/BQG/ - Bike Questions General

Ultra sport II is reasonably quick, not particularly heavy, but not terribly puncture resistant. It's a tradeoff you make for a cheap tyre.

I'd personally go for a wider tyre, 32-38, something from near the top of here: http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/tour-reviews depending on the conditions you ride in. If there are thorns then the standard marathon/GT/plus might be necessary unless you want to spend all day changing tubes.

Narrower tyres are not fundamentally quicker than wider ones, and you lose a lot of suspension.

If you want to blow all the budget something like compass tyres are very quick and light.

>>1068420
I went with Conti Supersport plus, they tout it as a good commuter tire that is "nearly impenetrable" and reviews were positive, from what i saw. so that is good enough for me. worst case scenario i can always return it

>>1068420
I've been super pleased with the Compass tires that I have used - 700Cx35, 700Cx44, and 650Bx48. Most of them are out of stock right now, though :(

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SQUARE TAPER

> try a crank puller, it just pulls the aluminum threads out of the crank
> try a gear puller, nothing happens and it can't get a good grip due to the geometry

repeat six times:
> blowtorch it until the plastic on the bottom bracket starts melting
> soak it in liquid wrench
> put a piece of bar stock against various places on the crank and bash it with a sledgehammer
> stand on the pedals and jump up and down

It didn't even move. How do I remove this bastard thing?

>>1068429
I once removed crancs wuth stripped crank puller threads usin an angle grinder. The axle was long enough so I could cut the bb axle between the crank and the frame. Once the axle was cut the rest of the bb was easy to remove ftom the frame.

After that I heated the last axle pieces stuck in the cranks with a hair dryer. After they were hot enough I was able to get tem off by inserting a bolt to the axle's threads and tapping the bolt with a hammer.

Square taper never again

>>1068431

Thanks, yeah maybe I'll have to cut it.

>>1068429
Pickle fork sometimes works but can damage the frame. If the bike is built up, pedal it HARD with the fixing bolt loose. The crank will pop off. Just be careful.

>>1068429
When I was pulling my square BB last year, the crank puller basically wasn't pushing against the right spot.
I used a small nut to bridge the gap and provide a bit more to push against and worked like a charm.

Does anyone know what the deal is with garmins not pairing with ant devices if you pause it for a while then resume? Just never picks them up, even trying to manually sync.

>>1068405
Does anybody here do a long commute to work? My work is about ~20 miles, most of it is down a nice bike trail (so no cars or stopping at intersections). The morning commute would be uphill for parts, probably a few hundred feet total climb.

It would be about 2 hours each way, but I'm thinking I could do it once a week. My main concern is being sweaty when I show up to work... I work in an office. Does anybody have any suggestions for that? Obviously I wouldn't wear my dress clothes while biking, I'd change at the office. But are there certain bike clothes I should look into to minimize sweating? Any other suggestions? There's no shower at work.

I'm building a new set of wheels for my mtb. Is Hope the only company that makes purple hubs? The purple color would match the frame really nice but I would like to try another hub brand for a change, nothing against hope.

>>1068507
Baby wipes, a towel and deodorant.
If you shower before leaving home, then wipe yourself down with the baby wipes on arrival and dry then put on deodorant (while getting changed in toilet). The smell of sweat is from the bacteria so the shower gets rid of bacteria, then babywipes remove the sweat before it can start to drink, then deodorant will cover any remnants and make you feel cleaner.

>>1068559
>Is Hope the only company that makes purple hubs?
Of course not. I'd imagine most companies that offer multiple ano colours would do purple. These are ones I could find that definitely do purple:
Rideworks
Industry Nine
Onyx
Chris King
Circus Monkey
Halo
DMR
White Industries
Profile
Project 321

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How do you tell a flat bar road bike from a flat bar cyclocross bike?

>>1068572
By the tyres, just like how you tell a cyclocross bike from a road bike.

>>1068572
By the chainstay length, the touring chainset, the top tube length, the fork angle and rake, the type of wheels and the gearing - I can tell that this is not a flat bar CX but a hybrid.
You can stop now, Boardman.

>>1068572
By the fact that there are no flat bar cyclocross bikes

I'm preparing for a tour that crosses another country, and I'll be doing it on my 90s MTB since that's all I've got.
On Monday I'll be riding about 80km there and if something happens there's no one to come and pick me up.
What do I need to carry?

I've got
- 1l water bottle
- 1x spare tube, puncture repair kit, tool to remove the tyre from the rim, and a hand pump
- basic first aid - rubbing alcohol, cotton, gauze and tape, diarrhea and allergy pills
- phone with offline GPS navigation and an external battery

>>1068599
Multi tool with hex key set and chain breaker (or a seperate chain breaker if yours doesn't have it)
Adjustable wrench (only if your bike uses such bolts)
Cash (which doubles as tire boot)
Something to munch on (candy, nuts, dried fruits)
80km isn't that far so I wouldn't worry too much.
Good luck.

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>>1068604
>Multi tool with hex key set and chain breaker (or a seperate chain breaker if yours doesn't have it)
Ah yes a hex for the steering is a good idea, I don't have a chain breaker however.
The chain is practically brand new at least, and it feels like everything that was going to brake on the bike already did and was fixed or replaced.
>Adjustable wrench (only if your bike uses such bolts)
The rims have quick release, I might get a 10mm wrench for the brakes
>Cash (which doubles as tire boot)
Yes, goes without saying
>Something to munch on (candy, nuts, dried fruits)
I'll be passing through a lot of small villages, water and food shouldn't be too much of an issue
>80km isn't that far so I wouldn't worry too much.
Yes, I'm just worried about riding abroad and having some sort of accident, even if both are EU countries
>Good luck.
Thanks I'm very excited about it.

>>1068612
>Ah yes a hex for the steering is a good idea, I don't have a chain breaker however.
Buy a CB m17. They're cheap, light and have "everything". But for an 80 km """tour""" all you need is a bottle of water, a phone and enough cash to call a cab if you must. I wouldn't (and don't) carry more. Not even a spare tube...
A bag of salted nuts is nice to snack on while riding and if you plan to stop at cafés in the villages you pass you don't even need the water bottle.

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How fucked is the fork of my CX bike?
Just found out it looks like this but I never had any problems with it.

>>1068620
Do you have enough length to chop the cracked section off? If so it's all good, just remember next time to not overtighten your stem and make sure there's a spacer above it. If it's not long enough then time for a new fork.

>>1068620
>How fucked is the fork of my CX bike?
Fucked as fuck. This is why you _always_ have a spacer stack on top so that the stem clamps against the bung and doesn't crush the steerer. Lesson learned, anon?
>>1068623
>Do you have enough length to chop the cracked section off? If so it's all good
No. There's no way of knowing how far down the delamination might have propagated. Unless you have X-ray vision.

>>1068627
>There's no way of knowing how far down the delamination might have propagated
Cut it off below the crack, if it's still splitting apart then cut it further down, if it's all in one piece then it's good.

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>>1068623
>>1068627
Sad reacs only

>>1068629
No, you idiot. Not a "splitting apart". A delamination where the crack might have caused one or more layers to come unstuck to each other within the tube wall, making it significantly weaker without seemingly being damaged.

>>1068633
You can easily see if the layers are separated from the end of the tube. If after cutting the layers aren't separated then they're not going to randomly be separated further down the tube. If they were then they'd be like that regardless of the crack at the top and so you'd never know about it.

>>1068635
>You can easily see if the layers are separated from the end of the tube.
No. That's that. They're pressed together by the rest of the structure. You're an idiot.

>>1068636
By separated I mean they no longer bonded together, not that there's going to be a gap between them. If you look well enough and maybe even try poking a needle between the layers it will be clear if they're delaminated or not.

Not that it matters anyway as the guy can't cut the steerer any shorter.

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>>1068637
>you can easily identify a sub-micron crack by eye
>in the middle of a hacksaw cut
Are you the densest motherfucker ever? No, you can't. That's why you drench even the slightest damage in low viscosity cyanoacrylate, sand away material well, well away from the damage and build it back up. You don't just chop a centimetre off, hope the rest is good and call it a day.
But yeah, I forgot - you have Superman eyes.

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>>1068429

have you tried removing the crank bolt?

>>1068405
I bought an old ass bike that sat in a garage for 20 years.
Would wd-40 work to get all the old grease/dirtnshit off or would that just prevent me from being able to apply new lube in the future?
I dont have proper degreaser and am too dumb to take the chain off properly...

>>1068684
Chances are you should be replacing the chain whether or not you fuck it up with wd40

>>1068405
schwalbe marathons maybe ?

http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/tour-reviews/schwalbe-marathon-2015

>>1068684

White vinegar would be a better choice than wd-40

I am entirely fucking inept at setting up derailleurs. I ENJOY building bikes, painting frames, I can tune all of mine just fine, but on the initial setup I just go full mouth breather.

I can't figure out the fucking initial tension or position, so it literally does nothing when I shift - front or rear - and every god damn video is about TUNING, not initial setup.

Less a question, more a complaint about me as a human man having to rely on my LBS for this shit.

>>1068684
WD40 is fine for cleaning and unsticking things, but as other anons have pointed out it's not very good as a lubricant. The best way to restore an old chain, if it's not too rusty or worn to be beyond salvage is to take it off the bike (you need the proper tool, a chain breaker) then soak it in a jar full of kerosene - spraying your chain with WD40 is basically doing the same thing the lazy and much less effective way, since the main hydrocarbon in the WD40 formula is kerosene. Either way, whether you do it well or poorly, after cleaning the crud off the chain with kerosene, you'll need to relubricate with a proper lubricant that's not going to evaporate/wear off quickly.

>>1068716
Initial derailer setup in seven steps that even a retard can't fuck up if you actually follow them:
1. disconnect both cables completely and make sure both shifters are set so that they're not pulling any cable into the shifter at all
2. set the rear derailer's high limit so that the chain lines up with the smallest cog on the cassette and doesn't fall off when you manually push/release the RD
3. connect RD cable, tug on the cable to release any slack caught in the housing, adjust cable tension for proper indexing
4. set RD low limit so that the chain doesn't fall off into the spokes
5. With the chain on the largest rear cog, adjust your FD limit screw.
6. connect FD cable, tug cable to release any slack in the housing, adjust cable tension for correct indexing (you may need to manually pull more cable through and retighten the bolt, especially if you're dealing with recent model Shimano FDs, the cable adjust may not take up enough slack).
7. set your FD high limit screw so that you can't throw the chain off the outside of the cranks when shifting.

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I could get my hands on some bontrager duster elite 650b wheelse real cheap but they are 142x12 in the back.
I remeber having red that you can get endcaps for the duster elite wheels to get the from 135 to 142. are there kits to get the back down ?

the wheels come from a giant anthem if that makes a difference

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I replaced my chain and now it bounces off the lower wheel in the rear derailleur when im on the small ring. Really annoying and it basically means I can only ride in the big ring. Gear indexing is totally fine, it shifts well. The derailleur cage seems a bit non-straight so im thinking maybe thats it, but why was this no problem with the old chain?

>>1068746
I made the new chain have the same amount of links as the old one, so its a bit shorter in length without the stretching.

>>1068747
It needs to be shorter. Perhaps you never noticed the issue you have now, because you did not cross chain before.

>>1068749
its actually fine on the small ring in the smaller cogs, problem arises when I get to the bigger ones. For the big ring all cogs are fine.

>>1068745
Did you thread the chain through the derailleur properly? When I did this I fucked up one of the bits it had to go under.

>>1068753
yes I did, I did it wrong too the previous time. Now I had another bike to look at to make sure I did it correctly.

>>1068752
Okay, I misread initial post. Could be lots of things anon. Please describe the action as well as possible. Potentially, you have a worn jockey wheel, which might be fine after the chain stretches a bit. Derailleur and jockey wheels could need cleaning and lubing. Derailleur could need tiny tension adjustment or b screw adjustment. Check that axle is seated in drop outs

>>1068756
> why was this no problem with the old chain?
To answer this, likely because you rode that chain too long, the teeth on your drive train components wear out with the worn chain rollers which are smaller than fresh chain rollers. Also, you are touching things and fiddling, moving dirt and grit into things, adjustments can eschew slightly enough to cause small malfunction.

>>1068756
>>1068758
well the lower roller is rolling right at the edge of the chain in the problem gears, and then he chain pops out and back in continuously. Its like the lower half of the derailleur cage is sideways or something. Its just a bit strange that this problem only really shows itself with the new chain. Im a bit hesitant to get a new derailleur because money, but also to simply get new rollers because they dont look too worn to me so I dont think thats the issue.

>>1068716
You won't get cable tension right if your limit screws aren't setup first. If you are building bikes up, it is easiest and best to set your limits and front alignment with the chain off. Fd cage parallel to chain wheels, should have 2mms of clearance as it swings over large ring. Look through cage from above and visually check low and high position. Use your hand to swing it manually and set limits and alignment. Do the same for rd. Stand behind and align jockey wheels slightly inside small cog, and slightly outside large cog(away from spokes). Then make sure your shifters are neutral and pull you cable through. Pop chain on. Use barrel adjuster for fine tuning.

>>1068761
Rollers are the cylindrical chain part, jockey wheels or pulley wheels are the toothed derailleur part.

So the chain is not seating on teeth of the lower(closest to the ground) jockey wheel? It just sits on the edge of it? Sorry, I need clarification.

>>1068770
yes, moves more towards the edge the larger the cog im in. I tried adjusting some things but I cant seem to fix it without completely screwing up the indexing.

>>1068771
Is the chain the right width? (10 speed chain for 10 speed drive train)

>>1068745
Is your roller loose maybe? if it wore down along with the old chain then it might have "just worked" but now that the new chain isn't as stretched it's giving you problems

>>1068773
yes, but its a KMC chain instead of a shimano one. But it says its compatible with 11 speed shimano so should be the correct one.
>>1068774
what could indicate a worn out roller?

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>>1068776
pic related, the one on the left is new, and moving to the right are progressively worn rollers

>>1068780
It's the front shifting.
>>1068776
You need to adjust your inner limit screw. Screw it in until the cage prevents the chain from falling off without giving you rub and while still downshifting consistently. Your brand new chain is slightly stiffer than the old worn one, and your cabling setting and ageing would put the cage further inward than it was when the old chain was new.
You might even want to get a chain catcher.

>>1068780
note, the more worn a roller is the less "purchase" it will have on a chain, which could be causing it to bounce off if they have not "worn" together

>>1068782
>it's the front shifting

what? i know that,

those aren't cassette rings (?)

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>>1068782
It;s not bouncing off of his front chainring, the way i read, it's bouncing off at pic related, yeah?

>>1068785
yes

>>1068786
alright. my best guess here is that it's just worn enough to not have good purchase on the new chain, or it might even be loose. take a look at it and see if it's wobbly a bit and if it is you should be able to just tighten it back so it stays straight.

otherwise they are easy/cheap to replace and usually cost <$10-15 unless you're getting a fancy ceramic one or whatever

I found old Dura-Ace brake pads at home, how do they compare with cheaper pads brand like SwissStop ? Or even like 105 one (since they look the same) ?

Also, is it autistic to use dry pads, in front, with wet ones, rear or even 1 in each wheel, instead of 4 seasons ones (seem like bullshit).

>>1068796
Old brake pads will always perform worse

How do i mount a pannier rack on the rear of my bike, it has the mounting points at the end of the seatstays/near the casette but there's none up the top near the saddle clamp. Are there specific racks made for this?

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>>1068842
if there are no points to attach it up near the clamp, get a couple of these from a hardware store

they're called p-clamps and they come in a ton of different sizes

>>1068843
Any more of an... elegant(?) solution, that looks nasty and probably isn't the most reliable

>>1068844
not really, it's what ive seen most everyone use for this problem. And in terms of reliability, i had a rack on my bike for 3 years in all weather conditions and never once had an issue with the clamps

>>1068844

I'm running a pizza rack on my fork with those things and it's stable af.

they might not be elegant but the work well and cost almost nothing

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>>1068843
>>1068845
>>1068847
Would a solution like this work?

>>1068848
thats what it's made for, so yeah probably. depends on rack/bike geometry but im sure they're made to fit on whatever

>>1068841
They are still sealed, I bought them something like 5 years ago. Will it really change (much) anything ?

I got given a frankenstein xc mountain bike recently. It's a fairly old kona, I'm guessing 2004/5, but a bunch of mismatched parts.

Now everything works well enough aside from the front wheel which I can't for the life of me get to spin properly. I've taken the wheel off and spun it between my fingers and it seems OK but as soon as I put it on somethings rubbing. It's also gotten a lot worse since I've taken the wheel off.

I'm thinking it must be something to do with the disc, no? What are the checks I should run through to try and isolate the problem if not?

I'm a tightwad and somewhat of a poorfag that doesn't want to take it to a shop if he can help it.

>>1068848

most definitly

>>1068859
It would be quite obvious if the tyre was rubbing so I'll assume you've ruled that one out.

If you remove the brake caliper and it's still rubbing then it could be that the disc is rubbing the fork or possibly even the bolts that hold the disc on. If it doesn't rub then it's safe to assume it's the disc rubbing inside the caliper.

First thing to check is that the disc is actually straight, you can either hold something close to the disc and spin the wheel and see if the distance changes or align the caliper with the disc and look down from where the pads are inserted to see if the disc moves side to side. If the disc is bent then you can try straightening it out by bending in the opposite direction, an adjustable wrench works well for this.

If the disc is straight and the rubbing is constant then either the caliper isn't aligned or the pistons aren't fully retracted and are pushing the pads onto the disc. If it's the latter remove the pads and try pushing the pistons back into the caliper with something like a tyre lever, you may need to remove the bleed screw or reservoir lid at the brake lever to do so.

As a returning mountain biker, please help me understand the following.

Why can't people make gears that work on a $1000 bike. My mtb was 2x11 and shifted like shit.
> convert to 1x10 they all said.
OK, did that and spent loads on new derailleur, now shifts slightly better but grinds like chain is full of gravel. Why in 2017 can't they fix it??

>>1068870
Sounds to me like you don't know how to setup your derailers.

>>1068873
I followed instructions to the letter

Then passed it to experts. 20-30 miles later, same issues

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Looking for a bike similar to a cross bike except with straight handlebars, pic related. I'm in Europe and on a budget. Can anyone make a suggestion?

>>1068883
>I'm in Europe and on a budget
So is NASA. Specify, you idiot.

>>1068883
Do you want a suspension fork? If so it's essentially a 29" hardtail mountain bike with some skinny tyres.

>>1068884
Wouldn't want to go much over 700€, I might have to buy used anyways.
>>1068885
Suspension fork would be nice but not necessary if it drops the price.

>>1068887
>Wouldn't want to go much over 700€
The cheapest worthwhile one I know of is the Kona Dew at a tad under €400. You give up disc brakes, but it's a perfctly cromulent workhorse. That's a hybrid rather than a cross bike, because of reasons I'll soon get into.
Spend a bit more and you have the Pinnacle Lithium/Neon ranges and Charge Grater.
>Suspension fork would be nice but not necessary if it drops the price.
Decide on this. Hybrid suspension forks are heavy, useless and suck in exactly every way. Proper suspension forks are awesome but very expensive and very high maintenance. You generally have a specified service interval of 50 hours of use, or less. If you want suspension you're looking for an XC mountainbike and not a cross bike.

>>1068889
Thanks for the reply! When I got my previous piece of shit bike I had no idea what to look out for and I got a hybrid one with suspension that turned out to be pretty shitty. If these proper suspension forks require that much maintenance, then I'll do away with them (convenience). I'll look up those bikes and see if any shops nearby have them.

>>1068874
Sounds like they aren't really experts. Try a different LBS

>>1068883
Marin Muirwoods

>>1068889
>That's a hybrid rather than a cross bike, because of reasons I'll soon get into.
Any flat bar bike he describes is going to be a hybrid, cross bikes with flat bars don't exist.

>>1068883
Kona Dew Plus
Trek FX
Specialized Sirrus
Cannondale Bad Boy
Giant Escape
GT Tachyon

>>1068887
>suspension fork
Are you a fucking moron? No, don't get a fucking suspension fork unless you're getting a legit mountain bike for legit mountain biking. If you get a hybrid with a suspension fork I fucking promise you'll regret it. It is literally the worst thing you could do. Even worse than killing a baby and eating it.

>>1068893
It's not even that suspension forks require maintenance, it's that they are expensive (unless you get a shit-tier one which you'll hate, like the one you have now) and heavy. They add a lot of weight to the bike. If you're not riding technical mountain bike terrain (riding over rocks and logs and such) then you don't need suspension. And it doesn't sound like you are going to be using this bike for mountain biking.

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I red that mavic wheelsets use a proprietary freehub and that I can use effectivly any cassette on them with the right spacer combination.

is that true ?

I actually want to run a 11 speed shimano cassette on a older aksium race wheelset.

>>1068998

can we like, get a sticky with this in it ?

and maybe "just get a 90s rigid mtb with slicks"

what's the shortest reasonable stem length for a roadbike ?
I suck at going long.

what do guys use to navigate ?
is google maps allright ?
is there a offline solution ?

>>1069098
90mm. 100mm is considered on the short end but acceptable. 90mm is considered slightly shorter than acceptable and an indicator might be on a a bike too big for you, but practically speaking, usable. 80mm is if you're a midget and there is no smaller frame size and you still need the bike to fit. 70mm is what the fuck are you doing zone.

>>1069101

okay then it will be 100 or 90.
if have a problem with my hip and my reach is terrible.

how ever I have no problem with riding a sick saddle to bar drop.

I wanna buy a bike that will eventually allow me to ride to work like 20km away. What should I be looking at?

I know I won't be able to do it right off the bat but I'll build up to it over the next 3-6 months.

>>1069130
Anything as long as it is the right size, unless you have special needs (like mountain biking and so), will do for touring 40km.

And it will take like 1 month if you start from 0 and are diligently training.

>>1069099
I use HERE Maps (I think they're calle HereWeGo now, haven't updated in ages). You can download the map of a whole city then navigate offline

>>1068851
Try them, if they haven't hardened up they should work just fine

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>>1069131
Would this do?

>>1068870
Is there any way you can more accurately describe the issues that you're having?

> brake fluid is oozing out of the lever on each pull

Fuck me. Hydro dicks are a meme.

>>1069160
learn to maintain your shit

Total noob to this board, I come from /out/
So I do a lot of biking, both around town and innawoods, but I have no clue about bike repair, be it basic or advanced, since I never had the need to repair anything (other than putting the chain back in if it goes out):
Can any of you guys recommend me a decent, not-too-technical bike repair manual/book?

>>1069164
Park Tool's Blue Book

>>1069098
>>1069108
Use whatever length you need to feel comfortable and don't give a shit about what anyone else thinks. There's no reason you can't run 50mm if you want, road bikes steer like boats anyway due to the huge forward extension of the bars.

>>1069131
>1 month of training to be able to ride 20km
I suppose if it's a child that's never ridden a bike before.

>>1069160
SRAM?

>>1069164
Sheldon brown.

Park tools for more modern mountain bikes.

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>>1069099
>is there a offline solution ?
A literal map.

More seriously tho, printed maps generally aren't convenient to refer to while you're riding along unless they're very small, so the usual way of getting around that is to look up directions before you go and either create a cue sheet or draw yourself a little diagram of the roads you'll need to follow.

Pic related is a detailed cue sheet for a longer organized ride.

>>1069139
It will. How much it cost tough ?

>>1069186
I mean, comfortably, above 25km/h average. No, it's not as easy as it sound, yes you should train to do it (as gradually increasing the length and speed, not as using a fucking 800€ roller every two days). Stop being an idiot.

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>>1068599
Just came here to say I did the 82km today, and there were some mechanical problems and I made some planning mistakes.
I had only passed through that road by car so I didn't realize just how relentlessly uphill the first 30km are, and the bike really wasn't 100% mechanically sound.
The rear dérailleur dropped the chain into the spokes a couple of times, out of 6 cogs in the cassette only the smallest 3 are indexed reliably, it was a nightmare going uphill for so long a bike in this state.
The worst part was at the steepest incline the quick release on the rear wheel let go and the tyre slammed into the chainstay, I blame my weight for that mostly.
Should have brought more food, I passed through several villages but literally nobody was working at that time of the day, so I couldn't buy anything.
At least water was easy to find since it's an agricultural area and there's plenty of roadside water taps for farmers and animals.
It wasn't the longest but it was the most demanding trip I've had so far.

>>1069216
But why would he need to average 25km/h? You'd need to be seriously unfit not to be able to manage 20km/h for one hour.

>>1069164

youtube.

no shit.

if youtube leaves you hanging this very bike question general can usually sort you out.

also sheldon browns website is a incredible resource

>>1069224

probs for doing the ride.
food is super tricky and a seperate skill to learn.

and bike wise, I think I had to have everything fail atleast once and I allways had to fix shit myselfe because I am /was poor.
It makes you a better rider in the long run.

>>1069224
You've only got yourself to blame for the mechanical issues.
And I told you to bring something to snack on.

>>1069098
I rode 40mm for a while, which felt a bit twitchy at first but it worked. It didn't really feel weird once I got used to it.

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>>1069239
I'll take a look at the rear dérailleur because this is just unacceptable.
And I will be getting a new bottom bracket this week, it's some old Italian standard and the local bike shops don't have them in stock.

>>1069251
>You've only got yourself to blame for the mechanical issues.
True, and I underestimated the roads
>And I told you to bring something to snack on.
I ate a croissant when I set off, and I thought I'd be able to buy more food there.
I'll take some honey bars like these next time.

>>1069224
>The worst part was at the steepest incline the quick release on the rear wheel let go and the tyre slammed into the chainstay
>I blame my weight for that mostly.
I blame your not fucking fastening it properly. QRs don't magically open them selves if done up. The lever should start resisting when pointing straight out.
Also, fucking straighten your derailleur hanger and set the limiter screw, pleb. It's basic shit.

Congrats on the ride though, and not hurting yourself.

whats your guys take on zero setback seatposts on roadbikes ?

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Where's another good place to shop online? I've been using competitive cyclist almost exclusively and I just now noticed I've been getting charged $20 for shipping (UPS 2nd day Air) because I live in fucking Hawaii.

>>1069287
If you need one there's nothing wrong with it. I've got one on my bike because i like to be a bit more forward than usual positioning

>>1069232
'cause 25 is easy and he will travel under an hour. It's not only a speed problem, he will do 40km everyday, of course he need to train even if he's fit.

>>1069299
25km/h is indeed easy, what I'm say is that 20km/h for one hour should be easily doable without training for a month. Over time he will get quicker and it won't be long before he's at 25km/h but he should be able to do the trip in an hour straight away unless he's very unfit or has some sort of medical condition. He's also not doing 40km in one go, there's an ~8 hour gap in between during which he'll have time to eat, drink, and rest.

>>1069294
ChainReactionCycles

>>1068431

why is square taper so bad?

>>1069337
It's heavy, noodly and a chore to work with.

>>1069287
You use them on frames with a seat tube angle that is designed for them, mostly you see this on mtb because seat posts can break at the curve of the offset when ridden hard. You don't use them to shorten your reach. Saddle fore/aft position is set to achieve ideal position relative to the pedals, not the bars, you use stem length for that purpose. If you are putting a zero offset post on a bike not designed for one to shorten reach, you need a smaller frame.

You can however do whatever the hell your want to make your bike feel comfortable to you.

>>1069337
You can't sell Fred's the latest newer bike every 6 months if a new bb design doesn't come out tomorrow. Noobs can't seem to get cranks off them. Really the only inferiority is having a less stiff spindle, which is stiff enough for all applications other than competition where a second matters. They are otherwise superior.

You guys use any specific tubes? I've been buying Continental for the last few years and been really happy with them, but a buddy told me he never pays for name brand. I use Gatorskin tires and rarely ever flat

>>1069216
200. I suppose that's a decent price to pay for it.

>>1069279
Pasteli is boss

>>1069163

I rode it all winter, that probably fucked up. And I didn't know that you're not supposed to turn it upside down to work on it.

Well, now I get to learn how to repair it.

>>1069186

> SRAM?

Kektro.

>>1069164
Links are supposed to be in the OP post but OP is a fucktard dumbass faggot like always and left them out. Fuck you OP, literally kill yourself.
Anyway anon, these are the best resources:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
http://sheldonbrown.com/

If you want a physical book, get the Park Tool Blue Book, but imo you're better off just using those websites

>>1069364
Tubes are pretty much all the same but I like Sunlite just because they have so many offerings (I can get the valve stem length I want etc), Bike Fanatik website sells them cheap.

>>1069442
ive never seen either of those links posted in the OP of a BQG

>>1069451
Last /bqg/: >>1063588
Second to last /bqg/: >>1057842
Third to last /bqg/ is 404d but that had them too, fourth to last may have as well
Now stop defending the faggot OP, faggot

>>1069131
>touring
>40km

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>>1069131
>touring 40km
anon, my sides have exploded

>>1069351

thanks !

for me it's not about reach, but I usually have my saddle pretty much all the way forward on a normal setback seatpost. apparently I have short femurs.

and I think I could achive this position easily with a zero setback. the redundance of the setback in my case bothers me more than it should.

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What are some good flat pedals?

I already had three pair and they all broke.
Fucking hell, I'm not even heavy
t.75kg

>>1069483

are you sure you don't confuse "shitty pieces of plastic that are put on bikes that aren't going to be ridden anyway" with flat pedals ?

the only pair of flatpedals that I broke where some stupid ultra light magnesium flat pedals straight from china and that only happen in a freak accident.

I have a pair of super cheap mtb flat pedals made from alu lying around that I had on my first few fixies.
there's barly any paint left on them on the contact points and they are scratched af from pedal strinking and dropping bikes in drunken university student stuppor but they are still 100% usable.

however , I currently run a pair of azonic americana on my beater and my mtb and they are stupendously comfortable and grippy

>>1069483
Shimano Saints are the best I have ever used, DMR are immitations.

>>1068659

Underrated post.

I've got Shimano 105 5600 triple shifters for a triple crankset and triple front derailleur. I'm converting to a double crankset and a double front derailleur-can the old shifters be reused with brand new gear cables, or will there be gearing issues?

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Im trying to remove my cranks from my bike but cant remove the nuts. I tried using socket wrench but the space was too tight. Any recs on how to remove it? Was my socket just too large or do i need some special tool for this?
pic related

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How concerned should I be about the wear on my tires?

>>1069569
there is a special tool for it, go to your LBS

>>1069569
14mm thin socket, or a special tool from a LBS

>>1069572
looks like every other tire i see on a commuter bike at my LBS i work at. You still have some life brotha, if you cant see through the hole or poke your finger through you're fine. Keep riding. Replace in a few months.

>>1069569
Every 14mm socket I have ever tried fits. You must have been trying a size too large, use 14mm.

>>1069517
You can't screw an extractor in with the crank bolt still there. Since he pulled out the threads, we know the bolt us removed. But a washer could be the culprit. Some crank bolts don't have flanged heads, but instead have a washer. If the washer is not removed, the crank puller will just strip the threads.

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>>1069575
Buy any regular 14mm socket.

Grind it as needed.
It also helps to re-temper it.

Don't own a grinder?
I pity the damned..

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What happens if I use a tube marked 2.00-2.35 in a 2.4" tire?

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>>1069588
It's even more annoying on cassettes.

>>1069337
it isn't bad. I don't get what these guys issue is, but I've ridden nothing but ST since I was a teen (so, over 20 years now). and I still use the same Park crank puller that I bought for the first bike. never had a single issue.

just make sure the threads on the shell and crank puller don't have grit in them, are greased, and thread it carefully so you don't get cross-threaded. in other words, take standard precautions and don't be an idiot.

basically, this
>>1069357

>>1069595
It'll be fine, tube sizing isn't exact and neither is tyre sizing and tubes can stretch by a lot to make up any difference.

>>1069595
The tube can fill that tire, but the more you expand the rubber the weaker it will operate, and the faster it will wear.

>>1069483
look at stuff from MKS (I have some Lambdas that I like, but they make many flat models)

also I have some VP-500s that I guess were for BMX that I like quite a bit. pretty light and very durable, I've replaced the bearings a few times but the pedal itself won't die. doesn't look like they're still made but there's a ton of flats on the VP website

>>1069599
>>1069602
Thanks

>>1068848
>>1068849
>>1068863
I ordered a similar unit, it was a pain in the ass finding one with the right diameter. It got here today.
Turns out that the cut in it is on the other side from my current seatpost clamp. Will clamping the tube from the 'wrong' side hurt it? Or will the force work its way around to the right side kind of
Cheers!

How often should one change tyres on a road bike?

Is ~2000km too early? Too late?

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I'm planning on building a new bike for touring

currently I ride a road bike from 1990 with an Old Man Mountain pannier rack mounted to the quick release

it works 'okay' but the wheel moves around in the dropout if my pannier bags are too heavy

I have a bunch of nice parts to put a new bike together but I need a 58cm steel road/touring frame that has a 1" threaded fork, DT shifter mounts, and eyelets for a proper rear rack

what should I get? I'm willing to spend a few hundred. Surly is the name that keeps cropping up but I heard they are made out of old drain pipes.

any assistance or advice would be appreciated.

if anyone's curious, the parts I have are

>H Plus Son rims
>1980s Suntour Superbe group
>1980s Campy Record hubs and DT shifters
>anodized TTT stem, Cinelli bars

this bike is gonna be beautiful but I can't find a fucking frame

>>1069798
Depends completely on the state of them, care to share a photo with us?

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>>1069800
That picture sinks of Portland Cancer

>loaded bike
>AAAND A BACKPACK

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>>1069803
Here's the pic. They're hutchinson equionox 2, came with the bike and supposedly they're pretty shitty.

They got a weird feel in tighter turns, the start to squeal and vibrate and i tend to get the feelong I'll slip, but that's probably just my paranoia.

>>1069800

no offence but maybe you should save tha stuff for a nice bling build and get something practical for touring

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>want to commute to work by bike
>deathly afraid of commuting 10 miles into the woods after midnight because wolves, bears, sasquatch, etc.

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does anyone have an idea what is the part above the pedals in the middle on this bike? and what it is for?
it's up for auction and I want to bid on it just to find out.
thank you for your time.

>>1069853
it's a battery for the motor in the rear hub

Hey, my front rim is slightly dented and it rubs. The previous owner basically rode with looser brakes than I am comfortable with. Is there anything I can do at home that will help this? Should I get my wheels straightened or should I just invest in new wheels at this point?

>>1069885
Take it a bike shop they might be able to true them (straighten them). Sounds like it might just be super worn out wheel though and might need a new one

>>1069885
You can true it yourself if the wobble isn't too massive, it won't be perfect but at least it can be a temporary fix until you get a new rim. You can also straighten the dent with some pliers.

>>1069885
Other anon is right, might be able to true, but likely have to replace

>>1069800
Surlys are good, ignore the anti-Surly shills, but idk that any Surlys have dt shifter mounts/threaded headsets. Dt shifter mounts are uncommon on modern bikes so you might end up having to go old/used or custom. I think either Biancho or Raleigh (forgot which, thinking Bianchi) still makes a bike with dt shifters etc, basically a currently-produced 80s road bike, but it probably has geometry closer to a road bike than a touring bike.
If you don't insist on dt shifters and threaded headset, I would recommend Salsa Vaya for touring.

>>1069798
When they're worn down enough that you can start to see through. It'll be paler/lighter color, might see some threads... But when that happens replace fast or you'll get a blowout.
Or if the sidewalls are starting to get worn/looking like they could rip.
>>1068429
Did you use the correct crank puller? There are two types with different size heads for different style BBs. Plus the little head thing can fall off (at least on the Park Tool ones) so if you did it with the wrong head or no head then it won't work. Use the right one. Though you may have stripped it out too much already.

Otherwise just take a sledgehammer or a chainsaw or something. Dynamite could do the trick too.

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Is this a good U-Lock?

>>1069947
No. Longer = more leverage = easier to break

How do I get my hoods to tighten up? I installed replacement hoods from my Shimano brifters, and no matter how much I pull or try to align the nubs the right hood always comes off at the top while riding.

>>1069970
like the rubber is coming off, or the whole hood/brifter itself is loose on the bars?

>>1069483
i've got a pair of basic wellgo platform pedals that i bought for like 30 bucks 5 years ago and they're still just as good as new.

>>1069853
that is one ugly fuckin bike, man

>>1069483
Anything metal
>inb4 muh grams

>>1069971

The rubber comes off. The brifter is tight and in good order, just the rubber needed replacing.

Are Chinese cabron frames dangerous? I'm looking to get a Chinarello frame but I don't want it to disintegrate while doing 70 km/h on a descent. Is there any proof that these fail more than "genuine" frames?

>>1069838
Get a gun and a very bright front light.

>>1070002
If you do get one get an original, not a "counterfeit" one.

>>1070007
What this anon means is get one that is an original design, not a copy. Preferably with some sort of brand name (Hong Fu, Deng Fu) attached to it and not mystery special off of eBay or Aliexpress.

Been thinking about getting a bike to ride through campus, but space is limited in my place. I never post here, so do people like mini velos or folding bikes more? I'm considering both.

Considering upgrading my stock Wheelset on my disc road bike to Chinese garbon wheels. Should I go for it? Seems most of the issues I read about are from rim brakes heating the brake surface to failure, but I shouldn't have that issue with disc brakes, right?

>>1070036
Well, a folded folding bike is as compact as you're going to get.

>>1070039
right

Is internal cable routing a meme that's more of a nuisance than its worth?

>>1070040
If they are reviewed by some magazine then yes, if not then let someone else die in your place.

>>1070002
If it's from a producer of Pinarello's frames then you will get a true Pinarello frame without the brand name, the warranty and all the quality control for a fraction of the price. I'd rather pay more (not all frames are as pricier as a Colnago or wat) for a safer frame and a lifetime warranty, but it's up to you.

Anyone ever had any experience with aliexpress chainrings? The el cheapo crankset I had on my beater bike lasted 5 years without any maintenance whatsoever, so I'm looking at either buying an identical one (<40eur ish) or getting two new chainrings from ali. Worth the wait or not?

Has anyone here actually bought a frame or bike from Aliexpress/alibaba/taobao?

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When you ride in the drops. Do you ride as left or right in pic related? I find when I ride as right to watch the road ahead, my neck starts hurting after a while. So I started riding pic left, keeping my head down but tilting my eyeballs upwards to scan the road ahead. However I wear prescription glasses and when I tilt my eyes upwards they go above the glasses and I just see vague blobs instead of actual traffic

wat do?

>>1070131
Just use the hoods, that's what they're there for. Save the drops for descending and headwinds.

So I'm like 3 weeks in to ditching my car for my bike, really loving it so far. I figure it's time for some regular maintenance and maybe wash the bike. What are some things I'd need to do? Lube the chain and so on, but what are some other things to look out for? I also need a helmet, but don't know anything about them. What should I look for?

>>1070131
wear contact lense

>>1070154
Unless you have a specific issue (noise from the bottom bracket, poor braking, wobbly wheel, etc), washing and re-lubing the drivetrain is all you need.
I also like to change out my bar tape and any cables that are starting to fray once a year, but the bar tape at least is just for aesthetic reasons.
I usually check my bikes at the start of summer as well to make sure that the headset, seat-tube and bottom bracket are all well-greased, and give my bike a deep clean where I remove the crankset and the cassette to clean the individual chainrings and cogs.

>>1070131
tfw half the cyclists in my area are older dudes who ride in the drops 100% of the time in all conditions, at 50 rpm and 20 km/h

I'm trying to replace my stock pedals with clipless pedals but I just can't get the damn thing off, even using a hammer to try and turn the wrench. The bike is brand new so it hasn't rusted or anything. Any suggestions?

>>1070187
are you turning the wrench the right way, since the pedals are reverse threaded from each other

>>1070190
Yeah I looked that up on two different websites and watched a video to make sure I didn't have it wrong. I guess I'll probably have to end up either taking it in to a bike shop to have them do it for me or buy a much longer pedal wrench. I'm just broke as fuck so it irks me.

>>1070187
Drop a little WD-40 on the thread and let it soak for a bit, then try again. You can also put a length of pipe over your wrench so you have better leverage.

>>1070202
That's a good idea, thanks.

>>1069828
that does not look particularly worn, to me

A friend gave me an old bike he does not use.

Problem is is that the gear shift will not switch, say from gear 1 to gear 2. It stays on gear 6 and i can not switch it. How would i go about fixing this?

>>1070089

just ebay a decent crankset for 40.

>>1070036

be on trend and get a minivelo.
bitches will love you

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>>1069493
I heard a lot of shit about the Saints.
I just bought some noname plastic pedals.
They are fucking heavy as shit for plastic but feel durable as fuck.
The pedals that broke on me were a pair if cheap wellgo, shimano clips and chink superlight trash.

>>1070187
Use something to fasten the crank arm parallel to the chain stay. I use a toe strap, but rope could work, use what you have. Now the opposing lever is the whole length of the chain stay, not just the crank arm. Increase the length of your wrench lever by adding a breaker bar. Now apply force.

>>1070322
saints are pretty great, they cured me from being a clipless nazi

I just got my hands on some shimano 11 speed bar end shifter.
when I try to shift them withou having them installed, I need to aplly considerable force.

is that allright ?

Trying to replace a Shimano SG chainring but it has these weird plastic bolts or something on it that I can't seem to remove, the inside where you'd expect to see the bolts requiring a special tool just have plastic caps and the outer facing bolts seem to be a kinda plastic, tried some hex keys on them but none took

What is this thing and how do I remove it

What do I need to invest when I want to buy a solid bike for riding in the city?

It shouldn't be total crap that breaks down all the time, but obviously also shouldn't be some freaky unneeded shit, since I am a complete noob and will only use it to get to the gym.

I'm 194cm tall and 110kg heavy, so need something to support my weight though. Is that possible without flattening the tires?

>>1070187
Cheap wrenches + a manly grip is a bad combination, I've had wrenches break in my hand and it's not nice.
Assuming you're trying to unscrew it the correct way around (left pedal has reversed thread) try
- penetrating spray, probably your best bet since there's a good chance you'll damage something otherwise
- slide a piece of metal pipe over the wrench and turn using the pipe so you have more leverage
- kick it with your foot lmao

How do i decide what proper tire pressure is? Do i just pump it up to the tires marked max pressure?

Also, how come mountain bike tires have lower pressure ratings than road tires? Are mtb tires really more fragile than road tires?

>>1070413
As a general rule tyres with more volume are pumped to lower pressures, and it varies a lot from fat tyre to MTB to road. Unless you're really heavy (fat) you shouldn't have to pump them to the maximum pressure.
It effects your comfort (more inflated = more road vibration), the grip on rough surfaces and the tyre's rolling resistance, usually more pressure = less rolling resistance, but in real life less pressure could be faster, handle better and be more comfortable on rough asphalt.

>>1070276
unhook the shift cable from the rear derailer entirely, see if the chain will shift cogs then - if it doesn't, then the problem is the setting of a limit screw on your derailer, if it does move the problem is your shift cable/shifter is stuck.

>>1070361
tension screw on the shifters is probably too tight

>>1070376
take a picture, if it's a really cheap crankset the rings may be riveted on and not removable.

>>1070377
You should expect to spend 4-600 if you buy a new bike in a bike shop, less if you can find something good in the used market. Your weight is no problem at all as long as the wheels on your bike are properly trued and tensioned.

>>1070413
A general rule of thumb for finding the right tire pressure for you is to put air in the tire until it's firm enough that when you put your body weight directly over it on the bike (by leaning on the bars/saddle) you see the sidewalls bulge out slightly - if the pressure is so high that the tire never flexes then the pneumatic tire can't work effectively, if it's low enough that bulges more than a bit while rolling then you'll be slowed down by extra rolling resistance - note that for MTBing when having as much grip as possible is desired, you might choose to run less tire pressure and sacrifice some rolling resistance, just enough pressure to make sure you don't get pinch flats.

>>1070417
>if it's a really cheap crankset the rings may be riveted on

shit, I think this might be the case.

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I ride a 90s rigid MTB, but this picture should be similar enough.
My feet come into contact with the pedals at about the middle of the sole and not forward where the toes begin.
It's probably because the frame is too small for me, but how much of a problem is this, am I subjecting myself to additional discomfort riding like that?
Should I get one of those seat posts with a kink in it so the seat is moved backwards by a few cm?

>>1070420
I've always ridden like that (it's one of the reasons I've never tried clipless) and it's never caused me any issues except toe overlap on the front wheel of some bikes. If I use my toes it just feels weird and I can't put down as much power (because your calves need to stop your foot flexing upwards and the closer the pedal is to your toes the more leverage it has).

That said there's no guarantee it won't cause you problems as the arch of the foot isn't designed to bear weight, but if you don't have any pain now I can't imagine it would be any trouble in the future.

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>>1070420
>>1070429
Prev anon is correct that you won't necessarily hurt yourself riding like that, but if you ride with your foot too far forward then you're not able to get all the available power from your legs with each pedal stroke - at the bottom of your pedal stroke your foot is like a lever pulled by the calf muscles, if the foot is too far forwards that lever arm gets shorter and less force is delivered to the pedal.

So I was involved in a crash with another cyclist last week. Got rammed in my shoulder from behind and fell. The front wheel was bent pretty severely, requiring me to manually bend it back as best I could so that I could roll the bike home. Rear wheel is pretty out of true. I inspected the bike when I got home and there doesn't seem to be any visible damage apart from the wheels being toast. Is the bike still safe to ride after I outfit it with new wheels? The bike has a steel frame and fork.

>>1070448
Really depends on how the crash impacted the frame, I would check it all over very closely for dents, dings, or cracks (look for bulges or areas that look stretch marks in the paint), and then I'd check the frame alignment - you don't need any fancy tools for this, just a ruler and some string (see the Sheldon Brown article on frame spacing for instructions). If it's not out of alignment and you can't find any signs of cracks, then put some wheels on it and go ride, if there's anything out of alignment (note that if you have a steel frame realignment may well be a possibility) you'll notice quickly that the bike doesn't ride quite right, and you'll hear creaking noises from the frame if there's a crack spreading.

>>1070420
>>1070429
You're not supposed to put your toes on the pedal, you're supposed to put the ball of the foot.

If I remove spacers from my stem to adjust handlebar height, will I have to tighten the brake and shifter cables?

>>1070487
No. The only thing that will affect is the distance between the shifter/brake lever and the housing stops, and the housing covers this entire distance. Therefore, braking and shifting performance will not be affected by removing spacers.

>>1070448
Make sure the brakes are still functioning properly. Make sure the derailleur hanger isn't bent and that your derailleurs are properly adjusted, because a bent hanger or misadjusted derailleur could throw your chain into your spokes (damaging your bike and hurting you) and/or could cause your drive train to skip which could make you crash.
Given that it's a steel frame/fork that appears undamaged, I would feel comfortable riding the bike after inspecting the brakes, derailleur hanger, and derailleurs.

>>1070413
Mtb tires are not more fragile, but having a wider tire necessiates having a lower pressure. That and the fact that low pressure = better grip/traction on dirt.
>>1070377
If buying new, a flat bar hybrid is a good option. Expect to spend around 600-700 USD. Consider Kona Dew Plus, GT Tachyon, Trek FX, Specialized Sirrus, Cannondale Bad Boy, or Giant Escape. These bikes come in various models/price points. More expensive versions are typically higher quality but the same other than that.
Otherwise you can buy used. A 90s rigid mountain bike on Craigslist is a good option and will have no problem supporting your weight. However, when buying used, you should expect to have to replace some parts and make some adjustments (or pay the local bike shop to do that for you), and if buying a mountain bike with knobbies (mountain bike tires) you'll want to swap the tires for semislicks.

>>1070276
Look up rear derailleur adjustment articles on Sheldon Brown's website and Park Tool's repair blog. Your issue could be:
>derailleur is in need of adjustment (tension adjustment and/or limit screw adjustment and/or B screw adjustment)
>derailleur is damaged/broken
>shifter is damaged/broken
>shift cable/housing is damaged/broken
>a combination of those things

>>1070187
Long wrench + leverage. Stand on the side of the bike that the pedal is on, put one arm over the top tube to grap the other crankarm. Use the pedal wrench at an angle to make use of mechanical advantage (pedal wrench should be not directly aligned with the crank arm but not way away from it, like 30-40 degrees from the crank arm in the direction such that you will be moving the wrench towards the crankarm; I'm just throwing 30-40 out there, not saying you should go exactly for that.. but a rough idea)

>>1070508
>a wider tire necessiates having a lower pressure
Why?

>That and the fact that low pressure = better grip/traction on dirt.
But a lower optimum pressure does not explain why the maximum rated pressure is lower.

>>1070413
>Do i just pump it up to the tires marked max pressure?
No. The pressure on the sidewall is a maximum, not a suggested.

>>1070519
Force = pressure x area. Bikes weigh approximately the same (don't go autistic on me here), so the force on the ground is about the same. You want a larger contact patch with a mountain bike tire (more traction), so therefor, lower pressure.

>But a lower optimum pressure does not explain why the maximum rated pressure is lower.

Again, Force = pressure x area. So given a constant pressure and a wider tire (more area), you are generating more outward force. So radial tension and hoop stresses in the sidewall would be far higher on a wide tire inflated to the same pressure as a skinny tire.

Is there a way to make old centerpull brakes stronger? I have a pair of Dia Compe calipers on my OTS. I already disassembled them and greased the bushings, which helped. Also I put V-brake pads on them and tuned them very close to the rims.

But they still squizz so weakly compared to modern sidepulls. Should I just replace them?

>>1070519
>But a lower optimum pressure does not explain why the maximum rated pressure is lower.
Cause if it's a wide tire, it will go boom at a lower pressure.

Think about it this way: Take a road bike with 21mm slicks. Take a fat bike with 5" knobbies. Fill both of them to 10psi. Then push on the tires with your hand. The 21mm slicks will feel squishy as fuck. The 5" knobbies will feel rock hard.
I don't know all the physics behind it, but due to the above I'm assuming that the same pressure in a wider tire puts more force on the tire, or something like that.

What's a decent multitool to put in my saddlebag and for general usage? Should I even bother putting one in there? Currently I just have a pump, puncutre repair kit, tyre levers, spare tube. I was looking at the topeak 19, but don't know if anyone has any other ideas/input?

>>1070659
Yes, you should definitely carry one. Crank Bros M17 or M19. Be aware that the chain breaker does not work on all chains; if you have a thick chain (common on old bikes and single speeds), you'll want to carry a separate chain breaker. If you have a standard modern 8/9/10/11/12 speed drive train (or a modern 8 speed chain on older/lower speed components) then the built in chain breaker will work fine.

How do I stop being so lazy about cleaning my bike? :(

>>1070673
Tell your boyfriend that he has permission to fuck you until you bleed every time you go more than a week without cleaning it.

Oh wait, you'd probably enjoy that.

>>1070659
Get one that can remove all of the hardware on your bike, minus stuff like the BB and cassette.
Getting one with a chainbreaker is a decent idea but they are a bit bulkier/more expensive.
Just getting a small one with a good selection of allen keys and screwdriver isn't a bad idea though.

I put new bearings in my hub last week. Rode 200 miles on them. When I take the wheel off and spin it in my hands there is occasionally a tight spot. Did I fuck up somewhere along the way? Tempted to take them out and retry but I don't want to make it worse.

>>1070713
I should add that they are sealed cartridge bearings.

>>1070671
I've always preferred the Crank Bros M10 + a Park Tool CT-5 chain breaker.

I run a 97 Gary fisher rigid on 27.5's. I've never ridden a hardtail or fs bike I liked; I hate that my pedaling effort is absorbed by the cycling suspension. They've all been cheap bikes though. I'm wondering if a decent fork would add to my ride.
I like to ride on my local single track gravel/dirt that cuts through rutted woodland/ mildy muddy swampy areas with lots of quick rolling hills and quick turns roots, ducking around trees and vines etc. I like to go fast.

Will adding a fork to my bike add to my biking experience or should I just run what I got. I don't feel like my bike is holding me back but I never see any other rigids on my trails.

>>1070736
I don't really do any drops. I'm in my thirties with a bad back and knee so I'm probably not going to start.

Any suggestions on a fork?

>>1070736
Decent suspension with good damping and setup correctly can really minimise the energy lost in pedalling.

An air fork would be best as it's easy to adjust the pressure to your weight and is more accurate than switching out springs, plus it'll be lighter so it won't feel as bad coming from a light rigid fork. In terms of other features pretty much every fork has rebound adjustment but you'll want to look for compression adjustment too and lockout would be a nice bonus (with a handle bar remote would be best).

Other things to look out for are compatibility things, a straight steerer that's long enough for your frame, designed for 27.5 obviously, the same axle interface, and lastly the brake mount (so either V posts or if you're running discs then you may need to get a different adapter to what's on your current fork).

>>1070731
>Park Tool CT-5
Yeah this is what I carried (in addition to my Crank Bros M17) back when I had a thicker chain on my OTS. I've used the M17's chain breaker multiple times on thinner chains (standard 8/9/10/11) and it works great.
Now that I run 8-speed chains on my OTS (btw, 8-speed chains work fine on 5/6/7 speed drivetrains) I just carry an M19 with built in chain breaker, don't bother with the CT-5 anymore given that I don't run thick chains anymore.

>>1070671
>>1070745
I've never had an issue using the breaker on either on my 19s (old version and new version) on single speed chains. There's more than enough clearance to the thicker sideplates.

>>1070749
Interesting. I got an OTS on Craigslist, and my M17 or M19 (don't remember which tool I was using at the time, but the chain breaker is identical on both so it's irrelevant) chain breaker did not work on that chain because the chain was too thick. But I long ago switched to SRAM 870 chains for that bike (while retaining a 2x5 drivetrain).

>>1070750
>on that chain
*on the chain that was on the bike when I bought it

>>1070742
So to be clear I want a 27.5 fork even though it presently has it's original 26" fork?

Stupid question, what is a steerer?

Retard beginner here, why am I unable to filter through traffic?
All the other cyclists manage to slide through and there's me clipping the mirror or the kerb and falling like a fool

I got a mountain bike. It already has a rack and is my main commuter. I haven't really had time to hit the trails, and it's gonna get hot soon so I won't be in the mood to for a while anyway. I can't afford a new bike at the moment, and I only ever use it in the city and for errands so how retarded would it be to get me some hybrid style street tires for my mtb?

>>1070795
Because they are confident in their abilities and/or reckless.
>>1070790
The steerer is the upper part of the fork which is not visible when the bicycle is assembled due to being hidden by the headtube, stem, and headset spacers.
If you're running 650b (27.5) I don't see any reason not to go with a 650b fork, even if you could make a 26" fork work.

>>1070796
Rigid mountain bikes (mountain bikes with no suspension) make great commuters if equipped with semislicks (or as you put it, "hybrid style street tires"). They won't perform that well on mountain bike trails though, they'll just be good on pavement and gravel.

>>1070790
Rigid forks tend to have quite a bit of vertical clearance, however suspension forks have less arch and crown clearance as they generally want to squeeze as much travel into as short a fork as they can. Whilst a 27.5" wheel may fit in some 26" suspension forks (usually those rated to take larger tyres and if you use a smaller 27.5" one) there's no guarantee.

The steerer is the tube that goes up through the head tube of the frame and the stem clamps around. Just measure the one on your current fork (no need to remove it, just use a tape measure and go from the bottom of the lower headset cup to the top of your stem) and get one that's at least that long. Also if you have some spacers under your stem you can lower the stem and use a slightly shorter steerer.

>>1070796
Tyres are cheap, might as well go for something with some lower profile tread for some extra grip.

>>1070796
Not retarded at all, just try to spend more than $15 each unless you want horrible rubber.

I just bought this frame from amazon in roma red 62 cm (im 6ft2) for 178 dollars CAD, was it a good deal?

>>1070846
I think it would help if you could look at the frame
https://www.amazon.ca/State-Bicycle-Black-Aluminum-Carbon/dp/B00HAVRIP2/ref=sr_1_5?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1493049948&sr=1-5&th=1&psc=1

I know this is something stupid and petty to obsess about but, how do I go about fixing paint damage? nail polish? anybody ever have to do it before? how'd it come out?

>>1070800
>>1070812
>>1070838

Thanks guys. How are goodyear tires? Or any recommendations?

>>1069947
have fun trying to carry that around.
for security, it's heavy and kinda expensive, but go with one of these two, and make sure that you get one of their good locks. might have to look elsewhere for a tougher lock for the pewag chain
http://www.almax-security-chains.co.uk/
http://www.westechrigging.com/chain-pewag-square-security-chain.html

Just got my first flat, wasn't looking where I was going and hit my front tire right on a curb.
The inner tube instantly blew out. The tyre and wheelset look okay, but how can I be sure they are still okay?

>>1070883
if you are using carbon wheels, it's harder to tell.
if alloy or steel, take the tire off, and look at/ feel along the wheel and tire for damage. next, with your wheel mounted in the bike or a truing stand, elevate it so it spins freely. line up a gauge, or use a straight edge, like the edge of a table or something for reference. spin the wheel and see if there is any point where the rim either contacts the table edge, or is further from the edge than the rest of the wheel. this is vertical truing, and will tell you if you have dented the rim inward due to the impact. if you have, it is possible to make a tool that pushes against the rim and hub and straightens out the bend, but this doesn't work for severe damage. if you want to do this repair yourself, i'd recommend a truing stand, and you will need to remove several spokes, so be prepared to put in some work. bike shops generally will not repair a wheel that is damaged in this way and can't be fixed by adjusting the tension of the spokes.

here is a good video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oGWgSKAjw0

if there was some other type of damage, like a major dent or deformity, or crack, you should be able to find it on inspection, and if you have those problems, you need to replace the rim or the wheel

Well my bikes out of commission. Front wheel started rubbing quite badly after taking it off. It wasn't spinning perfectly straight which was part of it but the disc was also rubbing on the calipers. After taking the wheel off again I couldn't even fit it back in between the calipers and had to take them out completely to ride it him on the rear brake alone. The problem is the disc was then so far over to the left it was rubbing on the caliper housing itself.

I'm a bit overwhelmed. I know I'll need to refill the fluid but how the hell do I go about adjusting the disc spacing? Also can I 'true' the wheel myself or will I need to take it in?

>>1070848
>ships in 1-2 months
>>1070904
Watch a wheel truing video on YouTube and decide yourself if you can do it.

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>>1070910
I bought the very last frame they had in their amazon warehouse, i'll get it friday


Something really weird was going on with the price, it was 210 dollars a week ago and it kept going down 5-10 dollars a day everyday i checked so I pulled the trigger in fear of somebody being as autistic as me

>>1070846
>another single speed retard
Just hand yourself it'll be quicker and less messy

>>1070904
I'm guessing you have a quick release wheel. Chances are the axle wasn't fully seated in the dropouts when the caliper was first aligned or you didn't fully seat it when putting the wheel back on.

I don't know why you took the caliper off completely instead of just realigning it, it's not particularly hard to do. You won't need to mess with fluid unless you removed the hose from the caliper for some reason, which would be a really dumb thing to do.

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Cleaning bike notice bolt seems to be missing
>is this were my cranking noise is coming from?

What's this bolt called, can I buy one off amazon?

>>1070943
Upon closer examination it's a two part nut kind of thing

>>1070943
Stronglight makes good ones for cheap.

>>1070943
That's just a little notch that prevents the chain from getting wedged behind the crank arm, should you drop your chain. There's nothing missing from it.

>>1070943
They're called chainring bolts

>>1070970
not the pin above the screwdriver, the nut thing that's cocked sideways and rattling around.

>>1070928
I meant pads a lot of the time I said caliper desu. I might just use this as a prompt to strip the whole thing and rebuild it, could probably do with it. I'm not exactly competent, clearly, but I'll figure it out.

It's not so urgent since I've got a new bike ordered anyway.

>>1070992
A rebuild isn't particularly easy and there's a chance you could fuck it up, no point doing it when it's probably not necessary. Like I said try aligning the caliper, if there's not enough room between the pads for the disc to fit then you probably pulled the brake lever whilst the disc was out. Remove the bleed screw from the lever and push the pistons back in with a tyre lever.

>>1070994
I'll try that tomorrow then, cheers.

There's still apart of me that wants to take everything apart and build from scratch though, learning experience you know.

>>1070995
Trust me, you'll regret it once you and the bike are covered in oil, your pads are fucked, and you've got to pick that bolt up off the floor after dropping it for the 20th time. Learn it when you need to, and if you never need to then that's less useful information to hold in your noggin.

>>1070996
RELEASE THE SCHMOO

>>1070997
On a related note I was checking the oil level in my fork earlier today, accidentally pushed the compression cartridge down and squirted oil all over my face. Mostly went in my eye but don't think I'll go blind, it also dripped onto the brake so now I probably need new pads.

>>1070996
My noggin's already wiping itself at this point, feel dumber by the day.

What would you suggest for someone who wants a road bike for commuting on a somewhat rough route (a few bumps nothing crazy) not a specific bike, just features I need and things to look out for

>>1071005
Something that can fit decent mudguards and wider tires

>>1070997
FOCUS YOU FUCK

Where can I find a 60+ tooth chainring? Biggest on QBP is 55. Looking for something in the 60-65 range.
>inb4 you'll spin out way before that
No, I wanna take this thing 100+ km/h down steep mountain roads.
>inb4 you'll die
At least I'll die having fun.

I'd be interested in finding a big chainring regardless of BCD.

>>1071005
Steel
Preferably 1980s Japanese steel

>>1070904
As I understand it, you are running hydraulic discs and your front brake pads are so close together that the brake rotor won't fit between them? This happens with hydraulic disc systems if you pull the brake lever when the wheel is off, it brings the pistons (and therefore the pads) together too close for the rotor to fit back through. To resolve it, take a thin flat object and (careful not to damage the pads) wedge it between the pads and rock it back and forth, pushing/prying them apart.

Brake rotor rubbing and wheel being out of true are completely separate issues from each other; out of true wheel has no affect on brake rotor. Truing a wheel is pretty easy if you have the proper spoke wrench (unless the wheel is so badly out of true and/or has a damaged/broken spoke that it needs a spoke replacement, or is shot entirely). Truing a rotor is tricky and very easy to fuck up and make it worse (putting an S bend in it, which is pretty much impossible to take out). It sounds like you might just want to get a new brake rotor (and while you're at it, consider if you need new pads; they say you're supposed to replace pads and rotor at the same time, I don't buy into that if the pads are still good, but it's worth checking to make sure the pads are still good).

Unless of course you have quick release and are a fucking dumbass and had your wheel not all the way in the dropouts and/or had the QR loose, in which case it was wobbling making the wheel and rotor seem out of true when they actually weren't.

>>1070883
Inspect tire closely, make sure it doesn't have a thin spot or a rip (which may be hard to tell without looking very closely).
As for the wheels... carbon bicycle components have a tendancy to spontaneously explode, so good luck!
>>1069997
They should have a little square thing on the inside of the rubber hood, and a little square thing on the lever that the square thing on the hood fits over. Make sure this square thing is all the way around the other square thing on all four sides. At least some brifters/hoods are like this, idk if all are.

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>>1070002
All carbon frames are dangerous :^)

>>1071056
>Truing a rotor is tricky and very easy to fuck up and make it worse
It's actually not. It's easy to get rid of a slight wobble just using an adjustable spanner to bend the disc and if you're not a complete retard you won't bend it too much.

>>1071053
If you're looking to build a bike solely for bombing hills perhaps consider using a BMX rear hub with a 9t driver. 55:9 is slightly higher than even 65:11, although even that is only gonna be 95km/h at 120rpm so I hope you're good at spinning.

The one downside is you only have one cog at the back, you could always use a double or triple up front with a sprung tensioner in the rear (in which case I'd suggest something like the Alfine CT-S500 with two pulleys to take up a lot of slack).

>>1071065
Thanks for the suggestion but I want to put it on one of my existing bikes. Preferably my Madone, but if I can only find one with a BCD compatible with one of my other bikes then I'd put it on one of those. I suppose I could build a wheel for my Madone on a BMX hub... and mash up the canyon/pass in 39/9... (jk)

>>1071065
>>1071066
And if >65:11 is still only 95 and 120 then I'd like to go even higher if it exists. Like 70 or something. Not to run it on my Madone all the time, just to put on when I'm going for max speed. But I assume a ring that big doesn't exist without going custom.

>>1071065
>although even that is only gonna be 95km/h at 120rpm
How the fuck do TDF guys go so fast on the descents?
https://mpora.com/road-cycling/tour-de-france-top-speed-riders-hit-huge-130kph-81mph-stage-nine-le-tour
I highly doubt even they can spin fast. Are the hills in TDF really that steep that they can hit that speed from just spinning out then tucking and letting gravity do the rest?

>>1071068
Found one source but it ain't cheap: http://www.greenspeed.com.au/gsparts.html

I wouldn't be surprised if it would actually be cheaper to get one custom made.

>>1071070
Yes they tuck, it says so in that article.

>>1071071
Nice, thanks! I just found one on eBay, available up to 80t, a bit more affordable. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Recumbent-Bicycle-Recumbent-Chainring-60-65-70-75-Teeth-/262543015716
Not gonna buy it right now cause no money, but fuck it, I think I'm gonna buy the 75 or 80 when I have some spare cash. I'll put it on my Madone for a bit to hit 100 in the canyons then I'll switch it over to my hybrid that I'm going to turn into a troll bike.

>>1071073
Fuck, wrong link. www.ebay.com/itm/Sprocket-for-recumbent-bicycle-chainring-for-recumbent-60-65-70-75-80-teeth-new-/262817744218?
There's the 80t listing

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>>1071075
>mfw 130rpm in 80/11 on 700x23c will take me to 119km/h

>>1071053
>>1071065
>>1071066
>>1071073
>>1071087

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=65400

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=65401

Gimmie your thoughts on:

Trek Remedy 5
Stumpjumper Comp 6fattie
Cannondale Trigger 3

New to mountain biking and want something to hurl around all kinds of trails in the northwest.

>>1071119
Well the Trigger is the best bike but it is like 8 years newer than the Remedy 5 and costs a shit load more than the Stumpjumper. I think you need to figure out what your budget is first, and whether you want to buy new or used.

are there any okay road frames out there for 200€.

is there anything I could look out for when it pops up used ?

>>1071119
if you're new buy something cheaper or used, just incase you hate it,
something like a YT capra AL comp, good enough for everything and doesn't really break the bank compared to those you've listed.

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I'm thinking of ordering a custom bike. Did I do anything retarded with the geo? Alu frame, carbon fork that i'll use for mess work, maybe some road riding but almost only in towns. Only fixed gear with clearance for studs in front and small cx knobby in the back. Will it handle like shit? I want it to be snappy but not super agressive.

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Need to get new wheels for the ones I totaled. I'm trying to figure out whether I need a 130mm or 135mm rear wheel. I measured the rear wheel and got 130mm, but I'm sure if I'm measuring correctly. Does this look right based on the picture?

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>>1071175
I measured the rear dropout and got 132mm, which was odd.

>>1071175
>>1071176
Yes you're measuring correctly. Most frames won't be exactly 130mm as it makes it harder to insert the wheel and tightening the skewer will take up the extra anyway.

It suppose it could also be a 135mm frame that was squeezed down to fit a 130mm wheel but sprung back open a bit. It depend on the material as to how much it would spring back but I have no experience with this. You could also use a 135mm hub if you don't mind having to spread the dropouts every time you put the wheel in.

>>1071181
Surly have 132mm spaced dropouts.

>>1071181
Would it be best to buy a 130mm wheel to match the one I already have? This is a Jamis Coda Sport that I bought new in 2013. I always thought that the dropout would be 135mm since it was a hybrid bike with a 7 speed cassette. Didn't get a chance to measure until today.

>>1071176
Some frame makers aim for 132.5 intentionally to make the frame compatible with both hub standards. A millimetre and a half per side is no deflection to speak of on a >430 mm stay.
>>1071184
I'd buy a 135 mm wheel with a disc hub that you can carry over to your next bike if you're going to build or get one built. Alternatively, the cheapest machine built shit you can possibly find and throw away when you upgrade.

>>1071176
132.5mm is a thing

I need to tighten the bolts on my stem. Don't know which one it is but it's a Bontrager and it says sports. What torque should it be tightened to?

>>1071221
The side bolts should be OK up to 5 Nm. Don't want to torque the top, but tighten it until the fork is stable (and still turning smoothly).

What do you all think of Bike Direct bikes?

I've been thinking about getting one from there and upgrading parts as I can afford it.

It'd be mainly for Arizona trail riding, overlanding and camping.

>>1071175
>>1071176
Yeah that looks right, over locknut is what you need. There is a chance you have 132.5 spacing yet a 130mm hub and made it work. I think (don't quote me on this) you can use thin washers as spacers between your locknuts and cones to bring what comes stock as a 130mm hub up to 132 (getting it 132.5 might be tough depending on washer widths available) or 135 for wider dropout spacings.

>>1071167
Old ten speed on whatever the euro equivilent of Craigslist is
>>1071119
All 3 companies make great high quality bikes. I'm not familiar with Cannondale's adjustable rear suspension, this is the first I've heard of it, can't comment on if it's any good. The Specialized has midfat (3") tires which you may or may not want, you can switch to narrower tires of course but possibly not with the stock rims, so you could factor that in.
If possible, test ride all three and see what you like best, but you won't be going wrong with any of them.
If buying used, check pinkbike.com/buysell

Currently got 700 x 38c tyres on a cheap hybrid I purchased from a neighbour's yard sale. I was told to replace the tyres. I was recommended Schwalbe.

I tend to just get an exact replacement but should I consider 700 x 35c? And are there any other brands worth looking at?

>>1071364
Schwalbe are good, so are a lot of other brands.
Standard Marathons are a good choice but at the same time a pair will probably cost close to what you paid for the bike.

>>1071365
Paid £60 for the bike, and yeah.. looking at close to £40 for a pair of Schwalbes, closer to £50 if I want a folding pair. That's life. I'm not the type of person that is going to buy a whole new bike just because spares are expensive.

Seems like most tyres have wires in them.

Asked in the wrong thread before, so

I feel like that >>1071128 (You)
tire rolls nicely (rode over 2000 miles with it) but I don't think the rear feels as comfortable as it should be. If I hit a bump I can feel the shit eating the metal, as if it's not enough. Yes, tube is always inflated accordingly.

What is a good, sturdy as fuck, commuting/touring tire within the 1.50 range?

can I use a mechanical group on a Di2 frame without stops ?

after changing my crank I keep dropping my chain.

however I don't really know if it has anything to do with my crank.

the chain only drops on up shift.
and I noticed that the chain sometimes shifts normaly and sometimes slaps from side to side.
I notice this on the upper part of the chain ,so above the deraileur.

I even use a clutch deraileur.

what going on ?

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Help me out guys. I have the Specialied Power Comp saddle. I can't get it right. Constantly falling off the saddle, sliding forwards. I have elbow and hand pains and even my knee is starting to bug me. So the whole bike might even be the problem rofl. But anyway, does anyone have the Power Comp?

>>1071817
I have one. It's perfect combined with a zero setback seatpost.