The Fällkniven Awakens edition.
Old thread is near bump limit.
it's pretty much all I've used for /out/ in the past year
fuck off both of you, we're all on the same page here. in /out/ context a knife is a TOOL primarily, and waaaaaay down the line it's an 'adapted weapon'.
now fuck off and try to troll some palce else
Anyone here have experience with the Gerber Dime? I picked one up at Ross for cheap as a gift but I sorta wanna keep it
This shit just makes me want to post in the kniofe thread and I never post in the kniofe thread!
Your powers to make me are weak, shitposter.
what do you want a knife that long for? honest question? are you planning on doing skinning? woodworking? seems a bit long for fine woodworking or precision woodworking like feather sticks and such and a bit long and a strange blade shape for skinning?
Start with a solid design, if you like the F1 start with an outline of an F1 and adjust it to make it your own.
Try drawing at least initially on paper, it's tons easier.
Search for DCknives profiles, there are a bunch of PDFs you can use.
I made this knife using the pic related as a starting point.
Juicing the pics I took recently.
Fällkniven awakens indeed.
Not my most expensive knife nor my most unique one, but by far my favourite
Looks like a Fällkniven brand knife. Not sure which model if that's what you're asking.
Both of those knives are made for general outdoors/bushcraft, So I'm not completely sure why they wouldn't be excellent for that role.
Youtube and reviews on online stores like amazon can help you with opinions, unless somebody else would like to chime in. Both are highly acclaimed brands.
*Fallkniven vs ESEE. I'm going to buy one within the next month and would like to hear opinions about which is better for general use. I'm currently leaning towards ESEE because they seem tougher.
an illusion. ESEE is indeed tough (they're built like tanks), but the laminated steel falkniven uses is really good.
I'd say, if you can afford it, get a falkniven, otherwise buy esee - can't go wrong with either. Another one I could recommend in the 130-170 dollar range is LT Wright.
that was just an example of the quality LTWK puts out. And falkniven are convex as well.
As forsharpening, you need something that will give a little - one way is to use very fine grit sandpaper on a mouse pad, or any semi-soft surface, so it will wrap around thegrind. Youtube has plenty of guides - as long as you are willing to spend a little extra on proper sharpening tools (no reason you shouldn't), you'll be fine.
I don't care that you made a meme.
The knife general should be easily searchable. Thats the point of a general thread. To direct everyone who would have made "just another knife thread"
These threads were stupid ever since the first one.
>he doesn't understand the satirical rusery of chan culture
Redditor pls go
anyone think this is worth £300? i really want one, but dont know if i can justify the pricetag.
its going to be really limited availabilty though.
it seems to me the kinda knife that would survive generations..
>worth 400 and some odd bucks
At that price point it is only worth it if you're a collector or if you think it's pretty. Worth it would imply that the price is justifiable by being able to do the job it was designed for better or as well as other similar items. There are a plethora of knife sub-100 dollars that are just as good or better than that knife for a multitude of purposes.
So no, it objectively is not "worth it". But if you think it's pretty and want to blow money on it, then go for it. We've all done it.
I bought this Mora Bushcraft Forest because it was so damn sharp and felt so nice in my hand. And it was cheap about 30$.
i want this knife, the price is pushing it though. Seems so practical to have for EDC.
I made pic related and use it when I'm cooking and doing other things requiring sharpness while camping and hiking and hunting. Camping, hiking, and hunting are /out/ related, right? The handle wood came from a tree branch in my back yard that was broken by an ice storm. Weather is /out/ related, right? Oh, and these are mine as well:
>the blade blank was a $10 Pakistani cheapie from North Coast Knives
>got it because I wanted to try a hidden tang on a cheap blade first
>turns out it's a decent blade, just a touch soft
Consider a trailing point over a drop point. Unless you feel the need for something stabby, a trailing point like the Old Timer Woodsman is a great utility blade shape. Full width slab handles are easiest to mount and shape and have good strength. Stick tang is more versatile for various handle shapes if you want to play or get fancy, but be sure it's full tang if you cut down the width.
You'll love it.
Here is modded sheath for scout carry.
I like that. I've been thinking about how I'll carry it before it gets here. Maybe paracord through the holes in the sheath to carry it that way. Kind of disappointed I won't be able to play with it, I leave for basic 3 days after it gets here
>Using an Arkansas as your coarsest stone
Tip top kek, I hope anyone flowing your advice has fun burnishing the shit out of their knives for 400 millennia because they are tying to use a placebo rock to sharpen steel instead of any sort of vaguely modern or rational abrasive.
It's fine. It's difficult to go wrong with $30 condors. The only problem I have had with them is sometimes they ship with unfinished handles, so it's good to order from a place you can return for replacement without a hassle.
It's a Russel belt knife, made in Canada
It's alright, the sheath goes on a belt but the knife isn't always secure
The tip could be thinner, I mean a drop point. That would make it lighter. And it's way too long to be practical imo.
I like it for camping, it's pretty useful for anything really. The one downside is if I'm wearing it on my best and being active, like chopping wood, or bending down to pick stuff up, the knife can slip out of the sheath, so for that I just wrap the string around the handle through a belt loop.
The handle looks good, but the upper finger guard is something no knife should have, except fighting knives where it protects the hand against another blade.
There was some high quality stuff made in USSR like binoculars and guns, but I'm not sure about knives. These days they counterfit everything, so a scythe and a hammer does not mean the item is from the soviet era. It could be 25 cent piece made in China.
I did mention that I use a 220 grit stone for rough work, or did you not read that far? I don't have to break it out very often because I like to sit and sharpen sometimes. It's relaxing.
i am looking for a traditional style pocket knife
1 or 2 blades. non locking. less then 7cm
and a spike for rope undooring like on this knife
£300 is honestly a bit overpriced. A custom, smith made puukko style knife with hand forged blade usually costs like 200 euros. Materials are always dirt cheap compared to the actual time and effort it takes to make a good custom knife, and I can't say I think that one takes any longer to make than any other knife.
Can someone identify this knife? It's a Tramontina, but, I can't find anything in the search results.
It's preddy gudd. I prefer the Kephart, but I'm just biased towards it because it was my first knife I actually bought for "bushcraft". You'd get a solid knife but every Condor I bought always needed a little bit of honing or sanding to get the sealant they put on the edge off. So, get one if you like the look of it.
Just bought this machete for $12, how'd I do /out/?
Not an /out/ regular here.
I was wondering if someone could recommend a good outdoors knife for many purposes, even killing and skinning an animal if that would ever happen.
But most of all i'd like something durable i can pass off to my children after 40 years
Also what's the opinion here on Lapin Puukko knives?
I have one of those in a nice furred sheath, but it's kinda rusted and pretty dull (it's 30 years old at least)
The term for that spike is "marlin spike." Here's a traditional bamboo handle knife with one:
Camillus isn't what it was 30 years ago, but it's still a decent knife.
Puukko are excellent general purpose knives. I have one made by Ahti that's a great tool. Cost me about $100 US. Case fixed blades are good tools as well. I've heard good things about Esee, but don't own one so I can't personally recommend it. Avoid sawbacks, serrations, hollow handles, and anything with less than a full tang. Stick tangs are OK if they're full tangs. Most puukko knives have stick tangs. Slab tangs (full length, full width metal in the handle) are strongest, but unnecessary if you aren't going to use it regularly to do things better done with an axe. Get a knife that feels good in your hand and comes from a manufacturer you can trust and you'll be fine.
>I have one of those in a nice furred sheath, but it's kinda rusted and pretty dull (it's 30 years old at least)
Shine it up and sharpen it. My main kitchen knife is a Henckels that my great-grandmother used in her grocery store a century ago. My favorite /out/ knife is a Camillus PSK I bought in 1986. Take care of a knife and it'll last a very long time.
first time on /out/
Navy 5 years. Used a knife 50 times a day erry day. Why are there so many knives here without serration? You lose so much utility when you get rid of that inch or two of serration.
this thing is the shit, handled everything ive ever thrown at it. love everything about it for innawoods.
Hey guys. My father gave me this knife when I was a kid. It needs to be sharpened. What do you think of it? I don't really know anything about knives tbqhwyf.
Going on a 3-4 day hike in spring so would like to take a knife with.
My number one /out/doors knife for the past four years. I love this knife so much.
All it's blades.
What do you guys think of Leatherman?
And after a bit of cleaning and maintenance.
It's an Old Timer Woodsman. I have one, but mine was made after the company folded and Taylor bought everything. Trailing point is a God-tier blade design that's been around hundreds of years and the old stuff from Schrade was good steel heat-treated properly. It's most likely as good a knife as you can get for under $100 US.
I didn't look at the videos listed by >>652935 very long, but they appear to agree pretty closely to pic related, something I made. Just get a couple of stones and a magic marker and play with them. A good magnifying glass is a good investment as well. Also, look around at bladeforums.com in the tinkering/maintenance/embellishment section for advance tips. It can be as easy or as complicated as you want it to be. For a good way to make a compact strop that will fit in a kit:
Just picked this up. So far so good, tough as nails, sharp enough for the price and the sheath is great IMHO.
How do you like that Becker? I've never seen wood scales, v aesthetic.
I'm pretty happy with my Mora Classic, but I think this will maybe be my next general use/hard use knife, paired with a little pukkko/carving knife for finer work and food.
>Grandfather died about 5 years ago
>get into his garage to get some tools I need
>wherever I go there are Mora Knives
>uncle said he found about 200 of them so far
>mfw I now have more than 200 Mora knives of different models
Go on ebay and get case or buck marlinspike knives, carbon steel nice scales, classic looking.
British navy knife is also an option.
These are cheap if you can find them: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/used-italian-military-shark-tooth-knife?a=884934
Haven't been in on this part of the conversation, but thought I'd put my $0.02 in. I have a couple of knives with serrations, more without. I prefer the blades that aren't serrated, but I don't cut lots of rope or plastic. Can't see another particular use for them. What do you use them for?
Looks like one of these he's modded to suit himself.
it's a bk11
i've got an 11, 16, 17 and 3
i've got others for that kinda thing, it'd probably be horrible, not sure on deer as i've only worked on one ever, but i can't see how i'd get into bunnies and small shit i usually eat inna with it. i don't keep it super sharp either, just a good utility edge. it's heavy as shit and pretty bad for fine work. chisel ground, the back is totally flat
What's a good bushcraft knife, other than a mora, that won't break the bank?
is 100 bucks breaking the bank?
LTWK has a bushcrafter HC in 1075hc steel. 3/32 thick, full flat grind, with ltwk 90 degree spine, 2-stage patina, micarta scales.
75 bucks without a sheath, 100-ish with a sheath.
i think it's pretty obvious if the supertool is not strong enough then i'm sure as hell not gonna buy a rebar. the surge is the best non-specialized multitool there is but when i held it in my hand i also found it weak and flimsy. if they made the plier neck/joint stronger i would buy it.
Go to Ragnar's ragweed forge and get something from Finland or Sweden or Switzerland. I have the Ahti leuku and love it. Runs around $100. Top knife in this pic.Second knife is the Camillus Pilot Survival Knife. I've had that one since 1985. It's a little brute. Third is an Old Timer Woodsman. My favorite blade pattern. This one is new stock from the Taylor Brands reincarnation, it's still a pretty good knife. YMMV greatly, stainless is very susceptible to poor heat treatment. Runs $25. The bottom is my wife's Case. Case makes some of the best knives around. Get anything they make with a simple clip/drop/trailing point blade that's over $50 and you have a knife you can trust for a lifetime.
I have some Buck knives, but none that aren't folders. If their folders are any indication, their fixed blade knives should be good stuff.
>burning through line
I dunno what you're on about; my knife has no serrations and cuts cord just fine, no resistance. Then again, I'm obsessive about maintaining a shaving-sharp edge on all my bladed tools.
Even on base materials, ok if it's 1095 and plastic scales I can see it but tool steel/good stainless isn't cheap, nor are micarta/g10 and equivalents. Then like you've said, you've got cutting, grinding, heat treat, polish, edge, fixings, packaging etc
Well I'm not sure I can help you, I don't like choils like on the 3 or 4, if I was going to get an Esee it would be
So by default I'd have to vote for the Izula II from your options.
yeah, wow look at all those steps you just mentioned
you are totally not a fucking idiot
and the expensive knife market is totally not for fools
do you know how many steps are involved in making an intel or AMD cpu?
why do many knifes cost more than an intel celeron or equivalent budget AMD?
>inb4 more knife shills defending their retarded purchase
>What is economy of scale
The materials that go into a CPU cost next to nothing, the machinery that makes it costs a metric fuckton, thats why there are about 3-4 major fabs in the world. Also helps that they're made in countries where their workers are paid so badly and worked so hard their suicide rates are frightening.
metal doesn't cost much
the machinery energy consumption involved in forging and working the metal is also not expensive
you can shill out the most expensive knife with the most shill worthy bullshit gimmicks. and it's still a $12 knife
wanna try harder, kid?
And all these knife generals and each and every knife here doesn't look used. Show me the ones you use or if you don't, then why the FUCK would anyone buy a pricy knife just for decoration?
Bottom one I bought myself, works good for me, wrapped the handle in hempwick to add some texture and emergency uses.
Top one I just got for Christmas from my brother, he heard I wanted a knife so he went out and bought this. I believe the brand considers it more of a machete than a knife. How'd I do?
It's chinese-manufactured, but it works good for me. Cutting rope, cutting up meat for cooking, all that is great and I have a power sharpener so it's razor sharp.
I think it will be useful a small machete to use around camp for sawing and other small tasks. I have this machete >>650240 for brush/branch firewood gathering. Thanks anon
Is there any way to get a bushcraft knife custom made? I want a very specific looking knife but can't seem to find any. Also, what just a good all around bushcraft knife? I have a mora but want something a little heftier for bigger tasks.
Flat or Scandi for bushcraft? I'm wondering because I'm thinking of getting this knife (TOPS Scandi Trekker) for a small outdoor knife, or if I should get a BK14 instead.
Fyi Scandi grinds with secondary micro bevels are not true Scandis and are actually sabre grinds
>And the handle to blade ration is way to big. You'll have a fist full of nothing when your cutting.
Um... wat? You do realize that even if it has as slightly longer blade that the handle is still there, right? It is a full size handle that extends out past your hand in the hammer grip
You sure that's full size? Looks pretty piddly to me. I guess it's up to personal preference, but if I'm carving something up or chopping it I'd rather not have something that's going to cut into my palm. Aren't you the guy that keeps posting about that same knife?
Exactly what is going "to cut into your palm" ? I genuinely don't know what you're talking about
If by that guy you mean the guy who asked about it a couple times on /k/ then yea
See where his index finger is? That's the super thin part I'd be worried about. I have pretty large hands, and they would eclipse that part to where my fingers would be curling under my palm and forcing that bit into my hand if I'm doing a decent amount of cutting. In my opinion, if the knife is uncomfortable to use, you might aswell not have it.
The blade itself is an excellent blade, I guess I'm just not used to that style of handle. If I have a knife, I want something that's going to fill the palm of my hand so that I get better leverage and control.
I like mine a lot, put it on my keychain and it's great for innacity EDC and opening my hipster craft beers. Only good for light duty stuff though (not even much use for emergency bike repairs, would use the pliers to tighten an 8mm rack or fender nut but that's about it, cutters won't trim a brake cable).
Gripes: scissors are tiny, file is useless, lost the tweezers, while the separate package opener works quite well, if the knife blade had a decent point it wouldn't be necessary.
>Why's it look like he stapled a stake to his knife?
...maybe he's cradling it gently to show it off for the photo?
Anyway I have that knife and it's by far the most comfortable knife I've ever used
Used and, in the case of that military issue knife, abused when I was younger and didn't know better. Since I have several and use them on an informal rotation, they don't get the same use that someone with one knife would give them. Still, they get used.
Not him, but I like the way a Scandi grind bites into whatever you happen to be cutting with it. They aren't great for cooking, though. Veggies want to stick to the sides. If I take my Ahti car camping I also take a knife for cutting potatoes and tomatoes. If I'm not car camping, it doesn't matter because I won't be cutting taters or maters or the like.
Quick question, getting late christmas gift, looking at the Kershaw Select-fire. Is it a gimmick or practical edc? Not really worried about "tactical".
Oh, and the Boker MPP. Is this legit or should i just get a kubaton for my keys ?
It's a Fällkniven A1, not an S1 like someone else said. Enlarge and compare the images:
Picked this up for a good deal the other day. Anyone else deal with trench knives?
Micra is scissors, there's no comparison.
The Squirt is better but it's still tiny toy pliers for almost the price of a real multitool, the Dime is cheap.
If you don't need tiny pliers the Curve isn't bad.
newfag here, I got this knife a while ago and was wondering if it was any good. It seems to be a Winchester hunter knife, and the amazon page looks pretty barren.
I reckon you could get a balaclava and crowbar for 12 bucks
Found a better amazon listing with actual reviews:
From the reviews it seems that Winchester doesn't seem to have a very outstanding reputation, but this knife seems decent enough.
I actually got a Micra free from work, and I was so disappointed to see the scissors instead of pliers. The pliers are much more beneficial for fishing (especially since scissors don't cut braid line for shit).
So I bought a Dime. It's just nice so I can toss it in my pocket and don't have to dig through the tackle bag for pliers.
If I'm walking without my tackle bag, I'll normally just carry this larger cheap one I got. Or just a pair of pliers.
One day I might invest in a nice Leatherman.
Overall size, blade length, color of the handle, size of the fingerguard and length of the "false edge" on the spine.
Good for sharpening practice I guess? I was looking for a better knife, but don't know the practicality of the different styles, etc. I've seen a lot of people talk about moras which seem to just be straight knives. I was thinking of getting something like a hunting or "survival" knife. A little wider, with perhaps a small serrated portion and a flat back for fire striking?
I don't fish much, but use it often for daily carry. Great for opening packages and other small tasks. If you like the micra but want pliers get the squirt. Leatherman's quality is way above Gerber when it comes to multitools.
Nothing wrong with scissors, I don't need a knife for most tasks nor do I find myself often needing pliers. Also there's only a 4 dollar difference between the micra and dime. Just got the style for Christmas and like it a bit more, the knife being on the outside makes it much more useful.
Just got the high carbon puma Bowie knife is it good for general usage?
I've never been a big fan of big Bowie knives, their great for fighting and putting the fear of god into people but they always feel awkward to use for anything bushcraft related to me, smaller Bowies aren't bad though.
Is this ok or crap?
Got it for xmas. Was told it's from an antique shop and cost $10. No markings of any kind. Construction is imperfect and has some asymmetrical aspects suggesting it's hand made to some degree.
looking to get into the outdoors knife business seeing there's plenty of you stupid goyim willing to pay more than $20 for a knife
the profit margin is huge for me
i just looked up some of the most expensive brandname hardcore gimmick knifes, and they cost roughly $12 to make, yet are selling for hundreds
already got an asian sweatshop in texas ready to roll out that authentic american craftmaship too
Just get a blade that isn't fuckhuge, has some belly, and is attached to a handle that feels good in your hand. So what if it doesn't hold an edge all that well? Sharpen more often.
>I hate serrations, brah, but YMMV
I used my Mora knife to skin a deer yesterday and afterwards I looked at the blade and the edge was all bent to hell in some spots.
Why are scandi grind knives so shitty and weak?
i love mine. i use it mostly for batoning. i dont mind the stock scales or sheath, but out of the box, the edge was blunt. i had to hit it with my grind wheel to do anything. takes and holds an edge like a champ tho.
the older Schrade knives are good, ive got one that looks similar in style to yours
Do you people use your knives?
I actually just counted and about 16 of the ones pictured looked used. I realize some people grabbed internet images rather than pics of there own but jesus, there are a bunch of obvious photos with 0 wear on the blades or hilts.
The only thing that's right in your pic is the beer can. I have to say this like honestly, the knife in the pic is the ugliest, unfunctional piece of shit I've ever seen. I didn't know Becker ever did something like that. This is like Satan walking in the funeral of Jesus and fucking his corpse in the ass and the mouth. Feels bad man. Serrations I can understand, but why a line cutter? As if the blade was unable to cut a simple string or line? And for what are there cuts in the spine. Makes not sense to me.
Thank God I don't have any Beckers lying around 'cause if I did, I'd have to sell them right now.
Any stainless knife will clean up to look like new. Any non coated carbon can clean up pretty well too. I guess I don't normally dig trenches with my knives and throw rocks at my knife until it chips so it looks used.
>Nothing wrong with scissors
Never said there was, but it's a different tool for different purposes.
>there's only a 4 dollar difference between the micra and dime
I was comparing pliers to pliers, and while the Squirt is a bit better than the Dime it also costs almost twice as much (and more than the Rev).
Just received my Mora Companion in the mail. The carbon steel board is super dull; I'm using a Wustoff 2 stage to sharpen it, and its taking forever using the fine section. I thought carbon was supposed to sharpen quickly.
Fuck, I just got one myself and haven't tested it. I just assumed it was good to go since everyone says mora companion is good first knife.
Anyone got a cheap link for a good sharpener?
you are gonna need 3 things.
#1 Something to grind / sharpen. This is for when you are working with a totally dull piece of metal and need to remove relatively large amount of metal. (false edges, chips, re-profiling, major edge rolls)
#2 Something to hone / finer sharpening. This is when your knife is sharp but could be sharper, removes a minimal amount of metal.
#3 Something to strop / blade realign. This doesn't remove any metal. It just bends the very very tip of the edge straight.
If you want a knife so sharp you can dry shave your face with it you need #3. If you just want to do simple utility tasks #2 is fine, no need to go further if you don't want to.
I don't want to be mean, but sharpening a scandi grinded knife like Mora with a kitchen sharpener is not something you should do.
Buy a cheap sharpening stone and watch some Youtube videos that show you how it's done. IMO diamond stones are great, but that's just my opinion.
>mora companion is good first knife
It is. I've been using Moras since early 90's when I was a kid, back then it was the Mora Viking. Now I have some more expensive knives, but Mora is the one I use.
Again, don't buy a sharpener. Buy a sharpening stone (diamond one recommended). Stropping is really not necessary.
Fuck sake, do you really not understand supply and demand? When you buy a good knife, you generally have it forever, its a one time buy. Thats why they have to make producing knives worthwhile. If for example i could get a benchmade for $10 then have it forever, then that $10 is all benchmade will ever get out of me while i get a lifetime of use from their product.
If for example knives were a consumable item, lets say they last a month then they break or whatever, then they could charge a price much closer to the cost of manufacture because we'd be buying another knife every month anyway.
You know what else costs absolutely nothing to make? TVs and sunglasses, the companies making them will die pretty quickly though if they charge you a few dollars for something you'll buy once every 5 to 10 years though
Hey guys. I want to get my girlfriend a small, cheap knife as a gift for Christmas/her birthday. I was deciding between the Kershaw Shuffle (nice little knife, I gave one to my sister) and the CRKT Squid. Are there any other options out there I should know of?
Mainly EDC (live innawoods) thr Mora #2 and Opinel. If I'm doing heavy work or the weather is wet I'll use the Hudsonbay. But besides that I rotate from time to time. Got a safe full of vintage Case and Boker knives, but they don't come out.
found a use for the spay blade in the woods?`
ive really been wanting a more traditional folder but they spay blade just seems uselss. i mean like its a knife sure it doesnt really offer anything does it?
You can smack it with no damage.
3V might be a better steel merely for cutting and small knives, but INFI is miles better for prying, digging, chopping, etc...
It's also not bad at all edge-retention wise, better than most.
About the only advantage I have seen is drilling out a notch for a bow drill, but I mostly use pocket knives for skinning and food prep.
Been using a bearded viking hand axe lately and I'm really digging it. I can do fine carving with it, remove the head for skinning, and use it as a light chopper on saplings around 5 inches thick. Pretty lightweight also.
That there is a Littlefinger, kid brother to the Sharpfinger. Both good /out/ knives.
I've been called an idiot about it on here before, but I field dress deer with a trapper pocket knife with no issues. That said, I don't cut any bones while doing so. I use a heavier knife for that. A cheap Mora is a good tool for general use, but you just shouldn't push a cheap blade too hard.
The blade on my trapper that I use to open bellies is the spey blade. Keep it sharp as fuck, pinch a bit of skin and make a starting cut, then put it into the hole with your finger around the curve at the point and you can zip right up and down from ribcage to pelvis with it. Tie off the urethra and colon with a bit of string and cut around them the same way to remove them neatly and without getting shit and piss on your meat.
>I don't cut any bones while doing so.
That's the thing though, I wasn't hacking through bones with it.
I used some loppers on the legs, and a hatchet on the pelvis.
Only time I came close to bone with the knife was trying to find the hip joint to take the rear legs off.
The edge straightened back out, but it sure did look like shit after working on that deer.
It's like a beefier Curve with more function. I thought that meant I was going to love it, because I really like the Curve. Nope. At least the file on the curve works. Oh well. I'm the only one I know who doesn't like the Dime.
Why? The reason I'm asking is I see it hyped a lot, it's fuck off expensive and I don't really see how it's composition justifies this, 3V is immensely tough, tough enough that a 3mm blade hammered sideways into a tree will support a guy standing on the handle comfortably, also tough enough that you can baton it through mild steel plate with a hammer and yet it will hold an edge significantly better than INFI at similar hardness levels. Is it tougher than 5160?, I understand it would hold an edge better but I suspect it wouldn't be as tough.
>Is it tougher than 5160
Can you imagine a knife made from 5160?
>razor sharp after 30 seconds on a stone
>tough enough to pull nails and pry car doors open
>dulls when halfway through the sheet of paper you're cutting to show your buddy it's sharp
Yeah well that's kinda my point, INFI is probably tough as all fuck, but 3V is also ridiculously tough but assuming similar levels of HT quality it's going to hold an edge longer which is push come to shove, the purpose of a knife. If anyone is curious there are numerous 3v durability tests on youtube, if you break one made of 3v then you clearly dun goofed.
>Can you imagine a knife made from 5160?
there you go.
Got my hands on it 2 days ago.
I only found good-very good reviews on this.
The handle is very comfortable and the knife is balanced really well.
Carved some dried ash and it sliced through it like a mora.
Will take it innawoods today.
I guess I will ask this here too:
I need a decent full-size multitool for fishing. Preferably around $50, but would go closer to $100 if I really like it. Since it will mainly be for fishing, I want some good, long pliers, a knife, and that's about it. I don't need a million gadgets like lots of multitools. I have the Micra and Dime already in my tacklebox, but I want a full-size one to carry in my pocket when I don't have the bag with forceps and knives. Something that is light and compact.
I'm looking at the Skeletool. What is the difference between the regular Skeletool ($60) and Skeletool CX ($90)?
Anybody have any other reccommendations that I should check out before getting a Skeletool?
probably a stainless pakistan buck copy, those are mostly poorly made and junk. theyre so mass produced, everybody's owned at least one in their lives. i owned one. one of the fuckin pins fell out after i used it. i eventually gave it to a friend, who knows what he did with it
its the kinda knife you dont give a fuck about. ive tightened the pins with a hammer with that thing
I recently made the mistake of leaving my Condor Bushlore in the trunk of my car for a prolonged period of time, and because my car is an old piece of shit, some water got in and I now have rust spots on the blade. How do I fix this?
(Pic Semi-Related...not my knife)
Can someone give me some information on this type of knoife? It was posted in a knife thread on /b/, anon posted nothing but this pic.
Guys, I found this little guy some times ago in my grandfather's house.
It is extremely damaged and covered in rust. Do you have tips for cleaning it?
WD40 on the knife, leather preservative on the sheath.
Personally I use Viberg Heavy Duty Leather Preservative. Shit is fucking worth it's weight in gold.
If the sheath needs to be cleaned, mix equal parts white vinegar and water, use a soft lint free cloth and dampen it in the solution, wipe gently do not soak. Let dry momentarily and rub in leather preservative.
No, rust is not good for a knife, and he definitely needs to care for the leather or else it will rot.
He doesn't need to freaking polish the thing to look brand new, it's quite possible to remove the rust and shit and still keep the used look.
Thanks for the tip concerning the leather, I'll try it when I have some free time.
For the blade, I already rub it for 20 minutes with WD40 and a cloth. The blade is still stained as hell, I think the rust is too deep in it.
I'll not damage it more if I use it like that without removing rust ?
that knife just has some pitting, and leather doesn't rot as easy as you guys would have everyone believe. just like it doesn't matter what lock type your knife has. or any of the other shitty knife thread memes. it will be fine, don't destroy history just for the sake of it. you take steps to remove the rust, you're gonna take off the patina too and it's going to look like absolute shit. i know i wouldn't treat my grandfathers shit that way, if he had any.
fuck with the sheath if you have to, leave that knife alone.
yeah, nah, in this case you're just shitting all over his cool stuff
imagine that, kids that have no appreciation for history
it's not a fucking tool set, it's a military fighting knife
and it looks fine man, well, if you count the years of harmless patina you scrubbed off as fine. don't go out and start chopping down trees with it and you'll be okay.
Yeah. Do you think the military runs around with rusty knives?
Military has strict standards on how what shape you keep your shit in, or at least it did.
Do you think his grandpa, who grew up when men were men would like to have his grandchild use a rusty knife.
Get real kid, and go back to your liberal arts homework.
That knife has a patina, but not enough rust to count.
Stop putting shittyD-40 on your knife. Use honing oil. And don't take off any more patina. If you have specific rust spots you want to get rid of, get a cheap, small pocket whetstone and use a corner on them. What you have there is a perfectly acceptable condition for a heritage knife that isn't used. A good rubbing with BLO, beeswax, saddle soap, or baseball glove conditioner will protect the leather.