any kind of challenge. Not to mention it brings you back to core game's map to Dunwich.
>>
>>51435036
Rrrreally, you liked Dead Money over Honest Hearts?
>inb4 gb2 /v/
>>
>>51435096
ok first off youre kinda scraping the bottom of the barrel with fo3's dlcs as-is because lord knows that game was a shit show
mothership zeta was bad, just a big dick tease for something more but in the end was just a ticket to having a gigantic supply of caps
point lookout was bearable, only thing that saved it imho was the story. kinda cliched at times but i guess beth cant really do much better.
anchorage was fun, nice mix up from the usual, but in the end just gave you a game-breaking set of armour and the ability to use the damn thing.
broken steel was only good for the extension of the already awful main story ending. anything past the point where you wake up was lackluster.
just my two cents but hey.
fnv on the other hand, all of them play so differently its hard to rank them.
>>
>>51435156
The end of HH was the worst part. Just.. Running. The environment was great but Graham heightened my expectations. Fell flat on it's face
>>
>>51434149

Thanks.
>>
>>51422519
Please name your HQ Oskar-3.14-Storius.
>>
Im pretty new to painting and am slowly adding in techniques and stuff. I wanted to work on using washes. I found out on some website that you can make an okay wash by diluting acrylic pain a lot in water and then add a little bit of dish soap. And I decided to try it because im a college student without money.
So before using it I have put drops just on a paper plate. when it dries it has a dark ring and then a lightly shaded center to the drop. Does this mean I don't have enough dish soap, have too much, or is this method of home made washes just so unreliable that its not worth bothering with?
>>
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New thread at >>51435830
>>
>>51435548

Just by glaze medium or acrylic thinner. It costs as much as one paint.
>>
>>51422189
love the base. average painting but the scheme is excellent. unless you are going for Golden Daemon, it looks good to me....
Thread posts: 356
Thread images: 91


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