Film General Thread

Threadly reminder that HP5 is shit! Utter shite!

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Photo from the roll in the OP

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Thoughts? I want to like it but don't.

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>>3061139
Let's say it that way: you probably could not do better with this scene as subject. I like the colour balance but that's probably the only positive thing in a standalone photo like this.

>>3061139
the weeds in front of the car is hella distracting, i kind of like the tones, and the triangular space give a nice sense of depth, but i think it wouldve been wayy better with a slower film.

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Alright /p/, what kind of chemicals do you use, how long do they last and how much do you pay for them ? Do you reuse the fix and the stopping bath ?

Personally, I use
D-76 powder (1 L) : 5,80€
Tetenal Acetic acid (1 L) : 7€
ILFORD Rapid Fixer (1 L) : 14€
Tetenal wetting agent (0,25 L) : 4,60€
ILFORD Multigrade for paper (1 L) : 17,60€

I'm trying to know if I'm getting ripped off or not.

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>I'm trying to know if I'm getting ripped off or not.

>Tetenal Acetic acid (1 L) : 7€
>ripped off or not

>>3061166
acetic acid is just vinegar, might as well get white vinegar from the grocer for cheap

You can try and source the fixer industrially, its just sodium or ammonium thiosulfate

Weather's been fucking nice today, /fgt/s. What've you been shooting? I caught some mossy rocks and shit on 100TMX, Jupiter-8 w/ yellow filter (yeah, it'll never outresolve 400 speed film, sofucknwhat), gonna develop them later tonight.

>>3061166
I'm fairly sure that HC-110 would be cheaper than D-76, per film; euro price for that is like 24€ per litre which does 50-130 rolls depending on dilution. 7€ for a litre of name-brand stop concentrate isn't all that bad.

Get an eyedropper for the wetting agent, or you'll waste it because of overapplication; I've taken to pouring a tiny bit into the cap, then pouring it back into the bottle, and letting the spill run into the dev tank. That's how little it takes, like half a millilitre for a two reel Paterson tank.

Unless you burn through them very quickly, buy multigrade dev (all liquid Ilford chems, really) in half-litre bottles. Rapid fixer concentrate goes bad in about a year, same for multigrade developer, regardless of whether you've opened the bottles or not. Wetting agent won't spoil.

>>3061139
With the industrial background, and that style of apartments which I love, I think if the terrain, and if the lens options you had were what I wish you had, it could have made for a better picture.
Also, maybe it's the scanner or something, but why does it look not that sharp for 6x6?
And maybe it's the lighting but it feels like a digital raw pre chromatic aberration.

>>3061248
So unmotivated I haven't even taken three rolls of c41 to a lab.

whats the deal on reusing chems. Shouldnt the reaction get slower and slower everytime you dev a roll and pour the stuff back in there, requiring more dev time for each one?

>>3061267
Exactly how you described it, although some devs/chems have such an excess of the active substance (at lower dilutions, of course, i.e. stock xtol) that the first few devs require the same times, before you need to start compensating.

What are some good film photography youtubers?

How long do stock developer solutions keep once while opened?
I know rodinal keeps for years, but what about the others? Any personal experiences?

>>3061279
I watch; Negative Feedback, EduardoPavezGoye, Matt Day

>>3061267
For devs, what kurwa said. For fixer, extending the fixing time by a minute every 10 rolls per litre (with t-max counting 3x) and discarding at 25r/l tends to work well enough. Any longer and the fixer won't be strong enough to completely clear the film.

One thing you can do is two-bath fixing, with old crummy fixer doing 60% of the work up front and fresh young stuff finishing the job after. Problem with this is that it turns a 3m30s fix into 3m30s and then another 3m. Results are really good though.

>>3061288
>Negative Feedback

anyone want to go half on some fixer?

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Ammonium-thiosulfate-analytical-reagent-99-_60517312661.html?s=p

>>3061310
what about it?

>>3061319
>>3061319
He's fucking trash and his street photography video is terribly embarrassing

I've tried HP5 and XP2. What's FP4 like?

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First roll of Superia 400 ever

Still trying to figure out the scanning process and white balance stuff

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>>3061331
what did you shoot and scan this with, there is CA and softness out the ass

>>3061331
yeah it's pretty bad.. shot with a Minolta SRT-101. I'm trying to figure out if it has to do with my scans. Scanned with a Sony Nex-7 which is not ideal since i only have a zoom lens with an extension tube. Pretty new to all this.

>>3061027
I only use their panf film.

What is the best bw film for first time?

>>3061416
Tri-X

The answer is always Tri-X

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My first film camera. Any tips? Also bought a roll of kodak Tmax 100 and fuji fujicolor 200

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>>3061419
Go out and shoot.

>>3061432
>>3061419
This go shoot. No tips. Youre a beginner so just pump some rolls out, go for a walk, ask some friends to do portraits, grab a cheap flash do some night shots, just have fun, fuck around, get out there.

>>3061336
>Scanned with a Sony Nex-7 which is not ideal since i only have a zoom lens with an extension tube.
Sorry bro, that lense combo won't cut it for film scanning. You need an actual prime macro lense, or at the very least an enlarger lense or 50/2.8 and bellows.

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>>3061248
I've been shooting IT-N and Reala on a tripod in the forest with an EOS 100.

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haven't got any replies in last thread so might as well go again:
got my first roll (fuji c200) developed today. scanned with rather cheap scanner from my uncle (some medion from aldi that seems to have really uneven backlight).
my father after seeing these pictures said that they look really washed out and out of focus.

where might be the problem, film? scanner? or it's just me taking shitty photos and trying to blame equipment?

other photos are here:
>>3059953
>>3059956
>>3059961

>>3061447
To me it seems just overexposed.

>>3061449
all 4 of them?

>>3061447
You didn't get any replies because you've obviously already identified the problem, you fucking moron.
Potato scans suck.
Use not a potato to scan them.
Also, negative scans require work to look good.
You will need to learn how to use the curves dialog box in your editing software.

>>3061144
Well it's going to be in a series I'm working on in this industrial area. End goal is a 30ish image book.

>>3061161
Yeah...I couldn't get any higher unfortunately. Tripod was maxed out! What do you mean by it would've been better with slower film? I would've exposed it the same. Do you mean it would've been better with less exposure? That shot was 60 seconds @f4.

>>3061251
What lens option do you think would be better? I only had my 50mm and 150mm with me that night. And honestly, I think my 80mm would've been perfect. Planning to go back and reshoot using that. Quick and dirty proof scans are probabky why it doesn't seem sharp. That, and I think I should have stopped down another stop. The background is slightly out of focus.

>>3061447
The photos are pretty boring and are bad scans. I'm sure the negatives are fine.

>>3061475
i just meant that a slower film has higher resolution and less grain..

Do you guys home develop your color film, or take it somewhere?

>>3061513
I take it to a local place.

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>>3061513
Do it at home, got fed up with piss poor scans and scratched negs, and I like learning new things anyways. no rgrts

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>>3061513
If you can develop B&W you can develop C41. It's no more difficult, just different.

Cost effective too - you can get ~20 rolls out of a 1L kit

What's the best way to get color rolls developed ? New fag here

>>3061572
Take them to somewhere that develops film??

Preferably a proper photo lab but it's not gonna matter that much for your first rolls

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>>3061572

Drop them off at your local drive thru photo.

>>3061573
Aren't they expensive?

>>3061590

Varies wildly by location. Here it is $6 to get a roll developed.

>>3061592
Where at ?

>>3061593

Yodobashi Camera
>http://www.yodobashi.com/ec/store/0083/index.html

>>3061590
thedarkroom is like $21 a roll(shipping included) for high quality scans and they send your negatives back to you. good deal if you ask me.

>>3061590
For c41 I go to a local place.
I pay like 2.50 or 3 for developing only.
The guy has a machine so it's cheap, fast, and reliable.
Other labs around town ship it or take longer, so it's not as nice.
Also the guy is cool enough to not force people to buy scans, which happens with other labs.
Color is not hard, but it's not as piss easy as B&W.

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>>3061441
Stop telling people this bullshit in every thread where it's mentioned, why are you trying to get people to spend more money when it's not necessary? Pic related is a 100% crop, no sharpening, scanned with a 50mm + extention tube on apsc. Now if you want to tell me this "won't cut it" or is "unusable" or some other bullshit along those lines, then you're wrong and a fucking retard.

>>3061336
The more time and effort you put into the scanning setup, the better results you will get. I place the film on a light table with some glass on top to keep the film flat, then set the camera on a tripod and manual focus on the grain. Find out with aperture your lens is sharpest at and use that (probably f8 - f11), you can even stitch together photos to get better results.

>>3061694
Amazing! Noticeably less contrast and sharpness on an APSC corner (or mid-frame, if you're scanning with a FF sensor) at a diffraction limited aperture!
Now in fairness, your scan's sharpness is probably fine for most purposes, I'm sure. But any real macro lense will be better, and by a margin that any A-B comparison would be no contest. And that's before we look at CA, vignetting, and distortion. And as I mentioned above, this is only on a crop sensor. AND this is again only for your particular lense, whatever that is. Sure all double gauss fast 50's have some degree of similarity, but they're nowhere near as predictable as a set as 50 macros or tessars.
I give people that advice because if you're going to spend money to acheive a purpose, you should do it once, correctly.

>>3061610
>>3061592
Wth, I pay €3 for just the negative development. €7 for negatives+10x17cm prints and a CD with the scans. The scans aren't that great and I rarely like all photos from a roll so I usually just get the negatives developed

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New Camera!

Olympus XA 2 loaded with some TRI-X 400.

Bought from Cameras. ETC in Newark, Delaware.

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Had this cheap dusty Olympus Mju I for a while now, liked to have it always in a pocket or laying around in my car.
Two days ago I wanted to put in a scuffed expired film where the film leader was a bit crumbled. It got stuck at winding so I tried to pull it out, did the best I could to not break anything but I had to pull a bit harder at some point because it seems like something was stuck.
So the problem is that it won't load anything anymore, the loading/winding sound is a bit weird, kind of crackling and well it just won't load the film. The display is showing me the "E" for empty/error.
Google just shows me retarded forum posts.

So well now theres something broken obviously and I have no idea what else I can try, tried to clean the winding mechanism, tried to push in film manually, tried different films.

Just now I realized that this metal piece that seems to push the film onto the winding thing is a bit bended, could this be the problem? I tried to bend it the other way but it doesn't seem to work, is it safe to screw the mju open? I've read that it has lots of miniature parts which easily get fucked up if you open it.
Would someone maybe take a picture of his mju on that spot or does anyone know that problem? Since from googling this it seems like there are quite some people with that problem and unfortunately the price at this moment is too high for me.

Anyone care to help?

>tl;dr
>put scuffed film into my camera
>scuffed film got stuck and I had to manually remove the film
>had to pull a bit at some point
>that probably broke something
>don't really know what it is.

posting this here because
>Error: You cannot delete a post this old.

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recents
olympus xa and disposable

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>>3061880

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>>3061881

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>>3061883

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>>3061884

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>>3061881
love the colours on this a lot

>>3061880
>>3061881
>>3061884
What film

>>3061248 here.

Finally developed 2 rolls of 100TMX in HC-110(b), 7 minutes at 20°C. They look quite thick while wet. Maybe should've gone for the 6 minute recipe instead. We'll see how this stuff scans. But the flowers I shot in like June 2016 look fucking gorgeous, on the neg at least. Love dat Zuiko glass.

For DSLR scanning, do I want the coolest backlighting on the film as possible?

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>>3061934

>he fell for the DSLR Scanning Meme

>>3061934
Yeah Cyan back lighting helps balance out the orange colour cast from colour negative film but it can obviously be corrected digitally.

>>3061856
I could be wrong but I think on the bottom of the camera if the case is removed there is a film advance gear that is prone to stripping (it's plastic) and If film is pulled out with out the camera releasing (rewinding itself) then it will fuck that gear and now film probably doesn't advance. I'd bin it, get another, compact cameras are shit to work on, nearing impossible imo. unless someone has experience here to say otherwise.

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>>3061895
Kodak ultramax 400

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>>3061251
bruh go drop um off.

>>3061248
weather's been shit, been shooting while working out in rural areas. Got some prints to make today, gonna be doing that and maybe shoot a bit later today/tomorrow.

>>3061856
Yep, by pulling the film out you fucked your camera. see >>3061954
It has a rewind button for a reason m8.
The good thing is, in spite of the memes, these are still essentially disposable.
Just go find another one.

>>3061856
Yep, you fucked a gear (they're all plastic). Throw the camera in the bin and buy another.

>tfw cant find dark room equipment and developer chemicals ;-;

>>3062086
do you live in uganda? all you need is a bag for loading the film into the canister, the rest can be done in daylight

>>3062089
Quite similar, Mexico, there are no negative proyectors anywhere, chemicals arent sold anymore (altough I do have a book with several chemical recipes) but pretty much nowhere, not even on the Internet, have to buy import from the US

>>3062090
black and white or color?

>>3062091
For both iirc, it's the Darkroom Cookbook on pdf

>>3061958
damn w2c qt

>>3062090
>have to buy import from the US
It's a few KM away.
There is no wall.
What's stopping you, you lazy fucking beaner?

>>3062096
Yeah nothing, just need to save up

>>3062090
Donde vives?
Guadalajara, and CDMX should have chems available in stores afaik.
Ya no vivo ahi desde hace un chingo asi que no te puedo ayudar mucho, pero si hay quimicos.
Try mercadolibre, or google quimicos fotografia mexico or revelador pelicula mexico, something like that, there are still places around.
Also, for darkroom, just use the bathroom. A common tip is to take a hot steamy shower in the morning, windows closed, door closed, let it dry. The steam will have cleaned the room of dust flying around, just make it lightproof (100%) with heavy cloths, tape, or whatever. You can use it then to load the film into the reel, works equally good to let the film hang and dry since it'll be dust free and you can make your mess there.

So I have a Minolta XGM and recently it hasnt been firing when I go to take a shot. Any ideas why this is? The batteries seem fine since the light meter works and when I test fire it without any film it goes and goes but when there is film sometimes it just wont fire.
Is there a feature that prevents a shot if the camera thinks it will be over or underexposed? because thats the only thing I can think of. That or its dying

>>3062199
What's up with minolta posters and their dying cameras lately?
Answering your question, it may be the gear in the film advance, it may not be engaging properly, advancing properly, or something like that.
Make sure to crank it all the way through.

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>>3061020
What the fuck is up with Lomo film, did they actually fuck up and use a backing that had chemical bleeding lmao. (or is it me)
P.s. this shits pretty old too

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>>3061069
>>3061139
You spent all this money to shoot some shitty barn or whatever, why? Literally nothing interesting here.

>>3061880
Boston is the most faggot city on the east coast, no lie. Literally no redeeming qualities

>>3062209
>What's up with minolta posters and their dying cameras lately?
Lol Ive noticed the same thing

>>3062249
>>3062209

They are pretty popular with noobs because they are dirt cheap and have a fucking full auto mode where all you have to do is focus.

>>3062253
>full auto mode
Ive surprisingly never used that.
My camera was cheap though. When money stops being tight I think Ill spring for something nicer.

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>>3062209
>What's up with minolta posters and their dying cameras lately?
I think that what's happened is that we really have memed /p/ into becoming a film board, however it's only those who chose to get fucking Meneltas as their first cams that are eating big bags of dicks.
Also worth pointing out, two of my dev customers shot Menelta, one SRT, one HiMatic(?), both are broken.
Menelta=Trash, pls like and share.

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>>3062253
>full auto mode
I thought the point of getting old slrs for noobz was that they would learn to expose manually.

>>3062255
I think SRT101s are better, if you already bought something else other than the 50mm that probably came with the body, in case you wanna keep the system.

>>3062242
Why buy that over priced garbage at all.

>>3062257

>want to learn to expose manually

No, most do it for MUH-FILM-COLORS.

I think part of the problem was Minolta was the cheapest option back in the day, so every one and their mother picked one up. Most of these were probably treated very poorly.

>>3062257
>I think SRT101s are better,
They aren't. The shutters lose time, stick in their gates, run the curtains at different speeds, get cracked and fungusy, the meters lose connection with reality, the aperture feeler on the body gets gummy/loses its spring, the mirrors delaminate. They're just not high quality cameras.

>>3062257
Yeah I got a 50mm lens that came with it and a 45mm Rokkor.

>>3062273

Pick up the 35-70 f 3.5. It is a fabulous lens, even on a modern camera.

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>>3062284
This guy?

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>buy mju ii
>something fucks up and it misfocuses every 3rd or so shot

Feels bad man. I should just go back to an XA

>>3062286

Yea, make sure it is the macro version.

Review here:
>https://phillipreeve.net/blog/minolta-md-zoom-35-70mm-3-5-review/

>>3062293
Cool, its a pretty lens for sure. Ill have to keep an eye out. Whats a good price to snag one at?

>>3062293
Oh link says 80-120, thats about what im seeing on ebay.

>>3062300

Yea thats about it. Seen one or two slow as $60 recently, but not the greatest condition.

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>>3062245
It's part of a larger series I'm working on. And since when is ~$8 a lot of money? I just ate $8 worth of strawberries son.

>>3062287
As much as I love the mjuii, they're getting to the age where buying one is pretty sketchy.

Found some old 35mm cameras from my parents and started shooting up some film the past couple of weeks, but i'm not sure where to develop the film. My local CVS charges about $14 per 24 exposures. Walmart is a bit cheaper but they charge a development fee (woman on the phone didn't know how much the fee was).
I'm wondering if it'd be worth it to just ship the rolls to a lab instead of trying somewhere local. I'm from Houston Tx if that helps.

>>3062480
Black and white you do yourself.

Color you have the choice of doing it yourself with a ~50 dollar investment or paying out the ass

do you have a dslr or scanner?

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>>3062256
hmmm...
i have SRT 100/101/201 and XG and they all work fine.

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>>3062591
>and they all work fine
, he said, while posting a picture of literally the ground in front of him that was out of focus.

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Just picked up 5 rolls of this goodness at a beautiful camera shop in SF. All of them are 11+ years expired, should I compensate +1 stop when using them?

>>3062689

Just cause his cameras work doesn't mean he is competant.

>>3062693
No.
Compensate 1/3 of a stop maximum.
Slide film if stored correctly lasts a long time.
With very expired slide it's best to develop yourself, so you can adjust exposure and dev perfectly.

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>>3062693
If they had it in a fridge/freezer shoot it at box speed. If not I'd add +1. I just shot some 64T exp in '97 at 32iso and it came out great exposure-wise. Had a NASTY color cast due to improper storage though. Pic related (colour corrected)

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>>3062745
Wouldn't it have a bad colour cast cause it's tugsten film not day light?

>>3062756
Not if you have color correction filter

>>3062712
I always develope slide films myself. Those film do not looked like they are stored properly in a freezer, but the average temperature in the SF Bay Area is ~60F, so I am not sure if I need any compensation. Even the owner of the shop suggested me to sacrifice one or two rolls to test the exposure compensations which I am definitely not going to do. Those films are too hard to come by for that kind of purpose.

>>3062770
Well them just expose it at 50 and develop one roll at a time, and adjust afterwards.

>>3062774
That should work. Thanks.

>>3061328
It's gorgeous. Certainly better than HP5.
It's strange how little people talk about FP4 really, because it's really a very good looking film.
I haven't tried pushing it, though, so I can't tell you how it works for that.
You should definitely buy a few rolls.
Delta 100 and 400 are both very nice as well. I prefer Delta 400 over HP5.

>>3062756
Not if you shoot it under the right lights.

And by color cast, I meant massively green over the whole negative. The frames are green, everything is green as hell. Very obviously an effect of age and improper storage.

>>3062781
Shooting my first roll of Delta 400 right now! Pulling it to 200 since I'll be developing in Preceptol. Thst, + using a red filter has me shooting it at 25iso. Curious to see how it will look.

>>3062787
I see, that's unique, all green.

You'll love delta 400 though. It's one of my favourites, it's very versatile.

>>3062781
>It's strange how little people talk about FP4 really
That's because it's 2 stops slower than hp5 without being any sharper, and takes 8 years to develop.
That said, it's good for broken or meterless cameras, because of its massive latitude.

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>>3062899
i memed myself into buying a bulk roll of FP4 and really regret not getting delta 100 or HP5 for the speed because i honestly cant tell the difference in the grain and sharpness between hp5 and fp4

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>>3062936
How are you developing it?

>>3062936
What it does have going for it is the wide tonal range though, it's ideal for portraits because you can use big lighting ratios, and really tune your final image in post

>>3062941
ID-11 stock, looking to get XTOL for finer grain, and hopefully sharper looking images
>>3062952
i really like using FP4 for printing on silver, I find the higher contrast useful for not having to use filters up the ass and running into huge exposure times, but im just surprised that for the 2 stops you lose, you gain almost no difference in terms of grain and sharpness

Superia Xtra 400 looks grainy as fuck.

It is like ISO6400 on my DSLR.

Is it supposed to be like that?

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>>3062980

Cool, and I forgot my example.

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>>3062983
Looks about right. If you want buttery smooth images don't shoot 400iso film.

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A young 14yr anon wants to join in photography.
His mind was blown by the Instax film I took of him.
So I'm gonna start him with one roll of Kodak
A cheap plastic rugged golden half frame camera
and an instant send mail out to the darkroom.
Should I give him a better camera or not?
I don't fully trust the kid with high gear so I'm making him start small.

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>>3062983
>Camera Software Google

That looks like some garbage lab scan. Pic related is Superia 400 scanned with Plustek.

What is FP4 like?

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>>3063204

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>>3063196
Fairly contrasty, good tonal range, doesn't tolerate bad exposures as well as HP5, and dries flatter than any film I've ever used. I feel like it has a roughly comperable amount of grain to 400 speed films, but it's definitely much less coarse.

which film is better:
ilford pan 400 or ilford hp5+?

>>3063204
>>3063205
XP2 is fucking crispy sharp

Need a light meter app

Any suggestions?

>>3061020
what good film compact can I get to start with film?
I want something like XA2 but the ones in good condition are over 90 bucks. I just want something half good, cheap and portable.

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>>3063204
>>3063205
Fucking camera shake in practically all of these.
>>3063219
Have you ever shot XP2?
It's not very sharp really.

This is a shit test. Pic related, what he describes as a "sturdy" tripod. Plastic trash, at full extension, with a fucking memeya dangling off the extended centre column and cantilevered out on a ballhead that's no doubt crying for help.
No doubt he doesn't even know how to use M.Up on his RB either.
And then HC-110 for everything.
And then shatbed scans.
>oi vey

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>>3062980
superia xtra 400

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>>3063224
LightMeter Free
works ok

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>>3063246
They are going for that much now? I typically sell them for $65. I could probably source you one for ~$50 shipped. /P/bro discount.>>3062983

>>3063370
Didn't mean to quote that second person.

>>3063204
>>3063205
>>3063276

What a waste of film anon ...

>>3063219
Well it's a chromogenic C41 process film lined up with a bunch of 400 speed bw emulsions, little surprise it performs better. Doubt he developed it, unlike the rest. Fuck knows how tmax or the rest would look if souped in optimal developer combos etc etc yak yak.

what are some color negative films that look really good when overexposed to hell and back?

>>3063382
All lol.

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Well shitdicks, /p/. 100TMX in HC-110(b), 7 minutes 20°C. Like all the negatives on this roll scan so that most of the stuff is in the thick bits, and when I drop them down with a curve, the image loses all contrast. Shot with a 3x yellow filter (B+W brand).

Agitation was 30 sec initial w/ rod, then 10 sec at every x:00. Recipe from MDC, which said 6-7 minutes in dilution B. Developer was slightly cool, perhaps 19.6°C, at start.

Notably there was a second roll, which it yielded a couple of adequate shots (pic related, someone carved a late-term foetus into a tree stump), but the sea of flowers under early afternoon sun was similarly fucked for contrast.

Is this film a bitch? Or is it making me the bitch?

>>3063165
Post the instax pic.

Also i think this is sweet.

>>3063180
his scan looks much better than yours lol

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>>3063439
Thank you, I didn't scan the Instax of him but this is the other pic that he got intrigued by.

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>>3063382
pretty much any colour neg that isn't Ektar will look good overexposed

pic related is Fuji C200 overexposed 1.5 stops. I've even gone as far as overexposing Natura 1600 4 stops with no ill effects

>>3063437
T-Max has a reputation for being difficult to develop compared to other

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Anyone have any experience shooting aerochrome?

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I shot my first roll of Superia 400 the other day and it was fun. Only thing is, I had exposure issues in low-light and indoors.

So I picked up a roll of this Natura 1600.

My question is, how will this roll perform? It says for night use, but can I get away handheld? Can I still use it on a sunny day? Or will it be a mess?

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>>3063486
You can rate it anywhere from 400-2000 and develop normally and get good results

This is Natura at 800. It works just as well in daylight

Also meter for the shadows, as a general rule when shooting negative film.

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>>3063478
I want stuff to overexpose 4~6 stops

>>3063494

>You can rate it anywhere from 400-2000 and develop normally and get good results

Thanks. I was just wondering if it wa sso sensitive my camera would shit itself trying to meter iso 1600 film in daylight.

>Also meter for the shadows, as a general rule when shooting negative film.

Yea I learned that the hard way with my first roll.

It is the opposite with my dslr, easier to pull from shadows than anything else.

Just picked up a braun paxette for $35 with the standard 45/2.8.
Seems pretty solid tbqh, and a lot smaller than my yashica lynx 14

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>>3063480
Yes, what do you want to know? I used a yellow 12 filter

>>3063593
How did you get yours developed? Will most labs be able to do the development?

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>>3063598
Took it to my local lab, which luckily does dip and dunk. You need an e6 dip and dunk lab. It's the only process that won't fuck yer shit up.

>>3063599
Cool ill find a reason to shoot some soon. Ive heard yellow and orange filters work but i opted for yellow in the end.

>>3063494
>Also meter for the shadows, as a general rule when shooting negative film.

I find myself always metering for the sky or it becomes overexposed

>buy fuji GS645S
>buy eyecup after plenty of research
>comes weeks later
>doesn't even fit

fuck.. how can I get a proper eye cup that fits for this thing?

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>>3063644
I'll sell you one. You just gotta buy the whole g645s with it. For real though, I took mine off and never felt like I needed it.

Another 64T shot for ya'll.

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>Don't live anywhere interesting to take pictures

>>3063679

>live somewhere interesting
>everything has already been taken 1,000,000,000 times and nothing you can do is original

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>>3063682
I understand the flip side you presented but at least you can do the thing that's not original for your own enjoyment.
When you live in a shit area in Britain all you can do is either take pictures of terraced houses or a retail park

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>>3063679
Then hop on a bus and go somewhere interesting for a day trip.

I feel you, I used to feel the same about my area but I started to do two things:
>Walk around my area more and more, at different times of day, as much as possible to discover new places
which worked really well.
>Take the bus/train regularly to go to places around my area that I found interesting.

Hell, you'll be spending the better part of a Saturday for coffee, brunch and a new environment to shoot in. Doesn't sound too bad, and I live in Britain as well.

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>>3063685

No nature?

There has to be something interesting near by.

>>3063660
just the eye cup please
I guess I don't even need it, just bought one that should have fit from china for $2 and surprisingly.. it did not.

How/where is the best way to store film? I remember as a kid my mum left it in the fridge?

>>3063704
fridge for frequent to medium shooting, freezer for long term storage

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>>3063694
>>3063644
They eyecups are the standard threaded fitting for Nikon SLRs.
If you bought one and it "doesn't fit", it's probably because the rubber thread cover is still on the camera. Unscrew it to reveal the threads.

>>3063660
Nice one Andrew

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>>3063679
Not an excuse.

>>3063682
Not an excuse either.

>>3063685
Take pictures of people, shoot abstract shit, git gud at still life, do experimental light painting, take advantage of dat orange light pollution from your constant cloud cover. No excuses for

>>3063694
You did unscrew the eye cover first before putting to cup on right?

>>3063919
Thx bb

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>>3063836
>>3063983

that's what I thought, and I bought this (pic related) and it sits on top of the viewfinder but doesn't actually attach. I can't unscrew anything from the viewfinder either I don't think.

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>>3064045
You've just peeled the rubber off the old one, dumbass. Put it back on, and use it to help grip and unscrew the old one.
Is the new cup threaded on the outside?

>>3064083
this is how the camera came.. I didn't take anything off.
yeah the new one is threaded on the outside.

good

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Hi, I've a question : I home process my own film and sometimes, like yesterday, my films are bent. I'me using good clamps (made for this) and same hangers. I think I have this problem with old/expired films. Could it be that ? Do you have the same problem ?

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You should have a piece that looks similar to this. This is my GA645 but the gs645 has the same thing. Looks like your camera came missing a part.

>>3064119
Has nothing to do with good/bad film. Put them under some books for a day or two.

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Starting "borrowing" Fujifilm Superia 400, got tired of paying for Delta 400. Realized that expensive film is a meme if you're not using high quality cameras.
I cross process the Fuji (Im a black and white fag) and am pretty satisfied, I like this shit tier film alot.

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recently shot an editorial on Hasselblad 500 c/m (third time using it) with portra 400. Still need to work on my focusing and obv photoshop out the top right. Thoughts??

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>>3064148
I like it, your model is fucking jacked and beautiful, although I would remove that pink sheet on the back if I were you, but it's still neat.

>>3064139
fuck.. any idea what that part is called so I can try and find a replacement?

File: classeur.jpg (36KB, 1024x713px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3064119
>>3064139

I second what that anon said. My films often curl, and after I cut them, I put them under a large pile of books for 3 days.
Pic related, this what I use to sort my negs and, by extension, flatten them.

>>3064140
Can't you buy "cheap" BW film ? Where I live Ilford Pan 400 is dirt cheap.
What camera are you using ? I'm curious to know what cameras you consider high quality.

>>3064168
Hi ! I just had this problem with a pack of Kodak Pro Royal Supra 400 of 12 exp I bought on leboncoin. Sort of french craiglist. And It was bent. which is not great for scanning... I'll give a try of your solution :-)

>>3064168
Fuck You were talking of Camera, not films. I used a Nikon 35Ti, and used the color film named before.

>>3064172

French fag here.
If you're looking for film cheaper than the retail prices, try mistergoodfilm.

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>tfw gorgeous afternoon sun / golden hour and you only bring B&W film

I fugged up

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Found a guy selling 5 point-and-shoots for $25, he doesn't know if they're working. The only thing is, one of them is an Olympus XA that seems to be in good shape. Should I take the risk?

>>3064180
If you really want to risk it because you may get a functional XA then go for it man, if not then it's not worth it.

Most point-and-shoots are a dime a dozen, you could easily spend the 25 dollars to get 10-12 random ones and have fun trying them out. Or, better yet, hold off and save up for a working XA.

But hell, this is coming from a guy that spent 20 euros trying to find a working Pentax Espio as a compact carry only to realize that it's gigantic and could kill a man if thrown hard enough. So take my advice with a grain of salt.

>>3064174
Heu, J'ai moins cher avec digit photo...

>>3064183
I have an Espio. It's not pocketable at all, but pretty comfortable to use. Then again that's the camera we used to use to take family pictures, so maybe it's all nostalgia.

I didn't even consider how fun it'd be to try the other cameras. There's a no-name panorama camera thrown in the bundle that'd be an interesting experience. I'm definitely excited to take the risk now. Thanks.

>>3064194
Oh is it the Vivitar one or that other no-name ultrawide thing? Yeah buying plastic point-and-shoots for pennies and trying them out is great fun!

The Espio is comfy, I basically wanted to get it for the good lens performance even fully zoomed in but ultimately decided on finding a rangefinder over that.

There's this really great website where a British guy buys plastic p&s cameras and reviews them that you might wanna check out, I think you'll be able to find it by googling austerityphoto.

Good luck! Have fun with them either way.

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>>3064157
Sorry man, no idea. Just flipped through the manual and didn't see anything.

>>3064180
Having bought a few bunk cameras untested, it rarely works out in your favor.

Speaking of which, just bought this lil cocksucker. Had an Ultra Wide and Slim long ago and loved it. Hyped to get another one. 22mm f8 lens with a fixed 1/125th shutter.

>>3064168
>Paying For Film
I use a cheap ass Samsung Point n Shoot for the time being, my GR1 got fucked while I was out in Yosemite. And just stopped by my local goodwill, not too bad of a performer for $10.
Good Cameras? Well it's all subjective, I'm very into point n shoots, I used to own a Canonet Gliii and a Leica R7, I eventually got annoyed at how big they were and I always found myself leaving them at home because I didn't want to carry them all night.
So "high quality cameras" to me are things such as, Minolta TC1, Leica Minilux, Contax T2/T3, Nikon 28ti, and all the other typical "point n shoot gods".
I'm very much a hobbyist but definitely not some amateur Lomographer.
I'm into that grimy no context street shit. So I figured since I'm not really going at this like a purist, why spend the money to feel like one.

I don't shit on anyone who's out here killing it though, I apreciate anyone who still shoots film. It's a dying culture, and I love it. In LA alot of film guys are pretentious as fuck, but sometimes you meet guys like me who do it cause they just enjoy it.

>>3064203

>buying untested or junk cameras

So fucking tempting though.

Saw a super rare X-600 on ebay the other day for $40 which wouldn't fire the shutter.

Might be a quick fix, might not. Hard not to buy it.

>>3064208
Right? I bought an F3 for cheap because "it wouldn't fire." It had like a 20-year-old battery and the seller didn't even know how to turn it on.

>>3064203
That's so cute.

>>3064203
Some dude made a Leica M-Mount lens out of this camera. Shit is cash

>>3064210

Yea, that made me wonder about x-600. Still up actually.

But seller is Japanese Camera store, so I doubt he couldn't figure it out....

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Got these two beauties the other day for $8 at a local thrift shop.
The Hanimex 35me is working fine but the light seals are completely destroyed. Also can't find a free manual for the Hanimex anywhere online.
Besides for the flash not firing the Olympus AF-10 Super seems to be in good working order. It also came with a cheap no name brand roll of 200 iso colour film 24 exp.

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>>3064262
No name brand film, can't find any info about it online.

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>>3064263
Does it have a dx code? You can use it to identify your film.

>>3064263
Just shoot it man, I love these no name brand films because you don't know what to expect from them. The fact that you have no clue how old they are and how badly they got treated makes it even more exciting. And I'm not even one of those absolute faggots that like lomocrap.
Just overexpose one stop and you are set.

>tfw lucked out and managed to grab the last propack of Pro 160H in 220 from Bic Camera

Also brought back a pile of Natura 1600 and Acros plus a few cameras, a Pen Fv with the 38mm f1.8 being the most important. Can't wait to visit Japan again. Film is still doing really well there.

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Just got into film photography and realized I need a decent scanner. Are there any /p/ approved recommendations for a poorfag?

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Did I do good for £50 ($65)?

Pentax K1000 (SMC Pentax-M 50mm f/2 & Auto Chinon 50mm f/1.7)
Olympus OM-1 (Zuiko Auto-W 28mm f/2.8 & F. Zuiko Auto-S 50mm f/1.8)
Olympus Trip 35
Agfa Silette SL
Walz Envoy 35
Ensign Ful-vue

All of them other than the Walz are in fairly good condition, not perfect but should be usable. The Walz has sticky aperture blades. The Pentax has an unused roll of Kodak 200 in it already.

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>>3064326
Ive never heard of Pro 160H. Can you post a photo of the box?

>>3064507
fucking killing it m8.
If I were you (and not me, because I'm a shameless hoarder) I'd whack everything bar the Oly kit straight back up on whatever your local merchanting site is, make your money back, plus a tidy budget for film, and enjoy shooting a truly patrician outfit.
>1 normal
>1 wide
>a best 100% viewfinder
>a best low vibration horizontal shutter

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>>3064511
>If I were you and not me

You are me.

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I love Portra 400 because while the colors are prominent, they're not overly saturated. Also, skin tones are god tier with both 160 and 400.

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>>3064559
Those colors are shit bro. The sky and concrete have a weird cyan cast to them.

>>3064529
>a string of emojis that acknowledge our shared plight

>>3064560
Looks like a slight green cast to me.