Discussion for high performance pads, rotors, and fluid goes here.
It's time for me to replace my brake pads and I was wondering what you fags thought. I am trying to decide between EBC Green Stuff ($128) and Hawk HPS ($137). Also I will be replacing my fluid with Motul RBF 600 ($19) and having my rotors turned/resurfaced. My car is a daily driver that I autocross a couple of times a year. The cost difference for a full set of pads isn't really that much so I am asking for your experiences, opinions, and anecdotal evidence.
ITT opinions of what works best on their specific caliper, rotor, car weight, and driving habits.
>inb4 "hawk hps and motul rbf660 cuz i heard it online"
you really did it this time op
I ran the stoptech full ceramic pads and their rotors on 3 of my 4 cars. Good rotors, pads are nice for the first 20k, then a bit of glazing forms and I sand with a foam block the pad surface to break the glaze.
My 4th car uses EBC Greenstuff pads and they do quite well, stops 3500 lbs fine. If you really want better braking though guys, swap drums for discs and go bigger with more pistons per caliper.
I have a 8mm wrench for brake bleeding, but I can't get it to turn. It looks like it's wearing out too. Switch to socket for turning and then back to wrench for the easy part?
Why dont people use sockets?
To get the most out of your brakes, you need good tires. Until you get a good set of tires, "high performance" pads and rotors will do absolutely nothing for you, and may even increase your stopping distance.
to break it down further, if you can lock up your tires/activate ABS with your current pads, new pads will do nothing. You will NEED better tires before you can improve your braking system.
For my track setup I I run a Brembo 4-piston in the front with Porterfield pads
^this, tires are everything. Without good tires, ANY modification you do to increase the performance of your car will be meaningless.
Was just about to make this same thread, thanks op
Been doing a lot of research and realized big brake kits aren't worth it unless you endurance track a lot of laps. Also slotted and drilled rotors gave no performance boost with the quality of modern rotors.
Had a 2003 VW Passat, now a 2010 Audi A4
Absolutely LOVE the combination of Zimmerman rotors and Akebono Euro ceramic brake pads. They stop quickly, wear well, and pic very related
>not buying brake pads based soly on the fact that their team has an itasha drift car...
>drum brakes dragging hard enough to hold my car on a steep incline without touching the pedal
>adjust and readjust 4 times
>settle for absolute shit braking with no/very little dragging
I think I'll just buy a disc conversion kit.
It's 45 years old senpai, and also light as fuck so when the drums were working right it was pretty good. The linings are probably shot and the drums are definitely warped. That's why I considered a conversion kit, since it probably needs a bunch of new brake stuff anyway.
On most cars you can retrofit other OEM parts to do a conversion for cheap. I'll be doing the rear brakes from an S10 blazer for mine, and it damn near bolts on to classic Chevys
carbotech xp10 front and xp8 rear with centric/stoptech slotted rotors are pretty great combo. I'd grab a seperate set of 1521's for street to not get the nasty screeching though
What car? My Fiesta ST's stock pads are that level of garbage, and the aftermarket seems to be sadly lacking as well. (I think I'm gonna try the new Mountune ones next, they seem to be the most promising streetable pads on the market.)
I've loved mine so far. Got the brakes hot enough to melt the caliper seal on the rear left, and still got 0 fade. Also plenty of pad left after about an hour on track.
they're noisy and dust like crazy, but ya, these are by no means street pads anyways.
Are you guys trolling or just autistic?
Not that tires aren't the single most important upgrade you can make to a car, but pad upgrades are about fade, not about first-time stopping distance. Pretty much any brake setup can lock up any streetable tire once, upgraded pads give you the ability to slow the car down again and again in succession and maintain pedal feel and consistency while doing it. That concern is pretty much completely unrelated to tire choice. (Aside from having to brake less with good tires since you can carry more speed into the corner.)