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/fgt/ - Film General Thread

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/fgt/ - Film General Thread: AE-1 edition

>Old Thread >>3106439

>This is a place to post about anything film related. Processing, scanning, developing, gear, etc is all fair game. Let's fill this thread with images so please include an image with your post.
>Have fun! Remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.
>People looking to get their photos critiqued please include the film, lens and camera used to give some context.
>Any post without an image attached should be ignored because the poster is obviously incompetent.
>>
get with the times grandpa

films been dead for decades now and no amount of binge watching the O'reilly factor/hating black people is going to bring your ancient tech back

sage
>>
>>3110129

not an argument
>>
finally took apart my chaika and fixed the frame counter that hasnt worked in months. tiny spring arm had come off the ratcheting mechanism.
>>
>>3110129
Even if this is bait, film general can also function as a containment thread for us if you don't like us. Another argument is that usually old people don't use film usually because they didn't enjoy when it was widely available.
>>
>>3110120
nice pentax picture OP
>>
>>3110182
>tfw all the old people are selling their film equipment for nothing because they've been digicucks for over a decade
>>
What is the difference between Superia X-Tra and Superia Premium?
>>
What's a good black and white film for low light indoors with no flash? Going to try shoot a few shots at a gig this week with my AE-1.

I know it probably won't work out but it's worth a shot right?
>>
>>3110242
Tri-X/HP5 pushed to 1600 or 3200
>>
>>3110091
Looks like a combination of expired film, shit scanning and underexposure.
>>
>>3110182
>old people don't use film usually because they didn't enjoy when it was widely available
The irony being that film is now easier to use than ever before.
>>
The last place that developed film in my area just shut down. They charged $3 per 35mm roll and $4 for 120. Is there a mail-in development service with comparable prices?
>>
My other camera broke so I'm trying this. What good cheap film?

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>>
>>3110198
>difference between Superia X-Tra and Superia Premium?

1.Superia Premium 400 is a Japanese market film only, Fuji only make it for Japan
2.For the technical details, the Superia Premium 400 has no "cyan sensitive layer". In addition the peak wavelength of Superia Premium 400 is about 650 nm, and the tail extends to about 680 nm, while X-TRA is about 640 nm to reach the peak, the tail extends to about 670 nm. This means that compared to Superia X-TRA 400, Superia Premium 400 responds to longer wavelength, wider red light.
>>
I found it's possible to tear film off it's spool if you advance past 36 exposures too hard...

Feelsbad.ogg
>>
>>3110269
Most are around $10-15 for a roll. Try asking at a community college or your local cvs/walgreens. they ship it out.
>>
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>always an all metal, all mechanical, film camera purist
>despised LOMO, lomography, and everything hipster and toy camera related
>get gf
>gf wants a Lomo camera
>buy her one and try it once
wtf im a Lomo Homo now!

srs, they fucking rule. now i understand the craze, they are real fun. also a camera that can do either half frame or 24x24 with the flick of a switch is some serious deal that shouldnt be underestimated #lomo4lyfe
>>
>>3110291
if brit, agfa vista.
if burger, colorplus.
if nip, fuji industrial.
if amerindian or australian, LOL.
>>
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>>3110309
I prefer these
>>
>>3110291
depends where you live, black and white or colour, and what iso you want to be shooting at
>>
>>3110120
should I get a Nikon FA or an F3?
>>
>>3110310
>>3110312

>colorplus is 10 for $27 and so is Ultramax 400
>>
>>3110314
>Nikon FA or an F3
http://www.dantestella.com/technical/nikonslr/nikonslr.html
>>
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I'm pretty new to film. I got myself a Minolta XG-M with a Rokkor 200mm 1:4.
I'd love to get shots like pic related, with a purple-ish touch to them. This is shot with a Velvia 100f cross processed. The thing is, I can't seem to get my hands on that film.
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but Is there any way I can get that purple tone without it?

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Anyone else a fan of Lomochrome Purple?

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>>
>>3110330
that looks coolio. a friend bought it thinking hed get something like aerochrome, instead he got mad.
>>
>>3110327
thought xpro was always meant to look like ass, that looks super sweet.
>>
>>3110295

So wjat exactly does that mean? If I use Premium it will tend to be more red?
>>
>>3110336
yep more of a red tint
>>
>>3110297

Did that once, two images overlapped, was kinda cool.

>>3110327

There is a specific purple tinted lomo film.
>>3110330

Tempted to try it myself.

But Velvia 100F is available everywhere. Try amazon even.
>>
>>3110327
Why don't you just tint it in post? You'll have more control that way, make the whites a bit cleaner etc.
>>
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just pulled the trigger on one of these with an 50 mm f/1.8
never shot film before, is this pretty good for starting out?
>>
>>3110349
It's call a shutter release, not a trigger.
>>
>>3110351
epic remark thanks for coming
>>
>>3110291
>>3110310
If Ausfag get Hillvale sunny 16
>>
>>3110330
Shieeeeet I have one of those in the fridge. Really tempted to go out and use it but I'm trying to save it for a special day or something.
>>
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>>3110380
I REALLY don't recommend that you save your first roll of Lomochrome Purple for a special occasion. You get different shades and colors depending on exposure. Spend your first roll getting an idea of how certain lighting conditions will look, then you can get better results out of subsequent rolls. Thats my suggestion anyway.

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>>3110386
Well, I meant special as some day out with friends to take silly pics or something like that, not just wasting it in a stroll in the park or taking even more street pics in my own city.

Btw, what ISO do you recommend telling the lab to develop it? I usually shoot color negative 2/3 to 1 stop overexposed as long as there's enough light then develop at nominal ISO.
>>
>>3110388
>not just wasting it in a stroll in the park or taking even more street pics in my own city.

I do this all the time. Been trying to find new routes around lately, but it is so hot that anything but the most direct is absolutely killer.
>>
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>>3110309
Anyone who disses lomo just has a small peen. Buying a lomo camera for the typical asking price is hilarious, but getting one cheap and using it, hell yeaaaa.

>>3110351
Too late to ask now, isn't it friend? It's aight and will probably serve you well.

This week's camera cop. Mindblowingly, all the LCDs work. Loaded up Acros and gunna nightfag it up with flash.
>>
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>>3110397
>Anyone who disses lomo just has a small peen. Buying a lomo camera for the typical asking price is hilarious, but getting one cheap and using it, hell yeaaaa.
Dunno. If you're into low-fi photography I'd rather get some old 50s folder or something like that. They're about the same price used, are about as manual and probably have slightly better lenses.
>>
>>3110397
This, also their 800 film costs peanuts and gives really good results. It's probably the only color speed film you can get on the cheap in Europe.
>>
Threadly reminder that E6 is shit!
SHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIT!
>>
>>3110408
uuuh what
>>
>>3110408
Why so negative?
>>
>>3110414
Why so positive. E6 faggot.
>>
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>>3110401
But then you need to fuck with settings.

I get what you're saying, but there is appeal in a fixed aperture, fixed shutter speed camera.

>>3110408
love u 2

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>>
>>3110422
>there is appeal in a fixed aperture, fixed shutter speed camera
Any manual camera can have that if you just don't change the settings. Then your choice is between a ridiculously expensive ugly plastic piece of shit, or a beautiful, premium, ergonomically-pleasing and incredibly cheap machine.

Their cheapest MF camera is £40 (an unusable piece of shit with a plastic lens, heavy vignetting and the worst image I've ever seen from a film camera) and they go up to £400 (which will get you something marginally better). For £10, you can get an Agfa Isolette or Zeiss Ikon with - gasp - more features and infinitely better optical/build quality. Of course they still don't hold a candle to entry-level stuff like Mamiya, Yashica, Rollei etc. but they're still better than all Lomo's stuff combined.
>>
Getting my hands on some phenidone and can post back to Aus if anyone is interested.
>>
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>>3110439
You filthy smuggler. How much? Even 10g will last you ages, after all.

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>>
>>3110442
Doesnt seem to be any legal barrier in posting it desu, it just cant be exported from the U.S.

Think its gonna cost like $45-$50 aud/100g inc postage back to Aus from Japan.
>>
>>3110445
given, for instance, 1l of diy xtol needs 0.15g of it, yeah, 100g is a long-term investment. Remember it deteriorates, though. Best kept in a freezer.
>>
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>>3110388
While Lomochrome Purple is a pretty flexible film when it comes to exposure, I honestly dont mess with development a whole lot. Ive always had it developed as a 400 speed film, though I did shoot my first roll at 200 ISO + developed at 400. This is very unscientific, but quickly looking at some of the photos from that first roll compared to subsequent rolls, shooting it at 200 ISO seems to give somewhat deeper reds and yellows, while shooting + developing at 400 ISO gives the sky and other blues a more rich blue-green / turquoise color. The primary purple colors of the film dont appear to change a whole lot with exposure, and are generally deep and rich. Your experience may vary, of course.

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>>
Ok guys, suggestion: why don't you post any series of 3+ pics as a new thread at least for some days? Else we're going to be completely invaded by Sony shills creating garbage threads by the minute.
>>
>>3110451
Ive kept a bottle before (back in Aus) for several years without issue.

But there's other applications too besides trying to copy Xtol, like POTA or other low contrast developers.
>>
>>3110453
Welp, this was supposed to go into the /rpt/ but since people also post pics here, it applies as well
>>
>>3110452
Thanks for the feedback, I'll give it a test drive some day, hopefully soon.
>>
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You can buy used Holgas for <$10 pretty easily broski. Pic related, Holiga

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>>
>>3110453
I agree that there should be more OC photos in /p/ as a whole. Too many people who don't actually take (good) photos shaming others for their work or for their gear choices.
>>
>>3110269
Damn thats good value
>>
>>3110187
>rants on old people
>while going "HURRDURR TECHNOLOGY IS EVIL AND EDISON WAS A WITCH!"
>>
>>3110434
if you feel the need to offer "better choices", you still aint getting it.
>>
>>3110588
This. Photography is also about knowing your tool and taking advantage of its limitations to create a pleasing work of art. Being limited to a toy camera and its completely unpredictable results is fun by itself. The fact that you can get better cameras for less money is beyond the point of shooting with a Holga, which isn't even remotely expensive if you get it off ebay (<40€ for a new one with colour flash and glass lens)
>>
Diopters: how do they work?
Got a bargain (user condition) Leica M3 but would rather not pay a fortune for a ~-3.5 diopter.
Could I just use a diopter of some other camera system? (and DIY attach it securely but not permanently to the finder)
Or do diopters only work for the finder they're designed for?
>>
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>>3110594
also some of these cameras hold value by themselves beyond the shittiness/quirkiness. for example, i havent found any other camera that can do 24mm square format, there simply isnt one, except some memeblad fisheye that goes for $3000.

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>>
I've bought Olympus Pen ees2 (penis xD) and on auto no matter the condintions it shows me the red flag. Was it always too dark for it or is it broken?
>>
>>3110607
Selenium meters degrade over time, yours might simply be broken.
>>
>>3110607
its fucked. just lrn2read light and set it accordingly.
>>
>>3110608
>>3110609
damn thats depressing, but thanks
>>
>>3110596
You can always shoot with your glasses on or with contacts I guess.
Although I'm thinking of getting a diopter for my camera as well. OTOH, having to constantly take your glasses off and on might be a hassle.
>>
>>3110349
it'll serve you well and for ever (so long as you don't beat it), but do watch out, the shutter speed selection wheel may be confusing, as the marker line may not be well aligned to the number.
>>
>>3110619
Eye relief of the M3 isn't good enough to see the complete frame (and preferably also some context, why you get a rangefinder) with glasses, so I have to move my eye around which is annoying.
Don't use contacts because of reasons.

On cameras with diopter I don't usually take my glasses off but push em up with the camera when looking through the viewfinder (even if it looks a bit stupid). It works well enough, if you don't have the habit of looking through the finder all the time.

T B H I could've seen this coming and should've just got an M2 or M4, but this M3 was a bargain I couldn't resist.
>>
>>3110588
>>3110594
>>3110603
Who would've thought that making deliberately and unashamedly shitty products for extortionate prices would be such a good business plan? Fucking hipsters, I swear to god...
>>
Is superia x-tra 800 any good? I bought ten rolls of it at half price, expires this month. Haven't developed any of it yet.
>>
>>3110678
still not getting it.
>>
>>3110603
>i havent found any other camera that can do 24mm square format, there simply isnt one, except some memeblad fisheye that goes for $3000.
Yeah, you didn't try at all.

Guess the /fgt/ is still shit.
>>
>>3110603
>i havent found any other camera that can do 24mm square format, there simply isnt one
What is Instamatic?
What is Robot?
>face becomes dark, teleports behind you
What is any 35mm camera with a homemade mask over the film gate???
>>
>>3110791
lol.
>>3110796
>What is Instamatic?
a 126 and 110 dead format unusable piece of shit?
>What is Robot?
a camera that doesnt have any 24mm lens available?

any more epic retorts so i can prove you wrong like the cumsucking retard you are?
>>
>>3110796
>What is any 35mm camera with a homemade mask over the film gate???
>why get 645? just black tape the top and bottom of your rolleiflex viewfinder haha
>>
>>3110802

>110
>dead format

You stupid cuck, even lomo sells 110 film
>>
>>3110802
Wait, are you seriously trying to shill a diana and 38mm lens as a 24mm equivalent 120 square format camera? I just need to check how retarded you're being right now.
>>
>>3110805
the very fact that lomo is selling it means its certified dead, their whole "film division" is based on scavenging dead shit, you mongoloid.
>>
>>3110802
>24mm lens
>>3110807
>24mm equivalent 120 square format camera
He was talking about shooting a square frmat picture on 35mm film, not shooting ultrawide on 120, you
>cumsucking retard
>>
>>3110810
>He was talking about shooting a square frmat picture on 35mm film, not shooting ultrawide on 120, you
That's why he mentioned Hasselblad as an option, gotcha.
>>
>>3110810
Thanks senpai. I just dropped in late and traced the question back to it's point of origin though.
I'm not big on meme hipster gear.
>>
>>3110811
I mean, that's what confused me. Why mention a 120 square format with a 24mm equivalent?
>>
>>3110810
>>3110811
>>3110815
its the diana mini btw, 35mm roll camera, 24mm lens (more or less, ofc).
>>3110815
>Why mention a 120 square format with a 24mm equivalent?
because its the only example i know of square photo wide angle combo. there is some fisheye by arsat/kiev too, not as expensive as the blad, still more expensive than the $10 i paid for the diana, and i doubt much sharper than the plastic diana lens.
>>
>>3110120
Olympus TG-5 or Ricoh WG-50 to take kayaking/to the beach/wherever that is too risky to take an ILC?
>>
>>3110824
I'd honestly bring a disposable or whatever compact with the least moving parts you can find.
>>
>>3110678

at least it's getting more people interested in film
>>
>>3110678
You sound like a lame person.

>>3110824
Nikons V with the 35mm lens. Should be do-able for ~$100.
>>
>>3110678
>>3110867
oh and one more argument for lomo cameras: theyre so mechanically simple you can fix them anytime. hell, you can even build your own mechanical camera using them as basic templates, something im seriously considering on doing hopefully soon.
>>
>>3110321
FA it is, party cause I found an FA with lens, bag, tripod and flash on the FB marketplace for $125, amazing.
>>
>>3110867
Thanks for the one actual decent counter-argument. However, I'd be interested to see how many people who buy Lomos go on to use proper cameras and how many people put a few rolls through then leave them sat on a shelf and go back to using Instagram filters.
>>
>>3111002
I wouldn't shoot 120 at all if it weren't for a couple hipster clothing stores randomly stocking lomo cameras and their film in store in my home town. There's a lot to be said for these things having a retail presence, because even camera stores nowadays seem to really reluctantly offer analog stuff
>>
>>3111013
Yep. I buy all my film from a local hipster record/cafe shop. Cheaper than B&H somehow.
>>
>>3111022
My local hipster photo shop is a little bit more expensive except on most lomo brand stuff but they do stock novelty stuff like revolog or cinestill.

Their lab prices are also higher but their scans are miles ahead and they have the decency of cutting your film and put it in sleeves instead of just throwing the developed roll back into a plastic canister like the others do.
>>
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Sup /fgt/'s.
heard real photo journalist and street photographers tape there logos.
Are they even trying?

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>>3111064
>not taping the frame counter
Are you even trying
>>
>>3111069
fuck got me there
I was gonna but i have to watch it cause hand rolled film rips off the spool too easily
>>
What's a small pocketable half frame camera I can take with me on a trip?
>>
>>3111064
why they do this?
>>
>>3111132
Last I heard was to minimize theft making it look old and held together almost literally by duct tape. Also to avoid the branding glowing and stealing the show in other photographers pics with flash.
>>
>>3110198
Theres a contrast and saturation difference iirc as well last time I visited bic or yodobashi there was a chart up
>>
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Hey goys, /o/ here.

Recently going through the a bunch of my parents old junk I found their Olympus Superzoom 70S. I want to take photos of old cars and make them look like they where taken in the 90's. What film should I use for this?

I will post a couple of photos of what I want my pics to look like
>>
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>>3111202
>>
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>>3111203
>>
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>>3111205
>>
>>3111202
kodak gold 200, agfa 200, or whatever cheap color drugstore film is available in your area.
>>
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>>3111202
>buy cheap film from the supermarket
>let it get developed and printed there
>then scan the prints
>>
File: Portra400_008.jpg (246KB, 1000x750px) Image search: [Google]
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F o o j i G A 6 4 5 W

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>>
>>3111210
they usually can scan it for you as well
>>
Ayy, I'm an on again off again amateur photographer. I do 35mm as well as instant film. Is there a scanner buying guide out there? Does anyone have any good affordable recommendations? I'm fine with buying used.
>>
>>3111213
The point is that to get this kind of blurry and hazy look you better scan the prints.
>>
>>3111228
canoscan 9000F is pretty good starter scanner for getting good quality without spending thousands of dollars.
>>
What's the bare minimum I should be spending in a flatbet scanner for film? I was eyeing a Plustek 8100 but I want something I can eventually scan 120 format on.
>>
>>3110310
AGFA isnt in poundland anymore though. Where would I get it?
>>
File: CNV00050.jpg (544KB, 1232x1840px) Image search: [Google]
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Any tips or Ideas for wide aperture portratits?

Also what would you critique of mine. I shot it on a Pentax ME super with a 50mm Lens at 1.7f using kodak colour plus 200.

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>>
>>3110397
lucky guy, I bought one for like 12k yen as a souvenir in Lemon Camera and it was fucking shit, light leaks all over the place and a completely busted LCD. Sad because it was my favourite camera
>>
>>3111269
You really want C&C for this?

I mean, what more can I say other than:
Focus on the eye, not on the camera. Fucking gearfag.
>>
File: fp4+-021.jpg (155KB, 666x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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Got some HC-110.. thanks for the advice guys. Have some snapshot.

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>>
Just got a new scanner, V550. Any tips for scanning Ektar to get the most out of the colour?
>>
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This is what defeat looks like. :-(
>>
Would a PowerShot SX530 be as good for recording as a DSLR?

Would the audio capture be low-quality?
>>
>>3111463
What happened here?
>>
>>3111463
>murricacucks can't into film
No surprise there.
>>
>>3111474
>murricacucks
"Americucks" rolls off the tongue better
>>
>>3111333
Nice! I like the repetition of both, the floor levels of the building and the segments of the concrete pump. Doors and pump lead to the constriction crew. I questioned for a moment, whether the plank should be cut off. however, I think to cut off the white below it will settle the framing.
>>
>>3111333
HC-110 is the poop. Just be careful with developing TMX in it, very very careful, prefer to underdevelop slightly, don't go with the higher figure just to be safe.

Also, I recognize and acknowledge your two sets of triple digits.
>>
File: fp4+-003.jpg (161KB, 667x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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same roll, but 21mm instead of 35mm.

>>3111515
Thanks. I really do not like the shot, but it's one of the best I took on that roll. A 50mm would have been better.. had to stick the lens through a fence.

>>3111550
Got it because my last roll of HP5 looked like shit in Rodinal and I'm tired of mixing D-76. No TMX in my fridge at all, but I guess it's because of t-grain, so I have to be careful when developing Delta.

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>>
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>>3111559
>HP5 looked like shit in Rodinal
Correct.
I use Tmax dev.

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>>
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>>3111608

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>>
File: carving.jpg (123KB, 667x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3111559
Attached is an example of what happens w/ TMX in dilution B 20°C for 7 minutes when the sane recipe says 6. Bunched up the highlights something fierce, 2/37 negatives were at all serviceable (this is the other).

TMX is just a development-sensitive film, I wouldn't blame T-grain for this, I've had absolutely lovely results from Acros in dilution E (I think it was). They say xtol works much better anyway, gives a smoother curve.
>>
File: 789865798.jpg (25KB, 524x400px) Image search: [Google]
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>hand in hassy for service
>still no email about cost estimates after a week and a half
>not even an acknowledgement that the have it
Fucking swedes
>>
File: for-p.jpg (547KB, 2017x1431px) Image search: [Google]
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picked up this bunch of shit for $80.

An Olympus OM-1, OM-2, 50mm Zuiko lens, 75-150 Zuiko lens, a Tamron telephoto lens of unknown origin, and a Vivistar lens of unknown origin.

I dun good? First film cameras, and first camera besides muh shitty phone.
>>
>>3111674
Killing it dude.
Use the OM2, sell the OM1.
The 50mm is a really nice lense, and the Oly zoom is surprisingly good as well, from the few negs I've scanned for others taken with it.
>>
Can you use a drop of any type of lighter fluid to clean a shutter that hesitates (or doesn't) fire at all? This has been a recent issue with my Sekor 80mm 2.8. Also another notable problem is having to use more pressure than usual to change the aperture from 4 to 5.6 as it makes a cringey shifting noise going up stops. Tried taking it apart but a few screws would not come out with a small flathead screwdriver.
>>
>>3111676
OM-2 has been a piece of shit at this point, I fucking hate it. Meanwhile, the OM-1 has been pretty damn good and I'm loving the fact that it's fully mechanical. I'm one of those "if something mechanical can do it instead of something electronic, go mechanical" people. My car is carbureted and has a manual transmission, I carry a 1911, etc. Hipster I guess, but just preference.

I'm also interested in subminiature and small format photography right now, because I got a few rolls of unopened 110 film. Gonna see if I can score a Pentax Auto 110 so I can use microfilm to make some microdots to send to my penpal.
>>
>>3111238

v800
>>
>in kyoto
>gion matsuri is starting
>camera jams
>out for repairs for who knows how long

Well fuck.
>>
>>3111760

get a new one
>>
File: FA.jpg (403KB, 1000x646px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3110977
pulled the trigger.
and for $125 i got:
>Nikon FA, 9/10 Condition
>35-105mm f/3.5
>75-300mm f/4.0, few dings but works
>28mm f/2.8 kit lens
>some Nikon flash
>Tripod
>carrying bag
>assorted filters, UVs and Polarizing lens.
>MD-15 motor drive.

Worth it I think.
Also some of the items in the picture.

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>>
>>3111762

Too expensive to get a new m-mount camera just like it, but I grabbed an X-700.

It is pretty nice so far, though I have only put a few rolls through it.
>>
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I just came across a Nikon n75. I'm thinking about buying a 50mm lense, but is it worth it to spend more on the glass than i ever would on the body?

What would you /p/haggs do with an n75 body?

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>>
>>3111770
>>28mm f/2.8 kit lens
What did he mean by this?
>>
>>3111800
it's a kit lens, the build quality is shit, wobbly and everything. also the one referenced to in the manual.
>>
>>3111802
There is no such thing as a 28/2.8 kit lense, buddy.
>>
>>3111804
how else do you explain such shit quality?
oh well, I was wrong then.
>>
>>3111805
You call it a consumer lens / entry level lens.

Kit lens literally means the lens that was typically sold with the body to make a kit. I'm unaware of any 35mm SLRs that were commonly paired with a 28mm to make a kit.
>>
>>3111825
>You call it a consumer lens / entry level lens.
No, you just call it a lens. If you feel the need to add something to that, call it a shit lens. Both "consumer" and "entry level" make it seem like there's some level up progression system to camera gear, which there isn't.
>>
File: 1.0x0.jpg (61KB, 500x500px) Image search: [Google]
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>camera misreads DX code
>shoot entire roll of 100 iso slide film at 800 iso

Well fuck, doubt thats gonna come out right.

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>>
>>3111834
There are though. Canon L lens is one example.
>>
>>3111838
>>3111834
>>3111825
man I don't give a shit honestly, it works, this isn't a gear thread.
what do you think of the lot purchase?
>>
>>3111838
Literally no reason a beginner can't start with a full set of L lenses. Hell, starting off with better gear is a pretty good thing too, because you know for a fact it's you that's making the shit images, that your gear is definitely up to the task.

>>3111844
The price is ok. Outside of that, whether or not it's a good purchase depends entirely on what you end up doing with it. If that shit just lives in your closet, any price was a waste. If you go out, make some neat photos, and get hours and hours of fun (or whatever makes you feel warm fuzzies), then five times the price will have been worth it. Don't stress over the consumerist side. It's how you become a gearfag. Go shoot.
>>
>>3111837

>having a camera that reads DX codes
>>
>>3111847
well no i'm really considering weighted value of each item, like price/per and all. I'm already halfway through a roll of Superia 400 and I got it today.
>>
>>3111852
Can't say without looking over the stuff in person. Condition is a major factor and you can't really judge that in person. I don't think you got ripped off and might have lucked out, but that depends. It's a price level I probably would have taken the risk on, for whatever that's worth.
>>
>>3111844
The camera for that price is good. The rest is a bunch of ~$10 stuff (depends what that 28mm is though, if it's an AI-S then that's good $$). Good grab if you plan to use it all. You'll have a hard time getting rid of those lenses and extra pieces if you decide you don't want them though.

Basically you paid $125 for a decent camera and a bunch of shit-tier extras. I wouldn't have bought it, but that's because the 35-105, 75-300, motor drive, filters, carrying bag, and flash would all be useless to me and what I shoot.

TL;DR if you plan to use it all, nice. If you hope to trim down the kit and sell some lenses to make a bit of money back, good luck.
>>
>>3111860
heh, where I live at, you're fucked trying to get rid of any older photo gear. If it's not digital Canikon it won't sell for any price.
>>
>>3111856
the worst condition item is the 75-300mm, only because of some dust, and the "PASSED" sticker residue. Obviously some brassing from wear on the camera, minor stuff really, and dust. So at worst 9/10 really.

>>3111860
Not sure if the 28mm is AI-S, but it's some form of AI lens, as the FA only takes those, however it is an E series. Motor drive might be useful as essentially a backup battery. Lens I do use, pretty extensively too. However I may sell the 75-300. Already sold the carrying bag for $15 anyway.
>>
>>3111863
Here it sells pretty well actually (Albuquerque, NM). Sold one of my Canon FTb's earlier this week for $70. And I paid $40 for it. Hell even a broken AE-1 Program I have has someone looking to buy it even though I told him the shutter curtain won't work (mechanical problem). Everything related to film sells out quickly, at least locally.
>>
>>3111863
Yeah, old film era zoom lenses that aren't fast, constant aperture basically need to be given away for free.
>>
>>3111866
Camera's are one thing...shitty zooms are something totally different. You pretty much need to pair them with a camera and accessories to get dumb cucks like you to buy them.
>>
>>3110120
just got a pentax MX, and the slower shutter speeds (>1/8) and the timer seem to stutter a little, sometimes even coming to a halt (1 sec exposure time stops halfway, kicks back up again sometime). what's the fix? did i get screwed?
>>
>>3111873
Guy bought from me an 80-200mm f/4 FD mount lens for $40. Well above what I paid anyway.I'm not fucking with you either
>>
>>3111871
From my experience, that's a general thing.

Film stuff moves so badly here, I managed to get a Hassy 500cm with 120 Makro (old version) for $500.

Right now there's not much up for sale locally and this is the best deal which while not excellent, is pretty good if everything is in good condition.
https://rapidcity.craigslist.org/pho/6212479371.html
>>
>>3111875
probably just needs a cla...sounds like something is gummy in the works which happens as the lubricants used break down over time.
>>
>>3111884
is it possible to do it at home? i (only? not sure if good deal) spent $80 on it, and any sort of professional restoration will cost much more

thanks for your help, by the way.
>>
>>3111889
How nervous are you about messing with fiddly little screws, gears, and such?

http://www.pentax-manuals.com/manuals/service/mx_sm.pdf
>>
>>3111881
You could get all those lenses for <$100 off KEH I imagine. $250 expensive for an F-1.
>>
>>3111608
>>3111614
These look great.
>>3111623
Appears less sharp, but I wonder if this is due to less acutance. Still, I think the grain is quite nice.

Also thinking about giving Diafine a try.
>>
>>3111979
It's not tack-sharp because of shutter speed, handholding, and f/1.4 on an old Zuiko 50mm being soft and glowy. The grain is very nice, resolution is obviously better than the lens at that aperture (or my flatbed at any marketing DPI), tones would be smashing good, but there's fuck-all for shadows anywhere.
>>
Just bought some

Portra 160
Portra 400
Ektar 100
Tri-X 400
Fujicolor 1600
>>
>>3111889
> i (only? not sure if good deal) spent $80 on it
that's midrange price for an MX, you could pay more than double that for one in excellent condition.

>and any sort of professional restoration will cost much more
check out http://pentaxs.com/ if you're not up to doing it yourself. dude's a pro and he has very reasonable prices.

considering what you paid, i'd say it's well worth it to send it in and get it CLA'd
>>
>>3111968
>You could get all those lenses for <$100 off KEH I imagine. $250 expensive for an F-1.
You imagine wrong. That 200mm 2.8 they don't even have but goes for 150-250 on ebay. The 50mm/1.4 they sell for $100. The 28mm is $43. So with those, we're at just shy of $300 without the body, which goes for about $100. So about $100 cheaper than trying to put it together through keh/ebay...of course, assuming the condition is on point.
>>
File: IMG_20170711_194601_1.jpg (2MB, 2976x3968px) Image search: [Google]
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I got some Variochrome, I'll put it in my Hasselblad and let's see how it goes.
>>
>>3112106
cool, cool. i just had one more question -- what makes an expensive film camera better than like, a basic one like the k1000? in digital it's the sensor, but here you just buy more expensive film, no?
>>
>>3112197
Automation, build quality, access to lens ecosystem, and them just charging for a name.

>just buy more expensive film
Well, film that suits your goals. Like think of film like different instagram presets, but you gotta pick the preset before you shoot.

But yeah, pretty much a film body is just a light tight box that holds film. Differences are usually relatively minor on the body side and only really important in terms of what lenses you can mount to it.
>>
I need some help with scanning.

I bought a canon 8400f (also use it for scanning my drawings) but I can't seem to find software that allows it to scan film, photo impression 6 doesn't recognise it as a film scanners and other software Just don't have the feature. Anyone know what I can use? Preferably free.
>>
>>3112197
mx was targeted at more of a prosumer market, and has more features than the k1000.

mx has a timer
mx has depth of field preview
mx has replaceable focusing screens

both are fully mechanical and only use batteries for the light meter.

if you look at some of pentaxs other models, you'll find things like aperture priority or auto exposure modes.
>>
>>3112205
ah yeah, i see. i've also noticed that the self timer is weak around the end, related to the shutter issue in some way. but what about these cameras vs a leica? what's to justify the markup?
>>
>>3112216
Leicas use a rangefinder mechanism for focusing which is more mechanically complex. Using a rangefinder is different from using a reflex camera and some people are in love with reflexes. The m43 mount also has a ton of excellent glass for it. They were all built to very high tolerances, and they have a lot of romance/history behind them because they were basically *the* photojournalist camera for ages (Nikon's F3 and F4 did a good job of knocking them off until Canon made autofocus actually work and took the crown). For the most part, they retain their price because of the build quality, brand mystique, and their status as basically the only rangefinder on the market.

They're kinda like the Jaguar of cars, but reliable. Older ones are also a royal pain in the ass to load with film.
>>
>>3112197
Disregarding the points >>3112203 already mentioned, a more expensive manual focus SLR will have, over its cheaper cousins: larger prisms with more coverage, faster shutters, faster flash sync, better mirror-slap mitigation (mechanical cushioning, pneumatic cushioning, counterweights, etc.), self-timers, and various other niceties.

As manual focus unmotorized bodies go, generally the first $50 is the minimum, the next $50 gets you a handful of nice premium features of decades gone by, the third $50 is only necessary for enjoyment, and after that the returns diminish so far as to be just a matter of branding.
>>
sick. thanks /p/!
>>
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>>3111865
Well the E-Series 28mm is Nikon's worst 28mm, so your impression of it being junky is certainly accurate. But it's not a "kit lense" by any commonly understood meaning of the phrase.
And the E-series lenses are mechanically "Ai-S", but are not in the Ai-S series of lenses, if you catch my drift. It would be worth more than a similar vintage tamron or vivitar 28mm, but not a lot more.
>>3111979
>These look great.
thx bruh

Have a proper expensive Nikkor 28/2.8 Ai-S photo, on HP5 in Tmax.

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>>
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>>3112068

I just bought.

Superia Premium 400 x3
Kodak Tri-X 400 x1
Fuji Natura 1600 x1

And a little case for it all.

First time using black and white film actually, looking forward to it.

>>3112123

I wanted to get some, but it is like $40 to get two rolls shipped here. Fuck that.

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>>
Just copped a spotmatic with a super takumar 50mm

Real new to all this and wondering what sort of film I should be shooting
>>
>>3112216
>i've also noticed that the self timer is weak around the end
that's just how the mechanical timers are, i have multiple me supers that are the same.

>>3112435
kodak colorplus 200
fujicolor c200
tri-x 400

good cheap films to start out on.
>>
>>3111075
what kind of shitty tape are you using? I've never had this problem
>>
>>3112452
If you're in Europe there is no such thing as cheap tri-x. I suggest fomapan 200.
>>
>>3112204
Just pirate VueScan
>>
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>>3112497
That's like saying there are no cheap prostitutes in this town, go fuck the neighbour's rottweiler.
Not a real alternative.
Shoot Ilford, you moron, or if you're real hard up, Rollei. But you never go full foma.

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Color Matrix129
>>
>>3112497

Tri-X is around $9 here in Japan.

That is like Nature price.
>>
>>3112518
If you're after a gritty look go full foma.
>>
>>3112518
They said cheap alternatives, where I am Ilford and rollei are just as expensive as tri-x, at 6 euros per roll. Yes, you can shop around.

Foma 200 is a great film for the price.
>>
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Shot some Delta 100 recently.

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>>3112632

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>>3112633

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>>3112634

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>>
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Tried some Shanghai GP3 in 4x5". Is it rebranded fp4?

I developed these together with some Rollei infraed, butended up underdeveloping the GP3 negs a bit. Pyrocat-HD

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>>3112647
Rollei Infrared

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>>
Kinda stupid question. About to leave for a two week trip. Bought a mix of 12 35mm rolls. Should I just stick to one camera or bring another with a different ISO film loaded based on the shooting conditions? I've been shooting with a Leica m4 with a 50mm elmar f/2.8 but also have a Nikon fm2 with a 50mm f/1.4.
>>
>>3112701
Both of these lenses and bodies have full aperture ranges and full shutter speed ranges. Why would you need a two to three stop change? The combination is valid if you're metering or borkehwhoring with the Nikon, as a backup if the Leica hasn't had a CLA in 10 years, or the Elmar is your low-fi option to the Nikkor's hi-fi.
>>
>>3112705
Thanks for the response. I figured since there's not much focal length difference in the lenses, it really wouldn't matter too much. The Leica has had a CLA in the past 10 years, so I'm not worried about its reliability.
>>
>>3112322
Yeah the build quality is pretty on the low, but hey thanks for the info, probably won't sell it any time soon anyway.
>>
>>3112632
sweet texture on the building on the right
>>
>>3112518
Foma has a bad name because slav and cheap, but their 200 film is actually rather good (despite being unfortunately named "creative"). It has an, as far as I know, unique combination of T- and regular grain, so it's not just Foma making some film as cheaply as possible.
Has plenty of fans. Look it up.
>>
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Probably no one's interested, but I was the guy a few threads back considering buying cheaper chinese flexiclamps to disassemble a Leica M3.
Ended up buying them, received them today and they worked perfectly. Removed the top cover without a scratch, was a breeze really.

Made from _very_ soft metal and don't give the impression of really being made for daily use though. (Then again, if you're going to fix Leicas on a daily basis, you can probably afford a proper set of tools)
>>
>>3112824
I heard Foma 200 jacks your fixer up. Like, leaves fluff in it. Can you confirm or deny? Is this the slav T-max? Why isn't it being shilled harder?
>>
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>>3112858
patent dispute issues with whoever developed T-grain, prolly kodak. They seemed to advertise it in the past but good luck finding anything about it containing tabular grain on foma's official website nowadays. It really is a very unusual film.
>>
>>3110120
hi, does anyone know if it's okay to clean an SLR mirror with alcohol and lens cleaning cloth?
>>
>>3112869
you wanna be careful.. first, unlike a wall mirror, the reflective surface is on the front surface. alcohol isn't going to damage it, but you might fuck around and scratch it. also, the fresnal focusing screen is plastic and alcohol will melt it, so be careful not to get any on it.
>>
>>3112858
Dev'ed a few rolls of Foma 200 this week. Just checked and nothing's floating in my fixer. Never noticed anything - in 135 format at least.
Maybe the 120 version has those problems, haven't tried it out yet.
>>
>>3112874
would the alcohol damage the silvering? steady hands are no problem but im wondering if it will eat through it. Also, i;m talking 70% Isopropyl
>>
>>3112881
Why not dilute with some water if you're not sure?
>>
>>3112833
>Made from _very_ soft metal
They are probably literally designed for repairing Leicas then. Leicautists can't bear to see a scwatch on their pwecious babbies.
>>
>>3112860
So what do you like to dev it in, Slav?
>inb4 ghetto slavinal 1:100 stand
>>
>>3112881
>>3112869
The alcohol isn't the problem, it's the high risk of mechanical damage, even from a cotton bud or something else soft.
Approach with extreme caution, test in a tiny corner first, avoid any areas that show any signs of corrosion or bubbling, if in doubt use MORE alcohol, not less.
>>
>>3112887
http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/instant-mytol.23969/ ghetto xtol 1:1
>>
>>3111674
OM1 ftw. That telelens is shit though, get the Zuiko original. I'd advise you to get the Zuiko 135mm f/3,5 for portraits but the zoom on the right camera can do the same. Jelly as fuck though, although I didn't spend a lot of money on my OM system either, 80 burgerbucks is an absolute steal

Don't listen to >>3111676, don't sell either camera, just use the OM1 and keep the OM2 as a spare. You could even use two films simultaneously if you take two bodies with you.
>>
>>3112860
this is not at all related but why does their graphic design suck so much ass???

like they couldn't shell out $5 on fiverr to have some starving indian make them a better box design

it honest to god looks like it was made in MS paint
>>
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>>3112887

Slap it in caffenol and call it a day

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>>3112923
idk man, I'm not sure ms paint can do gradients
>>
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I really want to shoot MF. why? I don't know and I shouldn't because I suck at photography. But I love big negatives.

Anyone have an arax? Does it work? Sadly the used market here is crap and even the bronicas are overpriced. So the famous brands, Hasselblad, mamiya, bronica, are out of the question.

And really old and busted cameras too because I wouldn't be able to service them.
>>
>>3113034

Might as well start shooting 4x5
>>
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>>3112912
>>3111674
I actually like some of the results from that telephoto, at least the Tamron. Super clear.

Just got back my first roll of film, a lot of shit photos since this is literally my first roll of film and my first attempt taking even half decent photos, but I like some of them.

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>>
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>>3113042

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>>
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>>3113045
this one is crap, but it's at least some of the better crap

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>>
>>3113042 Actually a decent photo, albeit the standard 'field of flowers' photo. Believe it or not, some fgts here struggle to ever surpass this level
>>3113045 The wall is overexposed, try experimenting with the meter areas (the center of the viewfinder counts 'heavier' than the edges). Meter for the sky for instance, so the overall exposure is less and the wall should retain more detail. Not a bad photo though.
>>3113048 Shouldn't have those branches in the foreground, they distract from the subject and are next to impossible to get in focus
>>
>>3112460
literally any tape I can get my hands on, usually gaffers tape
>>
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>>
>>3113064
>Meter for the sky for instance, so the overall exposure is less
Better idea, meter for the shadows, lower exposure two stops, let negative film highlight latitude handle everything above that.
>>
>>3113097
That is indeed a better idea, you should do that
>>
>>3112885
>only an autist would ever want to repair a camera without damaging it
dipshit
>>
So, my local lab just told me they only do 1-stop push on color negative film because more than that and colours start getting fucked up. Are they shitting me, protecting themselves from idiots or is it legitimate? I've read people online claiming they pushed 400 speed film to 1600 no problem.
>>
>>3112511
Thanks I will try that
>>
>>3113154
"1-stop push" is what the lab tells you while charging 6€ more (plus 6€ to do "special processing" to begin with), without changing the process at all. Modern colour negative is good enough for over- and underexposure of 1 EV to be corrected in scanning, which is what they'll do for prints anyway.

Hipster pricing basically. Soup your own, or at least scan your own.
>>
>>3113215
So I just underexpose an 800 roll shooting it at 1600, tell the lab nothing and salvage it scanning it myself? Sounds good, but I need to finally decide on buying a scanner. In any case I'll ask if there's any extra fee.
>>
how not to get discouraged?

I'm using a manual SLR, I've been shooting a lot and improving a lot but I still take a lot of garbage nothing shots and miss a lot of opportunities

sometimes I'm happy with my work and sometimes I want to give up & sell up
>>
Are there any websites or andriod apps i can use as a digital production slate? I don't even need it to look like a clapperboard, I just need something that makes a noise and gives me a visual cue so I can sync up my audio.
>>
>>3113225
It's easy to feel like this, just don't give up. Think about what's good in the shots you're happy with and try to replicate.

In the other hand, you say you miss a lot of opportunities. Are you carrying your camera ready to shoot when you're in the mood? Why are you missing the shoot (composition? exposure? focus?). Maybe you can try using a cheapo roll to practise pre-focusing to ~3-4 meters on a narrow aperture (f/8 or f/11 depending on light) so it's just a matter of point and shoot
>>
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Undecided whether I like these, or not.

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>>
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>>3113257

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>>
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>>3113259
not sure which one is better, this one, or >>3111333

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>>
>>3113257
This one is good
>>3113259
>>3113260
These two are unadultered snapshits
>>
>>3113282
Thanks, what about >>3111333 ?
Got the feeling that 35mm is too wide at that place and went there with a 50mm yesterday. The results are yet to be developed.
>>
>>3113284
It's essentially the same, different angle. Composition and exposure are ok, but there's no point when the subject is imho completely uninteresting and that's what kills the picture.
>>
>>3113288
Ok, thanks again.
>>
>>3112649
Why is it always skies and sunny day landscapes with these IR films? Sure, they give some striking contrasts, but I'd love to see some street or industrial photography with one of those sometime. Maybe I should get a roll myself.
>>
>>3113037
Yeah, you're right. But there is no used large format camera market here. The only one would be that wooden one.

Plus, I'm a shit photographer. Send me your negatives lol.
>>
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Just got back the lab scans for a test roll of Lomo XPro 200 I shot in the park and holy shit it's fucking grainy when cross-processed in C41. Still I got some cool shots.

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>>
Can get a Canon canoscan 9000F for $30AU, I shoot 6x4.5 and 35mm, how would this fare? For $30 probably better than paying for scans.
>>
>>3113372
>lab scans
Found your problem. That looks more like digital noise than film grain.
>>
Is 1600 asa high enough for night time photography? A sports event specifically. Going to an evening baseball game and then I'll probably go to chinatown and take some meme chinatown pics
>>
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>>3113376
During the game there should be plenty of artificial light, so it might be enough. Street scenes at night can also be shot at 1600 if there are streetlights and well lit shop windows (see attached snapshot).

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>>
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>>3113374
I've got other films scanned by them and they're completely alright grain-wise, just low res but I do agree I'll have to eventually shell out for a decent scanner to do it at home. I think it could also be because I intentionally overexposed them as I use to with regular colour negative film, which might not be such a good idea with slides I want to cross proccess. Still I think this film might be cool if you want to get a gritty look even during the day

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>>
>>3113391
>. Still I think this film might be cool
it's really not. it looks like shit 90s digital photo technology
>>
olympus pen F
Rollei Retro 400s pushed to 800

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>>3113434

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>>3113434

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>>3113064
>>3113097
I should also add that was 18 year expired Kodak Gold 200, so who knows what's with the color.
>>
>>3113434

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>>3113434

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>>3113434

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>>3113434

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>>3113438
I found an old roll of Kodacolor Gold 100 lying around my parent's place.
I'll probably shoot that one next.
>>
>>3113373
For thirty quatloos it's fucking wonderful. Quality is good enough for web postan and for a digital contact sheet.

>>3113376
High-speed film doesn't let you shoot during the night. For that you'd need three stops more, i.e. ISO 12800, and the exposures would still be long enough not to handhold. But if there's enough light to play ball, then it'll presumably be at least LV 5 which at ISO 1600 puts you at f/2.8 at 1/60th, good enough for still scenes if you've got a fast tele lens and a tripod. Without those, I wouldn't bother especially if you're just some blowjob in the audience.
>>
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Gonna post more tonight.. trying to get into some architecture stuff. Any thoughts on this one?
>>
>>3113438
There's nothing wrong with the colours actually, as far as I can see
>>
/fgt/ I fucked up. I removed a canister from the camera and managed to roll all the film back inside. I then finished off a roll and when rolling it, also rolled that back inside. Can I give my completed canister to a developer? Will they just crack it open to get the film out? Is there any way to get the film out of my unused canister? I tried rolling it the other way but that didn't work.
>>
>>3113225
Hey man it happens, hell in a roll of 24 that I shoot I'd be damn happy if even 5 of those shots are good, or useable. And to those moments we've lost to bad timing, I'd rather have appreciated good moment, but have lost the opportunity to picture it than not seeing it at all.
>>
>>3113520
there's a tool to pull the leader back out, but you can do it with just another piece of film. check youtube for how to retrieve film leader.
>>
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Are there any commonly available manual half-frames?

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Is the Rollei 35 as fun to shoot as it looks?
>>
>>3113541
No meter, and small but fiddly. Zone focus as well. So it's 100% a no gear, no fear kind of camera. Sadly its reputation makes it too expensive to shoot. Rolleis aren't the most durable of jerry gear in general.

>>3113520
The lab has absolutely no trouble cracking into a film can that's had the leader wound in. Many cameras with motorized rewind definitely don't stop before the lead is fully inside, though I know some compact cameras deliberately leave it out, bless their black little hearts.
>>
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>>3113484
A little flat and bright

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>>
>>3113369
Look too cartier bresson, ansel adams, bruce barnbaum etc for composition and inspiration. Get an Intrepid 4x5" camera.

https://intrepidcamera.co.uk/products/intrepid-camera

Used lenses from ebay. Fujinon and Nikkor are cheap, but still very good.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfujinon+150mm.TRS0&_nkw=fujinon+150mm&_sacat=0

filmholders
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=fujinon+150mm&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfidelity+elite+4x5.TRS0&_nkw=fidelity+elite+4x5&_sacat=0

very cheap shanghai GP3 4x5 film:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=shanghai+film4x5&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=shanghai+film+4x5&_sacat=0
>>
File: rollei35s2.jpg (76KB, 600x450px) Image search: [Google]
rollei35s2.jpg
76KB, 600x450px
>>3113571
>No meter
At least some 35s do have a meter. Even ones you can set up at waist level.

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>>
>>3113571
The rollei actually does have a meter, it's on the top.
it's kind of fun but it's mostly a pain in the ass
>>
>>3113585
Thanks for taking the time comment and post the correction too!
>>
File: DSC_0005s.jpg (344KB, 658x1000px) Image search: [Google]
DSC_0005s.jpg
344KB, 658x1000px
my first attempt with DSLR scan, not impressed, maybe I have to refine my technique.

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>>
File: ST705WSuper20000001.jpg (250KB, 667x1000px) Image search: [Google]
ST705WSuper20000001.jpg
250KB, 667x1000px
>>3113825
It's not as bad as some I've seen, but it could definitely be better.
What is your rig?

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>>
File: comparison.jpg (165KB, 900x442px) Image search: [Google]
comparison.jpg
165KB, 900x442px
>>3113825
Also I can notice a slightly better chromatic rendition with the DSLR and a quite impressive gain in details.
It's a troblemaking frame, I'll try to verify it with a properly exposed one.

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>>
File: rice hut.jpg (921KB, 1489x1000px) Image search: [Google]
rice hut.jpg
921KB, 1489x1000px
>>3113585
>>
File: IMG_20170714_052031.jpg (2MB, 2976x3968px) Image search: [Google]
IMG_20170714_052031.jpg
2MB, 2976x3968px
>>3113831
Something really cheap and crappy that I have built today.
D5100, ai->FD adapter, FD 15 macro tube, FD->m42 adapter and a Helios 77M-4.
I guess I have to make it more simple in the future.
>>
>>3113832

What flatbed was used?

Some of the better flatbeds/dedicated scanners are really fantastic.
>>
>>3113847

When is Epson going to come out with the v900?
>>
>>3113858

They already did, the Epson GT-X980.

Japan only though.
>>
>>3113834
>Helios 77M-4
This is horrifying.
However your resourcefullness should serve as an inspiration to us all.
Please get a real macro lense, and bounce a flash to backlight your film, and hold it in something more stable.
>>
>>3113859

That's just the v850
>>
I've been thinking about getting a medium format system around 500-700€. Any suggestions?
>>
>>3113910

What size are you interested in?
>>
>>3113915
No size preferences
>>
>>3113916

I suggest you read into the different sizes of medium format before you jump into any particular system.
>>
>>3113847
Epson V600
>>3113861
I compulsively grabbed all the stuff I needed for the job and put it together. In the future I'll get a macro lens
>>
>>3113919
I've read quite a bit about the formats and I just cant decide what should I get so thats why I need help.
>>
>>3113922

v600 shouldn't look that shitty.
>>
>>3113926
Not him but I just got one, any tips on getting the most from it?
>>
>>3113924
Are you going to do prints? How big? Because that would be the only point of going 6x7 or 6x9

My guess is that you want to move to medium format for the sake of it, so either 6x4.5 and 6x6 will give you the satisfaction of a much bigger negative than 35mm and won't eat up your film with a handful of shots so the only decission would be the aspect ratio you're more confortable working with
>>
>>3113926
It is that shitty
>>3113928
Not scanning 35 mm. Only medium format.
>>
>>3113953
>>3113928

You'd be better off with an 8200i.
>>
>>3113953
>>3113960
I'll be using it for 35 and 120.
>>
File: chaika2_0234028.jpg (61KB, 537x906px) Image search: [Google]
chaika2_0234028.jpg
61KB, 537x906px
>>3113530
chaika 2
>>
File: DSC_0008s.jpg (884KB, 1000x658px) Image search: [Google]
DSC_0008s.jpg
884KB, 1000x658px
second attempt with DSLR scanning, still not completely satisfied but I noticed something good with that method

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>>
File: comparison2.jpg (638KB, 1150x519px) Image search: [Google]
comparison2.jpg
638KB, 1150x519px
>>3114055
There's basically the complete elimination of grain aliasing, a better resolution and rendition of fine details, better color rendition and most of all less chromatic aberration.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
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>>
>>3114036

That is pretty darned Kawaii.

I just ordered my first rangefinder, hope I don't hate it.
>>
Do circular polarizer filters work well with manual focus lenses on an SLR? I've read all kind of contradicting information.
>>
>>3114063
Which one did you get?
>>
>>3114072
yes, only idjits are incapable of using a polarizing filter on a manual focus lens.
>>
>>3114073

Minolta CLE, wanted one with 40mm lines.
>>
>>3114088
Very nice grab, I'm jelly because I've been looking around for ages now for my first RF but haven't pulled the trigger yet. How much did you shell out for it?
>>
>>3114091

Too much.

〜$500. Has strap and grip(which seems quite rare) though.
>>
>>3114096
By my europoor standards and the prices I've been finding it seems okay actually. Enjoy it, I've heard great things about it.
>>
>>3114058
A couple things--have you put significant effort into calibrating your flatbed? Have you made sure your film is perfectly flat through a method like wet mounting? Based on what you've posted, it doesn't seem that way. The differences you're noticing are illusory. Digital cameras have many built in processes to make images look better to the untrained viewer. They soften images, smooth out blacks, have sharpening masks, etc. You think you've gotten more detail in your dslr scan, but it's not exactly true. To see what I'm talking about, look at the chimney on the left end of the building in the close up. In the dslr scan, you've lost detail. You need to reorient the way you think about scanning. Scanning is re-photography. A flatbed scanner will net you better raw material to work with, but will require more work on your end to get the picture you want. Due to the nature of lenses and sensors, the DSLR is optically weaker than the scanner by far, but already has some of the best digital image processing already built in. If you want the absolute greatest amount of information, use a flatbed (imacon or drum scannign are even better, but far outside most people's price point). If you want something simple that nets you pretty good results and cuts out a lot of work time, go with DSLR scanning. Personally, though, I find DSLR scanning to completely ruin the whole point of shooting film to begin with. At that point, you're really only using the film as a complicated and expensive texture overlay., because you're taking the much larger image size of film plus it's great dynamic range, and forcing it back into the constraints of a DSLR. If you really want to capture the full dynamic range and image size of film, you need to use a flatbed, imacon, or drum scanner. This is even more true for medium and large format. It's the only way you will be able to capture a 1:1 digital copy of your film negative.
>>
File: JWebxPJ.jpg (3MB, 3360x5040px) Image search: [Google]
JWebxPJ.jpg
3MB, 3360x5040px
>>3114097

I was hoping it'd arrive in time for Gion Matsuri, but it doesn't look like it will.

Will make sure to shitpost about it when it finally arrives.
>>
File: 14A_00054.jpg (3MB, 2400x1600px) Image search: [Google]
14A_00054.jpg
3MB, 2400x1600px
Hell yes lads, just bought a Ricoh GR1s date for £120, keep it or sell it? Pic unrelated

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>>
>>3114098
Thanks for you answer Anon, I tried every way to adjust my flatbed scanner, not the wet mounting, too much mess and time spent. Actually that's a pretty big crop, it's normal to get a poor resolution and in my opinion I find more detail in the DSLR chimney, look closely. I perfectly know that the purpose of analog photography isn't scanning, I print with an enlarger when I can and that's what I consider the orthodox way, I also like to have it scanned or reproduced (basically scanning equals reproduction) on my computer, so I can easily share it with my friends and on social medias. Drum scanners are expensive as fuck, this method costs me less than 3€. Also there's no authomatic adjustment, I post produce the image by myself until it looks like the analog print, that's it. I'll show you later the intermediate steps of this process.
>>
>>3114112
The problem is not one of resolution. It's one of focus and post processing. The chimney on the DSLR scan looks clener, but actually has less detail. The lines are beginning to break apart. This is compared to the flatbed where the lines are still strong, but blurry, because the depth of field of a flatbed scanner is incredibly small. Also, I didn't mean not to scan film. At this point it is really the only reasonable way of producing color prints. What I mean is that a DSLR lens is inherently optically inferior to a flatbed. Sensors are continuing to improve on DSLRs, but they are still much smaller than a flatbed, which creates an exact 1:1 digital image. The flatbed glass in a good scanner (like epson v850) has minimal distortion, whereas each lens has its own unique distortion, which is fine for taking photos with, but means your "scan" will have a second lensing effect put on it. The benefits you're seeing are from the camera software, which blends images, and "enriches" blacks ot make them look nicer "out of the box". As I said, if you want something cheap and easy that doesn't take much time, it's fine. It sounds like that's what you want.
>>
>>3114115
It doesn't enrich blacks since there is no black in the negatives, color negatives have low contrast and even when you convert it to positive it's really greyish. Exactly, that's what I need for my purposes. Thanks again for the clarifications.
>>
>>3113436
can i get some critique on my shots?
>>
>>3114121
By enrich blacks, what I mean is that the program adjusts the information content in pixels in areas where there is a high concentration of "dark". Because digitals sensors have issues with getting accurate information from low light, the computer side of the camera "anticipates" this and ignores certain data and blends other data to make up for the noise that would otherwise occur. Also, there are certainly blacks in the negative. You just can't see it with the naked eye. To you, it looks like the color of the film plus the full color of the emulsion. But when light passes through the film, this will block light, which is received as black by the camera, since it recorded no light. Don't think about this process from your perspective, but from the perspective of the light recording surfaces, which are the sensor and the film. For all the "processing" I'm saying the camera does, our brain does millions of times over. Cameras are very simple machines and to get exactly what you want to you need think the way they do.
>>
>>3114127
Sometimes the lack of response is the critique. Nothing negative really to respond to, but nothing exceptional that demands comment either. Not totally generic, but don't really get a sense ye of anything original. A mix of some decent formalism; some observational photos that are visually fine, but without compelling context; and some social commentary that doesn't really feel like it's saying anything.

Keep taking pictures. Keeping looking at great work that makes you think more about the craft. Be harder on yourself without giving up.
>>
File: r001-007.jpg (622KB, 1004x1483px) Image search: [Google]
r001-007.jpg
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Hello /fgt/s, i need an advice from my fellow hipsters, recently i've been shooting with a Nikon FG, it's my first SLR camera, but i recently had an issue with the focus of the photos, i'm not sure if the viewfinder is too small or i need a new pair of glasses...
i've been doing some research to get a new camera with the next specs:

> -Larger viewfinder
> -DOF button
> -Exposure compensation dial
> -Inexpensive Lens
> -BUDGET

and i came across with these options:

>- Nikon F401x - Body Only (Repair Shop) (33,5 USD)
>-Nikon F90x - 28-15, battery grip (Pawn Shop) (85 USD)
>-Olympus OM-1 - 50mm, broken light meter (Repair Shop) (65 USD)
>- Minolta x570 - 50mm (Camera Shop) (70 USD)

So, wich one is the real deal?
should i stick with the FG and get a new glasses instead?

(BTW i live in a 3rd world country, so the prices listed above are multiplied for 3 in local money
thank you.)

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
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>>
>>3114169
Are you sure the picture you posted exhibits missed focus rather than motion blur, e.g. because of long shutter speed and shooting handheld?

Anyway, I'd say the OM-1 is a solid option, if the repair shop has maintained it. If you can meter somehow, or are good at guestimating, the entire line is superb in the prism department. However, the F90x is also cash, and works with your existing lenses. The F-401x won't be bad, but the three-figured F series was always (beside the F-8xx ones) the kind of camera you buy before you buy a proper camera. "The poor man pays twice" and so forth.

Minoltas break.
>>
I'm interested in building this MF kit,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Gaoersi-6x7-6x9-6x12-Multi-Format-Professional-Panorama-Wide-Angle-Camera-/

Which lens would be recommended for it?
>>
>>3114169

F90x or X-570.

Though keep in mind, the X-570 has no exposure compensation dial. Decent price on it though. If you eant a Minolta, get an XD/XD-7/XD-11. Pretty awesomr manual body.

F90x has relatively speefy autofocus. Compared to the 401 at least.

Skip the OM-1, trash without a meter.

F-401 is a solid camera (I have a 501), but the F90x is better.
>>
File: hp5-cc.jpg (364KB, 1024x834px) Image search: [Google]
hp5-cc.jpg
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just developed my first roll of 120, feels good

>phone 'scan'
>>
>>3114527

you gotta get a v800
>>
>>3113530
Aгaт 18/Agat 18k
>>
Anyone used Velvia 100F? I'm going on holiday tomorrow and ordered some Ektar but it hasn't arrived on time and my local sells Velvia.
>>
>>3114821
>>3114821
>>3114821
>>
>>3112632
I love these.
Thread posts: 333
Thread images: 86


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