Ok so feel free to report / hide this if it's not supposed to be here, but since the film board is a hub of pedos and shitposters I felt like this would be my best bet. Anyways~
I found this at a thrift store for like 30 bucks. I've always loved the look of 8mm film and I figured why the hell not, so I picked it up. I'm just wondering where I can find film for this and how difficult the process would be to get it onto a computer. ANY sort of information would be super helpful, I'm not familiar with 8mm at all. Thank you!
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Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make samsung Camera Model SM-G900V Camera Software G900VVRU2BOK3 Maximum Lens Aperture f/2.2 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 31 mm Image-Specific Properties: Image Width 5312 Image Height 2988 Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 72 dpi Vertical Resolution 72 dpi Image Created 2016:01:19 16:28:58 Exposure Time 1/15 sec F-Number f/2.2 Exposure Program Normal Program ISO Speed Rating 800 Lens Aperture f/2.2 Brightness -1.9 EV Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Center Weighted Average Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash Focal Length 4.80 mm Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 5312 Image Height 2988 Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Unique Image ID F16QLHF01SB
Holy shit, for real? I was expecting it to be kinda expensive but not like that.
Is it just specific to this one or are all 8mm film cameras that expensive to use? How do so many filmmakers / skateboarders use them and upload them on YouTube then?
its the film that's expensive
because they're rich hipster white kids? I don't know what films you're talking about. a lot of it is done digital and run thru a filter. or maybe they were shot 20+ years ago, when it was cheap.
Ebay is your best bet for film. You could experiment with expired films if you know exposure pretty well, though processing those films may be tough depending on who made it and how old they are. I'd reccomend checking with a lab relatively close to where you live on wether or not they develop the spool you are planning on buying or not so you don't waste money on mailing it it. If so, ask for a telecine conversion to a reasonable resolution and play with the results on a computer because I'm assuming you don't have an editing desk handy.
I don't know about that, looks like Dwayne's can hook you up with 100ft and a DVD conversion for like $45, and that's 16mm.
Idk man, if you search 8mm skate video on YouTube there's tons of results.
This is some good information thank you, I'll try looking around ebay and see if I can find something that'd work for the camera. Is there any place I can learn more about the things you're saying though? Like I mentioned I'm a complete newbie. I have been using tapes and SD cards my whole life, I don't know much about exposure and such.
Alternatively, since this camera at least got me interested, is there an easier way to go about it? Maybe a different camera? I'm hoping to get something that looks like this
Shit everyone where's the koala bear diagram when you need it the most? I'm aware of the fact it's more for photography but similar rules apply.
Exposure shouldn't be too hard to learn. I bet you the manual that came with the camera will teach you most of what you need to know right off the bat. Plus YT videos on 8mm and videography will teach you some pretty useful tips and techniques on filming and if you want to get into it eventually, developing.
And that's really up to you. I'd say since you already have the camera midaswell try it out at least once and see it you like the results you get. You could take a flashlight and point it in front of a 2 or 3 different kinds of cameras (Internet slow so that's all I saw in the video) and depending on how the images manipulated in post were affected you can get relatively similar or drastically different results.
ok cool, i think i'll order some film and give it a shot, maybe look around for camera shops in my area and see if theyd know anything about getting it developed.
do you think i could get away with trying some of this film to test it out first, (since the expiration date is 54 years past expiration, lol) and if so, maybe find some newer 8mm film elsewhere?
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Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make FUJIFILM Camera Model FinePix T550 Camera Software PhotoScape Maximum Lens Aperture f/3.4 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Maker Note Version 0130 Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 72 dpi Vertical Resolution 72 dpi Image Created 2015:09:02 12:31:32 Exposure Time 1/26 sec F-Number f/3.4 Exposure Program Normal Program ISO Speed Rating 400 Lens Aperture f/3.4 Brightness 1.2 EV Exposure Bias 0.7 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 4.30 mm Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 4608 Image Height 3072 Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Sharpness Normal Subject Distance Range Unknown Sharpness Normal White Balance Auto Chroma Saturation Normal Flash Mode Off Macro Mode Off Focus Mode Auto Slow Synchro Mode Off Picture Mode Program AE Continuous/Bracketing Mode Off Blur Status OK Focus Status OK Auto Exposure Status OK
actually this has better reviews i'm assuming it'd work better?
and one of these, my camera doesnt have one
Most of these cameras had two frame rates usually 16 or 24 and a semi fixed aperture of around f8-f11 and were designed to work on films with an ASA rating of between 40 and 100. They often had a built in tungsten filter to be selected or not and often added a single frame exposure for animations etc.
If you don't know what any of the above means then stick a modern compact digital with HD video capability on your board, helmet, underneath the arches and then post process through any of the numerous '8/16mm film look' plug ins/apps that are relatively cheap to buy and free to torrent.
This will save you a lot of time and money.
If you really want to film with film then buy an old 16mm clockwork Bolex of Beaulieu - these are cheap - and get filming. 16mm film is still widely used and a variety of stocks are still available at least in the UK. Be aware that film processing is currently about £3 per foot in the UK and getting it digitised is around a £1 per foot.
All the best.
Yep, those 2 sentences were pretty much foreign to me lol. That said, I'd still really love to use real film. There's a nice authenticity to it I don't see in digital film, filters or not. I'll do some research into the other cameras you mentioned
Was it that much simpler in 1962? I mean the camera is described as a regular use / home video camera, I assumed when I bought it that it would just need some film to run.
True but that was in 1962 when owning that camera you had meant you were pretty well off and could afford a roll of Kodachrome 40 have it processed and then have the neighbours over get the projector out and show them the wedding, the kid's first bathtime, the holiday in Switzerland etc.
The trouble is fifty feet of film is not a long time - between 3 and 4 minutes depending on what frame rate it is shot at. 8mm film is basically 16mm film sliced down the middle. Super 8 stock is still available and processable and Super 8 cameras are cheap. Look for a Canon 814 is my tip. Also, a few days ago somebody mentioned that Kodak had just brought out a new Super 8 camera and were offering a deal on the film and digital processing. Try the this link http://www.kodak.com/ek/us/en/Consumer/Products/Super8/default.htm?CID=go&idhbx=super8
Super 8 has always been incredibly expensive. I honestly think you'll be disappointed in the results you get from old expired stocks, but the new Vision3-based stocks (like 7203 50D) will yield pretty good results.
If you ignore the subject matter, you can see the kind of quality you might be able to get from 50D on Super 8:
yes, i really love how this looks. the color and everything is fantastic.
do you think i should do what the other anon above said and just get a different camera to do this or just get that film and try it out with the camera i already have?
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Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make samsung Camera Model SM-G900V Camera Software G900VVRU2BOK3 Maximum Lens Aperture f/2.2 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 31 mm Image-Specific Properties: Image Width 5312 Image Height 2988 Image Orientation Right-Hand, Top Horizontal Resolution 72 dpi Vertical Resolution 72 dpi Image Created 2016:01:20 20:17:57 Exposure Time 1/20 sec F-Number f/2.2 Exposure Program Normal Program ISO Speed Rating 320 Lens Aperture f/2.2 Brightness -0.1 EV Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Center Weighted Average Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash Focal Length 4.80 mm Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 5312 Image Height 2988 Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Unique Image ID F16QLHF01SB
If you don't mind shooting in black and white then here's some Fomapan. Also there is color film for 8mm still but it's a bit more expensive. This would be much better for testing it too.
i would prefer color, how much more is it? but thank you i was looking at this but not sure if it was what i needed. is it the fact that it just says "roll" that you know it'd work? because like in my pic, the top spool isnt there, im assuming the spool comes in that box?
Yes I've been looking into it, I'm definitely not seeing 100$ for film like that guy said. Where I'm seeing the expensive price is in the shops that process and digitize it for you ($100 PER CARTRIDGE!!)
Yes your film comes on a spool. You load the spool and thread it onto the spool in the camera. The film runs through the camera and is exposed to your subject Then the full spool is taken out and sent off to the processors leaving you with one spool always in the camera. T^his is the same will all roll film cameras 6x6 etc.
Before loading film you must clean the gate with a brush and a blower - the gate is the square opening which is the shutter. You must have seen film where a hair is visible on screen? This is called a hair in the gate and is a common problem in cine cameras at every level. Next you load the film in subdued light - i.e. anything other than bright sunlight a dim room, back of the car, etc. This minimises edge exposure on the final image.
thanks for the information. i've been looking around and getting it developed / digitized seems to be a pretty expensive procedure, on top of the price of the film itself. i'm wondering if expired film will still work ok, at least to test the camera out. theres plenty on ebay that expired in the 70s, still fully sealed, for very cheap
Would some 1970s cling film/food wrap actually wrap your sandwiches successfully?
Old film will prove that the mechanism of the camera works OK but would give you no true idea of the resolution and exposure as the old stock introduces too many variables because it will have decayed on the film emulsion side. By some Standard 8 black or white leader - and a spool off ebay and run it through to check the mechanicals - gate and film take up etc. Then buy a fresh bit of Standard 8 on a 50ft reel and shoot it. It is the only way really.