Red Army White Hell Edition
Get in here, post games, miniatures, questions, whatever you like.
List of mini providers:
List of Historical Tactical, Strategic, and Military Drill treatises:
/hwg/ Steam Group:
Games, Ospreys & References folders:
>Warhammer Ancient battles 2.0
>Advanced Squad Leader
>By Fire And Sword
>Modelling & painting guides
>Twilight 2000/2013 RPG
>Phoenix Command RPG
Desired scans :
Black Powder supplements
Rank and File supplements
Harpoon 3 & 4 supplements
Hail Caesar! Late Antiquity to Early Medieval Army List
Force on Force supplements
At Close Quarters
War and Conquest
7th January in military history:
1131 – Canute Lavard was murdered at Haraldsted, Denmark by his cousin Magnus, which led to civil war in Denmark.
1558 – France takes Calais, the last continental possession of England.
1601 – Robert, Earl of Essex, leads a revolt in London against Queen Elizabeth.
1761 – Battle at Panipat India: Afghan army beats Mahratten.
1918 – The Germans move 75,000 troops from the Eastern Front to the Western Front.
1919 – Montenegrin guerrilla fighters rebel against the planned annexation of Montenegro by Serbia, but fail.
1940 – Winter War: The Finnish 9th Division stops and completely destroys the overwhelming Soviet forces on the Raate-Suomussalmi road.
1942 – World War II: The siege of the Bataan Peninsula begins.
1945 – World War II: British General Bernard Montgomery holds a press conference in which he claims credit for victory in the Battle of the Bulge.
1948 – Kentucky Air National Guard pilot Thomas Mantell crashes while in pursuit of a supposed UFO.
1960 – The Polaris missile is test launched.
1976 – Third Cod War: RN frigate HMS Andromeda collides with Icelandic patrol boat Þór. Þór sustained a hole in its hull, while the Andromeda's hull was dented.
1979 – Third Indochina War: Cambodian–Vietnamese War: Phnom Penh falls to the advancing Vietnamese troops, driving out Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge.
1991 – Roger Lafontant, former leader of the Tonton Macoute in Haiti under François Duvalier, attempts a coup d'état, which ends in his arrest.
1993 – Bosnian War: The Bosnian Army executes a surprise attack on the village of Kravica in Srebrenica.
It is 76 years since the Battle of Raate Road, fought during the Winter War between the Soviet Union and Finland in January 1940, as a part of the Battle of Suomussalmi.
During the battle of Suomussalmi, the Finns cut the Raate road on December 11, 1939. The action blocked the second, southern supply route to the Soviet 163rd Rifle Division in the town of Suomussalmi. The Finns also cut the first, northern supply route on 13 December, and the Soviets were forced to open a new supply route through Lake Kiantajärvi. The 163rd Division was nearly surrounded and suffered major casualties in Suomussalmi. The situation was getting worse, and on 20 December the commander of the 163rd Division, Andrei Zelentsov, asked permission to retreat from Suomussalmi. In response, part of the 44th Division, the 1st Battalion of the 305th Infantry Regiment, and the 3rd Battalion of the 662nd Infantry Regiment, were sent to reinforce the 163rd Division troops near Suomussalmi. Zelentsov's concerns were not understood at Red Army headquarters, as the entire 44th Division was about to move along the Raate road.
Most military historians date the battle of the Raate road from 1 January to 7 January 1940. The Raate road was though a battlefield during the entire Winter War. Before the main battle against the 44th Division, the Finns fought retreat battles against a part of 163rd Division on the Raate road. Furthermore, some battles were fought on the east side, near the border, on the road during the rest of the Winter War.
At the start of the battle of Raate road, Siilasvuo's 9th Division had already destroyed the Russian 163rd Division. After that, it received orders to destroy the Soviet 44th Division, which was stopped on the road near Haukila, 12 kilometers from Suomussalmi. The Finnish 9th Division was split in four squadrons, each named after their commanders. The decisive battle was ordered to begin on January 5, 1940, 08:30.
The battles focused on Haukila, where most of the Soviet troops were located and where squadrons "Mandelin" and "Mäkiniemi" attacked. Squadron "Mäkiniemi" had started moving towards Haukila a few days before the official attack. At the same time, the fresh 3rd NKVD Border Guard Regiment was just arriving to assist the Soviet 44th Division. By the following morning, the Finnish troops held strong blocking positions reinforced with mines at several points in the midst of the Soviet column. During January 6, heavy fighting occurred all along the Raate road as the Finns continued to break up the enemy forces into smaller pieces. The Soviets attempted to overrun Finnish roadblocks with armor, losing numerous tanks in frontal attacks, but were unsuccessful. Finally, at 21:30, Alexei Vinogradov belatedly ordered his division to retreat back to the Soviet border.
The despairing Soviet troops began to escape north over Lake Kiantajärvi. Many soldiers froze to death without proper clothing or supply; one Finnish soldier said he saw Soviet soldiers in a frozen campsite and had to poke one in the eye with a stick to see if he was really dead. Remnants of Soviet units had already tried to escape to the east, but were blocked by squadron "Kari". Further in the east, squadron "Fagernäs" could not keep a strategic bridge under Finnish control. On January 7, squadron "Fagernäs" recaptured the bridge and before noon all Soviet resistance was suppressed. The mopping-up went on for two days, during which the Finns rounded up hundreds of starving, frozen Ukrainians. Other remnants of the 44th Division were forced to withdraw from the area, evading through the northern forests while under pursuit by the Finns, finally reaching the border in several small groups.
The Finns captured 4,822 rifles, 106 machine guns, 190 light machine guns, 71 artillery pieces, 29 anti-tank guns, 14 anti-tank rifles, 43 tanks, 10 armored cars, 260 trucks, 20 tractors, 2 cars and 1,170 horses.
402 Finns were killed in action; at least 7-9.000 Soviet soldiers died, with 1,300 taken prisoner.
The Soviet commander, Vinogradov, and two of his chief officers retreated in the middle of crucial battles. According to the Stavka report, this act had a fatal influence on morale. As they reached the Soviet lines four days later they were court-martialed, found guilty and sentenced to death; the executions were carried out immediately. The Stavka itself had made the crucial decisions to keep the 44th Division on the Raate Road after the 163rd had lost Suomussalmi village.
The Finns quickly buried the Soviet dead as the weather warmed during the early spring to reduce the risk of epidemics. Mass graves were marked on maps and were mounted with a cross or a pole. Later the maps disappeared. Around Easter, the Soviets made a request that they would like to gather the dead and bring them back home, but the Finns did not allow Soviet Army officials to cross the border but the Finns delivered 300 bodies from near the village of Raate to Soviet officials. After the Continuation War, the Soviets were not interested in their deceased. The Red Army occupied the Raate road shortly, gathered wartime junk but left the bodies alone. The fate of the Ukrainian Division remained unmentioned in Soviet historiography for decades.
alright..the Original Grognard is back with the start of another video series.....this series covering the Advanced Tobruk Series but this time focusing on armor
noob to wargaming here. Gonna be playing some Bolt Action
can anyone confirm if my painting method is okay or could be tweaked
1) Base model, apply some sort of texture like sand to the base
2) Spray on a primer coat (not sure if i should go with the dominant colour on the model or black)
3) Paint on base colours
4) Paint a lighter colour over high points on the model (highlighting? not sure how to do this well)
5) drybrush the ground texture
6) give the model a wash with an oil. (Do i need a different colour oil for each base colour?)
7) apply varnish to protect the paint job
8) apply static grass to the base
is that alright? so long as i paint "within the lines" it should look fine right?
Sounds pretty good to me. Make sure you never apply too much paint as to blot out details. more thin coats is better than less thick coats.
Also your highlights should be done after the wash, otherwise they'll get dulled by the wash
>wash again if desired
>Highlight again if desired
i heard vallejo has pretty good coverage and consistency and doesn't need to be diluted much
also should i be painting certain pieces on the sprue before i glue it together? it looks like it would be a pain to try and paint faces, arms and weapons once they're glued in place
Sounds pretty good, although:
>6) give the model a wash with an oil.
I wouldn't use oil paint washes but just a basic wash as sold by most paint manufacturers. They dry a lot more quickly, don't require complicated techniques and still look solid.
>(Do i need a different colour oil for each base colour?)
I'd pick up a brown was and a black wash.
Some colours look way better if you use one of those, some look better with the other. Many look fine after either.
>4) Paint a lighter colour over high points on the model (highlighting? not sure how to do this well)
First off, I'd paint my highlights after applying the wash, but that's personal preference.
There are several different techniques for highlighting, but the basic idea is to paint certain areas in brighter colours to further create the impression of depth. Personally, I mostly focus on raised edges and panel lines with that.
I'd recommend you look up some Youtube tutorials for the kinds of stuff you;d want to paint.
Yup, excellent brand. I mostly use their stuff these days, alongside whatever Citadel stuff I've still got lying around.
>Painting on the sprue
I personally don't; I assemble everything, then just paint it.
That also allows me to play with the minis before they're fully painted.
However, some people do prefer painting some stuff on the sprue or in sub-assemblies. Depends on what you're more comfortable with.
I bet Russia would have been steamrolled by Germany if they had.
> 2) Spray on a primer coat (not sure if i should go with the dominant colour on the model or black)
Don't forget the possibility of grey, grey primers tend to work quite well for a lot of colour schemes and are a nice midpoint between white and black.
>(not sure if i should go with the dominant colour on the model or black)
Depends on the army really and how you want to paint them.
lets say soviets with 100% of the fatigues in khaki: go and spray them khaki.
For something like SS with lots of mixed uniforms i would go for a grey or black primer instead.
>your points 4/5/6
Personally i do it the other way around:
After the base colors are applied, i do a wash.
It hasn't to be an oil wash btw, there are acrylic washes (no smell and you can clean your brush with water) available. Agrax Earthshade made by games workshop or Strong tone by Army painter to name two popular ones.
If you want to field your army quickly, you are done after that step.
If you want to put more effort in it, brighten up the colors (darkened by the wash at this point) with the original color and/or apply an edge highlight with a slightly brighter color. (you don't need to buy a 2nd color, mixing in a tiny amount of white works too).
And i suggest to apply the static gras before you apply the varnish. You want to have the gras fixed to the base too.
Just give it a try and post your WIP minis in here or within the /WIP/ thread, people are always willing to help if you struggle with single steps.
I dunno, Hitler wasn't keen on Slavs and there was the whole 'Lebensraum' idea.
Then again, maybe without Red Russia and the resultant anticommunist backlash, the Nazis wouldn't have got into power.
Hitler didn't care about slavs actually. There were some elements within the nsdap who did, but those were the minority. Huge parts of the eastern german (eastern and western prussia) population were at least partly slavs. There was even an ss general with slavic roots.
Lebensraum as described in "Mein Kampf" meant basically to get back what was "stolen" after WW1. Again, some hardliners within the nazi party saw this different and wanted to expand even further.
>it was just a few bad eggs
I want /his/ to leave
>who conspired to slaughter thousands of Slavs
did he "conspire" to slaughter them because they were slavs? Or because they were simply enemies in the war?
There is a difference here. Or would you say Rommel conspired to slaughter thousands of anglo-saxons because he fought against the 8th army in africa?
Besides your flawed logic there, if there was a general (can we agree that this is a fairly high rank at least?) we have to assume that there were at least some other lower ranking slavs too. Apparently the SS (i.e. Himmler, a guy who loved to micromanage things) had no problem with a slav being general.
How about you deliver some proof that "the Nazis" (they all were identical in their thinking apparently) were anti-slavic. Maybe a page from mein kampf?
>Nazis invade the Soviet Union
>20 million people die
Do massive piles of dead slavs count as evidence?
Maybe the siege of Leningrad - where the stated objective was the total inhalation of it's population?
Maybe the repeated massacres at Babi Yar, where first the Jews, and then later everyone else were murdered and thrown in a ravine?
Here's a typed, hand-illustrated submarine wargame from 1990, called ProbSub! (exclamation mark theirs). I have no idea which one of you guys would want to play this, but I know someone out there is truly that grog. It can't be too obscure because it has a BGG page, albeit one of the emptiest I've seen. Still, someone's asking $20 for it.
Damn straight. Really well-represented in wargaming too.
I see you've already been assisted by our capable team, but you might like to also take a look at our modelling & painting folder if you haven't already.
Jeez ASLAnon you leave us hanging. When do we get to the scenario! I was all set for some hot tank-on-tank action, you tease.
>>Nazis invade the Soviet Union
Again, did they invade because of "kill all slavs" or maybe because of territorial or political reasons?
You are painting a pretty simple picture here mate.
>"After the defeat of Soviet Russia there can be no interest in the continued existence of this large urban center. [...] Following the city's encirclement, requests for surrender negotiations shall be denied, since the problem of relocating and feeding the population cannot and should not be solved by us. In this war for our very existence, we can have no interest in maintaining even a part of this very large urban population."
Adolf Hitler's actual directive to Army Group North HQ in September of 1941 is pretty clear about it
It's all of the above - they wanted territory, the destruction of the communist regime, and the eradication of the slavic peoples who threatened their 'pure aryan bloodlines'.
Even if it was not their initial priority, mass murder of slavs certainly moved right on up the list as the invasion progressed.
Hitler wanted to dominate Russia. It wasn't as much about the actual people as dominating the production. With the production of Russia, he would have a sure foothold in the world. Of course he looked down on people that weren't aryan, but I doubt he would be turning down any Ukrainian beauties who happened to be courtesans in Berlin.
How much of the specific death orders and orders for mass executions came directly from Hitler, I'm not sure, but the majority of the killing was done by the logistics guys. The people killed were more of a nuisance, they didn't fit the Nazi idea of norm so they sent them away and used them for forced labor. Once you have people in camps under guard any minor order can be blown out of proportion by the local garrison and turned into a mass execution. Its more than just Hitler, but the entire ideas of europe at that time. We need only look at slavery in america to see similar world views, and while that was some time before hitler, those kind of feelings are inherent in most humans, until educated on the specific race.
There were nazi Narties in america, all over the place, it was only a political movement. The Third Reich became something entirely different (although would end up defining nazism): A bureaucracy-led disaster in a whirlwind of prejudice and nationalist ferver.
Hitler was a man of strategy and domination, I dont believe so much he just wanted to blindly murder everyone. If he could have all the jews and slavs working for him building tanks and aircraft, I think he would be happy. The liquidation of ghettos and camps seemed more of a logistical solution to freeing up resources. Unfortunate for those killed, but not really Hitlers personal total goal.
>mass murder of slavs certainly moved right on up the list as the invasion progressed.
yeah, but not because of "kill all slavs because they are slavs" but rather because of
>since the problem of relocating and feeding the population cannot and should not be solved by us
Which period? I don't think there are many at that scale set prior to 1914, there's usually no more than 20 ships per side in classic age-of-sail clashes. Harpoon would probably work at that level, with enough vessels. There's that massive WW2 Pacific one ASLAnon plays, the name escapes me right now. Usually naval wargames focus on ship-to-ship, strategic stuff is mainly hex and counter. We do have the redone version of the Fleet series wargames, which are some seriously strategic-scale modern naval action (see link)
Well, it's finally happened, someone got the Armata out in 6mm.
Gamecraft miniatures of all people, known mostly for terrain and sci-fi. As of posting this they have 30 packs of 5 in stock, which I think is more than the amount of T-14s that actually exist currently so if you want to engage in a bit of sci-fi and field modern russians with more than T-72 and T-90 variants for armour:
That game apparently had some odd mechanics, I've just been looking it up. It was designed by none other than Fred T Jane, founder of the famous publishing house. In the background on the big table you can see the actual 'battle' taking place with ship models and measuring rods. But when a hit was scored, the guys at the side table in front would randomly pick up one of those paddles and whack it down on a sheet of paper representing the ship (you can see all this on the table in front of them). The paddles had a random series of pins inserted in them, and the location of the 'hit' on the ship silhouette could be fatal, or a complete miss. This would be reported back to the main table, who would reflect the results on their map.
You can actually buy a copy of his original rules, the History of Wargaming Project has reprinted them.
Can we talk about great battles of the civil war here? Union player here am I fucked?
It was very close, yesterday
I thought for sure, they would break
But this attack, that I have planned
A massive strike across open land
In the center, they will break
But plan it well, everything's at stake
We'll hit 'em hard, not a silent gun
Before the Infantry's begun
NEA used to demos for Leviathans before it sank, there's a pic of him somewhere dressed in uniform. It's pretty impressive.
Victory at Sea is fast, but can be a bit gamey because of it's criticals system. Covers WWII and Age of Dreadnaughts.
GHQIII is a bit more simulationist, but still plays fast once you're familiar with the tables, I'm told.
Grand Fleets is a pretty cool WWI and interwar game that's hex based and simulationist.
Ship Blows Up is a fast playing /tg/ homebrew that is Age of Dreadnaughts.
The folder has a fair number of Age of Sail type stuff, but none that I've played personally.
I know that stuff for Ancients exist, but I'm not familiar with any myself.
In addition to >>44626018 anon's excellent list, there's also Harpoon, which is (in)famous for its detail and density.
I think it's also used to train actual naval officers in some capacity, or at least used to be.
What are you guys working on?
Personally, I'm working on some BMPs after mostly finishing a few T-72As earlier tonight.
Up next is a pair of Hind-Ds.
Are there any nice (an possibly non-standard) camo schemes you guys would recommend for mid-1980s western Europe?
French in the Foreground, WIP Austrians in the background.
post pictures of your stuff!
What I should stop playing Doom for right now is some infantry and T-55AM2s.
Problem is I've realised I don't like the green I've done (or rather I have found a better method)... but I've done too many models in it to strip and re-do it all.
As for camo, I'm not sure it existed much in the mid '80s for pact forces. But this would be an example of something ok I beleive, just breaking up the lighter green with a darker green.
Lighting isn't great at the moment, but here's what I've been working on today.
That's a quartet of T-72As which only need decals, 5 BMP lower hulls with 4 BMP-2 and 1 BMP-1 upper hulls and turrets which also need decals and a pair of Hinds (without their rotors) basecoated.
All of this is 15mm Battlefront stuff, plastics from their new Team Yankee range. Excellent kits, go together really well and paint up nicely.
One particular thing about the BMP kit is notable:
You get all the bits you need to assemble both BMP-1 and BMP-2 upper hulls and they can be swapped out quite easily, even if you don't magnetise it.
I've currently got the five remaining hulls plus turrets (4 BMP-1, 1 BMP-2) a bit further down my line of priorities. Hinds and more T-72s first.
Maybe some other stuff like 1/350 scale jet fighters or 1/1800 scale WW2 warships instead. It'll depend on what I feel like painting.
>Jeez ASLAnon you leave us hanging. When do we get to the scenario! I was all set for some hot tank-on-tank action, you tease.
give me a day or 2 maybe. Got my ASL club on saturday..so might get it in tonight or tommorow....maybe sunday...
>Union player here am I fucked?
>only 2 blue stacks on map
>about 3 dozen grey ones
I think the answer is "yes"
I know, my wife bought me a copy a couple of years ago, along with a first print copy of his first ship book.
I guess if you think a chubby nerd in an ill-fitting uniform does anything like justice to the Hochseeflotte...
>I guess if you think a chubby nerd in an ill-fitting uniform does anything like justice to the Hochseeflotte...
Eh, sure, why not. We're only pushing around toy soldiers after all.
I've only just noticed there's a light grey on the camo scheme for that tank.
Should have looked at the wheels sooner.
Bit of a painting question here. Due to scale I think you might be better to ask than wip. I just acquired my first 15mm soldiers, what's the best way to primer them? For the bigger stuff I'm used to doing I use a spray can. Does that still work at the smaller scale? Or is brush on primer better? An airbrush is out of the question at the moment.
No End In Sight
Force on Force
It is 101 years since the Battle of New Orleans, the final major and most one-sided battle of the War of 1812. American combatants, commanded by Major General Andrew Jackson, prevented the British Army, Royal Marines and a large Royal Navy fleet, commanded by Admiral Alexander Cochrane and General Edward Pakenham, from seizing New Orleans as a strategic tool to end the war by using it as a starting point for an occupation of the vast territory the United States had acquired from the Louisiana Purchase. The Treaty of Ghent was signed on December 24, 1814, and hostilities would continue in Louisiana, without knowing about and contrary to the Treaty, until January 18 when all of the British forces had retreated, finally putting an end to the Battle of New Orleans.
Hostilities commenced when Cochrane sent naval forces forward to sweep American gunboats from Lake Borgne on December 12. Attacking with 42 armed longboats, Cochrane overwhelmed Lieutenant Thomas Jones' force on the lake. With the lake open, Major General John Keane landed on Pea Island and established a British garrison. Pushing forward, Keane and 1,800 men reached the east bank of the Mississippi River on December 23 and encamped on the Villeré Plantation. Unwilling to tolerate British troop on American soil, Jackson sortied from the city that night.
Early that evening, he launched a three-pronged attack on Keane's camp. In a sharp fight, American forces inflicted 277 (46 killed) casualties while sustaining 213 (24 killed). Falling back after the battle, Jackson established a line along the Rodriguez Canal four miles south of the city at Chalmette. The American attack put the British off balance, causing them to delay their advance on the city. Using this time, Jackson's men began fortifying the canal, dubbing it "Line Jackson." Two days later, Pakenham arrived on the scene and was angered by the army's position opposite an increasingly strong fortification.
Though Pakenham initially wished to move the army through the Chef Menteur Pass to Lake Pontchartrain, he was convinced by his staff to move against Line Jackson as they believed the small American force could be easily defeated. Repelling British probing attacks on December 28, Jackson's men began constructing batteries along the line and on the west bank of the river. As Pakenham's main force arrived on January 1, an artillery duel began between the opposing forces. Though several American guns were disabled, Pakenham elected to delay his main attack.
For his main assault, Pakenham wished attack on both sides of the river. A force under Colonel William Thornton was to cross to the west bank, assault the American batteries, and turn their guns on Jackson's line. As this occurred, the main body of the army would attack Line Jackson with Major General Samuel Gibbs advancing on the right, with Keane to his left. A smaller force under Colonel Robert Rennie would move forward along the river. This plan quickly ran into problems as difficulties arose getting the boats to move Thornton's men from Lake Borne to the river.
As a result, Thornton was delayed in crossing on the night of January 7/8 and the current forced him to land further downstream than intended. Despite knowing that Thornton would not be in place to attack in concert with the army, Pakenham elected to move forward. Additional delays soon occurred when Lieutenant Colonel Thomas Mullens' 44th Irish Regiment, which was meant to lead Gibbs' attack and bridge the canal with ladders and fascines, could not be found in the morning fog. With dawn approaching, Pakenham ordered the attack to begin. While Gibbs and Rennie advanced, Keane was further delayed.
As his men moved onto the Chalmette plain, Pakenham hoped that the dense fog would provide some protection. This was soon dashed as the fog melted away under the morning sun. Seeing the British columns before their line, Jackson's men opened an intense artillery and rifle fire upon the enemy. Along the river, Rennie's men succeeded in taking a redoubt in front of the American lines. Storming inside, they were halted by fire from the main line and Rennie was shot dead. On the British right, Gibbs' column, under heavy fire, was approaching the ditch in front of the American lines but lacked the fascines to cross.
With his command falling apart, Gibbs was soon joined by Pakenham who led the wayward 44th Irish forward. Despite their arrival, the advance remained stalled and Pakenham was soon wounded in the arm. Seeing Gibbs' men faltering, Keane foolishly ordered the 93rd Highlanders to angle across the field to their aid. Absorbing fire from the Americans, the Highlanders soon lost their commander, Colonel Robert Dale. With his army collapsing, Pakenham ordered Major General John Lambert to lead the reserves forward. Moving to rally the Highlanders, he was struck in the thigh, and then mortally wounded in the spine.
The loss of Pakenham was soon followed by the death of Gibbs and the wounding of Keane. In a matter of minutes the entirety of British senior command on the field was down. Leaderless, British troops remained on the killing field. Pushing forward with the reserves, Lambert was met by the remnants of the attack columns as they fled towards the rear. Seeing the situation as hopeless, Lambert pulled back. The only success of the day came across the river where Thornton's command overwhelmed the American position. This too was surrendered though after Lambert learned that it would take 2,000 men to hold the west bank.
The victory cost Jackson around 13 killed, 58 wounded, and 30 captured for a total of 101. The British reported their losses as 291 killed, 1,262 wounded, and 484 captured/missing for a total of 2,037. A stunningly one-sided victory, the Battle of New Orleans was the signature American land victory of the war. In the wake of the defeat, Lambert and Cochrane withdrew after bombarding Fort St. Philip. Sailing to Mobile Bay, they captured Fort Bowyer in February and made preparations for attacking Mobile.
Before the attack could go forward, the British commanders learned that a peace treaty had been signed at Ghent, Belgium. In fact, the treaty had been signed on December 24, 1814, prior to the majority of the fighting at New Orleans. Though the United States Senate had yet to ratify the treaty, its terms stipulated that fighting should cease.
Pakenham was of course the Duke of Wellington's brother-in-law; many of the British casualties were Peninsula veterans. Americans believed that a powerful British fleet and army had sailed for New Orleans, and most expected the worst. The news of victory, one recalled, "came upon the country like a clap of thunder in the clear azure vault of the firmament, and traveled with electromagnetic velocity, throughout the confines of the land." The battle boosted the reputation of Andrew Jackson and helped to propel him ultimately to the White House.
How fun and historical accurate Osprey's Ronin is? i just bought all the miniatures packs and i want to test it with some non-wargamers friends.
Still working on a scenario pack for Based Ivan.
Accurate? Not sure. There's definitely no anime/wuxia influence. Nothing over the top. Some of Mufune's movie characters might be a bit much for it.
Fun? Yes. Its rules light, yet effective. Some frustration at how difficult it can be to kill a model, but still fun.
Though I see what you did there, it could be interesting. Dealing with modern surface conflict in a media-centric age where both sides have powerful political support.
May want to borrow from AK-47 Republic for the media effects on victory.
As it happens there have been several rulesets written about the Third Cod War in wargaming mags over the years. The gameplay is in both vessels trying to bully the other aside, without ramming or sinking it.
Had the Russian people never adopted the evil of Bolshevism, the National Socialists, would have had no reason to invade. Prejudice against Slavic peoples aside, it would have remained "non-active". Many, many Slavic peoples, from Croats to Ukrainians to even Russian volunteers/captured soldiers and others, fought in the Wehrmacht. Let's not forget the biggest reason why this very juvenile view of the National Socialists wanting to exterminate all Slavic peoples nonsense is indeed bullshit, were the Bulgarians, ardent allies of Germany. Were Slavs victims of Axis brutality at times? Of course.
You don't seem to understand how politics work at all. Germany invaded because needed the arable land in Ukraine and resources to become a super power on the continent, they didn't invade because Hitler thought Stalin was a evil stupid poo poo head. This is propaganda rulers use to make stupid peasants, go to war an die.
Want an example? The Poles weren't evil Bolsheviks, in fact they had a very credible record of anti-Bolshevism yet they had to give up their national sovereignty and accept the population transfers and reductions policies of the Riech.
As it was asked for me to get it out so quick
Part 2 of my ATS gameplay review covering the first turn of my ATS playthorugh of Pebbles in the Stream from the game Panther Line
>the National Socialists, would have had no reason to invade.
The point was Lebensraum and the assumption that Slavs were inferior. No matter what they did. Communism to the Nazi is simply an inferior product because it was produced by the Jew, the Slav. That the ideology actually has flaws simply supports their assessment, and that people feared communism was used to justify Nazi politics.
Some of you guys are alright, don't go to Flanders tomorrow
i come from /wip/ to spread the gospel of our patron, Saint Duncan of Rhodes:
This is a guide to painting a scifi soldier, but the principles are *exactly* the same for a WW2 soldier (except you might want to paint gun barrels a black or "gunmetal gray" rather than silver).
>getting the most from this video
Ignore the goofy colour-names and brush-size names (detail=small, standard=medium, large=large), this guide is partly a commercial, but it is still invaluable.
You probably don't need to paint as many stages/highlights as he does, just do
And you're set.
Some people swear by priming in the main colour of the mini, I have always just done black (except when I used to do white in the late 90s)
>6) wash with oil
If you have asked /wip/ for advice and they said "Nuln Oil" this is a black wash, not an "Oil". Basically, there are
>1) Washes (watery, semi-transparent paint, dries to a matte finish)
>2) Glazes (don't worry about these)
>3) Inks (like washes but less transparent and dries gloss; Army Painter "dip"/shade system is basically an ink, and will dry glossy, aka very shiny, requiring a matte varnish to dull)
I prefer washes because they are easier to control and paint over than inks, and I don't want to be forced to varnish straight away so I can come back to add more detail if I want to after playing a game or two, and I find it very difficult even with a matte varnish to totally stop the ink looking "wet" or shiny
I strongly advise you not to paint pieces on the sprue and then clip them off, because the clip-points will be unprimed plastic. Even if you cut them off and then paint over the plastic, the unprimed areas will take more layers to get an even colour, and be far more likely to rub off.
However, depending on the mini, keeping gun arms separate might be a good idea. Usually, if a mini is holding a gun or spear across the chest at a distance just far enough to be able to see the chest clearly when assembled, but too close to comfortably paint behind the weapon, I leave these arms off, prime them separately, finish the chest (and any other parts covered by the arms) entirely, basecoat the arms, glue them in place, then highlight the parts of the arms that are not against the chest (the "backs" dont need to be highlighted as they are rarely seen). If the arms are, say, holding two weapons, a pistol, handgrenade, or in any way not obscuring the chest, I just glue them on. Also, I always attach legs, torso, head, accessories (grenades, ammo bags, etc.) before painting. Painting all these components separately would be a huge pain.
I would point out that, for a beginner, it is perfectly acceptable to assemble the whole model and just not worry about fully painting behind a rifle crossing the chest, theres a lot of concerns with painting separate components, like making sure you dont prime the surfaces you're going to glue (they have to be covered with blutac/poster putty).
Also, in case you didn't already know, you need to clean the "flash" (mold-lines) off all the components with either a file or by "backscraping" with a craft/xacto knife, and it is a good idea to test-fit all components before assembly (ideally using blutac/poster putty to stick the components together temporarily so you can really pose the figure and make sure everything fits nicely and that important details like the face are not obscured for when you're painting later).
Operation Archery: The Commandos and the Vaagso Raid 1941 (Osprey Raid 21)
Operation Archery, the raid on Vaagso and Maaloy in Norway on 27 December 1941, was the first true combined operation carried out by British forces involving the Army, Royal Navy and the Royal Air Force. The Islands of Vaagso and Maaloy on the Norwegian coast between Bergen and Trondheim, were selected because they offered a perfect opportunity to damage German installations and morale. Mountbatten, the new head of Combined Operations, hoped to eliminate the local garrison, destroy the fish oil factories and sink enemy shipping. The raiding force consisted of No. 3 Commando, two troops of No. 2 Commando, a medical detachment from No. 4 Commando and a Royal Norwegian Army detachment totalling 51 officers and 525 men. To support the amphibious raid was a flotilla of warships and low-level bomb attacks by the RAF. The raid was launched on Christmas Day 1941, taking the German defenders entirely by surprise. German resistance was stiff, however, and a fierce firefight ensued. Relive the nail-biting action of one of the great raids of World War II in this exciting book, packed with maps and photographs.
This is a Rebel thread now.
million people die
Almost as many as stalin intentionally murdered by starvation
Guess the bolshies hated slavs too...
>Russian émigrés and defectors from the Soviet Union formed the Russian Liberation Army or fought as Hilfswillige (approximately another 800,000 to 1,000,000 voluntary assistants) within German units of the Wehrmacht primarily on the Eastern Front. Non-Russians from the Soviet Union formed the Ostlegionen (literally "Eastern Legions"). These units were all commanded by General Ernst August Köstring (1876−1953) and represented about five percent of the forces under the OKH.
>Wikipedia doesn't real when I disagree with what it says
>those photos are probably fabrications
Noob-anon who asked about painting before here
I'm overwhelmed and grateful for all the help offered to me in this thread.
I was kinda expecting to come back to this thread with 30 replies telling me I'm a faggot or that enamel is master-race or some crap.
Thank you all so much. See you on the battlefield ;3
I'm making a game whose aesthetics draw from the entire period from the Napoleonic Wars and the Spanish Civil War, so pretty much anything between those periods will work for one faction or another.
Old Glory would be perfect for ACW, Colonial and WW1, and they're even based in the States. Irregular Miniatures do some great collections from the same periods but they're British.
I have always found it sweet and a little curious that, when Lincoln's pockets were searched after his death, a Confederate $5 bill was found neatly folded in his wallet. It's a testament to his particular sense of humour; some say he jokingly carried it to be "prepared for all contingencies"'; others say he liked to prank - or dare I say "troll" - people by tipping them with Confederate money. But apparently he acquired it in Richmond on his visit only a few weeks before. Personally I think he kept it as a souvenir; his own modest, personal, very Lincolnesque war trophy.
My monthly ASL get together
I lost again.
'Shanghai in Flames'. I was the chinese defender.
was doing pretty good and would have won until I got a horrid string of bad rolls in one turn and lost 3 squads in a single blow.....they were taken prisoner....i did manage to free them a couple turns later but was to late to get them back to help defend the building i needed to.
and one of the guys dice towers...bitches love dice towers.....
>'Shanghai in Flames'. I was the chinese defender.
Shamefur display ASLAnon
Honorbril ancestors much displeased
Choosing the Chinese over Mighty Katana Empire Of Much Gloriousness was the shameful part, anon.
it sort of depends where you are. I'm not expert on 1700s ship travel, but I can tell you that it was faster to sail from Ancient Rome to Alexandria than the other way round by a significant margin.
If this has any relevance to your question?
There are a hell of a lot of variables in play here. During the AWI to took a troopship about two months to cross the Atlantic, all going well. A slave vessel on the Middle Passage could sometimes take six months. It was faster to travel east because of the prevailing winds; it took Ben Franklin four weeks to sail to France, and four months to sail back. It took Villeneuve and his fleet two months to sail from France to the Caribbean. The convict "First Fleet" took seven months to sail from England to Australia.
I'm trying to figure out average times for the major ports of the 1700s. It's surprisingly hard to find any info on how long it took to get places, even accounting for the wide disparity.
I think you will struggle. It isn't like today, you can't know what speed anything is travelling at because your engine is unpredictable.
Currently if I want to drive from Birmingham to London the car I choose has the least impact on my journey time. But in a sailing vessel it makes a huge difference, a large trading vessel, a sloop and a first rate can all expect to take different amounts of time, and that's not accounting for storms and other weather effects. Hell that trading vessel will take different amounts of time depending on how heavy it's cargo is.
Are there specific points you are trying to look at? No matter what you might not get closer than approximates like '3-4 weeks' '2 months'.
I'm only concerned with warships, for one. And I'm looking at the major ports of the world. I know it's a big task, but even approximates would help.
I'm designing a wargame and I'm trying to work out what time scale to use and what my map needs to look like based on travel time, so pieces move around accurately. I am going to have some events that can slow or increase transit, but to do that, I need a time. even if it's weeks. For example, you the player could decide to send 6 ships of the line and two frigates to Jamaica, then to India. And I need SOMETHING for that.
Foundry have a fair bit of home guard stuff, I think Warlord also do a set but it's much more expensive.
That particular set are actually 1/32 models from a company called Relish, but as anon notes there are two separate Foundry and Warlord sets. That Foundry Home Guard line is superb, there are some great multi-purpose WW2 civvie minis in that.
I can't find the link right now, but there's a great series of pics of a huge VBCW game in action, with the Walmington Lads and Jones' milk truck in the thick of it.
I'd kinda like to run a three-player (or two players plus referee) game where a german pilot is shot down over Britain and two rival home guard platoons (think Walmington-on-Sea and Eastgate) compete to see who can capture him first.
Objectives for the German player would obviously be E&E. Could set the game at night for extra shenanigans.
A lot of fucking work has gone into it
Eh, probably - pragmaticism demands it and barring ideologicals rising to power on either side there was simply more reason for Russians and Germans to work together against the West and its Eastern European proxies than for them to fight each other, at least for a time.
Mind - if we still get Hitler, I suspect any democratic or militaristic regime in Russia would've eventually had to put its foot down. Guy was a hazard, whatever you think his game plan really was.
The Bolsheviks didn't hate anyone. Not as official doctrine anyway. They just also didn't think that being innocent of any real crimes was reason enough for someone to not be killed. A fairly common viewpoint in the 20th century.
I don't see how the fact that there were Russians fighting on the German side proves anything though. Some did, for various reasons, from "I don't want to be a PoW" through "I am a Nazi at heart myself" to "screw it, I hate Stalin more than I hate Hitler and this way we'll free Russia from one". Many others didn't. The bulk of the White leadership did not. Some did but kept their actual cooperation, built on the last of the options I mention here, to a minimum.
Time to put together some 1/350 scale MiG-29s.
After re-reading the old Planes&Mercs threads, I might pick up Airwar C21 for some more games in the near future.
If I do, I'll post battle reports if possible.
Doing 52mm in style
>the old Planes&Mercs threads,
Man they were some good times. The Lotsastuff collection originally came about when someone asked me to upload a few Ospreys to Megaupload, the modern African wars ones IIRC. They're like an ancestor of /hwg/. I've always felt the original "DM Steve" games were fiction - brilliantly well-written and researched fiction, but still not actual games - but their inspiration was immense.
>Man they were some good times.
Yeah. I want to believe in DM Steve.
Has anyone heard of Fury on the Lakes? It's small-ship war between the US and Canada on the Great Lakes. Looks neat from a skim of the rules - lots of hot MTB action, launches and armed barges, some minor planes and even more minor ground forces rules, q-ships, some simple-looking sub rules.
It does (for some reason) assume the confederates seceded successfully, possibly to justify a weaker US, but that doesn't really affect things. There are also Fenian Privateer Flotillas with shitty boats and a fondness for boarding Canadian ships.
Scale is 1/600.
>Another theory is the possibility of small MTBs, being rather
elite, irregular and independent units as naval forces go, could result in these craft adopting some rather gaudy schemes much like WW1 aviators often did. The presence of submarines would also drive the use of the wildly colored dazzle schemes.
This guy knows how to write a ruleset.
And also is bringing back Black Lagoon longings.
As alternate historical wargaming scenarios go, this one seems pretty cool, if you can handwave away the CSA winning easily enough. Strong shades of Turtledove! Just the thing for the naval wargamer who wants Great Lakes action but doesn't want to go full War of 1812.
War Plan Crimson - the US War Office's hypothetical plan for invading Canada - focused around a static defence along the border, and a single offensive directed at Halifax. Once the eastern coast was secured, and Canada was cut off from the UK, then rolling them up in a general invasion. For their part, the Canadian planners envisioned a totally unrealistic series of grand offensives into the States, despite having nowhere near the logisitics or manpower to carry it out.
A number of wargamers has always been intrigued about the idea of a modern war in North America; SDI's 'Dixie' was created purely because they wanted to simulate a grand Barbarossa-style campaign in the US. Then of course there's WW3-hypothetical stuff like Invasion America.
Looking for some opinions on how to spray base coat all my Bolt Action British Infantry's uniforms. How do you think Leather Brown would turn out after a wash? Maybe something a bit darker?
It is 1,484 years since the Nika Riots, which were commerated in an /hwg/ exactly one year ago. An anon reworked Jim Wallman's 18th-century riot rules into an ancients version, and it deserves reposting.
The Russians sure had a certain fondness for putting tanks into the air back in the day, no?
so i noticed the warlord games doesn't have any models for a few of its BA lists
in particular i was looking at cavalry and/or alpini
would it be acceptable to just take standard fanteria and use green-stuff to model a feather? Did they wear it with helmets the same as bersaglieri or just the soft caps?
Ain't no Alpini going into battle without his feather, anon. Even if they have to wear helmets.
Some companies produce separate heads you could use. Check out Mirliton's range: http://www.mirliton.it/index.php?cName=continental-troops-alpini
They usually lose for everyone, but damn they look good doing it. Casuals always go on about the W-SS and their fancy uniforms; but if you ask me the Italians had the best, particularly the CCNN/MVSN with their black fez.
Also their women's branch, the Aldo Resega Brigade, had hands-down the best female uniform in WW2.
Currently reading through the most recent playtest version of Naval War, a WW2 naval wargame currently in development.
I might post some impressions and maybe even a solo batrep later today depending on how things work out in terms of available time.
>if you can handwave away the CSA winning easily enough
I think the CSA winning is stupid and them allying with the _Brits_ is even stupider, but it has basically zero effect. The Canadians have British help anyway. I really like smaller wars like this. It's a change from massive invasions, and it's an excuse to get the baby boats out.
Come on, you'd do it too if you could. It's basically a proto-Hind.
Please do, if you get a chance. What's the scale of it? What sort of rules style?
>Please do, if you get a chance.
Well, I finished my read-through a while ago, so I'll take a bit of time to do so now.
>What's the scale of it?
It's technically scale-independent, but I intend to play using 1/1800 ships and 1/900 aircraft markers, which (as far as I know) is what the developer does as well.
A default game would be played on a 120cm x 180cm (48"x72") table, like many wargames. SMaller playing fields seem viable for smaller engagements.
>What sort of rules style?
It's very much on the game end of the spectrum, but still retains a decent level of detail. Individual weapons and systems can be damaged in addition to a regular damage track which also has effects at certain points.
Each ship has a card on which its stats and damage are tracked.
Each side has 2-6 squadrons of vessels, which operate together. Ships can also operate solo, but that has some serious disadvantages.
There's a SAGA-like command board which has a selection of special orders a commander can use in addition to regular ship activations. The activation system itself is the core of the game and I really want to see it in action.
Continued in another post.
Don't think so, dark brown it seems like;
The PSC Khaki spray looks way to bright too me, and I'm concerned about the quality. Have you tried it yourself?
Tempted by Saga as a resource light tabletop game (I don't have the time and resources for FoW) . Am I right in thinking that the Crusades pdf is essentially a second edition of the rules?
/hwg/, what do you think is the best option for WW2 naval miniatures? How does the quality of Navwar compare to GHQ? The price of Navwar is very appealing, although the shipping/ordering process seems like it will be a hassle.
think one of my buddies has an issue with collecting ASL counters.....
Comrades! Thread is in danger, must deploy BMP to reinforce!
he has...quite the collection......
blame the player base. they go absolutely frelling ballistic if there is the slightest grammer inconsistency that its not worth MMP to deal with the hassle from it..so they have to spend FOREVER going over everything a dozen times over to make sure the crybaby player base doesnt have anything to complain about.
serious...some of the ASL player base are bigger bitches than GW fanbois......
its why MMP takes forever to get anything out
Just purchased 2 armies from baccus6mm (French and British Napoleonic) And was curious if anyone here had experiences with the company/figures and could tell me what i'm getting into?
I just finished 2 small armies, French and Austrian Napoleonics.
Got my order wrong, sent an email to Peter from Baccus who altered it for me and sent the correct stuff.
These are only very small 'armies' in terms of figure count but they give the jist.
I have a brittish army of 15 brigades inf and 15 cav, bought them over the past 2 years, painting them is easy and fun. Peter is a nice fellar. My friend was sent a couple of wrong french grenadier stands, he emailed peter about it and received new ones completely free of charge. Other questions?
Gustav Sabac el Cher (10 March 1868 - 4 October 1934) was an African-German military musician in the Kingdom of Prussia.
Gustav's parents were August Sabac el Cher (a Nubian sheikh who served as chamber servant to Prince Albrecht) and his wife Anna, nee Jung. At 17 he became a musician in the chapel of the Brandenburg Fusilier Regiment nr35. In 1893 he moved into the Royal Academy of Music in Charlottenburg. In 1895 he was awarded the conductor post of the Grenadier Regiment "King Frederick III." (East Prussian nr1) in Königsberg. He soon became a well-known personality in the city, which is reflected in numerous newspaper articles. In 1901 he married a local teacher's daughter, and retired seven years later to become a Kapellmeister. During the First World War and the Weimar years he was regularly broadcast on radio as a conductor.
When he died his widow received telegrams from ex-Kaiser Wilhelm and his eldest son, who had served with Gustav in the 1st East Prussians. She followed him six months later and was buried alongside him in Berlin. Their eldest son Horst (1908-1943) died as a medic in the Caucasus, their younger son Herbert (1903-1963) survived the war; his descendants today live in Stuttgart.
Bolt Action 2nd edition and Vietnam are pretty much all but confirmed now.
I can't say I except the system to be appropriate for Vietnam since that game can't do asymmetric warfare for love nor money, but here's hoping they fix the many bullshit things of BA (like the line of sight rules) to make it far less incredibly mediocre.
Well, at least all the 1st ed books will be cheaper to get, as there's no fucking way I'll buy a second edition of it.
I can't remember the LoS rules of BA, but it's true LoS, right? I'm not fan of it either, but with some common sense it can be avoided.
And for 'nam, I'm settled with Force on Force. I cannot imagine BA with all the assault rifles in every squad...oh wait, yes I can, every ex-40k player's list is like that.
We've had a game last Saturday, and had fun. I'm not really on your side with "mediocre", I'd say generic, like every Warlord ruleset from Hail Caesar to Black Powder. You get a toolbox and you do whatever you want with it, with the expansions and campaign books giving the extra for the lazy people who don't or can't do research.
I don't think there's anything wrong with true LOS. It's not like there's a huge spectrum of available saves in Bolt Action either, it's soft or hard cover and that's it. Believe or not, Bolt Action is a pretty well balanced game as well, especially under the BoltAction.net Format.
BA is sadly littered with ex-40k WAAC power gaming faggots. Some of my buddies run full Vet'd, Assault Rifles only Platoons with of course 1 King Tiger and a Flamethrower Halftrack...so of course I just don't play against them.
Just popped on Amazon yesterday or today;
>BA is sadly littered with ex-40k WAAC power gaming faggots. Some of my buddies run full Vet'd, Assault Rifles only Platoons with of course 1 King Tiger and a Flamethrower Halftrack...so of course I just don't play against them.
Well, my clubmates are 40k players too, but thankfully they care about history enough not to run such lists. The aforementioned game on Saturday was a pretty relaxed one, although his list was anything but bad (7 SMGs close range can hurt).
>Believe or not, Bolt Action is a pretty well balanced game as well, especially under the BoltAction.net Format.
Agreed, we tried those rule modifications, and they went well - tho we gave LMGs +1 shot instead of making them 5 pts each (and I always rolled three dice to shoot with it as I come to remember), otherwise they are solid, and pretty much recommended. The only thing that needs some tweaking is artillery and mortars, some kind of templates, or aiming at a point instead of a unit would be nice.
It's in the WW2/Games folder
I think it is extremely well-designed. It's hard to make military-themed RPGs interesting for players because they're often just cogs in the machine. But Night Witches has a system where flying missions works in a real narrative sense, each time is different and it's actually fun to play rather than just a series of skill rolls or whatever. Character interaction is huge, most of the game actually takes place at the base with the PCs dealing with each other, their superiors, the politruk, and generally putting up with the shit these women dealt with. We had a good AAR some months back based on a single play session, it sounded pretty intense and they didn't even get in the planes. So yes I think it's good, mainly I'm just glad someone made a WW2 rpg that's original and meaningful rather than some Call of Duty clone.
We have the whole Battlefields series. There's the Anna Kharkova trilogy, following her career from the Night Witches to the Jet Age;
the Tankies, following a Geordie sergeant in the RTR through Normandy, the Reichswald and Korea;
Dear Billy, a sad and very dark story of a British nurse who murders Japanese POWs;
and Happy Valley, about an Australian Lancaster crew.
Plus some extras:
Rifle Brigade, Ennis' hilarious satire of WW2 comics;
Storming Paradise, an alternate history story about the invasion of Japan;
and The Night Owl, a stunningly beautiful comic also about the Night Witches.
Had a weird game of No End in Sight to... yesterday now.
Fairly even match up, had my Russians, 3 infantry squads rated at trained couple of T-80U and a T-80UK (opponent had one spare because of reasons). Opponent had Brits with a Challenger 2 (with full overarmour upgrades) and 3 infantry fireteams at Professional.
The tanks, illustrating why I don't like using armour in this scale of game, well, the T-80UK popped out from around a corner and had no targets to shoot at, the Chally 2 did the same, took a shot at it and missed. The T-80UK fired back and wrecked it, 1 crewman didn't make it out. A group of brit infantry fired whatever their rpg is at the T-80UK and wrecked it. The T-80U sat around being kinda scary or something, shot it's machinegun at a couple of dudes and put a round in a building that didn't do much.
Rest of the game lead to a whole 2 injured and 1 dead total as neither side put down much but a lot of suppressing fire going building to building..
I won by that fatality and the guy in the tank who failed to bail.
Nice. History sensitive or themed lists are the way to go. Regarding the rules, Beyond the Gates of Antares actually has really similar rules to the BA.net format, so hopefully we'll see those types of rules in the next Bolt Action edition
>I can't remember the LoS rules of BA, but it's true LoS, right? I'm not fan of it either, but with some common sense it can be avoided.
TLoS is exactly what I think of when I think of jungle and forest combat! It's not like trees are the worst fucking thing ever under such a system!
Looks like BV is finally back in stock and available for sale, with a 5$ price hike for some reason, but meh.
What kind of army are we talking about though and for what game?
This is an entire OOB for both Russia and Germany, which basically means almost every single unit they could ever field. So that's two entire armies. A small amount of Finnish units also included, as well as 24 scenarios, and 10 map boards. You also get the massive amount of admin counters that is needed to play the entire game to begin with.
Some of their other items are a bit more pricey for what you get, namely the single nation OOB modules that are still ~100, but I think modules like Beyond Valor or Rising Sun are pretty good deals.
Now compared to something like Bolt Action, 120$ gets you a small point army to dick around with.
My only problem with the price is that they still are just paper counters, not actual models. I guess it's worth it for the kind of people who like it, but for me it seems rather horrifying - for 120$, I can buy around two or three armies for BA in 1:72 to play with.
technically thats JUST to play with the germans and Russians. And have the Admn counters
dont forgett that you also need the main rulebook...and then every other expansion if you want to play something other than russians and germans,.
and you have to remember...MMP does NOT cater to the people just getting into the ASL hobby. they target the established ASL players....and they know they will get $120 for each copy that they publish. it WILL sell out.
and really...$120 isnt that far out of bounds for a game now days. I know a couple of Decision Games titles that run well over $150 and a couple that push $300. Hell there are euro games that are starting to push the $100 price tag
and lets not even talk about the Death Ride games-especially their Kursk game system where each part of the game is over $120 and there are....5 parts to the game
Well, I think now I love 1:72 even more. Especially how dirt cheap they go used, as I scored 16 boxes last week for tad more than 1 pound per box...
Fuck, hex-n-chit is expensive.
thats the thing..I dont remember any blank counters from my BV....but then again mine is 1st edition..so stuff may have been added in 2nd
Ill admit...I really want BV3. if for nothing else I need to update my counter...cant read the 1st edition stuff..fonts just to damn small.....but i can not afford a price tag of $120. Not while im still unemployeed
Cardboard is heavier and pricier than you think. It's even more expensive in small runs.
Counters look cool, man! And 1/72 plastic skirmish is the cheapest stuff around.
I just grabbed it from NWS for 74$ plus 16$ shipping which, at 90$ is still cheaper than anywhere else total.
BV3 previously had quite a few empty counters, some full empty, some empty on one side throughout the sheets so I'll be curious to see what they add.
Currently theorycrafting the plano storage for these so I can buy the right amount of planos.
>Ill admit...I really want BV3. if for nothing else I need to update my counter...cant read the 1st edition stuff..fonts just to damn small.....but i can not afford a price tag of $120. Not while im still unemployeed
They need to do a kickstarter for a version with 1" counters. Maybe 30-40mm counters. Blow the hexes up even larger than that so there's more space to play with, like the old deluxe thing.
>Currently theorycrafting the plano storage for these so I can buy the right amount of planos.
r a a c o
So much easy customisation, you can have the perfect storage solution with trays and racks and removable compartments and it travels well.
I would like it to have Combat Commander sized hexes, those are really nice to be able to lay out the stacks within.
Not paying the US prices for those. Not anytime soon at least.
Supposedly there are plano-cheap chinese knockoffs of Raacos we can get over here, but I'll probably hold off on those sorts of things until further down the road when I have several modules and people to play physical with.
>They need to do a kickstarter for a version with 1" counters. Maybe 30-40mm counters. Blow the hexes up even larger than that so there's more space to play with, like the old deluxe thing.
will never happen. And they have stated as much
to much of a financial investment to redo ALL the counters larger size and dp all 70+ geo boards let alone the historic modules in a larger hex size
The old Deluxe ASL was a pretty big hit....but after Hedgerow Hell and Streets of Fire it was decided to never do the larger hexes again. which is a pity cause I love the Deluxe sized hexes
HOWEVER last year Le Franc Tireur DID release a 3rd party product that had like 7 new deluxe mapboards in it and a ton of new scenarios, It was labeled #1 so there is hope for more follow up packs.
I have known guys that just went ahead and ran down to their local print shop and copied and printed the map boards up at bigger scale. Yes it costs a lot..but hey..a lot of ASL players have a lot of disposable income anyways.....
I've been interested in 15mm Napoleonics for a long while now, and had a ton of questions;
1st, I see there are a ton of different Napoleonic rules. Which does /tg/ prefer?
2nd, when it comes to basing infantry, cavalry and arty, what's the best/most common way?
>expansions and campaign books giving the extra for the lazy people who don't or can't do research
Hey, that's me
Whelp, I guess I'll stay with the cheap miniature option
>Hey, that's me
Sometimes me too, but after getting the occasional supplement, I grab some books on the topic and after a while I can spot some mistakes here and there.
Man, I fucking love historical wargaming. Doing research is fun.
it's nice this thread is so well looked after
Does anyone do card/wood blast markers, like ye olde EPIC's ones? I love the idea of using blast markers for stuff (so many games with varying amounts of suppression/disruption to track) but I just don't like the clear plastic counters. And as far as I remember, the bastards at GW cheaped out for BF:G And E:A with the markers and didn't make the stand-up ones again...
It's from SELWG 2015
>I was collared by someone from the Crawley Games Club and roped into playing their Stretcher Party game which was great fun. Each player controls a pair of stretcher bearers hurrying back across No-Mans-Land with an injured soldier...first one to the Aid Station wins. Of course there are lots of opportunities to block the other players with barbed wire or to have them shot by snipers or a crazed German pilot stuck in the middle of the table. The game looked like it was about to be won by a child sitting next to me who made it to within a hairsbreadth of the Aid Station...so naturally when my turn came up and I was able to inflict a couple of wounds on another player there was only one obvious target and he fell at the steps of the Hospital! It seemed the right thing to do, even if it did win me the 'Most Evil Player' award....especially as I then had the opportunity to kill off another player in the next turn! As I was now in front, but carrying a number of wounds, I knew I was pretty much doomed and sure enough the child's father was able to exact a family-revenge by taking me out. To the child's credit he didn't cry when I killed him off (I may have shed a quiet tear when it happened to me!)
I use cotton balls, painted and based on cardboard. They give a good effect.
We mostly use them when a tank bursts into flames and is destroyed. Burning wrecks are a big part of WW2 scenery, and can also have game implications when the lead T-34 starts blocking everyone else in once its destroyed. Bottle-necking becomes very real in tight enough terrain.
Pretty simple to make yourself, do 4 colors: yellow/orange/red/black in that order from bottom up. Use plenty of paint and paint downwards onto some newspaper, causing the paint to stick to it and forming a flat base once dry. we didn't even base ours, easier to stick to a tank with a soft cotton base.
I feel a little awkward about this, but since there's probably not a lot of people who even know about it, can I plug in a Twilight 2000 question in here?
I'm wondering about the power curve of character stats in Twilight 2000. The standard pointbuy is 32, but I'm wondering how much better players would be if they had 35 or even 40 points to work with instead.
which edition are we talking?
sounds like 2k13, but I'm just a bit too drunk to remember for sure
also, this thread is in autosage; ask again at the start of the next one and I should be able to answer
GDW's Twilight 2000 2.2e
Better hurry up with the new thread~
>Bolt Action 2nd edition
It's happening. Warlord Games is turning into Games Workshop.
The whole reason I went to Warlord after Warhammer was because i was sick of new editions being release every coupla years and new codexes just as often.
My opponent playing the Russians was using them as conscripts. Just needed a different color for easy distinction. We do have plenty of soviet infantry, including ski troops!
Bring on the NKL Aerosani minis in 1/72, would love see some of those on the table.
I got wrecked in this game, my opponent went for lots of air support, and I only had shitty mobile AA trucks. My heavy Tigers and StuG patrol were worn down by the overwhelming soviet air power, and in the end I just didn't have enough to deal with the T-34 and conscript spam.
Always take Flak-88s as the Germans! great air cover and anti tank, as well as light on points. (we play our homebrew 'ostfront', which is nearing 6 years old)