MTG casual general.

>How do you make a deck?
Take sixty cards and put them together.

>How do you organize the cards when picking out the desired ones?
A binder with card-holding pages.

>What kind of things should I keep in mind when adding in basic and special lands?
You usually want the same colours as your spells.

I'm helpful.

>>44548708
>How do you organize the cards when picking out the desired ones?
Since I just made my first deck to play against friends I don't think I know much. But what I did was organize all the cards I had into 6 rows. Each row was one of the color sections in the game (Blue, Black, Green, White, Red, Colorless) and then put each of these into columns of the same type of card. So I have all the colors in rows and then have all the creatures in one column, instants in the next one, enchantments in the next, sorceries, etc. I put the multicolored cards in a pile on the side since I would only be using 1 or 3 of them in any given deck. Then the tokens get their pile and the artifacts get their pile. The lands I put in a column by the corresponding color. All the special lands get lumped into one pile as well. After you do all this you get a nice grid of card piles you can sort through when deciding what goes into your deck.

>>44548764
>Take sixty cards
Uh. Most casual games sorta ignore this and are in the 65-80 range. Heck, once saw a dude with 150 in his deck because he was just shooting shit for fun.

>>44548824
A "Casual" deck doesn't have to mean that it's a shit deck anon.

Stick to 60

>>44548889
A deck is not shit by default if it's over 60 cards.

1. Pick a color. Just one. You might be able to get away with two. Don't go for three unless you know what you're doing.
2. Decide how you're going to win and how you're going to prevent the opponent from winning. The first question is most important, the second will not win you the game by itself.
3. Put in cards that help you achieve the stated objectives in 2. You should do your best to pick the best cards. Pack up to 4 multiples of any given card (unless you can't afford them).
4. The idea is that you should never be praying to draw that one card that will let you win, but that every card you draw will help you win. Go through your card list and ask yourself for each card: how does this card help me win? If it doesn't, take it out.
5. Your cards should be playable at different stages of the game. Yes, some are better early game and some are better late game, but you shouldn't only have late-game cards or only early-game cards. Some decks will be slower than others, and you need to decide how fast your deck will be. Look at mana cost here. A five or six mana card should get you vastly closer to winning the game. Your cards should also be playable in the sense that you can't play an Overrun if you don't have any creatures in play, and you can't play a creature enchantment if you don't have a creature to put it on.

You don't need special lands unless you're doing something special with them or are running more than one color. Basic lands are perfectly fine. Lands that can get you more than one kind of type of mana are useful only if you're running both of those types of mana, otherwise they will just be strictly worse than basic lands. Yeah, sure, you can use things like Terramorphic Expanse to "thin" your deck and get away with having less potential lands to draw, but every time you play one, you have one less mana to use, and that may not be worth it.

>>44548949
>unless you can't afford them
But I never try to buy specific cards. Booster packs only, except for a deck constructor box I got so I wouldn't have to worry about lands.

i'd buy a well reviewed intro/event deck and work my way around from there, removing and replacing cards that fit your playstyle.

>>44548919
Yes, it is. The more you have cards the less consistent your deck is. You increase your chances to be mana flooded/screwed while decreasing your chances to draw cards on curve.

That's a very basic concept to understand.

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Each pile is a deck in the works. I have a beasts deck that is monogreen, I added to the pile good beast creatures and enchantments or things that specifically assist beasts. Another pile was blue red artifacts, and another was black white clerics.

In my binder or those clear plastic sleeves I organize commons and uncommons into playsets (groups of four) so for example I can quickly grab a set of giant growth for my beasts deck.

In my card catalog or 5 ro card boxes I organize by color, then alphabetical. That helps when I dive into trying to find if I already have a specific card.

As for lands, I start out with too manyrather than too little, 24. If you have multicolored lands or lands with effects sure add them in. Too many and youll notice it slows down your deck but that comes with experience.

>>44548994
if you're going to buy booster packs only why not just go drafting every friday night.

Either you buy singles to save money, or buy boosters at FNM (and maybe profit). Buying boosters alone is not value for money.

>>44548708
>How do you make a deck?
-Have an idea for how you want to play. (How do you want to win?)
-Go through your cards and find all the cards you can that match the way you want to play. If you have multiple copies of these cards, even better. This will give you consistency.
-Try keeping your deck at 60 cards. (For kitchen table, going a little over this won't hurt too much).

The method I usually use for kitchen table decks is to find 9 unique spells that work with my style of play, and get four copies of each of them. From here, now that I have 36 spells, I pick out 24 lands to finish off the deck. That brings the total to 60 cards.

>How do you organize the cards when picking out the desired ones?
I go by mana cost, what it does (includes overall usefulness), and how much synergy they have with other cards in the deck. Not necessarily in that order, though. I kind of factor this stuff in simultaneously. When organizing the deck out, I put things in order of converted mana cost (CMC), with creature spells in one row and noncreature spells in another.

>What kind of things should I keep in mind when adding in basic and special lands?
-Be careful of having too many lands that enter tapped, as this will slow you down.
-Monocolored decks don't need that many nonbasic lands.
-The CMC of your spells will ultimately dictate how many lands you need. If your spells don't go over 3-4 CMC, you can get away with 18-22 lands instead of 24.

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>>44548994
In that case, just do your best to find out which card is better and helps you win more. This kind of comes with experience, but it's not always difficult. In pic related, which one should I put in my deck? What if I'm mono-green and am guaranteed that all my mana will be green? What if I also have Rancor in the deck?

First: pick one or more of the five (six) colors. (note: don't actually choose colorless until you're rather well versed in colorless mechanics)
Second: decide how you want to kill an enemy with that color (creature damage, spell damage, poison counters, milling, or some sort of instant victory effect are the usual culprits, but there are others)
Research cards in that color that do those things
slap em together.

>>44549081
Also, just to add to this:

-Two color decks are usually easier to construct. You can figure out how to cover one color's weaknesses by using another color. However, this doesn't mean both colors need to be used evenly. You can "main" one color and "splash" in another.
-If you want to go above the 60-card minimum, try keeping your lands around 40% of the total deck.

>>44549058
But I find so many cool cards and combinations! It's more fun to me to find a random assortment of 200 cards (not including a stack of land cards to fuel it) and find a way to make them work than spending $300 buying each and every card I'll use for one deck (which I'll probably get tired of eventually and then that $300 is down the drain). Also found a wooded foothills yesterday.

>>44549123
Garruk's companion. If you're mono-green and play this the second turn it'll get in a good 2-3 trample damage by the time the opponent can set down things better than 1/1.

>>44549150
I was like that too until I learned more about the cards in Magic. Now I never buy boosters unless I'm drafting. It's always a better idea to buy singles of cards that I want or need instead of buying a booster and getting a bunch of cards I don't want or don't need.

That's not to say I've never bought a booster box and opened all the packs, but I'm not very proud of having done that.

>>44548949

This is actually overall really solid advice. Pay attention to this man. It's worth clarifying that 'does this help me win' does not translate to 'does this eight drop kill my opponent three turns after I play it maybe'. You need cards that will start helping you win the turn you put them on the table.

The best piece of advice in his post, though is >you should never be praying to draw that one card that will let you win

This is one of the biggest mistakes new Magic players make.

>>44549201
But doesn't it get boring and painful when the wonder of the contents of a new card pack is overshadowed by the need "Oh nothing in here is the mythic rare I need for my $1,200 competitive deck" and "I've already memorized every single card released in this set from online".

>>44548708
casual exclusive player here
my LGS has a shelf with boxes full of commons and uncommons
I dig through a box until I see cards I like and if there's one I really like I will make the deck around it. I have made 4 decks this way. My favorites so far is a monogreen deck that focuses on rushing out Ulamog's Crusher using Krosan drover and mana dorks.

>>44549190
I can see a case for running Elvish Warrior if I'm running an Elf or Warrior deck, but I'd almost always choose Garruk's Companion over the other two.

Nissa's Chosen is better than Elvish Warrior unless you want things in your graveyard, too.

>>44549260
It doesn't take long to get to that point. Once you have a few hundred cards just collecting dust, you get to be a little bit more picky. Thankfully, my decks don't cost that much, and I've never gone full autism over memorizing the set since I don't play competitively -- probably for that exact reason, actually. It's hard to win when even by the pre-release draft your opponents already know every card and have formulated all the good synergies because they sat for four nights pouring over spreadsheets.

Okay, if you're really new then here's the basic thing you need for creature selection

The power curve "baseline" is power/toughness being equal to mana cost. So a card that costs 2+green would be 3/3 with no abilities.
Those cards are shit. ONLY pick creatures that are above their cost, or have abilties that make them better in other ways.

As for non-basic lands, remember that "enters the battlefield tapped" is a HUGE downside, and it has to be amazing to make up for it.

>>44549487
Wait. Doesn't everything enter the battlefield tapped unless it has haste?

>>44548919
>>44548824
There is no rule stating you can only have 60 cards. You may not have LESS than 60 cards, but you can run more.

The reason nobody ever runs more than 60 is because every addition you make to your deck reduces its consistency, which makes it worse. It doesn't make it bad, but it DOES make it worse. Any good deck with 70 cards is a better deck with 60 cards.

>>44549592
No, not at all. Creatures have summoning sickness unless they have haste, but nothing normally enters tapped unless there is an effect that states otherwise.

Definitely get into drafting. Watch drafts on youtube and become well versed with the fundamentals of drafting. I built my inital collection by consistantly going 3-1 4-0 in drafts at the local store. Otherwise dont just by packs.
Support your local stores

>>44549592

No no, creatures get "summoning sickness" if you didn't control them at the start of you turn

Creatures with Summoning Sickness aren't tapped, they just CANNOT tap themselves, so they can't attack or use activated abilites with a tap symbol in the cost

>>44549724

obviously there's fringe stuff like Heritage Druid, and creatures with Vigilance still can't attack, but you'll learn that sort of stuff as you play

>How to build a deck
Find 9 spells that you like.
Get 4x of each of them.
Add lands to taste.

>>44548949
>>44548708
This guy has it.
To add to his genius post:
Consider what your deck wants to do:
a) Some decks wants to beat their opponent fast before they can get to their big spells.
b) Some decks want to stay alive and win with big spells.
c) some decks want to play cutesy combos with their regular speed cards. (this can be both infinite combos and enchantment/equipment based strategies with stuff that help eachother well)

If your deck is a) then you should keep back with adding big spells because your plan revolves around the game not getting there, also you should thin your mana base to around 19-22 lands so you dont lose too much tempo from drawing too many lands.
if your deck is b) you want to get a few good spells, but what you mostly want to do is to stay alive. That means stopping the faster decks than you. Cards like Pyroclasm, Wrath of God and counterspells, all that shit helps here.
if your deck is c) you want your cards to synergise well. And you want to be able to draw the cards that synergise well, so you will need some sort of scry, tutor, or draw effects.

Ideally decks can be all three types, but for casual decks you can focus mostly on one type.

>>44549641
>>44549724
Oh. Guess there was a mistranslation when my friend was teaching me and my friend how to play. Better go see the official rules.

>>44549925
http://media.wizards.com/2015/docs/MagicCompRules_20151113.txt

302.6. A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can’t attack unless it has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the “summoning sickness” rule.
There you go man

>>44549260
Just because you're buying singles doesn't mean you're building some thousand dollar deck. The most expensive deck I have is maybe 150 dollars, with most being being between 20 and 60. It's far cheaper to buy singles than it will ever be buying boosters.

I'll still buy a pack now and then to get a small cross section of a block or to see if any cards inspire me to put a deck together around them, but the bulk of that deck is still going to be built off of singles purchased separately.

Download any number of deck building programs and cruise the Gatherer card database for ideas. Click the random search a few times if you're looking for some sense of discovery.

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>>44548708
Christ I want a half decent coin flip deck.

I've really found it hard to make one that actually works due to no board presence under 4 cmc (besides molten birth).

Suggestions?

>>44550760
Have you tried using some Un-cards that aren't stupid?

>>44550760
If you can use the goblin bookie from unglued I think it is possible.

>>44550760
Something like:

Coin Flips Solving: 7
4 Goblin Bookie.
3 Krark's Thumb

Win-Con: 6
4 Goblin Firebomb
2 Chance Encounter

Lockdown: 4
4 Planar Chaos

Draw & Extra Turns 10
4 Stitch in Time
4 Fiery Gambit
2 Sorcerer's Strongbox

Misc: 2
2 Karplusan Minotaur

6 Counterspells (probably some forbids and what-not in here)

mana base: 25
2 Izzet Signet
1 Mana Crypt
1 Sol Ring
1 Mana Vault
6 Island
6 Mountains
4 Steam Vents
4 U/R Fetches

----
Perhaps even the Mogg Assassin could be useful in a creature heavy line up, and perhaps you need a Pyroclasm or 3 to deal with your opponents early threats.

>>44551374
>4 U/R Fetches
You monster.

>>44551374
Perhaps even add Ral Zarek.

wut you needs is four temple bells four pheldagriffs and 4 of any other group huggy card. a little pillow fort and you will make the games last forever! the blue players will hate you for making card advantage irrelevant. extra lulz if you can find a way to throw in 4 sires of insanity.

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>>44548824
>>44548919
>>44549600
There is one card that turns that wisdom on it's head somewhat. but even then a good deck will try to keep as small as possible.

>>44549487
>The power curve "baseline" is power/toughness being equal to mana cost. So a card that costs 2+green would be 3/3 with no abilities.
This baseline only works well up to 3cmc. It's still somewhat relevant at 4-5cmc, but after that creatures generally gain abilities rather than P/T.

>>44551374
If youre going to include 4 Scalding Tarns in a casual list, why dont you just post a vintage MUD list?

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>>44549123
>example
>not posting the 3/3 for GG

>>44554448
How the hell would that card even work in any non-joke deck?

>>44555198
Maybe because anon doesn't have that card and doesn't care enough to go online or to a FLGS and search/buy it?

>>44555226
it was printed more recently then the ones in his example, and thus more likely to just be hanging around

>>44555251
Given that a majority of the posters in this thread admit to never buying boosters and only buying singles I'd say here's a very good chance he doesn't just have 4 lying around.

>>44549693
mfing this.
don't just buy boosters, draft with them. I just got back into playing mtg after 11 years with the release of battle for zendikar. I watched online and grand Prix 's drafts intensely, got some courage and went to my local stores. I won three of six I attended and got a p nice pool now (got one expedition lol)

>>44549693
What's a draft?

>>44551374
Close to something I have/had

>4 Stitch in Time
Two is hard to deal with, four Would be crazy. 50% or 25% of the time you are just wasting mana, and your turn. It's really a card you only want to use when you are comfortable spending the mana on it. x2 at most. Maybe even just 1.

>2 Sorcerer's Strongbox
6 Mana, draw three. Not Great.

>4 Fiery Gambit
Personally I had a hard time using these effectively. Unless you are betting on 2 and up always. It's just better to get a Lightning bolt, and since all the other win conditions are just Win-or-not-yet. Lightning bolt is probably just better.

>Ral Zarek. Mogg Assassin
Ral Yes. Mog, you don't really side board in causal but Mogg is kinda sideboard card. You only want him down when your Gambits, Bolts, and Pyros aren't umphy enough to kill your opponents stuff, but if you're splashing blue, that's want the counter spells are for.

Counterbalance adds a nice feeling of randomness as well.

>>44555204
you'd play a deck that's around 230 cards that's mostly lands and a few tutor type cards

Im trying to break into a modern group with my casual deck. I normally play Elves, I just want to troll some people.
The meta is mainly Abzan, Jund and Twin, and my deck is a shitbrew of an undercosted standard Abzan deck without black (everything that has counters has about a million effects) mixed with 4 enduring scalelords.
I recently got some Gavony townships and noticed I can kill people extremely quickly, especially when combined with hardened scales and a graft creature or 2. What are some budget-ish options that I could add to the deck? Im fine with buying a card like dark confidant, but not goyf

>>44548708
totally unrelated, but that pic brings back memories, I wish WotC would make Istvan a planeswalker...

>>44549600
the actual rule is that you can have as many cards in your deck as you can shuffle unaided

4 Young Pyromancer
4 Delver of Secrets
4 Lightning Bolt
4 Counterspell
4 Ponder
6 Mountain
3 Vapor Snag
4 Daze
2 Spell Pierce
4 Kiln Fiend
4 Evolving Wilds
4 Brainstorm
1 Terramorphic Expanse
8 Island
3 Gitaxian Probe
1 Flame Slash

Here, this is a deck for a cousin who wants to play a casual tempo deck. Its like a pauper deck with YP added. Thoughts?

>>44548708
1) Think of a mechanic or group of mechanics I want to base my deck on.
3) Think about the efficiency per card.
4) Make a mana curve
5) Put removal spells
6) Put a haymaker (A big ass card that'll win tthe game with proper set up)

>>44555692
speaking of haymakers, what are some good cheap ones out there?

>>44555139
>implying people don't just proxy expensive cards
>implying good mana is not casual
Seriously, what is that attitude? It's a thing even on cockatrice, people get real butthurt when my Fable of Wolf and Owl deck runs players of Mistys, trops, and breeding pools. I like casting my spells. End rant.

What's your favorite deck to play? I love my Spiteful Visions deck, mainly because the people I play with let me live for far too long just because I have 2-4 howling mine variants out. Then I drop a couple Kederekt Parasites and Visions and they start taking 15 a turn.

>>44555660
Drop kiln fiend for 2 true name nemesis
Proxy 4 force of will, you want 8-10 counterspells
Make sure you have around 30 sorceries and instants, 10-12 creatures, 18-19 land
Get some cheap duals in there
Doing this means you have a legacy tier deck

What are some cheap, fun decks i can build for kitchen table shenanigans. People i play with are starting to get tired of me playing mindcrank and aggro all the time

>>44548708
Here's some basic deckbuilding tips:

You want about 2/5 of your deck to be lands. Try to make them line up with what spells you have. If you have a whole lots of green spells with a couple blue ones, you'd want mostly forests with a few Islands. If it's about 50/50, just use equal amounts of both. I'd recommend sticking to one or two colors for your first couple decks.

Have mostly cheap spells costing 1, 2, or 3 mana. Have a few costing 4, 5, or 6 and maybe a couple costing ore than that. Pros call this a "Mana Curve". It helps so you don't draw a hand with a bunch of high-mana stuff that you can't paly until you already have 4 lands out. That way you actually do stuff during the first 4 turns, which can be critical. A lot of new players build decks where it blows holes in anything that sits still long enough to let it do its thing, but then if someone gets off to a quick start, you didn't get to play any cards, and that's not fun.

Lastly, don't take shit too seriously. Magic isn't a very fair or balanced game, so don't worry if you lose a lot in the beginning. The worst thing you can do is get worked up or butthurt over stupid shit, and magic has a lot of stupid shit.

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>>44555733
Greatest power ftw

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Vexing Devil
Oversold Cemetery
Mass Hysteria / Anger

Block or die? Has this been done before?

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>>44555733
Emmy, shes such a sweet girl

>>44555762
The idea was to keep it under 80 dollars, thank you for the advice. I'm not sure if this person is alright with proxies.

The thing about non shock/abur duals is that you lose the power of daze.

>>44549592
Oh dear god...

>>44555776
Go to your store's cheap junky commons bin. Find a bunch of cheap creatures that all have the same creature type and are of similar colors. Then go buy 4 Door of Destinies. They shouldn't be more than 4$, which is very reasonable for a Rare. Fill it out with utility cards of the appropriate color (Draw spells, direct damage, ramping, disruption, etc.)

Bam, instant Tribal deck.

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>>44555776
I'm having fun with a deck that bounces pic related back to my hand. Big green guys is pretty fun too.

>>44555362
>group of people buy three packs each
>everyone opens their first pack, looks through it (by themselves)
>pick a card you want in your deck
>once everyone has picked one from their pack, pass your pack to the person to your left (and get the pack from the person to your right)
>pick another card from this pack, pass, etc.
>repeat for the next two packs
>play with the deck you made

>>44555992

Usually done with eight players, since that gives you a reasonable sized cluster for games.

>>44555776
Grab any bulk rare (preferably an interesting one). Get 4 copies of it. What does it do? I grabbed River Kelpie, which wants me to reanimate and flashback, so U/B is a go. See what cards you have that support your card. I have plenty of think twice/forbidden alchemy, which draw me into the Kelpie and help it go off. Also found a few rise from the grave and unburial rites (maybe I splash white?). Kelpie doesn't specify me so maybe mass reanimate like exhume or Twilights Call. Figure out your mana. This sounds like a control deck so I'm feeling 26 lands, in blue and black with a few white duals/trilands. Finally fill in with cool cards that still help. I have a Sidisi, Undead Vuzier, that seems fun to reanimate a lot.

Just that easy.

>>44555992

Also, you add as much basic land as you want and you don't need to use all the cards you draft. Also ALSO, you can include more than four copies of a card and the minimum deck size is 40.

>>44555776
Get a bunch of artifacts, preferably indestructible ones that don't cost a lot of mana, like Darksteel Ingot. Then go get 3 March of the Machines (you don't really need 4). Have fun killing people with a bunch of artifacts.

>>44556133
You can't have fun with March unless you Armageddon with Mycosynth Lattice /s (though seriously this is normally the first thing people think of when you play March so be careful)

>>44556169
May as well vandalblast if youre running mycosynth

>>44555880
Yeah, how dare new players not know the rules, smfh

i wish anyone around here still played casual 60 instead of just commander, 22 decks just sitting there gathering dust. i dont have the heart to dismantle them for commander, ive had them for so long.

>>44556870
I hear ya, luckily when I come home from college my LGS has casual FNM so I can run all the fun control decks I brew up.

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>>44555204 >>44555417
Dig cards also do wonders, if only to find tutors and things to help Battle of Wits stick.
Pic related is an auto 4 of in Battle of Wits decks.

>>44555992 >>44556039
Also, the second (but not third) pack get passed to your right (and received from your left).
And if you don't feel like buying three packs every draft you can build a Cube.
It's a built card pool of (typically) at least 360 cards (= 8 players, 3 packs of 15 each), though many cubes have upwards of 520 cards (without every card showing up in every draft). 720 is generally the upper limit in size.

>>44549123
Out of the three posted it would depend on the tips of deck, the elf for an elf deck, or a more defensive one. The bear for a two colour deck , and the companion for a monogreen deck, or one with beast synergy

>>44555733
Ulamogs crusher, most monstrosity cards (theros)
Abhorrent overload for black, and depending on ones definition of cheap kothophed, shivan dragon
Gaeas revenge

>>44549015
>I'm only aware of 15 nonland cards
Why can't I keep a theme? There are more than enough myr for a 60-card deck. Adding plenty of each while also allowing space for some sorceries and instants just removes the chances of drawing a specific card. Large decks are only worse if you're building a deck around drawing one specific card. In that example, I could play two games with the same deck and win without drawing the same creature twice. Who cares if it isn't a tournament net-deck?

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>44559070
Larger decks are objectively worse than smaller decks. It's how basic statistics work. Try to keep it to 60 but if you go over, its no big deal as lo g as you have fun.

Also don't talk shit about net decking. It's fun as hell. I build my own casual decks, and I also net deck. On of my absolute favorite decks to play is my Legacy Manaless Dredge deck and that only cost 60 bucks to buy.

Yeah Magic costs money. So does every other hobby out there. Cause guess what;
first world commodities cost money. But as long as you have fun then it doesn't matter what or how you play. Try commander or highlander. Those are also pretty fun

>>44559341
Net decking isn't fun, there isn't anything wrong with it but it is just like net listing, a boring way to optimization

>>44549592
>>44549925
whats actually really great for the rules is the Magic Duels game on steam, and it's free, thought Magic Duels 2014 is better but it's like $10 or something

My advice is to pick up one of the duel decks or an intro pack. Then see what you like about those and add and take away. Don't worry about the 60 card limit as you won't be able to keep it when you have so few cards you own. Don't go over 80 and keep a general .4 manabase.

Only put a few high cost spells in unless you want to go green and get a bunch of "search for a land and put it on the battlefield/hand" spells. Then you can go a,little nuts but generally have more 1-4 cost cards

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>>44558980
fits my definition of cheap

>>44560905
He's pretty good in a black deck, covers some other bases as well, although bad in a mass token army