>Old Thread >>3066501
>This is the Film General Thread: "This shit aint going nowhere" Edition.
>This is a place to post about anything film related. Processing, scanning, developing, gear, etc is all fair game. Let's fill this thread with images so please include an image with your post.
>Have fun! Remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.
>Any post without an image attached should be ignored because the poster is obviously incompetent.
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>>3073582
Where is a good place to get film developed? I usually just use Walmart at this point but I'm sure my photos would probably look better if I got them properly developed
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>>3073584
>lens front element touching the filthy focus rubber of that shitty 3rd party zoom
>the rear element touching the filthy bag wall
>>3073582
recent portrait
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Adding a trip bc these threads are cozy, i was anon towards end of last thread.
Anyway I shot 4 rolls of cheapo fuji xtra 400 on a pentax zx60 with a 70-300 f4-5.6 at a track meet. I thought I wouldn't like shooting film but the way I was forced to limit myself was amazing and I loved it.
Sorry for the blog btw, but it inspired me enough that I bought a Nikon l35af and 5 rolls velvia 100. What am I in for now?
>>3073666
>What am I in for now?
medium format or half frame, either are kino. your choice, satan.
>>3073584
Develop them yourself. It literally takes no time and you can have full control on your negatives/slides.
>>3073596
>lens front element touching the filthy focus rubber of that shitty 3rd party zoom
Jokes on you that zoom lens is so shitty that the focus rubber is actually plastic
>>3073695
Where do I develop them myself?
>>3073707
In your house. Buy D76 developer, fixer, and a Paterson film developer tank and get to it.
Just developed my first roll in 12 years! I bought a full kit of developing supplies today. did two rolls of Tri-X400 in rodinal!
>feelsgoodman.jpg
>>3073711
Welcome back to the dark side /p/hrendo
>>3073710
>Paterson
For whatever reason I really hate their plastic reels. It's really hard to mount 120 film on their reels but I can do it without any issues on AP reels.
>>3073774
Plastic reels are awful shit. Metal reels for life.
>>3073783
Well it's slightly harder to mount film on metal reels but at least you don't need to care about the moisture on the reel.
>>3073670
I was talking more about the l35af and velvia friend! But I'm sure I will slowly slip down that drain as well, and also is it worth buying expired film from people on Craigslist?
>>3073910
Also why did clover remove my trip >:(
has anyone tried Maco direct developing kit?
https://www.macodirect.de/en/chemistry/black-white-chemistry/film-developing/film-developer/5623/maco-eco-kit-universal-processing-chemistry-3x-1l
its much cheaper than the other dev kits thought of purchasing it.
>>3073615
Was this taken on a Hassy 500?
>>3073919
You're not using a tripcode, just a name.
Lurk more newfriend, and stop posting blogshit.
Gonna cop a Tetenal C41 kit when I finish this university semester, any advice on colour developing? I'm very acquainted with developing B&W
Also anyone have experience with Kodak ProImage 100? I can get it cheap as chips, want some cheap film while I learn C41 processing
>>3073927
thats 4x5
>>3073584
Probably developed just fine, it is just their scanners suck dildos.
>>3073774
I've only used 35mm film with mine so that might be a legitimate criticism, I truly have no idea. It works great for 35mm film though.
I don't really get the home dev thing unless you don't have access to a lab. I get mine done for £3 per roll with a 20-minute turnaround then scan them myself. I know they'll never fuck it up whereas I could.
>>3074028
Practice
>>3073927
Yes
>>3073958
No, it is not.
>>3074028
>I know they'll never fuck it up whereas I could.
>I know they'll never fuck it up
>I know
>I know
So did I. That was until my slides came back with drying marks all over the film.
Also, home development is a lot cheaper. Especially black and white. Rodinal, HC-110, pyro developers last forever, and can be diluted a lotto last even longer.
>>3073958
>can see 6x6 film border
>thats 4x5
wew
New camera. Will post Natura 1600 results in a day or two.
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>>3074107
tight as hell bitch
>>3074101
since when does 6x6 have the two little notches at the top?
>>3074114
Hasselblads put notches on the side, which is obviously visible. All 6x6 cameras ive seen do those lil notches at the top.
Nub
>>3074107
Awww I love this camera tho never tried it, I've been holding back from buying it
>>3074107
I have some Natura 1600 in my camera now.
Been tempting to go blow it all, but waiting for grandpaw to come to town.
>>3074124
are you Japan anon that shoots and posts a bunch of slide film?
>>3074126
yessir.
>>3074124
I don't like that you have no manual controls and the af is slow :(
That's what I was told anyway, if it's no slower than a Mju ii then I wouldn't mind it
>>3074128
You a Westerner? I've been to Japan a couple times to ski but I'd really love to live there for a little bit, so any general advice?
My sister is getting a job over there from early November until whenever the ski season ends so I'm thinking of crashing with her for a bit then staying for a couple months after she leaves
>>3074131
Is the AF slow? If it's T4 slow I'll sell it after a few rolls. If it's as fast as a MJU II I'll probably shoot all of the Ektachrome 320T I have on it before selling.
>>3074133
Yeah I'm a Westerner. Easiest way (and one of the only ways unless you have gud Japanese) is to teach English. I wouldn't recommend living here tho desu(country is pretty assbackwards). A ski season would be a good length of time tops.
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>>3074131
The natura S AF is slow ? I have one and it is one of the if not the fastest focusing AF cameras i have owned and i have owned a lot
>>3074135
What do you do for work in japan??
>>3074141
英語の先生です
>>3074148
Another living-in-nippon guy here.
I am so sorry to hear that.
Through something like JET?
>>3074153
Yep JET. Honestly it's fun as hell and I'm at a great school. There's just no future in it. Decent way to spend a few years in a different country saving money tho. 30 days of vacation, 37hrs/week of work is a damn easy life.
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/fgt/s, /fgt/s, I think I've discovered something nice (for myself anyway), and would like to share it. Tl;dr -- assemblyline film processing using multiple tanks and two-bath fixing. I mean literally pouring dev into the second tank two minutes after pouring the first, and agitating them 30 seconds apart. Then pouring the first tank's dev out, stop in, while the other one develops, etc.
Oh the subversive giggle I had finding out that I could actually just pour stop, old fixer, and new fixer, just from one tank to another and then into the right bottle at the end. Six 35mm rolls in half an hour; clearly achievable with an eight reel tank as well, but I haven't got one now do I.
>>3074156
Yea, I have a few friends here doing JET and Interac, they love it. One is trying to extend past the three year limit.
I wish I had a solid schedule and income like my JET friends. Grad school goes from weeks of laid back study to weeks of paniced preperation for presentations and proposals. I do teach English to university students on the side which helps. I don't know how it is for you, but four 90 minute classes in a row is absolute killer.
I only recently started shooting film (and photography in general really), but I have really enjoyed it so far. Helps that I am in a beautiful city. Though at times it feels like I am just taking generic tourist pictures.
>>3074157
Great job anon, u get an A for the day!
>>3074164
>four 90 minute classes in a row
Lol, I teach three 50 minute classes a day. Full-on easymode. Where abouts in Japan are you? Make sure you take advantage of e6 film while living here, damn affordable.
>>3074167
God damn, that must be nice. I keep falling asleep on the bus ride home. Last time I did it, the driver had to wake me up at the last stop.
I live in Kyoto. It is full of temple-ey and Japanese-ish stuff like pic related. I love the city, but it can be way too touristy certain times of the year.
I have yet to try e6. I hear it is a lot less forgiving than simple Superia 400. Is there a type you would recommend?
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Walp, novice here. I finally printed my first two /film/ rolls and a jarring difference between them is that, while the first ones are technically decent, most of the pictures in the second batch have awful focus, some of them basically looking like indiscernible blurs. IIRC, I accidentally dropped my camera bag a few days before shooting on that second roll, and while there are no external damages I can't help but wonder if my rangefinder was misaligned. If that's the case then how the fuck do I fix it? Can it be recalibrated somehow or is the camera basically dun goofed?
It might also be worth noting that the first roll was entirely shot outside with fast shutter speeds and small F values while most of the second roll was shot on interiors and poorly lit places that had me constantly changing settings which eventually also had an impact on my ability to properly shoot those second pictures, but I'm too paranoid to assume that was the only issue. My camera is a FED 3, by the way - pic related.
Shot some ATO 2.1 today. Hopefully it'll be better than last time. Pic sadly related.
Apart from everything else, the backing paper printing somehow rubbed off onto the film. Stored moistly maybe, I don't know. I just hope it's not all the rolls because I bought like ten of them. Ah well.
ISO 25. Rodinal 1+100
Rollei IR400 with a 720nm IR filter
>>3074253
Rangefinder alignment is pretty easy to check, just measure out a distance and use the focus scale on the lens to see if it's lining up. If it's actually misaligned I don't know how easy a DIY fix is, but servicing it will cost more than the camera did.
Are you sure you weren't just shooting with slow ass shutter speeds and blurring from camera shake?
>>3074180
>Is there a type you would recommend?
Not him, but try some Provia 400X for general stuff, Velvia 100 for landscapes, and if you can find some, T64 Type II for long exposure night stuff.
All these films have to my knowledge any reciprocity failure up to 1 minute.
Most slide films should not exceed +2 EV or -2.5 EV. That gives you an incredible dynamic range of 5 stops.
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>>3074263
How do you like working with IR?
Tried some some myself in 6x9 last week. Found that it was a completely new and fresh way of thinking. To anyone who feels they are stagnating in B&W, try some IR with a Hoya R72 filter.
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All the different cameras have different notches or gaps in the corners, so you can differentiate them. I think only Yashicas are true squares. I used to own a hasselblad back with custom notches on the other side so I knew which back was which, but its gone now.
I've got a new series of stuff from Ireland I'll share soon, in a separate thread.
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>>3074291
>>3074253
Dropping the camera more than likely knocked the finder out of whack. The other Anon's check is sensible. Luckily there's a super easy fix for soviet rfs: to align close focus, use tweezers to rotate the small arm head inside the lens mount. To align infinity, which is more likely the problem, there'll be a screw on the front of the camera which you unscrew and remove revealing a smaller screw inside, which in turn can be screwed one way or the other. Easiest way is stick the cam on a tripod, point it at a bright, distinct faraway object (like a star) then twiddle the screwdriver until you match up.
>>3073954
>if yer photos suck it's prob your fault
This is definitely the case most of the time. I was just wondering how much of a difference it makes depending on where I get my film developed
>>3074310
Wow, thats nice!
>>3074291
>>3074327
That does appear to be it, thank you very much my fellow negroes! I tried the 1 meter test and the focus really was way off, been reading some pretty useful pages (http://jay.fedka.com/index_files/Page422.htm and https://tomtiger.home.xs4all.nl/zenrep/calibration.html) and the tweezers trick seems to be effective in changing the calibration, although I still haven't been able to exactly align it correctly since the damn thing is so stiff. It's gonna be trial and error until it works, I guess. As for the infinity, which inevitably has also been affected after messing around with the arm head, will I have to buy a 1,5mm screwdriver for that? I can't even see the smaller screw, it must be absurdly tiny.
>>3074335
Yeah, you'll need a set of precision tools. Can be found for cheap online and definitely a good investment if you plan on keeping up the hobby (I disassembled both my industar lenses to fix various focus/aperture issues by sight alone and had no problems, found it quite fun).
>>3074291
My rangefinder they add up distance wise but the rangefinger patch image is on top so its like double vision height wise.
>>3074337
Alright, guess I'll look for it then. Thanks!
Oh, and here are some of my first digitalized snapshits. Not too much composition since most of them were just me trying out the camera during my routine but I guess the Fuji aesthetic does please me. And jesus fucking christ, I didn't realize how dirty these lens were, sorry if those specs of dust in every single photo makes them unbearable.
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>>3074337
>>3074339
And yey, I finally got the close range all correct by twitzing the arm head, which basically turned the infinity into a massive blur. Guess I'll have to urgently get that 1.5mm screwdriver then.
Any workaround to make the camera usable for now? I really like shooting large decadent buildings and have been thinking about doing an entire gallery of that for a collaborative college exhibit, will keeping my focus in infinity do the trick?
>>3074339
Shame about the dust, still turned out a hell of a lot better than my first rf snaps. Light leaks, scratches, mottling, perforation marks and chewed up ends.
>>3074351
>will keeping my focus in infinity do the trick?
Yep. Unfortunately fiddling with the arm can mess up infinity so if you want to commit to architecture/landscapes until you get the tools just use the arm to get infinity right.
I just took my first film reel out of my camera, i opened up the hatch to watch it cause i was following some tutorial and the guy did the same thing. I realized that might have been a bad idea afterwards.
Is the film messed up? All my blinds are closed and I'm in a dark room at the moment.
It's the Fujifilm Fujicolor PRO 400H Professional Color Negative Film
>>3074358
?
I was taking the film out of the camera, you know with the reverse knob thingy. And I wasn't sure if it was actually coming out, so I opened it up like the guy in the video and reversed it while the back was open.
I'm wondering if it messes it up.
Isn't this the film thread? I have a Canon ae-1
>>3074355
If the film got exposed to any light it's dilled m8. Use your head next time haha
>>3074365
Oh shoot even if I had the blinds all closed it's toast? Ya i guess the guy in the tutorial was just showing that for an example.
>>3074361
You destroyed it. I opened back of my camera by accident for a second tops and it destroyed 1/4th of the photographs (thank god they were all snapshits). By rewinding your film with cover opened you exposed every frame to sunlight and you destroyed any information that was saved on them. Just treat it as a lesson and toss the roll into the rubbish bin.
>>3074368
Haha alright, I guess I'll have to be more careful next time. Ya common sense alluded me at that moment.
>>3074353
Thanks, guess that will do for now then! Do I really have to "reprogram" the arm again for architectural photography though or can I just keep the focus in there until I get the tools? I mean, it was a bit of a hassle to finally get the close range right.
Am i doing it right guys? This is my 2nd roll I just put it in.
>>3074380
engage your sprockets better.
>>3074380
yes.
>>3074380
Read the manual. You can find old camera manuals online easily.
>>3074387
I did, but I like the community aspect of the board so I figured i'd ask on here.
>>3074253
The camera has been broken the whole time, and also you failed to focus correctly.
Why'd you buy a Russian camera, in spite of every shred of advice telling you not to?
It's really fucking easy to tell if your RF is working, btw.
Focus on something, then get a fucking tape measure and see if the distance matches what's on the lense.
Also, kill yourself.
>>3074180
Lived in Kyoto last year, know what you man about tourists at certain times of the year. I'm enjoying Mie much more.
For e6 try Provia 400X or 100F
>>3074369
Everyone makes at least 1 dumb mistake no worries buddy! Do it again and yer and idiot tho.
>>3074497
>Fucking capitalist cykas, still as impulsive as they were in Vietnam.
You have a capitalist computer and get the bullet too, Yuri Kulak.
>>3074351
Yeah, you can zone focus using the scale on the side of the lens. At the same time I heavily question whether it was actually the RF mechanism that was fucked; I've got a Fed 3 myself and the worst problem is setting shutter speeds correctly. That's to say: sometimes 1/60s comes out as 1/15s and vice versa because of play in the shutter speed knob. Soviet stuff without the slow speeds is so much nicer in this regard.
>>retard doesn't know how to load the film so the emulsion faces out
I caught it before I developed and let it go a little longer hoping it would push the film.. looks like it turned out okay
Im looking to buy a camera/kit in 1000-1500$ range for amateur film making. Preferably with good low light shooting, any help?
>>3074554
>redscaling black and white
Fucking hipsters, man
>>3074559
we are taking over and ruining everything you ever loved
>>3074558
Wrong kind of film, genius. Did you even read the thread?
Also buy a BMPCC, spend the rest on glass and sound gear.
>>3074497
>pay 1k for a leica, 300 for a lens and another 300 for a cla
>or pay 20 for slavshit, fix it up yourself, and get something equally capable of taking great photos
>>3074589
>spend money on cameras to make photos nobody else cares about and you'll probably never look at again
>or spend money on experiences and make memories
>>3074589
>be on vacation with slavshit as your only camera when something jams or the shutter curtain breaks
speaking from experience, FSU cameras often work fine. until they don't.
>>3074310
Agree entirely. It's a nice way to view the world differently and get out of a rut.
And it can look both beautiful and very very different from what we normally see. Summertime is IR time as far I'm concerned.
I have a converted Nikon D70s which I need to get out of storage too. I just wish PS could handle the raws from it, but it doesn't work well with white balances set as cold as what I want from digital IR, so I shoot jpg
Best place to bring an old film camera for a CLA/repair in Japan?
This infatuation with Soviet stuff is kind of silly. None of them will ever be anything but an oldfashioned, countercultural lo-fi option. A tier above Holgas and compacts. Shooting them as a sole camera is asking for them to break; like driving a Trabant, you'd best bring your field repair materials and tools with you because that rally cardboard ain't gonna stay put. (That being said, my Fed 2 and Zorki have been nothing but wholly reliable down to -10°C; haven't tried below.)
But, alongside a hi-fi camera, it's nice to be able to switch gears to an all-manual piece of shit just to prove that yeah, the camera matters very little in comparison to everything else that goes into a picture. Soviet stuff needs a backup however, and that'd best not be another Soviet camera. Like, take a Holga with you as well or something.
>>3074584
Reminder that it's more economical to shoot film as a cinematic format if it exceeds $25,000
>>3074620
Arguably true, but last time I checked 1500 is less than 25000.
>>3074611
Aogashima
>>3074606
Don't know what it is with color IR, but it worked really well to just convert it.
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>>3074654
this makes my penis the big penis
>>3074665
It's a landscape. I'm not saying it's a great one, but saying it's "of nothing" is just stupid. Most likely you just don't like the guy who posted it and decided to be a salty little bitch.
What would you shoot with an IR camera if not clouds and trees? A person maybe? I've done that as well. With a likewise IR-converted SB 600 flash. Enjoy.
>>3074687
IR crackwhores, holy shit.
Been shooting on my gfs Nikon FM, and holy fuck it's the most pure and honest photography experience. I've got a Nikon FE, so I've been lusting after that when I get back. Nikon made great film cameras.
>>3074687
Or a horse
>>3074689
I found her in a pub after I'd been out doing some night shots. She said she'd been there since 10 AM and I found no reason to disbelieve her.
>>3074164
What cammy cam did you take this snappy snap with friend?
>>3074704
Minolta X-500 & 35-70mm f/3.5 Macro w/ Superia 400 X-tra
>>3074705
ncie.
>>3074687
wew, and you're calling me a salty little bitch. Obviously "of nothing" wasn't implied in a literal sense, I'm saying it's a uninteresting photo with no redeeming qualities whatsoever other than "muh infrared". Ask yourself "if this was in colour/b&w, would this be interesting?", and the answer would be no. Like I said, just because it's an infrared photo doesn't mean you can exclude light/shapes/pattern/composition/subject/whatever and still expect a good photo
>Most likely you just don't like the guy who posted it
>posts as anon
I have no idea who you are, that's a fucking stupid theory and a lame excuse to think for someone to not like your photo
>>3074687
>>3074692
These two are much better than the first. I'd say get closer to the horses next time but it looks like there was a fence, maybe crop in a little, at least to remove the distracting fence shadow if anything
>>3074692
Damn i like this, nice idea
Got some film from Poundland lol
how's this
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Looking at sending film to be developed in the mail instead of going local due to a lot of the labs in the Houston area being pretty pricey and a bit of a drive for me.
No scanner or dslr, so I don't see any point in developing myself for the time being.
I've finished 4-5 rolls that I wanted processed and put onto a CD or something. No need for prints since I'm just now getting into shooting film.
I'm currently thinking about Dark Room or Old School Photo Lab. Anyone use either of these places, or recommend any place that might be better/cheaper?
Anyone here good at maths? I need some help.
I want to scan film using my fuji xpro2, so i'm looking for extension tubes.
In the past using my nikon setup, I had a couple of extenders and old manual glass, and it was fine once I got the right combination.
Now, I can't test the fuji tubes if they work or not. Minimun focusing distance, distance to the film, all that jizz. I can't calculate this stuff.
I own the 23mm and 35mm f2 lenses. Considering the fuji is apsc, what magnification would I need to fill the frame with the negative?
>>3074770
Would have been better with straight edges.
How do you guys like Ektar? Is it nice to work with?
>>3074951
I was never a big fan. It seems aimed at producing an extremely neutral image, like a JPEG out of a DSLR, and that's not really what I use film for.
>>3074795
I used The Dark Room recently. The scans are just standard minilab stuff, oversharpened with grain that's shot all to hell, but they're okay, and the service is fast. My scans came out to be 6MP.
Ilford's film processing service is run by The Darkroom.
Richard Photo Lab are a bit more expensive but not a huge leap in quality, at least for B&W.
>>3074988
How many rolls did you send in, and how much did it end up costing for you?
The price listing on their website is kinda unclear to me
>>3074998
One roll, $23 total.
$15 processing + $8 return shipping.
>>3074999
Jesus Christ that's expensive.
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>>3074834
I would adapt your Nikon kit.
Fuji's system really isn't cut out for technical work.
>>3075034
Fuji's glass is SO much sharper than my old nikon primes man.
I might get a cheap nikon adapter and be done with it for now, but I would like to try fuji glass.
>>3074999
fuck, was that Dark Room or Richard's?
>>3074999
$15 is baseline price here in NYC and for any of the online labs I can find.
>>3075053
Darkroom. Richard's is more.
What are /fgt/'s opinions on dilutions for selenium toners? I'm mixing dark room chemistry and I'm doubting whether I should go for a very strong or a milder dilution
>>3073582
whats /faget/ opinion on D23 dev?
>>3075096
Use D76
>>3075034
The difference would be negligible
>>3075115
WHAT IS YOUR FUCKING OPINION ON D23 YOU BRUTAL FAGGOT
>>3075117
THAT IT IS INFERIOR TO D76 SINCE IT IS BASICALLY D76 WITHOUT BORAX AND HYDROQUINONE WHICH AID DEVELOPING SO USING D23 MAKES NO SENSE AT ALL YOU FLAMING COCKMONGER
>>3075118
REEEEEEEEE THEN WHY PEOPLE ADVISE IT IT AS SOME SORT OF IDEAL FILM FOR CORRECTING THE EXTREME CONTRAST OF LOW ASA FILM, ARE THEY RETARDED FAGGOTS TOO?
>>3075121
YES THEY ARE
After seeing some of the other replies in the thread on sending film to get developed, i'm really considering saving up and investing in a scanner and my own chemicals.
And I like that it'll give me something fun to work on over the summer.
I'm looking at the Epson v600 or 550, whichever one I can find cheaper online. Other than the scanner, developing tank, and chemicals, what else do I absolutely need for my own development?
Amber bottles? Some kind of thermometer and water heater? Some sort of clips to hang dry the film or something to wipe the wet film clean? Hope I'm not overthinking this whole thing.
>>3075122
JESUS SHITTING CHRIST ON A WHEELCHAIR WHAT DO I NEED THEN TO DEVELOP WITH EXTREME LOW CONTRAST I WANT ONLY GRAY SHIT WITH GRAY SHIT ON TOP
>>3075123
Just for getting into it, you basically only need the chemicals and the developing tank. Fixer is reusable but you can just store it in an empty soda bottle. Developer is just thrown away, but it is advised to store it in empty bottles and bring it away as toxic waste to whatever place collects that where you live.
A cheap thermometer is also handy, but with black and white (you are doing b/w, right?) you can do without the water heater, just let the faucet run and add cold/hot water until you reach 20C, but don't panic if you're off by 1 or 2 degrees, as it's not that critical. I just use clothes pins to hang them up to dry
>>3075123
Don't need amber bottles but might as well
If you also cook consider getting a laser thermometer, also it's fun
Microwave/tap is water heater
Regular clothes pins with clothes hangers will do
Get a cheap film squeegee, though fingers will do in a pinch
>>3075125
I have more color rolls than b/w, so i was probably going to start with color. Is b/w more forgiving as far as the temperatures or what?
>>3075129
Yes, the C41 process needs 38C and rather constant at that. You can achieve this by filling a large body of water, like a sink, with water of that temperature (make it on the high side of 38C to compensate for cooling somewhat) and keep your chemicals and developing tank in that bath (closed bottles ofc) until everything is the same temperature. Then start the process.
Although you might want to look up a more detailed tutorial, as I do mainly b/w.
>>3075129
Unless you're going for a hipster look practice with b&w ya dingus
>>3075123
>Some sort of clips to hang dry the film or something to wipe the wet film clean?
photo flo and clean fingers to act as a squeegee. don't use an actual squeegee, one bit of dirt or anything that gets stuck in the squeegee will result in a nice scratch down your entire roll
>>3074156
What's up, loser
>>3075142
Do I no u?
Anyone here have any experience with Ektachrome 320T?
>>3075132
>Yes, the C41 process needs 38C and rather constant at that.
You can also use 30C and 8 min develop time, 6 min blix and longer rinse. There are instructions for this in Tetenal's C-41 kit. Pic related, 30C
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>>3075227
Nice results! I didn't know you could get the same results whilst deviating from. the prescribed temperature. However, for the sake of clarity towards that other anon, the temperature should be constant at whatever value you choose. So if you go for 30C, it should remain 30C throughout the process
>>3075124
Pyrocat-HD.
>>3075227
Very nice. What film?
>>3075233
Fuji Pro 160S
>>3075124
Neofin Blau.
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>>3075244
aus??
I am a total noob but im trying to git guud. I just started shooting 35 again after years. I have a Nikon F75 (Or N in america, i think) with a kit 28-100 lens. I develop my own film an shoot mostly Tri-X and Tmax. Any gear suggestions? Im buying an epson v600 so i can post some pics and get my ass handed to me by you guys!
accidentally shot a roll of apx 400 at iso-all over the place, due to sloppy dx hacking, tried to salvage with a stand dev, thought that it would be a total shitshow, but im kinda happy with the results..
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>>3075345
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>>3075350
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>>3075353
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>>3074339
sao paulo?
>>3074999
thats pretty expensive considering cvs or whatever does $12/roll
>>3075365
Fuck.
600円 a roll at Yodobashi.
Just bought a fed 2. What am I in for? How do I know what to do with my asa?
>>3075396
Either a working camera of great soviet man, or a paperweight. You put your ASA figure in whatever light meter you're using, or the sunny 16 method. Don't change shutter speed before winding to a new frame, and remember to take the lens cap off.
>Living in 3rd world shithole
>Film is completely dead here
>Want to shoot film
What to do? Help
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>>3075409
Buy a scanner and import dev supplies and bulk film in 100' rolls.
I can only find Provia 400X for $20 a roll.
Is that a ripoff?
>>3075412
Where to buy cheap bulk film 100'?
>>3075439
Freestyle Photo is good for that. They're in California, but I don't know what their international shipping is like. There are probably some Euro sources for it too.
>>3075418
in japan, yes probably, dont know really. everywhere else, nah.
Any particular reason why one should shoot black/white instead of color?
Seems like it'd be better for beginners, but bw film as well as bw processing seems to be more expensive.
>>3075481
Infinitely easier developing and (especially) printing
More artistic freedom in the printing process
You can control basically everything with b/w printing, given a skilled dark room printer, your skill is really the limit, you can dodge/burn, adjust contrast etc. With colour, you can only print, adjust colour balance and hope for the best. Exaggerated, maybe, but that's the basic gestalt of it.
>>3075481
bw developing and optical printing can be done at home much easier
>>3075418
Yes, ripoff. Where do you live?
>>3075630
Japan, can't seem to find it for sale anywhere.
>>3075655
For 35mm that's the general going rate. 120 is much cheaper.
>>3075662
Ahhh okay, I should have specified. Looking for 35mm.
I don't have a 120 camera. Yet...
>>3075409
buy shit ton of film
buy a film scanner or do up a dslr rig
buy developing/darkroom kit there is an affordable one on ebay
buy dev, stop, fix, wetting.
Which turd world shit hole are you from anon
tested my new Rollei today. works like a charm.
streeting with a TLR needs way more pre planning for the shot than i thought, its cumbersome and has its own methodology, but its fun.
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I'm processing my first 3 rolls, 1 of which was exposed to some sun, but i'm curious the results anyway.
Should I get prints or enhanced scans? I got some really neat photos and I'd like them to come out the best possible.
>>3073956
Watch your chemical temperatures, agitate often. In my experience I've almost always have had color casts when developing above 85° F
>>3075711
I find people are quite intrigued when I'm shooting with my Yashica Mat on the street. It makes a good convo started and I find that people are more likely to say yes to a portrait because of the charming look of the camera.
>>3075662
Was production of it stopped or something?
Worth stocking up?
>>3075680
>mfw there is no eBay and PayPal here
>mfw shipping cost is up to 15$
And
>P-Pakistan
>>3075772
>there is no eBay and PayPal here
lol
>$15
decent price.
how much do you earn monthly?
>>3075772
you cant sneak into India and smuggle in chems?
Hey guys, I accidentally opened the back of my Pentax 67 before winding all the film back onto the spool (all exposures were taken, I just forgot to wind it all on), will the first few photos taken on the roll be okay?
Is the Leica M5 the best Leica? Was it just hated on by autistic Leica normies because it was different looking?
>>3075794
It depends how long you had it opened for but they are most likely ruined
>>3075655
Where in japan can you still buy 400x?
>>3075844
Amazon has some by third party sellers, but it is jacked up a bit.
Can I do street photography with a Mju II?
>>3075874
Of course
>>3075886
Teach me daddy.
Ok so this is a pretty dumb question but I just bought my first ever film camera and roll of film today. The film's an ultrafine xtreme 400 and the guy I bought it from said that it was "rendered to iso 100". I don't remember exactly what he said and i'm not sure if it makes sense. Is what he said the same as pulling the iso, and if so, if that even possible to do before I shot the film. Please help a newfag out.
What's the best light meter app?
This is the lightmeter app I have. I hit "measure" but I don't understand what it's telling me to do
>>3075915
They all do the same thing find the one you like the most and use that
>>3075923
Top numbers = aperture
numbers in the ring = shutter speed
pretty simple
>>3075926
I know what the numbers mean but which apeture/speed is it telling me to do. There's no indicator
>>3075930
Any of the options.
>>3075930
Any of them. If you wanna shoot a specific aperture/shutter speed use the other setting it's pointing to.
>>3075921
I will give it a shot.
A single roll of 400x cost me $20, shit better be good.
>>3075942
It's nice, and can be pushed to 1600 if that makes you feel better.
>>3075907
bump
Did someone say 400X?
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>>3075966
Love me some udon.
>>3075907
He probably said something like it can be pulled to 100. Just shoot it at ISO 400 like the box says. When you get it developed they develop it for the ISO on the box, unless you specify otherwise.
Where are you supposed to store film? I just have it in my room
>>3075772
BH Photo ships to Pakistan. Also, where are you?
If you can get to Kabul, there are two camera stores there. I can hunt for the info, but it might be easier for you to research yourself if you can read farsi.
whatsa nice, cheap slr with a mechanical shutter and a battery powered meter?
>>3076056
Pentax K1000
It's a meme, but it's a great camera.
There's also the Olympus OM-1n, but needs special batteries or an adapter to LR44 batteries.
>>3074737
You can get some great results with this! Definitely not to be dismissed because of the price
>>3076068
>i subscribe to the ridiculous notion of there being value in manual craft
if youre implying the spotmatic is somewhat auto. it isnt. but it uses m42 lenses which are far more compatible with other cameras than the weird k mount.
hey /fgt/'s, I found this little guy in a Pelican case I bought at a Goodwill. The camera is in pristine condition and everything works like it supposed to. However, I have absolutely no use of this camera and I don't have any EOS lens (Already got a Nikon F5 and an EM2 with some Nikkor lenses). Should I sell it, or should I get some EOS lens and give it a shot? Currently, I have no plan spending more than $200 on a camera like this.
>>3076208
Pick up the 40mm pancake.
It is like $100 and a fun lens.
>>3076210
Oh wait, on second thought, are modern Canon EF lenses backwards compatible?
>>3076208
Well a 50mm or the 40mm pancake for this are both dirt cheap even new. If you know anybody that's into cameras, they'll probably be happy to give you a film era kit zoom for nothing.
The 40mm gives you pretty much technical perfection from a sharpness, CA and distortion perspective, and makes the camera extremely light and compact. Takes 52mm filters as well, like your Nikon glass.
Those are really nice cameras though. Probably bicer and more capabe than your F5, desu.
The other thing you could do is adapt any of your Nikkor stuff with an aperture ring, it will meter fine in Aperture priority mode.
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>>3076208
Or you could get a Nikon F to EOS converter and use the lenses you already have.
>>3075273
ofc mane.
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>>3075345
tfw giving ur mom a
>sloppy dx hacking
>>3076056
I have a Ricoh KR-5sv bloody great camera with a huge bright viewfinder and electronic lightmeter but they are pretty uncommon. I'd recommend that or the Ricoh KR-5 Super ii which is pretty much identical but a lot more common. Both cameras maximum shutter speed is 1/2000 which is pretty high for an SLR.
>>3076217
How do you get this kind of highlight separation? Pull processing?
I'm about to travel. Should I be worried about x-ray machines ruining my films?
>>3076441
yes
>>3076441
They'll be fine in your carryon as long as they're slower than 800. If you check them, they will get fogged.
>>3076214
>Probably bicer and more capabe than your F5
>more capabe than your F5
hell_no.jpg.
>>3076436
Like I said, Neofin Blau. It's only for slow films though. As in <100ISO.
Also, DSLR scanning and luminosity masks help too.
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How the hell have I never heard of those jobo roller processors
Is there any reason at all to not buy a second hand one
>>3076447
There's no eye control autofocus on the Nikon.
Also there's no 11mm lense, no 50/1, no AF 50/1.2, no 85/1.2, no 65mm MPE equivalent, no af pancake, no first party stabilised f/2 lense.
No option to delete the battery grip, nowhere near as quiet, no IR remote release, no built-in flash, incompatible with current flashes.
I'm sure there are more reasons, but that's what I've got.
Where can I buy film in NYC?
>>3076502
You're kidding right
>>3076504
I don't live there but I'm visiting for a few days. Wondering where I can get some stuff
>>3076502
Try B&H Photo
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>>3076479
>Eye control AF: meme
>Lenses =/= camera
My F5 makes the same amount of noise as the canon, I have an ML-3 wireless remote, built in flash is not needed, it's compatible with current flashes.
If you have the MF-28 rear back, the F5 can do anything you want.
>nee to film
>wanna shoot some low light
>pick up some Natura 1600
>go shoot it at night/poorly lit indoors
>meter recomends 1/15 of a second, impossible to do handheld with my 50mm
>say fuck it and shoot at 1/60
I totally ruined this roll. Scared to go develop it
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>>3076513
>he can't shoot a 50mm at 1/15
Are you fucking broken, anon?
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>>3076213
Yes, Canon is the king of compatibility.
Aside from crop-sensor only EF-S lenses, and the rare and elusive manual-focus only EF-M camera (no AF, no IS, no STM lenses), all EF lenses work perfectly on all EOS cameras.
>>3076525
My hands shake like a drunk.
Will this still work well? I think it just holds the film and stuff, but I don't like knowing I bought it and got this
>>3076559
Forgot pic zz
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>>3076528
Start eating healthy, exercising, and avoiding caffeine.
>>3076579
>Start eating healthy, exercising, and avoiding caffeine.
wow its like you hate life itself.
>>3076580
Honestly, if guy has shaky hands, even just making some relatively small changes in diet, getting more active, and cutting back on caffeine will do wonders for him.
I'm new to film and |I've just been using the fujifilm 400 hd color negative stuff I was recommended at the camera shop.
How big a difference does the film you use play into what your photos look like? I saw a guy in another thread using a yashica and kodak gold and the result was really neat.
Should I play around with different types of film? Anyone have any recommendations I'm about to buy a bunch this week.
>>3076592
To follow up with that, I shoot homeless people a lot since I work at a homeless mission. Any particular film that might be good for me? I usually shoot at daytime but sometimes night as well if I'm with someone.
>>3076592
>How big a difference does the film you use play into what your photos look like?
A lot. Different films can completely change the look of your image.
>Should I play around with different types of film?
Absolutely. Try fast and slow, monochrome and colour, Kodak and Fuji, positive and negative until you find which ones work for you.
>Any particular film that might be good for me?
For street photography I'd try Portra and Tri-X for a start.
is a black minolta srt 101 with a mc rokkor-pf 55mm f1.7 worth $60? good condition
>>3076621
can be had for less. but id go for it.
Ex gf found three bw rolls expired in the 80's that her mom shot during her youth in the CCCP. Going by the GOST it's 80 ASA, so slow enough that the images are probably still there. But how do I develop that stuff? My research so far indicates that stand developing, especially Rodinal = terrible idea unless you want to bring out all the fogging, HC110 (which is what I use) = probably good, but not the best. Also developing time is a complete mystery, the films aren't by the same manufacturer either.
>>3076592
>I saw a guy in another thread using a yashica and kodak gold and the result was really neat.
You mean this shot?
>>3076370
Quite fucking good shot for /p/ desu.
I personally don't like gold since it's yellow bias is too strong for my liking but it works in this example because since it's the only color.
But really you should just try and familiarize yourself with different films the looks you can achieve are drastically different. It's also quite fun to do so.
>>3076632
I just realized that I can just do a develop test with the leader, like checking exposure for prints or testing the amount of range & fogging on old paper.
>>3073615
I really like this anon, noice work
>>3074951
I love ektar, makes white people look quite pink so not great for portraits but I love the colours of it.
>>3076621
Menelta = AIDS
stay away
If you really must buy it, because you're a massive faggot and already have AIDS, check the condition of the shutter curtains; that they're not cracked or damaged in any way, and that they completely expose the film gate when open. They will still run at different speeds and give you shitty exposures, but I've seen one that doesn't even give a full frame. Then check that the aperture feeler on the body moves very freely; if it hangs up at all, the meter won't work properly.
>>3076632
Rodinal is still your best bet. With completely unknown film, I'd be more concerned about being completely wrong on the times and wasting a roll, with 1:50 Rodinal for 13 minutes, you can develop anything.
Base fog is more of an issue if you're trying to print off the negs, because it makes it hard to get a decent black.
Scanning (esp. w/ based DSLR) will let you put your black level wherever you want
>>3076597
Perfect I actually went out today and bought a bunch of those. Got some 400 tri-x, kodak color plus 200, and Ilford 100 and 400.
What's the whole difference between the 100,200,400? I know i can probably look on google and I will but if someone gave me a quick description that'd be nice.
>>3076641
Ya i meant that shot that was really stunning, reminds me of a professional photo almost. I had the guy at the camera place tell me passion matters more then equipment (to an extent I'm sure) cause I was mentioning the photo and how great it was with such "outdated" camera taking it.
Thanks for the info.
>>3076743
>What's the whole difference between the 100,200,400?
There's not a lot of difference as far as taking the photos, it's more for the lab when developing.
As long as you set your camera to a higher number than what's on your film, it will all work out.
I find setting mine to 1600 covers most situations/films.
>>3076750
I had mine on 100, guy at the camera store put it there when i first bought the film, and i was shooting with fujifilm 400.
I'm doing some reading, I thought it would be best to just leave it alone initially.
I'm getting the film processed right now, will they turn out pretty weird?
>>3076579
>avoiding caffeine
I tried, but I get headaches.
>>3076593
I'd try Fuji 400H. It's a really flattering film for people. Street shot on Tri-X is played out as fuck. I also recommend giving slide film a try, a good start is Provia. Just don't shoot it on cloudy days without a warming filter.
>>3076621
That's typically a $20 setup from what I've seen.
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>>3076751
>>3076743
ISO is the film's sensitivity to light. Higher number, more sensitive but also generally more grainy. Using a low-speed film like 100 will mean you can use wider apertures and get sharp, fine-grain images. Using a high-speed film like 1600 will mean you can use higher shutter speeds and get good low-light shots.
Setting the ISO on the camera will tell the meter how much light to let in so it needs to be set right. Don't listen to >>3076750, setting your camera to 1600 will massively underexpose everything. Always set it to the speed on the box or as close to it as you can get - if you have to, set it slightly under as most films can handle overexposure better than underexposure. If your first roll was 400 but you metered at 100 then you'll have overexposed by a couple of stops but they should turn out alright.
>>3076018
Thanks you anon.
Please can you give me information about that?
Can you use water as a stopper in dev process?
>>3076929
Yes, I rinse in water for around 1 min.
>>3076621
Minolta is great especially those old srt series. $60 is good if the camera has a working meter, otherwise they're about $20-30. I would get a 50mm not 55mm.
>>3076728
Well, I might be attempting to print the negs if they're printable, so battling the fog is a priority.
I'm not a fan of the Rodinal look so there's also that.
What C41 film will give me the most slidey colors, Ektar? I'm thinking of starting a project for the summer using slide film in my half frame, but since my usual lab doesn't do E6 anymore I want to give C41 a chance.
Or should I just have a go at doing E6 at home?
>>3077019
Haven't heard of a 'slidier' C41 than Ektar.
>>3076592
>>3076641
>>3076743
That's mine, thanks for the praise, never knew this place could make me feel warm and fuzzy inside.
>great it was with such "outdated" camera taking it.
The equipment was quite good to be fair, the T3 may not be everyone's favourite T* camera, since it looks like a deformed lump of black plastic and is rather big but it's optically the fastest and tack sharp. It's exposure is also usually spot-on. Don't get hung up on cameras, just use what you feel comfortable with and what you feel like fits your style.
Different films have different characteristics, don't get stuck on one but try many, play around with different films subjects and how different exposures effect them.
>>3077030
Yeah, I guess I'll buy a roll and see how it turns out. Hate the skin tones on it though.
>>3077019
You can do e6 at home it's not that difficult if you've developed film before, if you're in the states kits are pretty cheap but they're still obtainable everywhere else too.
>>3077019
Ektar 25, Agfa Ultra 50.
>>3077169
Yeah so do many. Nothing that can't be corrected in post though.
worth it for ~40$? expired around two years
>>3077070
Great advice, I liked your F5 shots a lot too.
Do you guys think this is a pretty good steal in the photo? I wouldn't mind picking up another camera.
>>3077355
Decent price if stored well.
Nothing really special, BW400CN has been discontinued but it's never been a film I particularly liked, more of a grey and white film instead of b&w.
>>3077355
I love that there's one single roll of Sensia 400 in there to ruin you forever.
>>3077392
w-why?
>>3077366
Nikon 35-135D= 50 bucks
Nikon 70-300G= 50-80 bucks
Nikon 50 1.8D= 90 bucks
The first two lenses are nothing special, just slow zooms, I pretty much shoot primes exclusively so wouldn't bother with them personally.
You can get an F5 for about 300 bucks on the bay with better pictures and description. (400+ for one with the mf-28)
The question is if you want an F5?
It's a great camera, built like a brick shithouse and therefore large and heavy.
Back when the F5 was hot shit, having 8 frame/sec was a big advantage for shooting sports and wildlife. Today, few will waste film in such a manner.
It can do things most people nowadays will never use. (Especially with the MF-28 back which enables things such as 999 hour exposures)
Also concerning the previously unmentioned F6, you pay a lot more money for a small gain.
The F100, F5, and F6 share the same film sensor, and there is where the limitation is.
All three of these black boxes around the film should be able to do a fine job.
I love my F5, but I would recommend trying to get your hands on one before buying it.
>>3077366
>steal
No.
That's really a shitload of money, and of the lenses, the 50mm is the only one worth using.
Slow, unstabilised zooms are really more effort than they're worth on film; unless you're in broad daylight and using a fast film, even getting a usable shot can be a challenge. Just think, even at 135mm, shooting wide open, you've really only got 4 stops from down from midday sun before your shutter speed drops below 1/focal-length at 100ISO. And if you're more technically inclined, and shooting from a tripod, you'd probably prefer something with better image quality.
And as far as the camera goes, it's a boat anchor and a battery hog. You'll feel like an autistic psychopath taking it anywhere other than sporting events and air shows, and your weak neet body will tire of carrying it around.
You would have way more fun shooting the $500 worth of film you could buy with the savings from going for a nice FE2 or F100 and a 50mm.
>>3077400
It's beautiful, baby.
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>>3077409
>battery hog
That mostly was an issue back in the day.
With Eneloops I get 35-40 rolls on a full charge, you don't really shoot that away in a day nowadays.
But yeah, it's a brick as mentioned above.
>>3077410
It wont if I will take really bad pictures, hehe.
>>3077366
>>3077407
Another F5fag chiming in here. The deal is so-so, not good not bad. If you want a F5, here's one with a bunch of middling glass.
But unless you've got a use in particular for the 70-300 zoom, or the normal to tele zoom, I'd suggest you find a F5 and a 50mm f/1.8G. The combination will cost you about $150 less (i.e. 10-40 rolls) and the f/1.8G is, by itself, an astonishingly good SLR lens on film or digital. It's so good its "character" is clinical excellence, nothing hipstery charming bullshit here, it's all hi-fi up to f/2 and only moderately better at f/5.6. On the downside its filter ring is 58mm.
I'm not kidding about that lens though. It's so good it'll send you into film process fagging straight away.
>>3077400
Also, I guess I should add, totally discontinued, with no such similar film existing anymore.
The fastest slide film you can get new is 100ISO and doesn't look anything like Sensia anyway.
>inb4 Provia 400X; new-old-stock only available on Japanese Yahoo Auctions for $30 a roll doesn't count, it's dead guys
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>>3077415
Pretty much any 50mm AF Nikon is good.
If you want an extra stop just get the 1.4 AF-D for the same price as the 1.8G, also focusses quick as fuck with the F5.
>>3077418
18 bucks a roll mate.
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>>3077415
I have a default canon lens that's FD 50mm 1:18 S.C.
Is the Nikon 50mm that much better? Whether I get an f5 or not I have a canon ae-1 right now, i wouldn't mind getting a different lens for.
>>3077420
>>3077422
Well, really, we're shooting film here. So whatever unicorn shavings and eldritch sacrifice the aspherical whatsit-coated thunder-god-piss doped glass that went into the G lens, most likely won't be worth the $200 over the regular option. It's noticeable on a flatbed scan though.
Still, I've got one, almost never comes off my F5. Weather sealed too, shot in the rain a couple of times, no worse off for it. Lovely thing to have, but not as lovely as $200 worth of film that could otherwise not have been had. I regard it very highly.
>>3077418
You can get Rollei CR200 new still
>>3077493
>CR200
>new
its expired agfa silde film.
So when i load a roll in i can do it with the case open right? And it's also fine to have the back part open while you take the first 3 shots to get it to 1 while rolling it around the reel thingy?
>>3077615
yes, just close it.
>>3077615
Yea to the first part, no to the second part. If the back is still open when you advance to frame 1, that frame (and part of the next frame too) is now totally burned by the light.
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What's the best point and shoot I can get for around $50?
My dad sent me his old Nikon N2020 and a bunch of lenses.
Besides the body being a little dusty (from a good bit of use I believe) it looks brand freaking new.
Unfortunately, it wont power on.
I read manual, followed instructions, changed batteries and checked their orientation and still nothing.
Am I missing something? Or is it just dead?
>>3077420
The 400X I just bought expires in September.
Are any batches out there any longer?
>>3077355
Could spent $30 and gotten all those Superia 400 rolls new and unexpired.
How far do you think I can safely push lomo 100 b&w?